im not sure if this is a widespread issue most most of us. as we are all using SHIELD for different forms of entertainment. but i have noticed that with running just about any game designed for digital input, the D-pad is almost useless.
let me explain:
when playing say, Super Mario World. 90% of the time you're always holding "right" on the D-pad because thats the direction of game play. but for some reason you have to REALLY try to only push on the right input of the D-pad. reason being the sensitivity of the D-pad is so strong the if you ever so slightly start to push "down" even in this slightest, Mario will duck and stop running... its sooo f&%$*ng annoying!
this problem is not limited to this game alone, obviously. but to test to see if i was over reacting i popped in the SNES cart in my SNES console (along with many other titles) and had no issues whatsoever with controls on my SNES controller.
then even to run more "tests" to see if i was going crazy i had my brother (also a "old school" gamer) try out my his favorite game Contra. for test purity i never mentioned my thoughts on the D-pad to him, but after 3min of playing he looked at me a said "is there any way you can adjust the sensitivity of the D-pad? on this thing?"
i even had my Mom try out her fav, Tetris and her thoughts were similar... input errors....
so i ether have a unit that has some sort of defect and im completely alone here on this forum? or maybe there are a few more of you out there with this same problem.
well i might just maybe have a solution...
here is the PCB for the shield:
here is the PCB of a SNES controller: (my favorite controller )
here is the mod im planing:
so for clarification, the RED is where i plan to paint over or shave down the conductive contact materal on the PCB. this should in theory make the contact area act more like the D-pad us old school gamers are familiar with. so instead of the contacts kind of "weaving" its more like the 1/2 circles contact patch seen on the button side of the PCB.
i feel this may be a pretty easy mod for most of us and there is already a handy teardown via ifixit:
http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nvidia+Shield+Teardown/16212/1
thought?
suggestions?
Sounds interesting.
I'd suggest starting with something non-permanent like cutting a piece of tape to size and using that first to make sure it does what you expect.
Also take a look at the d-pad contacts and make sure that those are large enough to still complete the circuit.
I don't actually own a shield but had the same issue with the xbox 360 controller and fighting games. Let us know if it actually works.
masterfud said:
Sounds interesting.
I'd suggest starting with something non-permanent like cutting a piece of tape to size and using that first to make sure it does what you expect.
Also take a look at the d-pad contacts and make sure that those are large enough to still complete the circuit.
I don't actually own a shield but had the same issue with the xbox 360 controller and fighting games. Let us know if it actually works.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
good points. the D-pad does move (or skate?) from side to side about 1/8-1/4" inside the housing. so id need to make sure the D-pad contact pad will still hit both sides of the PCB contacts at the furthest positions to complete the circuit.
i was thinking the paint might be better for the short term test, as tape might "smudge" out of the way during a heated game like streetfighter?
if the idea works id prob scrape away the unwanted conductive material (the lines marked in red) with a hobby knife for a more durable and permanent solution.
only thing im worried about is the pressure needed for circuit closing will change from having the contacts painted (raised up surface) vs taking down the unwanted material (lowered surface) when referenced to the actual contact material we are actually trying to hit. not sure if that is easy to explain without pictures.
Don't do it. Electronics hobbyist here.
Those buttons are a digital 0 or 1. No sensitivity there. The rubber mat underneath the keys simply contacts against both sets of PCB contacts to connect them. No resistance or capacitance readings occur, its either connected or not connected. Shaving the contacts probably wont change that very much. You want to inhibit the contact between PCB and rubber mat from occuring without increased force which your proposed hack wont do to a great extent.
The problem would be purely mechanical in nature, ie the exact way the buttons being mounted perhaps allowing for unintended wobble and as a result perhaps if you shift your thumb forwards and back a bit the rubber mats for the up and down arrows may well come into contact.
A better solution would be to adjust the height between the PCB and the rubber mat, not a simple task. Perhaps the underside of the buttons have some sort of plastic nub which if filed down a tiny amount might work and require a harder press to force the mat down, not sure. Not reversible though.
