I was hoping someone could help.
I need a new 2 Din, Full Android Car Stereo which satisfies the following:
1) Has 4 channels and a subwoofer out
2) The subwoofer out is of normal voltage (ie 4v or above)
3) There is a built in Gain control for the sub on the head unit
4) There is a built in crossover for the speakers and sub so that not too much bass is going to the speakers and not too much mid/treble is going to the sub
5) the above 2 features will be active and work while using 3rd party apps like poweramp etc
All the other stuff like wifi and bluetooth and OBD2 support is assumed as they all seem to do this.
i would appreciate any advice because whenever i email sellers it takes a day to get back to me every time and the answers are always vague and unclear.
many thanks in advance
2-4 I think you're asking too much at this point.. I don't think any of the chinese Android units can meet these requirements at this point. They have SUB output, but no built in crossover which works out of the box. Some units, I believe MTC of sorts, had the hardware but it wasn't hooked up properly, so some people were able to make it work by soldering in some trace wires on the board and moving two resistors. Not something for anyone unless you have good skills in soldering.
For now, I just use an external 3-way active crossover. It works fine. At the moment I'm using the built in amplifier, but will install an amplifier soon as the built in one isn't very powerful, only about 4x15-18W according to the datasheet of the amp IC they used.
Hilari0 said:
2-4 I think you're asking too much at this point.. I don't think any of the chinese Android units can meet these requirements at this point. They have SUB output, but no built in crossover which works out of the box. Some units, I believe MTC of sorts, had the hardware but it wasn't hooked up properly, so some people were able to make it work by soldering in some trace wires on the board and moving two resistors. Not something for anyone unless you have good skills in soldering.
For now, I just use an external 3-way active crossover. It works fine. At the moment I'm using the built in amplifier, but will install an amplifier soon as the built in one isn't very powerful, only about 4x15-18W according to the datasheet of the amp IC they used.
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Click to collapse
Hi mate, thanks for your response.
So what i have at the moment is the head unit below:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01CGA5...483542345&sr=sr-1&keywords=android+car+stereo
A fitter came and set up my sub and amp from my old car. The rca goes straight from the sub out of the unit into the amp at the back which powers the sub.
The problem i am having is that when i want to hear the sub i have to turn the bass up - when i turn the bass up too high the speakers crackle as the equaliser is universal.
Someone recommended me a PAC LD-10 low pass line which will increase the voltage to the amp for my sub and give me a knob to control the level....will fitting this be enough to do the job?
can you send me a link to your 3-way cross over?
thanks
I'm not using a special crossover by any means, just a standard crossover which are readily available. Not sure the specific one I use, but it looks pretty much identical to this one but with a different color:
http://www.lazada.com.ph/boschmann-mobile-audio-electronic-crossover-23-way-xm-3a-9196761.html
The PAC LD-10 will increase the line level yes, so you get a good signal over 4V. As far as I know, this is a pure preamplifier (or signal booster if you will), without any sort of crossover. It has separate controls for left/right, so you can adjust balance, but that's about it. You can read all about it here:
http://www.pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=264&CategoryID=28
You get them on Amazon/ebay for $18.49 plus shipping.
Hilari0 said:
I'm not using a special crossover by any means, just a standard crossover which are readily available. Not sure the specific one I use, but it looks pretty much identical to this one but with a different color:
http://www.lazada.com.ph/boschmann-mobile-audio-electronic-crossover-23-way-xm-3a-9196761.html
The PAC LD-10 will increase the line level yes, so you get a good signal over 4V. As far as I know, this is a pure preamplifier (or signal booster if you will), without any sort of crossover. It has separate controls for left/right, so you can adjust balance, but that's about it. You can read all about it here:
http://www.pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=264&CategoryID=28
You get them on Amazon/ebay for $18.49 plus shipping.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks mate.
Does the sub-out on my unit not limit the frequency to say 120 or 150 and below? So hopefully i will just need a crossover for the speakers...?
So if i need a PAC LD-10 for the sub and a crossover for the speakers will my battery be able to cope with powering both of those as well as the Head Unit?
When I hooked up the subwoofer in my car to the SUB output on my head unit, it sounded awful. It seemed to play full range sound without any crossover, and the sound was greatly improved when I installed the crossover. I didn't have an issue with it being too low though, so depending on the way your amplifier and head unit is designed, your results may vary. If you plan on using aftermarket amplifiers for all the speakers, I recommend using an external crossover, either one like I use or the one that is built in on the amplifiers themselves, as many come with that already.
