Database Users

Tytn Camera

Hello you guys. I don't have a macro mode since I bought the phone (to another person). It looks like the phone is always in landscape mode. When I pull that button on the back of the camera (to choose between the modes modes) nothing happens. In addition when i push the button up (landscape mode) it doesn't go till the end of that "mini path"(dont know how to call it ).
Here's a pic of what i mean:
I hope u can help me. I found this problem because my grilfriend bought a hermes too (from VDF UK) and in hers the macro mode actually work's.

Did the previous owner ever disassemble the phone? I think the cameras mode selection lever can function improperly if it isn't in the correct position during reassembly.

dzelaya18 said:
Did the previous owner ever disassemble the phone? I think the cameras mode selection lever can function improperly if it isn't in the correct position during reassembly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No he didn't. As a matter of fact HTC did. It had that problem with screen alignment. It is still in warranty but i already CID, unlocked, changed radio & rom So I dont know what to do...

HTC along with other repairers often forget to line up the small arm on the camera with the toggle switch on the back cover (As the above poster says).
If you have no warranty then remove the back cover and line up the camera arm with the switch - and test before putting the screws back in.
It's a fiddly job but not difficult - may take you a few attempts, that's why you should not put screws back in until you have checked it's working.
Here you can see the black lever arm on the right side of the camera. It needs to be lined up with the switch on the back cover. It is often forgotten when re-assembling:
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Mike

mikechannon said:
HTC along with other repairers often forget to line up the small arm on the camera with the toggle switch on the back cover (As the above poster says).
If you have no warranty then remove the back cover and line up the camera arm with the switch - and test before putting the screws back in.
It's a fiddly job but not difficult - may take you a few attempts, that's why you should not put screws back in until you have checked it's working.
Here you can see the black lever arm on the right side of the camera. It needs to be lined up with the switch on the back cover. It is often forgotten when re-assembling:
Mike
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Click to collapse
May I break the device by doing that? Or the camera? Im saying because I tried to push it harder up, but nothing happened...

Zero|Cool said:
May I break the device by doing that? Or the camera? Im saying because I tried to push it harder up, but nothing happened...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't force that lever, you could snap the plastic! If the switch is not linked to the lever it will not work.
Taking the back cover off will VOID your warranty. If you do not have a warranty then you can either take it for repair or do it yourself. If you take it for repair just tell them the back has been put on with the switch disengaged from the lever.
If you do it yourself you will need to remove the 4 screws with a Torx 6 screwdriver. Open the case at the bottom end first preferably using a "case opening tool" or a plastic knife. There are small plastic grroves all around and you need to gently prize the case off.
Then the fiddly bit. Try to set the arm of the camera fully up and the switch on the case in the same position. With luck the switch will engage the lever. This may take several attempts before you get them matched up.
Mike

mikechannon said:
Don't force that lever, you could snap the plastic! If the switch is not linked to the lever it will not work.
Taking the back cover off will VOID your warranty. If you do not have a warranty then you can either take it for repair or do it yourself. If you take it for repair just tell them the back has been put on with the switch disengaged from the lever.
If you do it yourself you will need to remove the 4 screws with a Torx 6 screwdriver. Open the case at the bottom end first preferably using a "case opening tool" or a plastic knife. There are small plastic grroves all around and you need to gently prize the case off.
Then the fiddly bit. Try to set the arm of the camera fully up and the switch on the case in the same position. With luck the switch will engage the lever. This may take several attempts before you get them matched up.
Mike
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Click to collapse
Thanks for your reply Hum I have CID the phone, unlocked it and everything. Is there a way to set it back to the original state? If yes ill take it to warranty, if not ill do it myslef

Does your G1 screen have any "flex" with the screen open?

Hi,
New G1 today - With the screen slid open it feels almost loose (Eg, I can wiggle the screen about backwards and forwards [NOT slide it back into device]).
I do not find this problem when the G1 is in its PDair case however this is most probably because the leather strap that goes around the top of the phone removes any slack that it seems the G1 has.
I do not really want to return the phone as this is my 3rd handset (First 2 were faulty) and would be able to cope for it if this is a known thing that many have however if this is a significant problem I'd have no option...
Look forward to hearing from you.
Cheers.

