I searched and I cannot find any information on this controller below
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I can't post a directly link to it unfortunately.
Does anyone have any experience with this?
I fell down a rabbit hole of how to hack the factory BMW idrive controller with CAN messages to use it as an HID controller...seems like a lot of work and time to get that working with an Android head unit.
However if you take a look at this controller, it seems to have 3 wires.
12v, Ground and... a signal wire? Like a stepped resistor?
This would be a big shortcut in having a BMW like controller if it would work with other Android Head Units using the steering wheel control input.
What do you guys think?
primarypostman said:
I searched and I cannot find any information on this controller below
I can't post a directly link to it unfortunately.
Does anyone have any experience with this?
I fell down a rabbit hole of how to hack the factory BMW idrive controller with CAN messages to use it as an HID controller...seems like a lot of work and time to get that working with an Android head unit.
However if you take a look at this controller, it seems to have 3 wires.
12v, Ground and... a signal wire? Like a stepped resistor?
This would be a big shortcut in having a BMW like controller if it would work with other Android Head Units using the steering wheel control input.
What do you guys think?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's hard to see but there's a fourth pin that's white. I'm guessing that it's usb for the reason that that's a repro controller made for the android i drive replacements
I would get one and try that but the price is too steep to tinker with.
primarypostman said:
12v, Ground and... a signal wire? Like a stepped resistor?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I expect that the green wire will be the connection to the ibus. Rather than being resistive, it will be sending messages (short sequences of around 8 bytes) on the ibus which will be picked up by the appropriate module in the car.
I ordered one quite some time ago to play with. If I ever recieve it from China (it's been at least 3 months) I'll let you know how it works. I have Dasaita head units but I'll chop it up and see if it works as a typical wired remote on one of my other Android head units.
lemnad said:
I ordered one quite some time ago to play with. If I ever recieve it from China (it's been at least 3 months) I'll let you know how it works. I have Dasaita head units but I'll chop it up and see if it works as a typical wired remote on one of my other Android head units.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am very interested in this project. My chinese idrive controller should have 5 pin and I would like to use with a tablet. I ordered it today so it should delivered in 2 months. Have you tried yours?
hackever said:
I am very interested in this project. My chinese idrive controller should have 5 pin and I would like to use with a tablet. I ordered it today so it should delivered in 2 months. Have you tried yours?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've got mine today. It has a stm32f103c8t6 microcontroller on the board inside. I tried hooking up its cable to a USB port, but my computer did not recognize it as a USB device, unfortunately. More digging tomorrow...
p.s. I might have fried it by applying 12V to the red and black pins to see if it runs on 12V and maybe get the buttons to light up. hehe
12V would be fine to it, as the two voltage regulators on the board are designed to go up to 40V. Keep in mind the red and WHITE wire are power and ground. Not red/black like most rational people would think
However it's bad news.. It's not USB. It'd designed to communicate over the can bus and that's what the other two wires are hooked up to. A chip that translates CAN bus messages to something the STM32 microcontroller on the board can process. I'm going to try to write new firmware to the STM32 to make it talk over USB and see if that works.
However, this is not a plug and play solution for Android head units the way it arrives from Dasaita.
Related
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took me:
5 minutes to root.
5 minutes to install CM10.
3 hours to mount it to the dashboard cause i had to cut a lot of holes in my car
But the project isn't over yet. I still need to fine tune the position of the tablet to it's sits against the frame.
Make a USB(OTG) y-cable so i can charge while mounting external storage.
Fine some more awesome applications for the car
But now to some question
Will it even be possible to charge while using USB host through a y-cable without hacking the kernel?
Sweeeeeet! Keep us posted, also would love to know how your best connectivity is. WiFi, 3 g, Bluetooth, etc.
Thank you!
I cant answer your question... but try it, it may already work. What car is that btw, was thinking on later putting my tab in my mustang, but tthe shaker audio system is wayy too good to screw up if i messed it up somehow, ill stick to that aux for now lol.
Sent either from my p113 (gtab 2 7.0) or i997 (Infuse)
P3110 does not have 3G. Just Wifi.
