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E46 - Joying JY-BL121N2 5.1.1

I managed to find an E46 SoFIA chip, 2GB RAM, 32GB Flash by Joying, JY-BL121N2 $309
It looks like they are using the old fascia as it has a DVD slot and states the buttons don't work.
Does anybody know which MTC this will be (I have asked but no reply)?

if it is like the 8 inch universal I have, it will not be MTC at all, it will have a super long MCU name, but no mention of MTC, and ends in "Newlap"

Blaze Falconburger said:
I managed to find an E46 SoFIA chip, 2GB RAM, 32GB Flash by Joying, JY-BL121N2 $309
It looks like they are using the old fascia as it has a DVD slot and states the buttons don't work.
Does anybody know which MTC this will be (I have asked but no reply)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Joying units are NOT MTC.
The Joying unit will have an FYT5009 SoM.

Thanks for the help all, ordered will give feedback when I've set it up. Ive done over a month of no music now so almost anything is welcome. Luckily ive been on the train a lot so haven't had to endure the sweet diesel clatter for too long each day!

Any Feedback on this unit? Interested to buy one of these for my E53 X5

Saiyajin said:
Any Feedback on this unit? Interested to buy one of these for my E53 X5
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have one for my E46
What do you want to know?
I'm happy with it, run mostly Waze, and spotify in online/offline mode.
My E46 has one FAKRA connector to the vehicle harness, the provided adapter is a two FAKRA system to the unit with a blue 12V wire (ANT power). This is for older vehicles, with an older antenna amplifier that needs 12V from the radio. connecting the wrong of the identical FAKRA connectors and you have 12V sent back to the amplifier which might destroy it.... I measured so that I connected the right FAKRA connector and did not use the blue 12V cable. Still I have terrible radio reception! So I ordered an extra ANT-208 antenna amplifier, Ill see if it makes a difference when it turns up.
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And I also ordered a single FAKRA to ISO cable:
Will let you know if i get some better reception with the ANT-208.
BT works good, except sometimes the other person on the call don't hear me well on the external mic, i think it is just noise from the road.
BT tethering does not work out of the box as BT settings are removed from settings.apk, I will replace the APK with a ASOP built one for BT tethering.

totaltmega said:
This is for older vehicles, with an older antenna amplifier that needs 12V from the radio. connecting the wrong of the identical FAKRA connectors and you have 12V sent back to the amplifier which might destroy it.... I measured so that I connected the right FAKRA connector and did not use the blue 12V cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So wait - if I connect the blue wire to the cables, and connect the wrong FAKRA connector (I actually tried both!) I will destroy my antenna amplifier because it's feeding in a 12V power supply? I thought, that the blue cable is for transmitting the radio signal back to the headunit. How is the signal supposed to go back otherwise? I don't have any other connectors in the front - the antenna cable including it's FAKRA style connector is in the trunk.

Please beware that the antenna amplifier in our E46 car, normaly starts automatically. Look at the diagram, pin 16 uses a 12 volts signal to you're antenna amplifier. what you could do is to take out pin 16 out of the pin connector and connect it directly with the blue wire of the radio or take a piece of wire and make a bridge from pin 16 to the 12 volt on pin 5. Otherwise, a bad reception could be caused by bad contacts with the antenna in the rear window by dust or moist, try to clean it with dry air (like for pc's) if nothing works you have to replace the antenna amplifier.
https://i.imgur.com/E1uY9Ye.jpg
Good luck

I also tried the blue wire and the "wrong" fakra connector connected, sending only 12v back to the amp, no signal. But I tested the OEM radio after and it worked so I didn't break the antenna amplifier fortunately.
I left the pin 16 as it is for 12v back to the antenna amp via the "external speaker amp power output", brown/white if I remember correctly that is connected to pin 16. I measured it under load and it was 13V so no need to re pin it to use the blue wire instead which has more current out. I could also hear that the signal was cut off when i disabled AMP Power in the settings menu, so the power to the antenna amp works as it should, but not enough sensitivity in this radio, therefore I'm waiting for the ANT-208.

