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Hello,
I got a very annoying problem with my pumpkin head unit. Theres a noise, like when you place a smartphone close to speaker, which I hear all the time coming out of my car speakers.
Sometimes it's quiet and sometimes I hear that noise.
Is there any way to fix that?
My HeadUnit is (Description from Pumpkin Website):
Pumpkin 7 Inch Quad Core Android 4.4 Car Stereo DVD Player for Opel Vauxhall 2 Din support DAB+ AV Output MirrorLink 3G WiFi OBD2 DVR Steering Wheel Control
I run Malaysk Rom, but had this issues even with the standard ROM.
Would be happy if anybody could help me.
Regards
Ben
bump
No ideas?
Any ideas
I would be happy if someone could help me with my Problem
It's likely noise from the screen. Try turning the screen off and see if it goes away. It won't be easy to fix. Make sure all your grounds are as good as possible and make sure they are as direct to the battery as you can get. Noise like this is from a bad circuit design. It's the difference between an expensive well-engineered board and some POS from China. Yeah, I got one too, the Lollipop unit (self-rooted w/Viper).
If you only get the noise when the car is running it could be noise from your alternator or plug wires. That's harder to fix. You could use one of the crazy capacitors they make for car audio, but if you aren't running a 1000W, they can be overkill. I would try 1000uF cap across the 12V battery supply to ground, as close to the head unit as you can get it. Make sure the cap is rated at least 15V or so (it will see more than 12 from a car!). It will be electrolytic, so make sure you obey polarity. I'll be doing this myself later today.
May be worth a try running a wire from the negative of the battery post to the radio ground...I would just do it quick and easy in the driveway before trying to route it through the car.
Thank you for your support on that...
Unfortunately that sounds not that easy. I thought this might be a common problem with those head units :-/
I have a sound coming thru the speakers as well kinda sounds like a hard drive reading data when its booting up but goes away once its booted & running.
Might try running a better ground see if that helps.
Hello, I recently installed the above Android unit into my 2014 Mitsubishi EVO with Rockford system. It came with the can bus decoder MT-SS-03 for 2014 Outlander. I set everything up in the factory settings menu but I'm having a major audio problem that sadly is ruining an otherwise awesome experience.
If I listen to any music at high volume all system audio cuts out completely for 5-10 seconds at a time. I've found this problem is directly related to the volume. The louder it is, the quicker the audio will cut out. I've double and triple checked all wiring and pins, updated to the latest MCU 2.59, Android system (8-3-2017), etc.
I'm out of ideas on what to try next but hoping someone here can shine some light on the situation. Thanks in advance and looking forward to putting an end to this issue!
do you have proper canbus?
Yes I do, according to them. I did get a red one though which was labeled for 2014 Outlander which I understand to be the newer can box for 2014-2015 EVO but the pictures I've seen show a black box and mine was red but labeled as the newer one. I thought the older 2008-2013 units were red. Not sure if that makes a difference or not but I do have sound from all speakers so it works it just cuts out at high volume. However, the amplifier settings on the Android unit do respond a bit strange. The sub slider seems to change all speaker output and not the sub directly and has a pretty minimal effect. The fader seems right at least as far as the channels go.
In the meantime I did contact the seller on Amazon about the issue. They told me the issue is caused by the high power protection of the factory amplifier. To fix the issue they want me to re-install the factory radio, turn the volume sliders down to the "middle part" and then install the Android unit again. This seems a bit strange to me but it could be the factory radio interfaces with the amp in a different way and is able to control the gain of the sub and the Android unit cannot. With the newer Android unit I noticed the max volume is much louder so maybe I'm hitting some sort of over current protection causing the amp to momentarily shut down. Has anyone ever heard of this?
What I'm not sure about is when this procedure would be needed. Is it because I had the amp slider on factory unit is set too high before I removed it or is it because I disconnected the battery and the amp defaults to a higher setting that only the factory unit can adjust? It would be a real shame if every time power is cut from the amp I need to repeat the process. I fear that may be the case because I'm not sure the amp has an internal EPROM or non-volatile memory that's saving the settings and I did in fact disconnect the battery.
Either way I'll be happy to finally get to the bottom of the issue and I'm sure I'll find out whether or not I'll need to swap the radios again. Until then I'll keep the factory unit closeby. Luckily it's very easy to swap out so fingers crossed this fixes the problem. It's going to be a few days till I pull the radio out since I'm also waiting for a replacement USB harness since one of mine is inop due to a damaged wire.
