I've had my Incredible for a month or two now, and rooted it the day I picked it up. I've dug all over this forum learning the ins and outs of this phone, and figured I'd finally give something back.
Car audio has always been a big hobby of mine, and I actually competed in sound quality a couple of years back. So, while researching the Incredible, as soon as I discovered the tv-out cable, my first thought was to feed it into my car. I was very proud of myself thinking I was the first person to come up with this...until I started searching, and realized I wasn't. At all.
Either way, it was hard finding info on this solution because google pulls nothing but details about the cable, and very little on the solution, so I figured I'd put what I've got here.
I have a 2005 Honda Accord with the factory 6 disc changer in the dash. The dual zone climate controls are integrated into the factory radio, so if you remove it, you lose that functionality (which I didn't want to do). There is a large storage pocket that is removable underneath the radio that allows for an aftermarket head unit, and lower dash kits are available for doing that.
I've gotten out of competition, and just have the factory deck now, but wanted a way to play music from any phone I had. PAC makes auxiliary input adapters that integrate with factory radios for just about any car. I bought one for my car, installed it, and can now plug in anything via 3.5mm headphone jack or by RCA.
When I got the phone, my first idea was a car dock where I could plug in the headphone jack and then charge it, but I hated the idea of having to deal with two cables every time. I had started off using CM7, liked it, but read people complaining about no tv-out functionality, which I could care less about, but the option being available meant that audio going out would be no problem, and since the cable has another input for charging, I could have a one plug solution, and so the project began.
I flashed my phone to SR4.0 to have the tv-out capability, (and love the ROM. I like a lot of the more sense based layouts)
First, the cable. The phone only recognizes tv-out when the video input is connected. This posed a problem for me, as I only needed audio. If the solution has been posted before, I couldn't find it, but if you take a female rca jack, or use a male rca jack with a coupler, and short the signal and ground wires together, the phone goes into tv-out mode and will send audio. I had a cheap pair of radio shack rca's laying around, and cut one end off to test this, and it worked flawlessly. In car audio, they're called muting plugs, and are used to troubleshoot engine noise issues.
Second, the charger. I didn't want to use my car charger port, so after some light research to make sure I wasn't missing anything, I confirmed you can take a car charger apart, solder a ground wire to the wire connected to the metal that sticks out of the side of the charger, and solder a power wire to the part going to the tip. On the charger I used, a fuse was inline, and if you want to retain that, you can use a large zip tie and heatshrink to retain it. I didn't b/c the charger was cheap, and if something was to ever short, it'd burn that out first. Regardless, solder leads to power and ground, and then tap into the wiring going into your factory accessory outlet (or cigarette lighter). Use a test light or multimeter to determine power from ground.
Third, the dock. Google sucks at finding good horizontal docking solutions. My first idea was to buy a horizontal cradle and fab it into the lower dash kit, but that's a lot of cutting, as well as having to remove the usb plug on the dock (because it's not extUSB), and really at the end of the day, you just need an L shaped piece of plastic with a hole cut out where the usb is. I was looking at Droid X docks with my friend, and noticed there are a lot of swivel mount car docks for that phone, and thought that'd be a lot easier to do. Further searching led me to proclip.com where they have docks for about any mobile device. *I tried posting a link, but spam got me* I found them while searching for docks thanks to someone on an ATV forum linking the site. It seems people are using their droids for navigation while going off-roading, and use these docks to keep them anchored.
On the quick search at the bottom of the main page, check the box saying you already have a mount, then under holders, select HTC Incredible to pull up the docks. I purchased 511147, holder with tilt swivel, and received it two days after ordering. It's very rugged, and the swivel seems well built. The mount on the right provides room to comfortably plug in a charger or cable, and I'm going to fab a piece to attach the tv-out cable and charger, and route the wire behind it and through the kit. The dock will be attached to the lower dash kit, and a little ABS plastic, epoxy putty, and paint will smooth over any seams. The other nice thing about this for me is the lower dash kit has a cutout for an aftermarket radio, and a spare pocket underneath. Using the dock, I still have full use of the pocket.