Or a very thing piece of sponge with 4 holes cut aligning with the PCB contact area (but ever so slightly smaller) would cause a greater force to be required on the buttons while still allowing the buttons to contact. I would sketch what I mean but my skills with drawing on a PC are non existent and I have neither a scanner or camera right now.
I would actually lean towards experimenting with the sponge method, actually inspired by me working my way through a tin of biscuits while playing Xbox one morning and getting crumbs in the controller, started to require alot more force on the A button to get it to work. Open the controller and biscuit crumbs were everywhere preventing the buttons moving properly. Sponge should have the same effect but reversibly and cheaply. Namely, take a kitchen sponge and cut it up a bit, 2mm thick sections perhaps. Kitchen sponges are cheap anyway, pretty sure I saw a 10 pack in a £1 store once, experiment to your hearts desire.
---------- Post added at 07:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:39 PM ----------
Come to think of it. If you put paint on the area in between the contacts then that may work.
Your not going to be able to reliably fix this without altering the feel of the buttons sadly. I think they should have gone for tactile switches on the DPad, they are generally perfect for this.
It is the DPad skate which I believe is causing this.
less permanent if you want to try it is white glue spread with a toothpick. you can wipe that off carefully with a bit of alcohol or water.
SixSixSevenSeven said:
Don't do it. Electronics hobbyist here.
Those buttons are a digital 0 or 1. No sensitivity there. The rubber mat underneath the keys simply contacts against both sets of PCB contacts to connect them. No resistance or capacitance readings occur, its either connected or not connected. Shaving the contacts probably wont change that very much. You want to inhibit the contact between PCB and rubber mat from occuring without increased force which your proposed hack wont do to a great extent.
The problem would be purely mechanical in nature, ie the exact way the buttons being mounted perhaps allowing for unintended wobble and as a result perhaps if you shift your thumb forwards and back a bit the rubber mats for the up and down arrows may well come into contact.
A better solution would be to adjust the height between the PCB and the rubber mat, not a simple task. Perhaps the underside of the buttons have some sort of plastic nub which if filed down a tiny amount might work and require a harder press to force the mat down, not sure. Not reversible though.
Or a very thing piece of sponge with 4 holes cut aligning with the PCB contact area (but ever so slightly smaller) would cause a greater force to be required on the buttons while still allowing the buttons to contact. I would sketch what I mean but my skills with drawing on a PC are non existent and I have neither a scanner or camera right now.
I would actually lean towards experimenting with the sponge method, actually inspired by me working my way through a tin of biscuits while playing Xbox one morning and getting crumbs in the controller, started to require alot more force on the A button to get it to work. Open the controller and biscuit crumbs were everywhere preventing the buttons moving properly. Sponge should have the same effect but reversibly and cheaply. Namely, take a kitchen sponge and cut it up a bit, 2mm thick sections perhaps. Kitchen sponges are cheap anyway, pretty sure I saw a 10 pack in a £1 store once, experiment to your hearts desire.
---------- Post added at 07:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:39 PM ----------
Come to think of it. If you put paint on the area in between the contacts then that may work.
Your not going to be able to reliably fix this without altering the feel of the buttons sadly. I think they should have gone for tactile switches on the DPad, they are generally perfect for this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thank you as well.
i am aware this is a "on / off" situation. but the weaving of the PCB contact material makes for a very light press to be needed for circut closing. (my sensitivity problem)
the "sponge method" is also something i thought about. i wanted to source some other D-pads from other controllers to try this but im not sure how a modded one would hold up to button mashing in the long run. so it would basically have to be almost identical dimensions to work.
ive been trying to source SHILED parts to experiment with. but the guy i was speaking with has family obligations tying him up right now. so...
i do really like the feel of the controller. they did a awesome job. but i just wish the PCB contact layout was identical to the NES/SNES controllers. as in with the a, b, x, y buttons being the more sensitive (weaved) contacts and the D-pad being the less sensitive 1/2 circle style once.
i wish i was just being picky here but i just flat out cant play any retro games in the current state. 15 years of muscle memory just doesn't go away.
