Eonon GA2171S processor/wifi noise interference - Android Head-Units

Recently installed a GA2171S (Px5 double din Android 8 4gb ram 32gb rom DSP version) into my Nissan Juke and quite happy with it. The built in amp and DSP module functions are nice. Factory subwoofer and speakers work well with it and subwoofer output RCA does work in this model perfectly. As a DIYer, I popped open the unit and installed a 40mm heatsink and fan to the SOC to keep it from thermal throttling. I found a 5v power lead on the board to snag power from for the fan. Keeps the fan at a lower RPM and inaudible.
My issue with the unit that I would like to improve is to try eliminating the processor noise that is produced out of the high level speaker wires as well as the RCA audio output connections. At first, I thought it was only the wifi activity I was hearing in the speakers but even with wifi disabled, I can hear a bit of processor noise like onboard audio was infamous for on cheaper PC motherboards.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
The wifi coax cable is very thin and cheap, it was routed and taped to the DSP module. I rerouted it away from the DSP chip and dramatically reduced the wifi transmission interference but it is still there. I am going to replace the wifi coax cable with a high quality one with SMA connector to attach a proper external 2.4ghz antenna to hopefully eliminate wifi transmission noise in the audio and make wifi far more functional. Right now, when I am parked in the driveway I can barely get my music to sync even though my wifi router is just 25 feet away. The head unit has no issues syncing the same music when hot-spot connected to my phone a few feet away from the unit.
What I need input from you guys is, what kind of non-conductive materials exist in order to wrap the DSP module with to eliminate RF interference from being injected into the audio. Been researching but not finding anything too straight forward.
Thanks for any input!

Hi! I have the exact same unit and I am wondering if this is due to ground issues with your vehicle?
I too have opened my unit and installed a heatsink, rerouted the wifi and gps antenna wires, also I have replaced the amplifier chip with a Pioneer PA3020A. I have never heard any processor noise, coil whine, wifi interference etc. before or after making these changes. My car is a Toyota FJ Cruiser.
My always connected devices:
WIFI: Huawei E8372 LTE
BT: OBD-II adaptor and Note 8
USB: TPMS receiver and DAB+ receiver
RCA: Reverse camera and dash cam
Another thing you can do is try turning down the amp gain. In 'Factory Settings' > 'Other' there is an option to change the amp gain. Try changing it to -9db and see how it affects things.
Good luck mate!
stevey500 said:
Recently installed a GA2171S (Px5 double din Android 8 4gb ram 32gb rom DSP version) into my Nissan Juke and quite happy with it. The built in amp and DSP module functions are nice. Factory subwoofer and speakers work well with it and subwoofer output RCA does work in this model perfectly. As a DIYer, I popped open the unit and installed a 40mm heatsink and fan to the SOC to keep it from thermal throttling. I found a 5v power lead on the board to snag power from for the fan. Keeps the fan at a lower RPM and inaudible.
My issue with the unit that I would like to improve is to try eliminating the processor noise that is produced out of the high level speaker wires as well as the RCA audio output connections. At first, I thought it was only the wifi activity I was hearing in the speakers but even with wifi disabled, I can hear a bit of processor noise like onboard audio was infamous for on cheaper PC motherboards.
The wifi coax cable is very thin and cheap, it was routed and taped to the DSP module. I rerouted it away from the DSP chip and dramatically reduced the wifi transmission interference but it is still there. I am going to replace the wifi coax cable with a high quality one with SMA connector to attach a proper external 2.4ghz antenna to hopefully eliminate wifi transmission noise in the audio and make wifi far more functional. Right now, when I am parked in the driveway I can barely get my music to sync even though my wifi router is just 25 feet away. The head unit has no issues syncing the same music when hot-spot connected to my phone a few feet away from the unit.
What I need input from you guys is, what kind of non-conductive materials exist in order to wrap the DSP module with to eliminate RF interference from being injected into the audio. Been researching but not finding anything too straight forward.
Thanks for any input!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

I have the same problem, the eonon support spreads out the hands.
I connected the radio directly to the battery. No changes.