Sent from my GT-P3110 using xda premium
Sorry, I wasn't clear I meant 3g from teather (or 4g) Thank you anyway. keeping these numbers straight
P 3113
Hey Guys, thanks for the feedback.
Status is i got 3 things left to do now.
1: wait for my OTG cable to arrive and then install that, and hopefully i will be able to charge while using usb as host.
2: lift tablet 2 millimeters in the left side.
3: give my tablet black bezel, think solution will be electricity tape (i know it's kind of crazy to tape my brand new tablet). But after i placed the tablet where it's ought to be, the white bezel isn't as visible as on the picture above.
wowmail said:
Sweeeeeet! Keep us posted, also would love to know how your best connectivity is. WiFi, 3 g, Bluetooth, etc.
Thank you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I live i Thailand where the 3g kind of suck, but i made speed and ping test on both tablet and mobile while using tethering, and there wasn't any notable difference between the tablet and the mobile. The GPS in Galaxy tab 2 is very good when comparing with other mobiles and tablets i tried, it connects to a lot of satellites right away. Bluetooth and microphone also works fine, so seems like i havent blocked for any connectivity
Ryanscool said:
I cant answer your question... but try it, it may already work. What car is that btw, was thinking on later putting my tab in my mustang, but tthe shaker audio system is wayy too good to screw up if i messed it up somehow, ill stick to that aux for now lol.
Sent either from my p113 (gtab 2 7.0) or i997 (Infuse)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a Mitsubishi Triton GLS 2011 (aka L200), nothing special but a damn good truck for it's engine class (won the award for best high-lifted pickup).
One of the reasons i went for Tab 2 instead of Nexus beside the hassle i would have to order it from abroad, and all the problems i read people have with the tablet, is the DAC in this tablet (Wolfson). I might look into a digital audio solution later on, but for now it's analog audio transferred to the stereo. I love good audio, but not quite audiophile, but being in a vehicle i don't find it that important for now
I'll let people know if i find a solution for the charging while using USB as host!
Just a little image update after i taped the bezel black
Next up, OTG, USB hub and sd-card reader!
OMG this is really awesome. I want also want it in my car .
Really great, fantastic idea! :good:
Any news on this project ?
some pictures ?
and did you manege to made Y cable to charge TAB and have storage at sime time ?
If, is it posibile to have external USB DAC and charging at the sime time ?
(I heard thet there will be option to conect external USB dac to TAB 2 (3100,3110...)
nu!me! said:
Any news on this project ?
some pictures ?
and did you manege to made Y cable to charge TAB and have storage at sime time ?
If, is it posibile to have external USB DAC and charging at the sime time ?
(I heard thet there will be option to conect external USB dac to TAB 2 (3100,3110...)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry about my late reply, i changed the Galaxy tab 2 out with a Nexus 7 instead which didn't solve the problem though, even with Timur kernel that doesn't really charge enough using OTG/charge.
With Nexus 7 it is possible to have USB DAC, but i think it is a little overkill to be audiophile when it comes to car sound unless you have a disco on wheels.
Anyway, my solution ended up being wireless storage and i can highly recommend this: http://www.amazon.com/RAVPower®-Wireless-External-Streaming-RP-WD01/dp/B00AQUMZRA which will also work fine with the Galaxy tab 2.
To make it a better experience then make sure you have a kernel that support cifs, or at least the module and then use app like CifsManager from play store to mount the storage as local storage, that way you can access the files within any application you wish.
Will take some new photos of the setup again soon, since the old ones have been removed.
So, as the title says, i´m thinking in giving a new life to one of my HD2's, I have 3 of them and they are almost stored in a shelf.
The idea is to get this phone as a carputer, we know HD2 is still running strong thanks to the wonderfull devs here, so I think it will be a great to have it having a new life.
The basic needs will be gps, music, fm radio, obd tool ( with torque ) and phone, and if you have more ideas i will appreciate the input.
The car is vw passat 1.8T, so i´m looking for a solution that doesn´t involve using a windshield mount as it is a little far from reach for my taste, also would like to protect it from heat in summer days, so probably i will go for a vent type mounting.
