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Joying Intel Unit - No Bluetooth Audio from phone

Hi. I just received a brand new out the box replacement Headunit from Joying and Im fearing its brand new defective. When I pair my phone to the device and try to make a phone call, the entire call (both inbound and outbound) is completely mute. There's no audio and I cannot hear anything on the call. When I switch the audio source back to my phone even while on the call I can hear everything fine. I checked my bluetooth settings on my cell phone and they all seemed okay. Phone Audio is enabled, likewise Media. I rebooted, unpaired and re-paired both my phone and head unit. Nothing works... I cannot hear what the other party is saying.
Music and videos all work fine, however; I ALSO cannot hear the touch button input when I touch the screen like I could on my older unit. What happened?

Im worried the MCU might be bad.

Please check whether you have connected the external microphone well,you can check this blog:https://www.joyingauto.com/blog/post/how-to-test-and-check-mic-issue-for-joying-android-head-unit/

SummerLiu said:
Please check whether you have connected the external microphone well,you can check this blog:https://www.joyingauto.com/blog/post/how-to-test-and-check-mic-issue-for-joying-android-head-unit/
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Click to collapse
Hi, the issue isn't the microphone, I am unable to hear any audio from the call itself which means I can't hear who I am talking to. This is different from the issue where no one can hear me. I tried even with the external microphone completely disconnected and got the same results.
One thing noted from that blog is checking the speaker wire, I'm using the same radio harness as I was using on my older defective 6021 motherboard and the one before that. I compared the coloring on the wiring harness and pinouts on the connector and they look exactly the same so I don't believe its a speaker wire issue either. When I play regular my front speakers work fine.

I am noticing that the equilizer seems to think my front right speakers are my front left and it thinks my front left speakers are my front right. The back speakers seem to be configured properly (when I select back audio only plays out the back, when I go front right audio plays out the front left, and vice versa.) I checked the wiring and the front right and properly connected to the front right wires, as are the front left and so forth... I went and redid the entire radio harness (which worked fine for 2 Joying Sofia Intel units before this one.) and it did not help. Also still no bluetooth phone calls. bluetooth AUDIO works fine but when I make a bluetooth phone call, it is COMPLETELY mute on both ends. I can't hear them and they can't hear me, regardless if the mic is connected or not.

Need4Camaro said:
I am noticing that the equilizer seems to think my front right speakers are my front left and it thinks my front left speakers are my front right. The back speakers seem to be configured properly (when I select back audio only plays out the back, when I go front right audio plays out the front left, and vice versa.) I checked the wiring and the front right and properly connected to the front right wires, as are the front left and so forth... I went and redid the entire radio harness (which worked fine for 2 Joying Sofia Intel units before this one.) and it did not help. Also still no bluetooth phone calls. bluetooth AUDIO works fine but when I make a bluetooth phone call, it is COMPLETELY mute on both ends. I can't hear them and they can't hear me, regardless if the mic is connected or not.
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Click to collapse
Did you select no amp in the car settings?

Yup
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rmW-05bJc58

gtxaspec said:
Did you select no amp in the car settings?
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Click to collapse
Yup
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rmW-05bJc58

I took the car to work today and had two additional people test their phones on the unit but we replicated the same issue. One was an iPhone and the other was an Android. While they can play bluetooth music through the unit, bluetooth phone is still completely mute, even with the external mic connected. We tried with the AMP setting configured to "IN" as well but it made no difference. I am still not getting any audio from my phone to the stereo.
I am certain all the wiring is correct. I am using a METRA adapter to my car stereo which splices into the Joying unit and it has worked fine on all previous Joying units. The Metra Harness follows the same universal stereo wiring code (white and white black / grey and grey black are front speakers) and connects to my car's factory harness. Also in the equilizer settings, although left and right audio is incorrect, front and rear audio is functioning properly. If I select only rear, only rear speakers play and if I select only front.. only front speakers play.