Please let me know if anyone has any input about this. Thanks again.
Ditto - did you try swapping back and lowering the volume, if so, did it resolve the issue?
I have only had mine for 3 days, Dasiata HA2106-S720 with Dasaita CB003 Canbus harness in a 2013 Mitsubishi ASX with Rockford Fosgate. I would agree that the volume seems higher, so there could be some truth in the Sellers theory.
By the way my experience with Subwoofer control also matches yours - adjusting the lowest frequencies on the Graphic Equalizer seems to affect the main speakers more than the subwoofer, and I am not getting the same 'punchy' bass as the OEM Head Unit.
TSimone said:
Hello, I recently installed the above Android unit into my 2014 Mitsubishi EVO with Rockford system. It came with the can bus decoder MT-SS-03 for 2014 Outlander. I set everything up in the factory settings menu but I'm having a major audio problem that sadly is ruining an otherwise awesome experience.
If I listen to any music at high volume all system audio cuts out completely for 5-10 seconds at a time. I've found this problem is directly related to the volume. The louder it is, the quicker the audio will cut out. I've double and triple checked all wiring and pins, updated to the latest MCU 2.59, Android system (8-3-2017), etc.
I'm out of ideas on what to try next but hoping someone here can shine some light on the situation. Thanks in advance and looking forward to putting an end to this issue!
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Click to collapse
You made also the Car Settings to work well ? Things like keyless operations, windshiel wipers operation, lights time out, auto fold mirror, etc ? Thanks.
I am replacing an old 4.4.2 Joying head unit with their new px5 4GB unit.
The wiring diagrams are identical as are the wiring harnesses so I figured I could just unplug the iso connection from the old and plug the new one in.
I get power but no audio. The external factory amp doesn’t seem to be powering on because with the old I would get a slight sound in the speakers as the head unit came fully on in the main screen.
Any ideas? I was going to start testing the pin outs but I just don’t get what could be different.
TheCleaner said:
I am replacing an old 4.4.2 Joying head unit with their new px5 4GB unit.
The wiring diagrams are identical as are the wiring harnesses so I figured I could just unplug the iso connection from the old and plug the new one in.
I get power but no audio. The external factory amp doesn’t seem to be powering on because with the old I would get a slight sound in the speakers as the head unit came fully on in the main screen.
Any ideas? I was going to start testing the pin outs but I just don’t get what could be different.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
FYI, to close this out for others. The issue was the AMP CONT pin wasn't supplying 12 volts with the radio on. Tested with a multimeter. Frustrating, and trying to deal with Joying support to send something like this back to China is a PITA.
So, to deal with it I ended up cutting AMP CONT right before the fuse, and then splicing it into the red/accessory wire. Same effect. Good to go now.
TheCleaner said:
FYI, to close this out for others. The issue was the AMP CONT pin wasn't supplying 12 volts with the radio on. Tested with a multimeter. Frustrating, and trying to deal with Joying support to send something like this back to China is a PITA.
So, to deal with it I ended up cutting AMP CONT right before the fuse, and then splicing it into the red/accessory wire. Same effect. Good to go now.
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Same problem here. I emailed joying support no help yet. I was looking for a setting in car setup that used to be in the android 6 units to tell it you wanted the external amp trigger enabled - I could not find that setting in the new Joying Android 8 unit.
sounds exactly like my issue I have posted on Joying forums and have a long chat with Candy at Joying. I am at a loss because the radio app when it comes on plays just fine via my external amp and sub. But when I switch to spotify or bluetooth audio. I get nothing. then if I mute and unmute I get audio to my front and rears but nothing to my subwoofer. I was looking for the external amp settings like I had in my 6.1 Android unit. Nothing. Dont want to send it back because it is fast and looks great. If I do send it back, I am just going to go with Seicane.
Hello all this worked for me. Try taking the top cover off the head unit and look on the board for the round sticker on top of the MCU (in my case the sticker said TP6735D v43-6686) and search the sticker info. Download only the MCU update with the same sticker info (in my case I needed TP6735D v43) after update the sound is working again. Not sure why the website MCU update takes out the sound. Good thing is, you can rollback . Hope this helps.
