So, I'm loving the scroll wheel experience on all 4 of my Hermes units. It's not as effective as my 2 P990i's scroll wheel, but it's a nice change that allows better one-handed operation on Pocket PCs. I mean, try using an HTC Universal with one hand. It's a nightmare, either way! Laptop mode, OR tablet mode! With the scroll wheel we're one step nearer to it.
Without having the unit in my hand to actually try, I find it strange that the wheel is on the left side of the unit. I guess by your email, it still feels comfortable.
my best guess is that they figured that if you have the stylus in your right hand then you can use the wheel with your left. So I've had mine about a week now, and my impression is: NOPE If I've got the stylus out, why do i need the wheel? I need the wheel on the right to use INSTEAD of the stylus - just like my Blackberry. Nice try, but they missed the mark.
By placing it on the left they also have made it easy to by mistake touch the wheel, and change focus, when using the hardware keyboard!
And when in a car holder, if you have it to the right, you have to put your hand infront og the screen to be able to scroll!!
Related
So i've been using my hermes since december i think but my scroll wheel has been acting wierd since day 1 and was wondering if anyone else experiences the same thing.
Basicly as i scroll down the page (or whatever i'm scrolling) jumps up.
It looks like for every 2 clicks down i get one click up... anyone else having this issue? should i send it in for warranty repair?
I get that randomly and I have seen it reported before. Not aware of anything possible to fix it though.
Mike
my scroll wheel has been playing up a month after i got it and now i don't even bother to use it since its useless and irritatingly so ie. you scroll down and the cursor goes up!
oh well, just ignore it till i upgrade to the next phone
my969 said:
my scroll wheel has been playing up a month after i got it and now i don't even bother to use it since its useless and irritatingly so ie. you scroll down and the cursor goes up!
oh well, just ignore it till i upgrade to the next phone
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Click to collapse
yah i was thinking along the same lines... posted this cuz i was curious to how many are seeing this and if i should send it in for warranty repair...
mine works, but i feel the quality is poor.
I have to be EXTREAMLY carfull when i press the scrol wheel in that it doesn't scroll up or down as its being pressed in!
the quality when compared to a blackberry scroll is IMHO very very poor.
I have similar problem. I can scroll down without problems (and very exactyl), but scrolling upward need 2-3 times more finger action (and is not ecact too, sometimes jumps 1 line up or down).
First I thougt its hardw
re related (maybe dirt in the wheel) but after a hardreset its gone. But comes back after some software is installed.
Thats really bad, because the scroll wheel is the key for 1 hand usage!
Why HTC can not use Sonyericson (P900) type of wheel?
I have the same problem but it started after 5 months of my i-mate JasJam usage. I went to warranty claim center and they boot it up with clean installation. It seems work for some hours fine then again started to skip the lines of selection. Till now I am also searching for solution coz I can't go again and again to that place its far away man. I think it is neither hardware problem nor software problem. The thing is its flop and HTC has removed it from their new device HTC Touch.
This jog system came in Sony (not Sony Ericcson) mobile and it failed to take share in market even .000001 %. Now you will not find any device with this thing coz dust make it weak to sense and if I am not wrong just recall the 70's and 80's radio transisters
Decrease sensitivity?
Scroll wheel is perfect thing, but I experience same issues as mentioned above. I think that if possible to decrease it's sensitivity (maybe registry value or some more dirty software hack) will make it more precise and without counter movements (up instead of down or moving during push).
My opinion is that scroll wheel is order of magnitude better way of control than sliding with fingers over screen (iPhone is spreading this stupidity all over and designers are blindly copying that).
So, anyone that is capable of decreasing Hermes scroll wheel sensitivity?
My problem with the scroll wheel is that in a program or settings list, it scrolls up and down but jumps and doesn't go across first, then down.
Hey everyone...
I'm currently working on a school project to re-design the housing of a pda.. I've decided to use the 8125 as my base. I've just recently started researching and learning about the software. I plan on upgrading to WM6, adding Touchflo, and whatever mods seem interesting. I was curious if you all had any suggestions as far as improving the overall original design. I'll be making two phones. One being a slide with a rotating screen feature, and two being a thin, non-slide, full touchscreen model similar to the HTC Touch. Any suggestions you all have would be great to work with and put into my research report. Keep in mind I can change just about every physical aspect of the phone, speakers, battery, buttons, ect... Thanks very much guys.. Looking forward to some intersting feedback..
they never did stuff like that when I was at school!