totaltmega said:
I also tried the blue wire and the "wrong" fakra connector connected, sending only 12v back to the amp, no signal. But I tested the OEM radio after and it worked so I didn't break the antenna amplifier fortunately.
I left the pin 16 as it is for 12v back to the antenna amp via the "external speaker amp power output", brown/white if I remember correctly that is connected to pin 16. I measured it under load and it was 13V so no need to re pin it to use the blue wire instead which has more current out. I could also hear that the signal was cut off when i disabled AMP Power in the settings menu, so the power to the antenna amp works as it should, but not enough sensitivity in this radio, therefore I'm waiting for the ANT-208.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From what I've understood we still need to connect this big clunky metall antenna plug into the headunit - right? If that's the case I'm afraid I have a problem. I had to buy the 5m extension harness, since my X5 had the factory NavSat which has all the original connectors in the trunk, under the spare tire. Even though I have the antenna adapter with the FAKRA plugs, I have no way to get that big metall connector to the headunit in the front.

Saiyajin said:
From what I've understood we still need to connect this big clunky metall antenna plug into the headunit - right? If that's the case I'm afraid I have a problem. I had to buy the 5m extension harness, since my X5 had the factory NavSat which has all the original connectors in the trunk, under the spare tire. Even though I have the antenna adapter with the FAKRA plugs, I have no way to get that big metall connector to the headunit in the front.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks like you have to route a long fakra extention cable all the way to the front, or try to fit a small antenna somewhere in the front.

totaltmega said:
Looks like you have to route a long fakra extention cable all the way to the front, or try to fit a small antenna somewhere in the front.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So - to sum up. Joying fu**ed up and forgot to include an antenna cable in their 5 m extension cable. Also: after 3 mail going back and forth with the joying support, they just simply stopped responding to my questions. Doesn't look like they're interested in resolving the issue. Probably because they realized that they fu**ed up. :silly:

I got the ANT-208 and I have better reception now but its not as good as stock radio.
Another issue I have:
Got the rear camera in the mail but the Joying does not recognize when I'm in reverse. There is a orange cable going to the CAN Box that should trigger a 12V signal on the orange cable when in reverse. I tested to add 12V manually with the CAN Box disconnected and it triggered.
Does your radio trigger a black screen when in reverse?
Does BMW IBus even have the reversing command for CAN Box to listen too?
Waiting for support from Joying, hoping they have some CAN Box upgrade for me, else I have to cut the orange wire and trigger it from the reversing lights...

[Does BMW IBus even have the reversing command for CAN Box to listen too?
I have a Ownice C200 and have a 325ci with a SMG gearbox, if i put the gearbox in drive, the screen went black, when i put it in neutral the screen came back on, if i put in reverse it get a black screen again. I contacted Ownice and had to cut the pink wire on the canbus and the problem was solved. So yes, it could be that your canbus thinks it had to go in reversing mode if it's a SMG or automatic grearbox.

Flemischguy said:
[Does BMW IBus even have the reversing command for CAN Box to listen too?
I have a Ownice C200 and have a 325ci with a SMG gearbox, if i put the gearbox in drive, the screen went black, when i put it in neutral the screen came back on, if i put in reverse it get a black screen again. I contacted Ownice and had to cut the pink wire on the canbus and the problem was solved. So yes, it could be that your canbus thinks it had to go in reversing mode if it's a SMG or automatic grearbox.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good to know, hope there is one for manual gearbox as well.