These are the things I need to decide:
What rom to use - needs to work well with navigation, bluetooth calls being able to recieve calls while with navigation on without closing it due to ram starvation;
What mount to use - this one the more important, use one mount or design and build a something to dock it when in car;
what connections to put - use the 3.5 mm jack for audio or use bluetooth ( in the last case I have to buy a bluetooth reciever cause my stereo doesn´t have bluetooth )
usb otg with powered hub - yes or no
To design something specificly for HD2 or something that in the future can be used for other phones/tablets
I will add some pictures later and more stuff coming as the project develops,
Thanks
Hugo
Hi yugoport, I think if you use obd, you will need usb otg with powered hub. Therefore you will need DFT wm6.5 from here unless you can use a ubuntu distro. The android usb otg kernel does not charge.
I am no expert on any of what you are trying to do, but will subscribe and follow with interest. Good luck.
Edit; found http://www.autologicco.com/p_obd.html
this would be really cool
Robbie P said:
Hi yugoport, I think if you use obd, you will need usb otg with powered hub. Therefore you will need DFT wm6.5 from here unless you can use a ubuntu distro. The android usb otg kernel does not charge.
I am no expert on any of what you are trying to do, but will subscribe and follow with interest. Good luck.
Edit; found http://www.autologicco.com/p_obd.html
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks Robbie, actually I didn't know that the android USB otg didn't charge, thank you to point it out.
For OBD I have vagcom for windows PC, so the use in android will be light so I was planning to use a cheap Bluetooth adapter with torque app.
Thank you mate
Sent from my PIXELDROID HD2 using xda premium
Recently I also thought about using my HD2 for car. I am not very experienced in ROM-software, but have some ideas of hardware, esp. car handling. After surfing an Internet I have found out that original car kit price is still space shuttle level. But regular universal holders look not eough safely for me. I guess it is reasonable to buy regular battery lid for HD2( pretty cheap in the Amazon f.e.), than fix it to any PDA-Navigator holder instead of universal clamps by hidden-head screws. If you are good skilful hand maker, you can install in this lid 3 additional contacts for battery charger. But you will need proper manual for cirquit and schematics or charger specs, because this contacts connected bypass of biult in battery controller.
I agree about possibly using those 3 contacts under the battery lid for charging, and therefore using the usb port for communications only, it would be worth researching. But i never did like the idea of the original (space shuttle) car dock replacing the back cover. It did not seem secure enough and the phone could possibly be knocked off. You could strengthen a cheap universal one by putting screws into the ball joint after getting it in the right position.
Now, I am thinking about another idea. If you already used H\2 as a car GPS you definitely got the situation with overheated battery (indicates by blinking red-green LED). This case a battery controller interrupts charging and generally it's not good for the device. Especially because this season is coming. I will try to use regular cheap portable case with charger (see pic.)
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. I am going to remove battery and parts form there and place thin small cooler (from a video card or laptop) to provide good cooling. Also this case is more capable for mounting in the regular holder and can be used for the charging of the phone. It is much better than connect USB cable directly to the device. I will report my progress here.
Nice ideas flowing guys..using the contacts to charging the battery seems a great idea, I can research on this, I have some experience in electronics, also I have here a hd2 for spares that I can use to test, I will do it this week.
Regarding the place I still haven't decided if I should use a car mount or no, I only use vent mounts because I can cool it in summer, also it's closer compared to the windshield mounts.
I can try to build a special cradle for it, but I will think in it later.
I'm using clingo vent mount and its decent ,but for this I think It would be better something like the brodit mount which is a tight solution, but not integrated as I wish, so I think I will have to build a built in cradle with charging + usb otg, the direct charging of battery might be a good solution.
For the phone calls, I searched for an app that would allow to forward the call from my S3 to the HD2 via Bluetooth when I'm in the car,but there isn't such a thing, I don't have Bluetooth in my car stereo,I could buy a Bluetooth reciever and connect it to the aux, but the idea was to be able to use only the HD2 that I will leave in the car sometimes to control everything, the solution for this so far is gmate, I use it in the S3 and it works well with the HD2 also, I could set a tasker profile to disconnect the gmate from S3 and connect it to HD2 using the Bluetooth near function, then HD2 would control the phone calls.. lets see how it goes..