SixSixSevenSeven said:
It is the DPad skate which I believe is causing this.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i agree. its a lot of movement...
i can center the D-pad and game play is much better for a few seconds till it moves again. in fairness, every D-pad (SNES, SEGA, Etc) does skate a little (except for PSX). the SHIELD is by far the one with the most movement.
for ppl not understanding what we mean by the D-pad "skate" here is a very crappy rez vid:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LYj5-L02fiI&feature=youtu.be&noredirect=1
s0me guy said:
i agree. its a lot of movement...
i can center the D-pad and game play is much better for a few seconds till it moves again. in fairness, every D-pad (SNES, SEGA, Etc) does skate a little (except for PSX). the SHIELD is by far the one with the most movement.
for ppl not understanding what we mean by the D-pad "skate" here is a very crappy rez vid:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LYj5-L02fiI&feature=youtu.be&noredirect=1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My PSP has quite a bit of DPad skate. But the centre point of the Dpad does seem to stay centred, it just seems to rotate on the spot if you know what I mean. It skates but it remains perfectly usable.
to stop the skate we could find (make?) rubber grommets to fit around the mounting holes for the screwdowns (yellow circles are the tips). they would act as sleeves or bumpers keeping the plastic D-pad assembly centered.
i have no idea where i would even look for a part like this... McMaster? lol
http://www.mcmaster.com/#rubber-bumper-spacers/=o6yfz8
That centre nub between the 4 screws. They should have made that larger or the hole in the rubber piece smaller so that they match size better. I reckon that the cause of the skate is that nub.
just realized i should probably stop brainstorming using the images from ifixit as a reference.
they could have quite possibly used a different pre production unit and it might be nothing like the final public retail units. i know there were a few different revisions along the way (D-pad included).
guess ill have to try to find time to tear this down over the weekend. i've been hesitating up until this point mostly because our 1mth old baby requires a lot of attention ( who would have thought? ).
id just hate to have this thing half taken apart get sidetracked and forget were i was... lol
i can easily see this mod taking up an entire saturday to get 100% working without a newborn.
oh yeah, this D-pad is really really ****ty...
delete..
MUCH BETTER! :victory:
now to fix the skate issue!
wow... it feels much better? so you DID it. nice! :good::laugh:
I want to try in once, too
david419kr said:
wow... it feels much better? so you DID it. nice! :good::laugh:
I want to try in once, too
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yea now its much more like the other D-pads im used to. (NES, SNES, N64, PSx, PS2, Gameboy, NDSlite)
i swapped the button diaphragms also. as the A B X Y button side Diaphragm has a small hold in the middle of it and it tends to minimise the "skate" issue.
BEFORE
AFTER
BEFORE
AFTER
all in all id say these mods made the D-Pad 100x better, but its still not perfect. i still make input errors all the time. but its nowhere near as bad as it was. the main issue thats still present is that the D-pad is acting like a rocker more than a switch. so when you press dead center on the "right" arrow on the D-pad the diaphragm on the "right" contact is pressed down 100% and the "up" & "down" contacts are pressed 75% down (almost touching but not making contact). but... it you ever so slightly press off of dead center on any arrow the contacts next to the one you're pressing end up touching. then your input becomes a 45deg. input instead of a 90deg one.
i honestly don't know how to fix this without designing a different bottom half of the D-pad assembly. my current idea is to take a D-pad from a Donor SNES controller (its dimensions are pretty close on the bottom side), grind off the "arrow pad" and attach the remaining bottom portion to the SHIELD's "arrow pad". since the SNES bottom part has more of a Dome shape than a flat one like the SHIELD it will have more bias to the direction your inputting and less Bias to the directions on either side of that direction.
descriptive pic coming soon
my main issues is right now everything i do is a MAJOR commitment because i have no access to Extra SHILED parts. if i mess up... well thats it... so...
hopefully the guy i was talking to about getting extra parts will get back to me soon. i also was talking with a guy who has a 3D printer that may be able to print the modded D-pad for us after its complete. :fingers-crossed:
also i might add that i used 2000grit sand paper to rough up the surfaces on the D-pad & buttons. the glossy-ness of them got very slippery after a few minutes of gaming as the finger oils build up.
they have WAY MORE grip now and the matte finish is much more appealing over the Gloss finish. :victory:
this has been already kind of talked about in a few other threads with users complaining of "screws falling out" but i would also would like to stress to anyone disassembling their SHIELD to be very very VERY careful with the threads. it seems about half my screws were slightly over tightened from the factory and i have some slight stripping going on.
the build up of plastic dust on the one screw in this pic is not something you want to see. as the less plastic there is in the threads, means the less "meat" the screw can grab on to. in-turn that means the less torque can be applied to fasten the 2 parts which can lead to movement and then internal ware... i may have to find slightly bigger screws then drill and tap all the holes...
