Eonon GA9180a review and questions - Android Head-Units
Recently installed a GA9180a for my 2010 Chevy
runs really nice out the box, start up time is around 20 seconds or less
i'm getting some serious electrical interference noise once the car is started and increases with rpm, if the car is off I do not hear it, I believe this is a known issue with the fm antenna adapter. I bought a fm antenna noise filter to fix this hopefully.
ok google commands work well, I was wondering if theres a way to make phone calls, if I tell google to call...it will not dial out just show a phone logo with the contacts name, has anyone been successful with this?
also, want to remove the wire so while reversing audio will not be cut out, i think its an orange wire
anyone know of the standby mode as well, so the unit does not shut off completely when off?
also, need help with and looking to add my OEM GM reverse camera and have to splice into lines
looking to use the stock GM male mini USB adapter to connect to the back of this unit, so the usb in my center console can charge devices
To the poster above me, theres a setting under the CAR category to enable audio while reversing - you shouldnt need to cut any wires.
I bought this same head unit back in may and im just now getting around to installing it into a 2010 silverado without the factory bose option. The instructions that came with it are a joke. On bluetooth only, theres alternator whine thats easy to hear at higher volume levels and BT audio causes the pillar tweeters to clip/crackle/cutout at certain frequencies. This is more pronounced on rock music with drum cymbals, like most five finger death punch tracks. Funny thing is, that completely goes away when listening to the FM radio or any of the apps on the device like spotify. This is tolerable since the only thing i use BT for is making calls through my phone. Phone calls are not so demanding in the quality department and honestly i can live with it.
What im having the worst luck with is the backup camera. Ive got a backup camera hooked to it using the included 'cam' yellow RCA connector. Ive only connected it for testing at this point and with it getting a solid 12v supply right off the battery, its not working with the head unit. The head unit successfully detects reverse and switches to the camera display, but the screen stays black and theres a yellow diamond with an exclamation point at the center of the screen. Switching to any other gear or back to park returns the head unit to whatever screen it was on before. I checked the camera on another screen and it displays fine. Prior to that, I checked the inline fuse and replaced it just to be sure. Ive already gone through the settings in the head unit itself, video while moving is turned on.
Ive read/seen other people with similar head units (joying, etc) having to disconnect an 'orange wire' from the back of the head unit to get backup video to work correctly. HOWEVER, there are only 2 wires going to my head unit that are orange, one is orange/white and handles illumination while the other is orange/black and handles the reverse signal from the vehicle itself. I disconnected the orange/black wire just to see if that was it. It was not. With this wire disconnected the head unit no longer detected when the vehicle was in reverse and the screen never changed when i put the vehicle into reverse.
At this point im thinking theres gotta be a firmware bug, hardware failure on my particular unit or im doing something wrong. The vehicle-radio harness that came with it is plug and play. The camera itself connects with a single RCA plug and has a positive and negative lead for battery power. I dont know WHAT could possibly be connected incorrectly, but its a theory.
My ask here is if anyone has experience with this head unit, or with eonon head units in general. Does anyone have a clue how i could solve this backup camera problem?
FYI:
there is a can bus decoder in the 'plug and play' vehicle-radio harness, disconnecting it causes the head unit to not wake up when the truck turns on.
this is the new and upgraded version from eonon
android 8.0
px5
4gb ram
32gb storage
feellicks said:
My ask here is if anyone has experience with this head unit, or with eonon head units in general. Does anyone have a clue how i could solve this backup camera problem?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just got my unit also and have the exact same problem as you with the reverse camera, also like you i found lots of talk about cutting the orange wire however I wasn't game to do this yet but it seems like that is not the solution.
it sounds like you guys have a OEM back camera and if your backup camera video shows on rear view mirror check this link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iOUzGLevxqU
If your backup camera shows on old OEM radio system, check this link
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EzvycdsdIDA
I did some research but I didn't try it yet. I have backup camera on rear view mirror.
Rear DVD Controls/ DVD Player on 2010 Chevy Avalanche
I recently installed the Eonon GA9180a in my 2010 Chevy Avanlanche with Bose and Rear DVD, first I’m also getting a lot of interference from the radio when the WiFi and Bluetooth are on, wondering if a installing a noise canceling module will fix this? Also I seem to have lost the functions of my rear controls for the DVD players, I’m also wondering if anyone has figured out if this unit allows to watch a movie in the back (rear seat) while listening to music in front main unit?
not sure what you mean by installing a noise cancellation module, i had this unit and I never got the interference noise to go away, I switched a Xtrons unit and it worked well for a couple of months but then the screen went out. I got a replacement but now im getting the same noise interference
Sorry I was talking about a Automotive Noise Suppressor of some sort, just wondering! I really like the deck and features but there are some limitations!