I would change the D pad because the up button has to be quite precise, maybe make it with a bit more relief.
Also would move the speakers from the side because I tend to cover them when I hold the phone (thumb covers right side, forefinger covers left) in my left hand. possibly put them on front.
I use infra red a bit and sometimes wish it was on top of the device instead of the side.
good luck with the project.
Edit: nearly forgot to say move the stylus silo from the bottom then if it goes loose (they all do) then it wont fall out as easily.
some pics would be nice when its done.
Sounds good.... Thanks you for the reply. I'll definately post photos when I finish.
I always liked the "tablet" design of the Universal...if you could make it a little less bulky. Of course I've never used that device, but it theory it seemed cool.
Well since you said that it will be using TouchFlow my first bit of advice would to be to make the screen flush with the housing. The biggest issue I have with the Wizard when it comes being finger friendly is hitting the X/ok key in the upper right corner. If the screen was flush with the casing this wouldnt be an issue.
Another thing would be to switch out the mini audio jack on the bottom with a standard headphone jack. I know that you might loose the ability to use a mic with headphones but it would be a small price to pay for the ability to use a nice set of phones without the need for an adapter sticking out the bottom. Not to mention that Bluetooth would take care of the need for a headphone with mic.
I read in one of the tech user manuals for the Wizard that there is a 2megapixel CCD for the phone along with the stand 1.3mp. Im not sure of the validity of this, but if you can get your hands on it that might be pretty nice.
Adding a more powerful IR to the phone and placing it at the top would be a nice touch as well. Would be nice to have the TV remote function with this phone.
Im sure Ill think of some other things, and Ill post them here as well.
PS another Idea would be to use the hardware listed here... pretty cheap if you ask me. http://www.compulab.co.il/x270em/html/x270-em-datasheet.htm
Good luck.
Awsome... Thanks very much for the suggestions... I checked out the Compulab Embeded phone... However, the minimum quantity they will sell is 1000 units. It would make for a nice base though...
Enjoying my new Nook Glowlight Plus after much angst of thinking it was time to jump ship. Glad I didn't, though I am shocked at the lack of decent covers for it (none I can find with a rear stand like the awesome one I have for my Simple Touch.
Anyway, the one annoying thing about the new unit is the darned phyical Nook button on the bottom front of the unit. I'll be reading away and my finger slips and, presto, I'm out of the book and back to the home screen. There has to be a way to beat this little button into reacting usefully.
Has anyone found a solution for this issue?
Agrajag27 said:
Enjoying my new Nook Glowlight Plus after much angst of thinking it was time to jump ship. Glad I didn't, though I am shocked at the lack of decent covers for it (none I can find with a rear stand like the awesome one I have for my Simple Touch.
Anyway, the one annoying thing about the new unit is the darned phyical Nook button on the bottom front of the unit. I'll be reading away and my finger slips and, presto, I'm out of the book and back to the home screen. There has to be a way to beat this little button into reacting usefully.
Has anyone found a solution for this issue?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Install Xposed Additions, and remap the HOME button as "Click" disabled, "Long Press" as home.
I have a jy-ul135n2 but no steering wheel controls in my car. I would like to laser cut a bezel for the head unit that has a row of hardware radio buttons directly under the head unit for << < (pause) > >> etc., as they are much easier to use while driving then a touchscreen. What inputs is the HU looking for on the Key 1 and Key 2 wires? I vaguely recall reading somewhere that this is a resistance based input scheme to decode which button is pressed? Is that correct or is it something else?
Can anyone explain what i need to know to implement this or provide a link that explains it? I just need to know how to wire the Key 1 and Key 2 wires and what inputs they need to see. I can figure the rest out myself. It seems the other option is Canbus controls. I suppose i could find a stand-alone canbus steering wheel control module from another vehicle or aftermarket and kludge it in between my buttons and and the HU canbus input... but that seems overly complicated and a bit Rube Goldbergish way to go about it if i don't need to.
JY-UL135N2 said:
I have a jy-ul135n2 but no steering wheel controls in my car. I would like to laser cut a bezel for the head unit that has a row of hardware radio buttons directly under the head unit for << < (pause) > >> etc., as they are much easier to use while driving then a touchscreen. What inputs is the HU looking for on the Key 1 and Key 2 wires? I vaguely recall reading somewhere that this is a resistance based input scheme to decode which button is pressed? Is that correct or is it something else?
