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I've had my Incredible for a month or two now, and rooted it the day I picked it up. I've dug all over this forum learning the ins and outs of this phone, and figured I'd finally give something back.
Car audio has always been a big hobby of mine, and I actually competed in sound quality a couple of years back. So, while researching the Incredible, as soon as I discovered the tv-out cable, my first thought was to feed it into my car. I was very proud of myself thinking I was the first person to come up with this...until I started searching, and realized I wasn't. At all.
Either way, it was hard finding info on this solution because google pulls nothing but details about the cable, and very little on the solution, so I figured I'd put what I've got here.
I have a 2005 Honda Accord with the factory 6 disc changer in the dash. The dual zone climate controls are integrated into the factory radio, so if you remove it, you lose that functionality (which I didn't want to do). There is a large storage pocket that is removable underneath the radio that allows for an aftermarket head unit, and lower dash kits are available for doing that.
I've gotten out of competition, and just have the factory deck now, but wanted a way to play music from any phone I had. PAC makes auxiliary input adapters that integrate with factory radios for just about any car. I bought one for my car, installed it, and can now plug in anything via 3.5mm headphone jack or by RCA.
When I got the phone, my first idea was a car dock where I could plug in the headphone jack and then charge it, but I hated the idea of having to deal with two cables every time. I had started off using CM7, liked it, but read people complaining about no tv-out functionality, which I could care less about, but the option being available meant that audio going out would be no problem, and since the cable has another input for charging, I could have a one plug solution, and so the project began.
I flashed my phone to SR4.0 to have the tv-out capability, (and love the ROM. I like a lot of the more sense based layouts)
First, the cable. The phone only recognizes tv-out when the video input is connected. This posed a problem for me, as I only needed audio. If the solution has been posted before, I couldn't find it, but if you take a female rca jack, or use a male rca jack with a coupler, and short the signal and ground wires together, the phone goes into tv-out mode and will send audio. I had a cheap pair of radio shack rca's laying around, and cut one end off to test this, and it worked flawlessly. In car audio, they're called muting plugs, and are used to troubleshoot engine noise issues.
Second, the charger. I didn't want to use my car charger port, so after some light research to make sure I wasn't missing anything, I confirmed you can take a car charger apart, solder a ground wire to the wire connected to the metal that sticks out of the side of the charger, and solder a power wire to the part going to the tip. On the charger I used, a fuse was inline, and if you want to retain that, you can use a large zip tie and heatshrink to retain it. I didn't b/c the charger was cheap, and if something was to ever short, it'd burn that out first. Regardless, solder leads to power and ground, and then tap into the wiring going into your factory accessory outlet (or cigarette lighter). Use a test light or multimeter to determine power from ground.
Third, the dock. Google sucks at finding good horizontal docking solutions. My first idea was to buy a horizontal cradle and fab it into the lower dash kit, but that's a lot of cutting, as well as having to remove the usb plug on the dock (because it's not extUSB), and really at the end of the day, you just need an L shaped piece of plastic with a hole cut out where the usb is. I was looking at Droid X docks with my friend, and noticed there are a lot of swivel mount car docks for that phone, and thought that'd be a lot easier to do. Further searching led me to proclip.com where they have docks for about any mobile device. *I tried posting a link, but spam got me* I found them while searching for docks thanks to someone on an ATV forum linking the site. It seems people are using their droids for navigation while going off-roading, and use these docks to keep them anchored.
On the quick search at the bottom of the main page, check the box saying you already have a mount, then under holders, select HTC Incredible to pull up the docks. I purchased 511147, holder with tilt swivel, and received it two days after ordering. It's very rugged, and the swivel seems well built. The mount on the right provides room to comfortably plug in a charger or cable, and I'm going to fab a piece to attach the tv-out cable and charger, and route the wire behind it and through the kit. The dock will be attached to the lower dash kit, and a little ABS plastic, epoxy putty, and paint will smooth over any seams. The other nice thing about this for me is the lower dash kit has a cutout for an aftermarket radio, and a spare pocket underneath. Using the dock, I still have full use of the pocket.
If you don't want to do this much custom fabrication, you can use one of their solutions. On the main page, select your car make and model, and they will provide you with the mounts they have. Their mounts attach to the car without screws or tape, and then from there you select your dock, which attaches to the mount.
Sorry this is long and somewhat rambly, but I've seen a lot of posts and questions asking about this kind of solution, with no clear definitive answer. I drove to work this morning listening to pandora via the tv out cable on my factory radio, with the phone being charged and zero problems.
