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So, I'm loving the scroll wheel experience on all 4 of my Hermes units. It's not as effective as my 2 P990i's scroll wheel, but it's a nice change that allows better one-handed operation on Pocket PCs. I mean, try using an HTC Universal with one hand. It's a nightmare, either way! Laptop mode, OR tablet mode! With the scroll wheel we're one step nearer to it.
Without having the unit in my hand to actually try, I find it strange that the wheel is on the left side of the unit. I guess by your email, it still feels comfortable.
my best guess is that they figured that if you have the stylus in your right hand then you can use the wheel with your left. So I've had mine about a week now, and my impression is: NOPE If I've got the stylus out, why do i need the wheel? I need the wheel on the right to use INSTEAD of the stylus - just like my Blackberry. Nice try, but they missed the mark.
By placing it on the left they also have made it easy to by mistake touch the wheel, and change focus, when using the hardware keyboard!
And when in a car holder, if you have it to the right, you have to put your hand infront og the screen to be able to scroll!!
So i've been using my hermes since december i think but my scroll wheel has been acting wierd since day 1 and was wondering if anyone else experiences the same thing.
Basicly as i scroll down the page (or whatever i'm scrolling) jumps up.
It looks like for every 2 clicks down i get one click up... anyone else having this issue? should i send it in for warranty repair?
I get that randomly and I have seen it reported before. Not aware of anything possible to fix it though.
Mike
my scroll wheel has been playing up a month after i got it and now i don't even bother to use it since its useless and irritatingly so ie. you scroll down and the cursor goes up!
oh well, just ignore it till i upgrade to the next phone
my969 said:
my scroll wheel has been playing up a month after i got it and now i don't even bother to use it since its useless and irritatingly so ie. you scroll down and the cursor goes up!
oh well, just ignore it till i upgrade to the next phone
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yah i was thinking along the same lines... posted this cuz i was curious to how many are seeing this and if i should send it in for warranty repair...
mine works, but i feel the quality is poor.
I have to be EXTREAMLY carfull when i press the scrol wheel in that it doesn't scroll up or down as its being pressed in!
the quality when compared to a blackberry scroll is IMHO very very poor.
I have similar problem. I can scroll down without problems (and very exactyl), but scrolling upward need 2-3 times more finger action (and is not ecact too, sometimes jumps 1 line up or down).
First I thougt its hardw
re related (maybe dirt in the wheel) but after a hardreset its gone. But comes back after some software is installed.
Thats really bad, because the scroll wheel is the key for 1 hand usage!
Why HTC can not use Sonyericson (P900) type of wheel?
I have the same problem but it started after 5 months of my i-mate JasJam usage. I went to warranty claim center and they boot it up with clean installation. It seems work for some hours fine then again started to skip the lines of selection. Till now I am also searching for solution coz I can't go again and again to that place its far away man. I think it is neither hardware problem nor software problem. The thing is its flop and HTC has removed it from their new device HTC Touch.
This jog system came in Sony (not Sony Ericcson) mobile and it failed to take share in market even .000001 %. Now you will not find any device with this thing coz dust make it weak to sense and if I am not wrong just recall the 70's and 80's radio transisters
Decrease sensitivity?
Scroll wheel is perfect thing, but I experience same issues as mentioned above. I think that if possible to decrease it's sensitivity (maybe registry value or some more dirty software hack) will make it more precise and without counter movements (up instead of down or moving during push).
My opinion is that scroll wheel is order of magnitude better way of control than sliding with fingers over screen (iPhone is spreading this stupidity all over and designers are blindly copying that).
So, anyone that is capable of decreasing Hermes scroll wheel sensitivity?
My problem with the scroll wheel is that in a program or settings list, it scrolls up and down but jumps and doesn't go across first, then down.
Pro's:
- screen (size, sensitivity, resolution)
- fast processor + huge storage memory
- Youtube playback (only use WiFi). Very good quality, only few occasional frame rate issues
- very good phone quality (audio)
- can mostly be operated by finger, although sometimes you do need the stylus. To me that's no problem.