GA9180A
Did you ever get your backup camera to work with the GA9180A?
I have tried it with the regular purple wire "CAN IN" supposed to be "CAM IN". I have tried it as AUXILIARY. I can't get the damn thing to work.
I installed a pumpkin brand in my buick and I had to build my own harness and I got it working first try. This eonon plug and play unit is not working.
If you have it working could you please let me know how. It would be awesome with pictures.
I have the factory bose. I found that ebay instructions were better than Amazon instructions.
They have the purple "CAN IN" plugged into a video out. I don't know why. I would assume that a large number of people are installing a camera and would need to connect the CAM IN into the RCA coming from the camera.
This is the most frustrating install ever. The amazon seller doesn't understand I want a working backup camera.
Eonon says it should work. Nothing more.
Thanks,
Chad
I own a 2013 Silverado with the same radio. The fix is simple.
Engine noise fix.
Take about 6 inches of copper wire. Wrap it around the Sub rca (Blue) coming out the back of the harness and ground it to a screw on the radio. (I drew a red line in the picture showing how to fix it)
If your camera is not working you might have it in the correct rca but the harness might be in the wrong place. the camera wire harness fits into 2 spots on the back of the radio. make sure you put it in the correct slot. look at the picture i posted for your engine noise issue and the correct spot for the harness.
GonzoBean what kind of radio did you have before? if you had a cheap factory radio the basic one chevy gives there is a little more work to get the backup camera to work. Thats if you have a factory backup camera already installed that goes to the mirror. you need to tap into the signal.
**Edit**
2nd picture is for proper wire harness install for bose system.
GA9180A
BIG Thanks for the grounding tip and for the diagram. I am installing a new camera so the feed is coming from the new camera, not the existing wiring harness.
I have tried connecting the camera RCA feed to the "CAN IN" eonon typo should read "CAM IN". The headunit detects when I am in reverse and I get yellow ! triangle.
I have tried connecting the camera RCA feed to the "AUX IN" and then open the "AUX IN" app and I get the yellow ! triangle.
I have tried 2 different backup camera's.
Surely someone has installed a new camera to this unit. Eonon has not been helpful.
Thoughts? Ideas?
Thanks,
Chad
KidGixxer said:
I own a 2013 Silverado with the same radio. The fix is simple.
Engine noise fix.
Take about 6 inches of copper wire. Wrap it around the Sub rca (Blue) coming out the back of the harness and ground it to a screw on the radio. (I drew a red line in the picture showing how to fix it)
If your camera is not working you might have it in the correct rca but the harness might be in the wrong place. the camera wire harness fits into 2 spots on the back of the radio. make sure you put it in the correct slot. look at the picture i posted for your engine noise issue and the correct spot for the harness.
GonzoBean what kind of radio did you have before? if you had a cheap factory radio the basic one chevy gives there is a little more work to get the backup camera to work. Thats if you have a factory backup camera already installed that goes to the mirror. you need to tap into the signal.
**Edit**
2nd picture is for proper wire harness install for bose system.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This image shows which wire is the rear camera in and where the harness should be plugged into.
Did you hook the camera up? rca from camera to radio. Power to reverse light?
Did you go into car settings on radio? code 126 and make sure rudder is on.
Ill be in and out of here all day. So we can get this problem solved for you.
The camera has power it is connected to backup lights. I tried 2 different cameras.
From your picture I have rca plug 10 connected to my backup camera's rca feed. Why is it necessary to plug 11 to 12, 13 to 14, 15 to 16 or is it?
I have also tried my backup camera feed to the AUX IN and use the AUX IN app also without any luck. I had to wire a power line for that test.
Thanks KidGixxer, I was out of town today, but will check into "rudder is on".
I will let you know what I find about "rudder is on"
KidGixxer said:
This image shows which wire is the rear camera in and where the harness should be plugged into.
Did you hook the camera up? rca from camera to radio. Power to reverse light?
Did you go into car settings on radio? code 126 and make sure rudder is on.
