Database Users

Lots of Alternator Whine in Car with Hero

Anyone else experiencing this? I'm hooking my hero up directly to the AUX Input. My mp3 player is fine, but the hero whines so much its unbearable. What's up with this?

So your alternator is humming or your hero? *jk
Could be a a frequency output of the radio. It could really be anything, there are so many electrical circuits close by to know from here. Does it whine if you put it into normal speakers?

Sounds like the 2 are getting along

When I hook mine into the AUX, I don't get any whine.........but then the electric motors normally don't create a whine effect.
Prius FTW
Thanks,
Bubba.

is your hero charging off the cigarette lighter?
if so, you are likely hearing noise induced from your car's electrical (charging) system.
You can:
1. try and replace the alternator with a newer one that is designed to isolate or reduce induced electrical noise. (this seems impractical and cost inefficient)
or
2. try and prevent any oscillations from getting to your phone by using a ferrite ring on your charging cord. (most practical option)
3. try an aux cable with better shielding

bubbacs1 said:
When I hook mine into the AUX, I don't get any whine.........but then the electric motors normally don't create a whine effect.
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Click to collapse
Only a whiny, butt hole-clinched effect..

check your aux cable

like obelisk79 mentioned. if your charging.its a ground loop.

morbidpete said:
like obelisk79 mentioned. if your charging.its a ground loop.
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+2
tenchars

I had a cheap USB car charger that did this after a few months of use.

mccsomthin said:
I had a cheap USB car charger that did this after a few months of use.
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+1
I also had a cheap charger that did this. I returned it and bought a Belkin Ipod charger that was simply a 12-volt usb port with an Ipod USB cable (threw the cable away). I use the stock HTC USB cable and there is zero feedback now.
An added bonus is that I can charge anything with a USB port now in my car.

I too, use an iPod charger with a usb cable. I get tons of alternator whine too. I just like to pretend that it's a turbo.
But really, I'm going to try a ferrite sometime

Actually, using a charger doesn't affect it. The alternator whine is still present in both scenarios.
How much would the length/shielding of the cables be responsible for this?
I've also done some research and come across a possible "Big 3 Upgrade" solution. Involving upgrading the 3 most important grounding wires in the car.
"Definition: the "Big Three" upgrade means improving the current capacity of three cables: 1) alternator positive to battery positive, 2) battery negative to chassis, and 3) engine ground to chassis."

My old car used to do this. I replaced my stereo with a decent aftermarket one and the whining stopped. When I say decent I'm not talking like $500 Alpine or whatever, I just went to walmart and picked up a Sony that had an AUX input for like $100.
Since your stereo already has an AUX input it's probably already higher quality than the old stereo in my old car, but still, if you were looking for an excuse to get a new stereo this could be it.

swears11 said:
Anyone else experiencing this? I'm hooking my hero up directly to the AUX Input. My mp3 player is fine, but the hero whines so much its unbearable. What's up with this?
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Click to collapse
I would suggest checking engine and body grounds to make sure they have not corroded away, most automotive manufacture's recommend replacing all grounding lines every 80-100k miles and more often in "salty air" regions. Grounds go bad first but the hot lines will also decay, more so in modern cars as the wires are subjected to more flex with the softer engine mounts used these days.
If your grounds look good and it still whines I would suggest hitting up Autozone or whatever local car shop you have and have them do a diagnostic run on the alt.
Once these two are eliminated or fixed and the whine still persists, well either you have a bad connection leading up to your 12v aux plug or line in jack, or your hardware has faulty buffer cap/resistors and is bleeding static into your devise.
I have built 5 Carputers, installed dozens of entertainment systems, done 3 ground-up rewires on cars, and fabricated completely custom wire harness for stand alone ECM system, the items I suggest are based on years of experience and frustration.
I have a 07 VW GTI with an Aux input built into the car so I use a m/m 3.5m audio jack patch cable and it so happens that the power cable for my Garmin GPS is the same connector so it gets used for the phone when it is needed.