- format (seems big, but fits perfectly it in your jeans' pocket)
So/so:
- Opera. At times I like it, other times I don't. Maybe I just need to get used to it...
- HTC keyboard. It works, but could be improved.
- Camera is OK, but not spectacular.
- no D-pad, although I have barely missed it so far
Cons:
- Soft reset button is behind back cover. Haven't had the need to use it yet but I am afraid this may become annoying
- LED in On/off button looks stylish, but now I have to look closely on top of my device, rather than to get a quick glance from a distance to see if I missed any phone calls or messages
- Device isn't entirely 'flat on the back' because of camera, which causes some instability while operating it lying on a table
- Virtual buttons; didn't find a way yet to assign different functions
- Not all software works (eg. HiCalc). But this will only be a matter of time
Haven't tested yet:
- movie playback
- MP3 playback
- GPS
Conclusion: so far I am pretty happy with the HD. Ofcourse it could be improved. But that counts for all devices out there...
Hah... This is EXACTLY how I view the HD... nice sum-up Apart from Opera, I do like it, even when it's a little sluggish at times, but mainly because it's on the HD i like it, the huge screen makes most of the difference.
For the keyboard I use TouchPal. Google it. Love it.
The camera is GOOD in good lighting conditions but VERY VERY bad in poor lighting, so yeah, so-so average.
Oh, I regard Audio playback as so-so, video playback as PRO despite what a lot of other people think (so-so). My movies play like a breeze and it's all super sharp thanks to the screen (use CorePlayer).
GPS is also a PRO... I used to own the Diamond (which also did an OK job at it) and I don't know what they improved but they did, I easily get 8-12 or even more connections in Google Maps almost instantly. No inherent GPS lag anymore either. I confirmed it was there on my diamond and confirmed it wasn't there anymore on the HD. Except in Google Maps, there is a slight delay, but that has been commonly agreed upon as an issue in GM and not in the HD.
For the soft reset.....
You can either just power down the device (press and hold power button) and then power back on. It's the same as a soft reset.
or...
I use PHM power toys (they are free) and once installed you get a soft reset program icon. Stick that in the program section of touchflo and no need to take the back off
donzx6 said:
You can either just power down the device (press and hold power button) and then power back on. It's the same as a soft reset.
or...
I use PHM power toys (they are free) and once installed you get a soft reset program icon. Stick that in the program section of touchflo and no need to take the back off
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Er... if the phone freezes, then the power button doesn't work - so you need to hit the soft reset button.
I'd like to be able to turn off/change the function of the volume buttons - too easy to accidently press them - and they are very sensitive. When you want to change the volume they seem very nice, tactile and smooth, but they're just too sensitive when you don't...
donzx6 said:
You can either just power down the device (press and hold power button) and then power back on. It's the same as a soft reset.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm the guy who sand-papered the faceted back of his diamond, so for me - drilling a small hole in the back cover to uncover the soft reset button would also be an option.
Thats a good point monkeyboy....
....I'll get me coat
I have used the GPS with TomTom 7 and works like a dream.
Tip: Use Quick GPS to download data first - last for 6 days.
I migrated from Trinity to this phone and have never looked back apart
from the camera - is there a way to stop the 3 second delay and take instant photos without autofocus on -perhaps a reg hack?
Hawk
I have used the GPS with TomTom 7 and works like a dream.
Tip: Use Quick GPS to download data first - last for 6 days.
I migrated from Trinity to this phone and have never looked back apart
from the camera - is there a way to stop the 3 second delay and take instant photos without autofocus on -perhaps a reg hack?
