Helpful people,
I have bought Asottu CDZ8060 2G android 8.1 head unit of aliexpress for VW Scirocco 2010.
Unit is nice, but I get a constant buzzing noise when I connect a radio antenna (and only when it is connected).
It is always the same intensity and volume from the bootup of the headunit untill I mute the sound or shut down the car.
The noise is sublte, usually it is not a problem, but when the car engine is off it is (a big one).
I have tried:
Grounding a chassis of a radio with GND of radio
Changing the antenna wire from original cable to my radio.
Fiddling with software settings
Putting a ferrite choke over the wire
Nothing helped.
Among all of this the audio quality is worse than with the original radio.
So my wish is to improve the audio (I want it to be atleast as good as the original).
Will external amplifier help with this? Do you have any other ideas how to fix this?
There is a option of returnig this unit and buying a diefferent one, but I am scared that I will get the noise with a different after market radio also.
Related
Hello. Im owner of PX5 Android 9 Head Unit for BMW E46. I know hot to change buttons color but i don't know how to make it dimmable. They always have 100% brightness and it is annoying. Should i change something in radio settings or with the cable connection? 17pins BMW E46 sedan 2003 by.
Other question is - are there available mods or DSP settings for best sound quality? In my opinion this HU sound very raw even with enabled Loud. Previously BMW Business CD53 HU had very soft and warm sound quality. I would like to achieve this on this HU too.
Bump
The lighting wire (orange) from the radio needs to be connected to the wire in the car's harness that does the dashboard lighting. If your radio gets that signal through a CANbus decoder you will have to cut the wire and connect it directly to the car harness.
nic2k said:
The lighting wire (orange) from the radio needs to be connected to the wire in the car's harness that does the dashboard lighting. If your radio gets that signal through a CANbus decoder you will have to cut the wire and connect it directly to the car harness.
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thanks i will try that.
And any advices for better sound quality? My previously CD 53 had better sound quality (more soft and warm) than this TDA 7851 based device.
The way you hear sound is personal. Your factory HU would have been tuned and equalized to sound that way so you'll have to play with the equalizer to replicate it. The DSP in those units is missing preset effects like you would find on a home theater receiver. You should probably start by making sure the speaker settings match what's in the car like distance and # of ways. If you find the sound too harsh look at lowering the low pass filter frequency and try a different type of filter. You can adjust the PHAT slider to give the sound more volume. Too bad there isn't an easy way to control reverb directly. Then adjust the equalizer to your taste.
nic2k said:
You should probably start by making sure the speaker settings match what's in the car like distance and # of ways.
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Different radio (original BMW) sound warm and soft. This, even with playing on different EQ settings and DSP cant achieve this warm quality. Im using car amp and hertz DCX 165.3 on rear, Audio system MX165 PLUS on front. Everything is connected to amp via Hi_Lo converter. Should i connect this HU with RCA cable? Does this affect on sound quality?
Also are available somewhere custom setting presets for EQ and DSP?
Oh no wonder you're getting a different sound than the factory radio you're using a line level converter. Some people swear they don't change the sound and some other have better hearing and swear they hear a difference. Either way there's no denying basic electronic principles if you drive a signal through coils it will affect the signal more than just reducing the amplitude. It will definitely add/change harmonics and it might not respond evenly at all frequencies. Something like that is probably acceptable to drive a subwoofer. It would take some finely tuned filtering of the output to get the same signal that went in.
If you're using an external amp you should connect it to the RCA's. The problem with these Chinese HU is the line out level is too low they're still living in the 80's when a 1 V line level was standard. Some amps have an adjustable line in maybe find one that works with 1 V.
It might not matter as much but you replaced the factory speakers, all speakers sound different. Usually aftermarket speakers have better quality and sound than factory.
nic2k said:
It might not matter as much but you replaced the factory speakers, all speakers sound different. Usually aftermarket speakers have better quality and sound than factory.
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yes i know, but my external amp and new speakers were installed also on previously radio.
i will try connecting this HU with RCA cable
Hi guys, I am looking to put an android head unit into my BMW X1 (e84) and would like some thoughts/advice on the audio side of things.
TLDR; The unit requires the use of the aux port, which is low powered and too quiet - what are my alternatives?
Best I can tell all the android units for the e84 are essentially an extra side unit, as the original OEM HU stays in the car, take the following for example: AVIN BAVE84-1025 (I can't post the link as I don't have enough posts).
My only problem is the audio from the android needs to be looped through the cars aux port, which just seems wrong, as the aux port is low powered I'll never be able to get loud good quality audio through to the car speakers?
As it is at the moment, when I plug my android phone into my aux port, I turn the cars volume to maximum (including the extra aux volume) and it's still incredibly quiet. Is this because it's low powered aux, or is it my phone causing the quietness? (My phone is also turned up to max volume)
I'm worried that if I purchase one of these android units and utilise the aux port for the audio, I'll have the same volume/quality problem that I have when using my phone.
I used to have a 1 series (e87), where the android unit just hooked straight into the cars audio system, no need for utilising aux.
I have read that some people have left the aux unplugged in an F48 and the audio still worked (I'll see if I can find the thread for that) but obviously that's a newer model, so I'm not sure what's different.
I've also read a little about using a USB DAC, but I don't fully understand the process. Am I right in thinking the android device would need to be told to output audio to the USB, and the USB would then be hooked into the cars RCA audio?