I eventually received my unit and have had it in now for a few weeks - coming from an MTCB it is much better - audio quality is actually pretty decent, way better than the MTCB (I only have uprated speakers, no external amp or sub), and the speed of the unit to boot and in operation is lightning fast in comparison.
I'm using PowerAmp and the Folder view with a USB disk with around 300GB of MP3s on, which only required the single USB connection to power it, not an additional one. It catalogs it way quicker than the MTCB used to - I don't use the library view, that just doesn't work for me. I mounted the hard disk in the glove box on some velcro and ran the cable through to the head unit, very easy.
I mostly use Waze for navigation, or Google Maps or the installed iGO - all work well, though I haven't used them in too much depth
Bluetooth - works for phone calls, I've not tried audio or OBD adapters over it
FM - I plugged it in as reception is bad here so I can't listen to anything when moving as it keeps cutting in and out, but I haven't even tested it works - I do remember seeing the 2 connectors on the back of the head unit, I didn't realise they were different. I'll try later and see what I've broken
Steering wheel controls worked out the box perfectly
I am considering adding a DAB adapter to give some kind of radio ability
Niggles
I'm not sure if the radio always properly hibernates. I think the value in the menu is set to 10 minutes, but plenty of times I have come back after it has been parked for 12 hours and it has done the quick resume. I've also had a random flat battery since fitting this head unit after the car was parked again for about 12 hours - totally dead, it wouldn't even crank. I never had this before, and I didn't find anything else on which would have caused it to totally drain. I haven't had it since, but it's only been in for 3-4 weeks.
Also a few times it has totally reset the settings - it's obvious when it powers on as the time is always wrong - it's nearly always 16 hours behind, the keypad touch tones are back on and the EQ has reset. I'm not sure what causes this, but at least the car has always started when this is the case.
Reversing - I don't have a reverse camera but everytime I reverse the head unit keeps switching to show a black screen with reverse lines - I couldn't see a way to fully disable this in the menu, so I probably need to remove a reverse signal wire (assuming it's not done over the can bus)
Fitting - in the UK E46 the air vent ducting behind the head unit is not parallel to the head unit - it is closer to the passenger side (left hand side as facing the head unit), leaving more room behind the right hand side. So where are the connectors? All on the left hand side, meaning everything is tight and bent at awkward angles as it comes out of the head unit.
Also - the amount of boxes and cables - I'm not sure if it's more or if everything is just bigger than the MTCB I had (which also had separate can bus box), but it was a very tight fit and took ages to route things as best I could to all the head unit to eventually seat all the way in. Fiddly, but possible

Blaze Falconburger said:
Reversing - I don't have a reverse camera but everytime I reverse the head unit keeps switching to show a black screen with reverse lines - I couldn't see a way to fully disable this in the menu, so I probably need to remove a reverse signal wire (assuming it's not done over the can bus)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Disconnect the orange wire between CAN Box and Radio and you will not trigger the reverse black screen.
I have the problem that it doesn't trigger at all, seems like I need a new CAN Box. Do you have an automatic or manual transmission?
You can disable the lines but i don't think you can disable the trigger in software.

I have a manual gearbox. It is actually quite delayed in enabling it - often I've reversed into a space and just as I am stopping it decides to enable it. Ive no idea if the reverse lights are also delayed at coming on so I'm not sure if the delay is the reverse switch or the radio. But I'll disable it anyway, thanks for the clarification on the reverse wire colour.
Is it a can signal or just a high/low?

Blaze Falconburger said:
I have a manual gearbox. It is actually quite delayed in enabling it - often I've reversed into a space and just as I am stopping it decides to enable it. Ive no idea if the reverse lights are also delayed at coming on so I'm not sure if the delay is the reverse switch or the radio. But I'll disable it anyway, thanks for the clarification on the reverse wire colour.
Is it a can signal or just a high/low?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its a fully orange wire (not dual color like orange/fainted white) that goes from CAN Box to Radio and it only triggers the reverse, so you don't remove the can signals from the CAN Box att all.
I might just wire the orange wire to the break lights as it might be faster than the CAN Box. My reversing lights are instant. Good to know.

I have the same unit except for the states. I made a bigger mistake by upgrading to 6.0 on this device. If you haven't already DONT DO IT!!!! Glitchy as hell. Also if you guys know of a custom rom that can be put here, please let me know.

New Joying unit replacing old Joying - no audio

I am replacing an old 4.4.2 Joying head unit with their new px5 4GB unit.
The wiring diagrams are identical as are the wiring harnesses so I figured I could just unplug the iso connection from the old and plug the new one in.
I get power but no audio. The external factory amp doesn’t seem to be powering on because with the old I would get a slight sound in the speakers as the head unit came fully on in the main screen.
Any ideas? I was going to start testing the pin outs but I just don’t get what could be different.

