Hi, already open my XT1575 but i cannot find the antenna, can someone tell me where is it??
In avance thanks.
Pd: My moto x dont get any signal, check imei with my carrier, flash every ROM and baseband and still nothing so it has to be hardware problem.
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Did you remove the motherboard and look at the back for copper areas behind the sma connectors on the front of the motherboard? (Those painted copper areas ARE the antennas) at least 11 antennas. 4 for wilreless 5GHZ 2 for wireless 2.4 one for bluetooth two each for different cellular chips. MOTO X Style is kindof an antenna nightmare. There is no way to put in 11 short wire antennas in a phone, pretty impressive actually that the chosen solution works fine considering how close together all the antennas are and that the antennas aren't large at all. I'll put up a pic in a second.
try entering *#*#4636#*#* into your dialer. I had antenna issues as well. Turning off VoLTE Provisioned Flag - Rebooting - *#*#4636#*#* - Turning on VoLTE - Rebooting ..... did the job. You may also try rebooting your radio and selecting a different band from the three dot menu. I'm definitely no expert so this may all be luck but it worked for me.
Pic of back of motherboard, Unless I'm smoking crack all the copper rectangles are the antennas, because in the other picture I added, you can see I circled every sma on the front of the motherboard, which all already have a plug on them, which each go a few milimeters then drop through the Motherboard to directly where all these squares are.
I could be wrong but there are 11 smas on the front of the motherboard, and 11 copper rectangles opposite them on the back. I'm tring to figure out which is bluetooth myself i need to add a powerful external bluetooth antenna, not sure if I should use one of my little sma dongles or solder an external antenna to the copper square on the back. I wouldn't think of doing the soldering, except it looks upon inspection the sma that I think is the bluetooth antennna connection looks like it goes into what might be some kind of controller or decoder before dropping though to the antenna section. I don't know exactly what it is, either nothing and just the connection or possibly something to protect Bluetooth from wireless 2.4 or tell the Bluetooth not to use whatever chuck of 2.4 the wireless antennas are using currently using. I'm going to be testing a large antenna tonight on everything I think could be 2.4 till I'm sure I know which is which.
Q: for those who may know, does bluetooth generally share the wifi 2.4 antenna/s now? I ask because half of the bluetooth spec since 3.0 is essentially 802.11, bluetooth is only used for the negotiation then then if both devices support HS or HS+ they both jump to a limited form of regular 802.11. I already know 2 antennas are req for 300Mbps n.
Nevermind just found a spec sheet that says clark has a seperate antenna for bluetooth 4.1, 2 for wireless bgn and 2x2 for mimo ac, 4 for cellular and one on the actual nfc antenna on the battery for a total of 12 separate antennas in Clark. no shared antennas, and I was right the antennas are unbelievably just the copper rectangles (except the nfc one).
Anybody else catch the "2810 mAH" battery, where there's supposed to be a 3000 mah unit? Is it rated at a different voltage or something? Or are we getting gipped.
benjmiester said:
Anybody else catch the "2810 mAH" battery, where there's supposed to be a 3000 mah unit? Is it rated at a different voltage or something? Or are we getting gipped.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
2810 minimum/3000 typical is what i see
jefbal99 said:
2810 minimum/3000 typical is what i see
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK that's good. I was like Moto how could you? I guess batteries can vary a bit with temps and level of charge and all.
Sent from my XT1575 using XDA-Developers mobile app
Which Point is the GPS Contact point for Moto XP?
Pic of back of motherboard, Unless I'm smoking crack all the copper rectangles are the antennas, because in the other picture I added, you can see I circled every sma on the front of the motherboard, which all already have a plug on them, which each go a few milimeters then drop through the Motherboard to directly where all these squares are.
I could be wrong but there are 11 smas on the front of the motherboard, and 11 copper rectangles opposite them on the back. I'm tring to figure out which is bluetooth myself i need to add a powerful external bluetooth antenna, not sure if I should use one of my little sma dongles or solder an external antenna to the copper square on the back. I wouldn't think of doing the soldering, except it looks upon inspection the sma that I think is the bluetooth antennna connection looks like it goes into what might be some kind of controller or decoder before dropping though to the antenna section. I don't know exactly what it is, either nothing and just the connection or possibly something to protect Bluetooth from wireless 2.4 or tell the Bluetooth not to use whatever chuck of 2.4 the wireless antennas are using currently using. I'm going to be testing a large antenna tonight on everything I think could be 2.4 till I'm sure I know which is which.