Hawk
thats the funny lol
losdrivare said:
I'm the guy who sand-papered the faceted back of his diamond, so for me - drilling a small hole in the back cover to uncover the soft reset button would also be an option.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i cant believ you would actualy do that mate thats realy funny but if you did that wont that cause dust to go into your device and cause damage and how would you sell it of
Hah I still can't believe you sandpaper the back of the Diamond roflmao
But of course he takes the cover off before drilling a hole into it, makes sense don't it
well I am on day two .. its an up and down relationship. One thing doesn't work .. find a how to sort it .. another thing comes up. I wouldn't say that is a phone for the masses.
Day 2 for me and so far:
Pros:
The screen is amazing for ebook reading. Much bigger, clearer & sharper than my Prophet.
I didn't actually realise there was a radio, but it works really well.
The Teeter game is amusing and fun to show off with.
The GPS is very accurate and, because I walk/get the bus, it doesn't need huge amounts of maps, so data's not too bad.
Cons:
TouchFLO has gone. It was too slow for me (no nice run-finger-along-to-scroll)...
No D-pad meant I had to rebind the volume keys to up/down - they work fine now.
The Opera browser doesn't always register my clicks on the links.
I'm very happy with it so far. It does everything I need (which is simple - phone, ebooks, music player!) and does it well with extras. Husband doesn't like it because he likes physical keyboards, but hey!
Xarra said:
... Husband doesn't like it because he likes physical keyboards, but hey!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Take it that goes under the 'Pros' heading then
Day 3 for me too, so I thought I'd share
Pros
blimey - where to start?!
This is my first WM device (see Cons), so pretty much everything is a bonus - but stand out moments have been:
YouTube on the move - I'm not a huge YouTube fan (or at least I wasn't), but I can now while away my time whilst taking a coffee / fag break from work. Beats picking up a book and reading 3 pages before having to put it down.
GoogleMaps. No huge use for me as satnav (got that built into the car), but lots of fun already showing it off to mates LOL
Lots of techy tweaking to be done (yes, I am a Geek at heart...)
Onbviously at lots of this is down to the size and quality of the screen - the main reason that this is my first WM device was being put off by trying to browse etc on a screen the size of a large stamp - the HD size (for me) is about the best compromise - big enough to read, small enough to fit in the pocket.
Cons
becuase it is my first WM device, I'm still trying to desperately get my head around it all!
Getting there though
Congrats on your HD!
Half my friends group has the iPhone, the rest, well, something else. Then I got my HD and lots of them ordered it too, so now it's 4 HD's My father and brother both got the Diamond, and at work many of my colleagues have some version of HTC phone ranging from the TyTNII to the Touch Pro... These things pop up everywhere...
im not sure if this is a widespread issue most most of us. as we are all using SHIELD for different forms of entertainment. but i have noticed that with running just about any game designed for digital input, the D-pad is almost useless.
let me explain:
when playing say, Super Mario World. 90% of the time you're always holding "right" on the D-pad because thats the direction of game play. but for some reason you have to REALLY try to only push on the right input of the D-pad. reason being the sensitivity of the D-pad is so strong the if you ever so slightly start to push "down" even in this slightest, Mario will duck and stop running... its sooo f&%$*ng annoying!
this problem is not limited to this game alone, obviously. but to test to see if i was over reacting i popped in the SNES cart in my SNES console (along with many other titles) and had no issues whatsoever with controls on my SNES controller.
then even to run more "tests" to see if i was going crazy i had my brother (also a "old school" gamer) try out my his favorite game Contra. for test purity i never mentioned my thoughts on the D-pad to him, but after 3min of playing he looked at me a said "is there any way you can adjust the sensitivity of the D-pad? on this thing?"
i even had my Mom try out her fav, Tetris and her thoughts were similar... input errors....
so i ether have a unit that has some sort of defect and im completely alone here on this forum? or maybe there are a few more of you out there with this same problem.
well i might just maybe have a solution...
here is the PCB for the shield:
here is the PCB of a SNES controller: (my favorite controller )
here is the mod im planing:
so for clarification, the RED is where i plan to paint over or shave down the conductive contact materal on the PCB. this should in theory make the contact area act more like the D-pad us old school gamers are familiar with. so instead of the contacts kind of "weaving" its more like the 1/2 circles contact patch seen on the button side of the PCB.
i feel this may be a pretty easy mod for most of us and there is already a handy teardown via ifixit:
http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nvidia+Shield+Teardown/16212/1
thought?
suggestions?