TheCleaner said:
I am replacing an old 4.4.2 Joying head unit with their new px5 4GB unit.
The wiring diagrams are identical as are the wiring harnesses so I figured I could just unplug the iso connection from the old and plug the new one in.
I get power but no audio. The external factory amp doesn’t seem to be powering on because with the old I would get a slight sound in the speakers as the head unit came fully on in the main screen.
Any ideas? I was going to start testing the pin outs but I just don’t get what could be different.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
FYI, to close this out for others. The issue was the AMP CONT pin wasn't supplying 12 volts with the radio on. Tested with a multimeter. Frustrating, and trying to deal with Joying support to send something like this back to China is a PITA.
So, to deal with it I ended up cutting AMP CONT right before the fuse, and then splicing it into the red/accessory wire. Same effect. Good to go now.

TheCleaner said:
FYI, to close this out for others. The issue was the AMP CONT pin wasn't supplying 12 volts with the radio on. Tested with a multimeter. Frustrating, and trying to deal with Joying support to send something like this back to China is a PITA.
So, to deal with it I ended up cutting AMP CONT right before the fuse, and then splicing it into the red/accessory wire. Same effect. Good to go now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same problem here. I emailed joying support no help yet. I was looking for a setting in car setup that used to be in the android 6 units to tell it you wanted the external amp trigger enabled - I could not find that setting in the new Joying Android 8 unit.

sounds exactly like my issue I have posted on Joying forums and have a long chat with Candy at Joying. I am at a loss because the radio app when it comes on plays just fine via my external amp and sub. But when I switch to spotify or bluetooth audio. I get nothing. then if I mute and unmute I get audio to my front and rears but nothing to my subwoofer. I was looking for the external amp settings like I had in my 6.1 Android unit. Nothing. Dont want to send it back because it is fast and looks great. If I do send it back, I am just going to go with Seicane.

Hello all this worked for me. Try taking the top cover off the head unit and look on the board for the round sticker on top of the MCU (in my case the sticker said TP6735D v43-6686) and search the sticker info. Download only the MCU update with the same sticker info (in my case I needed TP6735D v43) after update the sound is working again. Not sure why the website MCU update takes out the sound. Good thing is, you can rollback . Hope this helps.

Playing music from USB will wake our factory amp, but radio station music does not. What would cause this? Is there a way to get radio to wake amp? I think(?) Amp Cont wire is unconnected.

Eonon GA9180a review and questions

Recently installed a GA9180a for my 2010 Chevy
runs really nice out the box, start up time is around 20 seconds or less
i'm getting some serious electrical interference noise once the car is started and increases with rpm, if the car is off I do not hear it, I believe this is a known issue with the fm antenna adapter. I bought a fm antenna noise filter to fix this hopefully.
ok google commands work well, I was wondering if theres a way to make phone calls, if I tell google to call...it will not dial out just show a phone logo with the contacts name, has anyone been successful with this?
also, want to remove the wire so while reversing audio will not be cut out, i think its an orange wire
anyone know of the standby mode as well, so the unit does not shut off completely when off?
also, need help with and looking to add my OEM GM reverse camera and have to splice into lines
looking to use the stock GM male mini USB adapter to connect to the back of this unit, so the usb in my center console can charge devices