Saitek22 said:
I have the same problem, the eonon support spreads out the hands.
I connected the radio directly to the battery. No changes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting. I cannot get that noise to go away.
Have you found out whether or not the interference noise might be produced from the low level RCA jacks, too?
Something to note, I did install one of these same units in a friends' Juke a couple weeks ago and there is NO interference noise what so ever. Difference between her car and mine though is that mine has the Rockford Fosgate audio package with 2-3ohm speakers where her basic audio has 4 ohm speakers. I wonder if it could be an impedance mismatch causing this noise.

stevey500 said:
Interesting. I cannot get that noise to go away.
Have you found out whether or not the interference noise might be produced from the low level RCA jacks, too?
Something to note, I did install one of these same units in a friends' Juke a couple weeks ago and there is NO interference noise what so ever. Difference between her car and mine though is that mine has the Rockford Fosgate audio package with 2-3ohm speakers where her basic audio has 4 ohm speakers. I wonder if it could be an impedance mismatch causing this noise.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is a lot of dialogue on the Miata bulletin boards when you try to integrate a new head unit with the upgraded BOSE amp systems. The low impedance Bose Speakers cause mismatches when you try to use the BOSE amps with a new head unit. I have done it several ways, using the RCA jacks (not enough output) and using a matching device that takes the RCA jacks to the front end of the BOSE amps.
What I ended up using is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BFL52Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 with plenty of grounding and some ferrite cores on the signal wires.

I just installed this unit as last night in my Corolla, standard audio which is 4-ohm speakers iirc, and still get the interference I might open the box and see if I can relocate the wifi antenna, or just replace it outright as well.

Have anybody found a solution?
I just bougt this unit and have lots of static (wifi cpu ...) noise.
Tested the unit in my home on my home stereo using a stable power supply, and just the same problem.
noise on both rca (low output) and from the unit amp...

I too have the same static noise issue. I suspect it is coming from the RCA. Have you found the origin or a solution to this interference noise?

igloo77055 said:
I just installed this unit as last night in my Corolla, standard audio which is 4-ohm speakers iirc, and still get the interference I might open the box and see if I can relocate the wifi antenna, or just replace it outright as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
tordeg said:
Have anybody found a solution?
I just bougt this unit and have lots of static (wifi cpu ...) noise.
Tested the unit in my home on my home stereo using a stable power supply, and just the same problem.
noise on both rca (low output) and from the unit amp...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you found a solution to the interference noise issue?

I bought a strong wifi cable RP-SMA but I haven't installed it yet. The sound comes from the wifi module. When the wifi is off, silence is switched off.

Saitek22 said:
I bought a strong wifi cable RP-SMA but I haven't installed it yet. The sound comes from the wifi module. When the wifi is off, silence is switched off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you think it's possible to resolve the noise interference issue with MTCU update?

I think it's a hardware problem and it's just a normal interference by wifi radio waves.

Saitek22 said:
I think it's a hardware problem and it's just a normal interference by wifi radio waves.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In my case it looks like the noise is coming from processor as well as wifi module. What is your MCU? Is it WWW?

Hi, have you managed to resolve the interference noise issue?

good day know how to update firmware update for ga2171s eonon.
Thank you

Hello, Do you have the interference noise issue with your Eonon Ga2171S?