Q: for those who may know, does bluetooth generally share the wifi 2.4 antenna/s now? I ask because half of the bluetooth spec since 3.0 is essentially 802.11, bluetooth is only used for the negotiation then then if both devices support HS or HS+ they both jump to a limited form of regular 802.11. I already know 2 antennas are req for 300Mbps n.
Nevermind just found a spec sheet that says clark has a seperate antenna for bluetooth 4.1, 2 for wireless bgn and 2x2 for mimo ac, 4 for cellular and one on the actual nfc antenna on the battery for a total of 12 separate antennas in Clark. no shared antennas, and I was right the antennas are unbelievably just the copper rectangles (except the nfc one).[/QUOTE]
After I replaced the battery, my Moto XP GPS does not work. I found out a small copper was drop out as the arrow shown in the picture, I put back might not lose that not contact with the main board, I should glue it before put back the board. I'm not sure if the arrow point is the GPS contact point or not. If it is , I will take the cover out and glue it and might solder a small wire before put back the board.
I can't upload the photo. This link might able to show photo. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1dX1xajIMc2dMFdE9uEhRXz1HjfGlaJNB
Related
So, as the title says, i´m thinking in giving a new life to one of my HD2's, I have 3 of them and they are almost stored in a shelf.
The idea is to get this phone as a carputer, we know HD2 is still running strong thanks to the wonderfull devs here, so I think it will be a great to have it having a new life.
The basic needs will be gps, music, fm radio, obd tool ( with torque ) and phone, and if you have more ideas i will appreciate the input.
The car is vw passat 1.8T, so i´m looking for a solution that doesn´t involve using a windshield mount as it is a little far from reach for my taste, also would like to protect it from heat in summer days, so probably i will go for a vent type mounting.
These are the things I need to decide:
What rom to use - needs to work well with navigation, bluetooth calls being able to recieve calls while with navigation on without closing it due to ram starvation;
What mount to use - this one the more important, use one mount or design and build a something to dock it when in car;
what connections to put - use the 3.5 mm jack for audio or use bluetooth ( in the last case I have to buy a bluetooth reciever cause my stereo doesn´t have bluetooth )
usb otg with powered hub - yes or no
To design something specificly for HD2 or something that in the future can be used for other phones/tablets
I will add some pictures later and more stuff coming as the project develops,
Thanks
Hugo
Hi yugoport, I think if you use obd, you will need usb otg with powered hub. Therefore you will need DFT wm6.5 from here unless you can use a ubuntu distro. The android usb otg kernel does not charge.
I am no expert on any of what you are trying to do, but will subscribe and follow with interest. Good luck.
Edit; found http://www.autologicco.com/p_obd.html
this would be really cool
Robbie P said:
Hi yugoport, I think if you use obd, you will need usb otg with powered hub. Therefore you will need DFT wm6.5 from here unless you can use a ubuntu distro. The android usb otg kernel does not charge.
I am no expert on any of what you are trying to do, but will subscribe and follow with interest. Good luck.
Edit; found http://www.autologicco.com/p_obd.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks Robbie, actually I didn't know that the android USB otg didn't charge, thank you to point it out.
For OBD I have vagcom for windows PC, so the use in android will be light so I was planning to use a cheap Bluetooth adapter with torque app.
Thank you mate
Sent from my PIXELDROID HD2 using xda premium
Recently I also thought about using my HD2 for car. I am not very experienced in ROM-software, but have some ideas of hardware, esp. car handling. After surfing an Internet I have found out that original car kit price is still space shuttle level. But regular universal holders look not eough safely for me. I guess it is reasonable to buy regular battery lid for HD2( pretty cheap in the Amazon f.e.), than fix it to any PDA-Navigator holder instead of universal clamps by hidden-head screws. If you are good skilful hand maker, you can install in this lid 3 additional contacts for battery charger. But you will need proper manual for cirquit and schematics or charger specs, because this contacts connected bypass of biult in battery controller.
I agree about possibly using those 3 contacts under the battery lid for charging, and therefore using the usb port for communications only, it would be worth researching. But i never did like the idea of the original (space shuttle) car dock replacing the back cover. It did not seem secure enough and the phone could possibly be knocked off. You could strengthen a cheap universal one by putting screws into the ball joint after getting it in the right position.