Playing music from USB will wake our factory amp, but radio station music does not. What would cause this? Is there a way to get radio to wake amp? I think(?) Amp Cont wire is unconnected.
Hey guys,
I bought this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33028336644.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.1f993e5f5E88oc
And I finally got everything to work smoothly but the SWC is not working at all. I had a 2011 subaru nav without the harmon kardon audio and I searched for like 2 days now and can't find anything that helps.
I went into factory settings and tried to reset everything I wound up messing up all my buttons on the HU and flipping the screen etc.. I fixed it but it was annoying at 10pm lol.
Any tips to fix this? One of the main reasons I got this was for SWC plug and play.
Pics:
https://ibb.co/YtCwPG9
https://ibb.co/bdhm6Q3
Video:
https://imgur.com/a/KTSR7gB
Thanks!
I dont have any experience with Dasaita Head units; I only have experience with ATOTO. That said, I did install an ATOTO Head Unit into 2011 WRX with factory-installed Nav similar to yours. I have the same buttons on my steering wheel as you do. I was able to get the SWC working with ATOTO.
I looked at your video and it seems the Dasaita Head unit is not sensing when you press the SWC buttons on your steering wheel. So this might be a SW issue in the Dasaita, a HW problem with Dasaita, or a wiring problem in the Dasaita harness.
From the link you had posted, there are two harnesses available (DXY022 and DXY029). I assume you have DXY029? It looks like this harness should be totally plug-n-play compatible since it has both the 20-pin and 24-pin connectors for Subaru. Since it's not working, it is possible the harness is not actually compatible with 2011 Subaru, and you may need modify the harness. Out of curiosity, is all the other functionality of the 24-pin connector working (like reverse camera, Bluetooth microphone, AUX audio and video input from the console box) ?
A few ideas to start:
Does Dasaita have any tech support and have you reached out to them? This is a long shot but worth a try to see if they have any suggestions.
Are the wires on your DXY029 harness individually labeled? If so, are the wires labeled with SWC attached to the correct pins on the 24-pin connector?
The pin outs on the Subaru 24-pin harness are documented in this thread.
jackohound said:
I dont have any experience with Dasaita Head units; I only have experience with ATOTO. That said, I did install an ATOTO Head Unit into 2011 WRX with factory-installed Nav similar to yours. I have the same buttons on my steering wheel as you do. I was able to get the SWC working with ATOTO.
I looked at your video and it seems the Dasaita Head unit is not sensing when you press the SWC buttons on your steering wheel. So this might be a SW issue in the Dasaita, a HW problem with Dasaita, or a wiring problem in the Dasaita harness.
From the link you had posted, there are two harnesses available (DXY022 and DXY029). I assume you have DXY029? It looks like this harness should be totally plug-n-play compatible since it has both the 20-pin and 24-pin connectors for Subaru. Since it's not working, it is possible the harness is not actually compatible with 2011 Subaru, and you may need modify the harness. Out of curiosity, is all the other functionality of the 24-pin connector working (like reverse camera, Bluetooth microphone, AUX audio and video input from the console box) ?
A few ideas to start:
Does Dasaita have any tech support and have you reached out to them? This is a long shot but worth a try to see if they have any suggestions.
Are the wires on your DXY029 harness individually labeled? If so, are the wires labeled with SWC attached to the correct pins on the 24-pin connector?
The pin outs on the Subaru 24-pin harness are documented in this thread.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey thanks for the response, this is coming straight from an unmodified headunit. Had the same one since I bought the car and i'm the only owner.
Yes, I got DXY029.
My car does not have AUX but it had video in and out that i made work as AUX. It also had a cigarette lighter in there that works.
All bluetooth works, apple carplay works, audio works, radio now works after I bought an adapter (although the reception is horrible). SWC is the only thing not working and yeah it looks like there is no connection at all. I unplugged and plugged in the harness a few times to make sure I was making connection, still nothing.
I can try and open it again and look at it but the way it was plug and play wouldn't let me plug it in upside down or any other way, so idk why the swc wouldn't connect if everything is lined up.
I've been on tech support with them for like 4 days now and they keep saying they'll have an engineer look at it but are taking a while. That nasioc url says 404 for me.
Thanks for your help so far!
