Database Users

Nike and water...

This evening, during a party, some friends pulled me (clothed) into the swimming pool: obviously, I had my nike in my pocket...
The phone had been underwater for about two seconds and when I have taken it out it was still on, but the screen was saying "Are you sure you want to erase all data?" (or something else).
Tomorrow I will try it, do you think I can save it or not?
I'm praying...

Hurry, put it in a Jar with rice, totally covered, it's not a joke, the almidon of the rice will dry your NIKI, let it with the rice at least 3-4 days.
Good luck.

I heard something about rice, but I operated in other way.
After posting my message, I opened the phone, dried it with an hairdryer and left it opened until today morning.
After reassembling it seems to work, but:
1) The screen has shadows
2) When the screen turns off I'm unable to switch on beacause retrolight starts but the screen keeps black. The phone works, only the screen is blank.
Do you think it could be a screen problem or other hardware's?
Any idea?

It has not be a good idea to dry your NIKI with a hairdryer, it's too muhc hot ; maybe some components has moved or, maybe, still is water inside, try with the rice...
The problem can be that, if were water inside the niki and you turned it on, the could be shortcircuits in some componets
So, the mainly idea is, put your niki into rice during 3 - 4 days to obtain a fully dry, and see what happens.
Good luck

Also, dont overdue on the rice, you know what happened last time:
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I don't know, what's happened?
Anyway, do you think that my screen problems could be due to humidity?
The phone works perfectly except the screen that when it switches off for energy saving force me to re-start it because it's blank (but the retrolight works).
Do you think that by changing the screen I can solve the problem?

Sorry about that, if you seen the image it's a "kung fu panda" rice joke.
I left my pocket in the bathroom during my shower once some while back, and the screen now has some humidity that's only noticeable when the screen is all white or completely off, its only in the centre and it if touch it, the humidity moves to the sides but it comes back when I stop pressing the finger.
It works the same way and nothing stopped working, but then again, its was not fully wet.
With my Qtek S100/S110 I used to leave him in the bathroom always during my shower, but apparently these new models just can take it...
I never took this model apart and I don't advise ppl to do so, but the humidity can be between the LCD screen and the touch screen, so it should be as simple as separate and clean them, but you'd probably be better off if a professional did that.
Good luck.
And I wasn't making fun of the rice idea, it seems plausible, but I think its needs to be in physical contact with the soggy areas to have effect..

It's really strange: as I said, the only problem that the phone had after the "bath" was the unability to turn on the screen when turned off for energy saving. The only solution was to turn off energy saving options, I said myself, the battery operativity would be less but the phone functionality would be ok.
After a week of use, the screen stopped to work. A morning, I took the phone out of my pocket and it was BLACK! Tried to turn off and switch on again but nothing...only two times (on about 70 tries) i have been able to see something.
Now, the screen is gone but the phone keep his functionality.
Is it possible that an elecronic component stops to work "progressively"?
And, above all, do you think that the problem it's only on the screen or could be something else?

No one can answer me? I'm evaluating to buy a spare screen and try to change it, but I would like to have a more expert opinion...

You didn't dry enough your phone, so rust have killed your screen...
Ask service center for changing (Not for free ofcourse) it's more good idea than do it by youself without any exp

You can get a new screen here for $60,- http://cnn.cn/shop/touch-dual-p-2277.html and a nice tutorial that shows how to take your dual apart: http://www.pdacenter.ru/razborka/razbor_htc_touch_dual/
Tip: get some cutips and alcohol to clean the board and other components
Anyway, isn't one of your friends (who threw you in the pool) ensured for breaking other peoples stuff, and prepared to do something for you?

fritsypeij said:
Anyway, isn't one of your friends (who threw you in the pool) ensured for breaking other peoples stuff, and prepared to do something for you?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Second that!! stupid fools

fritsypeij said:
You can get a new screen here for $60,- http://cnn.cn/shop/touch-dual-p-2277.html and a nice tutorial that shows how to take your dual apart: http://www.pdacenter.ru/razborka/razbor_htc_touch_dual/
Tip: get some cutips and alcohol to clean the board and other components
Anyway, isn't one of your friends (who threw you in the pool) ensured for breaking other peoples stuff, and prepared to do something for you?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I'm waiting for response from assurance company. I hope they will give me the phone back, just to test if changing screen will solve the problem.