Sounds interesting.
I'd suggest starting with something non-permanent like cutting a piece of tape to size and using that first to make sure it does what you expect.
Also take a look at the d-pad contacts and make sure that those are large enough to still complete the circuit.
I don't actually own a shield but had the same issue with the xbox 360 controller and fighting games. Let us know if it actually works.
masterfud said:
Sounds interesting.
I'd suggest starting with something non-permanent like cutting a piece of tape to size and using that first to make sure it does what you expect.
Also take a look at the d-pad contacts and make sure that those are large enough to still complete the circuit.
I don't actually own a shield but had the same issue with the xbox 360 controller and fighting games. Let us know if it actually works.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
good points. the D-pad does move (or skate?) from side to side about 1/8-1/4" inside the housing. so id need to make sure the D-pad contact pad will still hit both sides of the PCB contacts at the furthest positions to complete the circuit.
i was thinking the paint might be better for the short term test, as tape might "smudge" out of the way during a heated game like streetfighter?
if the idea works id prob scrape away the unwanted conductive material (the lines marked in red) with a hobby knife for a more durable and permanent solution.
only thing im worried about is the pressure needed for circuit closing will change from having the contacts painted (raised up surface) vs taking down the unwanted material (lowered surface) when referenced to the actual contact material we are actually trying to hit. not sure if that is easy to explain without pictures.
Don't do it. Electronics hobbyist here.
Those buttons are a digital 0 or 1. No sensitivity there. The rubber mat underneath the keys simply contacts against both sets of PCB contacts to connect them. No resistance or capacitance readings occur, its either connected or not connected. Shaving the contacts probably wont change that very much. You want to inhibit the contact between PCB and rubber mat from occuring without increased force which your proposed hack wont do to a great extent.
The problem would be purely mechanical in nature, ie the exact way the buttons being mounted perhaps allowing for unintended wobble and as a result perhaps if you shift your thumb forwards and back a bit the rubber mats for the up and down arrows may well come into contact.
A better solution would be to adjust the height between the PCB and the rubber mat, not a simple task. Perhaps the underside of the buttons have some sort of plastic nub which if filed down a tiny amount might work and require a harder press to force the mat down, not sure. Not reversible though.
Or a very thing piece of sponge with 4 holes cut aligning with the PCB contact area (but ever so slightly smaller) would cause a greater force to be required on the buttons while still allowing the buttons to contact. I would sketch what I mean but my skills with drawing on a PC are non existent and I have neither a scanner or camera right now.
I would actually lean towards experimenting with the sponge method, actually inspired by me working my way through a tin of biscuits while playing Xbox one morning and getting crumbs in the controller, started to require alot more force on the A button to get it to work. Open the controller and biscuit crumbs were everywhere preventing the buttons moving properly. Sponge should have the same effect but reversibly and cheaply. Namely, take a kitchen sponge and cut it up a bit, 2mm thick sections perhaps. Kitchen sponges are cheap anyway, pretty sure I saw a 10 pack in a £1 store once, experiment to your hearts desire.
---------- Post added at 07:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:39 PM ----------
Come to think of it. If you put paint on the area in between the contacts then that may work.
Your not going to be able to reliably fix this without altering the feel of the buttons sadly. I think they should have gone for tactile switches on the DPad, they are generally perfect for this.
It is the DPad skate which I believe is causing this.
less permanent if you want to try it is white glue spread with a toothpick. you can wipe that off carefully with a bit of alcohol or water.
SixSixSevenSeven said:
Don't do it. Electronics hobbyist here.