Hilari0 said:
When I hooked up the subwoofer in my car to the SUB output on my head unit, it sounded awful. It seemed to play full range sound without any crossover, and the sound was greatly improved when I installed the crossover. I didn't have an issue with it being too low though, so depending on the way your amplifier and head unit is designed, your results may vary. If you plan on using aftermarket amplifiers for all the speakers, I recommend using an external crossover, either one like I use or the one that is built in on the amplifiers themselves, as many come with that already.
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Click to collapse
the amp connected to my sub has a built in filter and gain. The gain is on max but i can only hear the sub properly when i turn the bass up on my equaliser, but it still doesnt thump like it did in my old car. The other issue is that the speakers crackles as soon as you start turning the volume up after that. I dont think i need an amp for the speakers as they can even take the Head Units power as they crackle when i turn it up....unless this is becasue the audio quality is so bad.....jesus i never realised this would be so complicated when i had it fitted.
i forgot to remind you as well - will the normal car battery power these devices and headunit...and i also have my amp in the boot...
Speakers will always perform better with a strong amp vs a weak amp. And a weak amp can make good speakers crackle even if they're far from their max power output, due to the amplifier not being able to handle the load. If you have a car with a proprietary amplifier system which uses weird inputs, it may be a challenge to make it work properly and you might be better served replacing that amplifier with an aftermarket one. Don't throw the stock factory amp away, if you ever want to reinstall the OEM system when you sell it or similar. If not, selling it may give a nice income as some of these go for a premium.
---------- Post added at 01:03 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:59 AM ----------
Oh, and yeah. A standard car battery and alternator should be able to handle a normal sized sound system, even if it's aftermarket. I wouldn't be worried about installing a head unit, a 4x50W amp and a monoblock amp for the subwoofer. Perhaps I'd go to the step of installing a capacitor if the subwoofer was more than 200W and the dash lights started dimming, but this is usually only an issue if you install a huge sound system. Normal listening levels never reaches high power demands..
Hilari0 said:
Speakers will always perform better with a strong amp vs a weak amp. And a weak amp can make good speakers crackle even if they're far from their max power output, due to the amplifier not being able to handle the load. If you have a car with a proprietary amplifier system which uses weird inputs, it may be a challenge to make it work properly and you might be better served replacing that amplifier with an aftermarket one. Don't throw the stock factory amp away, if you ever want to reinstall the OEM system when you sell it or similar. If not, selling it may give a nice income as some of these go for a premium.
---------- Post added at 01:03 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:59 AM ----------
Oh, and yeah. A standard car battery and alternator should be able to handle a normal sized sound system, even if it's aftermarket. I wouldn't be worried about installing a head unit, a 4x50W amp and a monoblock amp for the subwoofer. Perhaps I'd go to the step of installing a capacitor if the subwoofer was more than 200W and the dash lights started dimming, but this is usually only an issue if you install a huge sound system. Normal listening levels never reaches high power demands..
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Click to collapse
spot on mate - the major issue with my oem kit is that it was fibre optic from the main head unit to the back amp. However the guy that fitted the stereo for me asured me that the power from the HU would be more than enough to power the speakers in the car...looks like he was wrong!
So in summary i can buy one of these as the amp for the 4 speakers
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-JbbC3Sa3qOK/p_500MRVF300/Alpine-MRV-F300.html
And then get the PAC LD-10 for the sub and that should be me done right? In theory...LOL
I don't see any reason why it shouldn't work, but I don't know anything about the headunit you have so I have no idea if it has good or bad preamp outputs. It does look like a pretty standard Rockchip based unit, so I suppose it would work fine.
Powering speakers with the built in amplifier works, but only to a certain point. It's mostly good for your bog standard OEM speakers from a mid to low class vehicle. Anything premium or larger setup in a luxury vehicle typically requires a bit more power than the internal one can give. I know they write 4x50W on the box for the head unit, but that number is a peak output power at 10% THD or something, horribly overrated. hehe. Not sure if your head unit uses the same amp IC as the Joying ones, but I checked the datasheet on that and it was at 4x15W at 4 ohms when it crossed the 0.1% THD mark, and you typically don't want to go beyond that.
Hilari0 said:
I don't see any reason why it shouldn't work, but I don't know anything about the headunit you have so I have no idea if it has good or bad preamp outputs. It does look like a pretty standard Rockchip based unit, so I suppose it would work fine.