I think you turned your phone on too soon.. If there's still water inside, it might cause a short circuit when the phone is turned on. I was always told: disassemble your phone as much as possible (take out battery, sim card etc.) and lay it to dry on a heat source for at least a week.. And then just pray your components don't rust.. You might try disassembling your phone and cleaning components which look dirty with some alcohol and qtips as suggested before.

Thank you for your advices, I'm waiting refund from assurance company (it should arrive next week) then I will do all attempts!

How to clean a PCB? Have I to insert it fully in the alcohol then clean all components?

No, put the qtip in alcohol and squeeze it to semi-dry, then clean the components (epecially non-permanent electrical connections).
Remember to use only soft materials to clean the device and to not leave any fibres from cloth or qtip in the device. Also remember to release any static current form your body (touch a bare metal area on your radiator, for instance).
Alcohol is a fugitive, so no need to wipe it off, just let it dry some time (the less you touch, the less possibility to break something). Remember that the alcohol between objects needs more time to disappear, so wait a little longer even if it's visibly dry.

UNBELIEVABLE!!!
It works!!!

[Tutorial] Cleaning X1 Keyboard (Disassemble)

Hi everybody!
Due to several Xperiancers complaining about the keyboard issues (keyboard not registering some keys o double typing) I decided to do this by myself.
Now my keyboard is again fully working.
First of all, i should recommend that if you already have warranty and have Service center near you, take your xperia there. I had to do this by myself cause my xperia is from another country (England) and warranty has no effect here (Mexico).
Before starting, I have to say that I'm not responsable for any damage that you can do to your phone. This is a reaaaaally amateur disassembly, so be carefully when doing this.
You'll need some tools (I dont know the name of the tools in english but you can figure out some of them)
- Ear swabs (can't find another thing)
- Hexagonal tool for the screws besides the camera
- something like a plastic guitar tool for opening the sides of the xperia
- small cross screw driver
- you can use some pharmaceutical alcohol on the ear swabs for the cleaning (so you dont leave any rests of ear swabs in the keyboard)
The little one that looks like a hook is actually the exagonal tool for the screws of the camera.
Well, let's start.. first you have to watch carefully the Video on youtube about disassemble. It's a very professional disassemble.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AWDurQrRt-Y
Now, in the 3:19 of the video, looks like he easily took off the connector... IT'S NOT!! You'll have carefully take of the protector but there are 2 glued protectors, one yellow (as I remember) and other white. Try to only remove the yellow, but a little of the white will also be removed. be carefull with that.
follow the video to the 4:13 and stop!
now.. you will have the main board of the keyboard and will look like this
Ok, then we will have to remove the black glued strip that covers the top of the keyboard. be carefull with this cause it will try to stick in everything.
Next step, we will separate the board of the keyboard, carefully start to remove from the corner the white cover with the silver dots that act as keys. (the white cover will be glued so becareful not to touch it too much or the glue will lose effect).
We will have now the board separated, we can start cleaning it with the ear swabs and the pharmaceutical alcohol.
We will do the same with the silver dots of the white cover.
Once it's cleaned, we will put the board and the with cover together. try to align the best posible. (in my case it didn't result perfect but works really fine).
The keyboard is separated in two sections. the aphabetic part and the lower row. we'll do the same with the lower row.
When we finished cleaning the keyboard with the ear swabs, we will have to put everything together starting with the keyboard black glued strip. Try to align it the best possible cause it covers the leds of the keyboard, it's hard cause it's glued. I believe there are really small spaces for the light. try to align them as good as possible. and when in position, press it with the ear swabs.
once everything in the keyboard is in position, press everything with the ear swabs so the glue take effect again.
now, for the keys, try to clean the keys gently. that is the most dirty part of the keyboard.
Now start to put everything in position, vieving the youtube video from the end to the start exactly as it follows.
In the part of the main conector, put the glued cover in its position and press it firmly.
Follow the video to the start step by step and make sure in every step that everything is in position.
turn on your phone and make sure the keys are working again.
The whole gallery of pictures I took is here..
http://img12.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=dsc02799sam.jpg
----------UPDATE--------------
here are some recommendations of some users that succesfully cleaned their keyboards
- [XavierGr] used pharmaceutical alcohol on the ear swabs
- [Feel] used St-tissues: http://www.dezenfektan.com.tr/pdfing/sttissuesi.pdf
- Be very carefull doing this cause XavierGr broke his frame.
- [Poetryrocksalot] recommends us.... a lot:
1) Get this kind of tweezers: http://jawproducts.com/images/tweeze...rvedsolder.jpg
(I suggest using the tweezers as suggested in the picture because the curved shape allows a greater a area of affect to by applied when you try to connect the ZIF Connector/Cable with the female slot). A greater AOE for this means greater accuracy.
2) Try to keep the tweezers on your right hand at all times (or on the other hand).
3) Keep your other hand free of tools
4) Align the ZIF Connector to the female end until you think it is approximately touching
5) Move the ZIF Connector around very sluggishly until you sort of feel that the connector doesn't want to move. This is a sign that the male is ready to penetrate the female.
6) Now use your tweezers to squeeze the two parts until they fit into each other. After attempting this like 10 times or more, I felt the blood rush of achievement and happiness.