Yes, I agree since the Dasaita was plug-n-play, there's really no way you could have messed up the connections. Since it's not working, i'd say it's definitely a Dasaita problem -- either their SW or their HW or their harness isn't really plug-n-play for Subaru with Nav. I'd push on Dasaita to either fix the problem or provide you the needed technical support. You'll need a description of the Dasaita SWC circuit and especially a wiring diagram of their DXY029 harness. Lacking this information, you'll be stuck reverse-engineering their harness or living with a broken SWC.
The good news is that the Subaru SWC for your STI is quite simple -- there are only 2 wires involved which are found on pins 3 and 15 of the 24-pin connector. There is no reason why we cant get this working if Dasaita helps. The amount of resistance between those wires will vary between 4.7K ohms (no key pressed) to 22 ohms (mute button pressed). Note again that Subaru SWC does not have resistive path to ground.
BTW, this is the NASIOC url i meant to post, which has the pinout for the 24-pin nav connector for Subaru 2008-2011:
https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=10308972&postcount=11
jackohound said:
Yes, I agree since the Dasaita was plug-n-play, there's really no way you could have messed up the connections. Since it's not working, i'd say it's definitely a Dasaita problem -- either their SW or their HW or their harness isn't really plug-n-play for Subaru with Nav. I'd push on Dasaita to either fix the problem or provide you the needed technical support. You'll need a description of the Dasaita SWC circuit and especially a wiring diagram of their DXY029 harness. Lacking this information, you'll be stuck reverse-engineering their harness or living with a broken SWC.
The good news is that the Subaru SWC for your STI is quite simple -- there are only 2 wires involved which are found on pins 3 and 15 of the 24-pin connector. There is no reason why we cant get this working if Dasaita helps. The amount of resistance between those wires will vary between 4.7K ohms (no key pressed) to 22 ohms (mute button pressed). Note again that Subaru SWC does not have resistive path to ground.
BTW, this is the NASIOC url i meant to post, which has the pinout for the 24-pin nav connector for Subaru 2008-2011:
https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=10308972&postcount=11
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Got it! Gonna keep pushing on them to see if they can provide any of the details. Or maybe send me a new harness.
EDIT: they don't seem to be very helpful...
This is what they're sending back to me:
"hi
they said have installed some of the same model , and it works after set the steering wheel key functions on the head-unit , it should fit"
I took out the radio again and tried to replug everything back still no good.
https://imgur.com/a/Tz3dP8t
That's disappointing that they are not providing good customer support, other than telling you that it should just work. I would definitely continue to push them to make things right with whatever leverage you have. I see the DYX029 harness is only like $9, so you would think they could at least send you a second harness to see if it helps.
When attempting to program the buttons on your steering wheel, have you tried pressing the button for a few seconds? Just a random idea. I assume the user manual has no secret instructions or useful info? I know most Chinese head units have terrible user manuals. I couldn't not find any public user-manual for that head unit.
I looked at the video and pics you sent as well as online pictures of the DYX029 harness. The wires that carry the Subaru SWC signals are the black and green-white wires which i noted with red arrow on the first attached pic. Sorry for my terrible drawing, but those are the wires you care about. From the DXYX029 Harness picture, I think those wires are in fact connected to the Head unit. So as best as i can guess, the harness looks like it might work, assuming you dont just have a faulty harness.
Assuming you dont get any useful help from Dasaita, and you want to get this working, my suggestion would be that you try tapping into one of those wires. You can use T-Tap to easily tap into the wire), then connect the tapped terminal to chassis ground. It doesn't matter which of the two wires you tap. This is exactly what I had to do get ATOTO working, and the reason is because ATOTO engineers misunderstood how the Subaru SWC circuit works. I'm just guessing that Dasaita made the same mistake as ATOTO, so it's posssible this wont fix your problem, but I can assure you this experiment wont cause any damage to the Dasaita.
jackohound said:
That's disappointing that they are not providing good customer support, other than telling you that it should just work. I would definitely continue to push them to make things right with whatever leverage you have. I see the DYX029 harness is only like $9, so you would think they could at least send you a second harness to see if it helps.
When attempting to program the buttons on your steering wheel, have you tried pressing the button for a few seconds? Just a random idea. I assume the user manual has no secret instructions or useful info? I know most Chinese head units have terrible user manuals. I couldn't not find any public user-manual for that head unit.
