Hi there,
I cannot seem to get my print working properly. I have followed countless how to's YouTube on how to level the bed. I calibrate the Z axis, then I manually level the bed and it seems to be ok at that point from what I can see. Then I do the Autolevel get results like the screenshot attached. Obviously the print does not get past the first layer... if that. I have manually levelled until I am blue int he face. Also checked the distance from the gantry to the plastic base to ensure bot sides are level. This was the issue before moving to the sonic pad as well.. thought ti might have helped but it didn't I also replace the CR touch unit to see if that was the problem.. no luck. I'm at my wits end.. been at it for a week with no success. Hoping someone has some suggestions?
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What I found on mine was the bed was too tight. Which resulted in the springs just being “rigid” spacers instead of being able to “flex”. I loosened all my adjustment wheels so they were totally loose. Then I tightened them up until the springs looked about 1/2 compressed. I then used a torpedo level to bubble level the bed from front to back on each side then level side to side front and back. Then I deleted the configuration file from the printer. Then I did an auto home. Next I set my Z axis position to 0. Next I then adjusted my Z-offset using an index card which was .2mm thick NOT the .1 that kept trying to use. Once I got that set I stored my configuration. Then I disabled steppers and then trammed ( level to nozzle is called tramming in case you didn’t know) the bed at each corner like 3 times each. Then I did an auto bed level. I also switched to the Creality dual sided magnetic plate. I use the smooth side. My prints have improved 1000%.
I'm having a similar problem... and you might be having the same...
Look at the graph, and at your numbers. I know the numbers are right in relation to how the bed looks in the real world, but the graphical mesh doesn't. One axis is flipped, and I'm wondering if that's the source to the problem. Take the high spot, the mesh shows it as the top left corner. All things relative, that's fine, but the next highest spot then would be the top right corner... but as you can see, it's not. The matrix shows the next high spot should be the lower left, not the top right.
If you adjust the bed to the NUMBERS you will get a fairly flat bed, however, it's my belief that the Ender 3 is still reversing one axis then rotating the mesh and using that to make adjustments. If true, it would and should explain ****ty prints or not getting past layer 1.
And just thinking out loud here, but if you can get the top left and lower right corners about the same and then get the top right and lower left corners about the same, then when it flips it, it might perform OK. I have to experiment. But I have to wonder if there is more to this problem since they are not representing the mesh correctly. It COULD be that the mesh looks wrong, but the coordinates and programming are still correct. I'm just putting this out there because no matter what I do, my left side of the printer is always low, the printer is always lifting to print on that side. Then some days, it is fine.
What I used to do was remove the gcode for auto level once I manually leveled accurately. You can even auto level then tell the printer to clear the config and don't include it in the gcode. But again, more testing is needed to see which way the printer auto corrects itself. If it's autocorrecting to the mesh diagram and not the matrix, then it's broken.
Sorry I don't have any real answers, but trying to add to the discussion since I'm dealing with this right now atm.
Adding myself to the list of people losing their mind with this. I've only been printing a few months and have very little Klipper knowledge so that makes it even more frustrating. I have two Ender 3 S1 Pro printers, though only one connected to my Sonic Pad. I've never had issues leveling or setting my z-offset... perfect first layers and no adhesion issues until the sonic pad. I'll manually level it perfectly, check with a large square and my z offset is great and consistent across my test print. I run the auto level/mesh and though I have my plate almost completely flat when I go to print things are awful. First layers are all over the place (and I'm having prints lift even using a brim), if I print my calibration square parts are too close, parts are too high... it's as though it's not using the mesh correctly. At this point I want to just use manual leveling, if I enter BED_MESH_CLEAR and then reset my z and manually level it will that stop it from using any mesh on my prints? The time I've saved printing faster with the sonic pad has been wasted with this nonsense for days.
Something to try, that I haven't yet... remove the magnetic sheet. I read somewhere in the settings pages that these can cause the pin to cause inaccuracies. At this point, I eyeball level my bed then run a 1 layer sheet and adjust as needed to remove the wave patterns caused by the filament bleeding into the row next to it. I don't use auto level at all until I feel like the bugs are removed or someone can honestly and show validation that it's working correctly.
So yes, clearing the mesh will not use any z compensation. This is what I'm doing now and re-sliced everything to exclude the auto level.
Sounds like that'll be my plan tomorrow, back to basics with manual leveling only and checking my z-offset, I'm done wasting time with it.
