Database Users

self repair universal

Hi, I broke my universal last night :.(
I was using a charger that came with my gps, and it fell 30cm off the bed table and hit the floor, striking the charger cable. The gps charger is longer, so without the rubber collar to absorb the shock, the usb plug twisted inside, and broke the usb connector off the motherboard.
pics: http://boldra.com/images/universal/
I use my universal very heavily, so I want to get it fixed as soon as possible. I've done simple repairs on laptops and phones before, including soldering on a power connector in a dropped vaio. How would people rate the difficulty of this one?
The first issue will be to get hold of a suitable screwdriver, but I'll also have to source a new usb connector.
Has anyone got any experience or tips they could share?
Thanks!
Boldra

Boldra said:
Hi, I broke my universal last night :.(
I was using a charger that came with my gps, and it fell 30cm off the bed table and hit the floor, striking the charger cable. The gps charger is longer, so without the rubber collar to absorb the shock, the usb plug twisted inside, and broke the usb connector off the motherboard.
pics: http://boldra.com/images/universal/
I use my universal very heavily, so I want to get it fixed as soon as possible. I've done simple repairs on laptops and phones before, including soldering on a power connector in a dropped vaio. How would people rate the difficulty of this one?
The first issue will be to get hold of a suitable screwdriver, but I'll also have to source a new usb connector.
Has anyone got any experience or tips they could share?
Thanks!
Boldra
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi first of all, based on my experience with opening universal - when you start opening PLEASE READ OPENING INSTRUCTIONS on FTP - there is PDF file for this. And second one - try ty find a cheam MP3 player with same USB connector - you will never belive what is inside of those tousands MP3 players - I even find inside one a DiskOnChip for universal

Thanks, they look like two very good tips! I was actually going to check out the second hand shop for old cameras with mini-usb connectors, but mp3 players sound like a good idea too.
Boldra

I had the same problem. I fixed it myself too. I just used the USB connector that was broken off and soldered it back.
I don't think a new connector is going to be needed. More likely your biggest problem will be broken off tracks on the motherboard.

Thanks Patrick, I love the net! I've never personally met anyone with the same device, but now here I am talking to someone who's actually had exactly the same problem!
I've now opened the case up (after downloading the beautiful maintenance manual), and it looks like there are indeed a couple of bits of the mobo broken off and stuck to the connector.
I've had a look with a magnifying glass, and it looks like the 4th connector in particular is going to be difficult to match up. I've been checking out the USB spec, and, if I'm reading it right, this connector is only used for a usb hub. I think on the universal it's not actually connected to anything. Really, I'll just be pretty happy if I can just get connectors 1 & 5 joined up again, so I can recharge!
The other thing I'm worrying about is how I can firmly attach the connector back onto the board so that it doesn't easily break off again. I'm considering a drop of superglue to fix the usb connector onto the mobo before starting the soldering. How did you solve this problem? Are you relying entirely on solder to take the load?
Boldra

Boldra said:
The other thing I'm worrying about is how I can firmly attach the connector back onto the board so that it doesn't easily break off again. I'm considering a drop of superglue to fix the usb connector onto the mobo before starting the soldering. How did you solve this problem? Are you relying entirely on solder to take the load?
Boldra
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't even think about it !!! If you put some glue there you can say goodbye to your device if it brokes again you cannot protect device from this - is more cheap to repair him again

You should put this warning up:
Warning, HORROR pictures ...
must be over 21 to watch ...

Boldra said:
Thanks Patrick, I love the net! I've never personally met anyone with the same device, but now here I am talking to someone who's actually had exactly the same problem!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you search the forum here you will notice there are hordes of people with the same problem. It's safe to say this is a design flaw of the Universal.
Boldra said:
I'll just be pretty happy if I can just get connectors 1 & 5 joined up again, so I can recharge!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same here. I stopped messing with it when it started charging again. It doesn't connect through USB anymore, but I can do that via bluetooth as well.
Boldra said:
The other thing I'm worrying about is how I can firmly attach the connector back onto the board so that it doesn't easily break off again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I put some extra solder on the large pads on the side. I have a feeling that that helped put it on the board more sturdy. I also changed the way I use the Universal. Before I would use it with the charge cable atached so the battery would stay full. Now I never move it around when the cable is attached. So now when the Universal is charging, the first thing I do is take the charge cable out and then open the unit and switch it on.

superglue will not work. you must solder it back on.
from those pics it's impossible to estimate the damage.
open it up and take some new pics.

