Database Users

8525 shuts itself off!

I have a 8525 that is 14 months old and has been working wonderfully all this time. A few days ago it started to shut itself off at no repeatable times. I pull it out and it is off! I try to load something and it shuts down instead. Today I did a total wipe and reinstalled from a back up. The same problem occurred. I wiped it again and installed a 2 month old backup and the same thing occurred. I have changed the battery. The memory is fine. The only thing that I have not tried is a wipe and a reinstall from scratch, but obviously would prefer not to do that.
WM 6.1 is running

Check to see if your battery connection isn't lose. If the power keeps shutting off for no reason in your pocket it could be that its not making proper connection. If you bought another battery that wasn't a HTC original then it may not be Quite the right size. I had this problem with an extended battery I bought. It was about 1/2mm less width than an original but that was enough to be a problem. A piece of paper between the battery and the casing fixed this.
Cheers...

not the problem
Thanks, but the battery is not the problem as the spare battery is one that I have been using for 6 months and the other one that I tried is the factory battery. Unfortunately, it is more serious than this.

I'm having similar problems with my Hermes...and I bought it ~14months ago too, refurbished, it's a Voda v1605, uk ebay seller.
Actually mine stays powered most of the time and it's not a SW problem: I'm trying various ROMs and I'm 100% sure the problem is HW-based.
Well it's much I have this prob and don't have any warranty, so I opened it and tried to "manually" solve this matter: I put a page between my qwerty and the motherboard, and this, together with some paper under the battery, solved the problem at most.
Now it switches off less frequently, but still not enough to safely bring it in my pocket and always find it switched on after taking it off
I tried to get it repaired but they told me they'd change the motherboard for +/- the price of a "as-new" 2nd hand one
I hope you solve, but if you don't....then I think we have to sell it "as-damaged" (or return it in warranty if you have)...I'm actually looking for a Diamond or TyTn II (see hard choice... thread ) and leave this dear mate

what i was afraid of
This is what I was afraid of. No warranty here so have been thinking of moving to the Tilt, but I am leaving town in a day and have no time to get and set it up.

Its also possible if you dropped your Hermes you may have cracked or bent the battery connectors.... May need to be fixed with soldering iron but is a pain if you can't solder really tiny joints...
Cheers...

ultramag69 said:
Its also possible if you dropped your Hermes you may have cracked or bent the battery connectors.... May need to be fixed with soldering iron but is a pain if you can't solder really tiny joints...
Cheers...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm ready to go, I want my Hermes back
Can you point me to some photos to understand where to solder the connectors better?
I mean, I've already seen them (so many times hehe), I also have that cool yellow gauge that could be useful to understand if they don't "touch" correctly, but I'm not sure I understood where are the soldering points
A photo with some arrow could be useful (or something similar lol).
Many thanks for your help mate!

The best idea would be to go Here - http://michael-channon.spaces.live.com/
Mikes site offers the best tutorials for the Hermes, and, if you need to you can pm him directly.
Cheers...

ultramag69 said:
The best idea would be to go Here - http://michael-channon.spaces.live.com/
Mikes site offers the best tutorials for the Hermes, and, if you need to you can pm him directly.
Cheers...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What a lovable guy! So available, so kind, cool!
Guys, just to let you all be near me...with my hearth that cries at every Hermes black screen...I've opened it again, did some tweaks - again - and did a complete photo-report and a short video too!
See here
http://s403.photobucket.com/albums/pp120/ErMejoo/My%20v1605%20opened/?albumview=slideshow and for the video choose "Main" on the top corner.
I'm looking forward to the next Mike answer (just sent him the link too) to see if he thinks detaching and soldering again the battery connectors can be the right next choice.
If someone has some ideas or if I have a great one (don't think so but the hope never fades away) or simply for kind words, let's write here.
Thanks to everyone giving support, I really appreciate.

ErMeglio said:
What a lovable guy! So available, so kind, cool!
Guys, just to let you all be near me...with my hearth that cries at every Hermes black screen...I've opened it again, did some tweaks - again - and did a complete photo-report and a short video too!
See here
http://s403.photobucket.com/albums/pp120/ErMejoo/My%20v1605%20opened/?albumview=slideshow and for the video choose "Main" on the top corner.
I'm looking forward to the next Mike answer (just sent him the link too) to see if he thinks detaching and soldering again the battery connectors can be the right next choice.
If someone has some ideas or if I have a great one (don't think so but the hope never fades away) or simply for kind words, let's write here.
Thanks to everyone giving support, I really appreciate.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry was feeling a bit sick yesterday and didn't reply.
Having looked at the pics an video, I am begining to think one of two things:
1. There may be a crack in one of the battery connector soldered joints
Or
2. This has nothing to do with the battery connector and may have more to do with the general condition of the phone.
Number one could probably only be checked by re-soldering the contacts.
Number two is quite unspecific. You see when I look at the pics and see the gaps in the casing, and some damage to internal plastic, I get the feeling that the circuit boards etc are probably not be firmly held in place. In other words there is likely quite a bit of movement internally and between the two halves of the phone.
This in itself could cause the battery to move around. It could also cause the rigid flex cables to move at their connectors.
I think you need to check each and every connector is well inserted AND try to firm up all the looseness and movement internally and in the casing . I'm not sure that wlll be an easy job given some plastic parts appear broken.
I think it's going to be difficult to give further advice (not being able to see and feel the device directly.)
However, I'll have a look at my Hermes this weekend, and try to establish a link between pressing certain areas of the keyboard and a total shutdown.
Cheers
Mike

Thanks Mike, don't have to apologize, you're offering free help
Anyway, I have the WORST news for you....my Hermes has gone, completely.
After the mail I sent you the other day, don't know why really, perhaps for the spray, I don't know, it didn't switch on again.
When I connect the battery charger it comes red, and if I remember what I read somewhere here red means it doesn't feel the battery at all.
I tried to leave it outdoor these 2 days to see if magically that spray which left a film everywhere would have evaporated but this didn't help.
I'm having a very "rude" welder as I said, it has a cutting tip just to make you understand, anyway I've just toggled the battery conn with it (I had nothing to loose) and I have the 2 centered one which took away a dark "film", and on the motherboard I have the 2 silver connectors on each side, which touch 2-by-2, and the 2 centered one which are completely black...don't know if I damaged something that way...
I think tomorrow I could try to weld 4 wires (what are the centered one for?) and see what happens...what do you think?
I'd like to try everything to even explore the 0,01% possibilities to see it working again...
[EDIT 1]
Just updated my album on photobucket with the new photos...