My Dev phone has a fair amount of flex. I thought about trying to take it apart and tighten it up, but I think I'll let it get a little wear and tear before I go messing around with it like that. The only thing I am really worried about is if I ever drop it with the screen open which could result in it snapping all the way off, but in normal usage it isn't too terribly bad.

LavaChild0809 said:
New G1 today - With the screen slid open it feels almost loose (Eg, I can wiggle the screen about backwards and forwards [NOT slide it back into device]).
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Click to collapse
It's normal and due to the relatively weak construction of the sliding arm design. Basically the entire screen swings and is held in place on all axes by one thin metal arm.
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Thanks for such brilliant replies - The photo inparticular is very interesting.
Only thing is reading back my description I'm not sure if I was clear.
Imagine holding the keyboard still and lifting the screen into and out of the photo... The screen has some give or flex in this axis.
Even now I'm not sure I've explained it well... Can you please confirm you understood correctly before and this behaviour is normal for a G1?
Thanks!

Basically there is no axis that the screen does not have a bit of give in, if you give enough force. Of course if the screen is just flopping around loose then that's probably a defect. But it's normal to be able to lift the screen away from the rest of the body when the screen is closed. Hopefully the next iteration will have a more robust design that attaches with atleast two points on the main body.

My above issue is when the screen is open (As in fully slid out)... I wouldn't say it is completely floppy but requires very little force to move. I don't mind if this is a design "flaw" but want to know so that I know if I need to return my G1 or not.
Thank you very much for all of your help - If you could confirm regarding my issue being when the screen is open (Fully slid out) that would be great.
Thanks again!

yea this is happening to me too, and i know its not normal bc my phones brand new and it didnt do this until the other day, and my other friends phones dont do it either

Not that this is what you want to hear....
I'd get another one.
HTC needs to get their crappy work back. I mean, I love what they do, but they don't exactly prioritize doing it well. If we keep sucking it up, they'll keep doing crappy work.

I'd say unless the screen unit is moving 1.0+ millimeters away from the casing then forget about exchanging. Some devices have looser screens than others. If your device has play in the lower left corner more than a millimeter then it is beyond the average. However, you should keep in mind that you might get a refurb in return and it could be worse or have other defects.

[Q] Is there any Adam disassemble guide?

I have some debris under my screen cover and want to remove those, so want to find some instructions on how to disassemble and reassemble it. I'm not sure if I can do it myself without damaging the device. =(
Port covers are ordered already.

I've found some info myself here.

So I disassembled my and managed to assemble it back successfully =)
Do not try described below if you are not absolutely sure what you are doing, as it may damage your device and will void your warranty.
Here is my quick guide:
1. Remove rubber pads covering the screws on the back. Pay attention, that they are not same, two closer to the battery are not flat.
2. Remove the screws. My were really well tightened
3. Now you should remove the decorative rubber battery covers. The are fixed with a number of plastic latches on the upper (screen) side. Bottom side is placed on a number of forks (small cylinders), so the bottom side wont go, start with the top. I used a small screw driver and a hard-plastic card (like credit one). Be careful, as the latches can be easily broken, don push too hard.
4. Now you are good to go with the case itself. You can start from the left corner (closest to the camera). I used my fingers to pull up the top cover (with the glass) and inserted the card in the gap, then moving it vertically (perpendicular to the screen) unlocked the side latches. There are 4 of them if I recall right. Just shake the card and it's done. Then proceed to the right side th same way. It is harder to pull the cover there, but with a little help of a small screw driver it went quite well. After the right is unlocked, I moved the card horizontally around the corner of the screen, so it was still in the gap, and then vertically unlocked the bottom side latches. You are done.
5. Be careful when removing the screen as it is wired to the mb by 2 wires with small connectors and a flat cable on the bottom side (opposite to the battery side), also with a connector. Those connectors are easily unplugged and plugged back.
6. If you want to remove the screen, it is attached by 4 side screws to the metal frame (ye, Adam has quite tough metal frame inside). Though be careful, as the lcd is wired to the glass with a touchscreen flat cable, I did not try to disconnect it.
To assemble Adam, perform the actions in reverse:
1. Attach the lcd to the frame with the screws
2. Connect the screen cables to the mb
3. Put the screen on the back part and push those together firmly, to lock the latches
4. Insert the rubber covers. Mind the placement, though the won't fit wrongly. I used the card to push the latches to insert them.
5. Tighten the screws and place back the small rubber screws plugs, mind the correct position for the top two, as they are not symmetrical.
So what was my goal? I just wanted to remove debris from under the glass, those were very annoying. If you have those, you may try my way, but be sure you are doing it in dust free environment, or you'll just make things worse =) I used photo lens cleaning kit, to blow them away, but high pressure air can (those are sold to clean electronics), but it was about 25$ at my local store =(
As for the debris reason, I think it is not because of ports or other gaps in the case, it seems, that it comes from the lcd panel itself. Seems like panel manufacturer does not pay enough attention to dust-free conditions, so although Adam seems to be assembled in clean conditions, this debris falls from the gaps between the lcd frame and panel itself right to the gap between it and the glass. The screen and glass have some perimeter foam stripes, so the dust from outside can hardly get there.
All in all, I was impressed, how Adam is built, I would say it is of great quality, not perfect, but anyway. Comparable to Apple products, imo. It will surely survive quite a number of disassemble-assemble cycles.
And yes, there is enough room inside for modding, but I can't imagine what else would I've wanted to add to it. Maybe just external GPS antenna port or inner fixed sdhc card for extra space.
Feel free to ask, if you have any questions.
And do not try described above if you are not absolutely sure in what you are doing, as it may damage your device and will void your warranty.