Now, I am thinking about another idea. If you already used H\2 as a car GPS you definitely got the situation with overheated battery (indicates by blinking red-green LED). This case a battery controller interrupts charging and generally it's not good for the device. Especially because this season is coming. I will try to use regular cheap portable case with charger (see pic.)
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. I am going to remove battery and parts form there and place thin small cooler (from a video card or laptop) to provide good cooling. Also this case is more capable for mounting in the regular holder and can be used for the charging of the phone. It is much better than connect USB cable directly to the device. I will report my progress here.
Nice ideas flowing guys..using the contacts to charging the battery seems a great idea, I can research on this, I have some experience in electronics, also I have here a hd2 for spares that I can use to test, I will do it this week.
Regarding the place I still haven't decided if I should use a car mount or no, I only use vent mounts because I can cool it in summer, also it's closer compared to the windshield mounts.
I can try to build a special cradle for it, but I will think in it later.
I'm using clingo vent mount and its decent ,but for this I think It would be better something like the brodit mount which is a tight solution, but not integrated as I wish, so I think I will have to build a built in cradle with charging + usb otg, the direct charging of battery might be a good solution.
For the phone calls, I searched for an app that would allow to forward the call from my S3 to the HD2 via Bluetooth when I'm in the car,but there isn't such a thing, I don't have Bluetooth in my car stereo,I could buy a Bluetooth reciever and connect it to the aux, but the idea was to be able to use only the HD2 that I will leave in the car sometimes to control everything, the solution for this so far is gmate, I use it in the S3 and it works well with the HD2 also, I could set a tasker profile to disconnect the gmate from S3 and connect it to HD2 using the Bluetooth near function, then HD2 would control the phone calls.. lets see how it goes..
So I have the Galaxy S4 i9500. As far as I understand the NFC antenna is built on the NFC enabled batteries, however the NFC chipset/IC is built inside the mobile mainboard. At the same time there are two contact points exposed at the back of the mobile , which supposedly are for the external NFC antenna.
I have a couple of NTAG205 tags which I need to program for various tasks. What I assumed is that if I am using a battery with NFC enabled , then NFC would work, and it is working and detecting the NFC tag when it is almost tapped with the backplate of the mobile.
I wanted to try on a couple of aftermarket batteries for enhanced mAH rating and a possible longer standby time. So first I purchased a MPJ 3500mAH NFC enabled battery as shown below, with this battery the NFC is working correctly.
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Then I went on and bought the Onite 2600mAH battery with NO NFC as shown below. So expectedly the NFC was not responding to the tag proximity with this battery.
However I wanted the NFC to work with both the batteries. I assumed that since the battery just contain the antenna for NFC, so maybe I still can use the NFC functionality , with a non-NFC enabled battery coupled with an external NFC antenna. This setup was supposed to suffice the need for a missing internal antenna by placing an external NFC antenna connected to the exposed contact pins at the back. For the reason I got hold of the following :
This doubled as a wireless charging receiver and the external NFC antenna with respective contact points.
So when i put this wireless receiver on with the no NFC battery , the NFC does not work, supposedly I should be as the external NFC antenna (as visible in the photo) is working and the contact point are pressed firmly against the pins with back cover closed. But when i put the same wireless receiver with the NFC enabled battery, the NFC starts working.
So infact an external NFC antenna is not to substitute the place of a NFC enabled battery , it is just to couple with it to maybe extend the range. Is it correct. ? It tells me that an external NFC antenna is meaningless and will not work with a non-NFC battery, which somewhat kills the purpose of having external NFC antenna pins.
Has anybody tried with a similar setup and can shed some light on the subject and share your experiences.
Thanks.
same problem here
I`m having the same problem.
After changing for an alternative battery, lost NFC function.
I have bought the nillkin wireless charging with nfc, the charging works ok, but no NFC.
Anyone can help us?
hmm, thread is 4 months old. I don't want it to get lost because one day it may not be possible to buy a replacement battery with NFC. Sorry but, bump.
This guy seems to have it working but he's using a different antenna from ebay:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNrUrzUYa6k
Roughly related thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2648634&page=2
I will buy that external antenna now, ready for when I can't find NFC batteries
Continued:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2793112#post58527630
For those who feels that their Teclast X80H has weak wifi, I did the following to improve the connection.