I can't get the damn mesh to go away. I've used BED_MESH_CLEAR and then SAVE_CONFIG, it reboots... I then go and set my z-offset and manually level and all should be fine but if I check on my web browser under tune it shows the damn mesh I just cleared! What am I missing?
I clear mine from the web browser. From the same Tune page.
Tried that multiple times, but when I checked it would still be there, ended up having to type BED_MESH_PROFILE REMOVE=default and then SAVE_CONFIG worked and now it shows no mesh
Hey guys. After doing exactly the following it seems that autoleveling and finish prints works now!!!!!
1. Set your Probe / Nozzle aka Papertest
2. Manuel level the 4 outer points
3. Repeat Nr. 1
4. Repeat Nr. 2
5. Do the Autoleveling
6. Delete all 3 lines in the „printer.cfg“ with „fade“
7. Adjust Z-Offset with your 1-layer prints
After doing this I could get the first layer running and finish prints again!
Hope you can reproduce this and give feedback.
Tenebray said:
Hey guys. After doing exactly the following it seems that autoleveling and finish prints works now!!!!!
1. Set your Probe / Nozzle aka Papertest
2. Manuel level the 4 outer points
3. Repeat Nr. 1
4. Repeat Nr. 2
5. Do the Autoleveling
6. Delete all 3 lines in the „printer.cfg“ with „fade“
7. Adjust Z-Offset with your 1-layer prints
After doing this I could get the first layer running and finish prints again!
Hope you can reproduce this and give feedback.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi! Can you please explain what nr.1 and nr.2 are?
Thanks.
Tenebray said:
Hey guys. After doing exactly the following it seems that autoleveling and finish prints works now!!!!!
1. Set your Probe / Nozzle aka Papertest
2. Manuel level the 4 outer points
3. Repeat Nr. 1
4. Repeat Nr. 2
5. Do the Autoleveling
6. Delete all 3 lines in the „printer.cfg“ with „fade“
7. Adjust Z-Offset with your 1-layer prints
After doing this I could get the first layer running and finish prints again!
Hope you can reproduce this and give feedback.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you inform me how to set host server IP in moonraker.cfg from mainsail CLI, if possible
Related
EDIT: 30/1/2012.
Just a follow up on this fix. Well, got sick of constantly having to replace the tape under the battery cover. Over time it flattens, so since I now use the S2 as my daily phone I decided to open it up.
First I found the GPS connection on the motherboard. It connects to / touches a small metal piece on the inside of the rear housing. It's like a U shaped connector so I decided to lift it up with my fingernail.
For a little while it worked great but the problem returned. So I decided to open it up again and lift the connector even higher. Unfortunately I broke it leaving only a flat bottom metal piece on the motherboard side. There was now no way for the 2 pieces to touch so I screwed it completely.
So I then decided to solder a small bit on the rear housing side. I did that and put it back together. Ever since then the GPS has truely been 100% fixed. It hasn't missed a beat over the last 3 or so months of trying.
END EDIT.
NOTE: This is a hardware fix for those whose GPS is completely busted (NO sat views & lock). It is NOT a fix to improve tracking or lock or make an already working GPS better.
After flashing every modem, fw and kernal version I had completely given up on my galaxy s GPS. It had to be a hardware fault.
Back when I first got it, it was OK but a few months later became useless. This fix is hardware related and takes only minutes to diagnose and fix.
It's also probably more useful for pre-October models (i9000 international) which had this fault.
I do not take credit for finding out the fix. Credit for that goes to member 'allottios' (who heard about it from 'cbdrift') for bringing it to my attention on another forum topic.
The fix is simple. Remove the back cover and to the right of the speaker is the GPS antenna. It is covered by what looks like some sort of soft plastic tape.
Now open a GPS test app and then apply light pressure to the very top of the antenna with your finger. NOT the middle or bottom - that makes it worse.
If, like me your GPS shows instant improvement then you have just worked out your problem.
Simply attach a small piece of double sided tape or similar to the top of the antenna so that when you put the back cover on again their is pressure on that spot.
Hope you get the same results I did.
Edit: PICS ADDED: 1ST PIC - AT THE TOP RIGHT CORNER, YOU CAN SEE A WHITE STRIP WHICH IS THE DOUBLE-SIDED TAPE I ATTACHED TO THE TOP OF THE GPS ANTENNA. I DID NOT PEEL THE TOP LAYER FROM THE TAPE SO IT WOULDN'T STICK TO THE BACK COVER.