Powering speakers with the built in amplifier works, but only to a certain point. It's mostly good for your bog standard OEM speakers from a mid to low class vehicle. Anything premium or larger setup in a luxury vehicle typically requires a bit more power than the internal one can give. I know they write 4x50W on the box for the head unit, but that number is a peak output power at 10% THD or something, horribly overrated. hehe. Not sure if your head unit uses the same amp IC as the Joying ones, but I checked the datasheet on that and it was at 4x15W at 4 ohms when it crossed the 0.1% THD mark, and you typically don't want to go beyond that.
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Click to collapse
ok - i have booked in the fitting;
- a 4 x 50w rms amp with variable crossover for the speakers
- Line driver for the sub with variable gain
One more question. I have an RMA set up on the Head Unit. Is there a "best full android head unit" that i can buy and send this one back?
I want the unit with the best balance of being fast cpu (the one i have does lag a bit when trying to go in and out of apps and i am not used to that as i have always had decent android devices - it can be very frustrating), enough ram and 16gb storage minimum and also better sound quality than the one i have.
From what i gather they are all pretty similar in regard to the above but is there one out at the moment which stands out from the rest in terms of sound quality but keeps the full android and decent cpu?
Well, at the moment the best units around is the Intel Sofia based units with 2GB ram, they come with 32GB internal storage as well. I have the Joying JY-UL135N2 and I'm happy with it. As with all of the chinese Android head units, it has a few quirks, but it doesn't have any dealbreaking stuff. Plus it has fully working Bluetooth, just that they removed it from the Settings menu.. hehe. There's a thread here on the forum on how to make the full stock Bluetooth settings open, so that's really great!
Here's my head unit: https://www.carjoying.com/joying-ne...-wifi-mirror-link-entertainment-multimed.html
And here's the thread for full bluetooth: https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...elopment/bluetooth-settings-launcher-t3504526
The biggest problem with it is that it doesn't have a good heatsink on it, so the CPU gets pretty hot. It still performs smoothly, so not a big issue but I don't like that it runs so hot so personally I'm gonna attach an Intel stock CPU cooler from a desktop with thermal epoxy, and that should take care of it.
Hilari0 said:
Well, at the moment the best units around is the Intel Sofia based units with 2GB ram, they come with 32GB internal storage as well. I have the Joying JY-UL135N2 and I'm happy with it. As with all of the chinese Android head units, it has a few quirks, but it doesn't have any dealbreaking stuff. Plus it has fully working Bluetooth, just that they removed it from the Settings menu.. hehe. There's a thread here on the forum on how to make the full stock Bluetooth settings open, so that's really great!
Here's my head unit: https://www.carjoying.com/joying-ne...-wifi-mirror-link-entertainment-multimed.html
And here's the thread for full bluetooth: https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...elopment/bluetooth-settings-launcher-t3504526
The biggest problem with it is that it doesn't have a good heatsink on it, so the CPU gets pretty hot. It still performs smoothly, so not a big issue but I don't like that it runs so hot so personally I'm gonna attach an Intel stock CPU cooler from a desktop with thermal epoxy, and that should take care of it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok great. I appreciate this
so just to clarify, with your stereo, there is no Bluetooth in the settings? So is there no way to pair your phone to make/receive calls unless i use this workaround? Why in the hell would they do that??
Also does this unit have usb flash ports so i can plug my 128gb flash drive in?
Also does it have sub-out?
nk33 said:
ok great. I appreciate this
so just to clarify, with your stereo, there is no Bluetooth in the settings? So is there no way to pair your phone to make/receive calls unless i use this workaround? Why in the hell would they do that??
Also does this unit have usb flash ports so i can plug my 128gb flash drive in?
Also does it have sub-out?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
EDIT
Actually i can see the sub -out.
It says bluetooth 4 on the site....if i only want to use the Bluetooth for making calls etc i am assuming i wont need to do the mod?
i use wifi tethering from my phone anyway - not Bluetooth - i am assuming this stereo will be ok with this.
damn this stereo looks good.
should i be worried about the heat? i am seriously thinking of buying this and getting them to fit it along with the other equipment...and send the other one back for a refund
The bluetooth works out of the box, but it's somewhat limited with their not so good bluetooth dialer app. It works to call and such, and limited pairing, but you only get full use of it if you do the mod mentioned in that thread. It's pretty easy to do that mod though. And yes, it has sub out but there's no built in crossover or anything.