To the poster above me, theres a setting under the CAR category to enable audio while reversing - you shouldnt need to cut any wires.
I bought this same head unit back in may and im just now getting around to installing it into a 2010 silverado without the factory bose option. The instructions that came with it are a joke. On bluetooth only, theres alternator whine thats easy to hear at higher volume levels and BT audio causes the pillar tweeters to clip/crackle/cutout at certain frequencies. This is more pronounced on rock music with drum cymbals, like most five finger death punch tracks. Funny thing is, that completely goes away when listening to the FM radio or any of the apps on the device like spotify. This is tolerable since the only thing i use BT for is making calls through my phone. Phone calls are not so demanding in the quality department and honestly i can live with it.
What im having the worst luck with is the backup camera. Ive got a backup camera hooked to it using the included 'cam' yellow RCA connector. Ive only connected it for testing at this point and with it getting a solid 12v supply right off the battery, its not working with the head unit. The head unit successfully detects reverse and switches to the camera display, but the screen stays black and theres a yellow diamond with an exclamation point at the center of the screen. Switching to any other gear or back to park returns the head unit to whatever screen it was on before. I checked the camera on another screen and it displays fine. Prior to that, I checked the inline fuse and replaced it just to be sure. Ive already gone through the settings in the head unit itself, video while moving is turned on.
Ive read/seen other people with similar head units (joying, etc) having to disconnect an 'orange wire' from the back of the head unit to get backup video to work correctly. HOWEVER, there are only 2 wires going to my head unit that are orange, one is orange/white and handles illumination while the other is orange/black and handles the reverse signal from the vehicle itself. I disconnected the orange/black wire just to see if that was it. It was not. With this wire disconnected the head unit no longer detected when the vehicle was in reverse and the screen never changed when i put the vehicle into reverse.
At this point im thinking theres gotta be a firmware bug, hardware failure on my particular unit or im doing something wrong. The vehicle-radio harness that came with it is plug and play. The camera itself connects with a single RCA plug and has a positive and negative lead for battery power. I dont know WHAT could possibly be connected incorrectly, but its a theory.
My ask here is if anyone has experience with this head unit, or with eonon head units in general. Does anyone have a clue how i could solve this backup camera problem?
FYI:
there is a can bus decoder in the 'plug and play' vehicle-radio harness, disconnecting it causes the head unit to not wake up when the truck turns on.
this is the new and upgraded version from eonon
android 8.0
px5
4gb ram
32gb storage

feellicks said:
My ask here is if anyone has experience with this head unit, or with eonon head units in general. Does anyone have a clue how i could solve this backup camera problem?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just got my unit also and have the exact same problem as you with the reverse camera, also like you i found lots of talk about cutting the orange wire however I wasn't game to do this yet but it seems like that is not the solution.

it sounds like you guys have a OEM back camera and if your backup camera video shows on rear view mirror check this link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iOUzGLevxqU
If your backup camera shows on old OEM radio system, check this link
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EzvycdsdIDA
I did some research but I didn't try it yet. I have backup camera on rear view mirror.

Rear DVD Controls/ DVD Player on 2010 Chevy Avalanche
I recently installed the Eonon GA9180a in my 2010 Chevy Avanlanche with Bose and Rear DVD, first I’m also getting a lot of interference from the radio when the WiFi and Bluetooth are on, wondering if a installing a noise canceling module will fix this? Also I seem to have lost the functions of my rear controls for the DVD players, I’m also wondering if anyone has figured out if this unit allows to watch a movie in the back (rear seat) while listening to music in front main unit?

not sure what you mean by installing a noise cancellation module, i had this unit and I never got the interference noise to go away, I switched a Xtrons unit and it worked well for a couple of months but then the screen went out. I got a replacement but now im getting the same noise interference

Sorry I was talking about a Automotive Noise Suppressor of some sort, just wondering! I really like the deck and features but there are some limitations!

GA9180A
Did you ever get your backup camera to work with the GA9180A?
I have tried it with the regular purple wire "CAN IN" supposed to be "CAM IN". I have tried it as AUXILIARY. I can't get the damn thing to work.
I installed a pumpkin brand in my buick and I had to build my own harness and I got it working first try. This eonon plug and play unit is not working.
If you have it working could you please let me know how. It would be awesome with pictures.
I have the factory bose. I found that ebay instructions were better than Amazon instructions.
They have the purple "CAN IN" plugged into a video out. I don't know why. I would assume that a large number of people are installing a camera and would need to connect the CAM IN into the RCA coming from the camera.
This is the most frustrating install ever. The amazon seller doesn't understand I want a working backup camera.
Eonon says it should work. Nothing more.
Thanks,
Chad

I own a 2013 Silverado with the same radio. The fix is simple.
Engine noise fix.
Take about 6 inches of copper wire. Wrap it around the Sub rca (Blue) coming out the back of the harness and ground it to a screw on the radio. (I drew a red line in the picture showing how to fix it)
If your camera is not working you might have it in the correct rca but the harness might be in the wrong place. the camera wire harness fits into 2 spots on the back of the radio. make sure you put it in the correct slot. look at the picture i posted for your engine noise issue and the correct spot for the harness.
GonzoBean what kind of radio did you have before? if you had a cheap factory radio the basic one chevy gives there is a little more work to get the backup camera to work. Thats if you have a factory backup camera already installed that goes to the mirror. you need to tap into the signal.
**Edit**
2nd picture is for proper wire harness install for bose system.

