Database Users

Deactivate USB Loading

Hello,
any idea how i deactivate that stupid usb loading,
ist not the same way like the mini s
thanks

Does anyone know what this guy is talking about. I am trying to figure it out... No offence I just don't know what you mean man.
Thanx; Lew

I think he wants to stop the battery from recherging when connected to a computer thru usb.
No idea thou, I dont mind it charging...

jeezus said:
I think he wants to stop the battery from recherging when connected to a computer thru usb.
No idea thou, I dont mind it charging...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thats my question

Severok said:
ist not the same way like the mini s
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, how did you do it in the mini s?

I would guess, cutting the +5V wire from USB would help. If you don't want to cut your cable, buy an USB extension cord an cut off pin 1 from the female plug or mask it with tape.
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! !
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I don't get it, why don't you want it to charge when plugged into the usb?

pof said:
Severok said:
ist not the same way like the mini s
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, how did you do it in the mini s?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Registry
HKLM\Drivers\BuiltIn\usbfndrv
EnableUsbCharging set 1 to 0
i use ist as umts modem on my laptop when i using the train,
und the usb loading suck down my laptop very fast

so you have to disable, restart, then enable, and restart?

Charging without Sync
I would like to do the opposite.
i.e. Charge but not sync.
Anyone know whether it is possible to add a switch to allow a sync when required only?
My phone is plugged in all the time at work however active sync keeps switching on the device. i just what to sync at the end of the day.

Just disable usb in File->Connection Settings

Re: Charging without Sync
Bad_Karma said:
I would like to do the opposite.
i.e. Charge but not sync.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Disable activesync (options --> disable USB loading). It will show in grey color in the system tray.

Re: Charging without Sync
I am very interested in charging the battery sometimes without sync, how can I do that ?
You said
"
- Just disable usb in File->Connection Settings
- or Disable ActiveSync (options --> disable USB loading). It will show in grey color in the system tray.
"
but where do you do that ?? there is not such options in ActiveSync on the PocketPC.

ActiveSync on the desktop

But if I disable USB charging on my Hermes, would it still charge with the normal charger??
Thanks
Alex

Anyone tried doing either Regedit mod or cutting pin 1?
I can't find: Registry "HKLM\Drivers\BuiltIn\usbfndrv" on my device.
Cutting pin 1 does not work, in fact PC can't detect PPC when pin 1's cut.

Severok said:
Registry
HKLM\Drivers\BuiltIn\usbfndrv
EnableUsbCharging set 1 to 0
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can't find in my TyTN the registry key "usbfndrv"

Still can't get it to work.

Any progress?
We have only recently started developing for the Hermes and we need to stop it charging while we are communicating with it over USB.
It appears you have to supply 5V before you can communicate over USB (ActiveSync). This rules out cutting the cable.
The registry hack sounds ideal but there doesn't appear to be such an entry on our device.
It appears to stop charging when the device is turned off so we should be able to enable and disable charging with software.
Did anyone have any more suggestions?

You can try to create the registry key and see if it works.

HDMI

Why is my tablet not working with my HDready tv i have the right cables but it doesnt works (
someone can help me????

Is your tab connected to a power source?

TroPir said:
Is your tab connected to a power source?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes i have the original cable of Samsung :S:S

aTTiKo said:
Why is my tablet not working with my HDready tv i have the right cables but it doesnt works (
someone can help me????
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You have to give a lot more info. "It doesn't works" is not a question.

photo
slack04 said:
You have to give a lot more info. "It doesn't works" is not a question.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What information do you want ??
maybe a picture how i try it ???
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aTTiKo said:
Yes i have the original cable of Samsung :S:S
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What does the TV say (I assume your switched to the HDMI input)? No signal, or is it just black. I also assume you connected the USB end to an official power adapter (requires 2 Amps)?
I think it is best to show the steps (tedious as it may be) you followed to get the SGT connected up to your TV...
But there is no need to be giving snide remarks to forum-co-members who are trying to understand where the problem lies. Cable-setup (for as much as is visible) looks good...