Did you fix it?
Need4Camaro said:
I took the car to work today and had two additional people test their phones on the unit but we replicated the same issue. One was an iPhone and the other was an Android. While they can play bluetooth music through the unit, bluetooth phone is still completely mute, even with the external mic connected. We tried with the AMP setting configured to "IN" as well but it made no difference. I am still not getting any audio from my phone to the stereo.
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Click to collapse
Hi my friend,
Did you find the way to fix your issue? 'cause I'm experimenting the same with mine... no audio througt phone calls.... would you share the solution if you found it?
TIA

same here no audio for Bluetooth calls. completely mute.
stereo joying JY-JO002N4 SC9853i

Anyone find a fix for this? Having the same issue. Unit is JY-UO139N4

Will adding the external amplifier help my situation

Helpful people,
I have bought Asottu CDZ8060 2G android 8.1 head unit of aliexpress for VW Scirocco 2010.
Unit is nice, but I get a constant buzzing noise when I connect a radio antenna (and only when it is connected).
It is always the same intensity and volume from the bootup of the headunit untill I mute the sound or shut down the car.
The noise is sublte, usually it is not a problem, but when the car engine is off it is (a big one).
I have tried:
Grounding a chassis of a radio with GND of radio
Changing the antenna wire from original cable to my radio.
Fiddling with software settings
Putting a ferrite choke over the wire
Nothing helped.
Among all of this the audio quality is worse than with the original radio.
So my wish is to improve the audio (I want it to be atleast as good as the original).
Will external amplifier help with this? Do you have any other ideas how to fix this?
There is a option of returnig this unit and buying a diefferent one, but I am scared that I will get the noise with a different after market radio also.

Eonon GA2171S processor/wifi noise interference

Recently installed a GA2171S (Px5 double din Android 8 4gb ram 32gb rom DSP version) into my Nissan Juke and quite happy with it. The built in amp and DSP module functions are nice. Factory subwoofer and speakers work well with it and subwoofer output RCA does work in this model perfectly. As a DIYer, I popped open the unit and installed a 40mm heatsink and fan to the SOC to keep it from thermal throttling. I found a 5v power lead on the board to snag power from for the fan. Keeps the fan at a lower RPM and inaudible.
My issue with the unit that I would like to improve is to try eliminating the processor noise that is produced out of the high level speaker wires as well as the RCA audio output connections. At first, I thought it was only the wifi activity I was hearing in the speakers but even with wifi disabled, I can hear a bit of processor noise like onboard audio was infamous for on cheaper PC motherboards.
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The wifi coax cable is very thin and cheap, it was routed and taped to the DSP module. I rerouted it away from the DSP chip and dramatically reduced the wifi transmission interference but it is still there. I am going to replace the wifi coax cable with a high quality one with SMA connector to attach a proper external 2.4ghz antenna to hopefully eliminate wifi transmission noise in the audio and make wifi far more functional. Right now, when I am parked in the driveway I can barely get my music to sync even though my wifi router is just 25 feet away. The head unit has no issues syncing the same music when hot-spot connected to my phone a few feet away from the unit.
What I need input from you guys is, what kind of non-conductive materials exist in order to wrap the DSP module with to eliminate RF interference from being injected into the audio. Been researching but not finding anything too straight forward.
Thanks for any input!

Hi! I have the exact same unit and I am wondering if this is due to ground issues with your vehicle?
I too have opened my unit and installed a heatsink, rerouted the wifi and gps antenna wires, also I have replaced the amplifier chip with a Pioneer PA3020A. I have never heard any processor noise, coil whine, wifi interference etc. before or after making these changes. My car is a Toyota FJ Cruiser.
My always connected devices:
WIFI: Huawei E8372 LTE
BT: OBD-II adaptor and Note 8
USB: TPMS receiver and DAB+ receiver
RCA: Reverse camera and dash cam
Another thing you can do is try turning down the amp gain. In 'Factory Settings' > 'Other' there is an option to change the amp gain. Try changing it to -9db and see how it affects things.
Good luck mate!
stevey500 said:
Recently installed a GA2171S (Px5 double din Android 8 4gb ram 32gb rom DSP version) into my Nissan Juke and quite happy with it. The built in amp and DSP module functions are nice. Factory subwoofer and speakers work well with it and subwoofer output RCA does work in this model perfectly. As a DIYer, I popped open the unit and installed a 40mm heatsink and fan to the SOC to keep it from thermal throttling. I found a 5v power lead on the board to snag power from for the fan. Keeps the fan at a lower RPM and inaudible.
My issue with the unit that I would like to improve is to try eliminating the processor noise that is produced out of the high level speaker wires as well as the RCA audio output connections. At first, I thought it was only the wifi activity I was hearing in the speakers but even with wifi disabled, I can hear a bit of processor noise like onboard audio was infamous for on cheaper PC motherboards.
The wifi coax cable is very thin and cheap, it was routed and taped to the DSP module. I rerouted it away from the DSP chip and dramatically reduced the wifi transmission interference but it is still there. I am going to replace the wifi coax cable with a high quality one with SMA connector to attach a proper external 2.4ghz antenna to hopefully eliminate wifi transmission noise in the audio and make wifi far more functional. Right now, when I am parked in the driveway I can barely get my music to sync even though my wifi router is just 25 feet away. The head unit has no issues syncing the same music when hot-spot connected to my phone a few feet away from the unit.
What I need input from you guys is, what kind of non-conductive materials exist in order to wrap the DSP module with to eliminate RF interference from being injected into the audio. Been researching but not finding anything too straight forward.
Thanks for any input!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

I have the same problem, the eonon support spreads out the hands.
I connected the radio directly to the battery. No changes.