GA9180A
BIG Thanks for the grounding tip and for the diagram. I am installing a new camera so the feed is coming from the new camera, not the existing wiring harness.
I have tried connecting the camera RCA feed to the "CAN IN" eonon typo should read "CAM IN". The headunit detects when I am in reverse and I get yellow ! triangle.
I have tried connecting the camera RCA feed to the "AUX IN" and then open the "AUX IN" app and I get the yellow ! triangle.
I have tried 2 different backup camera's.
Surely someone has installed a new camera to this unit. Eonon has not been helpful.
Thoughts? Ideas?
Thanks,
Chad
KidGixxer said:
I own a 2013 Silverado with the same radio. The fix is simple.
Engine noise fix.
Take about 6 inches of copper wire. Wrap it around the Sub rca (Blue) coming out the back of the harness and ground it to a screw on the radio. (I drew a red line in the picture showing how to fix it)
If your camera is not working you might have it in the correct rca but the harness might be in the wrong place. the camera wire harness fits into 2 spots on the back of the radio. make sure you put it in the correct slot. look at the picture i posted for your engine noise issue and the correct spot for the harness.
GonzoBean what kind of radio did you have before? if you had a cheap factory radio the basic one chevy gives there is a little more work to get the backup camera to work. Thats if you have a factory backup camera already installed that goes to the mirror. you need to tap into the signal.
**Edit**
2nd picture is for proper wire harness install for bose system.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

This image shows which wire is the rear camera in and where the harness should be plugged into.
Did you hook the camera up? rca from camera to radio. Power to reverse light?
Did you go into car settings on radio? code 126 and make sure rudder is on.
Ill be in and out of here all day. So we can get this problem solved for you.

The camera has power it is connected to backup lights. I tried 2 different cameras.
From your picture I have rca plug 10 connected to my backup camera's rca feed. Why is it necessary to plug 11 to 12, 13 to 14, 15 to 16 or is it?
I have also tried my backup camera feed to the AUX IN and use the AUX IN app also without any luck. I had to wire a power line for that test.
Thanks KidGixxer, I was out of town today, but will check into "rudder is on".
I will let you know what I find about "rudder is on"
KidGixxer said:
This image shows which wire is the rear camera in and where the harness should be plugged into.
Did you hook the camera up? rca from camera to radio. Power to reverse light?
Did you go into car settings on radio? code 126 and make sure rudder is on.
Ill be in and out of here all day. So we can get this problem solved for you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Hello. Same issue as the above posters. I made sure rudder was on and still a failed camera feed with the exclamation point triangle.

The option right above Rudder is what you need to check.
Its called "Prohibit Reverse" Make sure that is off.
And make sure your camera mode is set to "F-CAM"

KidGixxer said:
The option right above Rudder is what you need to check.
Its called "Prohibit Reverse" Make sure that is off.
And make sure your camera mode is set to "F-CAM"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So I put the "Prohibit Reverse" toggled to off which was default to off. With the cam set to F-Cam. I still have the yellow/red/green grid with a blacked out screen when I go to reverse. Anyone else have this same issue?

Antabolic said:
So I put the "Prohibit Reverse" toggled to off which was default to off. With the cam set to F-Cam. I still have the yellow/red/green grid with a blacked out screen when I go to reverse. Anyone else have this same issue?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you're seeing the green yellow red grid it might be an issue with the camera itself. If the camera was not hooked up you would get a yellow triangle with an exclamation point.

KidGixxer said:
If you're seeing the green yellow red grid it might be an issue with the camera itself. If the camera was not hooked up you would get a yellow triangle with an exclamation point.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It also does that as well. At random it seems, going back and forth between the grid and the triangle

I haven't got the camera issue as I ended up going with an aftermarket reverse camera, but I have an annoying issue with background noise/static.
It seems to be similar to the computer generated noise that cheap/early sound cards had in the background. It's enough to be noticeable if the car is idling and the volume is very low.
It doesn't get worse with speed, it is just a constant background static that seems to be computer generated.
I tried wrapping some shielding around the audio cables, but this made no difference. Grounded the headunit directly to the chasis with copper wire, made next to no difference.
Any ideas on the noise would be appreciated.