Most likely it will work well despite the heat. In the worst case, would you be comfortable in opening it and installing a heatsink on it? Thermal epoxy seems to be the way to go there, Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive is the one I'm gonna use, just waiting for it to show up in the mail.
http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_alumina_thermal_adhesive.htm
Hilari0 said:
Most likely it will work well despite the heat. In the worst case, would you be comfortable in opening it and installing a heatsink on it? Thermal epoxy seems to be the way to go there, Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive is the one I'm gonna use, just waiting for it to show up in the mail.
http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_alumina_thermal_adhesive.htm
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Click to collapse
Ok, I have ordered the head unit you have.
I will ask the fitter if he is willing to add a heatsink for me.
If it has an intel sofia processor… surely the processor has a heatsync gel and hearsink already?? It surely will overheat without one…?
Tell me are the audio specs better than my current unit? What is the rms on the speakers and the sub out voltage?
Sent from my SM-G925F using XDA Free mobile app
I have no idea what the output voltage is on the sub or preamp outputs, but the built in amp is 4x15-18W rms at 0,1 %thd. I can post a datasheet to the amplifier IC they use if you want. The sub output seems loud enough, I just use an active crossover on it with the gain set at 0 db.
@Hilari0 I disagree that the sofia units are the best. Mainly because the whole chipset was a failure and development stopped and you will never get updates and never see android 6 even. So after 2 years it is garbage. Also MTK based quad core units are slightly faster and support Android 6, 4G/LTE etc. natively.
http://www.pcworld.com/article/3063...-tablet-markets-after-cutting-atom-chips.html
I myself bought an Ownice C500 after considering all the options. It was also cheaper and so far there does not seem to be any problems reported. The only downside is that it has 16GB storage, but well I am thinking I will stick in an SD card if it ever becomes a problem.
Also C500 units have a subwoofer out but I don't know if it completely satisfies the requirements of the OP. I just ordered a C500 unit myself and waiting for it although I won't use the subwoofer out.
Hi there,
Since this is my first post i want to say hello to everyone!
I decided 3 weeks ago to buy an android head unit for my audi a3, since i was bored listening radio or audio cd;s only...
Audi OEM RNS-E navigation was an option but it's too expensive just to have navigation, bt, and mp3 in my car... so i decided to go for an android hu that fits my dash...
I found this Xtrons android HU and bought it....
I was aware about the poor sound quality BUT it's actually VER VERY bad!!! on standard 10 speakers Audi sound system... (i was ready to root the device and use viper4android, or any hardware mod to improve the sound)
BUT I was lucky to find a BOSE sound system which i retrofitted on my car, and now the sound it's much better... like 8/10
NOW the last problem that i'm facing is some background noise, which i can't explain where it came from.
It only happen when i plug in the xtrons head unit. I swapped to the original Audi HU and there is no background noise. This means the background noise is picked up / generated by the Xtrons HU.
The noise is like a continuous "buzz" plus 2-3 pops and it only appears when the unit is on pause, mute or very low volume AND ONLY WHEN I SWITCH THE IGNITION ON (NO ENGINE RUNNING), if i revers the ignition to 0 position the noise disappears.
If the engine is running the noise is there, but is very hard to hear due to the diesel engine...
This noise IS NOT a wining noise, like an alternator generated...
Anyone encounter this problem? Is there any fix?
Tomorrow i am going to replace all the Xtrons HU extension cables (audio/video in/out) with shielded cables, and if doesn't work, i'll try some ferrite(s) maybe it helps...
Thanks!
justincr83 said:
Hi there,
Since this is my first post i want to say hello to everyone!
I decided 3 weeks ago to buy an android head unit for my audi a3, since i was bored listening radio or audio cd;s only...
Audi OEM RNS-E navigation was an option but it's too expensive just to have navigation, bt, and mp3 in my car... so i decided to go for an android hu that fits my dash...
I found this Xtrons android HU and bought it....
I was aware about the poor sound quality BUT it's actually VER VERY bad!!! on standard 10 speakers Audi sound system... (i was ready to root the device and use viper4android, or any hardware mod to improve the sound)
BUT I was lucky to find a BOSE sound system which i retrofitted on my car, and now the sound it's much better... like 8/10
NOW the last problem that i'm facing is some background noise, which i can't explain where it came from.
It only happen when i plug in the xtrons head unit. I swapped to the original Audi HU and there is no background noise. This means the background noise is picked up / generated by the Xtrons HU.
The noise is like a continuous "buzz" plus 2-3 pops and it only appears when the unit is on pause, mute or very low volume AND ONLY WHEN I SWITCH THE IGNITION ON (NO ENGINE RUNNING), if i revers the ignition to 0 position the noise disappears.