Related

Motorola T605 BT Car kit

Just got the the Motorola T 605 Automotive Music and Hands-free System installed into my car. Works great with the Kaiser (I have the TILT) for both Hands-free and Wireless Stereo BT profiles. When connected with a vehicle specific adapter harness, the stereo is automatically muted for incoming calls, and conversation is played from front speakers only. A long press on the talk button even launches Cyberon Voice Speed Dial (which is provided with the TILT). When using Wireless Stereo and WMP, all skip/ forward/ back/ pause/ play functions work flawlessly. Provided BT is enabled on the kaiser before the ignition is turned on, the connection for both profiles is automatic. Very nice adition for those of us who own a car that did not come with factory BT.
Wiring Harness
Hi, Where did you find the vehicle specific wiring harness?
JimboJones35 said:
Hi, Where did you find the vehicle specific wiring harness?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try
http://www.installer-parts.com
Hi,
I happen to have the same car kit and my Kaiser doesn't find it!
My T605 is discovered and works flawlessly with my SonyEricsson K800i phone (both for call and streaming music) as well as my old HP IPAQ 5555 (obviously, only for music with this one).
On the other hand, my Kaiser works flawlessly with both Plantronics 590A and Jabra BT8010 in both modes.
So, what could be wrong? I have the latest Shap's ROM (4.31) on my Kaiser, didn't try it with the stock one.
Any help is much appreciated!
Thanks!
mpogr said:
Hi,
I happen to have the same car kit and my Kaiser doesn't find it!
My T605 is discovered and works flawlessly with my SonyEricsson K800i phone (both for call and streaming music) as well as my old HP IPAQ 5555 (obviously, only for music with this one).
On the other hand, my Kaiser works flawlessly with both Plantronics 590A and Jabra BT8010 in both modes.
So, what could be wrong? I have the latest Shap's ROM (4.31) on my Kaiser, didn't try it with the stock one.
Any help is much appreciated!
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's a tough one. Mine connected first time to both BT profiles with the 605. I do recall a limitation on the 605 regarding how many partnerships the T605 supports. Although it's a pain, I'd suggest clearing all partnerships from the T605, and the Kaiser, and then try and connect again. I'm using a TILT, but had no issues with either ROM in my sig.
Which is better? The T605 or the T505?
Shafty said:
Which is better? The T605 or the T505?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think 605 requires professional install, but 505 doesn't
So I'm going to help my buddy install the T605 into his saturn Ion (04). The demo on the motorola website says you can buy a harness to make the phone call go through the oem speakers and not have to use the 5W powered speaker. Is this harness necessary or will this happen for you when you follow the install instruction?
Also, If this is not controlled by the aux port on the HU how will the music (A2DP) play through the system? There must be relays in the HF unit to do this? Or will I need to go through the aux port on the HU?
I have the IHF1000 in my car and that was a very easy install......Other than tapping into the OEM wires this should be pretty cut and dry? As long as you know what OEM wires to use?
Motorola has been completely useless as far as tech support goes.
For Motorola T605 and IHF1000 vehicle-specific adapter harnesses, try the selection from www.peripheralelectronics.com (their CelFi harnesses), or the drive&talk harnesses at www.nicestuffonline.com . A solution should be there somwhere between them for the ION.
As for the integration, connect the RCA L/R output from the T605 to an available MP3 or aux. input, or find an aux. input adapter for your vehicle (examples are from Blitzsafe, Periperhal Electronic's Aux2Car and others). If there is no specific adapter available for your vehicle, you could always use Scosche's FM-MOD01 FM modulator to bring the audio in DIRECTLY through the FM antenna port (vehicle-specific antenna adapters may be required). The in-line modulator works without static, unlike that of many FM broadcast/transmitter solutions.
DHackRSX said:
So I'm going to help my buddy install the T605 into his saturn Ion (04). The demo on the motorola website says you can buy a harness to make the phone call go through the oem speakers and not have to use the 5W powered speaker. Is this harness necessary or will this happen for you when you follow the install instruction?