Makes you wonder how this got past QA testing. I also have the same problem with a newly purchased Shield and it makes emulators difficult to use (unless you map stuff to the analog stick)
georaldc said:
Makes you wonder how this got past QA testing. I also have the same problem with a newly purchased Shield and it makes emulators difficult to use (unless you map stuff to the analog stick)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
emulators were probably not something they were heavily focused on and all the testers probably were more worried about "feel" than function. IMO if you are able to think about the controller during game play, its not made right.
i hate to sound like a whiny brat or something here but if i wanted a sub par experience i would have stuck a $40 Moga controller on my Galaxy S3 or somthing. i mean isn't the point of SHIELD to be a premium product for a Niche market? and isnt the controllers function the most important part of the "function" of SHIELD? sure nice screens and speakers are great and a part of the experience... but what does it matter if you cant play the the thing. you may as well use a GameKlip and android Phone.
its like driving a highend sports car on all season tires. all kinds of awesome engineering and power thats just frustrating to drive cuz you cant keep the thing on the road.
Related
Keyboard cleaning
Anybody tried to clean the keyboard thoroughly?
More and more keys starting to react badly on presses (e.g. no reaction first time.. but my pressing the key again a bit harder it does work).
Looks like there has gotten some dirt underneath.
Advice is appreciated!
Arnie
I take the hose of the shop vac to my keyboard, and around the outer edges of the screen and keys every now and then, making sure not to scuff the device, then hit it all with canned air, no problems as of yet.
Im on this thing 24/7, so it see's some major useage, infact half of my keys are missing paint, and one has a chipped edge, from my thumbnails, but no dirt buildup, which I had been expecting, this house is big time dusty around here.
If anyone does use either of these methods for cleaning, I advise to be cautious around the mic and speakers, I imagine direct strong pressures either way arent too good for them, I do blow them out a bit, but I dont hold the canned air straw right up against them.
This is pretty tame and i am probably just a retard for not figuring this out early, but i thought id share it with you.
You know the annoying edges of the screen that seem to gather so much crap and are hard to clean? I just started using the little cotton buds you clean your ears with to get to the corners and it works really well. No risk of damaging screen and gets right in under the plastic if you push down softly and twist it. cheap and easy to find too.
Also to clean the keyboard i use a little can of compressed air i got from local electronics shop, works a treat to fix any buttons that are not activating properly.
Just thought id share...
Try using a compressed air canister (gently!). I found my wife hidden under my PC's keyboard like that.
V
I don't understand it, the 8525 I have has a blank white screen. I thought the ribbon cable was bad so I ordered a new one, cost me $50, put it in, still the same problem. The motherboard itself is fine, I swapped it into another 8525 and it works with no problems, I swapped a different board into my 8525, and it has the same problem, blank white screen. I checked the LCD and everything, but I don't freakin understand it!! Anyone know what the heck is going on? It's annoying the crap out of me because I can't find the source of the problem.
Have you tried to swap the D-pad controller between those two devices?
shmilson said:
Have you tried to swap the D-pad controller between those two devices?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nope, haven't tried that....but I completely removed the dpad controller and still had the same problem.
Oh and the dpad IS working because I was able to hard reset the device even though I can't see anything....
Is you're void sticker gone? If not I'd say get AT&T to replace it, that's what I did when I had that problem.
Check our USB port and see if it's shorting anything? That's what happened to me. I go the white screen every I plugged in anything into the USB port.