If the engine is running the noise is there, but is very hard to hear due to the diesel engine...
This noise IS NOT a wining noise, like an alternator generated...
Anyone encounter this problem? Is there any fix?
Tomorrow i am going to replace all the Xtrons HU extension cables (audio/video in/out) with shielded cables, and if doesn't work, i'll try some ferrite(s) maybe it helps...
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have that problem with my Erisin, too. Curious whether your new cables will solve the noise problem. Please post it here, if it worked out :good:
justincr83 said:
Hi there,
Since this is my first post i want to say hello to everyone!
I decided 3 weeks ago to buy an android head unit for my audi a3, since i was bored listening radio or audio cd;s only...
Audi OEM RNS-E navigation was an option but it's too expensive just to have navigation, bt, and mp3 in my car... so i decided to go for an android hu that fits my dash...
I found this Xtrons android HU and bought it....
I was aware about the poor sound quality BUT it's actually VER VERY bad!!! on standard 10 speakers Audi sound system... (i was ready to root the device and use viper4android, or any hardware mod to improve the sound)
BUT I was lucky to find a BOSE sound system which i retrofitted on my car, and now the sound it's much better... like 8/10
NOW the last problem that i'm facing is some background noise, which i can't explain where it came from.
It only happen when i plug in the xtrons head unit. I swapped to the original Audi HU and there is no background noise. This means the background noise is picked up / generated by the Xtrons HU.
The noise is like a continuous "buzz" plus 2-3 pops and it only appears when the unit is on pause, mute or very low volume AND ONLY WHEN I SWITCH THE IGNITION ON (NO ENGINE RUNNING), if i revers the ignition to 0 position the noise disappears.
If the engine is running the noise is there, but is very hard to hear due to the diesel engine...
This noise IS NOT a wining noise, like an alternator generated...
Anyone encounter this problem? Is there any fix?
Tomorrow i am going to replace all the Xtrons HU extension cables (audio/video in/out) with shielded cables, and if doesn't work, i'll try some ferrite(s) maybe it helps...
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey you. Did the new cables solve the problem? I'm asking because I want to get rid of the annoying sound, too.
Sc4r3Crow said:
Hey you. Did the new cables solve the problem? I'm asking because I want to get rid of the annoying sound, too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately, no, i didn't fix the annoying buzz
justincr83 said:
Unfortunately, no, i didn't fix the annoying buzz
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's a pity ?
Did you also try a noise suppressor or something like that?
Sc4r3Crow said:
It's a pity ?
Did you also try a noise suppressor or something like that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey,
Has anyone found solution to this annoying noise ? I have installed XTRONS unit in my audi a3 and can't get rid of it. Have tried already ground loop isolators and ferrite filters with no luck.
I am replacing an old 4.4.2 Joying head unit with their new px5 4GB unit.
The wiring diagrams are identical as are the wiring harnesses so I figured I could just unplug the iso connection from the old and plug the new one in.
I get power but no audio. The external factory amp doesn’t seem to be powering on because with the old I would get a slight sound in the speakers as the head unit came fully on in the main screen.
Any ideas? I was going to start testing the pin outs but I just don’t get what could be different.
TheCleaner said:
I am replacing an old 4.4.2 Joying head unit with their new px5 4GB unit.
The wiring diagrams are identical as are the wiring harnesses so I figured I could just unplug the iso connection from the old and plug the new one in.
I get power but no audio. The external factory amp doesn’t seem to be powering on because with the old I would get a slight sound in the speakers as the head unit came fully on in the main screen.
Any ideas? I was going to start testing the pin outs but I just don’t get what could be different.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
FYI, to close this out for others. The issue was the AMP CONT pin wasn't supplying 12 volts with the radio on. Tested with a multimeter. Frustrating, and trying to deal with Joying support to send something like this back to China is a PITA.
So, to deal with it I ended up cutting AMP CONT right before the fuse, and then splicing it into the red/accessory wire. Same effect. Good to go now.
TheCleaner said:
FYI, to close this out for others. The issue was the AMP CONT pin wasn't supplying 12 volts with the radio on. Tested with a multimeter. Frustrating, and trying to deal with Joying support to send something like this back to China is a PITA.