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Edit (03/05) - If this fix doesn't help, you may also want to try out another fix posted by 'stockie78' (post 209).
There is also a link below for more detail, including pics for this fix.
It is not as simple as the above fix and it involves removing the housing. I have not tried / tested this myself and am not responsible if you break your phone.
"stockie78
Unfortunately the g-spot trick did not work for me, so I decided to look a little closer and removed the plastic housing.
Another guy installed on the metal thingys there a cable and I did some test, too. Again no improvement with different cables and lengths.
But while fiddling around with the metal connector I thought maybe lifting it could help and indeed this was the trick for me. Improved my gps dramatically!
So instead of something pushing the antenna tighter, the metal connector now pushes harder and improves the signal quality.
Maybe a solution for some of you too..."
Link: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=878970
Sent from my GT-I9000 using XDA Premium App
I can confirm that this works for me! Got a lock in two seconds and the arrow followed my path perfectly while I was on the bus, a feat that seemed impossible before! Thanks a million!
If I let go of the antenna the gps loses it signal straight away..
Seriously this deserves a bump! Got a lock on 12 Satellites(!) when putting pressure on the top of the antenna and lost it as soon as I let go.
I`m seriously impressed. Tested on Sygic Aura, iGo and CoPilot and they localyze me immediatly !!!! THANKS A LOT !!!!!
Tried on my SGS and can't honestly see and difference
I did something similar a while back by taking the phone appart to access the interior parts of the phone. I then bent the connector for the GPS up so that more pressure would be applied. It worked great at first then started to get worse after some time. I'm guessing this is because the connector reverted back to its original position (kind of like an elastic).
I suppose this is a similar trick, but instead of applying more pressure from the connector, it does it from the cover. I'll try to get hold of some tape to try this.
By the way I have a Galaxy S from July, and GPS sucks badly on mine.
Need detailed pictures!
Hope it works!!
THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!
My jam just dropped. I just got gps lock within seconds... in my living room, where I had occasionally one sat in sight.
Just applied a small piece of that blue sticky stuff on the very top of the gps antenna and voilà. Cover on and lock is a go go.
Thanks for sharing this
nice one! locked 12 sats after 5 secs!
so a small tape should do the trick eh?
Getting a lock as soon as I start GPS Test! No more jumping around in Google Maps either! This is THE best fix for the SGS yet! Finally I'll be able to use my phone as my primary GPS navigator!
Is it possible for someone to post picture of area that needs to be pushed! Thanks!!!
Toss3 said:
Getting a lock as soon as I start GPS Test! No more jumping around in Google Maps either! This is THE best fix for the SGS yet! Finally I'll be able to use my phone as my primary GPS navigator!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
same here too, wtf if i knew that before ... i would not have so many gray hairs
thanks for sharing
p.s.: connection stays good without any further pressure here, put the cover on again, gps still great
I can't believe this all these months, kernels modem and all kind of fixes and the solution is a duct tape, wow!
Thanks works for me!
Asterix040 said:
Is it possible for someone to post picture of area that needs to be pushed! Thanks!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You should see an elongated rectangle shape on the rightmost part of your phone after removing the back cover(just to the right of your speaker and sim card) - just apply some pressure on the top part(for me it takes a fair bit for it to work) and voila you're done. I'll try to post pics soon!
Second pic taken while indoors on a cloudy day!
Twinsis said:
I can't believe this all these months, kernels modem and all kind of fixes and the solution is a duck tape, wow!
Thanks works for me!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not Duck. Duct, like air duct ; )
Toss3 said:
You should see an elongated rectangle shape on the rightmost part of your phone after removing the back cover(just to the right of your speaker and sim card) - just apply some pressure on the top part(for me it takes a fair bit for it to work) and voila you're done. I'll try to post pics soon!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That would be most appriciated. I'am visual person!
This actually works!!! I bought the galaxy s back in july and the last few months I have been unable to get a gps fix no matter what I tried! After reading this thread I went outside and pushed the top of the antenna. In a few seconds i got 5 meter accuracy and 8 satellites in use! Now I have to find a way to keep the antenna pressed! Thanks a million for the tip!
Samsung should buy you more than one beer!
How much money did they spent to fix that issue?