My 2 weeks Teclast X80H wifi performance is much lower as compared to my other devices. Without line of sight, and sitting on another room at 10 m distance, I can't connect to the wifi at all.
Having inspired by the following video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3j6rOp0lvY
I decided to open my X80H to look at the antenna configuration, and possibly do the same for the tablet.
Refer to the following picture:
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Look at the top for the antenna assembly. I tested using digital multimeter, and found out that basically the ground and the antenna is shorted. Exactly like the youtube video I reference to..
Upon desoldering the ground, my wifi improves immediately.
Another thing, you will need to change the wifi settings from the windows device manager, to use only the 802.11 b/g and disable the n connections. Somehow the antenna / the wifi chip is not good enough for n connection.
Desolder the minus point?
Hello, I have a teclast X80 Pro. I would like to desolder the ground. I can see two soldering points on the tablet. One is minus and the other one is plus. Do I have to desolder the minus point?
Many thanks in advance!
With DC voltage, the negative rail is commonly called the ground. There is no earth like you have in AC voltage.
ty
thank a lot,you solved my big problem .ty. :good:
double post
Soul7777 said:
For those who feels that their Teclast X80H has weak wifi, I did the following to improve the connection.
My 2 weeks Teclast X80H wifi performance is much lower as compared to my other devices. Without line of sight, and sitting on another room at 10 m distance, I can't connect to the wifi at all.
Having inspired by the following video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3j6rOp0lvY
I decided to open my X80H to look at the antenna configuration, and possibly do the same for the tablet.
Refer to the following picture:
Look at the top for the antenna assembly. I tested using digital multimeter, and found out that basically the ground and the antenna is shorted. Exactly like the youtube video I reference to..
Upon desoldering the ground, my wifi improves immediately.
Another thing, you will need to change the wifi settings from the windows device manager, to use only the 802.11 b/g and disable the n connections. Somehow the antenna / the wifi chip is not good enough for n connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Desolder meaning remove (un-attached) the wire from board, is it ?
Hello , I have the exactly same problem with my teclast x80 plus.
Can you only cut the wire, I afraid that the hot iron damage the board.
I'm sorry to bring this up but anyone has results on the solution presented on this thread?
I opened my Teclast and the antenna installation is pretty much the same as in the picture above. I tried to pull it off but it didn't come out and I don't have a solder iron to desolder it. As the user above asked, but remains unanswered, can I just cut the antenna wire close to the solder?
(fyi, by repositioning (not desolder) the wire inside the tablet I started having better reception. Now I can go to the first floor without loosing connection but still it is slower than my other devices)
Thank you.
Hi. I did the mod yesterday. Now I have a functional wifi
thanks a lot for the info!!
But I had some problems...
1- Pay attention when you open the tablet, because I forget to remove the microSD card and the reader was forced a little and now the spring doesn't work and the SD card is not fixed I have to repair it
2- I forced a litlle in the bottom of the tablet and 2 minos scratches were made in the screen. Now the touch bottom of the tablet doesn't work and I have to replace the digitizer (I've buyed a new one. only 6 euros)
Do you know the way to replace it? I don't want to broke nothing else
I replaceed the antenna for the one of an Onda soldering it and performance improved a lot.
So mediatek 8127 trash.. Not rootable. Wouldn't keep the screen on unless I had otg hooked up. I tried everything. Anyways... I bought orange pi h3 and billion things for it; ATmega328P Nano V3 Controller Board for 3.2" OBD cluster project and tft 7". I bought a driver thinking that's all it was, but I just i'll have two 7" screens now. I bought;
----AUDIO---
900W DC-DC Boost Converter 8-60V to 10-120V 15A Step Up
TPA3116 D2 120W+120W Dual-channel
ATMEGA16U2 Board For Arduino Mega 2560 R3
LM1036 Tone Board Preamp Board Volume Treble Bass Amplifier Z2S8
(Havent bought yet) TDA7498 BTL 100W+100W High-power Digital Amplifier Board AMP With Radiator
--OBD2 cluster lcd k line gauges--
FTDI Basic Breakout 5V/3.3V Adjustable- Micro USB
3.5" tft (even thought I can't touch it.....)
k type thermocouple
--display--
It will be displaying mainly 1280x600? The tft that came with my dismantled board. I bought another driver and it has a 800
--Other stuff--
GPS- No just the anntena
It has wifi already
I have a BT board if it doesn't.. No clue.
Fm transmitter I have too.
Sooo I really don't know anything about rasp pi og pi arduino, but I do know 100$ double dins are trash. I am able to pull the fm transmitter and bt board off but that's it. I took 3 old laptops apart just to find one 40 pin monitor adapter..... but a "driver board"...... idk!
I guess I would really appreciate a smack in the head followed by a "none of that even works together"..
Ohh.. and I got 4 P1675 Punch 6.75" 3-Way Full-Range 440W speakers.. I think that's what i'm most excited about. All I was ever able to do with this double din I dismantled was sit in my room running it from a trickle charger trying everything to wipe it and get something worthwhile. So two questions.... Is there a pin diagram out there somewhere? Are they standard? All I know is it has an HP laptop kernel. 400mb mali something ur' other.. Mtk8127a. The board says "YLD-ANDROID-CORE-PCBV00". mediatek mt6323LGA 1644-AGTH. 70 pins only around the edges. NO markings for what.... Ohhh and the cover over the board says YLD-CORE-AD1616_MOO.
Second question With voltage boosters and amplifiers what else audio wise do I need concerning the board/module aspect.. Best method of transferring music that's playing from orange pi to, two TPA3116 D2 120W+120W Dual-channel's and the possible bridgable mono TDA7498 amp for my sub.... run wires... But from where? Point of origin... I feel like i'm missing a driver/board for audio or something. I've been looking into all of this for months, so sorry for not having a better idea, it's just like a candy store of 2$ 5000gig 8 channel yada yada out there. It's endless.....
Orange pi can flow with raspberry pi b+ for sure and most below i'd imagine and arduino touch screens and sensors couldn't care less. Does that sound right?
Thanks for any advice. Hopes this isn't in the wrong area. It is all being made into a headunit....
Ehhhh after looking into orange pi... The specs are there, but the support is like zero.... Glad it's so cheap to change my mind. I want nougat or oreo/rooted/cmXX/aosp anything flippin rooted. and not Kit Kat..... Seriously............ MHL one of my rooted phones into the mini hdmi or something like that..... Idk, but I just found out my options are pretty much if not only that of Kali linux. Super cool most of the time, but I don't forsee me sniffing packets from the prius at the red light...
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I'm planning on buying a Joying Android unit. I currently have a front-facing dash cam that has an AV port out that supports RCA in. I also have a reverse cam with RCA jacks. The Joying head unit only has 1x RCA Video-IN port ...is there anyway I can make it work so that both the reverse cam and front-facing dash cam will work with the unit?
For reference, here is the back of the Joying unit...
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Best
Dash cam on an Android unit needs to be usb I think
Verstuurd vanaf mijn ZUK Z2121 met Tapatalk
Dashcam does need to be USB indeed. What you can try is to use an "RCA to USB" converter cable. They are not that expensive. Search on Amazon, Aliexpress, eBay, etc.
Note though that AV/RCA outputs are low-res up to max 720x480 or 720x576. Any modern USB Dash cam has minimally 1280X720 or 1920x1080.
Also: You need to have a dash cam that does the recording/storage itself. USB saturarion on USB-2 happens quite often, although these low resolutions of 720x480/576 might have a way lower bandwidth usage.
Next to that: USB-2 is "half-duplex". Only one signal can travel the line, be it back or forth (like a walky-talky: "blahblahblah, over"). These units have only one USB-hub. PCs often have 2 or 3 usb hubs. In that case, if you evenly distribute your devices, the half-duplex occurs per hub, or only one hub has the saturation. Any other device using USB will break your video signal and thereby a correct video recording if you want to do that on the unit instead of on the dashcam itself.
It's a bit of a pity that the old carjoying forum no longer exists. There was a user who had 4(!) cams connected and who had nicely explained how he did that. (but of course: who needs 4 cams?).
Next to that it contained a wealth of info about dash cams and other solutions, like using a raspberry-pi 3 or pi-zero with Pi cams in combination with an apk on the unit. I have used that also for quite some time and that certainly allows for multiple high-res, high-bandwidth dash cams (pi cams) connected.
surfer63 said:
Dashcam does need to be USB indeed. What you can try is to use an "RCA to USB" converter cable. They are not that expensive. Search on Amazon, Aliexpress, eBay, etc.