So, to deal with it I ended up cutting AMP CONT right before the fuse, and then splicing it into the red/accessory wire. Same effect. Good to go now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same problem here. I emailed joying support no help yet. I was looking for a setting in car setup that used to be in the android 6 units to tell it you wanted the external amp trigger enabled - I could not find that setting in the new Joying Android 8 unit.
sounds exactly like my issue I have posted on Joying forums and have a long chat with Candy at Joying. I am at a loss because the radio app when it comes on plays just fine via my external amp and sub. But when I switch to spotify or bluetooth audio. I get nothing. then if I mute and unmute I get audio to my front and rears but nothing to my subwoofer. I was looking for the external amp settings like I had in my 6.1 Android unit. Nothing. Dont want to send it back because it is fast and looks great. If I do send it back, I am just going to go with Seicane.
Hello all this worked for me. Try taking the top cover off the head unit and look on the board for the round sticker on top of the MCU (in my case the sticker said TP6735D v43-6686) and search the sticker info. Download only the MCU update with the same sticker info (in my case I needed TP6735D v43) after update the sound is working again. Not sure why the website MCU update takes out the sound. Good thing is, you can rollback . Hope this helps.
Playing music from USB will wake our factory amp, but radio station music does not. What would cause this? Is there a way to get radio to wake amp? I think(?) Amp Cont wire is unconnected.
Hey all,
I upgraded from a PX5 Xtrons. Had no issues with it.
When volume is muted, there's no sound. When on 1 or higher, there's a background fuzz. Not static but just a general oldschool hifi 'furry' sound. It doesn't get louder if I turn the volume up. I've tried unplugging everything but the main harness. Doesn't matter if the engine is running or not.
I'm using the Xtrons harness because I didn't want to have to run a whole new one to the boot where the factory amp is. It looks like there's a couple of pins different too. Hoping it's not that...
Any ideas?
Thanks.
Honestly most of these units in my experience have some. WiFi, cell phones, radio etc can sometimes be picked up by the amplifier circuit and you'll hear their resonate frequencies through the car stereo (turn any stereo up loud and put a phone near the active input cable... you'll hear it). Honestly the best thing you can do is make sure the radio is grounded to your chassis directly, that way a lot of these spurious signals are filtered properly and their pesky resonates cease to exist!
Oh and it usually quits when you turn it to 0 because it actually completely shuts down the amplifier...
Thanks for the response. I’ll pull the head unit out at some stage and try and ground it. If it fixes it I’ll report back. Thanks again.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hi Guys,
A while back, I purchased the T10 unit from Srnubi. It worked perfectly for day 1. All speakers working, subwoofer was loud, everything was great. I came back to the car the next day and there was 0 subwoofer! Nothing was changed, everything normal so I started trouble shooting and I testing turning the bass up on the DSP to max, only then I could very faintly hear the Sub working. I figured I would try to reset the unit in hopes that it would work but now I have a factory android head unit with no running software (except the android auto and carplay software) and still next to no subwoofer output. This lead me to believe that the subwoofer out RCA is not working. I tested all RCA's and they're all very faint (I'm running the speakers from an amp which is connected to the head units speaker wire as the chanels). Has anyone had this issue before and is there a way I can fix the RCA Output without opening up the headunit and looking for faults on the board? And how do I install the firmware that Srnubi has sent through? They've completely stopped replying to me and didn't provide any instruction, worst part is they waited until my 15 days was over to stop replying and now I can't raise a dispute on AliExpress.
Any help would be much appreciated!
Cheers!
rorschach_96 said:
Hi Guys,
A while back, I purchased the T10 unit from Srnubi. It worked perfectly for day 1. All speakers working, subwoofer was loud, everything was great. I came back to the car the next day and there was 0 subwoofer! Nothing was changed, everything normal so I started trouble shooting and I testing turning the bass up on the DSP to max, only then I could very faintly hear the Sub working. I figured I would try to reset the unit in hopes that it would work but now I have a factory android head unit with no running software (except the android auto and carplay software) and still next to no subwoofer output. This lead me to believe that the subwoofer out RCA is not working. I tested all RCA's and they're all very faint (I'm running the speakers from an amp which is connected to the head units speaker wire as the chanels). Has anyone had this issue before and is there a way I can fix the RCA Output without opening up the headunit and looking for faults on the board? And how do I install the firmware that Srnubi has sent through? They've completely stopped replying to me and didn't provide any instruction, worst part is they waited until my 15 days was over to stop replying and now I can't raise a dispute on AliExpress.
Any help would be much appreciated!
Cheers!
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DSP output to subwoofer has probably burned (regulator voltage chip inside on board), must be replaced.