After the mail I sent you the other day, don't know why really, perhaps for the spray, I don't know, it didn't switch on again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
!! What spray? Where did it come from?
When I connect the battery charger it comes red, and if I remember what I read somewhere here red means it doesn't feel the battery at all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes it means the battery is not charging - which suggests the connector is now disconnected even if it wasn't before.
I'm having a very "rude" welder as I said,.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now!, I think something has happened to the translation here!! Does this welder (let's call him Fred) swear at you and call you rude names? And when you say you have had him!!!
Sorry - I have a weird sense of humour.
Anyway. To be honest, given the general condition of the phone and it's various problems - I think you should start looking for a new phone - you will never be able to rely on the one you have there.
You could also consider making a small amount of money ny selling off parts from the one you have. Folk here are always looking for difficult to find parts.
Sorry to be defeatist about the phone, but I think you realise that it's condition is getting worse not better. Assuming money is no problem then it's time to get yourself a present
Mike

mikechannon said:
!! What spray? Where did it come from?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Will do a photo in some minutes and upload to photobucket, think you understood I love doing photos with the daddy's (almost) new HD cam
mikechannon said:
Now!, I think something has happened to the translation here!! Does this welder (let's call him Fred) swear at you and call you rude names? And when you say you have had him!!!
Sorry - I have a weird sense of humour.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hahahahahahaha ops!! I Said I am an inventive Italian, didn't I?
I've just read some -better?- definition of the "noun" on dictionary.com (All rights reserved bla bla bla) and found:
–verb (used with object)
1.to unite or fuse (as pieces of metal) by hammering, compressing, or the like, esp. after rendering soft or pasty by heat, and sometimes with the addition of fusible material like or unlike the pieces to be united.
2.to bring into complete union, harmony, agreement, etc. –verb (used without object)
3.to undergo welding; be capable of being welded: a metal that welds easily.
–noun
4.a welded junction or joint.
5.the act of welding or the state of being welded.
And also:
Weld"er\, n. One(A PERSON??) who welds, or unites pieces of iron, etc., by welding.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mmh I'm quite confused, don't think I understood, wtf does welder mean lol?!
There's also the verb part which seemed correct, isn't it?
Anyway, that's the google translation, knew it was stupid but didn't think that much
mikechannon said:
Sorry to be defeatist about the phone, but I think you realise that it's condition is getting worse not better. Assuming money is no problem then it's time to get yourself a present
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well I will, as soon as I can...currently I can't, that's why yesterday my father wanted to help buying 50% (200€) of a Nokia N95 8gb to let me use it and wait better prices for the HTCs out there...and take the Nokia for himself when I decide (what a profiteer haha!!)...BUT of course the shop finished them ([OT]there's a long story for N95s here, everyone wants it but noone gets! In short, my sister got a new bricked one (DOA) and is waiting for a replacement for 2 months; my dad bought one on ebay and got cheated for 270€...now I damage my phone and want to buy at the shop with him and it ends two days after we had seen it there...if this was a film I'd call it "Nokia N95-8gb: the nightmare"! [/OT])!
Thanks for your help anyway, much appreciated!

ErMeglio said:
Will do a photo in some minutes and upload to photobucket, think you understood I love doing photos with the daddy's (almost) new HD cam
Hahahahahahaha ops!! I Said I am an inventive Italian, didn't I?
I've just read some -better?- definition of the "noun" on dictionary.com (All rights reserved bla bla bla) and found:
Mmh I'm quite confused, don't think I understood, wtf does welder mean lol?!
There's also the verb part which seemed correct, isn't it?
Anyway, that's the google translation, knew it was stupid but didn't think that much
Well I will, as soon as I can...currently I can't, that's why yesterday my father wanted to help buying 50% (200€) of a Nokia N95 8gb to let me use it and wait better prices for the HTCs out there...and take the Nokia for himself when I decide (what a profiteer haha!!)...BUT of course the shop finished them ([OT]there's a long story for N95s here, everyone wants it but noone gets! In short, my sister got a new bricked one (DOA) and is waiting for a replacement for 2 months; my dad bought one on ebay and got cheated for 270€...now I damage my phone and want to buy at the shop with him and it ends two days after we had seen it there...if this was a film I'd call it "Nokia N95-8gb: the nightmare"! [/OT])!
Thanks for your help anyway, much appreciated!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well you have nothing more to lose by continuing to try things out on the Hermes.
A couple of points regarding your pictures. You know you can upload the pictures to photobucket and then using the direct link that photbucket gives you below the picture you can then post the picture on XDA-Dev. You use the little "insert image" icon when writing a post. As shown here:
http://s403.photobucket.com/albums/pp120/ErMejoo/My v1605 opened/
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
I'm not sure what that black film on the central connectors is. Perhaps it's melted plastic from the connector housing. In any case you should be able to melt it off. (Be careful though because excess heat may be transferred into the board and start loosening other connections. The Hermes has a multilayered m/board and some connections are "sandwiched" between the layers).
I see the picture of the spray - I assume it is a metal polish? It may or may not conduct electricity - if it does that could cause serious problems even after it's cleaned off.
Mike
PS
By the way a welder can be a person who welds or a machine that welds. But you said that it was a rude welder. A machine cannot be rude, so a "rude welder" as you stated, must be a person!!
NB Welding is a term used for joining large pieces of metal. When talking about circuit boards we normally say soldering not welding.
My Italian lessons (thanks to Chiara from Tomtom) are coming along nicely:
Alla fine della strada, girate a sinistra.
(But I don't care I could listen to Chiara's voice all day long)

mikechannon said:
I'm not sure what that black film on the central connectors is. Perhaps it's melted plastic from the connector housing. In any case you should be able to melt it off. (Be careful though because excess heat may be transferred into the board and start loosening other connections. The Hermes has a multilayered m/board and some connections are "sandwiched" between the layers).
I see the picture of the spray - I assume it is a metal polish? It may or may not conduct electricity - if it does that could cause serious problems even after it's cleaned off.
Mike
PS
By the way a welder can be a person who welds or a machine that welds. But you said that it was a rude welder. A machine cannot be rude, so a "rude welder" as you stated, must be a person!!
NB Welding is a term used for joining large pieces of metal. When talking about circuit boards we normally say soldering not welding.
My Italian lessons (thanks to Chiara from Tomtom) are coming along nicely:
Alla fine della strada, girate a sinistra.
(But I don't care I could listen to Chiara's voice all day long)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't try to add all them here because, you know, photobucket slideshow is so sexy
Thanks for the lesson I needed, much appreciated
I just realized the "rude" adjective refers to a person, I used it because in Italian saying something/someone is "rude" or "rudimentale" means it/he is simple, old, rudimentary or primitive...and here we use it for both things and people...think you'd say unkind if it was a person.
Speaking of the Hermes, those 2 black ""connectors"" you see on the board in that photo have not something "more" comparing to the others, but something LESS! It's sort of scaring after having read about the layers, because under the gold connectors, after having removed them, I could detach just a sort of LAYER (that's what I meant with film), which btw didn't seem conducting side-by-side
Will update when I have some time to try the cables ""solution""!
p.s. You'd LOVE Selen's sexy sensual voice for TomTom I think...she's (was) an Italian pornostar still well known...See Wiki!!

Did you remove the traces? That's almost what the pics look like. By that I mean the gold under the solder.

Really strange screen issue

Hi all
So I just installed a few games on my Nexus 4 this evening and noticed some areas of the screen not responding. Its isolated to about a 1cm from the left on my screen. When I enable the "show touches" option under developer options I can see the ball jump when I move my finger over the area. Whats odd is that the very edge reports OK and I can swipe to Google Now without issue.
I was using PA with Franco and just as a test revered to stock and it seemed to work however after about 5 mins it went back to the same behaviour. Once again I installed my stock nandroid and now its just jumping like it was. So confused!
I guess some software is running and causing issue or the screen is over sensitive in that area me touching it is causing issue. Its worth noting that I changed the screen a few days ago so it could be the connectors but could it be isolated due to a connection?

bert682 said:
Hi all
So I just installed a few games on my Nexus 4 this evening and noticed some areas of the screen not responding. Its isolated to about a 1cm from the left on my screen. When I enable the "show touches" option under developer options I can see the ball jump when I move my finger over the area. Whats odd is that the very edge reports OK and I can swipe to Google Now without issue.
I was using PA with Franco and just as a test revered to stock and it seemed to work however after about 5 mins it went back to the same behaviour. Once again I installed my stock nandroid and now its just jumping like it was. So confused!
I guess some software is running and causing issue or the screen is over sensitive in that area me touching it is causing issue. Its worth noting that I changed the screen a few days ago so it could be the connectors but could it be isolated due to a connection?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok so I was able to use the old screen (cracked) in a frankenstein fashion and it works 100% of the time. The current seen seems to work for a while and then goes back to missing that area.
Will try and return for a replacement.

bert682 said:
Ok so I was able to use the old screen (cracked) in a frankenstein fashion and it works 100% of the time. The current seen seems to work for a while and then goes back to missing that area.
Will try and return for a replacement.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Update 3
So the issue has progressed to being intermittent. It will be broken for a few hours, then work OK for a few. This can happen at random,so, not plugged in as I suspect heat was an issue. I can get a text, its broken, pocket the phone and in 5 mins when I get the reply it can be working again.
Ive made a video of what its doing, notice the white dot "jump" when compared to the right.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0i6bdx3f4lWd3VmTWZXM0tjMTQ/edit?usp=sharing
Any suggestions?