So mediatek 8127 trash.. Not rootable. Wouldn't keep the screen on unless I had otg hooked up. I tried everything. Anyways... I bought orange pi h3 and billion things for it; ATmega328P Nano V3 Controller Board for 3.2" OBD cluster project and tft 7". I bought a driver thinking that's all it was, but I just i'll have two 7" screens now. I bought;
----AUDIO---
900W DC-DC Boost Converter 8-60V to 10-120V 15A Step Up
TPA3116 D2 120W+120W Dual-channel
ATMEGA16U2 Board For Arduino Mega 2560 R3
LM1036 Tone Board Preamp Board Volume Treble Bass Amplifier Z2S8
(Havent bought yet) TDA7498 BTL 100W+100W High-power Digital Amplifier Board AMP With Radiator
--OBD2 cluster lcd k line gauges--
FTDI Basic Breakout 5V/3.3V Adjustable- Micro USB
3.5" tft (even thought I can't touch it.....)
k type thermocouple
--display--
It will be displaying mainly 1280x600? The tft that came with my dismantled board. I bought another driver and it has a 800
--Other stuff--
GPS- No just the anntena
It has wifi already
I have a BT board if it doesn't.. No clue.
Fm transmitter I have too.
Sooo I really don't know anything about rasp pi og pi arduino, but I do know 100$ double dins are trash. I am able to pull the fm transmitter and bt board off but that's it. I took 3 old laptops apart just to find one 40 pin monitor adapter..... but a "driver board"...... idk!
I guess I would really appreciate a smack in the head followed by a "none of that even works together"..
Ohh.. and I got 4 P1675 Punch 6.75" 3-Way Full-Range 440W speakers.. I think that's what i'm most excited about. All I was ever able to do with this double din I dismantled was sit in my room running it from a trickle charger trying everything to wipe it and get something worthwhile. So two questions.... Is there a pin diagram out there somewhere? Are they standard? All I know is it has an HP laptop kernel. 400mb mali something ur' other.. Mtk8127a. The board says "YLD-ANDROID-CORE-PCBV00". mediatek mt6323LGA 1644-AGTH. 70 pins only around the edges. NO markings for what.... Ohhh and the cover over the board says YLD-CORE-AD1616_MOO.
Second question With voltage boosters and amplifiers what else audio wise do I need concerning the board/module aspect.. Best method of transferring music that's playing from orange pi to, two TPA3116 D2 120W+120W Dual-channel's and the possible bridgable mono TDA7498 amp for my sub.... run wires... But from where? Point of origin... I feel like i'm missing a driver/board for audio or something. I've been looking into all of this for months, so sorry for not having a better idea, it's just like a candy store of 2$ 5000gig 8 channel yada yada out there. It's endless.....
Orange pi can flow with raspberry pi b+ for sure and most below i'd imagine and arduino touch screens and sensors couldn't care less. Does that sound right?
Thanks for any advice. Hopes this isn't in the wrong area. It is all being made into a headunit....
Ehhhh after looking into orange pi... The specs are there, but the support is like zero.... Glad it's so cheap to change my mind. I want nougat or oreo/rooted/cmXX/aosp anything flippin rooted. and not Kit Kat..... Seriously............ MHL one of my rooted phones into the mini hdmi or something like that..... Idk, but I just found out my options are pretty much if not only that of Kali linux. Super cool most of the time, but I don't forsee me sniffing packets from the prius at the red light...
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I'm planning on buying a Joying Android unit. I currently have a front-facing dash cam that has an AV port out that supports RCA in. I also have a reverse cam with RCA jacks. The Joying head unit only has 1x RCA Video-IN port ...is there anyway I can make it work so that both the reverse cam and front-facing dash cam will work with the unit?
For reference, here is the back of the Joying unit...
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Best
Dash cam on an Android unit needs to be usb I think
Verstuurd vanaf mijn ZUK Z2121 met Tapatalk
Dashcam does need to be USB indeed. What you can try is to use an "RCA to USB" converter cable. They are not that expensive. Search on Amazon, Aliexpress, eBay, etc.
Note though that AV/RCA outputs are low-res up to max 720x480 or 720x576. Any modern USB Dash cam has minimally 1280X720 or 1920x1080.
Also: You need to have a dash cam that does the recording/storage itself. USB saturarion on USB-2 happens quite often, although these low resolutions of 720x480/576 might have a way lower bandwidth usage.
Next to that: USB-2 is "half-duplex". Only one signal can travel the line, be it back or forth (like a walky-talky: "blahblahblah, over"). These units have only one USB-hub. PCs often have 2 or 3 usb hubs. In that case, if you evenly distribute your devices, the half-duplex occurs per hub, or only one hub has the saturation. Any other device using USB will break your video signal and thereby a correct video recording if you want to do that on the unit instead of on the dashcam itself.
It's a bit of a pity that the old carjoying forum no longer exists. There was a user who had 4(!) cams connected and who had nicely explained how he did that. (but of course: who needs 4 cams?).
Next to that it contained a wealth of info about dash cams and other solutions, like using a raspberry-pi 3 or pi-zero with Pi cams in combination with an apk on the unit. I have used that also for quite some time and that certainly allows for multiple high-res, high-bandwidth dash cams (pi cams) connected.
surfer63 said:
Dashcam does need to be USB indeed. What you can try is to use an "RCA to USB" converter cable. They are not that expensive. Search on Amazon, Aliexpress, eBay, etc.
Note though that AV/RCA outputs are low-res up to max 720x480 or 720x576. Any modern USB Dash cam has minimally 1280X720 or 1920x1080.
Also: You need to have a dash cam that does the recording/storage itself. USB saturarion on USB-2 happens quite often, although these low resolutions of 720x480/576 might have a way lower bandwidth usage.
Next to that: USB-2 is "half-duplex". Only one signal can travel the line, be it back or forth (like a walky-talky: "blahblahblah, over"). These units have only one USB-hub. PCs often have 2 or 3 usb hubs. In that case, if you evenly distribute your devices, the half-duplex occurs per hub, or only one hub has the saturation. Any other device using USB will break your video signal and thereby a correct video recording if you want to do that on the unit instead of on the dashcam itself.
It's a bit of a pity that the old carjoying forum no longer exists. There was a user who had 4(!) cams connected and who had nicely explained how he did that. (but of course: who needs 4 cams?).
Next to that it contained a wealth of info about dash cams and other solutions, like using a raspberry-pi 3 or pi-zero with Pi cams in combination with an apk on the unit. I have used that also for quite some time and that certainly allows for multiple high-res, high-bandwidth dash cams (pi cams) connected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What are the chances you know what the carjoying forum site was called? It might have been archived. I would LOVE to know how that guy used PI's for dashcams with an APK.
kouklo said:
What are the chances you know what the carjoying forum site was called? It might have been archived. I would LOVE to know how that guy used PI's for dashcams with an APK.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have already searched via the wayback machine, but it is really limited. You can find a few "broken" topics but not one complete thread.
the site was forum.carjoying.com.
This a a broken topic about dashcams from the wayback archive: https://web.archive.org/web/20170719201932/http://forum.carjoying.com/thread-1085-lastpost.html
surfer63 said:
Dashcam does need to be USB indeed. What you can try is to use an "RCA to USB" converter cable. They are not that expensive. Search on Amazon, Aliexpress, eBay, etc.
Note though that AV/RCA outputs are low-res up to max 720x480 or 720x576. Any modern USB Dash cam has minimally 1280X720 or 1920x1080.
Also: You need to have a dash cam that does the recording/storage itself. USB saturarion on USB-2 happens quite often, although these low resolutions of 720x480/576 might have a way lower bandwidth usage.
Next to that: USB-2 is "half-duplex". Only one signal can travel the line, be it back or forth (like a walky-talky: "blahblahblah, over"). These units have only one USB-hub. PCs often have 2 or 3 usb hubs. In that case, if you evenly distribute your devices, the half-duplex occurs per hub, or only one hub has the saturation. Any other device using USB will break your video signal and thereby a correct video recording if you want to do that on the unit instead of on the dashcam itself.
It's a bit of a pity that the old carjoying forum no longer exists. There was a user who had 4(!) cams connected and who had nicely explained how he did that. (but of course: who needs 4 cams?).
Next to that it contained a wealth of info about dash cams and other solutions, like using a raspberry-pi 3 or pi-zero with Pi cams in combination with an apk on the unit. I have used that also for quite some time and that certainly allows for multiple high-res, high-bandwidth dash cams (pi cams) connected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Excellent info, thanks so much!
Quick question regarding the USB-hub comment. If I use an external USB-hub to enable two USB-inputs (the dash cam via usb-RCA and the TPMS System) from a single USB plug, will they both work without interference or will I have problems too?
aerobahn said:
Excellent info, thanks so much!
Quick question regarding the USB-hub comment. If I use an external USB-hub to enable two USB-inputs (the dash cam via usb-RCA and the TPMS System) from a single USB plug, will they both work without interference or will I have problems too?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It will have the same half-duplex problem, even if you connect 10 hubs. All hubs need to go through the single hub in the unit.
We need to wait for USB-3. It is full-duplex and so much faster. But in that case the CPU might become the bottle-neck in encoding the video.
You weren't joking about broken. LOL
I have been doing some research and found a few projects that use the PI for a dashcam or even some kind of Black Box. The issue is viewing the feed on an Android device/HU.
I'll do more research and see what I can find.
Hi,
I recently upgraded my AUDI A3 2015 with Android Head Unit and external camera purchased through AliExpress, my reverse camera is showing black screen, although it detects the reverse mode but no image. Please help.
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Hi, I think that multimedia is too weak for your car radio, but we can try to fix...
You must find a hidden menu/factory menu/admin menu (asks a pin code to get inside) where infotainment menu is and tweak settings there. If this multimedia has canbus device attached to it make sure to find correct settings for your model of car (PSA settings in hidden menu/can type/bus).
Anton TNT said:
Hi, I think that multimedia is too weak for your car radio, but we can try to fix...
You must find a hidden menu/factory menu/admin menu (asks a pin code to get inside) where infotainment menu is and tweak settings there. If this multimedia has canbus device attached to it make sure to find correct settings for your model of car (PSA settings in hidden menu/can type/bus).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks Anton, tried hidden factory settings, but could not find the right combination. Trying various options but no luck. Will share setting screens if that could help.
Please make a whole video of your admin/factory settings
Somehow my head unit is not turning on, green light is power, red light flashes when loading android and becomes stable when booted normally. Right now red light not turning on. Need help in flashing stock img provided by supplier.
ravimahendru said:
Somehow my head unit is not turning on, green light is power, red light flashes when loading android and becomes stable when booted normally. Right now red light not turning on. Need help in flashing stock img provided by supplier.
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This loose red wire near cables harness that looks disconnected what is it for? I think you must connect it if it connector for some kind amplifier or antenna, and what is this RCA yellow jack for ?
Anton TNT said:
Hi, I think that multimedia is too weak for your car radio, but we can try to fix...
You must find a hidden menu/factory menu/admin menu (asks a pin code to get inside) where infotainment menu is and tweak settings there. If this multimedia has canbus device attached to it make sure to find correct settings for your model of car (PSA settings in hidden menu/can type/bus).
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Thanks Anton, I actually upgraded software provided by supplier, cable connections and other stuff is ok, but my device is unable to load android, I need help in flashing the *.img file provided by supplier.
ravimahendru said:
Thanks Anton, I actually upgraded software provided by supplier, cable connections and other stuff is ok, but my device is unable to load android, I need help in flashing the *.img file provided by supplier.
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Why flash, just insert old img and get back old system, then try again with updates but I suggest doing it with adb and with connection to a PC
Thanks Anton for your suggestion, device is having some hardware issue, seems USB is not working, tried connecting my phone for charging but USB did not work, so unable to connect to PC, have asked suppiler for the replacement.
ravimahendru said:
Thanks Anton for your suggestion, device is having some hardware issue, seems USB is not working, tried connecting my phone for charging but USB did not work, so unable to connect to PC, have asked suppiler for the replacement.
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I think that some hardware like gps antenna or some other hardware is not functinal and causing problems. Get a skilled technician to look motherboard and device it self. As far as peripheral ports like USB and othe ports, you can test them on your own, just unplug one by one while device is on and see if device will stabilize its self.