Ill be in and out of here all day. So we can get this problem solved for you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello. Same issue as the above posters. I made sure rudder was on and still a failed camera feed with the exclamation point triangle.
The option right above Rudder is what you need to check.
Its called "Prohibit Reverse" Make sure that is off.
And make sure your camera mode is set to "F-CAM"
KidGixxer said:
The option right above Rudder is what you need to check.
Its called "Prohibit Reverse" Make sure that is off.
And make sure your camera mode is set to "F-CAM"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So I put the "Prohibit Reverse" toggled to off which was default to off. With the cam set to F-Cam. I still have the yellow/red/green grid with a blacked out screen when I go to reverse. Anyone else have this same issue?
Antabolic said:
So I put the "Prohibit Reverse" toggled to off which was default to off. With the cam set to F-Cam. I still have the yellow/red/green grid with a blacked out screen when I go to reverse. Anyone else have this same issue?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you're seeing the green yellow red grid it might be an issue with the camera itself. If the camera was not hooked up you would get a yellow triangle with an exclamation point.
KidGixxer said:
If you're seeing the green yellow red grid it might be an issue with the camera itself. If the camera was not hooked up you would get a yellow triangle with an exclamation point.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It also does that as well. At random it seems, going back and forth between the grid and the triangle
I haven't got the camera issue as I ended up going with an aftermarket reverse camera, but I have an annoying issue with background noise/static.
It seems to be similar to the computer generated noise that cheap/early sound cards had in the background. It's enough to be noticeable if the car is idling and the volume is very low.
It doesn't get worse with speed, it is just a constant background static that seems to be computer generated.
I tried wrapping some shielding around the audio cables, but this made no difference. Grounded the headunit directly to the chasis with copper wire, made next to no difference.
Any ideas on the noise would be appreciated.
To the people that still have camera issues. are you using the factory camera that came with your vehicle. Or an aftermarket brand. If its aftermarket the camera might be bad. or bad wiring.(Did you wire the power source to the reverse light and not the brake light. also the camera wont turn on if you e brake is engaged.)
If you are using a factory camera you cant go by the wiring that the manual that comes with the radio says. It wrong. you will need to get a rca cable and cut one side and tap into 2 wires by the bcm near the gas/brake pedals.
aust_white said:
Grounded the headunit directly to the chasis with copper wire, made next to no difference.
Any ideas on the noise would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That only helps with engine noise.
Turn off Bluetooth and WiFi on the radio and you will hear that the static is gone. There is currently no fix for this.
We were discussing this in this post.
This post to be more specific.
We were looking into rerouting the wires inside this radio. The Bluetooth wire is taped to the top of the am/FM receiver and the WiFi wire route near it as well.
I was going to redo the wiring in my radio but haven't had the time.
KidGixxer said:
To the people that still have camera issues. are you using the factory camera that came with your vehicle. Or an aftermarket brand. If its aftermarket the camera might be bad. or bad wiring.(Did you wire the power source to the reverse light and not the brake light. also the camera wont turn on if you e brake is engaged.)
If you are using a factory camera you cant go by the wiring that the manual that comes with the radio says. It wrong. you will need to get a rca cable and cut one side and tap into 2 wires by the bcm near the gas/brake pedals.
That only helps with engine noise.
Turn off Bluetooth and WiFi on the radio and you will hear that the static is gone. There is currently no fix for this.
We were discussing this in this post.
This post to be more specific.
We were looking into rerouting the wires inside this radio. The Bluetooth wire is taped to the top of the am/FM receiver and the WiFi wire route near it as well.
I was going to redo the wiring in my radio but haven't had the time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately the noise on my unit seems unrelated to Bluetooth or WiFi.
I'll keep digging.
Thanks for your help.
