Hi,
New G1 today - With the screen slid open it feels almost loose (Eg, I can wiggle the screen about backwards and forwards [NOT slide it back into device]).
I do not find this problem when the G1 is in its PDair case however this is most probably because the leather strap that goes around the top of the phone removes any slack that it seems the G1 has.
I do not really want to return the phone as this is my 3rd handset (First 2 were faulty) and would be able to cope for it if this is a known thing that many have however if this is a significant problem I'd have no option...
Look forward to hearing from you.
Cheers.
My Dev phone has a fair amount of flex. I thought about trying to take it apart and tighten it up, but I think I'll let it get a little wear and tear before I go messing around with it like that. The only thing I am really worried about is if I ever drop it with the screen open which could result in it snapping all the way off, but in normal usage it isn't too terribly bad.
LavaChild0809 said:
New G1 today - With the screen slid open it feels almost loose (Eg, I can wiggle the screen about backwards and forwards [NOT slide it back into device]).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's normal and due to the relatively weak construction of the sliding arm design. Basically the entire screen swings and is held in place on all axes by one thin metal arm.
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Thanks for such brilliant replies - The photo inparticular is very interesting.
Only thing is reading back my description I'm not sure if I was clear.
Imagine holding the keyboard still and lifting the screen into and out of the photo... The screen has some give or flex in this axis.
Even now I'm not sure I've explained it well... Can you please confirm you understood correctly before and this behaviour is normal for a G1?
Thanks!
Basically there is no axis that the screen does not have a bit of give in, if you give enough force. Of course if the screen is just flopping around loose then that's probably a defect. But it's normal to be able to lift the screen away from the rest of the body when the screen is closed. Hopefully the next iteration will have a more robust design that attaches with atleast two points on the main body.
My above issue is when the screen is open (As in fully slid out)... I wouldn't say it is completely floppy but requires very little force to move. I don't mind if this is a design "flaw" but want to know so that I know if I need to return my G1 or not.
Thank you very much for all of your help - If you could confirm regarding my issue being when the screen is open (Fully slid out) that would be great.
Thanks again!
yea this is happening to me too, and i know its not normal bc my phones brand new and it didnt do this until the other day, and my other friends phones dont do it either
Not that this is what you want to hear....
I'd get another one.
HTC needs to get their crappy work back. I mean, I love what they do, but they don't exactly prioritize doing it well. If we keep sucking it up, they'll keep doing crappy work.
I'd say unless the screen unit is moving 1.0+ millimeters away from the casing then forget about exchanging. Some devices have looser screens than others. If your device has play in the lower left corner more than a millimeter then it is beyond the average. However, you should keep in mind that you might get a refurb in return and it could be worse or have other defects.
Related
The battery door on my vario II won't come off when I use the release button. Can't remember ever noticing how the clasp/mechanism worked, could somebody either describe it or take some photos so I can see how to remove the back door without doing any more damage?
Thanks
James
Is the vario II door the same as the TyTn door ? I can't remember, if it is I can describe and get a picture within half to 1 bour.
Mike
TyTn Battery Door catch
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Mike
Thank you! Though it doesn't look very good for finding a way to release the door without damaging it. Does it look possible to you?
cyst said:
Thank you! Though it doesn't look very good for finding a way to release the door without damaging it. Does it look possible to you?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No it does not look easy. Does the little catch still slide back and forth easily on its spring?
Mike
yes it does.
cyst said:
yes it does.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This I think is bad news cos looking at the one I've got the back off at the moment, if the catch just slips out of engaging the white sliding catch mechanism then it gets really stiff. BUT there is a tiny prong on the black sliding catch that engages the white sliding catches!! (Sounds like this may have broken off, allowing catch to move freely because it's not engaging with anything.)
1. If it's under warranty I'd take it back and have a battle about whether you were "rough" or not, or whether their catch is crap.
2. You could prize up back cover. Not a good idea I think the back cover prongs will snap off.
3. Just dont't take back off!!
4. I think it may just be possible to remove the one screw (Torx) you can access with the cover on. Prize open the case just a fraction to allow a pin/needle to be used to slide the catch and release back. With the device face down you would need to pass the pin through above the central part of the catch and move the pin from right to left. You could in theory wthen completely remove the back housing and examine the catch.
Mike
hmm...well had a brain wave and gave the phone a bit of shake. Something inside definately rattles! On closer inspection it also appears as if half the clasp is working - moving the release switch makes the door move a tiny amount.
So it looks like i'll be going into t-mobile and seeing what they say!
Thanks for the help (I may need more if i can't get it replaced!)
Solution and slight embarrassment...
So, nothing was actually wrong as such!
I had been finding that my battery was getting hotter than I was happy with, so I had removed the sticker from the front of it to allow the heat to dissapate more efficiently. This had left a sticky residue on the battery which had stuck to the battery door.
So that's me feeling a bit stupid!
Just pleased it's problem solved - good news
Mike
I had my Universal in my back pocket when I sat on the car's seat. I felt it there right away so I got off the car and checked on the Universal, the screen'd gonr white with some colored lines! The phone was fully functional except for the screen.