Also, If this is not controlled by the aux port on the HU how will the music (A2DP) play through the system? There must be relays in the HF unit to do this? Or will I need to go through the aux port on the HU?
I have the IHF1000 in my car and that was a very easy install......Other than tapping into the OEM wires this should be pretty cut and dry? As long as you know what OEM wires to use?
Motorola has been completely useless as far as tech support goes.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As mentioned above, the easiest thing to do is start by sourcing the vehicle specific adapter from one of those companies in the previous post and go from there. I did that, and installed the t605 in my car in NO time. You just plug the adapter into the back of your stereo, plug the harness from the t605 to that, and then run the lines out for the mic and for the controls, then run RCA from the t605 to your AUX connection (either 3rd party aux interface or factory opening if you have it). It's freaking great. You're done in NO time. The handsfree is GREAT, and even better is that you can stream whatever you want from your phone... I'll take shoutcast and internet radio over paying for XM/Sirius any day of the week.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
If you were able to run another moto unit you'll have no trouble with this... it just adds one connection for the audio.
I'm sure the answer is probably yes, but it helps clear things up for me to speak them out loud.
Here is what I want to have happen. I want to be able to put my Tilt in my car and have my car to play music from the Tilt through the car's speakers. I don't care whether it is through a wired connection or a wireless connection via Bluetooth or an FM transmitter. Will this do this fine?
Like I said, I think the answer is yes, but I would like someone else to confirm it. And I was going to get a separate Bluetooth headset to use in the car and just walking around. I'll still get that, but I think this should be fine when I'm driving in the car and I must take a call.
Final question. How is the sound quality coming through the speakers and how is the reception on the other end? Can they hear you fine?
ehollins said:
I want to be able to put my Tilt in my car and have my car to play music from the Tilt through the car's speakers. I don't care whether it is through a wired connection or a wireless connection via Bluetooth or an FM transmitter. Will this do this fine?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It will work, but I think it's a bit overkill if you're looking to go that simple. If you're not hung up on BT why not just buy a basic AUX interface for your car with a 3.5mm jack on it, then grab the adapter to plug it into the bottom to the tilt? It's not as "cool" or "elegant" but heck, if you jsut want to play audio but don't want to stream it why make things hard?
Final question. How is the sound quality coming through the speakers and how is the reception on the other end? Can they hear you fine?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For audio or phone calls?
It's great for audio.
Phone calls are good. Nobody every says they can't hear me, but sometimes if I'm at WOT or have the windows down I can't hear them because the volume output is a tad low. I have a loud car though, so that's more my fault than motorolas.
ehollins said:
I'm sure the answer is probably yes, but it helps clear things up for me to speak them out loud.
Here is what I want to have happen. I want to be able to put my Tilt in my car and have my car to play music from the Tilt through the car's speakers. I don't care whether it is through a wired connection or a wireless connection via Bluetooth or an FM transmitter. Will this do this fine?
Like I said, I think the answer is yes, but I would like someone else to confirm it. And I was going to get a separate Bluetooth headset to use in the car and just walking around. I'll still get that, but I think this should be fine when I'm driving in the car and I must take a call.
Final question. How is the sound quality coming through the speakers and how is the reception on the other end? Can they hear you fine?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=390945
Wiring Harness
Hi...I have a 2007 Mazda6 with the factory Bose stereo system. I am looking for a 3rd party wiring harness so I can connect the Motorola T605 to the stereo. I have looked at the places mentioned in previous posts to find the harness, but have not been successful...this may be because I am not sure what I am looking for. If someone has any information I would be greatly appreciative...
Thanks!