I can recommend a glass-mount base of for example a navigation holder stefan
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strahl said:
I can recommend a glass-mount base
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Good idea, will try it next time. This one was actually my first experience with any capacitive-touch device.

I don't remember where I heard this but I like the idea. Is it possible to replace the screen with a screen from a zoom or an Acer or Asus? I don't like some of the qquirkier things of the screen so. I would appreciate your opinion and thanx for this guide!
Sent from my Adam using Tapatalk

craby1925 said:
Is it possible to replace the screen with a screen from a zoom or an Acer or Asus?
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Click to collapse
It totally depends on the lcd panel you wont to exchange current with. It is not totally impossible, I think, but it's certainly a challenge for a pro.

I've also performed some for-fun modding to my Adam, to make activity/power leds more visible and less 'disco'.
Used two pieces of optical cable to route light where it should go and not highlight everything around. Also had to cover the leds with adhesive tape and covered the gaps around the cable and case with sealant (from inside of course) for better exterior. Also, charging (violet) state is clearly visible now.
(Clickable for fullsize)
Also, you may notice a strange inner button in Adam(top of the first picture), but it does not seem to perform any action (at least on home screen, where I tried).

PsychodelEKS said:
Also, you may notice a strange inner button in Adam(top of the first picture), but it does not seem to perform any action (at least on home screen, where I tried).
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Click to collapse
I believe that this the "recovery button" as described in http://developer.download.nvidia.com/tegra/docs/harmony_hw_setup.pdf. I once managed to make my bootloader crash and with this button I was able to flash my Adam again (see http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=11769749&postcount=56).
stefan

strahl said:
this the "recovery button"
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Click to collapse
Luckyly for me it was not "wipe all" button =)

Cool! I opened it up and fixed my battery charging issue!
Thanks.

craby1925 said:
I don't remember where I heard this but I like the idea. Is it possible to replace the screen with a screen from a zoom or an Acer or Asus? I don't like some of the qquirkier things of the screen so. I would appreciate your opinion and thanx for this guide!
Sent from my Adam using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
@craby did u ever happen to find out an alternate screen that goes well with the adam
i broke mine when trying to open, and my adam lies waste witout a screen
i would like to get hands on some sort of patch to allow me replace this screen with another keyboard or joystick ..
anyone who has such a patch already ?