Today I check the coxial cable but got nothing. Tried to play around just doing things with no luck.
I was hopeless, thought I'd pay loads for the screen. I went nuts and started to smack it on my desk. Guess what happened, it worked again!
I was like shocked and happy to see the screen back on ! I'm gonna check on it now, rotate the screen and so, lets see if it stays alive.
Cheers.
Try it again mate. If it works, we can add it to the wiki
good job!, I know a story like this!
my friend was playing with his Universal while breathing some fresh air out
then suddenly...ooooooooooooooooo
the Universal made its way down from the 2nd floor...
ofcourse after collecting its pieces (SD card, Battery cover, Battery, SIM, Stylus)...
going up and turn it on and its working! but with the same problem (white screen with color lines)....
my friend was pissed off..so he began to hit the desk near the device and the screen re-worked again!
and the device never went to the service until now...
this happened 6 months before!
the only things that left..some scratches and the broken cover!
strong Universal
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A story with a happy ending. Serendipity.
V
If you take a look at the Lcd screen on a universal there are connectors around the corners of the screen (probably find a pic on ebay).
My universal had a problem with a blue tint on the screen but with a squeeze near the upper left of the screen i heard a click and the problem went away.
chances are a swift bang may be resitting the connectors. you might want to try squeezing the corners either side of the screen before resulting to more extreme techniques.
Of course you could remove the covers and be sure of getting good connections
blackest_knight said:
If you take a look at the Lcd screen on a universal there are connectors around the corners of the screen (probably find a pic on ebay).
My universal had a problem with a blue tint on the screen but with a squeeze near the upper left of the screen i heard a click and the problem went away.
chances are a swift bang may be resitting the connectors. you might want to try squeezing the corners either side of the screen before resulting to more extreme techniques.
Of course you could remove the covers and be sure of getting good connections
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just don't squeeze the corner too hard. I'm now looking for a new screen as I've got the dreaded 'bleeding ink' across the right-hand corner of mine.
Anyone know of a supplier of new screens?
MONGO Smashh!!!...............hmmmm Mongo fix
if it doubt whack the fker i say
p.s the above advice does not extended to women,children or bosses
p.p.s it can have a 50-50 chance of working on cars i find,but louder swearing does help
On an old PDA, I had one of them WiFi SD card thingies.
It was so temperamental and I thought it might have been the contacts or something.
Anyway, I took the WiFi SD apart and put the bare circuit board in the slot, it kinda got stuck, but that also made funny colours come on the screen.
Hi,
Tried to change cover according to the pdf found in a thread earlier.
Got everything in place BUT the display is nothing but black...
I reallt dont think that the display is broken. My guess is that I did something wrong trying to put back the flexible wiring to the connector.
Can anyone help me fix this problem?
Dunno what specifically to be extra careful of when doing this.
Any other idea what might be wrong?!?
Pls, any thoughts are worthful to me! Just want my beautiful "new" black magician to work again...
/Emil
Same crap happened to me last night!
I painted the cover and expected to be done in about 30 minutes.
At the end 4,5 hours of taking apart en putting it back,
just because the screen stayed blank (sometimes white, mostly black)
Anyway, I figured the problem.. so here it goes..
When you look at the yellow flatcable you notice 2 ears sticking out...
This "ears" suppose to go as far as possible
to line up with the outside line of the green board.
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Yellow = flatcable
Green = board
Black = Slot (where you stick the flat cable in)
Red = imaginary line to line up the back of the "ear" with the board
So when you cannot push enough with your fingers,
take a small screwdriver and push the ears further in the slot.
Just be careful not to break the ear...
I suppose if it break it might take some connections in
the flatcable with it, thus a new screen is needed.
Thanks for your reply!
I checked and I rearranged the flatcable into different locations but no change in a better direction. Sometimes I get colourful stripes over the screen but that is how close I get to it...
Still need some help!
Any more tips or do I have to throw away my beloved magician...?
Sometimes I get colourful stripes over the screen but that is how close I get to it...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeb, know what you mean... Have experice the same.. your screen is definitly oke, not cracked, broke or whatever..
The flat cable is not in far enough or the connection is broken on one side, which means when you put it back together the flatcable slides out a bit. Mine is broken on one side and though I don't think that a broken small clip would mean replacing the whole thing, I did tape it tight to be sure it stays there.
So mate, try again... I dunno how I have to make clear what "push harder" means.. but it's harder than you would expect with this delicate stuff.
If I have to compare the pressure applied to get the flatcable in slot I would say it comes close to pushing an IDE connection into it's slot... it's really hard...
Maybe another guide-line... When you slide in the black middle piece it should NOT touch the flat cable. (well, almost not)
Anyway, let me know in which dumpster you gonna throw it, So i pick it up and sell it back to you
I see...
I pushed the cable in so far so that the "ears" you mentioned earlier touches the white plastic where the cable goes under. Meaning you can´t physically push it any more... Do you understand what I mean? In this position the display is black. It´s when I pull out the cable one or two mm that I get the white screen with stripe on it.