Go to RS put a cap between + and - , or get some stuff for interference for CB's (both have frequency filters for sound).
I feed my charger through the primary of a transformer, and take the secondary to ground. So all the non dc goes to ground.

willy900wonka said:
Go to RS put a cap between + and - , or get some stuff for interference for CB's (both have frequency filters for sound).
I feed my charger through the primary of a transformer, and take the secondary to ground. So all the non dc goes to ground.
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Click to collapse
There seem to be a lot of people in here knowledgeable about RFI.. are you guys electrical engineers / ham radio operators as well? Im a ham operator and have studied hours on end about RFI issues and you guys all know what you're talking about.

I had that problem using an cheap FM transmitter plugged into my Hero and the lighter. The way I fixed it was to just turn down the volume on my Hero and turning up the radio volume. Just try it to see if it works for you, too.

Ground loop isolator at radio shack for 15 bucks.

katmandu421 said:
Ground loop isolator at radio shack for 15 bucks.
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ding! was gonna suggest the exact same thing.

Any way to charge phone while listening to music in car?

i have an incredible, also have an incredible idea...
the most annoying thing about listening to music in the car with any phone is the buzz I hear when it's plugged in. is there any way to stop this from happening?
My idea is a plug that sits in the car cigarette lighter port that you plug your car charger into. Inside of the plug is a small li-ion battery that is charged by the car, and charges the phone...
This way when the car revs up it doesn't produce all that noise thru your speakers and ruin your"incredible" music experience.
Anyone think this is a good idea, you think it could work? Obviously there are a few ways to use this idea separate from the one i described... Is there anything like this available?

generic.imitation said:
i have an incredible, also have an incredible idea...
the most annoying thing about listening to music in the car with any phone is the buzz I hear when it's plugged in. is there any way to stop this from happening?
My idea is a plug that sits in the car cigarette lighter port that you plug your car charger into. Inside of the plug is a small li-ion battery that is charged by the car, and charges the phone...
This way when the car revs up it doesn't produce all that noise thru your speakers and ruin your"incredible" music experience.
Anyone think this is a good idea, you think it could work? Obviously there are a few ways to use this idea separate from the one i described... Is there anything like this available?
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Click to collapse
Great Idea, though there are some cheap solutions for this already. The humming is usually caused due to different grounds.
You need to try a ground loop isolator..You can get them at radio shack for $12 bucks or so.
http://www.amazon.com/GROUND-LOOP-ISOLATOR-3-5-APPLICATIONS/dp/B001EAQTRI

kntdookoo said:
Great Idea, though there are some cheap solutions for this already. The humming is usually caused due to different grounds.
You need to try a ground loop isolator..You can get them at radio shack for $12 bucks or so.
http://www.amazon.com/GROUND-LOOP-ISOLATOR-3-5-APPLICATIONS/dp/B001EAQTRI
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Click to collapse
Thanks a million, this is exactly what I need. I still wonder if my idea will work also tho (and here i thought I was on to something lol)

tell us more about your car stereo situation, because I don't hear any buzzing when using my phone either plugged into the USB port of my Alpine radio, or via BT while plugged into the USB port of the Alpine radio, or charging via the 12v cig adapter...

tell us more about your car stereo situation (and what car we are talking about), because I don't hear any buzzing when using my phone either plugged into the USB port of my Alpine radio, or via BT while plugged into the USB port of the Alpine radio, or charging via the 12v cig adapter... Ground loops can be simply caused by improperly grounded equipment as well. So it's better to fix the bad grounds first, rather than resort to buying more "band-aids"...

seanmcd72 said:
tell us more about your car stereo situation (and what car we are talking about), because I don't hear any buzzing when using my phone either plugged into the USB port of my Alpine radio, or via BT while plugged into the USB port of the Alpine radio, or charging via the 12v cig adapter... Ground loops can be simply caused by improperly grounded equipment as well. So it's better to fix the bad grounds first, rather than resort to buying more "band-aids"...
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Well, i have an 07 scion tc. Don't have a usb plug for my stereo tho, or bluetooth in the car. I plug it into the line in port inside my center console. I find I get more feedback if I plug it into the front charging port, so I plug it into the power port in the center console also. I can't really have it charge and sit in my car mount tho because the charger line wont stretch far enough. If I could plug it into the front one and play music it would be fine tho.