To the people that still have camera issues. are you using the factory camera that came with your vehicle. Or an aftermarket brand. If its aftermarket the camera might be bad. or bad wiring.(Did you wire the power source to the reverse light and not the brake light. also the camera wont turn on if you e brake is engaged.)
If you are using a factory camera you cant go by the wiring that the manual that comes with the radio says. It wrong. you will need to get a rca cable and cut one side and tap into 2 wires by the bcm near the gas/brake pedals.
aust_white said:
Grounded the headunit directly to the chasis with copper wire, made next to no difference.
Any ideas on the noise would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That only helps with engine noise.
Turn off Bluetooth and WiFi on the radio and you will hear that the static is gone. There is currently no fix for this.
We were discussing this in this post.
This post to be more specific.
We were looking into rerouting the wires inside this radio. The Bluetooth wire is taped to the top of the am/FM receiver and the WiFi wire route near it as well.
I was going to redo the wiring in my radio but haven't had the time.

KidGixxer said:
To the people that still have camera issues. are you using the factory camera that came with your vehicle. Or an aftermarket brand. If its aftermarket the camera might be bad. or bad wiring.(Did you wire the power source to the reverse light and not the brake light. also the camera wont turn on if you e brake is engaged.)
If you are using a factory camera you cant go by the wiring that the manual that comes with the radio says. It wrong. you will need to get a rca cable and cut one side and tap into 2 wires by the bcm near the gas/brake pedals.
That only helps with engine noise.
Turn off Bluetooth and WiFi on the radio and you will hear that the static is gone. There is currently no fix for this.
We were discussing this in this post.
This post to be more specific.
We were looking into rerouting the wires inside this radio. The Bluetooth wire is taped to the top of the am/FM receiver and the WiFi wire route near it as well.
I was going to redo the wiring in my radio but haven't had the time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately the noise on my unit seems unrelated to Bluetooth or WiFi.
I'll keep digging.
Thanks for your help.

Removing interference

Just thought I’d do a quick write up of how I have today got rid of a bit of interference noise/alternator whine I had on my Audi A3 with Bose and a PX5 Android 8 unit.
It wasn’t a massive nuisance but when the volume was down and you revved the car you could hear it through the speakers.
On the Audi forum everybody that has the Bose system and one of these Chinese android units seemingly gets this problem, some people use noise filters or noise suppressors which does get rid of the problem but it also reduces the quality of your sound.
So today I had some ferrite filters laying about that I had previously bought for something else and thought I would use them on the power cables to the headunit. The A3 has a quadlock connector and then obviously there is the loom that comes with the headunit to plug into the quadlock connector from the headunit.
I used 3 of these ferrite filters altogether. One on the yellow cable from the battery, one on the acc cable and one on the ground cable. I have placed these on each of the cables directly behind the connector that plugs into the headunit so I have placed them on the cables before they split off to other sources.
I then rested the unit back in the dash and started the car and I have perfect sound and have lost no sound quality, if anything it is now better as there is no interference.
If you’re not sure what a ferrite filter is then just type it into eBay or something, they just clip onto the cable and have a magnet inside which draws out the interference and are very cheap. You might have seen them before on power cables or some company’s use them on hdmi cables.
I’d advise anyone to try this that has any alternator whine with one of these android units and especially if you have a factory fitted amp and sub like the Bose ones.