Maybe it´s the broken connection you´re talking about. Have to check if I can see anything of that. Not quite sure what you mean though.
Do you mean that where the cable is connected on the other side, that is where it could have come off?
How can I check if this is the case?
Guess I must have spent 15 hours minimum at this crap now...!!!
In the process of trying to fix my loose hinge I must have broken my volume button. There is a tiny grey piece of plastic that gets pushed in. In the photo the volume button on the right is the up volume and works fine but down button doesn't have the grey piece.
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Does anybody have any ideas? I would be ok with replacing that whole little yellow switch if I have to. I have a pretty fine soldering iron tip.
help please!
If you're lucky, you might find a tact switch to replace the broken one in an electronics store or in a technical assistance for mobile phones, or you can try removing the tact switch and redo with some plastic, its not that hard to do.
Good luck.
echizen said:
If you're lucky, you might find a tact switch to replace the broken one in an electronics store or in a technical assistance for mobile phones, or you can try removing the tact switch and redo with some plastic, its not that hard to do.
Good luck.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you know of an online electronics shop that sells tact switches like this?
What do you mean by redoing with some plastic?
I have an old Palm Treo 650 that I'm going to tear apart and look for parts. I'm not at home right now but I found this picture and the buttons on the top left look very similar to the Desire Z ones.
Does anyone know if there are any electrical issues about the switch that I should consider before using a different one?
I was a cell tech for 5 years and replaces tons of volume and ptt switches. You can use a switch from any phone to replace it. Voltage doesn't matter on these and all seem to be the same size. You could probably buy a broken desire z or use one from any old phone. My old word of caution would be that some phones use ribbon (flex) wires that have a built-in switch that wouldn't be compatible for use. I know a ton of iden phones (older ones like i730/530/610) use the proper switches. Maybe a local sprint store might have some old water damged models that would be perfect. It would have to be a service center though. Good luck!
Oh and any non lead based solder will do but be sure you solder it down good. It make take a few tries and before to pull on the switch a little to make sure it was a secure burn...
Oh... lol! The treo switch will work fine as a replacement. Be sure to not burn off the the soldering pad on the board of your G2. And carefull with the removal of the treo's switch. They break easily...
Thanks so much sino8r!!!
I had an old samsung that uses the ribbon button you mention.
Now I just need to find my old Treo. I was letting my kids play with it and I thought it was sitting the the toy box. Now I have to rip apart my house looking for this thing. =)
Yeah I got non-lead based solder but I think I'll need to get a finer tip to my iron. I have the Hakko 936. Any tip recommendations?
Also, there looks to be 5 solder points on the Desire Z switch. Two on each side and on behind. The behind one isn't really shown in my picture. Do you know which solder points are the important ones and which ones are for strength?
I hope I can document my progress enough so that others with the same problem can fix their phones too!
sino8r, is this the phone you were talking about?
Why would you want to use lead free solder? Leaded solder has a lower melting point and flows much easier. I mean honestly, just use what you have on hand, but is there a reason why you would specify that he use lead free?
I found out today after taking apart my DHD's (one is north american ATT the other is from softbank Japan). The hole IS NOT just for easy access to the cover, there is in FACT a second microphone for noise cancellation, I know this was a hot topic in the past and it is true. I know because one of my phones has it and the other does not. In fact i've been told numerus times that people can hear alot of wind noise with my Softbank DHD, I never had this problem with my ATT handset.
As you can see the little black box is missing form my Japanese Phone, at the bottom of that is a small microphone
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Sh*t,my sim-free DHD doesn't have it...Oh well,I'll survive!
Nice find though man!Well done!
I don't have one either However, no one has complained of background noises when I call them.
How do you remove that cover? Mine is always bulging out.
Nice find.
My DHD doesn't have this second mic and my girlfriend is always complaining of background noise when it's windy outside.
I have it <3
That's actually a really cool feature, I am glad to see HTC putting something as simple as that in, that I am sure would actually have some effectiveness without adding much cost.
ozaghloul said:
I don't have one either However, no one has complained of background noises when I call them.
How do you remove that cover? Mine is always bulging out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you have the hole its as simple as inserting a pin and turning towards the left until the cover pops. DO NOT turn toward the right or you WILL snap the cover.
If you DONT have the hole, its a lot more difficult (I scratched my phone) but you need a VERY thin flat head screwdriver to insert into the right side of the cover and ply SLIGHTLY to get a little space *jewlers would work great* then get something larger so you dont bend the cover, pry SLOWLY until the cover pops off.
WARNING: I find this very difficult to do without scratching your phone.
PS. The reason I pulled my cover was to clean the gps contacts and bend them upward for better contact. It worked great for me so if you take your off, do yourself a favor and do this.
On one of the disassembly videos, they used a tool from inside the battery slot to push it off from inside, I certainly wouldn't attempt to remove it without a very good reason.
do you think it is possible to identify the part and retro-fit one?
rossysaurus said:
do you think it is possible to identify the part and retro-fit one?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Honestly no.