I looked at the video and pics you sent as well as online pictures of the DYX029 harness. The wires that carry the Subaru SWC signals are the black and green-white wires which i noted with red arrow on the first attached pic. Sorry for my terrible drawing, but those are the wires you care about. From the DXYX029 Harness picture, I think those wires are in fact connected to the Head unit. So as best as i can guess, the harness looks like it might work, assuming you dont just have a faulty harness.
Assuming you dont get any useful help from Dasaita, and you want to get this working, my suggestion would be that you try tapping into one of those wires. You can use T-Tap to easily tap into the wire), then connect the tapped terminal to chassis ground. It doesn't matter which of the two wires you tap. This is exactly what I had to do get ATOTO working, and the reason is because ATOTO engineers misunderstood how the Subaru SWC circuit works. I'm just guessing that Dasaita made the same mistake as ATOTO, so it's posssible this wont fix your problem, but I can assure you this experiment wont cause any damage to the Dasaita.
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Click to collapse
Yeah I tried to hold press for a few mins and even factory reset after pluggin back in securely. I'm gonna see if they can send me another harness, might take months tho, maybe I should just try to tap it, worst comes to worse I buy another harness.
I'm just annoyed because others have this working as plug and play with the same car, which kinda leads me to believe I have a faulty harness. :/
Again, thanks so much for all your help. I'll update you with any info I get from them.
Did you ever figure this out?
Bumping this post if any solution was found. I have a Dasaita unit on an 08 STI, and have the exact same issue. Everything works fine on the head unit except the steering wheel controls.
Check and see if your speakers are wired correctly, if you move the balance and fade you will find out. My whole wiring harness was wired wrong and I had to repin Dasaita's harness. Once you figure that out and have the swc wires right you will have to tap and ground swc2 to the chassis. This is the schematic I used for my 2010 STI.
Thanks!
So I took out my harness, and yes, they did in fact mix up the speakers on the harness. The dasaita Rear Left- goes to the Subaru Front Right -, and it goes on from there, so the speakers are all mixed up. How did you happen to repin it? Is there a way to pull out the wires off of the harness easily, or do I need to tap and re-solder them? Edit: Found it, from within the WRX-pinout link below, there is a plastic clip right by the pin in the harness, just take something thin, lift up the plastic clip, then the wire pulls out. This is on the Dasaita harness side of it that hooks into the car connector.
The Dasaita Key 1 does go to Subaru SWC+, and the Subaru SWC- goes to a bundle of grounds on the harness. So it isn't a complete mess like the speakers at least.
So just tap SWC- that goes to the bundle of ground wires and have it go to chassis ground, or do I need to do something with Key 2 coming off the Dasaita harness?
Thanks. Here are all the resources I referenced to help:
http://ae64.com/WRX-pinout.htm
http://ae64.com/Navi-transplant-install.htm
https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=10308972&postcount=11
And finally the Dasaita manual which has their harness pinout.
I would repin the Dasaita side of the harness incase you want to revert to stock. I just used a screwdriver pick to depress the pins, they pop out fairly easy once you get the hang of it. I can't remember 100% what I had to do with the second swc wire, I will pull my stereo tomorrow if i have time.
Finally figured it out and got it working.
It looks like they also butchered the nav harness pinouts there. It's as if they pinned it looking in a mirror, all the pins were in the wrong place.
I had to re-pin their harness that goes to the nav connector on the subaru, and finally got the damn thing working. I only left the SWC + and -, brake and reverse pins and left out the rest (don't need them). Maybe I will hook up the audio ones later on but I don't need them. Here is the picture of it repinned.
To re-pin it, in the harness on the dasaita harness end that adapts to the subaru nav harness, there is a little rectangle above each pin. Had to stick a small precision flat head in there, wiggle it around, then try to pull out the wire. Also used a pair of needle nose pliers to grab the pin itself and push it through for the ones that gave more trouble.
Thanks for all your help. Really got me to sit down and go through it all wire by wire to realize their mistake with the harness.
Glad you got it figured out. The good news is that once it's wired correctly the head unit is quite good.
Hey glad you guys figured it out. I'm sorry I've been inactive. I kept trying to reach out to them and they kept giving me the run-around.
Hi.
I'm quite new in this adventure (LOL)
I have a Belsee android 10 head unit connected to my sound system in a car with DSP and aftermarket amps and speakers (Mazda 6 2017)
a couple of things annoy me and I would like to ask how can I improve the android to work better? Which app I should install it?