Thanks man!
This must be the sweet spot?
Edit: ops, to late ; )
/qsec
Well guys, I would like to try it, but my display seems to stop working as I remove the back cover?! Anyone has same issue? What could be wrong?
With backplate cover on, everything works just fine, but without....black screen. Although that phone seems to be responding
I have some debris under my screen cover and want to remove those, so want to find some instructions on how to disassemble and reassemble it. I'm not sure if I can do it myself without damaging the device. =(
Port covers are ordered already.
I've found some info myself here.
So I disassembled my and managed to assemble it back successfully =)
Do not try described below if you are not absolutely sure what you are doing, as it may damage your device and will void your warranty.
Here is my quick guide:
1. Remove rubber pads covering the screws on the back. Pay attention, that they are not same, two closer to the battery are not flat.
2. Remove the screws. My were really well tightened
3. Now you should remove the decorative rubber battery covers. The are fixed with a number of plastic latches on the upper (screen) side. Bottom side is placed on a number of forks (small cylinders), so the bottom side wont go, start with the top. I used a small screw driver and a hard-plastic card (like credit one). Be careful, as the latches can be easily broken, don push too hard.
4. Now you are good to go with the case itself. You can start from the left corner (closest to the camera). I used my fingers to pull up the top cover (with the glass) and inserted the card in the gap, then moving it vertically (perpendicular to the screen) unlocked the side latches. There are 4 of them if I recall right. Just shake the card and it's done. Then proceed to the right side th same way. It is harder to pull the cover there, but with a little help of a small screw driver it went quite well. After the right is unlocked, I moved the card horizontally around the corner of the screen, so it was still in the gap, and then vertically unlocked the bottom side latches. You are done.
5. Be careful when removing the screen as it is wired to the mb by 2 wires with small connectors and a flat cable on the bottom side (opposite to the battery side), also with a connector. Those connectors are easily unplugged and plugged back.
6. If you want to remove the screen, it is attached by 4 side screws to the metal frame (ye, Adam has quite tough metal frame inside). Though be careful, as the lcd is wired to the glass with a touchscreen flat cable, I did not try to disconnect it.
To assemble Adam, perform the actions in reverse:
1. Attach the lcd to the frame with the screws
2. Connect the screen cables to the mb
3. Put the screen on the back part and push those together firmly, to lock the latches
4. Insert the rubber covers. Mind the placement, though the won't fit wrongly. I used the card to push the latches to insert them.
5. Tighten the screws and place back the small rubber screws plugs, mind the correct position for the top two, as they are not symmetrical.
So what was my goal? I just wanted to remove debris from under the glass, those were very annoying. If you have those, you may try my way, but be sure you are doing it in dust free environment, or you'll just make things worse =) I used photo lens cleaning kit, to blow them away, but high pressure air can (those are sold to clean electronics), but it was about 25$ at my local store =(
As for the debris reason, I think it is not because of ports or other gaps in the case, it seems, that it comes from the lcd panel itself. Seems like panel manufacturer does not pay enough attention to dust-free conditions, so although Adam seems to be assembled in clean conditions, this debris falls from the gaps between the lcd frame and panel itself right to the gap between it and the glass. The screen and glass have some perimeter foam stripes, so the dust from outside can hardly get there.
All in all, I was impressed, how Adam is built, I would say it is of great quality, not perfect, but anyway. Comparable to Apple products, imo. It will surely survive quite a number of disassemble-assemble cycles.
And yes, there is enough room inside for modding, but I can't imagine what else would I've wanted to add to it. Maybe just external GPS antenna port or inner fixed sdhc card for extra space.
Feel free to ask, if you have any questions.
And do not try described above if you are not absolutely sure in what you are doing, as it may damage your device and will void your warranty.
I can recommend a glass-mount base of for example a navigation holder stefan
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strahl said:
I can recommend a glass-mount base
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good idea, will try it next time. This one was actually my first experience with any capacitive-touch device.
I don't remember where I heard this but I like the idea. Is it possible to replace the screen with a screen from a zoom or an Acer or Asus? I don't like some of the qquirkier things of the screen so. I would appreciate your opinion and thanx for this guide!
Sent from my Adam using Tapatalk
craby1925 said:
Is it possible to replace the screen with a screen from a zoom or an Acer or Asus?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It totally depends on the lcd panel you wont to exchange current with. It is not totally impossible, I think, but it's certainly a challenge for a pro.