Another side note, there is an adapter for the HTC Hero that is an extUSB plug that goes into a piece that has extUSB input, power input, and 3.5mm out. It's a lot more ideal for this solution, but doesn't work. The extUSB plug is shaped differently, and the pinouts are laid out differently in the plug. If someone was good at soldering, it'd make an even cleaner solution, as you could rout the adapter behind the dash and plug everything into it.
If someone was interested in swapping the ends on that adapter with one that'd fit the Incredible, I'd be willing to pay for it, just for the lower profile and aesthetics of what I'm doing.
I'll update this with pictures once I get it all installed. Hopefully this is helpful, and I didn't just waste a bunch of time typing what was in another post that I've been unable to find.
Thanks for wasting 5 minutes of my life. Just kidding. Thanks for the write up. Can't wait to see pictures.
Sent from my ADR6300 using XDA App
I was going to wait and reply later, But I have been reading up on this subject, There are a lot of people using pads and removing there radios. So to see a phone doing this hope the pics are good
It'll be next week before I can get any up, headed out of town for the weekend tomorrow, but will grab pics of what I have now and will show the install progress as I go.
Hopefully I can get to 11 posts between now and then so I can throw up pics and links to what's going on.
I've previous completed induction charging mods for my Nexus S, Droid, and Nook Color. My previous mod for my Nook has left a lot to be desired, though.
I picked up a iPhone 3GS Powermat for clearance a while back and decided to repurpose it for my Nook. So far I have all of the wiring complete (partially feeding off of the wiring from a working induction charging mod). The wiring is setup as the following:
- +5 and GND are taken from the powermat receiver.
- Wiring passes through to the micro-USB port.
Each step of the wiring seems fine - no shorts, right voltages when tested individually. I am running into issues with the final connection between the receiver and the micro-USB port, though.
Whenever the final connection is made, the powermat station is unable to communicate with the receiver. No lights, no sound. At first I though this was an issue with a faulty receiver - this idea fell apart when I tried 6 other receivers, all having the same result.
By chance has anyone attempted to use the Powermat inductive charging kits with the Nook Color like this? Any advice would be amazing!
Small update on my progress -
It seems that the Nook is attempting to draw too much current from the Powermat receiver. The base unit is responding to a handshake (had to probe the circuit board to detect it), but as soon as the receiver starts outputting 5V, the receiver itself shuts down from the current pull. I was originally thinking that if the nook does not detect the original stock cable, it would not charge at a higher amperage. Looks like directly connecting the +5V to the micro-USB's +5V pin can trigger it to quick charge.
As there seems to be not enough space for both the induction receiver and a current limiting circuit, I decided to stop using the Powermat system and switch back to my old circuit (modified Palm Pre circuit).
I did notice one thing during this attempted mod - the magnets that are found in the Powermat receiver/base are perfect for the Palm Pre Touchstone setup. I get a great hold while using those magnets without much effect on the Nook or the receiver/base combination.
Hopefully this small discovery will help some of the other hardware modders here. I'm definitely going to do more testing with standard USB cables to see if we can trick the Nook to quick charge.
I know your issue.
I won a powermat set up this morning from Duracell. Powermat, iPhone 4/4s case, and power pack. So as an Android user I immediately start disassembly of the iPhone case lol. took two minutes and a screw driver. It has the 30 pin male connector that sends power and a five pin femalemicro USB that receives power.
So I'm looking this thing over and thinking this is great, I'll solder to the USB Ports and hook it up to my i717.
Wrong.
The power output of the case is meant for iPhone which is different than that of my Samsung and any other micro USB device.
So next step, how to convert the output from apple to micro USB standard
Well I finally got my Nexus 7 installed in my car dash.
It is being powered by the 12 volt socket from the pogo pins when the car is on.
I have the 3.5mm jack running to my headunit which is mounted under the seat acting as an amp.
Something strange is that before I connected my ground for the headunit, I plugged in the audio jack from the Nexus, and it turned on the head unit. It seems the 3.5 audio is grounding to the Nexus and turning the headunit on. I am sure this is part of the issue.
Everything sounds great when the car is off, but if I 1. put my lights on, I hear a buzzing, and when I turn the car on,
I get this high pitched squeal that fluctuates which the speed of the engine.
Would a ground loop isolator placed along the 3.5mm line help solve this?