Those buttons are a digital 0 or 1. No sensitivity there. The rubber mat underneath the keys simply contacts against both sets of PCB contacts to connect them. No resistance or capacitance readings occur, its either connected or not connected. Shaving the contacts probably wont change that very much. You want to inhibit the contact between PCB and rubber mat from occuring without increased force which your proposed hack wont do to a great extent.
The problem would be purely mechanical in nature, ie the exact way the buttons being mounted perhaps allowing for unintended wobble and as a result perhaps if you shift your thumb forwards and back a bit the rubber mats for the up and down arrows may well come into contact.
A better solution would be to adjust the height between the PCB and the rubber mat, not a simple task. Perhaps the underside of the buttons have some sort of plastic nub which if filed down a tiny amount might work and require a harder press to force the mat down, not sure. Not reversible though.
Or a very thing piece of sponge with 4 holes cut aligning with the PCB contact area (but ever so slightly smaller) would cause a greater force to be required on the buttons while still allowing the buttons to contact. I would sketch what I mean but my skills with drawing on a PC are non existent and I have neither a scanner or camera right now.
I would actually lean towards experimenting with the sponge method, actually inspired by me working my way through a tin of biscuits while playing Xbox one morning and getting crumbs in the controller, started to require alot more force on the A button to get it to work. Open the controller and biscuit crumbs were everywhere preventing the buttons moving properly. Sponge should have the same effect but reversibly and cheaply. Namely, take a kitchen sponge and cut it up a bit, 2mm thick sections perhaps. Kitchen sponges are cheap anyway, pretty sure I saw a 10 pack in a £1 store once, experiment to your hearts desire.
---------- Post added at 07:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:39 PM ----------
Come to think of it. If you put paint on the area in between the contacts then that may work.
Your not going to be able to reliably fix this without altering the feel of the buttons sadly. I think they should have gone for tactile switches on the DPad, they are generally perfect for this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thank you as well.
i am aware this is a "on / off" situation. but the weaving of the PCB contact material makes for a very light press to be needed for circut closing. (my sensitivity problem)
the "sponge method" is also something i thought about. i wanted to source some other D-pads from other controllers to try this but im not sure how a modded one would hold up to button mashing in the long run. so it would basically have to be almost identical dimensions to work.
ive been trying to source SHILED parts to experiment with. but the guy i was speaking with has family obligations tying him up right now. so...
i do really like the feel of the controller. they did a awesome job. but i just wish the PCB contact layout was identical to the NES/SNES controllers. as in with the a, b, x, y buttons being the more sensitive (weaved) contacts and the D-pad being the less sensitive 1/2 circle style once.
i wish i was just being picky here but i just flat out cant play any retro games in the current state. 15 years of muscle memory just doesn't go away.
SixSixSevenSeven said:
It is the DPad skate which I believe is causing this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i agree. its a lot of movement...
i can center the D-pad and game play is much better for a few seconds till it moves again. in fairness, every D-pad (SNES, SEGA, Etc) does skate a little (except for PSX). the SHIELD is by far the one with the most movement.
for ppl not understanding what we mean by the D-pad "skate" here is a very crappy rez vid:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LYj5-L02fiI&feature=youtu.be&noredirect=1
s0me guy said:
i agree. its a lot of movement...
i can center the D-pad and game play is much better for a few seconds till it moves again. in fairness, every D-pad (SNES, SEGA, Etc) does skate a little (except for PSX). the SHIELD is by far the one with the most movement.
for ppl not understanding what we mean by the D-pad "skate" here is a very crappy rez vid:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LYj5-L02fiI&feature=youtu.be&noredirect=1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My PSP has quite a bit of DPad skate. But the centre point of the Dpad does seem to stay centred, it just seems to rotate on the spot if you know what I mean. It skates but it remains perfectly usable.
to stop the skate we could find (make?) rubber grommets to fit around the mounting holes for the screwdowns (yellow circles are the tips). they would act as sleeves or bumpers keeping the plastic D-pad assembly centered.