Related
Using the video in on Joying sofia 2-din unit
I have split my reversing camera with a "Y" cable so one feeds the normal reversing camera in floating socket so it works like a normal reversing camera-it starts up when reverse is engaged, the other I have plugged into the Video-In socket on the rear. I want this because I have in the space of 12 months had 2 new cars written off by other idiot drivers, luckily I had a dashcam with front and rear cameras which plainly showed I was blameless, even stationary for the first accident. I vowed never to buy another new car as the trauma of losing my babies is just too much! So I got an old VW EOS, a 2007 model, and there is nowhere to fit a rear camera in this hard-top convertible. The only app that I have so far found to work with this arrangement is the "AUX" stock application-this works well, but it captures the audio channel too so the radio and music applications are muted. Has anybody come across an app which can monitor this Video-In socket-they all seem dead set on usb cameras. Cheers, Tony.
vidtek said: I have split my reversing camera with a "Y" cable so one feeds the normal reversing camera in floating socket so it works like a normal reversing camera-it starts up when reverse is engaged, the other I have plugged into the Video-In socket on the rear. I want this because I have in the space of 12 months had 2 new cars written off by other idiot drivers, luckily I had a dashcam with front and rear cameras which plainly showed I was blameless, even stationary for the first accident. I vowed never to buy another new car as the trauma of losing my babies is just too much! So I got an old VW EOS, a 2007 model, and there is nowhere to fit a rear camera in this hard-top convertible. The only app that I have so far found to work with this arrangement is the "AUX" stock application-this works well, but it captures the audio channel too so the radio and music applications are muted. Has anybody come across an app which can monitor this Video-In socket-they all seem dead set on usb cameras. Cheers, Tony. Click to expand... Click to collapse The custom ROM has the right camera app that supports this. Video only. Why don't you get the camera that fits in the VW emblem??
gtxaspec said: The custom ROM has the right camera app that supports this. Video only. Why don't you get the camera that fits in the VW emblem?? Click to expand... Click to collapse Thanks for this, do you know the name of the app please? With the number plate camera, it is: a) far easier to fit, especially as my rear mudguard is cut where my removable tow-hitch sits, wiring is a doddle. b) The emblem camera it sits so high, my wife's cat would probably not be visible, it has a habit of sitting just underneath the mudguard. c) Much less expensive. Cheers, Tony.
Xtrons D719AS rear view camera problems
After losing the will with my other Xtrons units you'd think i'd have learned, still my car needed a sat nav and the D719as HU was as cheap as many of the sat nav units on offer here in the UK and i got music, BT, etc into the bargain. FWIW the installation was painless, pretty much unplugged the old and plugged in the new, alls great and then decided to fit a rear view camera in the bumper/fender. This camera has the long cable with yellow rca connectors & red tails either end so connected the HU end to the pink 'reverse' cable and rca connection and (with the help of my cars wiring diagram) wired the other end of the rca cables red tail and the positive of the camera tail to the reverse light and grounded it to the ground pin in the boot/trunk. Surprise surprise put it in gear - nothing, checked all connections, tried a different camera, different rca cable and still nothing. I've been into 'Extra Settings' and theres so many things i could change i dont know where to begin. Curiously there's one obvious one that says 'disable reverse video' : open/ close i presume this is a translation error? 'Open' meaning 'Yes' and 'Close' meaning 'No'. I've tried setting it to both and still nothing. Any help much appreciated. Roger
PX5 weird buzz from rear speakers
I have a joying 4gb/32gb unit for chrysler/wrangler that i just installed a few weeks ago. I have been loving it but suddenly today the rear speakers are making a weird buzzing. When i mute the audio it stops. It happens in z-link and the native radio app. I did recently disassemble it to add rear video monitors but dont have them hooked up yet. Any ideas what is causing and how to fix? It isnt low either its a low buzz and it comes and goes.
If the unit has WiFi built in, that's usually the culprit. Try to move closer to the router or turn off WiFi if you're not using it. Otherwise it might be ground feedback, Walmart has these noise isolation type things that slide on/clip to the wires near the speaker. They're basically just magnets, so you might find something around the house you can use to save the trip. Make sure the radio antenna is firmly pressed in the unit and isn't loose on the car body. Check all your grounds for loose wires or add a braided ground cable from the unit body to a metal component in the dash that is grounded to the chassis "BE CAREFUL NOT TO interfere/ obstruct or otherwise use anything near or connected to any airbag components" and if you cut and spliced the original wiring instead of using an adapter, check your speaker polarity at the unit and make sure you've matched the impedance of the speakers to the unit.
Sound dies when turning on head lights!