If you don't want to do this much custom fabrication, you can use one of their solutions. On the main page, select your car make and model, and they will provide you with the mounts they have. Their mounts attach to the car without screws or tape, and then from there you select your dock, which attaches to the mount.
Sorry this is long and somewhat rambly, but I've seen a lot of posts and questions asking about this kind of solution, with no clear definitive answer. I drove to work this morning listening to pandora via the tv out cable on my factory radio, with the phone being charged and zero problems.
Another side note, there is an adapter for the HTC Hero that is an extUSB plug that goes into a piece that has extUSB input, power input, and 3.5mm out. It's a lot more ideal for this solution, but doesn't work. The extUSB plug is shaped differently, and the pinouts are laid out differently in the plug. If someone was good at soldering, it'd make an even cleaner solution, as you could rout the adapter behind the dash and plug everything into it.
If someone was interested in swapping the ends on that adapter with one that'd fit the Incredible, I'd be willing to pay for it, just for the lower profile and aesthetics of what I'm doing.
I'll update this with pictures once I get it all installed. Hopefully this is helpful, and I didn't just waste a bunch of time typing what was in another post that I've been unable to find.
Thanks for wasting 5 minutes of my life. Just kidding. Thanks for the write up. Can't wait to see pictures.
Sent from my ADR6300 using XDA App
I was going to wait and reply later, But I have been reading up on this subject, There are a lot of people using pads and removing there radios. So to see a phone doing this hope the pics are good
It'll be next week before I can get any up, headed out of town for the weekend tomorrow, but will grab pics of what I have now and will show the install progress as I go.
Hopefully I can get to 11 posts between now and then so I can throw up pics and links to what's going on.
Related
Anyone else experiencing this? I'm hooking my hero up directly to the AUX Input. My mp3 player is fine, but the hero whines so much its unbearable. What's up with this?
So your alternator is humming or your hero? *jk
Could be a a frequency output of the radio. It could really be anything, there are so many electrical circuits close by to know from here. Does it whine if you put it into normal speakers?
Sounds like the 2 are getting along
When I hook mine into the AUX, I don't get any whine.........but then the electric motors normally don't create a whine effect.
Prius FTW
Thanks,
Bubba.
is your hero charging off the cigarette lighter?
if so, you are likely hearing noise induced from your car's electrical (charging) system.
You can:
1. try and replace the alternator with a newer one that is designed to isolate or reduce induced electrical noise. (this seems impractical and cost inefficient)
or
2. try and prevent any oscillations from getting to your phone by using a ferrite ring on your charging cord. (most practical option)
3. try an aux cable with better shielding
bubbacs1 said:
When I hook mine into the AUX, I don't get any whine.........but then the electric motors normally don't create a whine effect.
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Only a whiny, butt hole-clinched effect..
check your aux cable
like obelisk79 mentioned. if your charging.its a ground loop.
morbidpete said:
like obelisk79 mentioned. if your charging.its a ground loop.
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+2
tenchars
I had a cheap USB car charger that did this after a few months of use.
mccsomthin said:
I had a cheap USB car charger that did this after a few months of use.
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+1
I also had a cheap charger that did this. I returned it and bought a Belkin Ipod charger that was simply a 12-volt usb port with an Ipod USB cable (threw the cable away). I use the stock HTC USB cable and there is zero feedback now.
An added bonus is that I can charge anything with a USB port now in my car.
I too, use an iPod charger with a usb cable. I get tons of alternator whine too. I just like to pretend that it's a turbo.
But really, I'm going to try a ferrite sometime
Actually, using a charger doesn't affect it. The alternator whine is still present in both scenarios.
How much would the length/shielding of the cables be responsible for this?
I've also done some research and come across a possible "Big 3 Upgrade" solution. Involving upgrading the 3 most important grounding wires in the car.
"Definition: the "Big Three" upgrade means improving the current capacity of three cables: 1) alternator positive to battery positive, 2) battery negative to chassis, and 3) engine ground to chassis."
My old car used to do this. I replaced my stereo with a decent aftermarket one and the whining stopped. When I say decent I'm not talking like $500 Alpine or whatever, I just went to walmart and picked up a Sony that had an AUX input for like $100.
Since your stereo already has an AUX input it's probably already higher quality than the old stereo in my old car, but still, if you were looking for an excuse to get a new stereo this could be it.
swears11 said:
Anyone else experiencing this? I'm hooking my hero up directly to the AUX Input. My mp3 player is fine, but the hero whines so much its unbearable. What's up with this?
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I would suggest checking engine and body grounds to make sure they have not corroded away, most automotive manufacture's recommend replacing all grounding lines every 80-100k miles and more often in "salty air" regions. Grounds go bad first but the hot lines will also decay, more so in modern cars as the wires are subjected to more flex with the softer engine mounts used these days.
If your grounds look good and it still whines I would suggest hitting up Autozone or whatever local car shop you have and have them do a diagnostic run on the alt.
Once these two are eliminated or fixed and the whine still persists, well either you have a bad connection leading up to your 12v aux plug or line in jack, or your hardware has faulty buffer cap/resistors and is bleeding static into your devise.
I have built 5 Carputers, installed dozens of entertainment systems, done 3 ground-up rewires on cars, and fabricated completely custom wire harness for stand alone ECM system, the items I suggest are based on years of experience and frustration.
I have a 07 VW GTI with an Aux input built into the car so I use a m/m 3.5m audio jack patch cable and it so happens that the power cable for my Garmin GPS is the same connector so it gets used for the phone when it is needed.
Go to RS put a cap between + and - , or get some stuff for interference for CB's (both have frequency filters for sound).
I feed my charger through the primary of a transformer, and take the secondary to ground. So all the non dc goes to ground.
willy900wonka said:
Go to RS put a cap between + and - , or get some stuff for interference for CB's (both have frequency filters for sound).
I feed my charger through the primary of a transformer, and take the secondary to ground. So all the non dc goes to ground.
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There seem to be a lot of people in here knowledgeable about RFI.. are you guys electrical engineers / ham radio operators as well? Im a ham operator and have studied hours on end about RFI issues and you guys all know what you're talking about.
I had that problem using an cheap FM transmitter plugged into my Hero and the lighter. The way I fixed it was to just turn down the volume on my Hero and turning up the radio volume. Just try it to see if it works for you, too.
Ground loop isolator at radio shack for 15 bucks.
katmandu421 said:
Ground loop isolator at radio shack for 15 bucks.
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ding! was gonna suggest the exact same thing.
i have an incredible, also have an incredible idea...
the most annoying thing about listening to music in the car with any phone is the buzz I hear when it's plugged in. is there any way to stop this from happening?
My idea is a plug that sits in the car cigarette lighter port that you plug your car charger into. Inside of the plug is a small li-ion battery that is charged by the car, and charges the phone...
This way when the car revs up it doesn't produce all that noise thru your speakers and ruin your"incredible" music experience.
Anyone think this is a good idea, you think it could work? Obviously there are a few ways to use this idea separate from the one i described... Is there anything like this available?
generic.imitation said:
i have an incredible, also have an incredible idea...
the most annoying thing about listening to music in the car with any phone is the buzz I hear when it's plugged in. is there any way to stop this from happening?
My idea is a plug that sits in the car cigarette lighter port that you plug your car charger into. Inside of the plug is a small li-ion battery that is charged by the car, and charges the phone...
This way when the car revs up it doesn't produce all that noise thru your speakers and ruin your"incredible" music experience.
Anyone think this is a good idea, you think it could work? Obviously there are a few ways to use this idea separate from the one i described... Is there anything like this available?
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Great Idea, though there are some cheap solutions for this already. The humming is usually caused due to different grounds.
You need to try a ground loop isolator..You can get them at radio shack for $12 bucks or so.
http://www.amazon.com/GROUND-LOOP-ISOLATOR-3-5-APPLICATIONS/dp/B001EAQTRI
kntdookoo said:
Great Idea, though there are some cheap solutions for this already. The humming is usually caused due to different grounds.
You need to try a ground loop isolator..You can get them at radio shack for $12 bucks or so.
http://www.amazon.com/GROUND-LOOP-ISOLATOR-3-5-APPLICATIONS/dp/B001EAQTRI
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Thanks a million, this is exactly what I need. I still wonder if my idea will work also tho (and here i thought I was on to something lol)
tell us more about your car stereo situation, because I don't hear any buzzing when using my phone either plugged into the USB port of my Alpine radio, or via BT while plugged into the USB port of the Alpine radio, or charging via the 12v cig adapter...
tell us more about your car stereo situation (and what car we are talking about), because I don't hear any buzzing when using my phone either plugged into the USB port of my Alpine radio, or via BT while plugged into the USB port of the Alpine radio, or charging via the 12v cig adapter... Ground loops can be simply caused by improperly grounded equipment as well. So it's better to fix the bad grounds first, rather than resort to buying more "band-aids"...
seanmcd72 said:
tell us more about your car stereo situation (and what car we are talking about), because I don't hear any buzzing when using my phone either plugged into the USB port of my Alpine radio, or via BT while plugged into the USB port of the Alpine radio, or charging via the 12v cig adapter... Ground loops can be simply caused by improperly grounded equipment as well. So it's better to fix the bad grounds first, rather than resort to buying more "band-aids"...
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Well, i have an 07 scion tc. Don't have a usb plug for my stereo tho, or bluetooth in the car. I plug it into the line in port inside my center console. I find I get more feedback if I plug it into the front charging port, so I plug it into the power port in the center console also. I can't really have it charge and sit in my car mount tho because the charger line wont stretch far enough. If I could plug it into the front one and play music it would be fine tho.
seanmcd72 said:
tell us more about your car stereo situation (and what car we are talking about), because I don't hear any buzzing when using my phone either plugged into the USB port of my Alpine radio, or via BT while plugged into the USB port of the Alpine radio, or charging via the 12v cig adapter... Ground loops can be simply caused by improperly grounded equipment as well. So it's better to fix the bad grounds first, rather than resort to buying more "band-aids"...
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Why the double post You can always press EDIT at the bottom of your previous post to add to your post.
Since his car is somewhat new im sure the grounding and electrical system is fine. This maybe his only option. I found in my company's 08 civic the humming is very loud when the DI is charging. Though, on my 07 BMW and wifes highlander I dont hear a thing...I guess different cars produce different results. A ground loop isolator does help in most cases. Even though it is a problem originating of the power source itself, this filter/isolator is worth a try.
Is a ground thang, heres the fix.
Ok I have had this issue with 5 vehicles, 6 phones, and 3 different XM units and found that just touching the ground of the vehicle to the ground of the audio device causes it to buzz, so it is a ground loop issue meaning the cool battery idea will not work. Somthing I did do in the early days that has always worked is to take one of those inverters that plugs into your lighter and puts out 110AC and plug your home adapter into that, isolates and works great. I just happened to have one so thought i would do it. The cool thing is that you do not have to buy somthing new for the car every time you change devices ;-) The other is to go bluetooth, works great.
Sounds like you may need new spark plug wires?
kntdookoo said:
Why the double post You can always press EDIT at the bottom of your previous post to add to your post.
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Accident? Conspiracy? Who knows??!
generic.imitation said:
Well, i have an 07 scion tc. Don't have a usb plug for my stereo tho, or bluetooth in the car. I plug it into the line in port inside my center console. I find I get more feedback if I plug it into the front charging port, so I plug it into the power port in the center console also. I can't really have it charge and sit in my car mount tho because the charger line wont stretch far enough. If I could plug it into the front one and play music it would be fine tho.
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So is your stereo stock or have you modified it? (amps, etc. ??)
seanmcd72 said:
So is your stereo stock or have you modified it? (amps, etc. ??)
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Stock.
I will probably get an inverter or that isolator soon, thanks for all the help.
I might have a friend check out my grounds too seeing as most people here are saying that could fix it as well.
never had the issue in any car ive owned
junjlo said:
never had the issue in any car ive owned
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You've not installed many stereos then.
... I've fixed damn alternator whine noises more times than I can remember, that is for sure.
Noise suppression
Have a look at the crutchfield guide on noise suppression. just visit crutchfield.com and seach on noise suppression. I would post a l.ink but am not allowed to ..
generic.imitation said:
Stock.
I will probably get an inverter or that isolator soon, thanks for all the help.
I might have a friend check out my grounds too seeing as most people here are saying that could fix it as well.
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If it's stock, probably no reason to check any ground issues. I would check the quality of the cable you are using though...
I think it's an alternator whine like Humpa said. I'll look for a fix, maybe i can figure something out. It whines more when I hit the gas, if it is idling then I can't really hear it.
I didn't buy the HTC extended battery but one from amazon sold by Karen Deals. Link is below
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0NVM3EA1B2VE9HN3AKMA
Battery
Model No: cs-ht8585xl
Part No: 35h000128-00m, ba s400
Rating: 3.7v 2400mah
Lithium Ion
Induction Unit
Palm Pixi charging back with Palm touchstone charging dock
Operating System
Shubcraft 1.4d
Video:
Images are attached below!
Induction charging has the same charging speed as plugging it into a wall outlet. Very fast!
Sidenote:
I tried using a multimeter with the 3 contacts located under the battery and could not get it to register anything (with and without the charger plugged in). I then tried shooting 5v through it using 6 different combination (2 plugs for 3 contacts) and still couldn't get anything. If anyone knows a way to use these 3 contacts for charging please leave feedback. Also if anyone can find a minature microusb male connection that'd be great.
Well done, it's a really nice mod!
The 2400 mAh is a bit too bulky for me, though the extended uptime must be awesome. I'd even consider something similar, were it not that you're using the microusb to charge. If only you could connect it straight to the battery, would be so much more convenient. It'd still work in for instance car kits and attached to a pc.
Never the less, well done.
Looks great, i would try this myself but i cant stand the bulk of extended batteries and the stock metal back would almost defiantly interfere with the current. Where did you get the decal from?
Angelusz said:
Well done, it's a really nice mod!
The 2400 mAh is a bit too bulky for me, though the extended uptime must be awesome. I'd even consider something similar, were it not that you're using the microusb to charge. If only you could connect it straight to the battery, would be so much more convenient. It'd still work in for instance car kits and attached to a pc.
Never the less, well done.
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You can't plug in directly to the battery since the battery doesn't have a balancer board on it and it would explode if it were to be overcharged without one.
JJbdoggg said:
Looks great, i would try this myself but i cant stand the bulk of extended batteries and the stock metal back would almost defiantly interfere with the current. Where did you get the decal from?
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I got the decal in the automotive section of Walmart. It came with 2 big/4small stickers for 7usd
UPDATE: Made the microusb head smaller! Letting liquid electrical tape dry then I'll post pics.
this is a really nice mod. what about the possiblly of going via the nav panel connectors instead of micro usb. this would as far as i know leave the usb port free and also not have the disadvantage of having a usb connector attached which can be easily damged.
Personalyu i wouldnt do this mod as i use my phone to tether a hell of a lot so it seems pointless to me, but being able to just sit your phone down and have it charge is awesome.
Great work!!!!
veda_sticks said:
this is a really nice mod. what about the possiblly of going via the nav panel connectors instead of micro usb. this would as far as i know leave the usb port free and also not have the disadvantage of having a usb connector attached which can be easily damged.
Personalyu i wouldnt do this mod as i use my phone to tether a hell of a lot so it seems pointless to me, but being able to just sit your phone down and have it charge is awesome.
Great work!!!!
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I tired the navpanel connections with no success. If anyone has a multimeter please try to do it to theirs (with charger plugged in).
that is really odd....only think i can think of is manye theres something that needs to happen with the middle pin.
nice work i think that decal are very cute indeed!
PPL this is knowed from a long time! This pins are used for example with Car Kit like CU s400: http://www.slashgear.com/htc-hd2-cu-s400-car-kit-gets-priced-detailed-coming-december-1360143/
This car kit is in two versions: like this on 1st photo - use other battery cover which use this "mysterious" pins to run NaviPanel and charging battery and 2nd version with charging via microUSB port.
I hope this helps a bit.
veda_sticks said:
that is really odd....only think i can think of is manye theres something that needs to happen with the middle pin.
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This "odd" middle pin you can find in every phone battery too. If you depart any battery you can find there a little electronic circuit.
I think, that this pin is used to metering battery charge, but i can be wrong - im not advanced in electornics.
I'm well aware of the existance of these products but cannot figure out what the three contacts below the batteries are.
Maybe some users having one. In that case he/she can make photos of all connectors or better - check it with multimeter which connector is +, - and this middle one.
Maybe some service manuals can tell something more abt this. I searched for it and i did'nt find nothing useful.
FRANQ_23_PL said:
Maybe some users having one. In that case he/she can make photos of all connectors or better - check it with multimeter which connector is +, - and this middle one.
Maybe some service manuals can tell something more abt this. I searched for it and i did'nt find nothing useful.
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I also did a search on google and xda but with no luck. I don't think it inputs 5v into the machine since I did shoot 5v into the 3 connectors using different combination.
Hi all,
The contact closest to the center of the phone (looking along the longest axis of the phone) is the +5V, the one furthest from the +5V is the ground, and there's a small voltage on the center contact, positive to ground. These +5V voltage shows up (on my phone) only when the mini-USB charger is plugged in.
I've got the +5V terminal of the Pre plate attached to the +5V contact on the phone, and the other one attached to the GND contact. Inductive charging works at 341ma (as measure by the hardware and read by BattClock) at maximum, which is probably not coincidentally also the limit set on USB charging, at least from my laptop.
I tried hooking the Touchstone up to a Apple ~1" cubed charger, didn't get any charge. I haven't read the USB power specifications, but according to the people at the Palm forums you have to have a USB spec power-capable charger to initialize the Touchstone, and the USB ICs signal this by connecting the two data lines. This can be approximated by clipping a USB cable and twisting the data lines together on the Touchstone side of the cable. This allowed the Apple charger to power the Touchstone.
The HTC stock charger works fine, as does an 800ma Verizon charger I had laying around. I tried hooking the Touchstone up to both a [email protected] switching charger and a 5V 8A supply, the Touchstone still charged at 341ma. I'm guessing this is software, firmware or hardware limited, just like the computer USB connection. I would speculate that if you shorted the middle pin to the ground pin, it might remove this restriction. Or fry your phone, I didn't try it.
There's a guy on the Pre forums who got the Touchstone to consume about 1.02A (http://forums.precentral.net/palm-p...b-adapters-touchstone-dock-2.html#post2020491) so the thing can, apparently transfer some power. I don't know how long it would last at those wattages, but I'm going to read a bit on the USB power spec and see if the 341ma limit can be lifted.
It's kind of nice to use the internal connector, because it leaves the microUSB port open. If anyone has any questions feel free to ask. With the relevant portion of the Pre cover stuck to the back of my phone, there are no wires out of the chassis and the added part doesn't add any considerable bulk to the phone. It protrudes less than the camera.
Anyways, hope this isn't a thread-jack or too long, but I figured it might help anyone that's going to take the time to do this.
Thanks to the community here.
Did you dremel and hotglue the plastic case to the metal case? Interweb highfive from me to you!
Can you post pictures of the inside wiring please?
I did. I basically cut out a square from the HD2 back large enough to hold the coiled length of wire that is needed to allow the back to be removed and articulated. Then I used Super Glue to fix the section of the Pre back containing the inductive coil and circuitry to the HD2 back.
If you're trying to maintain your warranty I might suggest DigiKey part number 478-4687-1-ND, it's from the AVX "MOBO Spring Contact Interconnect Solutions" catalog under battery connectors (I can send you a .pdf copy of the catalog, it's too big to upload to forum). This is a 3mm pitch connector that should mate well with the internal connector - but - I don't have calipers so I would measure before ordering. I just soldered the wires to my HD2.
I'll post some pictures soonish.
And yeah, high five for sure. Thanks for pioneering this. My last phone was retired when the power connector became flaky, so it's nice not to have to worry about the contact wearing out.
Ur mod is on a dutch popular website!
http://tweakers.net/nieuws/69360/mod-maakt-draadloos-laden-mogelijk-op-htc-hd2.html
Right angle micro-usb
I'm looking to do the same thing with my Vibrant and have been searching for a similar connector. I just did a quick google search and found these angled connectors:
http://www.usbfirewire.com/u_microb_cables_angled.html
I tried soldering it your way with no sucess
Soldering pins are as shown
(If viewing vertically with top up)
(leftside of hd2) negative x positive (center of hd2)
bumping an old thread to see if you've taken pictures of the contact points yet.
Sorry it took me so long to reply. Two pictures, the first is the terminal with the wires soldered in, the second shows how I got the cables from the Palm coil/board through the cover. The terminals as you look along the longest axis of the phone with the microUSB plug closest to you are GND, something, and +5v.
So from left to right: 1 GND / 2 ? / 3 +5v.
Does the Desire Z have any contacts for charging & data. Looking at the pictures it seems that the usb connection is on the side which is a bit awkward in a car holder arrangement.
It would be great to drop it into a cradle (car or desk) without having to fiddle about plugging bits in, but it seems that decent manufacturer's accessories are a thing of the past..?
With the navigation a prominent feature, it really would make sense to have a proper accessory to mount the phone correctly.
I really would like to know this as well. I also want to know if you can route audio through micro-usb port. It works out really good in my G1 right now, I only have to plug in 1 cord for both audio and charging. I would hate to have to plug in 2 cords, micro-usb for charging and 3.5mm for audio, especially since they are on different sides of the phone.
I have the nexus one stand and its amazing. I hope there is some sort of dock. I hate trying to plug it in.
This is my concern - I don't think the regular Desire has any docking contacts (not certain on this though)
The TMo G2 has no dock contacts.
Use these car docks
I've been using the pro clip car docking systems for over 5 years now ... changed 2 cars and on my 3rd phone ...
good solid build, easy install and especially uninstall without damage to vehicle, etc.
I'm buying hte HTC desire Z as soon as it's available from bell in Canada (will unlock it and use it on Fido) but I already ordered the proclip mount for it (the one with car cigarette lighter plug charger) - it supports the phone both vertically and horizontally with or without the keyboard exposed (slide in from the side into the usb plug for charging). see proclipusa dot com and look for the desire z
Ok, I just got my holder
luciantm said:
I've been using the pro clip car docking systems for over 5 years now ... changed 2 cars and on my 3rd phone ...
good solid build, easy install and especially uninstall without damage to vehicle, etc.
I'm buying hte HTC desire Z as soon as it's available from bell in Canada (will unlock it and use it on Fido) but I already ordered the proclip mount for it (the one with car cigarette lighter plug charger) - it supports the phone both vertically and horizontally with or without the keyboard exposed (slide in from the side into the usb plug for charging). see proclipusa dot com and look for the desire z
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Click to collapse
took a bit to get used to the side slide-in (due to usb on the side instead of on the bottom) but it really works great - got the one with cigarette lighter charger - this way I can use navigation without draining the battery
luciantm said:
took a bit to get used to the side slide-in (due to usb on the side instead of on the bottom) but it really works great - got the one with cigarette lighter charger - this way I can use navigation without draining the battery
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It makes sense having the usb on the side of the phone on slider designs. With a bottom mounted usb connector the usb cable gets in the way of your hand when charging the phone when you're typing on the keyboard.
brodit.se are making a car dock to the DZ . And I hope that's with a charger .
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=799621
Correction bordit.se have made 3 car docks 2 with USB Charger.
http://twitpic.com/34p7xl http://twitpic.com/34p7zi http://twitpic.com/34p7vv
Well I finally got my Nexus 7 installed in my car dash.
It is being powered by the 12 volt socket from the pogo pins when the car is on.
I have the 3.5mm jack running to my headunit which is mounted under the seat acting as an amp.
Something strange is that before I connected my ground for the headunit, I plugged in the audio jack from the Nexus, and it turned on the head unit. It seems the 3.5 audio is grounding to the Nexus and turning the headunit on. I am sure this is part of the issue.
Everything sounds great when the car is off, but if I 1. put my lights on, I hear a buzzing, and when I turn the car on,
I get this high pitched squeal that fluctuates which the speed of the engine.
Would a ground loop isolator placed along the 3.5mm line help solve this?
Probably, but a cheap one is going to sound dreadful... fat, loose bass, and rolled off highs. Good audio transformers are expensive (which is what these are), and it will be much cheaper to install an isolated power supply. Google DaqStuff, they have a very good one for about 20 bucks.
Solutions Etcetera said:
Probably, but a cheap one is going to sound dreadful... fat, loose bass, and rolled off highs. Good audio transformers are expensive (which is what these are), and it will be much cheaper to install an isolated power supply. Google DaqStuff, they have a very good one for about 20 bucks.
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Click to collapse
I found the website but I'm not really sure what I am looking at haha.
Would I be installing the power supply for the headunit, the Nexus, or both?
Also, since I've never delved into this before, an isolated power supply, would it run off the batter of the car?
Jeremi1023 said:
I found the website but I'm not really sure what I am looking at haha.
Would I be installing the power supply for the headunit, the Nexus, or both?
Also, since I've never delved into this before, an isolated power supply, would it run off the batter of the car?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You want this one... http://www.daqstuff.com/400116_5volt_switching_power_supply.htm
It will power the Nexus via USB, isolating it from your cars electrical ground (you have a loop now between the electrical ground and the ground of the audio connection from the head unit).
BTW, there is one simple mod you'll want to make to this if you want your N7 to draw the full 2amps from the USB port, and that is to bridge pins 2 and 3 of the USB port. This is very easy to do with just a bead of solder over these pins on the underside of the circuit board where the USB jacks are mounted.
Mount someplace where you can connect 12v from your car to it, and run a USB cable from it to your Nexus. I mounted mine underneath my center console.
Solutions Etcetera said:
You want this one... http://www.daqstuff.com/400116_5volt_switching_power_supply.htm
It will power the Nexus via USB, isolating it from your cars electrical ground (you have a loop now between the electrical ground and the ground of the audio connection from the head unit).
BTW, there is one simple mod you'll want to make to this if you want your N7 to draw the full 2amps from the USB port, and that is to bridge pins 2 and 3 of the USB port. This is very easy to do with just a bead of solder over these pins on the underside of the circuit board where the USB jacks are mounted.
Mount someplace where you can connect 12v from your car to it, and run a USB cable from it to your Nexus. I mounted mine underneath my center console.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On my Nexus 7, the actual USB port is broken. I don't know what I did to it, but it doesn't do a thing when plugged in.
I have the power coming from the 4 pogo pins on the side of the Nexus. Will this mod still work with using the pins instead of the USB port itself?
What if I don't do the mod, and it doesn't draw the 2 amps, will it still draw enough to charge while in use?
Jeremi1023 said:
On my Nexus 7, the actual USB port is broken. I don't know what I did to it, but it doesn't do a thing when plugged in.
I have the power coming from the 4 pogo pins on the side of the Nexus. Will this mod still work with using the pins instead of the USB port itself?
What if I don't do the mod, and it doesn't draw the 2 amps, will it still draw enough to charge while in use?
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Click to collapse
The unit also has screw terminals for 5vdc out which you can connect directly to the pogo pins. In this case the USB mod is not necessary.
---------- Post added at 11:04 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:58 AM ----------
BTW the unit is fused on the input AND output sides, and the isolating module will absorb spikes as well. It is well made and will supply your Nexus with the cleanest power possible. It's quite the deal for twenty bones.
Solutions Etcetera said:
The unit also has screw terminals for 5vdc out which you can connect directly to the pogo pins. In this case the USB mod is not necessary.
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Click to collapse
So just to make sure I got this right,
the connectors circled in red would go to the pos and neg of the pogo pins on the Nexus,
and the connectors circled in yellow would go to the power and ground of the vehicle?
This would stop the alternator whine I'm currently hearing?
Yup.
Solutions Etcetera said:
Yup.
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Click to collapse
Well thank you very much!
Glad I could help. I ran into this issue when hooking up a bluetooth receiver in my truck, where things like the door locks would drive it nuts. I was gonna build one but couldn't source the parts for less than this guy offers the thing ready made.