Also, have a problem. Sometimes it freezes and has to restart it.
When I turn on the HU the original software is frozen for a while before he kicks on! Is there a way to fix this glitch?
Also what annoys me very much is when I switch off from the android to the normal Original Mazda mod screen Aux music stop playing. Is there something to avoid this?
Also I there anything to have a volume control panel where I can see how much I'm increasing volume? My system is quite loud and I have set the volume to not go above to prevent clipping or distortion and just wanna be safe. Unfortunately, I have to switch to the original OEM from android, the music stops, and then adjust the volume to see what level I am.
Also as the original OEM use a bose amp and now is obviously replaced with aftermarket amps i can't figure out why is my radio and CD/DVD player quieter then AUX output..Anyone knows, please?
I would really appreciate it if someone can give me the best tips and apps to improve the HU.
Thank you!!!
I also have a belsee android unit (on my mazda 3) with aftermarket subs, tweeters and connected to Bose system that has both the Mazda connect & Android o/s. I have experienced similar problems as you - sometimes the original mazda system takes forever to complete it's boot-up. I did upgrade to Mazda connect firmware 74 and that DID help (system responds faster and voice commands function much better) but it has some issues sometimes with the backup camera for some reason As far as the volume issue, i've found that if i don't use steering wheel control for volume but the knob on the center console i get a visual representation of volume from both sides.
You might check to see if your Bose Co-pilot and Centerpoint are disabled. I've found this levels out the volume a little better.
Do you have problems switching between the two o/s's - ie it's easy to get back to the mazda system by touching console favorites button or using the CarUI icon but going back to Android by swiping right hand side of screen doesn't work many times??????
I've also found that sometimes the Driver (left) side of audio on AUX cuts out as if it's not there and reserved for the voice warnings that occur and doesn't come back until restarted.
Does DSP work for you? I can touch the icon for it, it won't launch for me. Also radio is only available on Mazda side and app not there on android side.
eddotykc said:
I also have a belsee android unit (on my mazda 3) with aftermarket subs, tweeters and connected to Bose system that has both the Mazda connect & Android o/s. I have experienced similar problems as you - sometimes the original mazda system takes forever to complete it's boot-up. I did upgrade to Mazda connect firmware 74 and that DID help (system responds faster and voice commands function much better) but it has some issues sometimes with the backup camera for some reason As far as the volume issue, i've found that if i don't use steering wheel control for volume but the knob on the center console i get a visual representation of volume from both sides.
You might check to see if your Bose Co-pilot and Centerpoint are disabled. I've found this levels out the volume a little better.
Do you have problems switching between the two o/s's - ie it's easy to get back to the mazda system by touching console favorites button or using the CarUI icon but going back to Android by swiping right hand side of screen doesn't work many times??????
I've also found that sometimes the Driver (left) side of audio on AUX cuts out as if it's not there and reserved for the voice warnings that occur and doesn't come back until restarted.
Does DSP work for you? I can touch the icon for it, it won't launch for me. Also radio is only available on Mazda side and app not there on android side.
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Click to collapse
Hi.Thanks for your reply. I haven't hope anyone will answer!
I would like to update the firmware but I don't know how..Also, I was reading you can jump straight from android 10 to android 12 but i don't know how to.
I have still a problem with the reversing camera sometimes..
There is absolutely poor communication with the Chinese..Their English is like hello. connect to the original radio then ok?... So what the hell that means?!!!!
Also, does the volume button piss me off? Is there a way somehow with some app to get the volume from the OEM screen to transfer to the android?
Also, I have an issue checking the android for clipping by oscilloscope..My focal tweeters sound harsh and sparkling when I increase the volume...I don't know if there has to be a balance between the volume of OEM to volume on AU|X?I ws reading somewhere someone checks the original OEM for clipping and it says there is no clipping on full volume..I have to test it..The problem is I don't know whether to check the voltage from HU before the pre amp or after..I bought an adapter from amazon which on one end is a wire to strip in and another side is RCA female output when I'm running 8 wires into the DSP Focal and then to each amp.
About DSP in android ..Do not use this..Its a crap..I tested with a scope. It's clipping like hell and producing a lot of distortion.
But my main issue is the correct voltage output from HU because if you set the voltage in DSP software on a computer wrongly you by sending to the amps digital clipping....
About the Radio in android, i have only FM which i don't know why because i purchase DAB and install it..Also the DAB is very weak..it may be because of interference from somewhere..
I have as well the problem with the left door speaker cutting of few times..
Would love to move from android 10 to 12 - have you found firmware file to do it?
I actually changed out the back-up camera for a third party model that i can choose from six different views and it works great with both the mazda connect and android.
On the distortion issue, have you checked all the wiring behind glove compartment and heat unit to make sure there isn't a wire exposed potentially causing the distortion. I had a problem on the rca going to an under-seat sub sounding like crap until i wrapped the left and right as they came out of the PAC AOEM line-out converter and ensured it ran opposite of power/ground wiring.
I’m not using PAC.you don’t have to because if you measure the output voltage from hu is only between 0.6-0.8v before the factory preamp .after that is 2.4V so I bought on Amazon just adapter which on one end plug wires and other end rca. Then they run in to the dsp. But what really make my piss of is the volume on radio which is very quiet.I try your tactics without result.I don’t know if the Bose amp increase the volume or… other things have you manage to do the big 3 upgrade?at the moment I have 155amp alternator and second battery at the back xs power 3400 .the thing is I can’t connect alternator to battery as it causing charging eloop malfunkcion.it has to be done somehow to pass the sensor but haven’t figure out test.any idea?also charging screen not ready for I start stop -battery .when I disconnect second battery then fine full ready. It’s the upgrade issue alt to battery or alt? If where can I get bigger one ?
Good Morning!
I have a 2017 Mazda 6 with Bose system and amp & just installed a Belsee android 10 with dual capability to use my factory infotainment + android. Is this the same one ya’ll have? Im also a novice when it comes to all of this so I’m working with a local car stereo shop to figure it all out. 1) We’re either of ya’ll able to plug in the center control knob? Factory system and original screen both had 4pin plugs, but Android has a proprietary plug with 4pin to plug into original infotainment system, so there are no more 4pin ports. 2) when I plug in the RCA cables I get a background static that doesn’t go away — constantly on once the system boots (and is there when I’m on the OEM and Android). Android side base volume is low and I have to crank volume way up to hear. 3) when using wireless Apple car play on Android side and making calls, the receiver gets a horrible immediate echo of their voice. Not sure of the fix for volume and echo, just thought I’d throw it out here if any of you or those on the forum have similar problems or a solution. Thanks!
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Hello stefanek33! Yes, I did buy from Belsee and have been dealing with Rambo since June troubleshooting the issue. It has been very frustrating and I’ve come to the conclusion in my novice mind that the systems are crap. You confirmed it with your professional work on it! I had to look for something because my factory screen crapped out on me — it was going to be $1500 to replace and was backordered by Mazda with unknown stock date so I went looking and found Belsee. Screen size is great but that’s about it. At this point since the factory works, I’m just going to use the thing for the 10.1” screen and get one of those car link adaptors that does the same (android apps, wireless CarPlay) but run it through the factory part and completely ignore the Belsee android (attached the install document and a picture of the split screen android/factory system). All I need to do is figure out how to plug in the center command knob and they plan will work (I think lol).
I’m interested in your suggested fix, but I’m not sure what you mean about the red wire. What is the tau? Do you have a picture example of the wire? I’m sorry — you’re dealing with a complete noob / novice to troubleshooting electronics. Happy holidays!!!
mjs8rkis said:
Hello stefanek33! Yes, I did buy from Belsee and have been dealing with Rambo since June troubleshooting the issue. It has been very frustrating and I’ve come to the conclusion in my novice mind that the systems are crap. You confirmed it with your professional work on it! I had to look for something because my factory screen crapped out on me — it was going to be $1500 to replace and was backordered by Mazda with unknown stock date so I went looking and found Belsee. Screen size is great but that’s about it. At this point since the factory works, I’m just going to use the thing for the 10.1” screen and get one of those car link adaptors that does the same (android apps, wireless CarPlay) but run it through the factory part and completely ignore the Belsee android (attached the install document and a picture of the split screen android/factory system). All I need to do is figure out how to plug in the center command knob and they plan will work (I think lol).
I’m interested in your suggested fix, but I’m not sure what you mean about the red wire. What is the tau? Do you have a picture example of the wire? I’m sorry — you’re dealing with a complete noob / novice to troubleshooting electronics. Happy holidays!!!