Just_Another_N00b said:
What does the TV say (I assume your switched to the HDMI input)? No signal, or is it just black. I also assume you connected the USB end to an official power adapter (requires 2 Amps)?
I think it is best to show the steps (tedious as it may be) you followed to get the SGT connected up to your TV...
But there is no need to be giving snide remarks to forum-co-members who are trying to understand where the problem lies. Cable-setup (for as much as is visible) looks good...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On my tv screens is writing ( No signal )
My tv is not full hd ,is only a HDready with dvi input and i have a connection from dvi to hdmi. can this be the problem ?? or maybe the resolution of my tv ????

aTTiKo said:
On my tv screens is writing ( No signal )
My tv is not full hd ,is only a HDready with dvi input and i have a connection from dvi to hdmi. can this be the problem ?? or maybe the resolution of my tv ????
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could be the adaptation of dvi to hdmi. My first thought though is that you need an active connection. In other words a powered adapter.
The no signal notice on the TV seems to rule out it only being the wrong resolution being set, but it's possible.
As mentioned, we can't be certain if anything hardware wise is incorrect without a complete run down of what types of connections you have connected between the tab and TV. A full picture from end to end of everything between the tab and the TV would be quite a bit of help or just a list of what the connectors are and in what order you have them connected should help some more.
If you really want quick answers both pics and a list of what everything is would be perfect.
This would quickly rule out wrong types of connectors being used, but then lead to whether one part is defective if the connections are correct.
Just because connections and adapters get you from your tab to your TV doesn't mean it will or even should work.
But then if you're able to rule out a hardware mis-connection and connector failure issue, someone can jump in with software fixes, which it really becomes an issue of the more you tell, the better help you will get.
Sorry if this sounds like we're being rude asking for more and more information, but its the only way we can offer real help without being there in person and the questions from people asking for more specifics will only get longer if not enough nor specific information is given in the beginning.
It's just the way it works when trying to help someone without being there.
It's like me saying my car won't start, but here's a picture of the battery cables in the middle, but not including the connections from the beginning to the end of the cables at the battery.
People trying to help aren't mind readers and there are just to many ways to get from the tab to the TV to assume anything, its just a waste of time (probably like this post I'm making myself) to try to guess so many of us have tired of guessing and assuming things only to be wrong in the end and it really being something simple had we been told, or seen the specifics in the first place.
To be blatantly honest most people with the knowledge to help wont even waste their time to try, if you show a lack of willingness to "help them", help yourself.
Another one of my rambling posts pointing out what should be obvious to people seeking assistance
Sent from my GT-P7510 using XDA Premium HD app

Teclast X80H wifi fix

For those who feels that their Teclast X80H has weak wifi, I did the following to improve the connection.
My 2 weeks Teclast X80H wifi performance is much lower as compared to my other devices. Without line of sight, and sitting on another room at 10 m distance, I can't connect to the wifi at all.
Having inspired by the following video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3j6rOp0lvY
I decided to open my X80H to look at the antenna configuration, and possibly do the same for the tablet.
Refer to the following picture:
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Look at the top for the antenna assembly. I tested using digital multimeter, and found out that basically the ground and the antenna is shorted. Exactly like the youtube video I reference to..
Upon desoldering the ground, my wifi improves immediately.
Another thing, you will need to change the wifi settings from the windows device manager, to use only the 802.11 b/g and disable the n connections. Somehow the antenna / the wifi chip is not good enough for n connection.

Desolder the minus point?
Hello, I have a teclast X80 Pro. I would like to desolder the ground. I can see two soldering points on the tablet. One is minus and the other one is plus. Do I have to desolder the minus point?
Many thanks in advance!