I've also performed some for-fun modding to my Adam, to make activity/power leds more visible and less 'disco'.
Used two pieces of optical cable to route light where it should go and not highlight everything around. Also had to cover the leds with adhesive tape and covered the gaps around the cable and case with sealant (from inside of course) for better exterior. Also, charging (violet) state is clearly visible now.
(Clickable for fullsize)
Also, you may notice a strange inner button in Adam(top of the first picture), but it does not seem to perform any action (at least on home screen, where I tried).
PsychodelEKS said:
Also, you may notice a strange inner button in Adam(top of the first picture), but it does not seem to perform any action (at least on home screen, where I tried).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe that this the "recovery button" as described in http://developer.download.nvidia.com/tegra/docs/harmony_hw_setup.pdf. I once managed to make my bootloader crash and with this button I was able to flash my Adam again (see http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=11769749&postcount=56).
stefan
strahl said:
this the "recovery button"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Luckyly for me it was not "wipe all" button =)
Cool! I opened it up and fixed my battery charging issue!
Thanks.
craby1925 said:
I don't remember where I heard this but I like the idea. Is it possible to replace the screen with a screen from a zoom or an Acer or Asus? I don't like some of the qquirkier things of the screen so. I would appreciate your opinion and thanx for this guide!
Sent from my Adam using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
@craby did u ever happen to find out an alternate screen that goes well with the adam
i broke mine when trying to open, and my adam lies waste witout a screen
i would like to get hands on some sort of patch to allow me replace this screen with another keyboard or joystick ..
anyone who has such a patch already ?
Hello,
I have my Z3C for a few days now and I think it is great!
I haven't drop it (yet) so everything is alright. Still I found a possible weak screen spot.
I was tapping the screen a litte big rough and I noticed some colours changed. You know, the regular changing of colours when performing force on a LCD screen.
It is just right of the text "slide to unlock" on the lock screen and doesn't take much force.
I applied some force to every part of the screen and noticed that the same spot showed those weird colours.
Is anyone else noticing this and might this be a weak spot?
Picture(can't post links yet):
i.imgur.com/bHWrCzM.jpg
Upload a picture of it
All OK on mine just checked.
<deleted>
Any pictures of this?
I tested mine and it seems fine.
Just dropped it a few minutes ago, it is more slippery as sope.
I just added a picture of the possible weak spot.(i.imgur.com/bHWrCzM.jpg)
I noticed the same sort of problem.
I have had my handset for about a week now (pre-ordered on Sony store, received it on Oct. 7th), it's an orange D5803, production labeled as 14W37.
Last weekend, a few days after owning it, I spotted at first a brighter spot at the bottom of the screen. As I left on the original protecting plastic foil, at first I thought some air just got trapped underneath it. After removing the protection layer for applying a proper plastic protection, I figured it actually was a screen bright spot.
Investigating further this issue, I noticed than by touching at the bottom of the front glass, "color waves" typical of suffering LCD displays appear up to the spot all along a vertical line, which I figured being an internal reinforcement or otherwise part of the inner structure.
More details in the following pictures:
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(original size at https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/14131505/Z3C_brightdot/combo2.png)
As I tried to render with this "3D scan" of the front glass surface (both the phone and the light source were fixed, the point of view for the camera moving in order to perform a full swipe), the screen seems to be "pushed up" from the inside of the phone, just underneath the bright spot.
Normal view:
(original size at https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/14131505/Z3C_brightdot/DSC_0082.jpg)
Detail of the bright dot area:
(original size at https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/14131505/Z3C_brightdot/marker.png)
Emphasis on the detail (custom color tone curve) to show the affected area:
(original size at https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/14131505/Z3C_brightdot/threshold_emph.png)
What happens on touching the bottom:
(original size at https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/14131505/Z3C_brightdot/touch.png)
EDIT: As I turned off the device, I had the opportunity to check a theory I had formulated in these days: the SIM tray appears to end up exactly underneath the bright spot, thus its supporting structure (faulty design tolerances/incorrect assembly?) may be involved in "pushing up" the screen from the inside.