What are these Pins for?

If you open your batterycover you see two silver pins in your hd2. If you then look at the back of your battery cover you see two squared areas where they connect to the battery cover. What are they for?

Those pins are to charge the batt. Check out this site and you'll get the idea of it's use:
http://wmpoweruser.com/?p=8708

aren't these the same pins (sorry i didn't check vid so sorry if it shows this), that are used for the car mount... which u replace the back when u use and those pins activate navipanel?

hi, the tow silver pins are to connect the backcover with the electrical part of the phone. so different electrical potentials between the phone and the (metal)backcover are prevented.
MasK said:
Those pins are to charge the batt. Check out this site and you'll get the idea of it's use:
http://wmpoweruser.com/?p=8708
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thats what the three golden pads are good for. but be aware that htc changes their minds and distribute now a 'modificated' version of the carkit.
http://www.htcaccessorystore.com/de/p_htc_item.aspx?i=188277
http://i.expansys.com/i/b/b188277.jpg
you can find more info about it, here in the forum (accessories).
mad

ok, the potential thing is understood. thx m8
the car kit thing really is a pity. due tha i decided to switch to herbert richter in one and brodit in the other car. the last oneis the one i recommend because it has got some space behind the phone. herbert richter doesn't. the result is that with hr my leo often has a heat problem. believe me, it's getting very hot!

My Mod: Extended 2400mah battery with induction charging

I didn't buy the HTC extended battery but one from amazon sold by Karen Deals. Link is below
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0NVM3EA1B2VE9HN3AKMA
Battery
Model No: cs-ht8585xl
Part No: 35h000128-00m, ba s400
Rating: 3.7v 2400mah
Lithium Ion
Induction Unit
Palm Pixi charging back with Palm touchstone charging dock
Operating System
Shubcraft 1.4d
Video:
Images are attached below!
Induction charging has the same charging speed as plugging it into a wall outlet. Very fast!
Sidenote:
I tried using a multimeter with the 3 contacts located under the battery and could not get it to register anything (with and without the charger plugged in). I then tried shooting 5v through it using 6 different combination (2 plugs for 3 contacts) and still couldn't get anything. If anyone knows a way to use these 3 contacts for charging please leave feedback. Also if anyone can find a minature microusb male connection that'd be great.

Well done, it's a really nice mod!
The 2400 mAh is a bit too bulky for me, though the extended uptime must be awesome. I'd even consider something similar, were it not that you're using the microusb to charge. If only you could connect it straight to the battery, would be so much more convenient. It'd still work in for instance car kits and attached to a pc.
Never the less, well done.

Looks great, i would try this myself but i cant stand the bulk of extended batteries and the stock metal back would almost defiantly interfere with the current. Where did you get the decal from?

Angelusz said:
Well done, it's a really nice mod!
The 2400 mAh is a bit too bulky for me, though the extended uptime must be awesome. I'd even consider something similar, were it not that you're using the microusb to charge. If only you could connect it straight to the battery, would be so much more convenient. It'd still work in for instance car kits and attached to a pc.
Never the less, well done.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can't plug in directly to the battery since the battery doesn't have a balancer board on it and it would explode if it were to be overcharged without one.
JJbdoggg said:
Looks great, i would try this myself but i cant stand the bulk of extended batteries and the stock metal back would almost defiantly interfere with the current. Where did you get the decal from?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got the decal in the automotive section of Walmart. It came with 2 big/4small stickers for 7usd
UPDATE: Made the microusb head smaller! Letting liquid electrical tape dry then I'll post pics.

this is a really nice mod. what about the possiblly of going via the nav panel connectors instead of micro usb. this would as far as i know leave the usb port free and also not have the disadvantage of having a usb connector attached which can be easily damged.
Personalyu i wouldnt do this mod as i use my phone to tether a hell of a lot so it seems pointless to me, but being able to just sit your phone down and have it charge is awesome.
Great work!!!!

veda_sticks said:
this is a really nice mod. what about the possiblly of going via the nav panel connectors instead of micro usb. this would as far as i know leave the usb port free and also not have the disadvantage of having a usb connector attached which can be easily damged.
Personalyu i wouldnt do this mod as i use my phone to tether a hell of a lot so it seems pointless to me, but being able to just sit your phone down and have it charge is awesome.
Great work!!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tired the navpanel connections with no success. If anyone has a multimeter please try to do it to theirs (with charger plugged in).

that is really odd....only think i can think of is manye theres something that needs to happen with the middle pin.

nice work i think that decal are very cute indeed!