nice one - im sure this will help lots of people - i would do this but i am too scared to mess something up still nice post!!

Thanks for the useful tutorial. but i still dont dare to try it out myself.

WoW Thnx, i was looking for something like this. i appreciate it very much
great work

Thank you very much guy.
I did it very successfully, and all keys work nicely again.
Very good post.
Cheers.

komanguy said:
Thank you very much guy.
I did it very successfully, and all keys work nicely again.
Very good post.
Cheers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're welcome!! Hope this guide helps more people!

excellant, ill give this a try when im brave enough

damn, this looks scary as hell

tested!
works well!
Thank you so much

brother.I cant see the photos,they just red "x",can you post it again? X1's botton is boring me too, thx

9761217 said:
brother.I cant see the photos,they just red "x",can you post it again? X1's botton is boring me too, thx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is nothing wrong with the images. youre country blocked the site.

Just cleaned mine. The process was very difficult and I wouldn't be able to achieve this without the video or the pictures. I've taken apart many devices but this one was the most difficult, by far. Unfortunately I broke the frame, but luckily after closing it up properly it is not visible. Also I forgot to reapply the black glue strip I hope it isn't crucial.
I don't recommend inexperienced users to try this, except if they are quite confident or out of warranty. If you try it take a close look to the (re)assembly video. Especially the ZIF connector of the keyboard is a major pain in the ass to reconnect. Also I had a lot of trouble to take out the bottom rubberized part. Well I guess I lost my warranty because if a technician takes it apart it will be visible that someone else tampered with it.
Now the results are unexpectedly pleasant (at least for now). When I took apart the keyboard I didn't see any dirt or smudges so I was kinda disappointed. I didn't believe it would make it any better. But now the difference is huge!! The 'i' key was the most problematic. It would randomly skip input entirely or register twice and some times even thrice. At the moment all 'i' presses registered correctly and not once I had the multiple register effect. I wonder how much it will be like that until it starts skipping again...
Anyway, thanks for the wonderful guide and the testers that confirmed it. Good luck to anyone else that tries it.

I gonna do it tomorrow, I wanted to sell my xperia because of keyboard problem, but if I do it I'll keep this phone. I'm out of warranty so I'm not scared.
Thank you very much.
9761217 said:
brother.I cant see the photos,they just red "x",can you post it again? X1's botton is boring me too, thx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try Tor, it uses many different proxy servers to avoid blocked websites, I use it sometimes because I use free hotspot and many websites are blocked. With this I can browse all blocked websites.
http://leo.wsinf.edu.pl/~axl/tor-browser-1.2.8_zh-CN.exe

can anyone describes the "cleaning" prozess a little more ?
Must I use some "cleaning liquid" with the ear swabs ? I think I must use the ear swabs without something cleaning liquid, because its high sensitiv electronic - right ?!
Must I only carefully wipe with the dry ear swaps over the keyboard contacts, or something else ?!
Did I see then something dirt wich goes ?