I will contact the support service tomorrow, just to avoid ending up with a damaged screen in a few months of use.
i think i have a similar issue with my z3c. A strange dark spot appeared near the middle of the screen. I'm going to contact support tomorrow.
the4nd said:
EDIT: As I turned off the device, I had the opportunity to check a theory I had formulated in these days: the SIM tray appears to end up exactly underneath the bright spot, thus its supporting structure (faulty design tolerances/incorrect assembly?) may be involved in "pushing up" the screen from the inside.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you test this by starting up your phone without the sim card?
I also see a sort of yellowish tint. Is that also there in reality or just in the picture?
And have you been putting a lot of excessive pressure on your screen while doing tests?
degraaff said:
Can you test this by starting up your phone without the sim card?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In fact (sorry I did not document that), I turned the device on without the SIM card tray, both checking my hypothesis on its geometry (superimposing the tray to the screen) and the screen behavior.
Whereas the geometry was compliant to my idea, the bright spot was still there - perhaps because the screen is damaged already? - and the behavior on touching the glass bottom was the same. But for the latter I was not surprised, as the vertical line has apparently nothing to do with the SIM card tray alone.
---------- Post added at 12:44 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:33 AM ----------
Sorry, I replied before your edit.
degraaff said:
Can you test this by starting up your phone without the sim card?
I also see a sort of yellowish tint. Is that also there in reality or just in the picture?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If for the "yellowish tint" you are referring to the two diagnostics (whole screen) pictures, I am afraid it's more of a "color aliasing" issue with the camera I used, as to the bare eye the white color is absolutely uniform at every lighting level, except for that infamous spot.
degraaff said:
And have you been putting a lot of excessive pressure on your screen while doing tests?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I wouldn't say so. The "tests" I did barely went beyond noticing the issue, in fact the "touch" picture was taken with the finger pushing very lightly on the glass. You just can see that spot all the time on a white / light background. I usually carry my phone in the front pocket, but that shouldn't apply any excess or continuous pressure on the screen glass.
i had to edit the picture because I have taken the picture with low light conditions. It's just to have an idea of what I'm talking about
Hi all,
So I made this pretty embarrassing and stupid mistake. I had to take out my sd card but accidentally pushed the SIM ejector tool through the microphone hole on the top of the phone. Didn't realize it momentarily and pushed even further until I felt like I just penetrated something. Now, the microphone still works, I was able to test that using the built in sound recorder's interview mode but I'm really concerned that I may have compromised the water resistance of the device. I'd really like to hear you guys technical opinion on this. There are, unfortunately, no images I could find that show the secondary microphone.
you need to check device internal pressure if compromised or not by the hole u probably made... in other words device is sealed tight(( this method is originally used to check waterproofness without puting phone in water... ))) let's start:
open Phone app dialer
Type “*#0*#” (without the quotation marks) on the Galaxy S7 dial pad.
Once you are in the service mode screen, tap on “sensors” and check BAROMETER and do a self test --pic--
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everyone has a different barometer-pressure- value so check your value... for example you have 995hPa
so to check
slightly compress the phone using your thumb and index finger by pressing on the display and back
SLIGHT PRESSURE. No Berserker mode please! This is not a crush-your-phone contest!
--> if all seals are intact the pressure value seen (exemple 995pHa)if rise by 2 to 4 values Your phone with intact seals is a closed system. If you compress the volume the pressure goes up as a result. If any of the seals is compromised pressure will not rise.
thats it
- tapatalked - from my VANTABLACK S7 EDGE
@Perfectdevil Holy... Thank you. I think it is compromised. Normal pressure sits around 1005.7 hPa. Pressing the screen increases the pressure to 1006.7 hPa but it quickly drops back 1005.7 hPa. Does this indicate a broken water seal?
to be extra sure download app from play store name -- BAROMETER-pressure gauge.... and check with it
- tapatalked - from my VANTABLACK S7 EDGE
@Perfectdevil Just did. Same thing. Pressure goes up and then slowly falls back to normal. Using the service menu, I covered the microphone hole with my finger an applied pressure, expecting it to stay at the same value. But, again, pressure decreased after a few seconds as it does without me covering the microphone hole. But using the App, pressure stays unchanged when I cover the hole.
Thing is, I have no control subject to compare it to. Would you mind sharing your results?
ok.... my normal values is 1002.3 when i press it goes to 1004-1005 and i long as I'm applying pressure on my phone it stayes at the high pressure value when i release it goes back to stock
in your case when u apply pressure don't release immediatly keep pressing if pressure go up and stayed until u release you are still intact.... if return to first value after going up while u are pressing that means you mobile is comprised
try again and report
- tapatalked - from my VANTABLACK S7 EDGE
Yeah, just did that. Pressure goes up only 1 - 1.3 hPa from 1005.6 to 1006.8 and falls back to 1005.6 within three seconds, even when I keep applying pressure on it. Thank you, @Perfectdevil. I really appreciate your help!