PPL this is knowed from a long time! This pins are used for example with Car Kit like CU s400: http://www.slashgear.com/htc-hd2-cu-s400-car-kit-gets-priced-detailed-coming-december-1360143/
This car kit is in two versions: like this on 1st photo - use other battery cover which use this "mysterious" pins to run NaviPanel and charging battery and 2nd version with charging via microUSB port.
I hope this helps a bit.
veda_sticks said:
that is really odd....only think i can think of is manye theres something that needs to happen with the middle pin.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This "odd" middle pin you can find in every phone battery too. If you depart any battery you can find there a little electronic circuit.
I think, that this pin is used to metering battery charge, but i can be wrong - im not advanced in electornics.

I'm well aware of the existance of these products but cannot figure out what the three contacts below the batteries are.

Maybe some users having one. In that case he/she can make photos of all connectors or better - check it with multimeter which connector is +, - and this middle one.
Maybe some service manuals can tell something more abt this. I searched for it and i did'nt find nothing useful.

FRANQ_23_PL said:
Maybe some users having one. In that case he/she can make photos of all connectors or better - check it with multimeter which connector is +, - and this middle one.
Maybe some service manuals can tell something more abt this. I searched for it and i did'nt find nothing useful.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I also did a search on google and xda but with no luck. I don't think it inputs 5v into the machine since I did shoot 5v into the 3 connectors using different combination.

Hi all,
The contact closest to the center of the phone (looking along the longest axis of the phone) is the +5V, the one furthest from the +5V is the ground, and there's a small voltage on the center contact, positive to ground. These +5V voltage shows up (on my phone) only when the mini-USB charger is plugged in.
I've got the +5V terminal of the Pre plate attached to the +5V contact on the phone, and the other one attached to the GND contact. Inductive charging works at 341ma (as measure by the hardware and read by BattClock) at maximum, which is probably not coincidentally also the limit set on USB charging, at least from my laptop.
I tried hooking the Touchstone up to a Apple ~1" cubed charger, didn't get any charge. I haven't read the USB power specifications, but according to the people at the Palm forums you have to have a USB spec power-capable charger to initialize the Touchstone, and the USB ICs signal this by connecting the two data lines. This can be approximated by clipping a USB cable and twisting the data lines together on the Touchstone side of the cable. This allowed the Apple charger to power the Touchstone.
The HTC stock charger works fine, as does an 800ma Verizon charger I had laying around. I tried hooking the Touchstone up to both a [email protected] switching charger and a 5V 8A supply, the Touchstone still charged at 341ma. I'm guessing this is software, firmware or hardware limited, just like the computer USB connection. I would speculate that if you shorted the middle pin to the ground pin, it might remove this restriction. Or fry your phone, I didn't try it.
There's a guy on the Pre forums who got the Touchstone to consume about 1.02A (http://forums.precentral.net/palm-p...b-adapters-touchstone-dock-2.html#post2020491) so the thing can, apparently transfer some power. I don't know how long it would last at those wattages, but I'm going to read a bit on the USB power spec and see if the 341ma limit can be lifted.
It's kind of nice to use the internal connector, because it leaves the microUSB port open. If anyone has any questions feel free to ask. With the relevant portion of the Pre cover stuck to the back of my phone, there are no wires out of the chassis and the added part doesn't add any considerable bulk to the phone. It protrudes less than the camera.
Anyways, hope this isn't a thread-jack or too long, but I figured it might help anyone that's going to take the time to do this.
Thanks to the community here.

Did you dremel and hotglue the plastic case to the metal case? Interweb highfive from me to you!
Can you post pictures of the inside wiring please?