After my car had been unused for a couple of months I got this strange problem. I realize that it might be a hardware fault, but maybe there is some clever solution to override it. I have always had a small "pop" when turning on the head lights, but now the sound completely dies too. No sound from FM radio or any other music app. But if I put the head unit in standby and then turn it on the sound is back. Also if I turn mute ON I can hear the sound very, very quiet, but if I turn mute OFF the sound is gone again. I have tried different MCUs, stock Android 9 and 10, and Malaysk 10, no difference. I have tried to turn brightness adjustment off in MCU settings, instead of being controlled by the head lights. My head unit is a PX6 MTCE with MTCE_CHS 3.75 MCU. The head unit is connected to OEM amplifier through fiber optic converter. Any ideas what to try next? I am very thankful for any input.
I'd check the optical signal remains when the headlights are on. That will confirm it is nothing downstream of that. I'd also be checking the voltage drop at the car battery when the lights are turned on. That will give an indication about the *possibility* of the head unit or a specific component of the HU going into a safety mode due to low juice. Does the same thing happen when just the parking lights rather than the full headlights go on? Report back on voltage and draw at the car battery if you can and go from there.
Thank you for your input. I have checked the voltage drop when turning on the headlights, and it's just about 0,1 - 0, 2 V. Just turning on the parking lights does not kill the sound. When I start the car I have a much bigger drop, and it doesn't affect the sound, as long as the head lights are turned off. Since I can hear the sound with really low volume when mute is on, I guess that means that the fiber optic converter works.
You mentioned in your original post that you still had some sound on mute.. agreed with you - wine last night confused me. You don't say was the voltage actually drops to, just the amount it drops by. But if the car starts, you may assume that it is not charge. I'm guessing the wrong car is chosen via software for the Canbus. Maybe you can offer more details. That sort of info is free and can help others. Actual voltage Car type, model and year Current canbus car choice in setup Anything else non standard Any non standard connections to the wiring looms.
ludditefornow said: You mentioned in your original post that you still had some sound on mute.. agreed with you - wine last night confused me. You don't say was the voltage actually drops to, just the amount it drops by. But if the car starts, you may assume that it is not charge. I'm guessing the wrong car is chosen via software for the Canbus. Maybe you can offer more details. That sort of info is free and can help others. Actual voltage Car type, model and year Current canbus car choice in setup Anything else non standard Any non standard connections to the wiring looms. Click to expand... Click to collapse Thanks for your suggestions! I have done some more troubleshooting and now I am thinking that it's more likely to be some kind of grounding issue (or a bad mainboard) than a canbus problem. Because sometimes when I plug in an USB drive or an USB cable (not connected to anything) there is a "bang" and the sound dies, as it does when turning on the head lights. I made a new grounding wire and mounted it directly to a ground point in the car chassis, instead of using the one from the OEM cable harness., but no difference. Car on or off does not matter and I also tried with an power supply connected to the car battery. Should I try to ground the head unit better and where to put the wire then? Would the head unit chassis be enough or is it necessary to open it up and connect it somewhere on the mainboard?
I'd be disconnecting as much as possible and just feeding a power ground and an ACC feed. Hook up speakers only and see what the result is. Add one component at a time and test again. Might be easier to check initially out of the car and using a constant 12v power source or even an old PC ATX PSU. They have 12v and 5v rails. I don't think adding more ground will change much.
ludditefornow said: I'd be disconnecting as much as possible and just feeding a power ground and an ACC feed. Hook up speakers only and see what the result is. Add one component at a time and test again. Might be easier to check initially out of the car and using a constant 12v power source or even an old PC ATX PSU. They have 12v and 5v rails. I don't think adding more ground will change much. Click to expand... Click to collapse I tried this yesterday, but with the head unit still in the car. Disconnected everything but the fiber optics converter and power. I had no problems when turning on the head lights, I tried many times. Sound did not die. Still some weird sounds when using USB drive though. I made an extra wire from the ground wire and mounted it at one of the screws at the back of the head unit. I connected everything back except the FM antenna connector. I suspected it could be interfering because the amplified OEM FM antenna is connected to a control unit in the car which is also managing car lights. After this I had no problems at all for the rest of the evening. Tried turning on the head lights when driving and with the engine off. Plugged in USB drive and USB cable. Sound dit not die and no noise when using USB. Today the problem with dying sound when turning on head lights was back. My feeling is that this issue is much more likely to happen when the head unit (and the car) is cold. If the car has been driven so the temperature inside is around 20 degrees for a period of time, or if it has been standing in the sun so the interior is warm, it is very rare that turning on the head lights affects the sound.
Belsee android 10 head unit.
Hi. I'm quite new in this adventure (LOL) I have a Belsee android 10 head unit connected to my sound system in a car with DSP and aftermarket amps and speakers (Mazda 6 2017) a couple of things annoy me and I would like to ask how can I improve the android to work better? Which app I should install it? Also, have a problem. Sometimes it freezes and has to restart it. When I turn on the HU the original software is frozen for a while before he kicks on! Is there a way to fix this glitch? Also what annoys me very much is when I switch off from the android to the normal Original Mazda mod screen Aux music stop playing. Is there something to avoid this? Also I there anything to have a volume control panel where I can see how much I'm increasing volume? My system is quite loud and I have set the volume to not go above to prevent clipping or distortion and just wanna be safe. Unfortunately, I have to switch to the original OEM from android, the music stops, and then adjust the volume to see what level I am. Also as the original OEM use a bose amp and now is obviously replaced with aftermarket amps i can't figure out why is my radio and CD/DVD player quieter then AUX output..Anyone knows, please? I would really appreciate it if someone can give me the best tips and apps to improve the HU. Thank you!!!
I also have a belsee android unit (on my mazda 3) with aftermarket subs, tweeters and connected to Bose system that has both the Mazda connect & Android o/s. I have experienced similar problems as you - sometimes the original mazda system takes forever to complete it's boot-up. I did upgrade to Mazda connect firmware 74 and that DID help (system responds faster and voice commands function much better) but it has some issues sometimes with the backup camera for some reason As far as the volume issue, i've found that if i don't use steering wheel control for volume but the knob on the center console i get a visual representation of volume from both sides. You might check to see if your Bose Co-pilot and Centerpoint are disabled. I've found this levels out the volume a little better. Do you have problems switching between the two o/s's - ie it's easy to get back to the mazda system by touching console favorites button or using the CarUI icon but going back to Android by swiping right hand side of screen doesn't work many times?????? I've also found that sometimes the Driver (left) side of audio on AUX cuts out as if it's not there and reserved for the voice warnings that occur and doesn't come back until restarted. Does DSP work for you? I can touch the icon for it, it won't launch for me. Also radio is only available on Mazda side and app not there on android side.
eddotykc said: I also have a belsee android unit (on my mazda 3) with aftermarket subs, tweeters and connected to Bose system that has both the Mazda connect & Android o/s. I have experienced similar problems as you - sometimes the original mazda system takes forever to complete it's boot-up. I did upgrade to Mazda connect firmware 74 and that DID help (system responds faster and voice commands function much better) but it has some issues sometimes with the backup camera for some reason As far as the volume issue, i've found that if i don't use steering wheel control for volume but the knob on the center console i get a visual representation of volume from both sides. You might check to see if your Bose Co-pilot and Centerpoint are disabled. I've found this levels out the volume a little better. Do you have problems switching between the two o/s's - ie it's easy to get back to the mazda system by touching console favorites button or using the CarUI icon but going back to Android by swiping right hand side of screen doesn't work many times?????? I've also found that sometimes the Driver (left) side of audio on AUX cuts out as if it's not there and reserved for the voice warnings that occur and doesn't come back until restarted. Does DSP work for you? I can touch the icon for it, it won't launch for me. Also radio is only available on Mazda side and app not there on android side. Click to expand... Click to collapse Hi.Thanks for your reply. I haven't hope anyone will answer! I would like to update the firmware but I don't know how..Also, I was reading you can jump straight from android 10 to android 12 but i don't know how to. I have still a problem with the reversing camera sometimes.. There is absolutely poor communication with the Chinese..Their English is like hello. connect to the original radio then ok?... So what the hell that means?!!!! Also, does the volume button piss me off? Is there a way somehow with some app to get the volume from the OEM screen to transfer to the android? Also, I have an issue checking the android for clipping by oscilloscope..My focal tweeters sound harsh and sparkling when I increase the volume...I don't know if there has to be a balance between the volume of OEM to volume on AU|X?I ws reading somewhere someone checks the original OEM for clipping and it says there is no clipping on full volume..I have to test it..The problem is I don't know whether to check the voltage from HU before the pre amp or after..I bought an adapter from amazon which on one end is a wire to strip in and another side is RCA female output when I'm running 8 wires into the DSP Focal and then to each amp. About DSP in android ..Do not use this..Its a crap..I tested with a scope. It's clipping like hell and producing a lot of distortion. But my main issue is the correct voltage output from HU because if you set the voltage in DSP software on a computer wrongly you by sending to the amps digital clipping.... About the Radio in android, i have only FM which i don't know why because i purchase DAB and install it..Also the DAB is very weak..it may be because of interference from somewhere.. I have as well the problem with the left door speaker cutting of few times..
Would love to move from android 10 to 12 - have you found firmware file to do it? I actually changed out the back-up camera for a third party model that i can choose from six different views and it works great with both the mazda connect and android. On the distortion issue, have you checked all the wiring behind glove compartment and heat unit to make sure there isn't a wire exposed potentially causing the distortion. I had a problem on the rca going to an under-seat sub sounding like crap until i wrapped the left and right as they came out of the PAC AOEM line-out converter and ensured it ran opposite of power/ground wiring.
I’m not using PAC.you don’t have to because if you measure the output voltage from hu is only between 0.6-0.8v before the factory preamp .after that is 2.4V so I bought on Amazon just adapter which on one end plug wires and other end rca. Then they run in to the dsp. But what really make my piss of is the volume on radio which is very quiet.I try your tactics without result.I don’t know if the Bose amp increase the volume or… other things have you manage to do the big 3 upgrade?at the moment I have 155amp alternator and second battery at the back xs power 3400 .the thing is I can’t connect alternator to battery as it causing charging eloop malfunkcion.it has to be done somehow to pass the sensor but haven’t figure out test.any idea?also charging screen not ready for I start stop -battery .when I disconnect second battery then fine full ready. It’s the upgrade issue alt to battery or alt? If where can I get bigger one ?
Good Morning! I have a 2017 Mazda 6 with Bose system and amp & just installed a Belsee android 10 with dual capability to use my factory infotainment + android. Is this the same one ya’ll have? Im also a novice when it comes to all of this so I’m working with a local car stereo shop to figure it all out. 1) We’re either of ya’ll able to plug in the center control knob? Factory system and original screen both had 4pin plugs, but Android has a proprietary plug with 4pin to plug into original infotainment system, so there are no more 4pin ports. 2) when I plug in the RCA cables I get a background static that doesn’t go away — constantly on once the system boots (and is there when I’m on the OEM and Android). Android side base volume is low and I have to crank volume way up to hear. 3) when using wireless Apple car play on Android side and making calls, the receiver gets a horrible immediate echo of their voice. Not sure of the fix for volume and echo, just thought I’d throw it out here if any of you or those on the forum have similar problems or a solution. Thanks!
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Hello stefanek33! Yes, I did buy from Belsee and have been dealing with Rambo since June troubleshooting the issue. It has been very frustrating and I’ve come to the conclusion in my novice mind that the systems are crap. You confirmed it with your professional work on it! I had to look for something because my factory screen crapped out on me — it was going to be $1500 to replace and was backordered by Mazda with unknown stock date so I went looking and found Belsee. Screen size is great but that’s about it. At this point since the factory works, I’m just going to use the thing for the 10.1” screen and get one of those car link adaptors that does the same (android apps, wireless CarPlay) but run it through the factory part and completely ignore the Belsee android (attached the install document and a picture of the split screen android/factory system). All I need to do is figure out how to plug in the center command knob and they plan will work (I think lol). I’m interested in your suggested fix, but I’m not sure what you mean about the red wire. What is the tau? Do you have a picture example of the wire? I’m sorry — you’re dealing with a complete noob / novice to troubleshooting electronics. Happy holidays!!!
mjs8rkis said: Hello stefanek33! Yes, I did buy from Belsee and have been dealing with Rambo since June troubleshooting the issue. It has been very frustrating and I’ve come to the conclusion in my novice mind that the systems are crap. You confirmed it with your professional work on it! I had to look for something because my factory screen crapped out on me — it was going to be $1500 to replace and was backordered by Mazda with unknown stock date so I went looking and found Belsee. Screen size is great but that’s about it. At this point since the factory works, I’m just going to use the thing for the 10.1” screen and get one of those car link adaptors that does the same (android apps, wireless CarPlay) but run it through the factory part and completely ignore the Belsee android (attached the install document and a picture of the split screen android/factory system). All I need to do is figure out how to plug in the center command knob and they plan will work (I think lol). I’m interested in your suggested fix, but I’m not sure what you mean about the red wire. What is the tau? Do you have a picture example of the wire? I’m sorry — you’re dealing with a complete noob / novice to troubleshooting electronics. Happy holidays!!! Click to expand... Click to collapse TAU = Tuner Amplifier Unit. Google is my friend. I’m getting smarter at this by the day! Lol. It’s one thing to work through good quality products that have diagrams and such … but having to pull teeth to get back one to two liners in broken English is very frustrating. Even more so when they say these units are “plug and play” lol
you should recieve this wire ..then connect it and run the rcaback to the unit and connect it in to the AUx in..The central knob i havent got any wires i just use the factory wire from the Radio and connected to the Android ..It mus fit try...Central knob connect to the original location...I was bit strugling too as later i figure out from the Original OEM you have to dismount the metal Unit and fit the android unit on it..Of course Mr Rambo didnt provide scrwews so i have to use my one...When you instal the Android on the metal OEM part then just run the blue wire from the Android and connect to the Metal Unit and you should be okay..