Saitek22 said:
I have the same problem, the eonon support spreads out the hands.
I connected the radio directly to the battery. No changes.
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Click to collapse
Interesting. I cannot get that noise to go away.
Have you found out whether or not the interference noise might be produced from the low level RCA jacks, too?
Something to note, I did install one of these same units in a friends' Juke a couple weeks ago and there is NO interference noise what so ever. Difference between her car and mine though is that mine has the Rockford Fosgate audio package with 2-3ohm speakers where her basic audio has 4 ohm speakers. I wonder if it could be an impedance mismatch causing this noise.

stevey500 said:
Interesting. I cannot get that noise to go away.
Have you found out whether or not the interference noise might be produced from the low level RCA jacks, too?
Something to note, I did install one of these same units in a friends' Juke a couple weeks ago and there is NO interference noise what so ever. Difference between her car and mine though is that mine has the Rockford Fosgate audio package with 2-3ohm speakers where her basic audio has 4 ohm speakers. I wonder if it could be an impedance mismatch causing this noise.
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Click to collapse
There is a lot of dialogue on the Miata bulletin boards when you try to integrate a new head unit with the upgraded BOSE amp systems. The low impedance Bose Speakers cause mismatches when you try to use the BOSE amps with a new head unit. I have done it several ways, using the RCA jacks (not enough output) and using a matching device that takes the RCA jacks to the front end of the BOSE amps.
What I ended up using is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BFL52Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 with plenty of grounding and some ferrite cores on the signal wires.

I just installed this unit as last night in my Corolla, standard audio which is 4-ohm speakers iirc, and still get the interference I might open the box and see if I can relocate the wifi antenna, or just replace it outright as well.

Have anybody found a solution?
I just bougt this unit and have lots of static (wifi cpu ...) noise.
Tested the unit in my home on my home stereo using a stable power supply, and just the same problem.
noise on both rca (low output) and from the unit amp...

I too have the same static noise issue. I suspect it is coming from the RCA. Have you found the origin or a solution to this interference noise?

igloo77055 said:
I just installed this unit as last night in my Corolla, standard audio which is 4-ohm speakers iirc, and still get the interference I might open the box and see if I can relocate the wifi antenna, or just replace it outright as well.
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Click to collapse
tordeg said:
Have anybody found a solution?
I just bougt this unit and have lots of static (wifi cpu ...) noise.
Tested the unit in my home on my home stereo using a stable power supply, and just the same problem.
noise on both rca (low output) and from the unit amp...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you found a solution to the interference noise issue?

I bought a strong wifi cable RP-SMA but I haven't installed it yet. The sound comes from the wifi module. When the wifi is off, silence is switched off.

Saitek22 said:
I bought a strong wifi cable RP-SMA but I haven't installed it yet. The sound comes from the wifi module. When the wifi is off, silence is switched off.
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Click to collapse
Do you think it's possible to resolve the noise interference issue with MTCU update?

I think it's a hardware problem and it's just a normal interference by wifi radio waves.

Saitek22 said:
I think it's a hardware problem and it's just a normal interference by wifi radio waves.
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Click to collapse
In my case it looks like the noise is coming from processor as well as wifi module. What is your MCU? Is it WWW?

Hi, have you managed to resolve the interference noise issue?

good day know how to update firmware update for ga2171s eonon.
Thank you

Hello, Do you have the interference noise issue with your Eonon Ga2171S?

Dimmable buttons and better sound quality

Hello. Im owner of PX5 Android 9 Head Unit for BMW E46. I know hot to change buttons color but i don't know how to make it dimmable. They always have 100% brightness and it is annoying. Should i change something in radio settings or with the cable connection? 17pins BMW E46 sedan 2003 by.
Other question is - are there available mods or DSP settings for best sound quality? In my opinion this HU sound very raw even with enabled Loud. Previously BMW Business CD53 HU had very soft and warm sound quality. I would like to achieve this on this HU too.

Bump

The lighting wire (orange) from the radio needs to be connected to the wire in the car's harness that does the dashboard lighting. If your radio gets that signal through a CANbus decoder you will have to cut the wire and connect it directly to the car harness.

nic2k said:
The lighting wire (orange) from the radio needs to be connected to the wire in the car's harness that does the dashboard lighting. If your radio gets that signal through a CANbus decoder you will have to cut the wire and connect it directly to the car harness.
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Click to collapse
thanks i will try that.
And any advices for better sound quality? My previously CD 53 had better sound quality (more soft and warm) than this TDA 7851 based device.

The way you hear sound is personal. Your factory HU would have been tuned and equalized to sound that way so you'll have to play with the equalizer to replicate it. The DSP in those units is missing preset effects like you would find on a home theater receiver. You should probably start by making sure the speaker settings match what's in the car like distance and # of ways. If you find the sound too harsh look at lowering the low pass filter frequency and try a different type of filter. You can adjust the PHAT slider to give the sound more volume. Too bad there isn't an easy way to control reverb directly. Then adjust the equalizer to your taste.

nic2k said:
You should probably start by making sure the speaker settings match what's in the car like distance and # of ways.
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Click to collapse
Different radio (original BMW) sound warm and soft. This, even with playing on different EQ settings and DSP cant achieve this warm quality. Im using car amp and hertz DCX 165.3 on rear, Audio system MX165 PLUS on front. Everything is connected to amp via Hi_Lo converter. Should i connect this HU with RCA cable? Does this affect on sound quality?
Also are available somewhere custom setting presets for EQ and DSP?

Oh no wonder you're getting a different sound than the factory radio you're using a line level converter. Some people swear they don't change the sound and some other have better hearing and swear they hear a difference. Either way there's no denying basic electronic principles if you drive a signal through coils it will affect the signal more than just reducing the amplitude. It will definitely add/change harmonics and it might not respond evenly at all frequencies. Something like that is probably acceptable to drive a subwoofer. It would take some finely tuned filtering of the output to get the same signal that went in.
If you're using an external amp you should connect it to the RCA's. The problem with these Chinese HU is the line out level is too low they're still living in the 80's when a 1 V line level was standard. Some amps have an adjustable line in maybe find one that works with 1 V.
It might not matter as much but you replaced the factory speakers, all speakers sound different. Usually aftermarket speakers have better quality and sound than factory.

nic2k said:
It might not matter as much but you replaced the factory speakers, all speakers sound different. Usually aftermarket speakers have better quality and sound than factory.
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yes i know, but my external amp and new speakers were installed also on previously radio.
i will try connecting this HU with RCA cable

Buzz sound help

Hey guys. I have a Joying headunit and recently i was on a call via bluetooth and the other person said they can here buzz sound so I decided to do some test and started voice recording on the headunit and found out that when car parking lights or headlights are on, it records that buzz sound. Lights off and the sound is gone. Anyone would know, why?

Wen you say you were on a call with BT, can you clarify what you mean. You had a bluetooth headset on in your car connected to your HU? Your HU was getting getting phone call how? Also BT? to you phone? Or you mean your HU was BT to your phone but you were using the HU mic? If your sing BT headset that seems odd and more likely an issue with your headset. IF however you mean you were using BT to connect phone to HU(aka handsfree) and you were using the HU mic(or external mic) welcome to the chinese head unit party. The mics and the internal components are poorly shielded from engine and other electronic noise. Only thing you can really do is buy a better external mic and see if it helps.

gottahavit said:
Wen you say you were on a call with BT, can you clarify what you mean. You had a bluetooth headset on in your car connected to your HU? Your HU was getting getting phone call how? Also BT? to you phone? Or you mean your HU was BT to your phone but you were using the HU mic? If your sing BT headset that seems odd and more likely an issue with your headset. IF however you mean you were using BT to connect phone to HU(aka handsfree) and you were using the HU mic(or external mic) welcome to the chinese head unit party. The mics and the internal components are poorly shielded from engine and other electronic noise. Only thing you can really do is buy a better external mic and see if it helps.
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Click to collapse
That's typically from too much power draw in your cars electrical system. Which can also mean you have some poor grounding. It doesn't hurt to start adding ground straps all around the car. Ground battery to chassis, ground block with ground of battery, ground body with block etc. Inside the car behind the head unit, you can ground your ground wire with a T connection to somewhere metal in the dash. That will help with the buzzing sound while your lights are on and functioning.

well if he's talking about sound on a bt headset,that's something very different, but I assume he meant standard hands free.