I did. I basically cut out a square from the HD2 back large enough to hold the coiled length of wire that is needed to allow the back to be removed and articulated. Then I used Super Glue to fix the section of the Pre back containing the inductive coil and circuitry to the HD2 back.
If you're trying to maintain your warranty I might suggest DigiKey part number 478-4687-1-ND, it's from the AVX "MOBO Spring Contact Interconnect Solutions" catalog under battery connectors (I can send you a .pdf copy of the catalog, it's too big to upload to forum). This is a 3mm pitch connector that should mate well with the internal connector - but - I don't have calipers so I would measure before ordering. I just soldered the wires to my HD2.
I'll post some pictures soonish.
And yeah, high five for sure. Thanks for pioneering this. My last phone was retired when the power connector became flaky, so it's nice not to have to worry about the contact wearing out.

Ur mod is on a dutch popular website!
http://tweakers.net/nieuws/69360/mod-maakt-draadloos-laden-mogelijk-op-htc-hd2.html

Right angle micro-usb
I'm looking to do the same thing with my Vibrant and have been searching for a similar connector. I just did a quick google search and found these angled connectors:
http://www.usbfirewire.com/u_microb_cables_angled.html

I tried soldering it your way with no sucess
Soldering pins are as shown
(If viewing vertically with top up)
(leftside of hd2) negative x positive (center of hd2)

bumping an old thread to see if you've taken pictures of the contact points yet.

Sorry it took me so long to reply. Two pictures, the first is the terminal with the wires soldered in, the second shows how I got the cables from the Palm coil/board through the cover. The terminals as you look along the longest axis of the phone with the microUSB plug closest to you are GND, something, and +5v.
So from left to right: 1 GND / 2 ? / 3 +5v.

Air Conditioner Problem with Android Player

Hi everyone,
few days go i bought a android player: https://pl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001475429868.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.68965c0fBhleYi
and i have some problems with that.
I installed it in my Ford Mondeo / Fusion 2013 with additional display "Converse+".
I plugged my new radio correctly and after first start the machine everything was ok. But after second starting the A/C panel lost the communication with the car and i cant use the A/C panel anymore...
There is one option to resolve that: Unplug car battery and plug it - after that, the AC pan will work again with the first start of the machine, but after second will not working.
Can u help me? Where is the problem? I tried to switch between many Canbus options but the result was the same.
If you need more Information, let me know which one do you need.
Thank you in advance

Hi, is the unit an MTCD/E?
Also, what did the reseller suggest when contacted for support?

If you disconnect power just to the new radio does the air conditioning panel work? Does the panel work as expected with every stop and start of the engine without the radio connected? An easy way to disconnect the radio and verify may be to pull the radio fuse.
The problem with pulling battery cable is that you effectively power off everything in the car and that doesn't isolate just the radio as the exclusive source of the problem.
Have you contacted the reseller as your particular unit could be defective. Since you probably are within the return period, an exchange or return might be in order.

I think that radio has no impact to my issue. When the A/C stopped working, i unplugged the power of radio and nothing changed.
Only when I unplug the A/C panel and plug it back in does everything start working.
When i contacted to reseller he told me only that i should choose another one canbus setting - but it doesnt start to work.
I added two picture of the plugs in this radio and a/c panel.

It's kinda weird but i changed canbus option for (MAX 06-20) instead of mondeo and now it's working for few hours and it looks good. It looks like the canbus option was bad, buuuuuuut... i had this canbus selected few days ago and it worked for more than one day. After that one day the A/C panel lost communication and it stopped to work. I think, that the situation will be again the same this time - i mean that tomorrow it will not be working.
PoppaRoxie1986 said:
If you disconnect power just to the new radio does the air conditioning panel work? Does the panel work as expected with every stop and start of the engine without the radio connected? An easy way to disconnect the radio and verify may be to pull the radio fuse.
The problem with pulling battery cable is that you effectively power off everything in the car and that doesn't isolate just the radio as the exclusive source of the problem.
Have you contacted the reseller as your particular unit could be defective. Since you probably are within the return period, an exchange or return might be in order.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I contacted with the reseller but with no results. Im not sure if that radio is defective, because i know at least 3 people, who have the same issue as me - so everyone has the defective unit? May be.
I contacted with man who checked everything and he said that there is two options: can module software or even can module is broken. The problem is here, that the can module is inside the radio so i cant even change it.
So this is question for you: do u know how can i 'update' the can module software?
Please for some advices..

Bring in a dedicated V+ and ground for it.
You may have inadvertantly created a ground loop, made the V+ "dirty" and/or created an excessive voltage drop on the V+.
Don't daisy chain the V+ or ground; bring it straight off the fuse block or battery terminal with heavy gauge wire. The ground can probably come off the common grounding point used for the A/C or a main ground point on the firewall.

blackhawk said:
Bring in a dedicated V+ and ground for it.
You may have inadvertantly created a ground loop, made the V+ "dirty" and/or created an excessive voltage drop on the V+.
Don't daisy chain the V+ or ground; bring it straight off the fuse block or battery terminal with heavy gauge wire. The ground can probably come off the common grounding point used for the A/C or a main ground point on the firewall.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeap, i thought about this and it will resolve my issue for sure, but what about car battery? This solution will not take too much battery?
so basically there is no other solution? i think you're right. The voltage (somehow) dropped down and the can module lost the communication - it's reasonable

misiek43210 said:
Yeap, i thought about this and it will resolve my issue for sure, but what about car battery? This solution will not take too much battery?
so basically there is no other solution? i think you're right. The voltage (somehow) dropped down and the can module lost the communication - it's reasonable
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not a question of current draw, it's an issue of clean power. A thicker gauge wire is best.
A ground and V+ coming straight off the battery if you're really paranoid or have dirty power*. A twisted pair (use a drill about 8-12 turns a foot) of 14 or 16 gauge stranded wire should do it, put a fuse on the battery end.
A line filter can also be used but the sourcing/wiring is the most important step.
You may need to sheild your new toy if it's emitting rf that's causing the issue in nearby components.
An oscilloscope be helpful to see what's going on.
*autos are notoriously electrically noisy environments with nasty high voltage spikes, AC ripple, rf, all kinds of junk.

blackhawk said:
It's not a question of current draw, it's an issue of clean power. A thicker gauge wire is best.
A ground and V+ coming straight off the battery if you're really paranoid or have dirty power*. A twisted pair (use a drill about 8-12 turns a foot) of 14 or 16 gauge stranded wire should do it, put a fuse on the battery end.
A line filter can also be used but the sourcing/wiring is the most important step.
You may need to sheild your new toy if it's emitting rf that's causing the issue in nearby components.
An oscilloscope be helpful to see what's going on.
*autos are notoriously electrically noisy environments with nasty high voltage spikes, AC ripple, rf, all kinds of junk.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, thats sounds good.
So i have to find dedicated V+ - but V+ even when the key is not in the ignition?
Sorry, my questions could be stupid, but i'm really newbie in this.
Anyway, many thanks for your help!!!

misiek43210 said:
Ok, thats sounds good.
So i have to find dedicated V+ - but V+ even when the key is not in the ignition?
Sorry, my questions could be stupid, but i'm really newbie in this.
Anyway, many thanks for your help!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can come off the hot side of the fuse block* or directly from the battery if you really want to go the extra mile.
Using a stranded heavy gauge twisted pair V+/ground will help to sheild it. Solder or properly crimp the connections.
Shielding for assemblies is simple; a piece of sheet metal, metal box etc securely attached to the car chassis (ground).
*if the main fuse block is under the hood it may be easier to use the battery. Do Not come off the alternator though.

And the same situation. As i said yesterday, today it will not work and i were right.
Maybe there is another option to resolve that? for example new can module software? or this is only problem with V+?

misiek43210 said:
And the same situation. As i said yesterday, today it will not work and i were right.
Maybe there is another option to resolve that? for example new can module software? or this is only problem with V+?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Firmware will not fix a power issue.
You need clean power and a good ground.
Automotive grounding uses many points on the chassis. This can lead to ground loops. A potential issue for aftermarket add ons.
On the V+ side daisy chaining off the fuse block is a common practice and can cause voltage drops as well "dirty" power. Usually coming directly off the fuse block and using one of the main dash or firewall grounding points is sufficient. Otherwise come directly off the battery terminal especially for the V+.
Again using a twisted heavy gauge pair off the battery will help to sheild it and prevent excessive voltage drops.
Any amps etc that are tied in should all have the --same- common grounding point and their V+ coming from the dedicated V+ wire. Extremely heavy current drawing amps should have their own V+ wire.
Both V+ and ground wires need to be heavy.
Battery>heavy gauge wire>common tapp rather than daisy chaining all with one wire.
Always use stranded wire, minimum #12, heavier than that is better. Make sure it's fused on the + source end!