With DC voltage, the negative rail is commonly called the ground. There is no earth like you have in AC voltage.

ty
thank a lot,you solved my big problem .ty. :good:

double post

Soul7777 said:
For those who feels that their Teclast X80H has weak wifi, I did the following to improve the connection.
My 2 weeks Teclast X80H wifi performance is much lower as compared to my other devices. Without line of sight, and sitting on another room at 10 m distance, I can't connect to the wifi at all.
Having inspired by the following video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3j6rOp0lvY
I decided to open my X80H to look at the antenna configuration, and possibly do the same for the tablet.
Refer to the following picture:
Look at the top for the antenna assembly. I tested using digital multimeter, and found out that basically the ground and the antenna is shorted. Exactly like the youtube video I reference to..
Upon desoldering the ground, my wifi improves immediately.
Another thing, you will need to change the wifi settings from the windows device manager, to use only the 802.11 b/g and disable the n connections. Somehow the antenna / the wifi chip is not good enough for n connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Desolder meaning remove (un-attached) the wire from board, is it ?

Hello , I have the exactly same problem with my teclast x80 plus.
Can you only cut the wire, I afraid that the hot iron damage the board.

I'm sorry to bring this up but anyone has results on the solution presented on this thread?
I opened my Teclast and the antenna installation is pretty much the same as in the picture above. I tried to pull it off but it didn't come out and I don't have a solder iron to desolder it. As the user above asked, but remains unanswered, can I just cut the antenna wire close to the solder?
(fyi, by repositioning (not desolder) the wire inside the tablet I started having better reception. Now I can go to the first floor without loosing connection but still it is slower than my other devices)
Thank you.

Hi. I did the mod yesterday. Now I have a functional wifi
thanks a lot for the info!!
But I had some problems...
1- Pay attention when you open the tablet, because I forget to remove the microSD card and the reader was forced a little and now the spring doesn't work and the SD card is not fixed I have to repair it
2- I forced a litlle in the bottom of the tablet and 2 minos scratches were made in the screen. Now the touch bottom of the tablet doesn't work and I have to replace the digitizer (I've buyed a new one. only 6 euros)
Do you know the way to replace it? I don't want to broke nothing else

I replaceed the antenna for the one of an Onda soldering it and performance improved a lot.

Dasaita - Idrive Controller?

I searched and I cannot find any information on this controller below
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I can't post a directly link to it unfortunately.
Does anyone have any experience with this?
I fell down a rabbit hole of how to hack the factory BMW idrive controller with CAN messages to use it as an HID controller...seems like a lot of work and time to get that working with an Android head unit.
However if you take a look at this controller, it seems to have 3 wires.
12v, Ground and... a signal wire? Like a stepped resistor?
This would be a big shortcut in having a BMW like controller if it would work with other Android Head Units using the steering wheel control input.
What do you guys think?

primarypostman said:
I searched and I cannot find any information on this controller below
I can't post a directly link to it unfortunately.
Does anyone have any experience with this?
I fell down a rabbit hole of how to hack the factory BMW idrive controller with CAN messages to use it as an HID controller...seems like a lot of work and time to get that working with an Android head unit.
However if you take a look at this controller, it seems to have 3 wires.
12v, Ground and... a signal wire? Like a stepped resistor?
This would be a big shortcut in having a BMW like controller if it would work with other Android Head Units using the steering wheel control input.
What do you guys think?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's hard to see but there's a fourth pin that's white. I'm guessing that it's usb for the reason that that's a repro controller made for the android i drive replacements
I would get one and try that but the price is too steep to tinker with.

primarypostman said:
12v, Ground and... a signal wire? Like a stepped resistor?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I expect that the green wire will be the connection to the ibus. Rather than being resistive, it will be sending messages (short sequences of around 8 bytes) on the ibus which will be picked up by the appropriate module in the car.

I ordered one quite some time ago to play with. If I ever recieve it from China (it's been at least 3 months) I'll let you know how it works. I have Dasaita head units but I'll chop it up and see if it works as a typical wired remote on one of my other Android head units.

lemnad said:
I ordered one quite some time ago to play with. If I ever recieve it from China (it's been at least 3 months) I'll let you know how it works. I have Dasaita head units but I'll chop it up and see if it works as a typical wired remote on one of my other Android head units.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am very interested in this project. My chinese idrive controller should have 5 pin and I would like to use with a tablet. I ordered it today so it should delivered in 2 months. Have you tried yours?