Update: Just did the Barometer Self Test. It passes the self test. Do you know what that means?
Update 2: Had the chance to do the Barometer Test on an S7. Interestingly enough, upon applying pressure, the hPa value didn't change at all. I'd love to hear more test results to compare it to.
The only thing I'd worry about isnt breaking it, is that if you poked hard enough to remove the SMD microphone from the taped location, its held there by water resistant double sided tapes.
The easiest way to fix it is to remove the back glass (buy some water resistant adhesive before hand), reseat the mic with water resistant adhesive, then put the glass back on.
I'm really confused now. Started a survey in the XDA community on G+. https://plus.google.com/+MuhammedAltin/posts/Q6DkBJBnTqv
The results are unexpected. Most people don't experience any change in pressure using the barometer test.
nitrous² said:
I'm really confused now. Started a survey in the XDA community on G+. https://plus.google.com/+MuhammedAltin/posts/Q6DkBJBnTqv
The results are unexpected. Most people don't experience any change in pressure using the barometer test.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The barometer pressure must change if the phone is OK when you press the screen. The thing is, in my case only decimal points changes when I'm doing the test. I use my phone at pool and get it wet every week. Never had any problem.
You must use an app that is very fast at updating when it reads the barometer value.
I use this one and it makes the trick very good:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.beanie.shaker
And the hpa increase and then decrease. The phone is not made to hold the pressure I believe. Remember that it is just ip68
Sent from my SM-G930F using XDA-Developers mobile app
Anyone has any printing issues using Creality Ender-3 s1 can post here .
1. The nozzle temperature display error
Solution: Check if the Extruder connection cable is properly connected.
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2. PLA + first layer adhesion failure
Solution: Increase the temperature to 70 Celsius degrees or exchange the Soft black magnetic sticker with the Gold PEI Magnetic sticker, both will help to improve first layer adhesion. Note: PLA+ requires a hotbed temperate of 60 – 80 Celsius degrees.
3. Failed Prints – Not extruding enough + prints Zits and Blobs
Solution: 1. The extruder may be clogged. If this happens, check that the filament is clean and the spool is dust-free. If there is a lot of dust on the reel, it can block the extruder as it accumulates inside the nozzle. 2. Not extruding enough: Screw up the adjusting clamp a bit, try again after a bed leveling.
4. “It looks like the last File was interrupted …” – How to get rid of that?
Sometimes happens if my printer is connected to the PC. or maybe the gcode is not saved completely (check the gcode file if it still has End-gcode at the end).
5. Plowing after a good first layer
You’re too close to the bed. Layer 1 is epic, layers 2-4 suck, then pretty good from 5 onwards. The plastic pushes upward. When the next layer goes down, it doesn’t have enough space, so it happens again. Normally, this clears a few layers, and you get an elephant to foot. But it can keep going depending on you level of over extrusion.
In theory, every layer after the first should be perfect but that’s not usually how it is in reality. Imperfections in the v rollers frame not dead nuts square, lead screw backlash, etc, etc all make things less than perfect as it travels up the z-axis. That’s probably why you’re seeing plowing after a good first layer. Even with ABL, what you have to do sometimes when looking for perfection is to set the z offset for the first layer, then adjust a layer or two up to make things just right. That’s assuming all the stuff you initially set is set up well and not cause for concern.
6. Can’t get corners to stay down
Try slowing down your first layer some
Try reducing airflow and/or keeping the bed a bit warmer so the corners peel less
Try bed tramming
Can someone please help!!!! Ender 3 s1 stuck on creality screen ever since i tried to update it. Ive tried all the flashing stuff, i think, if ive done it right. Im new to the 3d print game and a lot of this Klipper/Marlin is like chinese to me. Can someone please helo me get this thing going again?
