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I managed to find an E46 SoFIA chip, 2GB RAM, 32GB Flash by Joying, JY-BL121N2 $309
It looks like they are using the old fascia as it has a DVD slot and states the buttons don't work.
Does anybody know which MTC this will be (I have asked but no reply)?
if it is like the 8 inch universal I have, it will not be MTC at all, it will have a super long MCU name, but no mention of MTC, and ends in "Newlap"
Blaze Falconburger said:
I managed to find an E46 SoFIA chip, 2GB RAM, 32GB Flash by Joying, JY-BL121N2 $309
It looks like they are using the old fascia as it has a DVD slot and states the buttons don't work.
Does anybody know which MTC this will be (I have asked but no reply)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Joying units are NOT MTC.
The Joying unit will have an FYT5009 SoM.
Thanks for the help all, ordered will give feedback when I've set it up. Ive done over a month of no music now so almost anything is welcome. Luckily ive been on the train a lot so haven't had to endure the sweet diesel clatter for too long each day!
Any Feedback on this unit? Interested to buy one of these for my E53 X5
Saiyajin said:
Any Feedback on this unit? Interested to buy one of these for my E53 X5
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have one for my E46
What do you want to know?
I'm happy with it, run mostly Waze, and spotify in online/offline mode.
My E46 has one FAKRA connector to the vehicle harness, the provided adapter is a two FAKRA system to the unit with a blue 12V wire (ANT power). This is for older vehicles, with an older antenna amplifier that needs 12V from the radio. connecting the wrong of the identical FAKRA connectors and you have 12V sent back to the amplifier which might destroy it.... I measured so that I connected the right FAKRA connector and did not use the blue 12V cable. Still I have terrible radio reception! So I ordered an extra ANT-208 antenna amplifier, Ill see if it makes a difference when it turns up.
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And I also ordered a single FAKRA to ISO cable:
Will let you know if i get some better reception with the ANT-208.
BT works good, except sometimes the other person on the call don't hear me well on the external mic, i think it is just noise from the road.
BT tethering does not work out of the box as BT settings are removed from settings.apk, I will replace the APK with a ASOP built one for BT tethering.
totaltmega said:
This is for older vehicles, with an older antenna amplifier that needs 12V from the radio. connecting the wrong of the identical FAKRA connectors and you have 12V sent back to the amplifier which might destroy it.... I measured so that I connected the right FAKRA connector and did not use the blue 12V cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So wait - if I connect the blue wire to the cables, and connect the wrong FAKRA connector (I actually tried both!) I will destroy my antenna amplifier because it's feeding in a 12V power supply? I thought, that the blue cable is for transmitting the radio signal back to the headunit. How is the signal supposed to go back otherwise? I don't have any other connectors in the front - the antenna cable including it's FAKRA style connector is in the trunk.
Please beware that the antenna amplifier in our E46 car, normaly starts automatically. Look at the diagram, pin 16 uses a 12 volts signal to you're antenna amplifier. what you could do is to take out pin 16 out of the pin connector and connect it directly with the blue wire of the radio or take a piece of wire and make a bridge from pin 16 to the 12 volt on pin 5. Otherwise, a bad reception could be caused by bad contacts with the antenna in the rear window by dust or moist, try to clean it with dry air (like for pc's) if nothing works you have to replace the antenna amplifier.
https://i.imgur.com/E1uY9Ye.jpg
Good luck
I also tried the blue wire and the "wrong" fakra connector connected, sending only 12v back to the amp, no signal. But I tested the OEM radio after and it worked so I didn't break the antenna amplifier fortunately.
I left the pin 16 as it is for 12v back to the antenna amp via the "external speaker amp power output", brown/white if I remember correctly that is connected to pin 16. I measured it under load and it was 13V so no need to re pin it to use the blue wire instead which has more current out. I could also hear that the signal was cut off when i disabled AMP Power in the settings menu, so the power to the antenna amp works as it should, but not enough sensitivity in this radio, therefore I'm waiting for the ANT-208.
totaltmega said:
I also tried the blue wire and the "wrong" fakra connector connected, sending only 12v back to the amp, no signal. But I tested the OEM radio after and it worked so I didn't break the antenna amplifier fortunately.
I left the pin 16 as it is for 12v back to the antenna amp via the "external speaker amp power output", brown/white if I remember correctly that is connected to pin 16. I measured it under load and it was 13V so no need to re pin it to use the blue wire instead which has more current out. I could also hear that the signal was cut off when i disabled AMP Power in the settings menu, so the power to the antenna amp works as it should, but not enough sensitivity in this radio, therefore I'm waiting for the ANT-208.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From what I've understood we still need to connect this big clunky metall antenna plug into the headunit - right? If that's the case I'm afraid I have a problem. I had to buy the 5m extension harness, since my X5 had the factory NavSat which has all the original connectors in the trunk, under the spare tire. Even though I have the antenna adapter with the FAKRA plugs, I have no way to get that big metall connector to the headunit in the front.
Saiyajin said:
From what I've understood we still need to connect this big clunky metall antenna plug into the headunit - right? If that's the case I'm afraid I have a problem. I had to buy the 5m extension harness, since my X5 had the factory NavSat which has all the original connectors in the trunk, under the spare tire. Even though I have the antenna adapter with the FAKRA plugs, I have no way to get that big metall connector to the headunit in the front.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks like you have to route a long fakra extention cable all the way to the front, or try to fit a small antenna somewhere in the front.
totaltmega said:
Looks like you have to route a long fakra extention cable all the way to the front, or try to fit a small antenna somewhere in the front.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So - to sum up. Joying fu**ed up and forgot to include an antenna cable in their 5 m extension cable. Also: after 3 mail going back and forth with the joying support, they just simply stopped responding to my questions. Doesn't look like they're interested in resolving the issue. Probably because they realized that they fu**ed up. :silly:
I got the ANT-208 and I have better reception now but its not as good as stock radio.