hackever said:
I am very interested in this project. My chinese idrive controller should have 5 pin and I would like to use with a tablet. I ordered it today so it should delivered in 2 months. Have you tried yours?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've got mine today. It has a stm32f103c8t6 microcontroller on the board inside. I tried hooking up its cable to a USB port, but my computer did not recognize it as a USB device, unfortunately. More digging tomorrow...
p.s. I might have fried it by applying 12V to the red and black pins to see if it runs on 12V and maybe get the buttons to light up. hehe

12V would be fine to it, as the two voltage regulators on the board are designed to go up to 40V. Keep in mind the red and WHITE wire are power and ground. Not red/black like most rational people would think
However it's bad news.. It's not USB. It'd designed to communicate over the can bus and that's what the other two wires are hooked up to. A chip that translates CAN bus messages to something the STM32 microcontroller on the board can process. I'm going to try to write new firmware to the STM32 to make it talk over USB and see if that works.
However, this is not a plug and play solution for Android head units the way it arrives from Dasaita.

Chinese Head unit yt9216c ahd 0005 v004 20190916 hifi

Its calibration is off and I go keeps starting up and system ed m wont let you open nothing is this even the right info of what's on this unit
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Steven myers said:
Its calibration is off and I go keeps starting up and system ed m wont let you open nothing is this even the right info of what's on this unitView attachment 5419041
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So what is your question?

I'm trying to hook it up to my Dell laptop it's a 15 i7 16 g ram 512 rom I'm sure it's more than capable but when I connect the laptop to the stereo through USB ports my laptop doesn't even show it connected is there a program I need or something to be able to do what I need to to root this stereo or atleast recalibrate the touch screen on the stereo through the laptop I'm newbie and am just now willing to sacrifice to learn it's kinda hard knowing something's are cheap if you screw up

Steven myers said:
I'm trying to hook it up to my Dell laptop it's a 15 i7 16 g ram 512 rom I'm sure it's more than capable but when I connect the laptop to the stereo through USB ports my laptop doesn't even show it connected is there a program I need or something to be able to do what I need to to root this stereo or atleast recalibrate the touch screen on the stereo through the laptop I'm newbie and am just now willing to sacrifice to learn it's kinda hard knowing something's are cheap if you screw up
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay Steven
Steven myers said:
I'm trying to hook it up to my Dell laptop it's a 15 i7 16 g ram 512 rom I'm sure it's more than capable but when I connect the laptop to the stereo through USB ports my laptop doesn't even show it connected is there a program I need or something to be able to do what I need to to root this stereo or atleast recalibrate the touch screen on the stereo through the laptop I'm newbie and am just now willing to sacrifice to learn it's kinda hard knowing something's are cheap if you screw up
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay Steven, let's see if we can sort this out. Before you begin, you need to come to terms with that any modification of any Android, but particularly this one - requires intermediate knowledge of PC computers and Android devices. Any modification, if done incorrectly, might cause your head unit not to work anymore.
Your computer specs do not matter and have no impact on whether you can successfully connect and communicate with your head unit. The drivers however is a different story.
Please follow my video tutorial here that will help you to connect your head unit correctly, install the drivers and make a full backup. Enable English subtitles as they are more descriptive than some of the language I'm using in the video.
The video above will help you with all your questions so make sure to follow it. As for calibrating your head unit, most of this is done from Factory Settings in the head unit, not PC. Rooting an Android is only recommended if you really know what you're doing or at the very least has a good guide as a reference. Feel free to look at my guides in my signature.
If you are still within your warranty period, I would however suggest you return your head unit, just to be on the safe side.

thans all

Hi, Extreme Mod, I'm facing similar issue, however the youtube video have been taken down, is there an alternative,

Rance4d said:
Hi, Extreme Mod, I'm facing similar issue, however the youtube video have been taken down, is there an alternative,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The link has bee updated. Check again.

Noted thanks, also, on Xygala, there are sub updates with the file extension "ota.tar" any guide on how to install those aswell,

Rance4d said:
Noted thanks, also, on Xygala, there are sub updates with the file extension "ota.tar" any guide on how to install those aswell,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry but this isn't the thread for this