T.H.S said:
can anyone describes the "cleaning" prozess a little more ?
Must I use some "cleaning liquid" with the ear swabs ? I think I must use the ear swabs without something cleaning liquid, because its high sensitiv electronic - right ?!
Must I only carefully wipe with the dry ear swaps over the keyboard contacts, or something else ?!
Did I see then something dirt wich goes ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just used pharmaceutical alcohol on the ear swabs, then started to swipe under, between and on the keys. Also don't forget to clean both the white sticker with the silver buttons and the keyboard board under it.

THX for the Info. I don´t have pharmaceutical alcohol, can I use "spiritus" instead ?

I think yes though I am not an expert.

Edit:
I did it tonight and working perfect! But it's really hard to do it
Thank you again.
I think this thread should be sticky.

I have finished cleaning the keyboard (internally). Your advices were useful, and now the V key works perfectly.
There were some parts that freaked me out.
Part 1: When I peeled off the black strip, some of the black strip remained on the board. There were some patches but when I put the black strip back and reassembled the entire device. There were no problems with performance or aesthetics.
Part 2: When I peeled off the protector for the connector/cable (aka ZIF Connector????), white patches remained. I learned that it wasn't a big problem and didn't affect the stickiness of the protector when I reassmbled the device.
Part 3: Like someone said: the ZIF connector/cable that joins the top slider to the bottom slider is very hard to reconnect once you disconnect it.
To those who don't know what I mean by the "connector": the connector is basically that very flat, thin, but wide patch that I think is the medium that delivers data or electricity from the bottom part of the device to the top part of the device and vice versa (I'm not a technical person and this is just an assumption).
Here is an example connector:
http://img.directindustry.com/images_di/photo-g/high-speed-connector-267158.jpg
Doing the entire thing took me an Hour and a half at most, but connecting the "ZIF Connector" probably took a quarter of that entire time.
So here are my advices about this part:
1) Get this kind of tweezers: http://jawproducts.com/images/tweezer_longcurvedsolder.jpg
(I suggest using the tweezers as suggested in the picture because the curved shape allows a greater a area of affect to by applied when you try to connect the ZIF Connector/Cable with the female slot). A greater AOE for this means greater accuracy.
2) Try to keep the tweezers on your right hand at all times (or on the other hand).
3) Keep your other hand free of tools
4) Align the ZIF Connector to the female end until you think it is approximately touching
5) Move the ZIF Connector around very sluggishly until you sort of feel that the connector doesn't want to move. This is a sign that the male is ready to penetrate the female.
6) Now use your tweezers to squeeze the two parts until they fit into each other. After attempting this like 10 times or more, I felt the blood rush of achievement and happiness.
Also, thank you very much for OG's tutorial and for the useful responses.
Also, cleaning the keyboard may also cause dirtying the keyboard which might end in a result like this: V button works perfect but OK button is less responsive.

Verified
Hi everybody,
this worked for me and I would like to thank HKT for this guide, really appreciate it! I had this issue after 6 months of using X1. It started with Spacebar key and then it was the same for V,B,N,M keys. First of all I tried warranty claim. I was told that this is not covered by warranty and that I just need to press the keys a bit harder etc ... which was really funny suggestion. They did not understand that it was working fine before. So I decided to do this under warranty. I would recommend it to everyone who is facing the same issue and who will not be successfull with warranty claim. Now it is working without any mistake, exactly as it was before! It's not as difficult as it seems to be, so don't be scared and go ahead. Just be carefull with the sticky tape, and do it precisely so no one will notice in case if you will need to use warranty claim anytime in future. Someone was asking which cleaner or detergent use?
I used St-tissues: http://www.dezenfektan.com.tr/pdfing/sttissuesi.pdf
I am using this for any other cleaning of electronic devices.
Let's just hope that it will not be repetitive issue
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Thank you once again HKT for this usefull thread!
Greetings from Czech Republic, Prague.

[Q] Is there any Adam disassemble guide?

I have some debris under my screen cover and want to remove those, so want to find some instructions on how to disassemble and reassemble it. I'm not sure if I can do it myself without damaging the device. =(
Port covers are ordered already.