Note though that AV/RCA outputs are low-res up to max 720x480 or 720x576. Any modern USB Dash cam has minimally 1280X720 or 1920x1080.
Also: You need to have a dash cam that does the recording/storage itself. USB saturarion on USB-2 happens quite often, although these low resolutions of 720x480/576 might have a way lower bandwidth usage.
Next to that: USB-2 is "half-duplex". Only one signal can travel the line, be it back or forth (like a walky-talky: "blahblahblah, over"). These units have only one USB-hub. PCs often have 2 or 3 usb hubs. In that case, if you evenly distribute your devices, the half-duplex occurs per hub, or only one hub has the saturation. Any other device using USB will break your video signal and thereby a correct video recording if you want to do that on the unit instead of on the dashcam itself.
It's a bit of a pity that the old carjoying forum no longer exists. There was a user who had 4(!) cams connected and who had nicely explained how he did that. (but of course: who needs 4 cams?).
Next to that it contained a wealth of info about dash cams and other solutions, like using a raspberry-pi 3 or pi-zero with Pi cams in combination with an apk on the unit. I have used that also for quite some time and that certainly allows for multiple high-res, high-bandwidth dash cams (pi cams) connected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What are the chances you know what the carjoying forum site was called? It might have been archived. I would LOVE to know how that guy used PI's for dashcams with an APK.
kouklo said:
What are the chances you know what the carjoying forum site was called? It might have been archived. I would LOVE to know how that guy used PI's for dashcams with an APK.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have already searched via the wayback machine, but it is really limited. You can find a few "broken" topics but not one complete thread.
the site was forum.carjoying.com.
This a a broken topic about dashcams from the wayback archive: https://web.archive.org/web/20170719201932/http://forum.carjoying.com/thread-1085-lastpost.html
surfer63 said:
Dashcam does need to be USB indeed. What you can try is to use an "RCA to USB" converter cable. They are not that expensive. Search on Amazon, Aliexpress, eBay, etc.
Note though that AV/RCA outputs are low-res up to max 720x480 or 720x576. Any modern USB Dash cam has minimally 1280X720 or 1920x1080.
Also: You need to have a dash cam that does the recording/storage itself. USB saturarion on USB-2 happens quite often, although these low resolutions of 720x480/576 might have a way lower bandwidth usage.
Next to that: USB-2 is "half-duplex". Only one signal can travel the line, be it back or forth (like a walky-talky: "blahblahblah, over"). These units have only one USB-hub. PCs often have 2 or 3 usb hubs. In that case, if you evenly distribute your devices, the half-duplex occurs per hub, or only one hub has the saturation. Any other device using USB will break your video signal and thereby a correct video recording if you want to do that on the unit instead of on the dashcam itself.
It's a bit of a pity that the old carjoying forum no longer exists. There was a user who had 4(!) cams connected and who had nicely explained how he did that. (but of course: who needs 4 cams?).
Next to that it contained a wealth of info about dash cams and other solutions, like using a raspberry-pi 3 or pi-zero with Pi cams in combination with an apk on the unit. I have used that also for quite some time and that certainly allows for multiple high-res, high-bandwidth dash cams (pi cams) connected.
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Excellent info, thanks so much!
Quick question regarding the USB-hub comment. If I use an external USB-hub to enable two USB-inputs (the dash cam via usb-RCA and the TPMS System) from a single USB plug, will they both work without interference or will I have problems too?
aerobahn said:
Excellent info, thanks so much!
Quick question regarding the USB-hub comment. If I use an external USB-hub to enable two USB-inputs (the dash cam via usb-RCA and the TPMS System) from a single USB plug, will they both work without interference or will I have problems too?
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It will have the same half-duplex problem, even if you connect 10 hubs. All hubs need to go through the single hub in the unit.
We need to wait for USB-3. It is full-duplex and so much faster. But in that case the CPU might become the bottle-neck in encoding the video.
You weren't joking about broken. LOL
I have been doing some research and found a few projects that use the PI for a dashcam or even some kind of Black Box. The issue is viewing the feed on an Android device/HU.
I'll do more research and see what I can find.