Probably, but a cheap one is going to sound dreadful... fat, loose bass, and rolled off highs. Good audio transformers are expensive (which is what these are), and it will be much cheaper to install an isolated power supply. Google DaqStuff, they have a very good one for about 20 bucks.
Solutions Etcetera said:
Probably, but a cheap one is going to sound dreadful... fat, loose bass, and rolled off highs. Good audio transformers are expensive (which is what these are), and it will be much cheaper to install an isolated power supply. Google DaqStuff, they have a very good one for about 20 bucks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I found the website but I'm not really sure what I am looking at haha.
Would I be installing the power supply for the headunit, the Nexus, or both?
Also, since I've never delved into this before, an isolated power supply, would it run off the batter of the car?
Jeremi1023 said:
I found the website but I'm not really sure what I am looking at haha.
Would I be installing the power supply for the headunit, the Nexus, or both?
Also, since I've never delved into this before, an isolated power supply, would it run off the batter of the car?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You want this one... http://www.daqstuff.com/400116_5volt_switching_power_supply.htm
It will power the Nexus via USB, isolating it from your cars electrical ground (you have a loop now between the electrical ground and the ground of the audio connection from the head unit).
BTW, there is one simple mod you'll want to make to this if you want your N7 to draw the full 2amps from the USB port, and that is to bridge pins 2 and 3 of the USB port. This is very easy to do with just a bead of solder over these pins on the underside of the circuit board where the USB jacks are mounted.
Mount someplace where you can connect 12v from your car to it, and run a USB cable from it to your Nexus. I mounted mine underneath my center console.
Solutions Etcetera said:
You want this one... http://www.daqstuff.com/400116_5volt_switching_power_supply.htm
It will power the Nexus via USB, isolating it from your cars electrical ground (you have a loop now between the electrical ground and the ground of the audio connection from the head unit).
BTW, there is one simple mod you'll want to make to this if you want your N7 to draw the full 2amps from the USB port, and that is to bridge pins 2 and 3 of the USB port. This is very easy to do with just a bead of solder over these pins on the underside of the circuit board where the USB jacks are mounted.
Mount someplace where you can connect 12v from your car to it, and run a USB cable from it to your Nexus. I mounted mine underneath my center console.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On my Nexus 7, the actual USB port is broken. I don't know what I did to it, but it doesn't do a thing when plugged in.
I have the power coming from the 4 pogo pins on the side of the Nexus. Will this mod still work with using the pins instead of the USB port itself?
What if I don't do the mod, and it doesn't draw the 2 amps, will it still draw enough to charge while in use?
Jeremi1023 said:
On my Nexus 7, the actual USB port is broken. I don't know what I did to it, but it doesn't do a thing when plugged in.
I have the power coming from the 4 pogo pins on the side of the Nexus. Will this mod still work with using the pins instead of the USB port itself?
What if I don't do the mod, and it doesn't draw the 2 amps, will it still draw enough to charge while in use?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The unit also has screw terminals for 5vdc out which you can connect directly to the pogo pins. In this case the USB mod is not necessary.
---------- Post added at 11:04 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:58 AM ----------
BTW the unit is fused on the input AND output sides, and the isolating module will absorb spikes as well. It is well made and will supply your Nexus with the cleanest power possible. It's quite the deal for twenty bones.
Solutions Etcetera said:
The unit also has screw terminals for 5vdc out which you can connect directly to the pogo pins. In this case the USB mod is not necessary.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So just to make sure I got this right,
the connectors circled in red would go to the pos and neg of the pogo pins on the Nexus,
and the connectors circled in yellow would go to the power and ground of the vehicle?
This would stop the alternator whine I'm currently hearing?
Yup.
Solutions Etcetera said:
Yup.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well thank you very much!
Glad I could help. I ran into this issue when hooking up a bluetooth receiver in my truck, where things like the door locks would drive it nuts. I was gonna build one but couldn't source the parts for less than this guy offers the thing ready made.
So ive searched the forums, and seen a few mention laptop/pc power supplies. But im trying to do this to a piggybacked fuse in my car (that was going to a hardwired dashcam supply).
It just won't power on whatever i try. After searching these forums, i connected the yellow and red wires to piggybacked fuse + black wire to a ground point.
It powered on for a second or two, then cut out. I presumed id knocked a wire and reconnected and tried again. Nothing at all :/
Any idea's how to get some temporary power to an Eonon GA2168K ?
I have an old PC tower with PSU laying around too, but can anybody let me know which wires/input to jam in to where?
mdis89 said:
So ive searched the forums, and seen a few mention laptop/pc power supplies. But im trying to do this to a piggybacked fuse in my car (that was going to a hardwired dashcam supply).
It just won't power on whatever i try. After searching these forums, i connected the yellow and red wires to piggybacked fuse + black wire to a ground point.
It powered on for a second or two, then cut out. I presumed id knocked a wire and reconnected and tried again. Nothing at all :/
Any idea's how to get some temporary power to an Eonon GA2168K ?
I have an old PC tower with PSU laying around too, but can anybody let me know which wires/input to jam in to where?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This would be useful how to. Can't find one online. Just want to test an android HU
Folks...
Read the installation diagram on the unit.
You need ACC and BAT to go to "+12V" and the black one to ground.
Hi everyone,
few days go i bought a android player: https://pl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001475429868.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.68965c0fBhleYi
and i have some problems with that.
I installed it in my Ford Mondeo / Fusion 2013 with additional display "Converse+".
I plugged my new radio correctly and after first start the machine everything was ok. But after second starting the A/C panel lost the communication with the car and i cant use the A/C panel anymore...
There is one option to resolve that: Unplug car battery and plug it - after that, the AC pan will work again with the first start of the machine, but after second will not working.
Can u help me? Where is the problem? I tried to switch between many Canbus options but the result was the same.
If you need more Information, let me know which one do you need.
Thank you in advance
Hi, is the unit an MTCD/E?
Also, what did the reseller suggest when contacted for support?
If you disconnect power just to the new radio does the air conditioning panel work? Does the panel work as expected with every stop and start of the engine without the radio connected? An easy way to disconnect the radio and verify may be to pull the radio fuse.
The problem with pulling battery cable is that you effectively power off everything in the car and that doesn't isolate just the radio as the exclusive source of the problem.
Have you contacted the reseller as your particular unit could be defective. Since you probably are within the return period, an exchange or return might be in order.
I think that radio has no impact to my issue. When the A/C stopped working, i unplugged the power of radio and nothing changed.
Only when I unplug the A/C panel and plug it back in does everything start working.
When i contacted to reseller he told me only that i should choose another one canbus setting - but it doesnt start to work.
I added two picture of the plugs in this radio and a/c panel.
It's kinda weird but i changed canbus option for (MAX 06-20) instead of mondeo and now it's working for few hours and it looks good. It looks like the canbus option was bad, buuuuuuut... i had this canbus selected few days ago and it worked for more than one day. After that one day the A/C panel lost communication and it stopped to work. I think, that the situation will be again the same this time - i mean that tomorrow it will not be working.
PoppaRoxie1986 said:
If you disconnect power just to the new radio does the air conditioning panel work? Does the panel work as expected with every stop and start of the engine without the radio connected? An easy way to disconnect the radio and verify may be to pull the radio fuse.
The problem with pulling battery cable is that you effectively power off everything in the car and that doesn't isolate just the radio as the exclusive source of the problem.
Have you contacted the reseller as your particular unit could be defective. Since you probably are within the return period, an exchange or return might be in order.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I contacted with the reseller but with no results. Im not sure if that radio is defective, because i know at least 3 people, who have the same issue as me - so everyone has the defective unit? May be.
I contacted with man who checked everything and he said that there is two options: can module software or even can module is broken. The problem is here, that the can module is inside the radio so i cant even change it.
So this is question for you: do u know how can i 'update' the can module software?
Please for some advices..
Bring in a dedicated V+ and ground for it.
You may have inadvertantly created a ground loop, made the V+ "dirty" and/or created an excessive voltage drop on the V+.
Don't daisy chain the V+ or ground; bring it straight off the fuse block or battery terminal with heavy gauge wire. The ground can probably come off the common grounding point used for the A/C or a main ground point on the firewall.
blackhawk said:
Bring in a dedicated V+ and ground for it.
You may have inadvertantly created a ground loop, made the V+ "dirty" and/or created an excessive voltage drop on the V+.
Don't daisy chain the V+ or ground; bring it straight off the fuse block or battery terminal with heavy gauge wire. The ground can probably come off the common grounding point used for the A/C or a main ground point on the firewall.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeap, i thought about this and it will resolve my issue for sure, but what about car battery? This solution will not take too much battery?
so basically there is no other solution? i think you're right. The voltage (somehow) dropped down and the can module lost the communication - it's reasonable
misiek43210 said:
Yeap, i thought about this and it will resolve my issue for sure, but what about car battery? This solution will not take too much battery?
so basically there is no other solution? i think you're right. The voltage (somehow) dropped down and the can module lost the communication - it's reasonable
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not a question of current draw, it's an issue of clean power. A thicker gauge wire is best.
A ground and V+ coming straight off the battery if you're really paranoid or have dirty power*. A twisted pair (use a drill about 8-12 turns a foot) of 14 or 16 gauge stranded wire should do it, put a fuse on the battery end.
A line filter can also be used but the sourcing/wiring is the most important step.
You may need to sheild your new toy if it's emitting rf that's causing the issue in nearby components.
An oscilloscope be helpful to see what's going on.
*autos are notoriously electrically noisy environments with nasty high voltage spikes, AC ripple, rf, all kinds of junk.
blackhawk said:
It's not a question of current draw, it's an issue of clean power. A thicker gauge wire is best.
A ground and V+ coming straight off the battery if you're really paranoid or have dirty power*. A twisted pair (use a drill about 8-12 turns a foot) of 14 or 16 gauge stranded wire should do it, put a fuse on the battery end.
A line filter can also be used but the sourcing/wiring is the most important step.
You may need to sheild your new toy if it's emitting rf that's causing the issue in nearby components.
An oscilloscope be helpful to see what's going on.
*autos are notoriously electrically noisy environments with nasty high voltage spikes, AC ripple, rf, all kinds of junk.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, thats sounds good.
So i have to find dedicated V+ - but V+ even when the key is not in the ignition?
Sorry, my questions could be stupid, but i'm really newbie in this.
Anyway, many thanks for your help!!!
misiek43210 said:
Ok, thats sounds good.
So i have to find dedicated V+ - but V+ even when the key is not in the ignition?
Sorry, my questions could be stupid, but i'm really newbie in this.
Anyway, many thanks for your help!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can come off the hot side of the fuse block* or directly from the battery if you really want to go the extra mile.
Using a stranded heavy gauge twisted pair V+/ground will help to sheild it. Solder or properly crimp the connections.
Shielding for assemblies is simple; a piece of sheet metal, metal box etc securely attached to the car chassis (ground).
*if the main fuse block is under the hood it may be easier to use the battery. Do Not come off the alternator though.
And the same situation. As i said yesterday, today it will not work and i were right.
Maybe there is another option to resolve that? for example new can module software? or this is only problem with V+?
misiek43210 said:
And the same situation. As i said yesterday, today it will not work and i were right.
Maybe there is another option to resolve that? for example new can module software? or this is only problem with V+?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Firmware will not fix a power issue.
You need clean power and a good ground.
Automotive grounding uses many points on the chassis. This can lead to ground loops. A potential issue for aftermarket add ons.
On the V+ side daisy chaining off the fuse block is a common practice and can cause voltage drops as well "dirty" power. Usually coming directly off the fuse block and using one of the main dash or firewall grounding points is sufficient. Otherwise come directly off the battery terminal especially for the V+.
Again using a twisted heavy gauge pair off the battery will help to sheild it and prevent excessive voltage drops.
Any amps etc that are tied in should all have the --same- common grounding point and their V+ coming from the dedicated V+ wire. Extremely heavy current drawing amps should have their own V+ wire.
Both V+ and ground wires need to be heavy.
Battery>heavy gauge wire>common tapp rather than daisy chaining all with one wire.
Always use stranded wire, minimum #12, heavier than that is better. Make sure it's fused on the + source end!
misiek43210 said:
Hi everyone,
few days go i bought a android player: https://pl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001475429868.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.68965c0fBhleYi
and i have some problems with that.
I installed it in my Ford Mondeo / Fusion 2013 with additional display "Converse+".
I plugged my new radio correctly and after first start the machine everything was ok. But after second starting the A/C panel lost the communication with the car and i cant use the A/C panel anymore...
There is one option to resolve that: Unplug car battery and plug it - after that, the AC pan will work again with the first start of the machine, but after second will not working.
Can u help me? Where is the problem? I tried to switch between many Canbus options but the result was the same.
If you need more Information, let me know which one do you need.
Thank you in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is the device an mtce/d
marchnz said:
Is the device an mtce/d
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have checked it right know and.. Its Not even MTC X... Look at this. Do u know what **** is this?
misiek43210 said:
I have checked it right know and.. Its Not even MTC X... Look at this. Do u know what **** is this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think its an FYT device - I'll ask a mod to move it to the Android Head units forum, that way your post will get more exposure.