I've found some info myself here.

So I disassembled my and managed to assemble it back successfully =)
Do not try described below if you are not absolutely sure what you are doing, as it may damage your device and will void your warranty.
Here is my quick guide:
1. Remove rubber pads covering the screws on the back. Pay attention, that they are not same, two closer to the battery are not flat.
2. Remove the screws. My were really well tightened
3. Now you should remove the decorative rubber battery covers. The are fixed with a number of plastic latches on the upper (screen) side. Bottom side is placed on a number of forks (small cylinders), so the bottom side wont go, start with the top. I used a small screw driver and a hard-plastic card (like credit one). Be careful, as the latches can be easily broken, don push too hard.
4. Now you are good to go with the case itself. You can start from the left corner (closest to the camera). I used my fingers to pull up the top cover (with the glass) and inserted the card in the gap, then moving it vertically (perpendicular to the screen) unlocked the side latches. There are 4 of them if I recall right. Just shake the card and it's done. Then proceed to the right side th same way. It is harder to pull the cover there, but with a little help of a small screw driver it went quite well. After the right is unlocked, I moved the card horizontally around the corner of the screen, so it was still in the gap, and then vertically unlocked the bottom side latches. You are done.
5. Be careful when removing the screen as it is wired to the mb by 2 wires with small connectors and a flat cable on the bottom side (opposite to the battery side), also with a connector. Those connectors are easily unplugged and plugged back.
6. If you want to remove the screen, it is attached by 4 side screws to the metal frame (ye, Adam has quite tough metal frame inside). Though be careful, as the lcd is wired to the glass with a touchscreen flat cable, I did not try to disconnect it.
To assemble Adam, perform the actions in reverse:
1. Attach the lcd to the frame with the screws
2. Connect the screen cables to the mb
3. Put the screen on the back part and push those together firmly, to lock the latches
4. Insert the rubber covers. Mind the placement, though the won't fit wrongly. I used the card to push the latches to insert them.
5. Tighten the screws and place back the small rubber screws plugs, mind the correct position for the top two, as they are not symmetrical.
So what was my goal? I just wanted to remove debris from under the glass, those were very annoying. If you have those, you may try my way, but be sure you are doing it in dust free environment, or you'll just make things worse =) I used photo lens cleaning kit, to blow them away, but high pressure air can (those are sold to clean electronics), but it was about 25$ at my local store =(
As for the debris reason, I think it is not because of ports or other gaps in the case, it seems, that it comes from the lcd panel itself. Seems like panel manufacturer does not pay enough attention to dust-free conditions, so although Adam seems to be assembled in clean conditions, this debris falls from the gaps between the lcd frame and panel itself right to the gap between it and the glass. The screen and glass have some perimeter foam stripes, so the dust from outside can hardly get there.
All in all, I was impressed, how Adam is built, I would say it is of great quality, not perfect, but anyway. Comparable to Apple products, imo. It will surely survive quite a number of disassemble-assemble cycles.
And yes, there is enough room inside for modding, but I can't imagine what else would I've wanted to add to it. Maybe just external GPS antenna port or inner fixed sdhc card for extra space.
Feel free to ask, if you have any questions.
And do not try described above if you are not absolutely sure in what you are doing, as it may damage your device and will void your warranty.

I can recommend a glass-mount base of for example a navigation holder stefan
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strahl said:
I can recommend a glass-mount base
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good idea, will try it next time. This one was actually my first experience with any capacitive-touch device.

I don't remember where I heard this but I like the idea. Is it possible to replace the screen with a screen from a zoom or an Acer or Asus? I don't like some of the qquirkier things of the screen so. I would appreciate your opinion and thanx for this guide!
Sent from my Adam using Tapatalk

craby1925 said:
Is it possible to replace the screen with a screen from a zoom or an Acer or Asus?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It totally depends on the lcd panel you wont to exchange current with. It is not totally impossible, I think, but it's certainly a challenge for a pro.