At that point it's just another tablet, but with worse specs
See if connecting via bluetooth instead won't help. And try another device, maybe your phone is just being weird.
Aadieu said:
At that point it's just another tablet, but with worse specs
See if connecting via bluetooth instead won't help. And try another device, maybe your phone is just being weird.
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I'm still running the OEM head unit at the moment (professional head unit) but it doesn't have music over Bluetooth.
I'll try another device to see if it'll go louder, but as far as I'm aware the aux port is generally quiet anyway because its low powered.
I have a small amp that I thought could probably help but I wouldnt want to put too much power through the aux port in case it blows.
I thought if I could get the android unit to use a USB DAC, I could then hook into the cars standard audio rather than a low powered aux. I'm just not sure whether it's possible to have these android units output to a USB instead. Does anyone have any experience with this?
Got the topic's HU and trying to solve some problems.
Starting point: original rns-e and bose. Hopefully don't have to replace anything else than HU.
Already got rear speakers working and antenna amp so fm receiver works also fine. Just a few problems left.
1. The sub isn't working. The bose amp doesn't have sub input although there's original sub. So do I have to just connect the HU sub output to left and right output? Or what's the trick to get sub working?
2. The loud pop when shutting off or muting the HU. Possible grounding issue?
3. Some noise which get louder with the revs. Also possible grounding issue?
Any tips to these problems are welcome.
Hello, I have a noise on my Xtrons D714A when I turn on the FM radio.
If I open an app at the same time, the noise is gone for a short time. When the app has finished loading, the noise is there again. Even with strong local channels.
I think it's a software problem as reception is good when you open an app at the same time. I can't find a system update for my radio either.
Does anyone have a solution for me?
What is your car make and model? Does it have antenna amplifier? How looks an antenna connector which you used to connect into head unit?
Its a Ford Fiesta MK4 from 1997.
I once tested it with an antenna amplifier, but no improvement. The signal is perfect when an app is opened. So the hardware is OK. I think it's a software problem.
What kind of noise is this?? Is it static noise? And only on FM?
I believe that you have OEM amplified antenna, because of presence ANT remote wire
[pic source https://aamidis.blogspot.com/2018/09/ford-fiesta-mk4-radio-wiring-diagram.html]
And if you have good fm signal strength then it means that antenna amplifier is connected and works fine.
BUT
Amplifier also strengthens an static noise. OEM radio has filters to separate that.
Android units don't have such filters because they are designed to work with passive and active(amplified) antennas.
So to remove this noise you have to use something like on pic below, but do not connect blue wire, because you have your antenna amp powered already.
https://www.amazon.com/Antenna-Adapter-After-Market-Stereo-Booster/dp/B07M827R61
I had same issue in my Bmw, which got an active antenna [with external power source. Not by 'hot-wire']
After powering an antenna amplifier I received a lot more FM stations but static noise also increased (due to fact that there is voltage on antenna).
So i connected antenna plug to head unit with adapter like linked above (blue wire left disconnected). It has built-in filters to separate fm signal from static. And since then I receive clear FM sound.
The signal is perfect when an app is opened.
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I don't understand. How can it be perfect when you receive noise? Can you describe it more?
Thanks for the answer and the tips. I will get myself such a filter.
The following situation:
The FM signal has static noise. Now I start Google Maps and the noise disappears until Google Maps is completely open. This takes about 15 seconds, after which the noise comes back.
Hey guys. I have a Joying headunit and recently i was on a call via bluetooth and the other person said they can here buzz sound so I decided to do some test and started voice recording on the headunit and found out that when car parking lights or headlights are on, it records that buzz sound. Lights off and the sound is gone. Anyone would know, why?
Wen you say you were on a call with BT, can you clarify what you mean. You had a bluetooth headset on in your car connected to your HU? Your HU was getting getting phone call how? Also BT? to you phone? Or you mean your HU was BT to your phone but you were using the HU mic? If your sing BT headset that seems odd and more likely an issue with your headset. IF however you mean you were using BT to connect phone to HU(aka handsfree) and you were using the HU mic(or external mic) welcome to the chinese head unit party. The mics and the internal components are poorly shielded from engine and other electronic noise. Only thing you can really do is buy a better external mic and see if it helps.
gottahavit said:
Wen you say you were on a call with BT, can you clarify what you mean. You had a bluetooth headset on in your car connected to your HU? Your HU was getting getting phone call how? Also BT? to you phone? Or you mean your HU was BT to your phone but you were using the HU mic? If your sing BT headset that seems odd and more likely an issue with your headset. IF however you mean you were using BT to connect phone to HU(aka handsfree) and you were using the HU mic(or external mic) welcome to the chinese head unit party. The mics and the internal components are poorly shielded from engine and other electronic noise. Only thing you can really do is buy a better external mic and see if it helps.
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That's typically from too much power draw in your cars electrical system. Which can also mean you have some poor grounding. It doesn't hurt to start adding ground straps all around the car. Ground battery to chassis, ground block with ground of battery, ground body with block etc. Inside the car behind the head unit, you can ground your ground wire with a T connection to somewhere metal in the dash. That will help with the buzzing sound while your lights are on and functioning.
well if he's talking about sound on a bt headset,that's something very different, but I assume he meant standard hands free.