Not working for me
ab1702 said:
Just thought I’d do a quick write up of how I have today got rid of a bit of interference noise/alternator whine I had on my Audi A3 with Bose and a PX5 Android 8 unit.
It wasn’t a massive nuisance but when the volume was down and you revved the car you could hear it through the speakers.
On the Audi forum everybody that has the Bose system and one of these Chinese android units seemingly gets this problem, some people use noise filters or noise suppressors which does get rid of the problem but it also reduces the quality of your sound.
So today I had some ferrite filters laying about that I had previously bought for something else and thought I would use them on the power cables to the headunit. The A3 has a quadlock connector and then obviously there is the loom that comes with the headunit to plug into the quadlock connector from the headunit.
I used 3 of these ferrite filters altogether. One on the yellow cable from the battery, one on the acc cable and one on the ground cable. I have placed these on each of the cables directly behind the connector that plugs into the headunit so I have placed them on the cables before they split off to other sources.
I then rested the unit back in the dash and started the car and I have perfect sound and have lost no sound quality, if anything it is now better as there is no interference.
If you’re not sure what a ferrite filter is then just type it into eBay or something, they just clip onto the cable and have a magnet inside which draws out the interference and are very cheap. You might have seen them before on power cables or some company’s use them on hdmi cables.
I’d advise anyone to try this that has any alternator whine with one of these android units and especially if you have a factory fitted amp and sub like the Bose ones.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought a pack of these from Amazon. In addition to putting one on BATT, ACC, and GND, I sprinkled the ferrite beads onto entire wire bundles and audio signal wires like it was Mardi Gras. The sound was not noticeable when the head unit was sitting on the dash as I installed the beads, but it was there when I reinstalled it into the dash. Still RPM-dependent.

jeffreydbrown said:
I bought a pack of these from Amazon. In addition to putting one on BATT, ACC, and GND, I sprinkled the ferrite beads onto entire wire bundles and audio signal wires like it was Mardi Gras. The sound was not noticeable when the head unit was sitting on the dash as I installed the beads, but it was there when I reinstalled it into the dash. Still RPM-dependent.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey,
I have the same problem. Tried the ground loop isolators - the interference is gone but no bass at all. The ferrite filters didn't work. Does anyone have solution for this ?
Thanks

Hello, sorry for bringing back an older thread but I am currently working to fix this issue myself.
I had alternator whine to begin with and the ground loop isolators sorted that but mfilip, I have no bass at all and the sound quality isn’t all that great.
I have tried some Line-Out Converters and they did nothing but make the problem worse. I am going to get some Ferrite Cores and try them too.
The Bose system worked spot on so I know it’s capable, but something just isn’t right. However years ago I retrofitted an RNS-E in place of an Concert head unit and had this alternator whine, it turned out this was because the Bose pin was not connected correctly. Once I moved this pin to the correct location it worked perfectly, but I can’t seem to understand what to do with this pin with the android head unit as there is no where for it to go?

No Amp control output

I have a new Android head unit but once I installed it I am getting no sound. Investigating the problem I found that the Amp control wire was not going high (12v) and therefore there is no sound as the amps aren't activated.
I believe this is a software problem since the Amp control pin is not completely open. Also I noticed that the sound control page is not complete as there is not any controls for balance or fade.
I do not have any tech support for this item but need to find a way to fix the software load.
The unit is a 7089C unit running Android 8.1, installed in a C6 Corvette.
Software load:
Android: YT9213A_00009_V001_20191126
XY Auto: 3.1
Gerbil

Would installing a different launcher possible solve this problem?

No, the MCU is what controls that function. An MCU update could fix the problem if it is a software issue. I don't know how you tested the control pin but short of hooking up an oscilloscope to it you can't really tell what is on it. It could be a resistive or broken solder joint that kills the output. MTC units have a setting to use factory amp maybe yours has something like that.

nic2k said:
No, the MCU is what controls that function. An MCU update could fix the problem if it is a software issue. I don't know how you tested the control pin but short of hooking up an oscilloscope to it you can't really tell what is on it. It could be a resistive or broken solder joint that kills the output. MTC units have a setting to use factory amp maybe yours has something like that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the response.
I just read the output of the pin with a meter. It did not read zero but did not register over 1vdc though. Because there was a little something there I assume the connections are complete in the head unit but I suppose I could be reading into the radio harness adapter unit. I have not thought of trying to see what I would see with the scope.
My next step to try is to put a 12vdc on the amp control line to see if the head unit is actually putting out sound. I am also going to see if the unit can be returned for replacement.
I've never had this happen like this before.