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TAU = Tuner Amplifier Unit. Google is my friend. I’m getting smarter at this by the day! Lol. It’s one thing to work through good quality products that have diagrams and such … but having to pull teeth to get back one to two liners in broken English is very frustrating. Even more so when they say these units are “plug and play” lol
you should recieve this wire ..then connect it and run the rcaback to the unit and connect it in to the AUx in..The central knob i havent got any wires i just use the factory wire from the Radio and connected to the Android ..It mus fit try...Central knob connect to the original location...I was bit strugling too as later i figure out from the Original OEM you have to dismount the metal Unit and fit the android unit on it..Of course Mr Rambo didnt provide scrwews so i have to use my one...When you instal the Android on the metal OEM part then just run the blue wire from the Android and connect to the Metal Unit and you should be okay..
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Stefanek33 said:
you should recieve this wire ..then connect it and run the rcaback to the unit and connect it in to the AUx in..The central knob i havent got any wires i just use the factory wire from the Radio and connected to the Android ..It mus fit try...Central knob connect to the original location...I was bit strugling too as later i figure out from the Original OEM you have to dismount the metal Unit and fit the android unit on it..Of course Mr Rambo didnt provide scrwews so i have to use my one...When you instal the Android on the metal OEM part then just run the blue wire from the Android and connect to the Metal Unit and you should be okay..
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Ah yes, received that connector and ran it through to the Aux in on the Android. I have the static and the low volume and echo on Bluetooth/CarPlay calling still.
For the center control knob, I have this power/4pin connector (attached pic), and I can connect it to the factory, but then the Android blue cable that connect from Android head unit to that 4pin port won’t connect. Will I still get the factory system to show? I’ll need to extend the cable though to get it to plug into the factory since it won’t reach.
Thanks!
The blu cable has nothing to do with the central consol .blue wire from android the second end connect to the metal part of oem.
That’s right. But if I leave blue connected to the metal part of OEM, I have no other place to plug the center console plug. All Rambo told me was to unplug the blue and see what happens lol
I connect the central console back to the OEM metal bracket..I think in my one the 4 pins are positioned on the left back side..How is it look like your metal Bracket from back..Can you make some pic.?
I was able to get the center knob to work! I kept the blue 4 pin cable, but apparently in a previous install the guy helping me ran a separate 8pin cable that didn’t connect to anything, so I found the correct 8pin that is connected to the power cable and it all works. Now I just need to try and solve the echo and static issue. I think if I go the way you did and completely replace the Bose system, it would work — though might end up with the same issue you have. Happy New Year!
How is working aux for you?You have to plug the silly 3.5mm jack in to the aux slot then switch to the Aux on the OEM..When you increase the volume on aux did you hear static noise with or without starting the engine?Please let me know!Its very important!
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Stefanek33 said:
If you can please do that .Do not play any music.Just plug in and increase both volumes on max if you hear any hiss or static noise from tweeters etc...The problem is the 3.5mm jack doesn't have close circuit and I wanna find out if this is the main concern causing the issue...
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So I plugged red/white RCA connector to the R/W RCA inputs on the android. I immediately began hearing static at low to zero volume. I did not have the 24 pin adapter cable even connected to the right door radio plug. I also did not have the 35mm jack in the aux slot. So I had the static then, and the after, when I plugged the adapter in and the 35mm in the aux slot, static was still there, but my volume was very low. Turning up the volume made static even worse. I heard the static both without and with the engine started.
Thought it interesting that static started immediately when plugging the RCA male to the RCA inputs on the android and didn’t even have the 24 pin adapter connected.
mjs8rkis said:
So I plugged red/white RCA connector to the R/W RCA inputs on the android. I immediately began hearing static at low to zero volume. I did not have the 24 pin adapter cable even connected to the right door radio plug. I also did not have the 35mm jack in the aux slot. So I had the static then, and the after, when I plugged the adapter in and the 35mm in the aux slot, static was still there, but my volume was very low. Turning up the volume made static even worse. I heard the static both without and with the engine started.
Thought it interesting that static started immediately when plugging the RCA male to the RCA inputs on the android and didn’t even have the 24 pin adapter connected.
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Make some short video and upload on vimeo ..We have to do something with it as Rambo wasnt really honest with as.