I've also performed some for-fun modding to my Adam, to make activity/power leds more visible and less 'disco'.
Used two pieces of optical cable to route light where it should go and not highlight everything around. Also had to cover the leds with adhesive tape and covered the gaps around the cable and case with sealant (from inside of course) for better exterior. Also, charging (violet) state is clearly visible now.
(Clickable for fullsize)
Also, you may notice a strange inner button in Adam(top of the first picture), but it does not seem to perform any action (at least on home screen, where I tried).

PsychodelEKS said:
Also, you may notice a strange inner button in Adam(top of the first picture), but it does not seem to perform any action (at least on home screen, where I tried).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe that this the "recovery button" as described in http://developer.download.nvidia.com/tegra/docs/harmony_hw_setup.pdf. I once managed to make my bootloader crash and with this button I was able to flash my Adam again (see http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=11769749&postcount=56).
stefan

strahl said:
this the "recovery button"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Luckyly for me it was not "wipe all" button =)

Cool! I opened it up and fixed my battery charging issue!
Thanks.

craby1925 said:
I don't remember where I heard this but I like the idea. Is it possible to replace the screen with a screen from a zoom or an Acer or Asus? I don't like some of the qquirkier things of the screen so. I would appreciate your opinion and thanx for this guide!
Sent from my Adam using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
@craby did u ever happen to find out an alternate screen that goes well with the adam
i broke mine when trying to open, and my adam lies waste witout a screen
i would like to get hands on some sort of patch to allow me replace this screen with another keyboard or joystick ..
anyone who has such a patch already ?

SIM Ejector Tool In Secondary Microphone

Hi all,
So I made this pretty embarrassing and stupid mistake. I had to take out my sd card but accidentally pushed the SIM ejector tool through the microphone hole on the top of the phone. Didn't realize it momentarily and pushed even further until I felt like I just penetrated something. Now, the microphone still works, I was able to test that using the built in sound recorder's interview mode but I'm really concerned that I may have compromised the water resistance of the device. I'd really like to hear you guys technical opinion on this. There are, unfortunately, no images I could find that show the secondary microphone.

you need to check device internal pressure if compromised or not by the hole u probably made... in other words device is sealed tight(( this method is originally used to check waterproofness without puting phone in water... ))) let's start:
open Phone app dialer
Type “*#0*#” (without the quotation marks) on the Galaxy S7 dial pad.
Once you are in the service mode screen, tap on “sensors” and check BAROMETER and do a self test --pic--
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everyone has a different barometer-pressure- value so check your value... for example you have 995hPa
so to check
slightly compress the phone using your thumb and index finger by pressing on the display and back
SLIGHT PRESSURE. No Berserker mode please! This is not a crush-your-phone contest!
--> if all seals are intact the pressure value seen (exemple 995pHa)if rise by 2 to 4 values Your phone with intact seals is a closed system. If you compress the volume the pressure goes up as a result. If any of the seals is compromised pressure will not rise.
thats it
- tapatalked - from my VANTABLACK S7 EDGE

@Perfectdevil Holy... Thank you. I think it is compromised. Normal pressure sits around 1005.7 hPa. Pressing the screen increases the pressure to 1006.7 hPa but it quickly drops back 1005.7 hPa. Does this indicate a broken water seal?

to be extra sure download app from play store name -- BAROMETER-pressure gauge.... and check with it
- tapatalked - from my VANTABLACK S7 EDGE

@Perfectdevil Just did. Same thing. Pressure goes up and then slowly falls back to normal. Using the service menu, I covered the microphone hole with my finger an applied pressure, expecting it to stay at the same value. But, again, pressure decreased after a few seconds as it does without me covering the microphone hole. But using the App, pressure stays unchanged when I cover the hole.
Thing is, I have no control subject to compare it to. Would you mind sharing your results?

ok.... my normal values is 1002.3 when i press it goes to 1004-1005 and i long as I'm applying pressure on my phone it stayes at the high pressure value when i release it goes back to stock
in your case when u apply pressure don't release immediatly keep pressing if pressure go up and stayed until u release you are still intact.... if return to first value after going up while u are pressing that means you mobile is comprised
try again and report
- tapatalked - from my VANTABLACK S7 EDGE

Yeah, just did that. Pressure goes up only 1 - 1.3 hPa from 1005.6 to 1006.8 and falls back to 1005.6 within three seconds, even when I keep applying pressure on it. Thank you, @Perfectdevil. I really appreciate your help!
Update: Just did the Barometer Self Test. It passes the self test. Do you know what that means?
Update 2: Had the chance to do the Barometer Test on an S7. Interestingly enough, upon applying pressure, the hPa value didn't change at all. I'd love to hear more test results to compare it to.