i have no idea where i would even look for a part like this... McMaster? lol
http://www.mcmaster.com/#rubber-bumper-spacers/=o6yfz8
That centre nub between the 4 screws. They should have made that larger or the hole in the rubber piece smaller so that they match size better. I reckon that the cause of the skate is that nub.
just realized i should probably stop brainstorming using the images from ifixit as a reference.
they could have quite possibly used a different pre production unit and it might be nothing like the final public retail units. i know there were a few different revisions along the way (D-pad included).
guess ill have to try to find time to tear this down over the weekend. i've been hesitating up until this point mostly because our 1mth old baby requires a lot of attention ( who would have thought? ).
id just hate to have this thing half taken apart get sidetracked and forget were i was... lol
i can easily see this mod taking up an entire saturday to get 100% working without a newborn.
oh yeah, this D-pad is really really ****ty...
delete..
MUCH BETTER! :victory:
now to fix the skate issue!
wow... it feels much better? so you DID it. nice! :good::laugh:
I want to try in once, too
david419kr said:
wow... it feels much better? so you DID it. nice! :good::laugh:
I want to try in once, too
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yea now its much more like the other D-pads im used to. (NES, SNES, N64, PSx, PS2, Gameboy, NDSlite)
i swapped the button diaphragms also. as the A B X Y button side Diaphragm has a small hold in the middle of it and it tends to minimise the "skate" issue.
BEFORE
AFTER
BEFORE
AFTER
all in all id say these mods made the D-Pad 100x better, but its still not perfect. i still make input errors all the time. but its nowhere near as bad as it was. the main issue thats still present is that the D-pad is acting like a rocker more than a switch. so when you press dead center on the "right" arrow on the D-pad the diaphragm on the "right" contact is pressed down 100% and the "up" & "down" contacts are pressed 75% down (almost touching but not making contact). but... it you ever so slightly press off of dead center on any arrow the contacts next to the one you're pressing end up touching. then your input becomes a 45deg. input instead of a 90deg one.
i honestly don't know how to fix this without designing a different bottom half of the D-pad assembly. my current idea is to take a D-pad from a Donor SNES controller (its dimensions are pretty close on the bottom side), grind off the "arrow pad" and attach the remaining bottom portion to the SHIELD's "arrow pad". since the SNES bottom part has more of a Dome shape than a flat one like the SHIELD it will have more bias to the direction your inputting and less Bias to the directions on either side of that direction.
descriptive pic coming soon
my main issues is right now everything i do is a MAJOR commitment because i have no access to Extra SHILED parts. if i mess up... well thats it... so...
hopefully the guy i was talking to about getting extra parts will get back to me soon. i also was talking with a guy who has a 3D printer that may be able to print the modded D-pad for us after its complete. :fingers-crossed:
also i might add that i used 2000grit sand paper to rough up the surfaces on the D-pad & buttons. the glossy-ness of them got very slippery after a few minutes of gaming as the finger oils build up.
they have WAY MORE grip now and the matte finish is much more appealing over the Gloss finish. :victory:
this has been already kind of talked about in a few other threads with users complaining of "screws falling out" but i would also would like to stress to anyone disassembling their SHIELD to be very very VERY careful with the threads. it seems about half my screws were slightly over tightened from the factory and i have some slight stripping going on.
the build up of plastic dust on the one screw in this pic is not something you want to see. as the less plastic there is in the threads, means the less "meat" the screw can grab on to. in-turn that means the less torque can be applied to fasten the 2 parts which can lead to movement and then internal ware... i may have to find slightly bigger screws then drill and tap all the holes...