seanmcd72 said:
tell us more about your car stereo situation (and what car we are talking about), because I don't hear any buzzing when using my phone either plugged into the USB port of my Alpine radio, or via BT while plugged into the USB port of the Alpine radio, or charging via the 12v cig adapter... Ground loops can be simply caused by improperly grounded equipment as well. So it's better to fix the bad grounds first, rather than resort to buying more "band-aids"...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why the double post You can always press EDIT at the bottom of your previous post to add to your post.
Since his car is somewhat new im sure the grounding and electrical system is fine. This maybe his only option. I found in my company's 08 civic the humming is very loud when the DI is charging. Though, on my 07 BMW and wifes highlander I dont hear a thing...I guess different cars produce different results. A ground loop isolator does help in most cases. Even though it is a problem originating of the power source itself, this filter/isolator is worth a try.

Is a ground thang, heres the fix.
Ok I have had this issue with 5 vehicles, 6 phones, and 3 different XM units and found that just touching the ground of the vehicle to the ground of the audio device causes it to buzz, so it is a ground loop issue meaning the cool battery idea will not work. Somthing I did do in the early days that has always worked is to take one of those inverters that plugs into your lighter and puts out 110AC and plug your home adapter into that, isolates and works great. I just happened to have one so thought i would do it. The cool thing is that you do not have to buy somthing new for the car every time you change devices ;-) The other is to go bluetooth, works great.

Sounds like you may need new spark plug wires?

kntdookoo said:
Why the double post You can always press EDIT at the bottom of your previous post to add to your post.
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Click to collapse
Accident? Conspiracy? Who knows??!

generic.imitation said:
Well, i have an 07 scion tc. Don't have a usb plug for my stereo tho, or bluetooth in the car. I plug it into the line in port inside my center console. I find I get more feedback if I plug it into the front charging port, so I plug it into the power port in the center console also. I can't really have it charge and sit in my car mount tho because the charger line wont stretch far enough. If I could plug it into the front one and play music it would be fine tho.
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So is your stereo stock or have you modified it? (amps, etc. ??)

seanmcd72 said:
So is your stereo stock or have you modified it? (amps, etc. ??)
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Stock.
I will probably get an inverter or that isolator soon, thanks for all the help.
I might have a friend check out my grounds too seeing as most people here are saying that could fix it as well.

never had the issue in any car ive owned

junjlo said:
never had the issue in any car ive owned
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You've not installed many stereos then.
... I've fixed damn alternator whine noises more times than I can remember, that is for sure.

Noise suppression
Have a look at the crutchfield guide on noise suppression. just visit crutchfield.com and seach on noise suppression. I would post a l.ink but am not allowed to ..

generic.imitation said:
Stock.
I will probably get an inverter or that isolator soon, thanks for all the help.
I might have a friend check out my grounds too seeing as most people here are saying that could fix it as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If it's stock, probably no reason to check any ground issues. I would check the quality of the cable you are using though...

I think it's an alternator whine like Humpa said. I'll look for a fix, maybe i can figure something out. It whines more when I hit the gas, if it is idling then I can't really hear it.

[Q] metal strip on top under power

When I put my phone to the charger, the metal strip at the top is under power.
When I get a call and it's on the charger it's even worse and hurts my ear .
The same happens when I charge it by USB on my PC.
Is there anyone who has (had) the same problem or more important has a solution?
The phone has already been twice to repair but it's still not solved.
Greetz,
Ceefman

I have not experienced this problem. Please take it to your local HTC Centre or the shop where you bought you HD Mini, this is not normal behaviour. There are in fact a lot of defect units in HD Mini

Ceefman said:
When I put my phone to the charger, the metal strip at the top is under power.
When I get a call and it's on the charger it's even worse and hurts my ear .
The same happens when I charge it by USB on my PC.
Is there anyone who has (had) the same problem or more important has a solution?
The phone has already been twice to repair but it's still not solved.
Greetz,
Ceefman
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
me too. but I noticed that this issue was only with my old laptop (5-6 years old). honestly it seems that with my new laptop the mini doesn't fry my ears...

Ceefman said:
When I put my phone to the charger, the metal strip at the top is under power.
When I get a call and it's on the charger it's even worse and hurts my ear .
The same happens when I charge it by USB on my PC.
Is there anyone who has (had) the same problem or more important has a solution?
The phone has already been twice to repair but it's still not solved.
Greetz,
Ceefman
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In most modern power supplies/chargers there is a high value resistor and low value capacitor connected between the 'Mains' side of the unit and the output. This can sometimes cause this effect. If you run a sensitive part of the body (the back of the hand for example) along a metal cased item (such as a video recorder or hi-fi unit) you can sometimes feel it there too. I could be that your ear is sensitive enough to pick up this (very) slight voltage.
If you can feel it in your ear, but not in your fingers, it is most likely to be this small 'bleed' voltage and is normal. You could try a different make of charger (or as suggested above) a usb port from a computer and you might find that you are less sensitive to the values of resistor/capacitor fitted in these alternate power supplies.
The old style of power supply with a weighty transformer didn't need the 'bleed' resistor/capacitors and so you only noticed this effect when connecting an 'old' style item to a 'newer' one when you could sometimes see a small spark when the two were connected. Again you might sometimes see this effect when plugging an aerial lead into a TV or Video Recorder, for the same reasons.

Its very simple, your computer is not earthed correctly. I had the same problem with my last apartment, when I charged the phone thru my computer and touched the radiator with my foot the phone bite my ear.
The apartment had old sockets without earthing pins.
My phone has not breaked down due to this but I have problem with usb connection to my computer, it always find the phone as unknown device.
So if you pull a wire between you computer chassie and a radiator or sink this problem will disappear.
/J

Incredible car project

I've had my Incredible for a month or two now, and rooted it the day I picked it up. I've dug all over this forum learning the ins and outs of this phone, and figured I'd finally give something back.
Car audio has always been a big hobby of mine, and I actually competed in sound quality a couple of years back. So, while researching the Incredible, as soon as I discovered the tv-out cable, my first thought was to feed it into my car. I was very proud of myself thinking I was the first person to come up with this...until I started searching, and realized I wasn't. At all.
Either way, it was hard finding info on this solution because google pulls nothing but details about the cable, and very little on the solution, so I figured I'd put what I've got here.
I have a 2005 Honda Accord with the factory 6 disc changer in the dash. The dual zone climate controls are integrated into the factory radio, so if you remove it, you lose that functionality (which I didn't want to do). There is a large storage pocket that is removable underneath the radio that allows for an aftermarket head unit, and lower dash kits are available for doing that.
I've gotten out of competition, and just have the factory deck now, but wanted a way to play music from any phone I had. PAC makes auxiliary input adapters that integrate with factory radios for just about any car. I bought one for my car, installed it, and can now plug in anything via 3.5mm headphone jack or by RCA.
When I got the phone, my first idea was a car dock where I could plug in the headphone jack and then charge it, but I hated the idea of having to deal with two cables every time. I had started off using CM7, liked it, but read people complaining about no tv-out functionality, which I could care less about, but the option being available meant that audio going out would be no problem, and since the cable has another input for charging, I could have a one plug solution, and so the project began.
I flashed my phone to SR4.0 to have the tv-out capability, (and love the ROM. I like a lot of the more sense based layouts)
First, the cable. The phone only recognizes tv-out when the video input is connected. This posed a problem for me, as I only needed audio. If the solution has been posted before, I couldn't find it, but if you take a female rca jack, or use a male rca jack with a coupler, and short the signal and ground wires together, the phone goes into tv-out mode and will send audio. I had a cheap pair of radio shack rca's laying around, and cut one end off to test this, and it worked flawlessly. In car audio, they're called muting plugs, and are used to troubleshoot engine noise issues.
Second, the charger. I didn't want to use my car charger port, so after some light research to make sure I wasn't missing anything, I confirmed you can take a car charger apart, solder a ground wire to the wire connected to the metal that sticks out of the side of the charger, and solder a power wire to the part going to the tip. On the charger I used, a fuse was inline, and if you want to retain that, you can use a large zip tie and heatshrink to retain it. I didn't b/c the charger was cheap, and if something was to ever short, it'd burn that out first. Regardless, solder leads to power and ground, and then tap into the wiring going into your factory accessory outlet (or cigarette lighter). Use a test light or multimeter to determine power from ground.
Third, the dock. Google sucks at finding good horizontal docking solutions. My first idea was to buy a horizontal cradle and fab it into the lower dash kit, but that's a lot of cutting, as well as having to remove the usb plug on the dock (because it's not extUSB), and really at the end of the day, you just need an L shaped piece of plastic with a hole cut out where the usb is. I was looking at Droid X docks with my friend, and noticed there are a lot of swivel mount car docks for that phone, and thought that'd be a lot easier to do. Further searching led me to proclip.com where they have docks for about any mobile device. *I tried posting a link, but spam got me* I found them while searching for docks thanks to someone on an ATV forum linking the site. It seems people are using their droids for navigation while going off-roading, and use these docks to keep them anchored.
On the quick search at the bottom of the main page, check the box saying you already have a mount, then under holders, select HTC Incredible to pull up the docks. I purchased 511147, holder with tilt swivel, and received it two days after ordering. It's very rugged, and the swivel seems well built. The mount on the right provides room to comfortably plug in a charger or cable, and I'm going to fab a piece to attach the tv-out cable and charger, and route the wire behind it and through the kit. The dock will be attached to the lower dash kit, and a little ABS plastic, epoxy putty, and paint will smooth over any seams. The other nice thing about this for me is the lower dash kit has a cutout for an aftermarket radio, and a spare pocket underneath. Using the dock, I still have full use of the pocket.
If you don't want to do this much custom fabrication, you can use one of their solutions. On the main page, select your car make and model, and they will provide you with the mounts they have. Their mounts attach to the car without screws or tape, and then from there you select your dock, which attaches to the mount.
Sorry this is long and somewhat rambly, but I've seen a lot of posts and questions asking about this kind of solution, with no clear definitive answer. I drove to work this morning listening to pandora via the tv out cable on my factory radio, with the phone being charged and zero problems.
Another side note, there is an adapter for the HTC Hero that is an extUSB plug that goes into a piece that has extUSB input, power input, and 3.5mm out. It's a lot more ideal for this solution, but doesn't work. The extUSB plug is shaped differently, and the pinouts are laid out differently in the plug. If someone was good at soldering, it'd make an even cleaner solution, as you could rout the adapter behind the dash and plug everything into it.
If someone was interested in swapping the ends on that adapter with one that'd fit the Incredible, I'd be willing to pay for it, just for the lower profile and aesthetics of what I'm doing.
I'll update this with pictures once I get it all installed. Hopefully this is helpful, and I didn't just waste a bunch of time typing what was in another post that I've been unable to find.

Thanks for wasting 5 minutes of my life. Just kidding. Thanks for the write up. Can't wait to see pictures.
Sent from my ADR6300 using XDA App

I was going to wait and reply later, But I have been reading up on this subject, There are a lot of people using pads and removing there radios. So to see a phone doing this hope the pics are good

It'll be next week before I can get any up, headed out of town for the weekend tomorrow, but will grab pics of what I have now and will show the install progress as I go.
Hopefully I can get to 11 posts between now and then so I can throw up pics and links to what's going on.

Air Conditioner Problem with Android Player

Hi everyone,
few days go i bought a android player: https://pl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001475429868.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.68965c0fBhleYi
and i have some problems with that.
I installed it in my Ford Mondeo / Fusion 2013 with additional display "Converse+".
I plugged my new radio correctly and after first start the machine everything was ok. But after second starting the A/C panel lost the communication with the car and i cant use the A/C panel anymore...
There is one option to resolve that: Unplug car battery and plug it - after that, the AC pan will work again with the first start of the machine, but after second will not working.
Can u help me? Where is the problem? I tried to switch between many Canbus options but the result was the same.
If you need more Information, let me know which one do you need.
Thank you in advance

Hi, is the unit an MTCD/E?
Also, what did the reseller suggest when contacted for support?

If you disconnect power just to the new radio does the air conditioning panel work? Does the panel work as expected with every stop and start of the engine without the radio connected? An easy way to disconnect the radio and verify may be to pull the radio fuse.
The problem with pulling battery cable is that you effectively power off everything in the car and that doesn't isolate just the radio as the exclusive source of the problem.
Have you contacted the reseller as your particular unit could be defective. Since you probably are within the return period, an exchange or return might be in order.

I think that radio has no impact to my issue. When the A/C stopped working, i unplugged the power of radio and nothing changed.
Only when I unplug the A/C panel and plug it back in does everything start working.
When i contacted to reseller he told me only that i should choose another one canbus setting - but it doesnt start to work.
I added two picture of the plugs in this radio and a/c panel.

It's kinda weird but i changed canbus option for (MAX 06-20) instead of mondeo and now it's working for few hours and it looks good. It looks like the canbus option was bad, buuuuuuut... i had this canbus selected few days ago and it worked for more than one day. After that one day the A/C panel lost communication and it stopped to work. I think, that the situation will be again the same this time - i mean that tomorrow it will not be working.
PoppaRoxie1986 said:
If you disconnect power just to the new radio does the air conditioning panel work? Does the panel work as expected with every stop and start of the engine without the radio connected? An easy way to disconnect the radio and verify may be to pull the radio fuse.
The problem with pulling battery cable is that you effectively power off everything in the car and that doesn't isolate just the radio as the exclusive source of the problem.
Have you contacted the reseller as your particular unit could be defective. Since you probably are within the return period, an exchange or return might be in order.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I contacted with the reseller but with no results. Im not sure if that radio is defective, because i know at least 3 people, who have the same issue as me - so everyone has the defective unit? May be.
I contacted with man who checked everything and he said that there is two options: can module software or even can module is broken. The problem is here, that the can module is inside the radio so i cant even change it.
So this is question for you: do u know how can i 'update' the can module software?
Please for some advices..

Bring in a dedicated V+ and ground for it.
You may have inadvertantly created a ground loop, made the V+ "dirty" and/or created an excessive voltage drop on the V+.
Don't daisy chain the V+ or ground; bring it straight off the fuse block or battery terminal with heavy gauge wire. The ground can probably come off the common grounding point used for the A/C or a main ground point on the firewall.

blackhawk said:
Bring in a dedicated V+ and ground for it.
You may have inadvertantly created a ground loop, made the V+ "dirty" and/or created an excessive voltage drop on the V+.
Don't daisy chain the V+ or ground; bring it straight off the fuse block or battery terminal with heavy gauge wire. The ground can probably come off the common grounding point used for the A/C or a main ground point on the firewall.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeap, i thought about this and it will resolve my issue for sure, but what about car battery? This solution will not take too much battery?
so basically there is no other solution? i think you're right. The voltage (somehow) dropped down and the can module lost the communication - it's reasonable

misiek43210 said:
Yeap, i thought about this and it will resolve my issue for sure, but what about car battery? This solution will not take too much battery?
so basically there is no other solution? i think you're right. The voltage (somehow) dropped down and the can module lost the communication - it's reasonable
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's not a question of current draw, it's an issue of clean power. A thicker gauge wire is best.
A ground and V+ coming straight off the battery if you're really paranoid or have dirty power*. A twisted pair (use a drill about 8-12 turns a foot) of 14 or 16 gauge stranded wire should do it, put a fuse on the battery end.
A line filter can also be used but the sourcing/wiring is the most important step.
You may need to sheild your new toy if it's emitting rf that's causing the issue in nearby components.
An oscilloscope be helpful to see what's going on.
*autos are notoriously electrically noisy environments with nasty high voltage spikes, AC ripple, rf, all kinds of junk.

blackhawk said:
It's not a question of current draw, it's an issue of clean power. A thicker gauge wire is best.
A ground and V+ coming straight off the battery if you're really paranoid or have dirty power*. A twisted pair (use a drill about 8-12 turns a foot) of 14 or 16 gauge stranded wire should do it, put a fuse on the battery end.
A line filter can also be used but the sourcing/wiring is the most important step.
You may need to sheild your new toy if it's emitting rf that's causing the issue in nearby components.
An oscilloscope be helpful to see what's going on.
*autos are notoriously electrically noisy environments with nasty high voltage spikes, AC ripple, rf, all kinds of junk.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, thats sounds good.
So i have to find dedicated V+ - but V+ even when the key is not in the ignition?
Sorry, my questions could be stupid, but i'm really newbie in this.
Anyway, many thanks for your help!!!

misiek43210 said:
Ok, thats sounds good.
So i have to find dedicated V+ - but V+ even when the key is not in the ignition?
Sorry, my questions could be stupid, but i'm really newbie in this.
Anyway, many thanks for your help!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can come off the hot side of the fuse block* or directly from the battery if you really want to go the extra mile.
Using a stranded heavy gauge twisted pair V+/ground will help to sheild it. Solder or properly crimp the connections.
Shielding for assemblies is simple; a piece of sheet metal, metal box etc securely attached to the car chassis (ground).
*if the main fuse block is under the hood it may be easier to use the battery. Do Not come off the alternator though.

And the same situation. As i said yesterday, today it will not work and i were right.
Maybe there is another option to resolve that? for example new can module software? or this is only problem with V+?

misiek43210 said:
And the same situation. As i said yesterday, today it will not work and i were right.
Maybe there is another option to resolve that? for example new can module software? or this is only problem with V+?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Firmware will not fix a power issue.
You need clean power and a good ground.
Automotive grounding uses many points on the chassis. This can lead to ground loops. A potential issue for aftermarket add ons.
On the V+ side daisy chaining off the fuse block is a common practice and can cause voltage drops as well "dirty" power. Usually coming directly off the fuse block and using one of the main dash or firewall grounding points is sufficient. Otherwise come directly off the battery terminal especially for the V+.
Again using a twisted heavy gauge pair off the battery will help to sheild it and prevent excessive voltage drops.
Any amps etc that are tied in should all have the --same- common grounding point and their V+ coming from the dedicated V+ wire. Extremely heavy current drawing amps should have their own V+ wire.
Both V+ and ground wires need to be heavy.
Battery>heavy gauge wire>common tapp rather than daisy chaining all with one wire.
Always use stranded wire, minimum #12, heavier than that is better. Make sure it's fused on the + source end!

misiek43210 said:
Hi everyone,
few days go i bought a android player: https://pl.aliexpress.com/item/1005001475429868.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.68965c0fBhleYi
and i have some problems with that.
I installed it in my Ford Mondeo / Fusion 2013 with additional display "Converse+".
I plugged my new radio correctly and after first start the machine everything was ok. But after second starting the A/C panel lost the communication with the car and i cant use the A/C panel anymore...
There is one option to resolve that: Unplug car battery and plug it - after that, the AC pan will work again with the first start of the machine, but after second will not working.
Can u help me? Where is the problem? I tried to switch between many Canbus options but the result was the same.
If you need more Information, let me know which one do you need.
Thank you in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is the device an mtce/d

marchnz said:
Is the device an mtce/d
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have checked it right know and.. Its Not even MTC X... Look at this. Do u know what **** is this?

misiek43210 said:
I have checked it right know and.. Its Not even MTC X... Look at this. Do u know what **** is this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think its an FYT device - I'll ask a mod to move it to the Android Head units forum, that way your post will get more exposure.