Can anyone explain what i need to know to implement this or provide a link that explains it? I just need to know how to wire the Key 1 and Key 2 wires and what inputs they need to see. I can figure the rest out myself. It seems the other option is Canbus controls. I suppose i could find a stand-alone canbus steering wheel control module from another vehicle or aftermarket and kludge it in between my buttons and and the HU canbus input... but that seems overly complicated and a bit Rube Goldbergish way to go about it if i don't need to.
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Click to collapse
Why not something simple "out of the box" like this one (also watch the video) or this one?
Or the original Joying one, which is apparently identical to the first but much more expensive.
Thanks for the suggestions.
I did consider the first link (the clamp on kidney bean shaped controller). The problem with this unit is i have a 2001 Accord LX. The unit is designed to go on the right side of the wheel which is already occupied by the cruise control pod. I could mount it on the left upside down, but even then i'm not sure their is enough room between the spokes where it would be best to mount it. and anywhere else on the wheel would be awkward to use. And personally i just think it's a cheap and ugly looking clamp-on aftermarket solution. The second one is interesting but not sure where i would mount it, and with both of them... batteries. I don't want a battery operated controller.
My brother has a 60W CNC laser cutter, and I'm already going to be laser cutting a black acrylic bezel to fill the gap between the HU and dash bezel anyway, so adding buttons to it too is not a problem. And part of the reason i picked up an android HU is as a hobby project/device anyway.
I never do anything fun with my phone or tablets that i use everyday. I just want them to work as utilitarian information appliances. My HU is another matter... something to play around with and customize. I wouldn't have bought one otherwise, as they seem to be a work in progress that are not ready for prime time straight out of the box. It doesn't matter if i brick it for a few days before i figure out how to recover it for example. My life will go on without much interruption unlike my phone/tablet if i screw something up.
For myself i don't care if the tactile controls are on the wheel or below the head unit, just that they look good and work. And placing them below the head unit is a much more straight forward project. Putting them on the wheel requires wireless linking and batteries, or running the wires up through the column and clockspring. Frankly I'm just not that motivated, and the after market controllers all seem a poor fit for my wheel and aesthetic tastes.
BTW i though about getting the stereo controls (or wheel) off an Accord EX, but looks like i'd need to pull the wheel to swap it in and it only has 3 buttons anyway. A lot of work for little gain IMO...
OK, I just did a bit of googling and found a thread on the joying forum about steering wheel controls (SWC). This seems to confirm that the Key 1 & 2 inputs are resistance based. The wiring seems to go (something) like this...
Each switch has a resistor in series with it. Each switch/resistor pair are then wired in parallel with the others. One side goes to ground and the other to Key 1. Key 2 can be used for an additional group of keys wired the same way, only wired to Key 2 instead. There may be an additional resistor on the parallel leg of the circuit too?
Sorry i can't post a link to the joying forum thread as i'm a new member who is blocked from posting links. A couple of relevent quotes from the thread...
"So correct me if im wrong. Steering wheel key 1 is just measuring resistance to ground to assign a button function to it correct? Same with key 2 i would guess. And what are the acceptable resistance ranges and how much of a difference in resistance do you need for it to work? I am making a remote control for the passenger side of my rv and was hoping to confirm specs prior to attaching it."
"I was right made up a circuit 75 ohm then 10 ohm increments seems to work fine."
"This particular Outback has two wires coming from the OEM steering wheel controls (SWC, 6 buttons) via a 24 pin plug. Wires are labelled SWC+ and SWC-. They provide a resistance of 4.7kOhm with no buttons pressed or other, specific resistances for each of the 6 buttons on the steering wheel. There is no ground reference.
Initially I made the mistake of connecting SWC+ to Key1 and SWC- to Key2 thinking the unit would measure across both. In this configuration the unit did not recognize pressed keys though. The reason is that the unit is trying to measure resistance to ground and not from Key1 to Key2. Key2 appears to be just another input incase there are additional controls from the wheel. The solution for my car is to wire the SWC- coming from the steering wheel to a ground instead, say battery ground. The SWC+ remains connected to Key1 and this way everything works fine with all 6 buttons recognised. "
I'll need to pull my head unit and extend the Key 1 & 2 wires and do a little of experimenting to figure out the resistance range and steps needed for the head unit to recognize individual key presses. I have a JY-UL135N2 running the Feb. 22nd firmware update. I went into car settings / steering controls. It displays two rows of key functions that can be assigned to the SWC keys. I think you press and hold the SWC button and tap and the corresponding button on the settings screen that you wish to map to it. The top row of buttons in car settings have a number above each button which fluctuates between 254~255. The second row of buttons in car settings doesn't have the number above them, so not quite sure about those yet...
So it would appear Key 1 & 2 are ADC inputs that are measured in reference to ground, and the head unit sees a number from 0-255 depending on the resistance of the key pressed.
It looks like this should be a fairly simply project. I just need to find the time to do it.
edit:add - If you google "joying key 1 2 resistance" the carjoying forum thread about SWC is the first link (for me anyway), it's titled "Learning Steering wheel control for Joying car stereo - Joying Forum".
First off, i'm aware this is a 2017 thread i'm adding onto but my addition is relevant to this.
So i have an unbranded 10" android SC9853i HU in my 2012 Opel Astra J Sports Tourer (Fancy name eh ) and it has a single blank button which i intend to use as a hardware home button. It is just a cover plate that can be turned into a button with a little creativity. I've been reading around on the forum (and Googled) the use of the KEY1 and KEY2 wires on android devices. As is, they are currently not connected and used, but through some type of wizardry i can't comprehend, the steering wheel buttons do work. I suspect this is being interpreted via the wiring in some other way.
From what i've researched so far i learned that these wires measure resistance and the SWC Control app on the device picks these measurements up and does something with it (?)
From what i've found so far, i believe i will be able to make a custom hardware button with a specific resistance. I am however unable to find a good clear cut tutorial or explanation on how to make said button and how to create the resistance or what value. I read that the app for the button learning gives values from 0 to 255. I am slightly concerned about the fact that all values of the app are 255 and every now and then go to 245 or a tad lower. I don't really know what this means (for now).
I do know that this app has absolutely no effect on the current steering wheel buttons because if i try to reprogram one, it just does its assigned function so from what i read, this app is meant to be used with the KEY1 and KEY2 wires.
If someone knows, or can point me in the right direction to make such a button, please do. If me doing so could potentially result in me making the car fly, or change its body color, also tell me and stop me from doing that please
Thanks
PS: i will continue my research regardless of someone flat out telling me how to do this exactly or not. In the case nobody will or can, i will post my progress here nevertheless.
So, after an evening of research into how SWC works and what is needed to make it work, i went ahead and did the thing i set out to do. I've read about those boxes you need to put in between the radio and ISO plug in older cars. I had this on my previous car (Opel Astra G with Kenwood DAB+ 1 DIN). but reading around i did notice that this SWC app acts like one of those boxes and is programmable. So i want on a scavenge trip in my partsbin in search for resistors and buttons. You'll never guess what i killed to get the parts. An old incredibly yellowed broken Microsoft PS/2 mouse. I tend to not throw away old electronics just to steal the parts from them later. I stole the 3 buttons from the mouse and found a bund of blue 10K resistors. I read that the beige resistors have a tolerance of 5% and the blue ones 1% to 2%. I made 3 buttons (and will likely make more in the future) 1 with 1 10K resistor, a second with 2, 10K resistors in series (pictures will follow) and a third with (you guessed it) 3, 10K resistors again in series. i bunched the ends together and soldered it to 2 single wires, one destined for GND and the other for KEY1
I found that this HU only has a single KEY1 wire, so i connected my newly made loom to KEY1 and ground, connected the negative of the car battery back up (i don't need to tell you guys this is a wise idea to disconnect it before you go and mess with wires... do i? ) and went into the control app. I'll admit, i was slightly nervous. I pushed one of my newly made buttons, and lo and behold, the app said, something along the line of "now press the button to learn. (Gotta love chinese translations, Chinglish, i heard someone once call it ).
I programmed all 3 buttons, and they work like an absolute charm. One i set to GPS which simply starts Waze in my setup. Another one is programmed for what i set this project out to be, a home button. And the third, i wasn't sure of what to set it to, so for now i picked the power button. This actually puts the device in sleep mode. Pretty neat, i didn't know it was capable of that through a button.
So in the next post i will make here will be how i but the stolen mouse button dedicated for "home" behind the blank button. Still not sure where i should put the other 2. There are 4 blank ones at the climate control panel, since i don't have heated seats or steering wheel heating. I'll see what i do with those. The most important one for me is the home button.
So, you might wonder, why did i do this since these vertical units come with a bottom bar thing that has climate controls, volume control and home and back buttons? AirController_190000000_com.syu.air.apk. Well, first of all, those climate control things, did work, sort of. Every time i changed something at the physical buttons of the AC, it would also show up on the bottom of the screen. but i could not touch those on-screen buttons to change the AC. I didn't like that. For me there was no need for that and it just took up real estate of the screen.
This HU isn't rooted and i'm still on the fence of ever doing so. But @surfer63 has a nice way of messing with this HU's system apps, and modify them. He also warns of the apk name to have a different number when you mod it and if you don't, that it would no longer work. I deliberately didn't do this and just installed a copy of itself, upon itself, effectively disabling it. I don't regret that and it freed up the screen real estate but it did mean i lost the bottom home and back buttons. they are still in the status bar, but i wanted something at the bottom of the screen. So, to me this is the perfect solution. I don't have useless clutter at the bottom of the screen, and now i have a physical home button, filling up the blank button on the unit. Win win! (for me)
I noticed the Android radio section is kinda small so thought I would provide some feedback with the various ones I've used. I've had two Panlelo and two Atoto radios.
The Panlelo radios I used were basically trash. Well the first one was ok, but it had a long boot. And started up with some strange bluetooth and gps error messages. I did like it at the time and it wasn't until I purchased Atoto that I realized what I was missig.. Being the first Android radio I used I had nothing to compare it to. I bought a different Panlelo for my wife because she wanted a volume knob. That's the only thing nice about it. The SD card slot was broken, the touch was terrible especially at the top and bottom. it wouldn't auto connect to my hotspot, it wouldn't remember my car launcher pro as the default launcher. Was just bad. I had also purchased a camera from them and the power trigger wire had a break in it somewhere. I've come to learn Panlelo does not make quality products. Oh yeah the first Panlelo had the side buttons stop working after a few months! And I always had obd2 connection issues.
The two Atoto radios I've had are amazing! The A6 premium I used for a year and then moved it to my wife's car. It has held up amazing and everything is layed out so much better than Pablelo. I never have issues with it. The obd2 always connects. I recently got the A6 pro with gestures and it's even better, though it's also more expensive. Aside from the gestures, the built in amp is noticeabley better. I can crank it much louder before distorting. It will actually support 2 ohm speakers although the kickers I use are 4 ohm with pretty high sensitivity (I think around 90) so they get pretty loud without an extra amp. The screen is also more vivid, better blacks, viewing angles and brighter. The resolution is the same as the first A6 but It definitely looks better. I don't use the provided screen protectors, and they don't seem necessary. The other A6 has no scratches after a year.
The gestures are pretty cool, although I've found the only two that work without problems are rotating your fingers/hand clockwise and counter clockwise. I never get false positives and it always registers when I use it. I first used it for volume up and down, but I've since used them as shortcuts for navigation and front camera. I changed the navigation app to torque so it pulls torque up instead. And front camera, I use for parking my big f250. Volume controls, home button and next are all configured on my steering wheel.
I used to use to wave your hand (defualt for that is mute) but I found it was triggering just driving around. Im hoping an update will make this more reliable. The other ones, hand forward and hand backward from sensor also trigger false. Umm besides that the layout is really good, with home, back and recents on the bottom left close to driver. (Another thing Panlelo got wrong by putting these on the top right)
Hotspot auto connects. Ohhh yeah and one thing I recently discovered! You can share Google maps navigation via Bluetooth. I'm still trying to think of a more seem less integration (wish it had NFC). But Bluetooth works well. Basically start your navigation from your phone, hit the share button, choose Bluetooth > Bluetooth2> accept the file transfer from Atoto it will then show where it was downloaded but just open maps and it will be there. It's actually pretty easy and works better than trying to type an address in. Especially when a lot of times someone has already texted you the address to your phone.
I'm still hoping for an easier way, I wish I could just out the phone close to the radio and beam it over. Or if there was a good way to get texts on the radio... I know there are Android messaging apps that sync, but I prefer the stock messaging app. Anyway, that's my experiences with Android radios. I like to use carlauncher pro.
Edit: added a couple more pics, one to show the parking camera
I can't make up my mind
Thanks for the right up. I may order the Pro unit minus the gesture feature. What brand of cables did you use on the install?