How to wire stock microphone into head unit?

Hi guys, I recently got a dasaita px5 head unit and would like to make my install a bit cleaner and perhaps the audio during phone calls a bit nicer.
Now, my car is a Hyundai Solaris (Accent, but for the Russian market) and here's the pinout for the connectors
http://www.tehnomagazin.com/images/...o wiring diagram harness pinout connector.gif
Now, the external microphone that comes with the unit uses a two-pole connector like this:
http://media.rs-online.com/t_large/F6287095-01.jpg
So, should i take mic+ to be the 1 channel and mic- to be the ground bit from a mono connector? Or is my stock microphone a stereo (noise cancelling?) mic?
This would be easier to hook up... Going to order this since it can be recharged via USB.
Portable Mini HIFI Amplifier Audio in Headphone out Amplifier Earphone Aux In Port for iPhone Android Music Player New Year Gift
http://s.aliexpress.com/2MvEF3m6
(from AliExpress Android)
Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Would it definitely require an amplifier? How can I check?
mroberte said:
This would be easier to hook up... Going to order this since it can be recharged via USB.
Portable Mini HIFI Amplifier Audio in Headphone out Amplifier Earphone Aux In Port for iPhone Android Music Player New Year Gift
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How would you use this for the OPs original question, as this is a line in to headphone amp, the levels are much different.
OP - do you have details such as wiring diagrams for the factory mic? My toyota has an internal mic which requires 5v to power its preamp.
---------- Post added at 10:18 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:11 AM ----------
vassandrei said:
So, should i take mic+ to be the 1 channel and mic- to be the ground bit from a mono connector? Or is my stock microphone a stereo (noise cancelling?) mic?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, connect the shield/braid to mic (-) and centre to mic (+).
marchnz said:
How would you use this for the OPs original question, as this is a line in to headphone amp, the levels are much different.
OP - do you have details such as wiring diagrams for the factory mic? My toyota has an internal mic which requires 5v to power its preamp.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Weird, my original post did not show... let me start over.
So I wanted to do the same in my car (2015 Audi A3), use the stock microphone but still have it available for the built in OEM phone and voice activation features.. Basically you will have to solder or tap into the lead wires from the OEM microphone, and then use a new 3.5mm or 2.5mm mono/stereo male jack lead that goes into your android unit. So the original wires goes to the OEM system, and the new wires goes into the Android - like a Y split.
Because the microphone is not powered or an Electrec mic, you will have horrible pick up when your car is actually moving - defeating any of the google voice features while driving. You will need an amplifier to increase the sound going into the Android Unit. Your stock unit most likely already has this built in. HTH
I don't have wiring details for the microphone unfortunately. I'll just try wiring it up with no preamp and see what happens. Honestly the built-in mic is good enough for me right now but it just seemed a waste to not use one already in the headliner
I did try this on my Saab 93. I wired the stock microphone to my Newsmy Carpad3. Mic did not function. Disassembled the stock microphone and found it was active. Took out the active part and connected just the stock microphone element. Now it worked but I had to yell to get sound recorder to just pick up my voice. So I disassembled the radio mic and put the mic element into the stock housing; this allowed me to still use the stock location for a stealth install. Used a Saab connector to connect it as I had bought that to try the stock microphone connected to the radio.
Okay, so I finally got around to doing it with my dasaita px5 unit. It works flawlessly, no amplifier, nothing. People seem to hear me clearly on the other side.
marchnz said:
How would you use this for the OPs original question, as this is a line in to headphone amp, the levels are much different.
OP - do you have details such as wiring diagrams for the factory mic? My toyota has an internal mic which requires 5v to power its preamp.
---------- Post added at 10:18 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:11 AM ----------
Yes, connect the shield/braid to mic (-) and centre to mic (+).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Marchnz, do you have any guidance for connecting the Toyota OEM microphone to a MTCE head unit? Would it likely make a difference in sound quality during calls? Thank you.
jeffreydbrown said:
Marchnz, do you have any guidance for connecting the Toyota OEM microphone to a MTCE head unit? Would it likely make a difference in sound quality during calls? Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am interjecting here having personal experience with the Toyota OEM mic on an MTCE. It works however I have variable attenuation between the mic and the HU. Sound quality is not so good on a noisy highway. I often switch to a headset during phone calls. Nonetheless it is quite useful.
xdamember2 said:
I am interjecting here having personal experience with the Toyota OEM mic on an MTCE. It works however I have variable attenuation between the mic and the HU. Sound quality is not so good on a noisy highway. I often switch to a headset during phone calls. Nonetheless it is quite useful.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can I just tap into mic+ and mic- and connect to a 3.5mm male connector, then to the external 3.5 mm female port? Do I need to do anything with the pre-amp wire?