Repairing S pen

This is my first post here and I hope to make it a good one which someone somewhere will find useful.
Basicly I had my Note for just 1 day before the stylus started acting up, the screen would sense the stylus upto about 8mm away from the screen, very irritating! I actually found a video online about how to combat the problem by wrapping foil around the pen to block the signal, while this may work for some its very tempermental and doesnt allow the pen to work as its designed.
I dismantled my pen, mole grips adjusted correctly with some cloth on the jaws to stop any scratches and the end popped out easily enough, once thats out press the nib on a hard surface so the button raises and prise it out with a pin and then everything will just slide out from the back.
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once apart i was faced with these components plus a tiny mangled piece of rubber, i assume it was a o-ring between the magnet and the coil to stop them from touching, after some testing with the pen apart it was quite clear to me that I needed something to replace the o-ring.
First I pulled the coil off and found there is an o-ring under there, i glued the coil on with silicone gasket sealant to repace the o-ring so I could use it to replace the broken one, however this didnt go to plan as the o-ring wasnt thick enough, all wasnt lost as the silicone gasket sealant was doing a better job of mounting the coil than the o-ring was so I left it in place.
I began a quick search for something else to give some resistance yet still allow the magnet to touch the coil when the nib was pressed down, i tried many things but they all failed and made it very hard to get the screen to pickup the stylus, eventually I pulled some cotton from an ear bud only a very small amount is needed and make sure you don't squish it or roll it up, leave it fluffy and wide enough so it cant fall out of place, yet thin enough so the magnet can touch the coil when pressure is applied, experiment with different amounts I managed to get it perfect on my third try.
When the time comes to reassemble I decided to glue my magnet to the nib, partially because it made it a hell of alot easier to assemble but mostly because im sure the magnet fell out of position and this was what destroyed the o-ring in the first place, Id advise against using superglue to put the cap back on as it tends to dry when youve only pushed the cap half way down.
After you're done go an enjoy your working s pen again, as you can see I edited all the photos using my modded s pen without any hassle, i'll update the thread if it ever stops working again.
And yes the pressure sensitivity is still working!
What you do with your stylus is down to you, if you choose to follow my guide you accept all resposibility for anything that happens as a result.

How To Guide Creality Ender-3 S1 Troubleshoot

Anyone has any printing issues using Creality Ender-3 s1 can post here .

1. The nozzle temperature display error
Solution: Check if the Extruder connection cable is properly connected.
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2. PLA + first layer adhesion failure
Solution: Increase the temperature to 70 Celsius degrees or exchange the Soft black magnetic sticker with the Gold PEI Magnetic sticker, both will help to improve first layer adhesion. Note: PLA+ requires a hotbed temperate of 60 – 80 Celsius degrees.
3. Failed Prints – Not extruding enough + prints Zits and Blobs
Solution: 1. The extruder may be clogged. If this happens, check that the filament is clean and the spool is dust-free. If there is a lot of dust on the reel, it can block the extruder as it accumulates inside the nozzle. 2. Not extruding enough: Screw up the adjusting clamp a bit, try again after a bed leveling.
4. “It looks like the last File was interrupted …” – How to get rid of that?
Sometimes happens if my printer is connected to the PC. or maybe the gcode is not saved completely (check the gcode file if it still has End-gcode at the end).
5. Plowing after a good first layer
You’re too close to the bed. Layer 1 is epic, layers 2-4 suck, then pretty good from 5 onwards. The plastic pushes upward. When the next layer goes down, it doesn’t have enough space, so it happens again. Normally, this clears a few layers, and you get an elephant to foot. But it can keep going depending on you level of over extrusion.
In theory, every layer after the first should be perfect but that’s not usually how it is in reality. Imperfections in the v rollers frame not dead nuts square, lead screw backlash, etc, etc all make things less than perfect as it travels up the z-axis. That’s probably why you’re seeing plowing after a good first layer. Even with ABL, what you have to do sometimes when looking for perfection is to set the z offset for the first layer, then adjust a layer or two up to make things just right. That’s assuming all the stuff you initially set is set up well and not cause for concern.
6. Can’t get corners to stay down
Try slowing down your first layer some
Try reducing airflow and/or keeping the bed a bit warmer so the corners peel less
Try bed tramming

Can someone please help!!!! Ender 3 s1 stuck on creality screen ever since i tried to update it. Ive tried all the flashing stuff, i think, if ive done it right. Im new to the 3d print game and a lot of this Klipper/Marlin is like chinese to me. Can someone please helo me get this thing going again?

HavasuDirtJunkie said:
Can someone please help!!!! Ender 3 s1 stuck on creality screen ever since i tried to update it. Ive tried all the flashing stuff, i think, if ive done it right. Im new to the 3d print game and a lot of this Klipper/Marlin is like chinese to me. Can someone please helo me get this thing going again?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't have this printer but maybe the display firmware needs to be updated to

hi, been using my new ender 3 s1 for a couple of weeks and all good, printed some things with petg and after a few hours it started jamming up, been messing around with it the last couple of days with some not really much success, i think it retracts and then gets stuck going back in, when it jams i pull out the filament and the length of it to where the step was where i think it jams is pretty much where the top of the threads of the nozzle would be, is there any way they can come out of alignment? tried dissasembling and reassembling with some filament inside so it would stay in line but still keeps jamming up

JANEFLANDERS01 said:
1. The nozzle temperature display error
Solution: Check if the Extruder connection cable is properly connected.
2. PLA + first layer adhesion failure
Solution: Increase the temperature to 70 Celsius degrees or exchange the Soft black magnetic sticker with the Gold PEI Magnetic sticker, both will help to improve first layer adhesion. Note: PLA+ requires a hotbed temperate of 60 – 80 Celsius degrees.
3. Failed Prints – Not extruding enough + prints Zits and Blobs
Solution: 1. The extruder may be clogged. If this happens, check that the filament is clean and the spool is dust-free. If there is a lot of dust on the reel, it can block the extruder as it accumulates inside the nozzle. 2. Not extruding enough: Screw up the adjusting clamp a bit, try again after a bed leveling.
4. “It looks like the last File was interrupted …” – How to get rid of that?
Sometimes happens if my printer is connected to the PC. or maybe the gcode is not saved completely (check the gcode file if it still has End-gcode at the end).
5. Plowing after a good first layer
You’re too close to the bed. Layer 1 is epic, layers 2-4 suck, then pretty good from 5 onwards. The plastic pushes upward. When the next layer goes down, it doesn’t have enough space, so it happens again. Normally, this clears a few layers, and you get an elephant to foot. But it can keep going depending on you level of over extrusion.
In theory, every layer after the first should be perfect but that’s not usually how it is in reality. Imperfections in the v rollers frame not dead nuts square, lead screw backlash, etc, etc all make things less than perfect as it travels up the z-axis. That’s probably why you’re seeing plowing after a good first layer. Even with ABL, what you have to do sometimes when looking for perfection is to set the z offset for the first layer, then adjust a layer or two up to make things just right. That’s assuming all the stuff you initially set is set up well and not cause for concern.
6. Can’t get corners to stay down
Try slowing down your first layer some
Try reducing airflow and/or keeping the bed a bit warmer so the corners peel less
Try bed tramming
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, I can't seem to solve the first issue by checking only the connection. The connection seems fine on both ends. Any other suggestion? Could this be an issue of a faulty thermistor? Also, the printer's Z axis does not move when home or bed leveling is performed.

HavasuDirtJunkie said:
Can someone please help!!!! Ender 3 s1 stuck on creality screen ever since i tried to update it. Ive tried all the flashing stuff, i think, if ive done it right. Im new to the 3d print game and a lot of this Klipper/Marlin is like chinese to me. Can someone please helo me get this thing going again?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
the onboard s1 screen isn’t kipper compatible. Once you flash to kipper the screen freezes and no longer works. This is normal. If you need a screen I suggest the sonic pad.

MY S1 was printing fine now all of a sudden when I home or try to autolevel the z axis will not try to lower. I can manually raise or lower the axis, though. I have checked all the connections and nothing appears loose. I am getting a flashing ????? on the screen with the z axis.

jneilson said:
MY S1 was printing fine now all of a sudden when I home or try to autolevel the z axis will not try to lower. I can manually raise or lower the axis, though. I have checked all the connections and nothing appears loose. I am getting a flashing ????? on the screen with the z axis.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What firmware are u using Marlin or klipper if clipper check printer.cfg for z axis settings

hello evryone , i'm having some issue with my Creality 3 ender S1 i have it for 1-2 month everithing was running smooth
but one day it started to have probleme like the one in the picture.
i have checked my level tramed my bed 100x time , made reset factory ,clenaed my bed ,my nozzle,tryed some other fillament , i checked that everthing is square and alligned
i even try to do my Gcode with : leachee , prusaslicer,crealityslicer,and cura
I don't know what to do now

I'd be happy to help, but I haven't encountered this kind of problem.
JANEFLANDERS01 said:
Anyone has any printing issues using Creality Ender-3 s1 can post here .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse