Hi everyone,
few days go i bought a android player: https://pl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001475429868.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.68965c0fBhleYi
and i have some problems with that.
I installed it in my Ford Mondeo / Fusion 2013 with additional display "Converse+".
I plugged my new radio correctly and after first start the machine everything was ok. But after second starting the A/C panel lost the communication with the car and i cant use the A/C panel anymore...
There is one option to resolve that: Unplug car battery and plug it - after that, the AC pan will work again with the first start of the machine, but after second will not working.
Can u help me? Where is the problem? I tried to switch between many Canbus options but the result was the same.
If you need more Information, let me know which one do you need.
Thank you in advance
Hi, is the unit an MTCD/E?
Also, what did the reseller suggest when contacted for support?
If you disconnect power just to the new radio does the air conditioning panel work? Does the panel work as expected with every stop and start of the engine without the radio connected? An easy way to disconnect the radio and verify may be to pull the radio fuse.
The problem with pulling battery cable is that you effectively power off everything in the car and that doesn't isolate just the radio as the exclusive source of the problem.
Have you contacted the reseller as your particular unit could be defective. Since you probably are within the return period, an exchange or return might be in order.
I think that radio has no impact to my issue. When the A/C stopped working, i unplugged the power of radio and nothing changed.
Only when I unplug the A/C panel and plug it back in does everything start working.
When i contacted to reseller he told me only that i should choose another one canbus setting - but it doesnt start to work.
I added two picture of the plugs in this radio and a/c panel.
It's kinda weird but i changed canbus option for (MAX 06-20) instead of mondeo and now it's working for few hours and it looks good. It looks like the canbus option was bad, buuuuuuut... i had this canbus selected few days ago and it worked for more than one day. After that one day the A/C panel lost communication and it stopped to work. I think, that the situation will be again the same this time - i mean that tomorrow it will not be working.
PoppaRoxie1986 said:
If you disconnect power just to the new radio does the air conditioning panel work? Does the panel work as expected with every stop and start of the engine without the radio connected? An easy way to disconnect the radio and verify may be to pull the radio fuse.
The problem with pulling battery cable is that you effectively power off everything in the car and that doesn't isolate just the radio as the exclusive source of the problem.
Have you contacted the reseller as your particular unit could be defective. Since you probably are within the return period, an exchange or return might be in order.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I contacted with the reseller but with no results. Im not sure if that radio is defective, because i know at least 3 people, who have the same issue as me - so everyone has the defective unit? May be.
I contacted with man who checked everything and he said that there is two options: can module software or even can module is broken. The problem is here, that the can module is inside the radio so i cant even change it.
So this is question for you: do u know how can i 'update' the can module software?
Please for some advices..
Bring in a dedicated V+ and ground for it.
You may have inadvertantly created a ground loop, made the V+ "dirty" and/or created an excessive voltage drop on the V+.
Don't daisy chain the V+ or ground; bring it straight off the fuse block or battery terminal with heavy gauge wire. The ground can probably come off the common grounding point used for the A/C or a main ground point on the firewall.
blackhawk said:
Bring in a dedicated V+ and ground for it.
You may have inadvertantly created a ground loop, made the V+ "dirty" and/or created an excessive voltage drop on the V+.
Don't daisy chain the V+ or ground; bring it straight off the fuse block or battery terminal with heavy gauge wire. The ground can probably come off the common grounding point used for the A/C or a main ground point on the firewall.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeap, i thought about this and it will resolve my issue for sure, but what about car battery? This solution will not take too much battery?
so basically there is no other solution? i think you're right. The voltage (somehow) dropped down and the can module lost the communication - it's reasonable
misiek43210 said:
Yeap, i thought about this and it will resolve my issue for sure, but what about car battery? This solution will not take too much battery?
so basically there is no other solution? i think you're right. The voltage (somehow) dropped down and the can module lost the communication - it's reasonable
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not a question of current draw, it's an issue of clean power. A thicker gauge wire is best.
A ground and V+ coming straight off the battery if you're really paranoid or have dirty power*. A twisted pair (use a drill about 8-12 turns a foot) of 14 or 16 gauge stranded wire should do it, put a fuse on the battery end.
A line filter can also be used but the sourcing/wiring is the most important step.
You may need to sheild your new toy if it's emitting rf that's causing the issue in nearby components.
An oscilloscope be helpful to see what's going on.
*autos are notoriously electrically noisy environments with nasty high voltage spikes, AC ripple, rf, all kinds of junk.
blackhawk said:
It's not a question of current draw, it's an issue of clean power. A thicker gauge wire is best.
A ground and V+ coming straight off the battery if you're really paranoid or have dirty power*. A twisted pair (use a drill about 8-12 turns a foot) of 14 or 16 gauge stranded wire should do it, put a fuse on the battery end.
A line filter can also be used but the sourcing/wiring is the most important step.
You may need to sheild your new toy if it's emitting rf that's causing the issue in nearby components.
An oscilloscope be helpful to see what's going on.
*autos are notoriously electrically noisy environments with nasty high voltage spikes, AC ripple, rf, all kinds of junk.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, thats sounds good.
So i have to find dedicated V+ - but V+ even when the key is not in the ignition?
Sorry, my questions could be stupid, but i'm really newbie in this.
Anyway, many thanks for your help!!!
misiek43210 said:
Ok, thats sounds good.
So i have to find dedicated V+ - but V+ even when the key is not in the ignition?
Sorry, my questions could be stupid, but i'm really newbie in this.
Anyway, many thanks for your help!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can come off the hot side of the fuse block* or directly from the battery if you really want to go the extra mile.
Using a stranded heavy gauge twisted pair V+/ground will help to sheild it. Solder or properly crimp the connections.
Shielding for assemblies is simple; a piece of sheet metal, metal box etc securely attached to the car chassis (ground).
*if the main fuse block is under the hood it may be easier to use the battery. Do Not come off the alternator though.
And the same situation. As i said yesterday, today it will not work and i were right.
Maybe there is another option to resolve that? for example new can module software? or this is only problem with V+?
misiek43210 said:
And the same situation. As i said yesterday, today it will not work and i were right.
Maybe there is another option to resolve that? for example new can module software? or this is only problem with V+?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Firmware will not fix a power issue.
You need clean power and a good ground.
Automotive grounding uses many points on the chassis. This can lead to ground loops. A potential issue for aftermarket add ons.
On the V+ side daisy chaining off the fuse block is a common practice and can cause voltage drops as well "dirty" power. Usually coming directly off the fuse block and using one of the main dash or firewall grounding points is sufficient. Otherwise come directly off the battery terminal especially for the V+.
Again using a twisted heavy gauge pair off the battery will help to sheild it and prevent excessive voltage drops.
Any amps etc that are tied in should all have the --same- common grounding point and their V+ coming from the dedicated V+ wire. Extremely heavy current drawing amps should have their own V+ wire.
Both V+ and ground wires need to be heavy.
Battery>heavy gauge wire>common tapp rather than daisy chaining all with one wire.
Always use stranded wire, minimum #12, heavier than that is better. Make sure it's fused on the + source end!
misiek43210 said:
Hi everyone,
few days go i bought a android player: https://pl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001475429868.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.68965c0fBhleYi
and i have some problems with that.
I installed it in my Ford Mondeo / Fusion 2013 with additional display "Converse+".
I plugged my new radio correctly and after first start the machine everything was ok. But after second starting the A/C panel lost the communication with the car and i cant use the A/C panel anymore...
There is one option to resolve that: Unplug car battery and plug it - after that, the AC pan will work again with the first start of the machine, but after second will not working.
Can u help me? Where is the problem? I tried to switch between many Canbus options but the result was the same.
If you need more Information, let me know which one do you need.
Thank you in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is the device an mtce/d
marchnz said:
Is the device an mtce/d
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have checked it right know and.. Its Not even MTC X... Look at this. Do u know what **** is this?
misiek43210 said:
I have checked it right know and.. Its Not even MTC X... Look at this. Do u know what **** is this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think its an FYT device - I'll ask a mod to move it to the Android Head units forum, that way your post will get more exposure.
Related
I was plugging my X7500 to my car audio system all week, when yesterday the phone suddenly stopped playing sound at all. After I unplugged it, the speaker didn't work as well and the battery was overheating every time I turn the phone on. When I plugged headphones in, here's what I could hear in the right earphone -> http://www.gatyo.com/htc.mp3
I tried plugging and unplugging my headphones in the audio jack multiple times, but to no avail. Please help
The hot battery sounds like you have a short somewhere. People have posted programs here that let you monitor the milliamp draw, which would confirm that. I wonder if the board around the headphone jack cracked - that could cause the audio and battery issues.
thanks for your reply, I sent the unit to a local repair shop and they managed to get the sound working by replacing the audio chip. Right now, they are still struggling with finding the short circuit. Could you please explain if the milliamp draw software that you speak of would just confirm it's a short circuit or could possibly give them more info on where to look?
I've never used the program(s), so I don't know if they show subsystems. I'm betting they don't, that would require extra hardware that would increase cost and size and isn't necessary for normal operation. At the very least it would prove that your device is shorting out.
thank god, they were able to fix it. Although I'm still not sure of the root cause. In your opinion, can upgrading the radio and firmware cause the hardware to malfunction?
No, it shouldn't.
gatyo said:
thank god, they were able to fix it. Although I'm still not sure of the root cause. In your opinion, can upgrading the radio and firmware cause the hardware to malfunction?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no but your audio cable going from the radio might have if it was leaking volatage along it's ground ( ie poor grounding system ) this is primarily why i use an FM trasnmitter that has it's own battery AND it has a power charging port so it filters the power coming from the charging cable i use to power it and keep it charged. helps prevent electrical surges from being put into the audio port.
you can get an avg fm transmitter in most local grocery store and electronics stores now a days. mine only cost me at the time about £14
=)
cyberjak said:
no but your audio cable going from the radio might have if it was leaking volatage along it's ground ( ie poor grounding system ) this is primarily why i use an FM trasnmitter that has it's own battery AND it has a power charging port so it filters the power coming from the charging cable i use to power it and keep it charged. helps prevent electrical surges from being put into the audio port.
you can get an avg fm transmitter in most local grocery store and electronics stores now a days. mine only cost me at the time about £14
=)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The only problem I have with the FM transmitter is poor audio quality. I grounded the audio system myself and tried out several other devices on it (inc. phones and mp3 players) thus far and none of them have malfunctioned.
Now when I roll the tape, I remember that right before the phone malfunctioned I was trying to find the input pins of an old, but very high end JVC in my other car. The cable connected to the pins slipped out several times and shortened the signal coming from the phone, which is probably why it malfunctioned.
Best option is a bluetooth-to-wired option. There are several on the market that are listed as bluetooth headsets with a mini-stereo plug so you can plug your own headset in... or your car. I've done both (wire from the Athena, and bluetooth to wire to car) and the sound quality from the bluetooth is 100% better. Many others on this forum have complained about the Athena's sound driver quality.
And, a bonus is you isolate your Athena from your car like cyberjak said.
edit: actually the best option is bluetooth straight to your car stereo, but I was assuming you only had a wired auxillary input.
Anyone else experiencing this? I'm hooking my hero up directly to the AUX Input. My mp3 player is fine, but the hero whines so much its unbearable. What's up with this?
So your alternator is humming or your hero? *jk
Could be a a frequency output of the radio. It could really be anything, there are so many electrical circuits close by to know from here. Does it whine if you put it into normal speakers?
Sounds like the 2 are getting along
When I hook mine into the AUX, I don't get any whine.........but then the electric motors normally don't create a whine effect.
Prius FTW
Thanks,
Bubba.
is your hero charging off the cigarette lighter?
if so, you are likely hearing noise induced from your car's electrical (charging) system.
You can:
1. try and replace the alternator with a newer one that is designed to isolate or reduce induced electrical noise. (this seems impractical and cost inefficient)
or
2. try and prevent any oscillations from getting to your phone by using a ferrite ring on your charging cord. (most practical option)
3. try an aux cable with better shielding
bubbacs1 said:
When I hook mine into the AUX, I don't get any whine.........but then the electric motors normally don't create a whine effect.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Only a whiny, butt hole-clinched effect..
check your aux cable
like obelisk79 mentioned. if your charging.its a ground loop.
morbidpete said:
like obelisk79 mentioned. if your charging.its a ground loop.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+2
tenchars
I had a cheap USB car charger that did this after a few months of use.
mccsomthin said:
I had a cheap USB car charger that did this after a few months of use.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1
I also had a cheap charger that did this. I returned it and bought a Belkin Ipod charger that was simply a 12-volt usb port with an Ipod USB cable (threw the cable away). I use the stock HTC USB cable and there is zero feedback now.
An added bonus is that I can charge anything with a USB port now in my car.
I too, use an iPod charger with a usb cable. I get tons of alternator whine too. I just like to pretend that it's a turbo.
But really, I'm going to try a ferrite sometime
Actually, using a charger doesn't affect it. The alternator whine is still present in both scenarios.
How much would the length/shielding of the cables be responsible for this?
I've also done some research and come across a possible "Big 3 Upgrade" solution. Involving upgrading the 3 most important grounding wires in the car.
"Definition: the "Big Three" upgrade means improving the current capacity of three cables: 1) alternator positive to battery positive, 2) battery negative to chassis, and 3) engine ground to chassis."
My old car used to do this. I replaced my stereo with a decent aftermarket one and the whining stopped. When I say decent I'm not talking like $500 Alpine or whatever, I just went to walmart and picked up a Sony that had an AUX input for like $100.
Since your stereo already has an AUX input it's probably already higher quality than the old stereo in my old car, but still, if you were looking for an excuse to get a new stereo this could be it.
swears11 said:
Anyone else experiencing this? I'm hooking my hero up directly to the AUX Input. My mp3 player is fine, but the hero whines so much its unbearable. What's up with this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I would suggest checking engine and body grounds to make sure they have not corroded away, most automotive manufacture's recommend replacing all grounding lines every 80-100k miles and more often in "salty air" regions. Grounds go bad first but the hot lines will also decay, more so in modern cars as the wires are subjected to more flex with the softer engine mounts used these days.
If your grounds look good and it still whines I would suggest hitting up Autozone or whatever local car shop you have and have them do a diagnostic run on the alt.
Once these two are eliminated or fixed and the whine still persists, well either you have a bad connection leading up to your 12v aux plug or line in jack, or your hardware has faulty buffer cap/resistors and is bleeding static into your devise.
I have built 5 Carputers, installed dozens of entertainment systems, done 3 ground-up rewires on cars, and fabricated completely custom wire harness for stand alone ECM system, the items I suggest are based on years of experience and frustration.
I have a 07 VW GTI with an Aux input built into the car so I use a m/m 3.5m audio jack patch cable and it so happens that the power cable for my Garmin GPS is the same connector so it gets used for the phone when it is needed.
Go to RS put a cap between + and - , or get some stuff for interference for CB's (both have frequency filters for sound).
I feed my charger through the primary of a transformer, and take the secondary to ground. So all the non dc goes to ground.
willy900wonka said:
Go to RS put a cap between + and - , or get some stuff for interference for CB's (both have frequency filters for sound).
I feed my charger through the primary of a transformer, and take the secondary to ground. So all the non dc goes to ground.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There seem to be a lot of people in here knowledgeable about RFI.. are you guys electrical engineers / ham radio operators as well? Im a ham operator and have studied hours on end about RFI issues and you guys all know what you're talking about.
I had that problem using an cheap FM transmitter plugged into my Hero and the lighter. The way I fixed it was to just turn down the volume on my Hero and turning up the radio volume. Just try it to see if it works for you, too.
Ground loop isolator at radio shack for 15 bucks.
katmandu421 said:
Ground loop isolator at radio shack for 15 bucks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ding! was gonna suggest the exact same thing.
I just noticed that there is a pair of contacts on the inside of battery cover and matching spring loaded contacts in the housing, next to the lower left and right corners of the battery. Anybody knows what are they for?
If they are really electrical, is it possible to detect from software if the bettery cover is removed? Not that this could be used for anything useful, but just curious if that's possible.
vponomarev said:
I just noticed that there is a pair of contacts on the inside of battery cover and matching spring loaded contacts in the housing, next to the lower left and right corners of the battery. Anybody knows what are they for?
If they are really electrical, is it possible to detect from software if the bettery cover is removed? Not that this could be used for anything useful, but just curious if that's possible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm just guessing but I know that the first version of the car kit involved replacing the back cover....so...I'm guessing it relates to having the car kit plugged in and just putting the phone in the kit without needing to attach a cable in the phone each time.
Did I mention that I'm just guessing.
n11 - Good guess.
Thanks for the tip. So, from what I understand, these contacts are for power supply, correct?
vponomarev said:
Thanks for the tip. So, from what I understand, these contacts are for power supply, correct?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well...since Mega Maniac has given such strong support to my guessing ability I'll answer this way: Yep, I guess the contacts are for the power supply.
The contacts are probably for proper grounding since the battery cover is metal. It would be bad to have a static charge differential build up on the cover take out the circuit board. Or it may be that the cove is the antenna. But I doubt that. Just my opinion.
I was thinking within the same line, but more like bettery cover being a shield to prevent any external radio interference. But power connector theory sounds more reasonable. I'm NOT going to verify this theory by applying 5V to these contacts.
vponomarev said:
I was thinking within the same line, but more like bettery cover being a shield to prevent any external radio interference. But power connector theory sounds more reasonable. I'm NOT going to verify this theory by applying 5V to these contacts.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm now guessing that you are a very smart person...grin.
Just for the record I dont have the HTC navigation car mount, but if you are talking about the teo connections either side of the back cover then I cant see what else it would be. Essentially my opinion is as much of a guess as n11, but I would bet my HD2 on it, because there is just about nothing else it could be.
I'd like to know for certain what these are for as well.
Grounding
These connectors are probably grounding, if you see on the cover the paint is striped away where the connectors meets the cover.
If this was in anyway connected to the battery for charging it would short out the battery since the cover is made of metal.
Just Checked With my multimeter and there is a direct connection between the two points, and also between the screws and the two points, so grounding it is.
Hello,
this is a bit of a custom job. I want to take my Droidx and make it a dedicated display in my car. My issues are the battery is shot and buying another is more investment than I prefer. also the battery is not going to work for what i'm doing because it will not be on charge as frequently as it need to get a full charge.
so here is what i want to do. I want to hard wire the battery terminals to a 3.7 vdc source and use that as the primary power to the phone. and use the usb power to wake it on entry and while the ignition is on. right now i've got the usb cord without the battery and it works fine. but I wanted to maybe use the battery/usb to wake it. Anyone able to power the phone on the terminals for the battery?
Thanks
-xpbr2000
xpbr2000 said:
Hello,
this is a bit of a custom job. I want to take my Droidx and make it a dedicated display in my car. My issues are the battery is shot and buying another is more investment than I prefer. also the battery is not going to work for what i'm doing because it will not be on charge as frequently as it need to get a full charge.
so here is what i want to do. I want to hard wire the battery terminals to a 3.7 vdc source and use that as the primary power to the phone. and use the usb power to wake it on entry and while the ignition is on. right now i've got the usb cord without the battery and it works fine. but I wanted to maybe use the battery/usb to wake it. Anyone able to power the phone on the terminals for the battery?
Thanks
-xpbr2000
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The phone works without a battery. Maybe bypass it and connect to USB?
Sent from my SCH-I605 using xda premium
You'll need to have a battery or something to keep it from just turning off when you turn off the car, won't you? I looked into doing something like that with the RasPi, and I you're not supposed to just remove the power supply.
Or can you wire it to wear it has power when the car isn't running?
sghsmorgan said:
You'll need to have a battery or something to keep it from just turning off when you turn off the car, won't you? I looked into doing something like that with the RasPi, and I you're not supposed to just remove the power supply.
Or can you wire it to wear it has power when the car isn't running?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if i could figure out what the battery supplies the phone then i could wire a 3.7v source to the battery terminals on the phone.
I've had this system wired up for a couple months and it works great. the only issue i've had is the age of this battery makes it not take a charge. so in the heat of the day i get in the car and the battery temp is 100+ the phone is dead because the battery doesn't operate. and the charger can't charge the hot battery and keep the phone powered. I never liked the idea of a battery inside the car. heat + battery = boom (maybe not but it could cause a big mess and damage the phone.
the question i need answered is what is required for the phone to run? what do each of the battery terminals do? obviously one is ground (marked) and one is positive (also marked) the middle terminal has to do with a temp or charge signal. it doesn't power on just the positive and negative to the best i can test it. maybe i'm doing it wrong.
and i have looked at a rasPI. we have one. but i can find a capacitive touch screen that is small enough to fit in my dash (4th gen camaro) without deleting my radio which isn't going to happen. plus they are expensive. idk y tablets and such are cheaper with the same type screen plus the hardware of the tablet.
Almost! Cept with a Hero!
OP: If you still have the battery, you should be able to find the Amperage listed in mHa near the voltage on the batteries sticker. After you have these 2 values you should be able to construct a small circuit to drop your cars internal voltage down to the appropriate level. Hook it up to the 12v from your car at Ignition/Accessory if you want it on whenever you can use the radio, or to the Constant 12v, after the fusebox, to have it usable whenever your car doesn't need a jump! Best of Luck!
So, I'm actually trying something similar right now except with a HTC Hero with a bloated battery that refuses to hold a charge. I've tried several times to boot the phone with just the USB cable, but all I get is a red battery icon : / I'm looking to just hardwire this stupid thing to a plug or even a 9v alternative. This is gonna be used around my house for various things
As of my posting this, I've found 3 threads on slightly similar topics, none with very good/any info tho. Thank you in advance for any help!
Hello, as I mentioned in the title, my device turned off suddenly with some glitches on screen, I was able to turn on several times more but then it turned off completely. When I connect it to power supply, nothing happens that can indicate device is working, like charging light or image on screen etc. So, I connected power meter and checked out that it is drawing power or not. When I press power button It draws around 0.02 amps, I assume that is boot current. Then I searched for this situation and find out that problem might be a failure of power ic. To be sure I started testing basic components in the image and found out one short circuit in red circle. I'm curious about this is normal or not? Anyone knows what cause this problem or what should I check? Your opininon means a lot to me, thanks in advance.
It draws a lot more than 20 ma at boot. That's a control signal.
Red circle, sure it's not a low value power resister?
With all the BGA's on there it's almost a pointless folly to try and troubleshoot the mobo unless you're ready to do some hot air rework.
blackhawk said:
It draws a lot more than 20 ma at boot. That's a control signal.
Red circle, sure it's not a low value power resister?
With all the BGA's on there it's almost a pointless folly to try and troubleshoot the mobo unless you're ready to do some hot air rework.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, isn't there any main point to check out before anything in such a "characteristically" known fault? Just like main power line or buck converters etc.
melltith said:
So, isn't there any main point to check out before anything in such a "characteristically" known fault? Just like main power line or buck converters etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As long as the mobo is getting it's signals from the switches. Possible battery failure. Also possible that a ribbon connector is loose. Cheap easy fixes... hope it's one of these.
If the battery is old, and had poor SOT, start there and replace it. Then see what you got.
Remove the shorted component marked as red.
Check both contacts of motherboard for short.
Check actual power filter / component on both sides for short.
If there is a short on individual component only with contacts resulting to no short - Download an interactive schematic drawing (boardview) of you're motherboard (S7-Edge).
Locate the component. Download the PDF of schematic. Use Ctrl+F and input part no. of component from interactive schematic drawing.
This will give you component model.
Order it from any online stores such as Ebay, Aliexpress etc..
Replace.
Done ;-)
If there are shorts on Motherboard contacts after component removal:
Check for other components that are shorted.
Remove them.
Check for short and repeat process until no short.
Use previous guide to find all components to replace.
solder the components. If short is on a microcontroller with BGA, Better to buy ones with the solder balls pre soldered from aliexpress. This WILL require a heat gun, flux, tweezers, patience, and precision.
Vancerality said:
Remove the shorted component marked as red.
Check both contacts of motherboard for short.
Check actual power filter / component on both sides for short.
If there is a short - Download an interactive schematic drawing.
Locate the component. Download the PDF of schematic. Use Ctrl+F and input part no. of component from interactive schematic drawing.
This will give you component model.
Order it from any online stores such as Ebay, Aliexpress etc..
Replace.
Done ;-)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check "shorted" component's resistance once out of circuit... it may not be the short.
blackhawk said:
Check "shorted" component's resistance once out of circuit... it may not be the short.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes. Pretty sure OP knows that short is about 0 ohms but you never know...
Vancerality said:
Yes. Pretty sure OP knows that short is about 0 ohms but you never know...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It could be a low value... it doesn't look fried in the image.
blackhawk said:
It could be a low value... it doesn't look fried in the image.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks may be deceiving from outside but what matters is inside. Most modern (even low cost) multimeters have diode mode which will send audiable beep to indicate of short.