Are your problems even with the factory mic the result of the BT chip?
I did not do careful tests of the call quality with the OE Nav unit, so my basis for quality comparison with the head unit is highly subjective, but my current call quality with the external mic is borderline unusable. I have a BT headset while I work out the problems. This is my first head unit install.
jeffreydbrown said:
Can I just tap into mic+ and mic- and connect to a 3.5mm male connector, then to the external 3.5 mm female port? Do I need to do anything with the pre-amp wire?
Are your problems even with the factory mic the result of the BT chip?
I did not do careful tests of the call quality with the OE Nav unit, so my basis for quality comparison with the head unit is highly subjective, but my current call quality with the external mic is borderline unusable. I have a BT headset while I work out the problems. This is my first head unit install.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I find the oem mic pretty much usable. Speech recognition seems a little more forgiving than the BT chip. On the noisiest roads people have a hard time hearing me. Most of the time I can communicate OK with it.
It is necessary to supply voltage on the red wire to the mic. +5 or +3 volts. And in my opinion the signal needs to be attenuated to reduce overload distortion. This may vary depending on the specific HU. You can probably find a 10db attenuation plug, that should be about right. I use the "mic tester" app to display a waveform and see how well it's working.
I know the OE Nav unit had settings to tweak the mic. I don't know for sure if that occurred in the hu or the mic.
xdamember2 said:
I find the oem mic pretty much usable. Speech recognition seems a little more forgiving than the BT chip. On the noisiest roads people have a hard time hearing me. Most of the time I can communicate OK with it.
It is necessary to supply voltage on the red wire to the mic. +5 or +3 volts. And in my opinion the signal needs to be attenuated to reduce overload distortion. This may vary depending on the specific HU. You can probably find a 10db attenuation plug, that should be about right. I use the "mic tester" app to display a waveform and see how well it's working.
I know the OE Nav unit had settings to tweak the mic. I don't know for sure if that occurred in the hu or the mic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can I not let the vehicle continue to supply power to the mic and simply tap the signal wires to the head unit's external or internal mic connectors?
jeffreydbrown said:
Can I not let the vehicle continue to supply power to the mic and simply tap the signal wires to the head unit's external or internal mic connectors?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Without the oem nav unit, power is not supplied to the mic. Amazon has a nice 12v/5v converter:
Micro Electric DC Buck Volt Converter DC-DC 6.3-22V 12V to 5V 3A/15W Car Auto Vehicle Power Supply Module Step-down Voltage Transformer Volt Regulator Inverter Board with Waterproof Aluminum Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C63TLCC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zE5ICb4PEZB5D
vassandrei said:
Okay, so I finally got around to doing it with my dasaita px5 unit. It works flawlessly, no amplifier, nothing. People seem to hear me clearly on the other side.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
How did you manage to do this? I'd like to do the same with my 2011 Audi A3 and PX30 Android Head Unit.
Thanks.
z.alimohamed said:
Hi,
How did you manage to do this? I'd like to do the same with my 2011 Audi A3 and PX30 Android Head Unit.
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you found any more information about getting the microphone on px5's to work better?
me too I'm interested for my ford focus st. I've made a cable with the 2 pins (+ & -) and the 3,5 jack but it's a stereo one. then I've connected like this:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
it doesn't work
marcus82 said:
me too I'm interested for my ford focus st. I've made a cable with the 2 pins (+ & -) and the 3,5 jack but it's a stereo one. then I've connected like this:
it doesn't work
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How Can I Upgrade My Stock Scion 4 Wire Mic + Preamp circuit?
Hello, I have a stock 4 wire mic and preamp board that my 2013 scion uses. The sound is pretty crappy and I want to upgrade to an aftermarket one but I am having trouble.
I'm trying to figure out which wires are what on the mic, there are 4 going into the mini circuit board and 2 from the circuit board to the actual mic.
I have continuity from one pin of circuit board to one pin of the mic, maybe this is the ground?
Do you think I could use a normal mic if I found the correct 2 wires and just left the preamp out? Or maybe I need some type of preamp device like this:
https://www.amazon.com/TRITON-AUDIO-FetHead-Microphone-Preamp/dp/B06XDPTDN5/
thanks so much for any help!
https://imgur.com/a/h6eYMHk
i have a 2012 Toyota Camry and wish to keep my oem mic too but cant make sense of how to do it.
I don't really want to cut any wires
anyone able to explain in detail how to go about it?
See here:
Microphone noise problem with Dasaita Android Radio
Hello! I've got a 2018 Toyota Auris (yes, i know, in the USA is named Corolla). I changed the radio for a Dasaita PX6 radio with DSP and Android 10. [**Link to the radio**](https://es.aliexpress.com/item/33011976959.html) It came with an...
forum.xda-developers.com