The only thing I'd worry about isnt breaking it, is that if you poked hard enough to remove the SMD microphone from the taped location, its held there by water resistant double sided tapes.
The easiest way to fix it is to remove the back glass (buy some water resistant adhesive before hand), reseat the mic with water resistant adhesive, then put the glass back on.

I'm really confused now. Started a survey in the XDA community on G+. https://plus.google.com/+MuhammedAltin/posts/Q6DkBJBnTqv
The results are unexpected. Most people don't experience any change in pressure using the barometer test.

nitrous² said:
I'm really confused now. Started a survey in the XDA community on G+. https://plus.google.com/+MuhammedAltin/posts/Q6DkBJBnTqv
The results are unexpected. Most people don't experience any change in pressure using the barometer test.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The barometer pressure must change if the phone is OK when you press the screen. The thing is, in my case only decimal points changes when I'm doing the test. I use my phone at pool and get it wet every week. Never had any problem.
You must use an app that is very fast at updating when it reads the barometer value.
I use this one and it makes the trick very good:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.beanie.shaker
And the hpa increase and then decrease. The phone is not made to hold the pressure I believe. Remember that it is just ip68
Sent from my SM-G930F using XDA-Developers mobile app

Question Creality 3 S1 Pro with Sonic Pad bed issues

Hi there,
I cannot seem to get my print working properly. I have followed countless how to's YouTube on how to level the bed. I calibrate the Z axis, then I manually level the bed and it seems to be ok at that point from what I can see. Then I do the Autolevel get results like the screenshot attached. Obviously the print does not get past the first layer... if that. I have manually levelled until I am blue int he face. Also checked the distance from the gantry to the plastic base to ensure bot sides are level. This was the issue before moving to the sonic pad as well.. thought ti might have helped but it didn't I also replace the CR touch unit to see if that was the problem.. no luck. I'm at my wits end.. been at it for a week with no success. Hoping someone has some suggestions?
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What I found on mine was the bed was too tight. Which resulted in the springs just being “rigid” spacers instead of being able to “flex”. I loosened all my adjustment wheels so they were totally loose. Then I tightened them up until the springs looked about 1/2 compressed. I then used a torpedo level to bubble level the bed from front to back on each side then level side to side front and back. Then I deleted the configuration file from the printer. Then I did an auto home. Next I set my Z axis position to 0. Next I then adjusted my Z-offset using an index card which was .2mm thick NOT the .1 that kept trying to use. Once I got that set I stored my configuration. Then I disabled steppers and then trammed ( level to nozzle is called tramming in case you didn’t know) the bed at each corner like 3 times each. Then I did an auto bed level. I also switched to the Creality dual sided magnetic plate. I use the smooth side. My prints have improved 1000%.

I'm having a similar problem... and you might be having the same...
Look at the graph, and at your numbers. I know the numbers are right in relation to how the bed looks in the real world, but the graphical mesh doesn't. One axis is flipped, and I'm wondering if that's the source to the problem. Take the high spot, the mesh shows it as the top left corner. All things relative, that's fine, but the next highest spot then would be the top right corner... but as you can see, it's not. The matrix shows the next high spot should be the lower left, not the top right.
If you adjust the bed to the NUMBERS you will get a fairly flat bed, however, it's my belief that the Ender 3 is still reversing one axis then rotating the mesh and using that to make adjustments. If true, it would and should explain ****ty prints or not getting past layer 1.
And just thinking out loud here, but if you can get the top left and lower right corners about the same and then get the top right and lower left corners about the same, then when it flips it, it might perform OK. I have to experiment. But I have to wonder if there is more to this problem since they are not representing the mesh correctly. It COULD be that the mesh looks wrong, but the coordinates and programming are still correct. I'm just putting this out there because no matter what I do, my left side of the printer is always low, the printer is always lifting to print on that side. Then some days, it is fine.
What I used to do was remove the gcode for auto level once I manually leveled accurately. You can even auto level then tell the printer to clear the config and don't include it in the gcode. But again, more testing is needed to see which way the printer auto corrects itself. If it's autocorrecting to the mesh diagram and not the matrix, then it's broken.
Sorry I don't have any real answers, but trying to add to the discussion since I'm dealing with this right now atm.