HavasuDirtJunkie said:
Can someone please help!!!! Ender 3 s1 stuck on creality screen ever since i tried to update it. Ive tried all the flashing stuff, i think, if ive done it right. Im new to the 3d print game and a lot of this Klipper/Marlin is like chinese to me. Can someone please helo me get this thing going again?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't have this printer but maybe the display firmware needs to be updated to
hi, been using my new ender 3 s1 for a couple of weeks and all good, printed some things with petg and after a few hours it started jamming up, been messing around with it the last couple of days with some not really much success, i think it retracts and then gets stuck going back in, when it jams i pull out the filament and the length of it to where the step was where i think it jams is pretty much where the top of the threads of the nozzle would be, is there any way they can come out of alignment? tried dissasembling and reassembling with some filament inside so it would stay in line but still keeps jamming up
JANEFLANDERS01 said:
1. The nozzle temperature display error
Solution: Check if the Extruder connection cable is properly connected.
2. PLA + first layer adhesion failure
Solution: Increase the temperature to 70 Celsius degrees or exchange the Soft black magnetic sticker with the Gold PEI Magnetic sticker, both will help to improve first layer adhesion. Note: PLA+ requires a hotbed temperate of 60 – 80 Celsius degrees.
3. Failed Prints – Not extruding enough + prints Zits and Blobs
Solution: 1. The extruder may be clogged. If this happens, check that the filament is clean and the spool is dust-free. If there is a lot of dust on the reel, it can block the extruder as it accumulates inside the nozzle. 2. Not extruding enough: Screw up the adjusting clamp a bit, try again after a bed leveling.
4. “It looks like the last File was interrupted …” – How to get rid of that?
Sometimes happens if my printer is connected to the PC. or maybe the gcode is not saved completely (check the gcode file if it still has End-gcode at the end).
5. Plowing after a good first layer
You’re too close to the bed. Layer 1 is epic, layers 2-4 suck, then pretty good from 5 onwards. The plastic pushes upward. When the next layer goes down, it doesn’t have enough space, so it happens again. Normally, this clears a few layers, and you get an elephant to foot. But it can keep going depending on you level of over extrusion.
In theory, every layer after the first should be perfect but that’s not usually how it is in reality. Imperfections in the v rollers frame not dead nuts square, lead screw backlash, etc, etc all make things less than perfect as it travels up the z-axis. That’s probably why you’re seeing plowing after a good first layer. Even with ABL, what you have to do sometimes when looking for perfection is to set the z offset for the first layer, then adjust a layer or two up to make things just right. That’s assuming all the stuff you initially set is set up well and not cause for concern.
6. Can’t get corners to stay down
Try slowing down your first layer some
Try reducing airflow and/or keeping the bed a bit warmer so the corners peel less
Try bed tramming
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, I can't seem to solve the first issue by checking only the connection. The connection seems fine on both ends. Any other suggestion? Could this be an issue of a faulty thermistor? Also, the printer's Z axis does not move when home or bed leveling is performed.
HavasuDirtJunkie said:
Can someone please help!!!! Ender 3 s1 stuck on creality screen ever since i tried to update it. Ive tried all the flashing stuff, i think, if ive done it right. Im new to the 3d print game and a lot of this Klipper/Marlin is like chinese to me. Can someone please helo me get this thing going again?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the onboard s1 screen isn’t kipper compatible. Once you flash to kipper the screen freezes and no longer works. This is normal. If you need a screen I suggest the sonic pad.
MY S1 was printing fine now all of a sudden when I home or try to autolevel the z axis will not try to lower. I can manually raise or lower the axis, though. I have checked all the connections and nothing appears loose. I am getting a flashing ????? on the screen with the z axis.
jneilson said:
MY S1 was printing fine now all of a sudden when I home or try to autolevel the z axis will not try to lower. I can manually raise or lower the axis, though. I have checked all the connections and nothing appears loose. I am getting a flashing ????? on the screen with the z axis.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What firmware are u using Marlin or klipper if clipper check printer.cfg for z axis settings
hello evryone , i'm having some issue with my Creality 3 ender S1 i have it for 1-2 month everithing was running smooth
but one day it started to have probleme like the one in the picture.
i have checked my level tramed my bed 100x time , made reset factory ,clenaed my bed ,my nozzle,tryed some other fillament , i checked that everthing is square and alligned
i even try to do my Gcode with : leachee , prusaslicer,crealityslicer,and cura
I don't know what to do now
I'd be happy to help, but I haven't encountered this kind of problem.
JANEFLANDERS01 said:
Anyone has any printing issues using Creality Ender-3 s1 can post here .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse