For those who feels that their Teclast X80H has weak wifi, I did the following to improve the connection.
My 2 weeks Teclast X80H wifi performance is much lower as compared to my other devices. Without line of sight, and sitting on another room at 10 m distance, I can't connect to the wifi at all.
Having inspired by the following video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3j6rOp0lvY
I decided to open my X80H to look at the antenna configuration, and possibly do the same for the tablet.
Refer to the following picture:
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Look at the top for the antenna assembly. I tested using digital multimeter, and found out that basically the ground and the antenna is shorted. Exactly like the youtube video I reference to..
Upon desoldering the ground, my wifi improves immediately.
Another thing, you will need to change the wifi settings from the windows device manager, to use only the 802.11 b/g and disable the n connections. Somehow the antenna / the wifi chip is not good enough for n connection.
Desolder the minus point?
Hello, I have a teclast X80 Pro. I would like to desolder the ground. I can see two soldering points on the tablet. One is minus and the other one is plus. Do I have to desolder the minus point?
Many thanks in advance!
With DC voltage, the negative rail is commonly called the ground. There is no earth like you have in AC voltage.
ty
thank a lot,you solved my big problem .ty. :good:
double post
Soul7777 said:
For those who feels that their Teclast X80H has weak wifi, I did the following to improve the connection.
My 2 weeks Teclast X80H wifi performance is much lower as compared to my other devices. Without line of sight, and sitting on another room at 10 m distance, I can't connect to the wifi at all.
Having inspired by the following video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3j6rOp0lvY
I decided to open my X80H to look at the antenna configuration, and possibly do the same for the tablet.
Refer to the following picture:
Look at the top for the antenna assembly. I tested using digital multimeter, and found out that basically the ground and the antenna is shorted. Exactly like the youtube video I reference to..
Upon desoldering the ground, my wifi improves immediately.
Another thing, you will need to change the wifi settings from the windows device manager, to use only the 802.11 b/g and disable the n connections. Somehow the antenna / the wifi chip is not good enough for n connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Desolder meaning remove (un-attached) the wire from board, is it ?
Hello , I have the exactly same problem with my teclast x80 plus.
Can you only cut the wire, I afraid that the hot iron damage the board.
I'm sorry to bring this up but anyone has results on the solution presented on this thread?
I opened my Teclast and the antenna installation is pretty much the same as in the picture above. I tried to pull it off but it didn't come out and I don't have a solder iron to desolder it. As the user above asked, but remains unanswered, can I just cut the antenna wire close to the solder?
(fyi, by repositioning (not desolder) the wire inside the tablet I started having better reception. Now I can go to the first floor without loosing connection but still it is slower than my other devices)
Thank you.
Hi. I did the mod yesterday. Now I have a functional wifi
thanks a lot for the info!!
But I had some problems...
1- Pay attention when you open the tablet, because I forget to remove the microSD card and the reader was forced a little and now the spring doesn't work and the SD card is not fixed I have to repair it
2- I forced a litlle in the bottom of the tablet and 2 minos scratches were made in the screen. Now the touch bottom of the tablet doesn't work and I have to replace the digitizer (I've buyed a new one. only 6 euros)
Do you know the way to replace it? I don't want to broke nothing else
I replaceed the antenna for the one of an Onda soldering it and performance improved a lot.
Related
Is there any way to connect the Universal Directly to a mobile hard drive?.
to be more precise, to this one:
http://www.lacie.com/products/product.htm?pid=10669
Not Directly NO. The Universal does not have the USB Host hardware required to attach this kind of thing.
Take a look at this...
http://www.toshiba.co.jp/about/press/2002_10/pr0902.htm
Forget wires
Regards
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interesting...
but anyways there could be a kind of "piece of hardware" bewtween HD and Universal that makes the USB host function.. or maybe I am a bit lost..
gooroo said:
Take a look at this...
http://www.toshiba.co.jp/about/press/2002_10/pr0902.htm
Forget wires
Regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Universal has WIFI so youd be better off just mapping a network drive or something rather than using bluetooth which is very slow.
jimcl said:
interesting...
but anyways there could be a kind of "piece of hardware" bewtween HD and Universal that makes the USB host function.. or maybe I am a bit lost..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That would be a PC Its certainly possible that somebody could make a card for the SDIO slot that would support USB Hosting but I am not aware of one.
Better wait for cheaper 4 gigabytes sd cards
Hi jimcl,
You have the same idea as me! I was thinking of hooking up my external 60GB HDD to my Exec using just a normal camera USB cable. As you have thought, it didn't work. Wouldn't it be great if things just works the way we wanna them to be?
I assume that if it works, the battery on your Exec will dry up very quickly as the HDD draws its power from it.
Anyway, if you find anything that allows you to do that, please post it out here and share it with everyone!
Cheers!
Regards,
Johnnie
Wifi would be much better, and is already available, but they are not designed for mobile use, mains supply required.
SDIO to USB is, I think is in the pipeline, but prehaps a better solution would be SDIO to Wired Ethernet, more likely to find this for PDA's with no Wifi, and USB/Ethernet hard drives are available now. Although ethernet drives still require mains supply but USB ones would suck power to quick from the host
I think we will see host controllers as standard in future PDAs.
I know the 5Gb is not particulary good on the Toshiba device, but I doubt it will be long before the capacity increases.
I must admit, SD/MMC cards are a better way to go and I think 8gb is in the pipeline now and prices will drop over time.
of course I'll share the solution... in case I find it!
I more or less agree with all your comments... but sometimes we just want to work with the things we have, ... I already have a mobile hard drive. That's all.
Apart from 4GB SD cards - and future 8GB - maybe we could find a solution in the WIFI way, but anyways 8GB SD card sounds great - maybe not its price..
If your looking for a solution for home or car try the asus WL-HDD wireless access point / hard drive
I picked one up off ebay for 50ukp with a 60 gig drive in it,
Also lets you copy stuff from other usb devices to the hard drive (without a pc) or share other usb devices over the wireless (with new firmware from asus).
http://reviews.cnet.com/Asus_WL_HDD_2_5/4505-3382_7-31080278-2.html?tag=nav
Power wise it needs 5v @ 2 amps
Being linux based there is also some hacked firmware that will let you use other usb devices or turn it into a webserver and other things..
http://wl500g.info/
currently selling in the uk without drive for around 36ukp (scan)
RE
Yes, you can connect the Universal to the hard disk directly WITHOUT going through a router/access point using Wi-Drive, here:-
http://www.edslab.com/products.htm
Spoken to the developer 2 days back and was told that it'll be ready this coming August. It'll be released with a 30GB hard disk as this will be more affordable to the public. If you need higher capacity hard disk you'll need to install it yourself.
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took me:
5 minutes to root.
5 minutes to install CM10.
3 hours to mount it to the dashboard cause i had to cut a lot of holes in my car
But the project isn't over yet. I still need to fine tune the position of the tablet to it's sits against the frame.
Make a USB(OTG) y-cable so i can charge while mounting external storage.
Fine some more awesome applications for the car
But now to some question
Will it even be possible to charge while using USB host through a y-cable without hacking the kernel?
Sweeeeeet! Keep us posted, also would love to know how your best connectivity is. WiFi, 3 g, Bluetooth, etc.
Thank you!
I cant answer your question... but try it, it may already work. What car is that btw, was thinking on later putting my tab in my mustang, but tthe shaker audio system is wayy too good to screw up if i messed it up somehow, ill stick to that aux for now lol.
Sent either from my p113 (gtab 2 7.0) or i997 (Infuse)
P3110 does not have 3G. Just Wifi.
Sent from my GT-P3110 using xda premium
Sorry, I wasn't clear I meant 3g from teather (or 4g) Thank you anyway. keeping these numbers straight
P 3113
Hey Guys, thanks for the feedback.
Status is i got 3 things left to do now.
1: wait for my OTG cable to arrive and then install that, and hopefully i will be able to charge while using usb as host.
2: lift tablet 2 millimeters in the left side.
3: give my tablet black bezel, think solution will be electricity tape (i know it's kind of crazy to tape my brand new tablet). But after i placed the tablet where it's ought to be, the white bezel isn't as visible as on the picture above.
wowmail said:
Sweeeeeet! Keep us posted, also would love to know how your best connectivity is. WiFi, 3 g, Bluetooth, etc.
Thank you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I live i Thailand where the 3g kind of suck, but i made speed and ping test on both tablet and mobile while using tethering, and there wasn't any notable difference between the tablet and the mobile. The GPS in Galaxy tab 2 is very good when comparing with other mobiles and tablets i tried, it connects to a lot of satellites right away. Bluetooth and microphone also works fine, so seems like i havent blocked for any connectivity
Ryanscool said:
I cant answer your question... but try it, it may already work. What car is that btw, was thinking on later putting my tab in my mustang, but tthe shaker audio system is wayy too good to screw up if i messed it up somehow, ill stick to that aux for now lol.
Sent either from my p113 (gtab 2 7.0) or i997 (Infuse)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a Mitsubishi Triton GLS 2011 (aka L200), nothing special but a damn good truck for it's engine class (won the award for best high-lifted pickup).
One of the reasons i went for Tab 2 instead of Nexus beside the hassle i would have to order it from abroad, and all the problems i read people have with the tablet, is the DAC in this tablet (Wolfson). I might look into a digital audio solution later on, but for now it's analog audio transferred to the stereo. I love good audio, but not quite audiophile, but being in a vehicle i don't find it that important for now
I'll let people know if i find a solution for the charging while using USB as host!
Just a little image update after i taped the bezel black
Next up, OTG, USB hub and sd-card reader!
OMG this is really awesome. I want also want it in my car .
Really great, fantastic idea! :good:
Any news on this project ?
some pictures ?
and did you manege to made Y cable to charge TAB and have storage at sime time ?
If, is it posibile to have external USB DAC and charging at the sime time ?
(I heard thet there will be option to conect external USB dac to TAB 2 (3100,3110...)
nu!me! said:
Any news on this project ?
some pictures ?
and did you manege to made Y cable to charge TAB and have storage at sime time ?
If, is it posibile to have external USB DAC and charging at the sime time ?
(I heard thet there will be option to conect external USB dac to TAB 2 (3100,3110...)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry about my late reply, i changed the Galaxy tab 2 out with a Nexus 7 instead which didn't solve the problem though, even with Timur kernel that doesn't really charge enough using OTG/charge.
With Nexus 7 it is possible to have USB DAC, but i think it is a little overkill to be audiophile when it comes to car sound unless you have a disco on wheels.
Anyway, my solution ended up being wireless storage and i can highly recommend this: http://www.amazon.com/RAVPower®-Wireless-External-Streaming-RP-WD01/dp/B00AQUMZRA which will also work fine with the Galaxy tab 2.
To make it a better experience then make sure you have a kernel that support cifs, or at least the module and then use app like CifsManager from play store to mount the storage as local storage, that way you can access the files within any application you wish.
Will take some new photos of the setup again soon, since the old ones have been removed.
So I have the Galaxy S4 i9500. As far as I understand the NFC antenna is built on the NFC enabled batteries, however the NFC chipset/IC is built inside the mobile mainboard. At the same time there are two contact points exposed at the back of the mobile , which supposedly are for the external NFC antenna.
I have a couple of NTAG205 tags which I need to program for various tasks. What I assumed is that if I am using a battery with NFC enabled , then NFC would work, and it is working and detecting the NFC tag when it is almost tapped with the backplate of the mobile.
I wanted to try on a couple of aftermarket batteries for enhanced mAH rating and a possible longer standby time. So first I purchased a MPJ 3500mAH NFC enabled battery as shown below, with this battery the NFC is working correctly.
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Then I went on and bought the Onite 2600mAH battery with NO NFC as shown below. So expectedly the NFC was not responding to the tag proximity with this battery.
However I wanted the NFC to work with both the batteries. I assumed that since the battery just contain the antenna for NFC, so maybe I still can use the NFC functionality , with a non-NFC enabled battery coupled with an external NFC antenna. This setup was supposed to suffice the need for a missing internal antenna by placing an external NFC antenna connected to the exposed contact pins at the back. For the reason I got hold of the following :
This doubled as a wireless charging receiver and the external NFC antenna with respective contact points.
So when i put this wireless receiver on with the no NFC battery , the NFC does not work, supposedly I should be as the external NFC antenna (as visible in the photo) is working and the contact point are pressed firmly against the pins with back cover closed. But when i put the same wireless receiver with the NFC enabled battery, the NFC starts working.
So infact an external NFC antenna is not to substitute the place of a NFC enabled battery , it is just to couple with it to maybe extend the range. Is it correct. ? It tells me that an external NFC antenna is meaningless and will not work with a non-NFC battery, which somewhat kills the purpose of having external NFC antenna pins.
Has anybody tried with a similar setup and can shed some light on the subject and share your experiences.
Thanks.
same problem here
I`m having the same problem.
After changing for an alternative battery, lost NFC function.
I have bought the nillkin wireless charging with nfc, the charging works ok, but no NFC.
Anyone can help us?
hmm, thread is 4 months old. I don't want it to get lost because one day it may not be possible to buy a replacement battery with NFC. Sorry but, bump.
This guy seems to have it working but he's using a different antenna from ebay:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNrUrzUYa6k
Roughly related thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2648634&page=2
I will buy that external antenna now, ready for when I can't find NFC batteries
Continued:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2793112#post58527630
Hi, already open my XT1575 but i cannot find the antenna, can someone tell me where is it??
In avance thanks.
Pd: My moto x dont get any signal, check imei with my carrier, flash every ROM and baseband and still nothing so it has to be hardware problem.
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Did you remove the motherboard and look at the back for copper areas behind the sma connectors on the front of the motherboard? (Those painted copper areas ARE the antennas) at least 11 antennas. 4 for wilreless 5GHZ 2 for wireless 2.4 one for bluetooth two each for different cellular chips. MOTO X Style is kindof an antenna nightmare. There is no way to put in 11 short wire antennas in a phone, pretty impressive actually that the chosen solution works fine considering how close together all the antennas are and that the antennas aren't large at all. I'll put up a pic in a second.
try entering *#*#4636#*#* into your dialer. I had antenna issues as well. Turning off VoLTE Provisioned Flag - Rebooting - *#*#4636#*#* - Turning on VoLTE - Rebooting ..... did the job. You may also try rebooting your radio and selecting a different band from the three dot menu. I'm definitely no expert so this may all be luck but it worked for me.
Pic of back of motherboard, Unless I'm smoking crack all the copper rectangles are the antennas, because in the other picture I added, you can see I circled every sma on the front of the motherboard, which all already have a plug on them, which each go a few milimeters then drop through the Motherboard to directly where all these squares are.
I could be wrong but there are 11 smas on the front of the motherboard, and 11 copper rectangles opposite them on the back. I'm tring to figure out which is bluetooth myself i need to add a powerful external bluetooth antenna, not sure if I should use one of my little sma dongles or solder an external antenna to the copper square on the back. I wouldn't think of doing the soldering, except it looks upon inspection the sma that I think is the bluetooth antennna connection looks like it goes into what might be some kind of controller or decoder before dropping though to the antenna section. I don't know exactly what it is, either nothing and just the connection or possibly something to protect Bluetooth from wireless 2.4 or tell the Bluetooth not to use whatever chuck of 2.4 the wireless antennas are using currently using. I'm going to be testing a large antenna tonight on everything I think could be 2.4 till I'm sure I know which is which.
Q: for those who may know, does bluetooth generally share the wifi 2.4 antenna/s now? I ask because half of the bluetooth spec since 3.0 is essentially 802.11, bluetooth is only used for the negotiation then then if both devices support HS or HS+ they both jump to a limited form of regular 802.11. I already know 2 antennas are req for 300Mbps n.
Nevermind just found a spec sheet that says clark has a seperate antenna for bluetooth 4.1, 2 for wireless bgn and 2x2 for mimo ac, 4 for cellular and one on the actual nfc antenna on the battery for a total of 12 separate antennas in Clark. no shared antennas, and I was right the antennas are unbelievably just the copper rectangles (except the nfc one).
Anybody else catch the "2810 mAH" battery, where there's supposed to be a 3000 mah unit? Is it rated at a different voltage or something? Or are we getting gipped.
benjmiester said:
Anybody else catch the "2810 mAH" battery, where there's supposed to be a 3000 mah unit? Is it rated at a different voltage or something? Or are we getting gipped.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
2810 minimum/3000 typical is what i see
jefbal99 said:
2810 minimum/3000 typical is what i see
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK that's good. I was like Moto how could you? I guess batteries can vary a bit with temps and level of charge and all.
Sent from my XT1575 using XDA-Developers mobile app
Which Point is the GPS Contact point for Moto XP?
Pic of back of motherboard, Unless I'm smoking crack all the copper rectangles are the antennas, because in the other picture I added, you can see I circled every sma on the front of the motherboard, which all already have a plug on them, which each go a few milimeters then drop through the Motherboard to directly where all these squares are.
I could be wrong but there are 11 smas on the front of the motherboard, and 11 copper rectangles opposite them on the back. I'm tring to figure out which is bluetooth myself i need to add a powerful external bluetooth antenna, not sure if I should use one of my little sma dongles or solder an external antenna to the copper square on the back. I wouldn't think of doing the soldering, except it looks upon inspection the sma that I think is the bluetooth antennna connection looks like it goes into what might be some kind of controller or decoder before dropping though to the antenna section. I don't know exactly what it is, either nothing and just the connection or possibly something to protect Bluetooth from wireless 2.4 or tell the Bluetooth not to use whatever chuck of 2.4 the wireless antennas are using currently using. I'm going to be testing a large antenna tonight on everything I think could be 2.4 till I'm sure I know which is which.
Q: for those who may know, does bluetooth generally share the wifi 2.4 antenna/s now? I ask because half of the bluetooth spec since 3.0 is essentially 802.11, bluetooth is only used for the negotiation then then if both devices support HS or HS+ they both jump to a limited form of regular 802.11. I already know 2 antennas are req for 300Mbps n.
Nevermind just found a spec sheet that says clark has a seperate antenna for bluetooth 4.1, 2 for wireless bgn and 2x2 for mimo ac, 4 for cellular and one on the actual nfc antenna on the battery for a total of 12 separate antennas in Clark. no shared antennas, and I was right the antennas are unbelievably just the copper rectangles (except the nfc one).[/QUOTE]
After I replaced the battery, my Moto XP GPS does not work. I found out a small copper was drop out as the arrow shown in the picture, I put back might not lose that not contact with the main board, I should glue it before put back the board. I'm not sure if the arrow point is the GPS contact point or not. If it is , I will take the cover out and glue it and might solder a small wire before put back the board.
I can't upload the photo. This link might able to show photo. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1dX1xajIMc2dMFdE9uEhRXz1HjfGlaJNB
So mediatek 8127 trash.. Not rootable. Wouldn't keep the screen on unless I had otg hooked up. I tried everything. Anyways... I bought orange pi h3 and billion things for it; ATmega328P Nano V3 Controller Board for 3.2" OBD cluster project and tft 7". I bought a driver thinking that's all it was, but I just i'll have two 7" screens now. I bought;
----AUDIO---
900W DC-DC Boost Converter 8-60V to 10-120V 15A Step Up
TPA3116 D2 120W+120W Dual-channel
ATMEGA16U2 Board For Arduino Mega 2560 R3
LM1036 Tone Board Preamp Board Volume Treble Bass Amplifier Z2S8
(Havent bought yet) TDA7498 BTL 100W+100W High-power Digital Amplifier Board AMP With Radiator
--OBD2 cluster lcd k line gauges--
FTDI Basic Breakout 5V/3.3V Adjustable- Micro USB
3.5" tft (even thought I can't touch it.....)
k type thermocouple
--display--
It will be displaying mainly 1280x600? The tft that came with my dismantled board. I bought another driver and it has a 800
--Other stuff--
GPS- No just the anntena
It has wifi already
I have a BT board if it doesn't.. No clue.
Fm transmitter I have too.
Sooo I really don't know anything about rasp pi og pi arduino, but I do know 100$ double dins are trash. I am able to pull the fm transmitter and bt board off but that's it. I took 3 old laptops apart just to find one 40 pin monitor adapter..... but a "driver board"...... idk!
I guess I would really appreciate a smack in the head followed by a "none of that even works together"..
Ohh.. and I got 4 P1675 Punch 6.75" 3-Way Full-Range 440W speakers.. I think that's what i'm most excited about. All I was ever able to do with this double din I dismantled was sit in my room running it from a trickle charger trying everything to wipe it and get something worthwhile. So two questions.... Is there a pin diagram out there somewhere? Are they standard? All I know is it has an HP laptop kernel. 400mb mali something ur' other.. Mtk8127a. The board says "YLD-ANDROID-CORE-PCBV00". mediatek mt6323LGA 1644-AGTH. 70 pins only around the edges. NO markings for what.... Ohhh and the cover over the board says YLD-CORE-AD1616_MOO.
Second question With voltage boosters and amplifiers what else audio wise do I need concerning the board/module aspect.. Best method of transferring music that's playing from orange pi to, two TPA3116 D2 120W+120W Dual-channel's and the possible bridgable mono TDA7498 amp for my sub.... run wires... But from where? Point of origin... I feel like i'm missing a driver/board for audio or something. I've been looking into all of this for months, so sorry for not having a better idea, it's just like a candy store of 2$ 5000gig 8 channel yada yada out there. It's endless.....
Orange pi can flow with raspberry pi b+ for sure and most below i'd imagine and arduino touch screens and sensors couldn't care less. Does that sound right?
Thanks for any advice. Hopes this isn't in the wrong area. It is all being made into a headunit....
Ehhhh after looking into orange pi... The specs are there, but the support is like zero.... Glad it's so cheap to change my mind. I want nougat or oreo/rooted/cmXX/aosp anything flippin rooted. and not Kit Kat..... Seriously............ MHL one of my rooted phones into the mini hdmi or something like that..... Idk, but I just found out my options are pretty much if not only that of Kali linux. Super cool most of the time, but I don't forsee me sniffing packets from the prius at the red light...
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