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Stefanek33 said: you should recieve this wire ..then connect it and run the rcaback to the unit and connect it in to the AUx in..The central knob i havent got any wires i just use the factory wire from the Radio and connected to the Android ..It mus fit try...Central knob connect to the original location...I was bit strugling too as later i figure out from the Original OEM you have to dismount the metal Unit and fit the android unit on it..Of course Mr Rambo didnt provide scrwews so i have to use my one...When you instal the Android on the metal OEM part then just run the blue wire from the Android and connect to the Metal Unit and you should be okay.. Click to expand... Click to collapse Ah yes, received that connector and ran it through to the Aux in on the Android. I have the static and the low volume and echo on Bluetooth/CarPlay calling still. For the center control knob, I have this power/4pin connector (attached pic), and I can connect it to the factory, but then the Android blue cable that connect from Android head unit to that 4pin port won’t connect. Will I still get the factory system to show? I’ll need to extend the cable though to get it to plug into the factory since it won’t reach. Thanks!
The blu cable has nothing to do with the central consol .blue wire from android the second end connect to the metal part of oem.
That’s right. But if I leave blue connected to the metal part of OEM, I have no other place to plug the center console plug. All Rambo told me was to unplug the blue and see what happens lol
I connect the central console back to the OEM metal bracket..I think in my one the 4 pins are positioned on the left back side..How is it look like your metal Bracket from back..Can you make some pic.?
I was able to get the center knob to work! I kept the blue 4 pin cable, but apparently in a previous install the guy helping me ran a separate 8pin cable that didn’t connect to anything, so I found the correct 8pin that is connected to the power cable and it all works. Now I just need to try and solve the echo and static issue. I think if I go the way you did and completely replace the Bose system, it would work — though might end up with the same issue you have. Happy New Year!
How is working aux for you?You have to plug the silly 3.5mm jack in to the aux slot then switch to the Aux on the OEM..When you increase the volume on aux did you hear static noise with or without starting the engine?Please let me know!Its very important!
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Stefanek33 said: If you can please do that .Do not play any music.Just plug in and increase both volumes on max if you hear any hiss or static noise from tweeters etc...The problem is the 3.5mm jack doesn't have close circuit and I wanna find out if this is the main concern causing the issue... Click to expand... Click to collapse So I plugged red/white RCA connector to the R/W RCA inputs on the android. I immediately began hearing static at low to zero volume. I did not have the 24 pin adapter cable even connected to the right door radio plug. I also did not have the 35mm jack in the aux slot. So I had the static then, and the after, when I plugged the adapter in and the 35mm in the aux slot, static was still there, but my volume was very low. Turning up the volume made static even worse. I heard the static both without and with the engine started. Thought it interesting that static started immediately when plugging the RCA male to the RCA inputs on the android and didn’t even have the 24 pin adapter connected.
mjs8rkis said: So I plugged red/white RCA connector to the R/W RCA inputs on the android. I immediately began hearing static at low to zero volume. I did not have the 24 pin adapter cable even connected to the right door radio plug. I also did not have the 35mm jack in the aux slot. So I had the static then, and the after, when I plugged the adapter in and the 35mm in the aux slot, static was still there, but my volume was very low. Turning up the volume made static even worse. I heard the static both without and with the engine started. Thought it interesting that static started immediately when plugging the RCA male to the RCA inputs on the android and didn’t even have the 24 pin adapter connected. Click to expand... Click to collapse Make some short video and upload on vimeo ..We have to do something with it as Rambo wasnt really honest with as.