Will adding the external amplifier help my situation

Helpful people,
I have bought Asottu CDZ8060 2G android 8.1 head unit of aliexpress for VW Scirocco 2010.
Unit is nice, but I get a constant buzzing noise when I connect a radio antenna (and only when it is connected).
It is always the same intensity and volume from the bootup of the headunit untill I mute the sound or shut down the car.
The noise is sublte, usually it is not a problem, but when the car engine is off it is (a big one).
I have tried:
Grounding a chassis of a radio with GND of radio
Changing the antenna wire from original cable to my radio.
Fiddling with software settings
Putting a ferrite choke over the wire
Nothing helped.
Among all of this the audio quality is worse than with the original radio.
So my wish is to improve the audio (I want it to be atleast as good as the original).
Will external amplifier help with this? Do you have any other ideas how to fix this?
There is a option of returnig this unit and buying a diefferent one, but I am scared that I will get the noise with a different after market radio also.

Dimmable buttons and better sound quality

Hello. Im owner of PX5 Android 9 Head Unit for BMW E46. I know hot to change buttons color but i don't know how to make it dimmable. They always have 100% brightness and it is annoying. Should i change something in radio settings or with the cable connection? 17pins BMW E46 sedan 2003 by.
Other question is - are there available mods or DSP settings for best sound quality? In my opinion this HU sound very raw even with enabled Loud. Previously BMW Business CD53 HU had very soft and warm sound quality. I would like to achieve this on this HU too.
Bump
The lighting wire (orange) from the radio needs to be connected to the wire in the car's harness that does the dashboard lighting. If your radio gets that signal through a CANbus decoder you will have to cut the wire and connect it directly to the car harness.
nic2k said:
The lighting wire (orange) from the radio needs to be connected to the wire in the car's harness that does the dashboard lighting. If your radio gets that signal through a CANbus decoder you will have to cut the wire and connect it directly to the car harness.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanks i will try that.
And any advices for better sound quality? My previously CD 53 had better sound quality (more soft and warm) than this TDA 7851 based device.
The way you hear sound is personal. Your factory HU would have been tuned and equalized to sound that way so you'll have to play with the equalizer to replicate it. The DSP in those units is missing preset effects like you would find on a home theater receiver. You should probably start by making sure the speaker settings match what's in the car like distance and # of ways. If you find the sound too harsh look at lowering the low pass filter frequency and try a different type of filter. You can adjust the PHAT slider to give the sound more volume. Too bad there isn't an easy way to control reverb directly. Then adjust the equalizer to your taste.
nic2k said:
You should probably start by making sure the speaker settings match what's in the car like distance and # of ways.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Different radio (original BMW) sound warm and soft. This, even with playing on different EQ settings and DSP cant achieve this warm quality. Im using car amp and hertz DCX 165.3 on rear, Audio system MX165 PLUS on front. Everything is connected to amp via Hi_Lo converter. Should i connect this HU with RCA cable? Does this affect on sound quality?
Also are available somewhere custom setting presets for EQ and DSP?
Oh no wonder you're getting a different sound than the factory radio you're using a line level converter. Some people swear they don't change the sound and some other have better hearing and swear they hear a difference. Either way there's no denying basic electronic principles if you drive a signal through coils it will affect the signal more than just reducing the amplitude. It will definitely add/change harmonics and it might not respond evenly at all frequencies. Something like that is probably acceptable to drive a subwoofer. It would take some finely tuned filtering of the output to get the same signal that went in.
If you're using an external amp you should connect it to the RCA's. The problem with these Chinese HU is the line out level is too low they're still living in the 80's when a 1 V line level was standard. Some amps have an adjustable line in maybe find one that works with 1 V.
It might not matter as much but you replaced the factory speakers, all speakers sound different. Usually aftermarket speakers have better quality and sound than factory.
nic2k said:
It might not matter as much but you replaced the factory speakers, all speakers sound different. Usually aftermarket speakers have better quality and sound than factory.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes i know, but my external amp and new speakers were installed also on previously radio.
i will try connecting this HU with RCA cable

Xtrons D714A - Noise on FM

Hello, I have a noise on my Xtrons D714A when I turn on the FM radio.
If I open an app at the same time, the noise is gone for a short time. When the app has finished loading, the noise is there again. Even with strong local channels.
I think it's a software problem as reception is good when you open an app at the same time. I can't find a system update for my radio either.
Does anyone have a solution for me?
What is your car make and model? Does it have antenna amplifier? How looks an antenna connector which you used to connect into head unit?
Its a Ford Fiesta MK4 from 1997.
I once tested it with an antenna amplifier, but no improvement. The signal is perfect when an app is opened. So the hardware is OK. I think it's a software problem.
What kind of noise is this?? Is it static noise? And only on FM?
I believe that you have OEM amplified antenna, because of presence ANT remote wire
[pic source https://aamidis.blogspot.com/2018/09/ford-fiesta-mk4-radio-wiring-diagram.html]
And if you have good fm signal strength then it means that antenna amplifier is connected and works fine.
BUT
Amplifier also strengthens an static noise. OEM radio has filters to separate that.
Android units don't have such filters because they are designed to work with passive and active(amplified) antennas.
So to remove this noise you have to use something like on pic below, but do not connect blue wire, because you have your antenna amp powered already.
https://www.amazon.com/Antenna-Adapter-After-Market-Stereo-Booster/dp/B07M827R61
I had same issue in my Bmw, which got an active antenna [with external power source. Not by 'hot-wire']
After powering an antenna amplifier I received a lot more FM stations but static noise also increased (due to fact that there is voltage on antenna).
So i connected antenna plug to head unit with adapter like linked above (blue wire left disconnected). It has built-in filters to separate fm signal from static. And since then I receive clear FM sound.
The signal is perfect when an app is opened.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't understand. How can it be perfect when you receive noise? Can you describe it more?
Thanks for the answer and the tips. I will get myself such a filter.
The following situation:
The FM signal has static noise. Now I start Google Maps and the noise disappears until Google Maps is completely open. This takes about 15 seconds, after which the noise comes back.

Categories

Resources