Makes you wonder how this got past QA testing. I also have the same problem with a newly purchased Shield and it makes emulators difficult to use (unless you map stuff to the analog stick)
georaldc said:
Makes you wonder how this got past QA testing. I also have the same problem with a newly purchased Shield and it makes emulators difficult to use (unless you map stuff to the analog stick)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
emulators were probably not something they were heavily focused on and all the testers probably were more worried about "feel" than function. IMO if you are able to think about the controller during game play, its not made right.
i hate to sound like a whiny brat or something here but if i wanted a sub par experience i would have stuck a $40 Moga controller on my Galaxy S3 or somthing. i mean isn't the point of SHIELD to be a premium product for a Niche market? and isnt the controllers function the most important part of the "function" of SHIELD? sure nice screens and speakers are great and a part of the experience... but what does it matter if you cant play the the thing. you may as well use a GameKlip and android Phone.
its like driving a highend sports car on all season tires. all kinds of awesome engineering and power thats just frustrating to drive cuz you cant keep the thing on the road.
I noticed the Android radio section is kinda small so thought I would provide some feedback with the various ones I've used. I've had two Panlelo and two Atoto radios.
The Panlelo radios I used were basically trash. Well the first one was ok, but it had a long boot. And started up with some strange bluetooth and gps error messages. I did like it at the time and it wasn't until I purchased Atoto that I realized what I was missig.. Being the first Android radio I used I had nothing to compare it to. I bought a different Panlelo for my wife because she wanted a volume knob. That's the only thing nice about it. The SD card slot was broken, the touch was terrible especially at the top and bottom. it wouldn't auto connect to my hotspot, it wouldn't remember my car launcher pro as the default launcher. Was just bad. I had also purchased a camera from them and the power trigger wire had a break in it somewhere. I've come to learn Panlelo does not make quality products. Oh yeah the first Panlelo had the side buttons stop working after a few months! And I always had obd2 connection issues.
The two Atoto radios I've had are amazing! The A6 premium I used for a year and then moved it to my wife's car. It has held up amazing and everything is layed out so much better than Pablelo. I never have issues with it. The obd2 always connects. I recently got the A6 pro with gestures and it's even better, though it's also more expensive. Aside from the gestures, the built in amp is noticeabley better. I can crank it much louder before distorting. It will actually support 2 ohm speakers although the kickers I use are 4 ohm with pretty high sensitivity (I think around 90) so they get pretty loud without an extra amp. The screen is also more vivid, better blacks, viewing angles and brighter. The resolution is the same as the first A6 but It definitely looks better. I don't use the provided screen protectors, and they don't seem necessary. The other A6 has no scratches after a year.
The gestures are pretty cool, although I've found the only two that work without problems are rotating your fingers/hand clockwise and counter clockwise. I never get false positives and it always registers when I use it. I first used it for volume up and down, but I've since used them as shortcuts for navigation and front camera. I changed the navigation app to torque so it pulls torque up instead. And front camera, I use for parking my big f250. Volume controls, home button and next are all configured on my steering wheel.
I used to use to wave your hand (defualt for that is mute) but I found it was triggering just driving around. Im hoping an update will make this more reliable. The other ones, hand forward and hand backward from sensor also trigger false. Umm besides that the layout is really good, with home, back and recents on the bottom left close to driver. (Another thing Panlelo got wrong by putting these on the top right)
Hotspot auto connects. Ohhh yeah and one thing I recently discovered! You can share Google maps navigation via Bluetooth. I'm still trying to think of a more seem less integration (wish it had NFC). But Bluetooth works well. Basically start your navigation from your phone, hit the share button, choose Bluetooth > Bluetooth2> accept the file transfer from Atoto it will then show where it was downloaded but just open maps and it will be there. It's actually pretty easy and works better than trying to type an address in. Especially when a lot of times someone has already texted you the address to your phone.
I'm still hoping for an easier way, I wish I could just out the phone close to the radio and beam it over. Or if there was a good way to get texts on the radio... I know there are Android messaging apps that sync, but I prefer the stock messaging app. Anyway, that's my experiences with Android radios. I like to use carlauncher pro.
Edit: added a couple more pics, one to show the parking camera
I can't make up my mind
Thanks for the right up. I may order the Pro unit minus the gesture feature. What brand of cables did you use on the install?