misiek43210 said:
Hi everyone,
few days go i bought a android player: https://pl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001475429868.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.68965c0fBhleYi
and i have some problems with that.
I installed it in my Ford Mondeo / Fusion 2013 with additional display "Converse+".
I plugged my new radio correctly and after first start the machine everything was ok. But after second starting the A/C panel lost the communication with the car and i cant use the A/C panel anymore...
There is one option to resolve that: Unplug car battery and plug it - after that, the AC pan will work again with the first start of the machine, but after second will not working.
Can u help me? Where is the problem? I tried to switch between many Canbus options but the result was the same.
If you need more Information, let me know which one do you need.
Thank you in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is the device an mtce/d

marchnz said:
Is the device an mtce/d
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have checked it right know and.. Its Not even MTC X... Look at this. Do u know what **** is this?

misiek43210 said:
I have checked it right know and.. Its Not even MTC X... Look at this. Do u know what **** is this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think its an FYT device - I'll ask a mod to move it to the Android Head units forum, that way your post will get more exposure.

S7 Edge Turned off and won't turn on

Hello, as I mentioned in the title, my device turned off suddenly with some glitches on screen, I was able to turn on several times more but then it turned off completely. When I connect it to power supply, nothing happens that can indicate device is working, like charging light or image on screen etc. So, I connected power meter and checked out that it is drawing power or not. When I press power button It draws around 0.02 amps, I assume that is boot current. Then I searched for this situation and find out that problem might be a failure of power ic. To be sure I started testing basic components in the image and found out one short circuit in red circle. I'm curious about this is normal or not? Anyone knows what cause this problem or what should I check? Your opininon means a lot to me, thanks in advance.

It draws a lot more than 20 ma at boot. That's a control signal.
Red circle, sure it's not a low value power resister?
With all the BGA's on there it's almost a pointless folly to try and troubleshoot the mobo unless you're ready to do some hot air rework.

blackhawk said:
It draws a lot more than 20 ma at boot. That's a control signal.
Red circle, sure it's not a low value power resister?
With all the BGA's on there it's almost a pointless folly to try and troubleshoot the mobo unless you're ready to do some hot air rework.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, isn't there any main point to check out before anything in such a "characteristically" known fault? Just like main power line or buck converters etc.

melltith said:
So, isn't there any main point to check out before anything in such a "characteristically" known fault? Just like main power line or buck converters etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As long as the mobo is getting it's signals from the switches. Possible battery failure. Also possible that a ribbon connector is loose. Cheap easy fixes... hope it's one of these.
If the battery is old, and had poor SOT, start there and replace it. Then see what you got.

Remove the shorted component marked as red.
Check both contacts of motherboard for short.
Check actual power filter / component on both sides for short.
If there is a short on individual component only with contacts resulting to no short - Download an interactive schematic drawing (boardview) of you're motherboard (S7-Edge).
Locate the component. Download the PDF of schematic. Use Ctrl+F and input part no. of component from interactive schematic drawing.
This will give you component model.
Order it from any online stores such as Ebay, Aliexpress etc..
Replace.
Done ;-)
If there are shorts on Motherboard contacts after component removal:
Check for other components that are shorted.
Remove them.
Check for short and repeat process until no short.
Use previous guide to find all components to replace.
solder the components. If short is on a microcontroller with BGA, Better to buy ones with the solder balls pre soldered from aliexpress. This WILL require a heat gun, flux, tweezers, patience, and precision.

Vancerality said:
Remove the shorted component marked as red.
Check both contacts of motherboard for short.
Check actual power filter / component on both sides for short.
If there is a short - Download an interactive schematic drawing.
Locate the component. Download the PDF of schematic. Use Ctrl+F and input part no. of component from interactive schematic drawing.
This will give you component model.
Order it from any online stores such as Ebay, Aliexpress etc..
Replace.
Done ;-)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check "shorted" component's resistance once out of circuit... it may not be the short.

blackhawk said:
Check "shorted" component's resistance once out of circuit... it may not be the short.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes. Pretty sure OP knows that short is about 0 ohms but you never know...

Vancerality said:
Yes. Pretty sure OP knows that short is about 0 ohms but you never know...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It could be a low value... it doesn't look fried in the image.

blackhawk said:
It could be a low value... it doesn't look fried in the image.
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Looks may be deceiving from outside but what matters is inside. Most modern (even low cost) multimeters have diode mode which will send audiable beep to indicate of short.