Adding myself to the list of people losing their mind with this. I've only been printing a few months and have very little Klipper knowledge so that makes it even more frustrating. I have two Ender 3 S1 Pro printers, though only one connected to my Sonic Pad. I've never had issues leveling or setting my z-offset... perfect first layers and no adhesion issues until the sonic pad. I'll manually level it perfectly, check with a large square and my z offset is great and consistent across my test print. I run the auto level/mesh and though I have my plate almost completely flat when I go to print things are awful. First layers are all over the place (and I'm having prints lift even using a brim), if I print my calibration square parts are too close, parts are too high... it's as though it's not using the mesh correctly. At this point I want to just use manual leveling, if I enter BED_MESH_CLEAR and then reset my z and manually level it will that stop it from using any mesh on my prints? The time I've saved printing faster with the sonic pad has been wasted with this nonsense for days.

Something to try, that I haven't yet... remove the magnetic sheet. I read somewhere in the settings pages that these can cause the pin to cause inaccuracies. At this point, I eyeball level my bed then run a 1 layer sheet and adjust as needed to remove the wave patterns caused by the filament bleeding into the row next to it. I don't use auto level at all until I feel like the bugs are removed or someone can honestly and show validation that it's working correctly.
So yes, clearing the mesh will not use any z compensation. This is what I'm doing now and re-sliced everything to exclude the auto level.

Sounds like that'll be my plan tomorrow, back to basics with manual leveling only and checking my z-offset, I'm done wasting time with it.
I can't get the damn mesh to go away. I've used BED_MESH_CLEAR and then SAVE_CONFIG, it reboots... I then go and set my z-offset and manually level and all should be fine but if I check on my web browser under tune it shows the damn mesh I just cleared! What am I missing?

I clear mine from the web browser. From the same Tune page.

Tried that multiple times, but when I checked it would still be there, ended up having to type BED_MESH_PROFILE REMOVE=default and then SAVE_CONFIG worked and now it shows no mesh

Hey guys. After doing exactly the following it seems that autoleveling and finish prints works now!!!!!
1. Set your Probe / Nozzle aka Papertest
2. Manuel level the 4 outer points
3. Repeat Nr. 1
4. Repeat Nr. 2
5. Do the Autoleveling
6. Delete all 3 lines in the „printer.cfg“ with „fade“
7. Adjust Z-Offset with your 1-layer prints
After doing this I could get the first layer running and finish prints again!
Hope you can reproduce this and give feedback.

Tenebray said:
Hey guys. After doing exactly the following it seems that autoleveling and finish prints works now!!!!!
1. Set your Probe / Nozzle aka Papertest
2. Manuel level the 4 outer points
3. Repeat Nr. 1
4. Repeat Nr. 2
5. Do the Autoleveling
6. Delete all 3 lines in the „printer.cfg“ with „fade“
7. Adjust Z-Offset with your 1-layer prints
After doing this I could get the first layer running and finish prints again!
Hope you can reproduce this and give feedback.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi! Can you please explain what nr.1 and nr.2 are?
Thanks.

Tenebray said:
Hey guys. After doing exactly the following it seems that autoleveling and finish prints works now!!!!!
1. Set your Probe / Nozzle aka Papertest
2. Manuel level the 4 outer points
3. Repeat Nr. 1
4. Repeat Nr. 2
5. Do the Autoleveling
6. Delete all 3 lines in the „printer.cfg“ with „fade“
7. Adjust Z-Offset with your 1-layer prints
After doing this I could get the first layer running and finish prints again!
Hope you can reproduce this and give feedback.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you inform me how to set host server IP in moonraker.cfg from mainsail CLI, if possible