You need a different screen if you want to fix it.

bert682 said:
Update 3
So the issue has progressed to being intermittent. It will be broken for a few hours, then work OK for a few. This can happen at random,so, not plugged in as I suspect heat was an issue. I can get a text, its broken, pocket the phone and in 5 mins when I get the reply it can be working again.
Ive made a video of what its doing, notice the white dot "jump" when compared to the right.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0i6bdx3f4lWd3VmTWZXM0tjMTQ/edit?usp=sharing
Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check that the flex cable isn't damaged, dirty or loose before you bother with a replacement. Either way, you probably need a replacement screen

lopezk38 said:
Check that the flex cable isn't damaged, dirty or loose before you bother with a replacement. Either way, you probably need a replacement screen
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea I took it all apart and while the new one was connected I was able to connect the old one, upside down etc. It worked OK. Did a bit of a blow and properly pressing down on the connectors.
I could accept the screen is at fault at return it but when the issue is not 100% of the time I know my luck will be that when it gets tested at the sellers end it will work, get sent back to me and be broken again.
Have some monitoring apps running now so I can tell of its heat. Since this side is away from the battery im less incluined to think its heat from that. The motherboard does run down that side so it could be something in that? Ever seen any reports of that getting too hot?
Could even be heat from the antenna cable somehow?
Strange that it spans the whole length though.
Ill risk the return I think, got a video of it being broken so will see what happens.

Run over to Radio Shack (or whatever the equivalent is in what ever country you're in - I don't know where you are) and find a product called Deoxit/Progold. Deoxit cleans the contacts from oxidation, Progold enhances conductivity. Or find something similar.
This stuff is great for blasting inside headphone jacks to get rid of the "scratching" when your plug gets moved around, to fix iffy USB connections, etc. A little goes a long way. I don't know if it'll solve your screen issues, but it's worth a try, and if it doesn't work, you can still use it on other things, so it's not a waste of money.

Planterz said:
Run over to Radio Shack (or whatever the equivalent is in what ever country you're in - I don't know where you are) and find a product called Deoxit/Progold. Deoxit cleans the contacts from oxidation, Progold enhances conductivity. Or find something similar.
This stuff is great for blasting inside headphone jacks to get rid of the "scratching" when your plug gets moved around, to fix iffy USB connections, etc. A little goes a long way. I don't know if it'll solve your screen issues, but it's worth a try, and if it doesn't work, you can still use it on other things, so it's not a waste of money.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, that stuff isnt cheap. Lets hope a little does go a long way!
Thanks, have ordered a small bottle, will give it a go.
I noticed that my new screen is genuine LG (at least its stamped all over it) but the one I removed seems to be a 3rd party replacement. Its got some areas that "look cheap" in comparison. Its got a small foil coating over the flex cable where as the one I removed didnt. I assume its to protect and move heat away?
Few forum posts mention the use of 3rd party chargers....I have used a cheap one when I am in work. I have used in on my old HTC Desire HD and my Lumia 520 and never had an issue. Do you think it could have damaged the digitiser?

bert682 said:
Wow, that stuff isnt cheap. Lets hope a little does go a long way!
Thanks, have ordered a small bottle, will give it a go.
I noticed that my new screen is genuine LG (at least its stamped all over it) but the one I removed seems to be a 3rd party replacement. Its got some areas that "look cheap" in comparison. Its got a small foil coating over the flex cable where as the one I removed didnt. I assume its to protect and move heat away?
Few forum posts mention the use of 3rd party chargers....I have used a cheap one when I am in work. I have used in on my old HTC Desire HD and my Lumia 520 and never had an issue. Do you think it could have damaged the digitiser?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interestingly enough , the original digitizer is wrapped with aluminum tape. Some knockoffs have a better cover in fact. They use a hard aluminum sheet instead of aluminum tape. Some knockoffs don't have that shielding which is bad because that tape is there to keep the IC from getting spammed with useless data by radio frequencies and such.
If you haven't dropped your device , i don'T think it is likely that there is a problem with the glass. It's most likely the IC.
You could transfer your old flex to your new glass which is easy but you need some seriously steady hands.
When you remove the glass from the frame , you will see the flex cable's contact zone. It's basically the part where it connects to the glass. If you heat that area up with a heat gun it's gonna come right off when the solder beneath melts. Take out the new one and the old one. You need a flathead tip for your solering iron , which is like a flathead screwdriver. Simply take some solder and spread that solder around the contact dots , don't worry it won't stick to the plastic but it will melt if you keep it at the same spot too much. When you're done spreading , there are two dots with which you can align your old flex cable to your new glass. Use some adhesive tape around the alignment dots and Align the dots with your flex cable (you'll know which dots when you see it because it's orange and kinda stands out) press it so the adhesive holds and then use your heat gun and melt the solder to the contact zone.
It's actually easier than it sounds.

Fixing the touch issues for good! (it was never a software problem (for me, anyway))