Dpad
After loosing some screws, the problem got better, but still I have some white screens here and there. The d-pad works intermittently. When on a whitescreen, turning the device of, holding the middle D-pad key (or up together sometimes) and turning it on brings back the screen. That's why I'm suspicious about the d-pad controller. In the meantime I'm waiting for a replacement from cnn.cn and will post my results.
shmilson said:
After loosing some screws, the problem got better, but still I have some white screens here and there. The d-pad works intermittently. When on a whitescreen, turning the device of, holding the middle D-pad key (or up together sometimes) and turning it on brings back the screen. That's why I'm suspicious about the d-pad controller. In the meantime I'm waiting for a replacement from cnn.cn and will post my results.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I notice that the service manual makes a specific point of noting the d-pad connector must be inserted precisely and with no angle. It is a very small connector and has two tiny screws. It does seem this connection is delicate and might become loose if keys on the d-pad are firmly pressed.
Mike
mikechannon said:
I notice that the service manual makes a specific point of noting the d-pad connector must be inserted precisely and with no angle. It is a very small connector and has two tiny screws. It does seem this connection is delicate and might become loose if keys on the d-pad are firmly pressed.
Mike
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did notice it too. After a lot of tries, I got to the optimum on my phone (after the whitescreens started -- probably from a fall), giving a slight torque to the screws but not too much. It's much better then before, but still.. The d-pad pressing actually "fixes" the problem, so I guess that the controller is bad or when I apply some pressure I "fix" this. It's completely random and may be related to temperature (after taking battery out for a long time, problem tends to be less often). In a few days when my controller arrives I'll make sure I screw the connector well and hoping for the best.
When I look at the xilinx(if I remember it right) fpga circuit closely there is a small gap between 2 corners and circuit board. It might be the case that the solderballs under the chip arent soldered that well and when you use D-pad the circuit board bends a bit and in a time the bad solderballs loose connection. The bad thing is that you cant check the solderballs at home (it requires x-ray inspection if you want to keep it in one piece).
FIXED IT!
I fixed it! Well, it's a bit soon to tell it'll keep like that, but after ordering a new d-pad controller from cnn.cn, and taking extra care on installing it as the technical manual says (keeping 90 degrees angle on connection to keyboard), everything is back! No more whitescreens (let's hope it stays that way), ALL buttons are back!
Hey everyone...
I'm currently working on a school project to re-design the housing of a pda.. I've decided to use the 8125 as my base. I've just recently started researching and learning about the software. I plan on upgrading to WM6, adding Touchflo, and whatever mods seem interesting. I was curious if you all had any suggestions as far as improving the overall original design. I'll be making two phones. One being a slide with a rotating screen feature, and two being a thin, non-slide, full touchscreen model similar to the HTC Touch. Any suggestions you all have would be great to work with and put into my research report. Keep in mind I can change just about every physical aspect of the phone, speakers, battery, buttons, ect... Thanks very much guys.. Looking forward to some intersting feedback..
they never did stuff like that when I was at school!
I would change the D pad because the up button has to be quite precise, maybe make it with a bit more relief.
Also would move the speakers from the side because I tend to cover them when I hold the phone (thumb covers right side, forefinger covers left) in my left hand. possibly put them on front.
I use infra red a bit and sometimes wish it was on top of the device instead of the side.
good luck with the project.
Edit: nearly forgot to say move the stylus silo from the bottom then if it goes loose (they all do) then it wont fall out as easily.
some pics would be nice when its done.
Sounds good.... Thanks you for the reply. I'll definately post photos when I finish.
I always liked the "tablet" design of the Universal...if you could make it a little less bulky. Of course I've never used that device, but it theory it seemed cool.
Well since you said that it will be using TouchFlow my first bit of advice would to be to make the screen flush with the housing. The biggest issue I have with the Wizard when it comes being finger friendly is hitting the X/ok key in the upper right corner. If the screen was flush with the casing this wouldnt be an issue.
Another thing would be to switch out the mini audio jack on the bottom with a standard headphone jack. I know that you might loose the ability to use a mic with headphones but it would be a small price to pay for the ability to use a nice set of phones without the need for an adapter sticking out the bottom. Not to mention that Bluetooth would take care of the need for a headphone with mic.
I read in one of the tech user manuals for the Wizard that there is a 2megapixel CCD for the phone along with the stand 1.3mp. Im not sure of the validity of this, but if you can get your hands on it that might be pretty nice.
Adding a more powerful IR to the phone and placing it at the top would be a nice touch as well. Would be nice to have the TV remote function with this phone.
Im sure Ill think of some other things, and Ill post them here as well.
PS another Idea would be to use the hardware listed here... pretty cheap if you ask me. http://www.compulab.co.il/x270em/html/x270-em-datasheet.htm
Good luck.
Awsome... Thanks very much for the suggestions... I checked out the Compulab Embeded phone... However, the minimum quantity they will sell is 1000 units. It would make for a nice base though...
After owning the Touch HD for a full month I just noticed that down the middle of the screen there is something which I can best describe as an oil stain. It looks as if there is a liquid in between the glass/plastic screen and the resistive layer that lays on top of it.
The screen works normally and this "stain" can only be observed if I look at how the light reflects of it.
Any idea what happened?
Hi,
I have a small idear. The TFT-Monitor ist touching your Touchscreen. Probeply you pressed something on your HD, that the two Monitor touch each other, that is why it looks like a Water or Oil spot.
This can happen for example, if you are carrying your HD in your trouser pocket.
If you want to try to remove this spot, you have to turn with your both hand the hd, like the right hand turn with the clock and the left hand turn to the other way.
Sorry, my english is not very good for such a discribing. What I mean is like "to contort" or "to skew (up)". But you have to be very carefully. Before you start, remove the Battery
(I'll be incorporating a clearer explanation along the lines of what Dude10 was trying to say)
The effect you're seeing is IDENTICAL to what causes the colours to appear on an oil film actually!
The way the Touch HD screen works is to have the hard glass (polycarbonate plastic actually as far as I'm aware, but that's not important here!) with a squashy resistive sensor layer on the top.
This resistive layer detects touch as an increase in resistance at the spot that's compressed - be that by a finger or a stylus. Because the upper layer can be compressed, it can also be malformed by stronger than normal pressure, such as an object in a pocket. The effect can be more pronounced if your body heat warms up the screen surface making the screen "set" in position rather than spring back as it should do...
The "oil" effect is cause by the reflections of light from the outermost plastic layer and the outermost surface of the hard screen. When the gap is small enough, these reflections can interfere with each other, cancelling and re-inforcing different wavelengths depending on the thickness - hence the tapering of the screen from thinnest to thickest results in a "rainbow"
Now, why explain all this you may ask? Partly because I like science and it fascinated me in school to learn what caused that effect so wanted to share this! (And this also explains why it only presents itself when you look at the light reflections)
Anyway, more importantly, the solution to your problem is to restore the thickness of that part of the touch layer to it's original uncompressed state.
I'd firstly start trying to hold your finger flat against the top of the phone screen (on flat surface, portraint orientation, finger "left to right") then pressing resonably hard (the hard screen should protect the device - if not you're pressing too hard!) slide your finger down the screen from top to bottom trying to keep an even pressure. This should hopefully even out the surface.
Failing this, as Dude10 suggests, take the battery out and use your thumbs (holding with fingers in the battery well) to press and "smear" around the problem area.
Unfortunately, other than this I don't think there's a particular way to remove the effect totally if it doesn't work...
Obviously it's speculation given that you didn't mention how it happened in the first place, but it does sound like it got knocked or pressed by something either in bag or pocket - maybe even a fold in the pouch
Hope you manage to smooth it out!
WhO_KnOwS said:
After owning the Touch HD for a full month I just noticed that down the middle of the screen there is something which I can best describe as an oil stain.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just a long shot, but:
Sometimes a similar effect can be caused when some moisture has got between the layers of a display.
Have you used the phone anywhere damp or very humid ?
Keeping it somewhere warm and dry might be worth a try?
- Steve
Thanks for all the tips. The issue happened when I had the Touch HD in the pouch and in my pocket - so the idea that it was a fold in the pouch holds water.
The funny thing however is that before I saw all of your replies I was already out the door (with the Touch HD back in the pouch and pocket). 5 minutes later when I pulled it out the issue was gone. I am guessing that I reapplied the exact amount of pressure needed or something like that.
Thanks again for the tips and especially to chaosdefinesorder for the nice explanation.
Thx for helping explanation
5 minutes later when I pulled it out the issue was gone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no, i don't think it was gone. check again under a fluorescent light....
i have this on my diamond. my HD is flawless (till now...)
i phoned to a technician and explain the phenomena and he invited me to replace the screen. when i got there, to my complete amazement and embarrassment the stain was gone. only later i discovered that the stain is visible under fluorescent light only.
chaosdefinesorder said:
Unfortunately, other than this I don't think there's a particular way to remove the effect totally if it doesn't work...
Hope you manage to smooth it out!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks m8, already tried this (on my diamond) and tried now again with both yr methods. no results. the stain is still there...i think only a replacement can solve it.
here u have the paralel thread in diamond forum:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=439410&highlight=oily+stain
you can not do it yourself. the best way will be to go to your seller or straight to HTC, because I think you HD still have warranty.
I repaired ones an Diamond and I can tell you, it wasn´t an easy way.
could anyone share any experiences for a good working stylus for the hd2?
this phone is stupendous but alas i have to use it for work and the software we use requires very tiny touches and signature signing.
have tried the ones on e-bay (rubber topped pencil turned upside down)
which is crap...have now tried the htc and dagi ones with the tiny red dot and they are just not cutting it.
has anyone done any homemade experiments or come across a moe "pointy" stylus
toodle pip amigos
I got some, and they were crap...
davidcampbell said:
I got some, and they were crap...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately you are all too correct!
With the glass screen!
Put a protector on it and they work!
I have been using the dagi long slim one and it works ok, I do have a screen protector on though so maybe this helps... makes selecting text and writing Chinese characters much easier (I use my hd2 to study/translate Chinese so being able to use a stylus to do this is pretty great)... its a bit fiddly to start with as you need to learn how to use it properly, but once you get used to it everything is ok...
Most of the styli are crap, I need something with more of a point, but that's probably not possible. Still waiting for some sort of battery powered pen that offers pin point precision, a guy can dream right...
i'll try to put a screen protector on as suggested and try...
my problem is it's no good mastering the dagi myself as i have to get customers signatures and most people simply can't use it...
it deffo needs something more pointy.
i'm sure i read somewhere on the forum about a guy who was filing something to a point till it stopped working???
i'm so frustrated as this is the only phone in 8 years that uses my works software flawlessly...except stylii
I have ordered the official htc stylus 400.
arrives in 2 weeks and i'll post comments.
read a review after ordering that it actually scratches the screen!
I guess i should have waited for the 400/2 version!
look on the bright side, will probably misplace it by the second day anyway
I've tried using my DS stylus but that doesnt work, seems like it was made for bigger objects to come in contact with the screen (ie fingers).
ILLEATYAFACE said:
I've tried using my DS stylus but that doesnt work, seems like it was made for bigger objects to come in contact with the screen (ie fingers).
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It`s not about the size of objects. HD2 has capacitive screen.
"A capacitive touchscreen panel consists of an insulator such as glass, coated with a transparent conductor such as indium tin oxide (ITO).[2][3] As the human body is also a conductor, touching the surface of the screen results in a distortion of the body's electrostatic field, measurable as a change in capacitance. Different technologies may be used to determine the location of the touch. The location can be passed to a computer running a software application which will calculate how the user's touch relates to the computer software."
Wikipedia
thanx for input guys..i least i know about capacitive screens now thanx to kregowski...although i sorta knew.
so if someone could come up with a small pointy thing that gives off some sort of electro staticy stuff...we in..
the search continues
Got the dagi (10 euro from Hong Kong). I am not amused... Touching the screen with the complete tip flat on the screen is annoying to get used to. Often only the side of the tip touches the screen.
When the tip is flat on the screen (which it should) it just does not feel OK. Not "delicate".
Which the screen responsiveness lowered and the tap-reaction time increased (which I did just to be able to get some decent fingertyping results) the dagi does not function adequate. I have to aim more accurate then with my fingers and have to press the dagi on the screen.
Putting the screensettings to default (which I did not try yet) reinstates all the drawbacks in the other functionalities.