Note: the fix depicted below is only a plausible fix and it assumes the screen/digitizer itself is not faulty. If you intend to follow it, be aware that a faulty screen can be a possibility, so RMA if you can. Unlike the other software fixes out there, tampering with the hardware is a one-way trip and will void your warranty.
Ever since I got the OnePlus One, I've been having issues with the touchscreen. Some touches weren't being registered, and sometimes when I'm scrolling, something along the way would be touched instead. Double taps turned into single taps, the camera shutter button was hard to touch, and typing was unpredictable. The list goes on.
OnePlus has addressed this issue as a "software bug" (just like the yellow tint), and promised to fix it in future updates. It worked for some, and I did notice some improvement, but it just wasn't good enough for me. I thought all the software did was merely filter or mask the effects of the grounding issue, and anticipated or extrapolated touches made by the user.
No matter which ROM or which version of CM11S I used, the touchscreen was never quite perfect. At some point, I knew for sure it wasn't simply a "software bug", because I've tried numerous kernels and ROMs, to no avail.
So, I went on a little investigation, because I'm actually quite familiar with problems like this. The iPad Mini suffers from a very similar grounding issue when the digitzer gets replaced. The original digitizers are all insulated properly from the factory, but when it breaks and needs to be replaced, the replacement screens don't come with the insulating tape pre-installed. If not insulated, the digitizer makes contact with the inside of the aluminum unibody, and thus creates the grounding issue.
The tape insulating the touchscreen circuits has to be moved over from the original, broken screen to the new screen in order to prevent the issue. See the original, broken iPad Mini digitizer (left, bottom) compared to a new, replacement digitizer (left, top):
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Note how there are areas of the iPad's chassis that can make contact with the digitizer if not isolated.
I was 90% sure that something similar was going on with the OnePlus One. And I was right.
I fully disassembled my OnePlus One (for the second time), but this time around, I removed the screen as well. I didn't do it the first time because it's a risky operation; I might damage the only screen I had during the process, and it won't be as secure of a bond as before. But YOLO, right?
Here are the instructions on how to do it yourself!
As suspected, the digitizer flex makes direct contact to the metallic chassis before being connected to the logic board, just like the iPad Mini does with a replacement screen.
And sure enough, when the flex is isolated from the chassis, the problem disappeared. The phone had no problem registering all 10 touches, and every touch was more responsive than ever.
Debug mode, hardware edition!
So the fix was quite obvious; insulate that digitizer flex! I cut some of the insulating tape from the iPad Mini's digitizer and stuck it on the chassis where it was touching the flex. Any thin tape will do though.
I then reassembled the One, and as expected, the touchscreen now works perfectly. No more ghost touches, and no more grounding issue. I'm as happy as Larry
Why, then, did some units suffer more than others, and some received perfectly fine units? Well, here's my hypothesis. Unlike mainstream smartphone manufacturers, who either use properly isolated digitizers and/or double-sided 3M tape, OnePlus neglected the former and used glue instead.
Look closely in the image below - you can clearly see that it isn't tape that's holding the screen in place. That pattern is characteristic of unset glue that's been compressed.
It loses form and stickiness when removed. Double-sided tape retains its shape and doesn't lose stickiness.
Because glue was used, every individual phone most likely had a different clearance between the chassis and the digitizer flex.
From what I heard, the newer units have fixed this problem, but I can't confirm for myself exactly how they fixed it.
So there you have it! As it turns out, it really was a hardware problem (judging from my investigation). It would be great if other forum members can confirm my theory if they have the chance. If you:
Have a One that suffered from this issue
Have a broken screen
Want to try your hand at replacing the screen yourself
Now's a great opportunity!

Really nice investigation right here! Appreciate it!

Nice find!
Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

I luckily don't have a problem, or the guts to help with the theory. I did however figure it was hardware issue. Had similar issues with nexus 7 (2013) that many people believed to be a grounding issue, although I'm not sure where it may be.
Sent from my A0001 using XDA Free mobile app

I do have these touch problems on my OPO, most of the time.
Only thing that helped me making my phone useable, is Franco kernel (version 33 at the moment). Using franco kernel makes the phone useable with almost no touch glitches.
So only one kernel to choose from for me at the moment. With all other kernels I ran into ghost touches as soon as the phone got a little warm.
And now I'm trying to figure what is the smartest thing to do, RMA the phone, or just keep using franco kernel and enjoy my otherwise errorfree OPO?
As I read it takes about 4 weeks from sending in the faulty phone, to receiving a new one. That's not an easy choice for me, as I don't have another phone that I can use in the meanwhile.
Fixing it myself is not an option either, as my hands simply aren't steady enough.
Choices, choices... [emoji37]

An announcement from OnePlus.
https://forums.oneplus.net/threads/touch-screen-issues-were-listening.186829/
Cat H said:
A few months ago, we became aware that
some users were experiencing problems
with their touch screen and immediately
investigated the possible cause. After
multiple hardware tests at our factory and
troubleshooting with our partners at
Synaptics and Cyanogen, we determined
the best solution would be a software
update. While a recent update proved a
successful fix for a vast majority of
affected users, some of our fans are still
having trouble.
We’ve seen a thread from a user who
appeared to fix his device by insulating
the digitizer flex. Our engineers attempted
to recreate the problem as described in
the forum post (on both older and newer
devices) by removing the glue that was
insulating the flex and making sure that it
was in contact with metal parts of the
phone. But, tests showed that even with
this alteration, the touch screen continued
to register all touches successfully. We
are working on further testing to prove
this user’s hypothesis true or false, and
we will publish a video to show our tests
and results. We strongly advise against
other users attempting the same
procedure. Dismantling the phone in this
manner will void your warranty and could
cause injuries to yourself or damage your
phone.
For anyone still experiencing trouble with
their touch screen, we assure you that we
are actively looking into this matter. If we
find the problem to be hardware-related,
we will have a plan to help those users.
We believe that transparency and honesty
are at the foundation of innovation, and
we are honored when our fans work to
make us better. We are listening, and we
are serious about coming to a resolution.
We will keep you in the loop with live
updates to this thread.
Last updated: 24 November at 11:40pm
PST, 2:40am EST, 7:40 GMT
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

fgaurano said:
An announcement from OnePlus.
https://forums.oneplus.net/threads/touch-screen-issues-were-listening.186829/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh wow ,that's Great news ! I wonder what they will do now
Gesendet von meinem Nexus 5

Chad_Petree said:
Oh wow ,that's Great news ! I wonder what they will do now
Gesendet von meinem Nexus 5
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Deny it.

vantt1 said:
Deny it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This. Although I love the phone. Let's face it. They aren't making enough profit off of a phone sale to be able to swallow this cost of a mass rma .
Sent from my A0001 using XDA Free mobile app

Added to OnePlus One index thread:
[INDEX] OnePlus One Resources Compilation Roll-Up
Transmitted via Bacon

vantt1 said:
Deny it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks like pretty much this
UPDATE 1:
The general concern is this: if the digitizer flex makes direct contact with the metallic chassis, a ground fault occurs leading to touchscreen abnormalities.
Theoretically, this shouldn’t be an issue as preventative measures were engineered into the design of the OnePlus One. There is a piece of plastic overlayed on the metal casing which insures uniform spacing and prevents ground issues. Additionally, there is insulation PI around the flexible printed circuit (FPC) and sealant at the bottom of the bonding. So, even if the digitizer flex makes direct contact with the metallic chassis, no undesirable touchscreen effects should occur.
However, we’ve gone into the lab to test the OnePlus One in an attempt to re-create the proposed issue. In order to test a worst case scenario, our engineers have overlaid the area with highly-conductive metal to ensure that potential ground issues will be apparent. Please note that we tested both older and newer models of the OnePlus One with the latest Synaptics firmware.
As you can see, we were unable to reproduce the touchscreen issues on a hardware level, in regards to the suggested problem.
We believe that the user who managed to solve his issues by adding insulation to the area represents a very small minority of affected users, as we weren’t able to re-create the problem in a lab environment.
That said, we are still taking this issue very seriously, and we are currently running further tests involving static electricity. We will keep everyone updated along the way.
Last updated: 24 November at 10:50am PST, 1:50pm EST, 18:50 GMT
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From one plus one forums
https://forums.oneplus.net/threads/touch-screen-issues-were-listening.186829/
There is a video at the post that supposedly shows 10 touches being registered. But it shows the number 10 before the guy even touches the screen?? Is that how the app is supposed to behave? I thought it showed the touches as you did them in real time... Hmm...
Sent from my A0001 using XDA Free mobile app

Now this is what XDA forums is all about. Great job man !

ek69 said:
Looks like pretty much this
From one plus one forums
https://forums.oneplus.net/threads/touch-screen-issues-were-listening.186829/
There is a video at the post that supposedly shows 10 touches being registered. But it shows the number 10 before the guy even touches the screen?? Is that how the app is supposed to behave? I thought it showed the touches as you did them in real time... Hmm...
Sent from my A0001 using XDA Free mobile app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This app has been used for testing:
https://play.google.com/store/search?q=multi touch&c=apps
The number shows the maximum amount of simultanious touches which has been registered previously.
It stays this way, even if you restart the app or even the device.
There's an option to "reset touches" which resets the counter to 0 if you restart the app afterwards.
So the app works as intended.

AcmE85 said:
This app has been used for testing:
https://play.google.com/store/search?q=multi touch&c=apps
The number shows the maximum amount of simultanious touches which has been registered previously.
It stays this way, even if you restart the app or even the device.
There's an option to "reset touches" which resets the counter to 0 if you restart the app afterwards.
So the app works as intended.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just use the "show pointer location" option in the developer options menu, shows that number of touches in the top right corner and I don't have to install any apps

Either way looks like they are denying any issues in their end lol
I wonder if the device they were using is the older tpk display or newer wintek display...
Newer display wouldn't have any issues I imagine
Sent from my A0001 using XDA Free mobile app

I only have the touch issue when I have slightly longer nails (I'm a professional musician), then when I am sliding my finger along the screen, my nail touches the screen rather than my finger, then the sliding breaks... Specially annoying when using Swiftkey or any slide to type keyboard...
This is issue doesn't happen on my HTC One m8 or my wifes Note 4...

Hello, I have used this guide to fix my grounding issue http://forum.xda-developers.com/oneplus-one/general/repair-guide-oneplus-one-disassembly-t2979351
Everything went fine exept I could not use two laywers of 3M tape (1mm and 3mm)
But I used one laywer and that went very well.
With two laywers I was not able to get the display in to the mid-frame .
And I put electric tape to isulate the digitizerflex just like the pictures.
But it did not do any diffrence, the phone still has the same grounding issue.
Does anybody have any tip on what I should/could do?
Thanks /P1an

P1an said:
Hello, I have used this guide to fix my grounding issue http://forum.xda-developers.com/oneplus-one/general/repair-guide-oneplus-one-disassembly-t2979351
Everything went fine exept I could not use two laywers of 3M tape (1mm and 3mm)
But I used one laywer and that went very well.
With two laywers I was not able to get the display in to the mid-frame .
And I put electric tape to isulate the digitizerflex just like the pictures.
But it did not do any diffrence, the phone still has the same grounding issue.
Does anybody have any tip on what I should/could do?
Thanks /P1an
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you test the screen without it installed in the chassis? And does your issue escalate with heat? (i.e. warmer phone = more prominent issue)

vantt1 said:
Did you test the screen without it installed in the chassis? And does your issue escalate with heat? (i.e. warmer phone = more prominent issue)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No I did not. It seemed hard to do from the pictures in the guide.
Yes it does, home in Sweden (cold) my phone works pretty okey, maybe a little bit better after the teardown.
But I was on vacation in Egypt like (30-35 C) about 1 mouth ago and over there it was terrible.
Before Egypt i did not have any problems.
I have tried having the phone in the bed and under a cover at home so it gets like bodytempreture and then I have more touch issues. (This was before the disassemble)
I tried the same thing now but could not replicate the problem.
Now it's just semi bad all the time.

P1an said:
No I did not. It seemed hard to do from the pictures in the guide.
Yes it does, home in Sweden (cold) my phone works pretty okey, maybe a little bit better after the teardown.
But I was on vacation in Egypt like (30-35 C) about 1 mouth ago and over there it was terrible.
Before Egypt i did not have any problems.
I have tried having the phone in the bed and under a cover at home so it gets like bodytempreture and then I have more touch issues. (This was before the disassemble)
I tried the same thing now but could not replicate the problem.
Now it's just semi bad all the time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try putting tape on the back of the LCD (along the left, right and top edges) such that it is insulated from the chassis too. If that doesn't help, then the digitizer itself may be faulty

All of your G3 hardware problems - SOLVED!! (BSOD, screen flicker, sim card, etc)

Hello all
I had a chance to buy 15 units of G3, all broken or faulty. The purchase was made via an Swiss operator who was about to recycle the devices, but instead of recycling I bought them via some program for that. They dont pay for recycling, I get the devices extremely cheap, no one pays any tax (Switzerland stuff and their laws)
First of all I want to say - LG made a phenomenal job of envisioning a device - G3 was superb compared to all the phones released in that time period (S5, OPO1, Z2/Z3, etc) with it's bleeding edge technology and phenomenal design (which I am sure inspired others to go bezel-less and edgy and so on). 2K screen, great chipset, infrared focus and insane camera quality, etc.
Only thing they made bad was actual hardware assembly: I have never seen such bad work in modern electronics judging just by the amount of extra-flux you can see on the motherboards, looks extremely sloppy. That kind of assembly eventually led to 1000 problems, which I am sure all of us G3 owners experienced past the 24 month warranty period. Some would go so far to say that this stuff with G3 could be considered Planned obsolescence with all the problems appearing just around the 24 months clock, and with the MM update (taking into account that LG held the Nexus flag at that moment and they went over their heads thinking they are going to surpass Samsung, just like Samsung did to HTC)
My 15 units were:
- 6 units BSOD
- 5 units screen flicker
- 2 units "wifi turning on"
- 2 units sim card removed and restart/No sim card/invalid card
Note: I am not electrician and I dont understand how to read schematics, all of my info came from people that I figured best know how to repair mobile phone stuff (and also speak THE WORST english)
G3 motherboard layout for future reference:
http://i.imgsafe.org/1b64bf1021.jpg
1. BSOD -
The problem is with bad BGA solder of MMC chip. Not the actual chip (very rare occurrence). In short: BGA Solder is type of assembly that uses little balls of solder instead of pins, to hold the chip in place. There are more than 60+ balls on the MMC chip so no homemade replacement is possible (there is actually a turkish video which is NOT the way to do it as the guy doesnt add new balls, just strips old ones away)
permanent solution: give it into a repair shop to replace or do a proper reball of the Sandisk memory chip
semi-permanent solution (sometimes works 100%): give the chip a heat of 120-150 celsius (no american units, sorry) for 2 minutes (using a high powered hair dryer of at least 2000W, or a proper heat-gun) with slight push (I used wooden objects so that Metalic ones wouldnt damage the chip) > this repaired total of 5 BSOD phones, just one went dead completely after several tries. ALL of my 5 units never went back to BSOD. Please, DO NOT use ovens or anything like that, If you dont have a god-damn hair dryer give it to a technician and ask him to blow it for a minute or so. Ovens WILL burn other parts of the board, and knowing how shi*ty the whole assembly is, baking the board will just detach other chips. If you apply pressure to the chip, use something wooden like a chopstick or a pencil (dont use bamboo, it will release oils, use dry wood)
2. screen flicker -
The problem IS NOT a graphic chip (analogix), the problem is NOT CPU, as many have speculated in the past and the people who putt thermal paste over a CPU need serious education on the topic. Thermal paste is in no way a magical substance that lowers temperature when applied - it's purpose is to fill the gaps between a heating body (CPU) and heat dispenser (cooling unit, cooler, aluminum grill, etc), so thermal paste is a gap filler, not a cooling magical stuff. With that out of the picture, the problem of the screen flicker is a completely separate integrated circuit which goes haywire due to some magnetic stuff:
PERMANENT SOLUTION (homemade doable):
Now first, go back to motherboard image, and on the front side of the board find Gyro Sensor chip - just above that chip, there is a grid of 5x5 pin-like circuits.
http://i.imgsafe.org/1ba7e9ccc9.jpg
Now that you have located them, that is your LCD screen flicker solution: I didnt quite understand what is really going on there, but you need to apply heat (just like in the BSOD solution, same time same temperature), and use metallic object to "clean" the pins. He explained to me that the screen flicker is due to some magnetic residue that builds up in that circuits, and a clean metal will remove it. (how that is even possible I dont know but the solution works) Long story short - I used a really fine metallic brush (Dremel set) and once I heated it up, just strolled with brush over those pin-heads. According to the guy, the metallic object needed for cleaning should be non-magnetic. If you dont remove the screen flicker at first, use a really fine object to give all the pins a push (once heated), I used broken needle (regular needle is too sharp) or smallest Phillips screwdriver in my set. IMPORTANT: when doing this, there is a ton of chips nearby so it's smart to protect rest of the board with Alu-foil
total of my 5 screen flicker units NEVER went back to screen flicker issue. Special note: 2 of my units after completely removed screen flicker issue, immediately went to "no sim card" issue and I dont know how that is connected, but there is also a method for sim-card issue repair further down the topic
3. Wifi turning on/wifi grayed out/wifi scanning
The problem over here is also not the problem of the actual Wifi chip (motherboard image back side, red mark). The problem is the power controller located on the front side (red mark). It is also a BGA solder issue so it's repairable
permanent solution: reball or replace chip in proper mobile service shop
semi-permanent solluton: Use the same method of repairing as for the BSOD problem, but with applying heat + pressure onto the power controller chip. Be careful as there are tons of IC's nearby. Homemade solution worked partially for me - one unit (out of 2) is completely repaired, other unit actually went dead (I believe I gave it too much pressure, that was my first repair )
4. Sim card removed and restart/No sim card/invalid card -
The problem with this is also not a problem of RF chip (backside green) or the 2g/3g/4g chip (backside light red), and it is NOT a problem of Sim card slot: it's one lousy mo-fo chip that's not even listed in the hardware parts image, and it's only noted in the actual schematics (I believe it's a chip for regulating power onto the sim card slot and transferring data further)
this one (red arrow pointing onto it):
http://i.imgsafe.org/1c52a74d87.jpg
permanent solution: replace, reball or reflow in service shops (when I say replace, it makes sense as new chips out of the box have BGA balls already on it, just need to place it and heat it up)
semi-permanent solution: same method goes like BSOD and wifi problems - apply heat and moderate pressure with wooden object. The problem with this one is that it will reappear as a problem. I had one unit in the service shop where the repair guy gave it some insane heat for 5-6 seconds while protecting rest of the board, and it was permanent, no sim problem any more. In homemade variant, the problem seems almost unable to fix, but you need to be persistent. sometimes it takes 4-5 tries for the phone (placing the board, and removing it again and so on is a pain in the arse) to recognize sim and after that you are good for a month or so, once it "catches" I gave it a try with a higher temperature / less time (200c, 30 seconds) and it shows better results, I dont need to try the board for 3-4-5 times until it recognizes the SIM, it's imediately good to go, but even with that it reappears after a month, 2 months, but sometimes after only couple of days
one unit is permanent (reflow in service shop), others (repaired screen flickers that went "no sim card" ) bug me still with reappearing SIM problem.
There you go, I wanted to share this with everyone so you people wouldnt lose your mind with paper tricks, ovens, and such, as G3 is still really powerful device and it would be bad for all the units to end up in a bin. I am using 3/32 version with fulmics and it works as any new 600 usd device, if G3 still works without a flaw there is really no need to go newer, not yet.
END NOTE: every attempt at trying this is on your own responsibility, I am not responsible if you fry your board, break your device, or tear your flex cables and such.
END NOTE2: in my experience, dont attempt to try the newly repaired board with battery less than 40%, I wont get into it right now but all Li-ion/Li-poly devices work at their best when there is a good charge
good luck with potential experiments fellow XDA people

Thank you for this thread, I'm sure it will help a lot of more technologically-minded users on XDA. As for me, I did have a sim card removed problem but thankfully it appeared within my warranty period so I took it to them and they replaced the entire PCB (MoBo).
Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the info. After troubleshooting a few BSOD & flicker phones I came to pretty much the same conclusion as well. Although some temporary G3 fixes work for a short time, nothing is actually "repaired" until you replace the BGA ball solder; so unless you have the proper equipment to work on BGA components you're kind of screwed.
LG has a quality problem with their manufacturing techniques of their motherboards; the latest issue was bootloop issues on the later G-series phones that were also tied to poor soldering(which they are now being sued over). It's a shame too, because I like LG's devices...just hard to trust them completely at this point. But I guess that's the philosophy of these huge OEM's these days: skimp on quality to meet sales demands. Samsung is a good example of this as well with their exploding note 7's and red tinted S8 displays(that they refuse to admit is a hardware problem - "lets just make the red tint slider longer!" just like their software "fix" for the Note 7 battery that didn't work and eventually required a massive recall). Buying a phone is turning into a crap shoot these days

@startswithPendswithOOH - you are right about everything, they really have crappy assembly. But for me, almost all of BSOD and screen flicker issues are repairable in the home conditions using methods from original post. Luckily I do have a professional heat gun so I can even experiment on the temperature and time of heating and my repair rate is great (fortunately I had 15 devices to experiment on). I actually made some money of it, sold almost all of them that were repaired and not a single buyer called me back with a problem. My girlfriend and my nephew are going with my repaired G3s and they use it constantly. Especially my girl, she abuses it to the point that I get annoyed and remove all her running apps (sums up to 20+ ) cause she uses just 10 of some social apps and such, her phone should overheat and problems should reappear if it were not for a good repair. She usesd BSOD repaired device and didnt have one for 4 months now

Update on possible solution for the sim card problem
I did a little tempering with a piece of dry wood, and I made it EXACTLY into a shape of the square of the SIM card chip (described in the original post). I used a stick and shaped it with dremel sandpapering tool, to be exactly the size of the square. Then I putt a cloth underneath the board (so when applying pressure from the upper side you wont break some other stuff opposite) and made a pressure with wooden stick, approximately the force needed to pierce the styrofoam with index finger. That's about the strongest pressure you can give it, and not damage the board. heated it up with 200c with a heat gun for a minute
6th day without problems, without sim card failure, should be noted that I am abusing that board via data and calls going all the time and it seems the problem is solved, will report again in 3 weeks (full month)

Hey!
Do you have any fix for rear camera problem?

Sp3cTeR said:
Hey!
Do you have any fix for rear camera problem?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
well I do - only problem with rear camera should be - replace rear camera :cyclops:
Oooooh, I stand corrected after a bit of google-ing. I see that it IS an actual problem with no solution, camera sometimes works, sometimes it doesnt. Well, it could be yet another chip on the board, actually the way people described the problem on Androidcentral forums, seems it's 100% a chip issue. If it was HW issue it would work or not work, this partial usability points to another motherboard problem
anyways you should check all the stuff that should NOT be motherboard issue
1. camera module gone bad - replacement should be extremely cheap, check out service shops for spare or Aliexpress for mega-cheap spare, if you know how to open ask someone with G3 to replace cam modules for couple of days to check
2. camera flex cable - in the process of fiddling with the phone and removing motherboard several times, one can easily tear the flex cable of the cam, examine it
3. motherboard connector for camera - for this I really dont see even a remote chance of happening, but im still mentioning it
4. software problem - eliminate the possibility of tempering with root access with files, by doing a factory reset

Well, just bought lg g3 for $60. Pretty clean. The problem was that owner couldn't get it out of Firwmare Upgrade screen, had no experience nor time / patience. So I bought it. Later that night, managed to flash v10e from lgg3root(dot)com tutorial for it. From the first try.
But using the phone got laggier and laggier, and if I were to do multiple tasks like switching between apps and stuff like this, the phone would freeze and then in about 15-20 seconds it would give me the LG logo and pretty much stay there, eventually giving the "kernel crashed" screen (BSOD ?? )
Please, what do u think the problem is?
Managed eventually get v20h / v30b on it but was pretty much unusable, and most of the time, when trying to get it connect with the ADB and run "reboot recovery" and do factory wipe, it would just crash again. Now I'm stuggling to get v10e again on it ... but it's really a pain. I've got about a week worth of hours into making it work. Please, read my thread to get some more 'clues' https://forum.xda-developers.com/lg-g3/help/help-horrible-experience-d855-t3600094

AKAndrew41 said:
Well, just bought lg g3 for $60. Pretty clean. The problem was that owner couldn't get it out of Firwmare Upgrade screen, had no experience nor time / patience. So I bought it. Later that night, managed to flash v10e from lgg3root(dot)com tutorial for it. From the first try.
But using the phone got laggier and laggier, and if I were to do multiple tasks like switching between apps and stuff like this, the phone would freeze and then in about 15-20 seconds it would give me the LG logo and pretty much stay there, eventually giving the "kernel crashed" screen (BSOD ?? )
Please, what do u think the problem is?
Managed eventually get v20h / v30b on it but was pretty much unusable, and most of the time, when trying to get it connect with the ADB and run "reboot recovery" and do factory wipe, it would just crash again. Now I'm stuggling to get v10e again on it ... but it's really a pain. I've got about a week worth of hours into making it work. Please, read my thread to get some more 'clues' https://forum.xda-developers.com/lg-g3/help/help-horrible-experience-d855-t3600094
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, the links arr down?

i fixed my screen flickering issue thank you so much i will report if it comes back it's no problem for me but the fix you described works that means those circuits have something to do with this,i would like to know if it's possible to clean those circuits with alcohol it's maybe stupid but idk you tell me other than that thank you
edit:it's back sorry if got anyone excited,i'm back to putting the pressure on the SOC

Thank bro u saved my device!
Updated : flickering to fading comes again after less than an hour with less usage , just charging it, so i tried heated up and put pressure again but this time on the processor.

Igoritza said:
4. Sim card removed and restart/No sim card/invalid card -
The problem with this is also not a problem of RF chip (backside green) or the 2g/3g/4g chip (backside light red), and it is NOT a problem of Sim card slot: it's one lousy mo-fo chip that's not even listed in the hardware parts image, and it's only noted in the actual schematics (I believe it's a chip for regulating power onto the sim card slot and transferring data further)
this one (red arrow pointing onto it):
http://i.imgsafe.org/1c52a74d87.jpg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well done mate, but according to service manual the chip you pointing with red arrow is NFC
Im bit confused now what it have to do with the sim

As far as i think, if bsod or screen flicker comes up, theres no need to fix it because its dead, so just buy a new mobo and thats it.

startswithPendswithOOH said:
Thanks for the info. After troubleshooting a few BSOD & flicker phones I came to pretty much the same conclusion as well. Although some temporary G3 fixes work for a short time, nothing is actually "repaired" until you replace the BGA ball solder; so unless you have the proper equipment to work on BGA components you're kind of screwed.
LG has a quality problem with their manufacturing techniques of their motherboards; the latest issue was bootloop issues on the later G-series phones that were also tied to poor soldering(which they are now being sued over). It's a shame too, because I like LG's devices...just hard to trust them completely at this point. But I guess that's the philosophy of these huge OEM's these days: skimp on quality to meet sales demands. Samsung is a good example of this as well with their exploding note 7's and red tinted S8 displays(that they refuse to admit is a hardware problem - "lets just make the red tint slider longer!" just like their software "fix" for the Note 7 battery that didn't work and eventually required a massive recall). Buying a phone is turning into a crap shoot these days
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Preach on. Lol i got a g4 im in the lawsuit over

Yeah black screen comes back when the tmperature was hot. So its time to throw away this crap g3. Hopeless .

2 years ago a yellow coffe spot appeared on the top corner of my lg3 display, so i sent back to warranty and they changed the lcd screen.
Some month after the same coffe spot appear in the same area, i brought back the phone in warranty they changed the lcd. again
Now i have the problem for the 3rd time, im not in warranty anymore.
In my opinion is not the lcd, the lcd cant burn itself in that way, i think is a glue problem and maybe i can buy a new 13$ glass on amazon and replace it.
But before to risk to broke the phone, anyone experienced that?
This is an image i found on google image, is not my G3 but that explain my situation.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

L33TaS said:
As far as i think, if bsod or screen flicker comes up, theres no need to fix it because its dead, so just buy a new mobo and thats it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
that's is also a temporary solution,if you're wasting money better buy another smartphone that is no an lg,go with another reliable brand

Khalid47 said:
i fixed my screen flickering issue thank you so much i will report if it comes back it's no problem for me but the fix you described works that means those circuits have something to do with this,i would like to know if it's possible to clean those circuits with alcohol it's maybe stupid but idk you tell me other than that thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
how close did you hold the heat gun/ hair dryer?
Khalid47 said:
that's is also a temporary solution,if you're wasting money better buy another smartphone that is no an lg,go with another reliable brand
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is true. I bought a new mobo from DhGate to fix the famous "WiFi saved but not connecting issue" only to end up with the screen flickering, lines, and fade to black issue with the replacement mobo. I want to get a new phone but I'm waiting for the note 8/ pixel 2 .

unbreakabl3 said:
how close did you hold the heat gun/ hair dryer?
This is true. I bought a new mobo from DhGate to fix the famous "WiFi saved but not connecting issue" only to end up with the screen flickering, lines, and fade to black issue with the replacement mobo. I want to get a new phone but I'm waiting for the note 8/ pixel 2 .
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i held a hairdryer for 3 mins with my hand i'm thinking the problem will comeback but i don't care i fixed it many times temporarely,as for the mobo you shouldn't have wasted your money it's really dumb people who buy it again we already know that it will die really what's the point of that,as for your future daily driver i would recommand you go with a sony i'm not working for them or anything i had a sony and my brother has one never experienced anything hardware related or software related,just talking from my experience with this brand i can't advise you something that i never tried samsung or xiaomi etc...,goodluck with your fixing

Khalid47 said:
i held a hairdryer for 3 mins with my hand i'm thinking the problem will comeback but i don't care i fixed it many times temporarely,as for the mobo you shouldn't have wasted your money it's really dumb people who buy it again we already know that it will die really what's the point of that,as for your future daily driver i would recommand you go with a sony i'm not working for them or anything i had a sony and my brother has one never experienced anything hardware related or software related,just talking from my experience with this brand i can't advise you something that i never tried samsung or xiaomi etc...,goodluck with your fixing
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i meant how far away from the chip did you hold the hairdryer? 10cm, 20cm etc.
well I wanted to keep the phone going till the Fall lol.. and plus i didnt think that the replacement would have issues tbh. Thanks for the recommendation. I'll look into them.

I managed to kill my 9 yr old Alienware while performing a GPU upgrade.

I am the original owner of a 2013 Alienware 17 R1 I bought myself as a treat a long time ago. I opted for the 770M to save money, and it's served me well over the years. It's survived my military career, a nasty divorce, a car crash, and moving halfway across the country. It's never once let me down.
I decided to upgrade the GPU to try to lend it a couple more years. Since I wanted a plug and play solution, I ordered an 880M from Amazon; that arrived yesterday. I already had the 3 pipe heat sink ready, with some adhesive thermal pads and thermal compound.
So, after applying thermal pads to both the heat sink as well as the GPU, I went forward with the install. It's pretty straightforward in this laptop - remove the bottom cover (2 screws), remove the GPU fan (3 screws), remove the GPU heat sink (4 screws) and finally remove the GPU (2 screws).
It had been running beautifully before the upgrade. As they say, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it..."
I installed the new GPU and the new heat sink, then put it back together and pressed the power button. Nothing - no lights, no beeps, absolutely no response at all.
So, I removed the GPU and put the old one back in. Same result.
I removed the GPU entirely. No dice.
Feeling desperate, I removed the drives and the palmrest, and inspected/reseated the ribbon cables connecting the power button/light board to the card reader board, and the card reader board to the mainboard. I also checked the power connector too, even though it's on the opposite side of the laptop from the GPU side. Nothing worked. I tried a power drain - unplug battery, leave AC adapter unplugged, hold down power for 30 seconds. No good.
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At this point, I suspect that this "tested and functional" 880M from China is shorted out and damaged my mainboard when I applied power. I have a replacement main board on the way; if any of you are familiar with these laptops, I'm all open to ideas.
This is my main PC. I really don't want it to die. Sure, my wife has her HP all in one and Asus laptop, but they're both slow as snot, barely sufficient for web browsing.
If I'm unable to resurrect this thing, I'll probably be building a PC. To that end, here's the parts list for suggestions/critiques.

Ouch. Sorry to hear that.
There may be a fuse* somewhere on the mobo around the power section. Try pulling power and see if it resets will original hardware. A schematic or any internal diagrams be helpful for you.
Bear in mind that you should follow ESD safe practices when handling the mobo and chipsets out of circuit. It takes very little static electricity to damage them. At least raise room humidity to 50%, wear all cotton and work on a bare wood surface. A earth grounded ESD mat and wrist strap are best.
*or a fusable link, resistor, etc. Maybe a surface mount.

blackhawk said:
Ouch. Sorry to hear that.
There may be a fuse* somewhere on the mobo around the power section. Try pulling power and see if it resets will original hardware. A schematic or any internal diagrams be helpful for you.
Bear in mind that you should follow ESD safe practices when handling the mobo and chipsets out of circuit. It takes very little static electricity to damage them. At least raise room humidity to 50%, wear all cotton and work on a bare wood surface. A earth grounded ESD mat and wrist strap are best.
*or a fusable link, resistor, etc. Maybe a surface mount.
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Not terribly likely in a laptop but I'll check anyway.
I've been in the electronics industry for 16 years, but you can never be too careful.
I forgot I had the same problem a couple years ago after messing with BIOS settings. I didn't in this case, but I'm going to try resetting the CMOS like I did then. If that doesn't work, new motherboard arrives tomorrow. And on the plus side, I found someone selling his 980m for $150 2 states away, $100 less than I'd be paying for something of questionable origins from China.

V0latyle said:
Not terribly likely in a laptop but I'll check anyway.
I've been in the electronics industry for 16 years, but you can never be too careful.
I forgot I had the same problem a couple years ago after messing with BIOS settings. I didn't in this case, but I'm going to try resetting the CMOS like I did then. If that doesn't work, new motherboard arrives tomorrow. And on the plus side, I found someone selling his 980m for $150 2 states away, $100 less than I'd be paying for something of questionable origins from China.
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Bios configuration... think you hit it.

blackhawk said:
Bios configuration... think you hit it.
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Yeah. Well, again, I didn't change anything before I shut it down for the upgrade. I checked to make sure it was in UEFI a few days ago but I didn't change anything, and rebooted several times between then and now. I don't know how swapping the GPU would mess up the BIOS, and to make matters worse, there's no clear way to reset the CMOS; removing the hold up battery requires removing the main board. Stupid Dell. Going to tear into it today, and if that doesn't work, new main board gets delivered tomorrow.

V0latyle said:
Yeah. Well, again, I didn't change anything before I shut it down for the upgrade. I checked to make sure it was in UEFI a few days ago but I didn't change anything, and rebooted several times between then and now. I don't know how swapping the GPU would mess up the BIOS, and to make matters worse, there's no clear way to reset the CMOS; removing the hold up battery requires removing the main board. Stupid Dell. Going to tear into it today, and if that doesn't work, new main board gets delivered tomorrow.
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Yes well... read this.
You may need to flash a different bios version.
This site may be more useful to you, maybe someone that has done this before will reply.
Copy your current bios settings down.
Make sure the new mobo bios version is correct... it's always easy until you do it

blackhawk said:
Yes well... read this.
You may need to flash a different bios version.
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VBIOS. My Alienware already has A17, the latest BIOS version
blackhawk said:
This site may be more useful to you, maybe someone that has done this before will reply.
Copy your current bios settings down.
Make sure the new mobo bios version is correct... it's always easy until you do it
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Click to collapse
I'm talking to some guys in the Alien Resurrection discord, the only thing I should have to do is modify the driver INF, and even then, NVidia started shipping universal driver packages in 2014, so it may be plug and play.
Regardless, none of this should have killed my computer. At the very most, I should have got a POST code, but even then, it's most likely that it would have booted into Windows and been unable to recognize the GPU. It has both integrated graphics and discrete (NVidia Optimus).
I tore into it yesterday, took the mainboard out, and removed the CMOS battery. Carefully inspected the board and cables, nothing seemed amiss. Followed a recommended guide from the Discord guys on a NVRAM reset, didn't work.
New mainboard should get delivered today. GPU seller has apparently accepted the return but has not yet sent me a shipping label, and there is no way in hell I'm paying to ship this back to China.

V0latyle said:
VBIOS. My Alienware already has A17, the latest BIOS version
I'm talking to some guys in the Alien Resurrection discord, the only thing I should have to do is modify the driver INF, and even then, NVidia started shipping universal driver packages in 2014, so it may be plug and play.
Regardless, none of this should have killed my computer. At the very most, I should have got a POST code, but even then, it's most likely that it would have booted into Windows and been unable to recognize the GPU. It has both integrated graphics and discrete (NVidia Optimus).
I tore into it yesterday, took the mainboard out, and removed the CMOS battery. Carefully inspected the board and cables, nothing seemed amiss. Followed a recommended guide from the Discord guys on a NVRAM reset, didn't work.
New mainboard should get delivered today. GPU seller has apparently accepted the return but has not yet sent me a shipping label, and there is no way in hell I'm paying to ship this back to China.
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Click to collapse
It's hard to say especially when it's stone cold dead. A fuse of some type mounted on the pcb or elsewhere. A tech that's work a lot with this series be more knowledgeable.
It could be a solder fracture that resulted over time and flexing the pcb just a bit opened it up.
BGA's are real suspectable to board flexing.
If made with no lead solder it was born to die... no lead solder is awful.

blackhawk said:
It's hard to say especially when it's stone cold dead. A fuse of some type mounted on the pcb or elsewhere. A tech that's work a lot with this series be more knowledgeable.
It could be a solder fracture that resulted over time and flexing the pcb just a bit opened it up.
BGA's are real suspectable to board flexing.
If made with no lead solder it was born to die... no lead solder is awful.
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Click to collapse
Well, I got the new mainboard, swapped the CPU and RAM over. Booted right up. Reassembled laptop, everything is running beautifully. The only issue now is that all the AlienFX colors are pink so I have to download the software that controls that....
Seller of the bad GPU still hasn't sent me a return label, and I wonder how much success I'd have going after them for the cost of the mainboard