Another issue I have:
Got the rear camera in the mail but the Joying does not recognize when I'm in reverse. There is a orange cable going to the CAN Box that should trigger a 12V signal on the orange cable when in reverse. I tested to add 12V manually with the CAN Box disconnected and it triggered.
Does your radio trigger a black screen when in reverse?
Does BMW IBus even have the reversing command for CAN Box to listen too?
Waiting for support from Joying, hoping they have some CAN Box upgrade for me, else I have to cut the orange wire and trigger it from the reversing lights...
[Does BMW IBus even have the reversing command for CAN Box to listen too?
I have a Ownice C200 and have a 325ci with a SMG gearbox, if i put the gearbox in drive, the screen went black, when i put it in neutral the screen came back on, if i put in reverse it get a black screen again. I contacted Ownice and had to cut the pink wire on the canbus and the problem was solved. So yes, it could be that your canbus thinks it had to go in reversing mode if it's a SMG or automatic grearbox.
Flemischguy said:
[Does BMW IBus even have the reversing command for CAN Box to listen too?
I have a Ownice C200 and have a 325ci with a SMG gearbox, if i put the gearbox in drive, the screen went black, when i put it in neutral the screen came back on, if i put in reverse it get a black screen again. I contacted Ownice and had to cut the pink wire on the canbus and the problem was solved. So yes, it could be that your canbus thinks it had to go in reversing mode if it's a SMG or automatic grearbox.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good to know, hope there is one for manual gearbox as well.
I eventually received my unit and have had it in now for a few weeks - coming from an MTCB it is much better - audio quality is actually pretty decent, way better than the MTCB (I only have uprated speakers, no external amp or sub), and the speed of the unit to boot and in operation is lightning fast in comparison.
I'm using PowerAmp and the Folder view with a USB disk with around 300GB of MP3s on, which only required the single USB connection to power it, not an additional one. It catalogs it way quicker than the MTCB used to - I don't use the library view, that just doesn't work for me. I mounted the hard disk in the glove box on some velcro and ran the cable through to the head unit, very easy.
I mostly use Waze for navigation, or Google Maps or the installed iGO - all work well, though I haven't used them in too much depth
Bluetooth - works for phone calls, I've not tried audio or OBD adapters over it
FM - I plugged it in as reception is bad here so I can't listen to anything when moving as it keeps cutting in and out, but I haven't even tested it works - I do remember seeing the 2 connectors on the back of the head unit, I didn't realise they were different. I'll try later and see what I've broken
Steering wheel controls worked out the box perfectly
I am considering adding a DAB adapter to give some kind of radio ability
Niggles
I'm not sure if the radio always properly hibernates. I think the value in the menu is set to 10 minutes, but plenty of times I have come back after it has been parked for 12 hours and it has done the quick resume. I've also had a random flat battery since fitting this head unit after the car was parked again for about 12 hours - totally dead, it wouldn't even crank. I never had this before, and I didn't find anything else on which would have caused it to totally drain. I haven't had it since, but it's only been in for 3-4 weeks.
Also a few times it has totally reset the settings - it's obvious when it powers on as the time is always wrong - it's nearly always 16 hours behind, the keypad touch tones are back on and the EQ has reset. I'm not sure what causes this, but at least the car has always started when this is the case.
Reversing - I don't have a reverse camera but everytime I reverse the head unit keeps switching to show a black screen with reverse lines - I couldn't see a way to fully disable this in the menu, so I probably need to remove a reverse signal wire (assuming it's not done over the can bus)
Fitting - in the UK E46 the air vent ducting behind the head unit is not parallel to the head unit - it is closer to the passenger side (left hand side as facing the head unit), leaving more room behind the right hand side. So where are the connectors? All on the left hand side, meaning everything is tight and bent at awkward angles as it comes out of the head unit.
Also - the amount of boxes and cables - I'm not sure if it's more or if everything is just bigger than the MTCB I had (which also had separate can bus box), but it was a very tight fit and took ages to route things as best I could to all the head unit to eventually seat all the way in. Fiddly, but possible
Blaze Falconburger said:
Reversing - I don't have a reverse camera but everytime I reverse the head unit keeps switching to show a black screen with reverse lines - I couldn't see a way to fully disable this in the menu, so I probably need to remove a reverse signal wire (assuming it's not done over the can bus)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Disconnect the orange wire between CAN Box and Radio and you will not trigger the reverse black screen.
I have the problem that it doesn't trigger at all, seems like I need a new CAN Box. Do you have an automatic or manual transmission?
You can disable the lines but i don't think you can disable the trigger in software.
I have a manual gearbox. It is actually quite delayed in enabling it - often I've reversed into a space and just as I am stopping it decides to enable it. Ive no idea if the reverse lights are also delayed at coming on so I'm not sure if the delay is the reverse switch or the radio. But I'll disable it anyway, thanks for the clarification on the reverse wire colour.
Is it a can signal or just a high/low?
Blaze Falconburger said:
I have a manual gearbox. It is actually quite delayed in enabling it - often I've reversed into a space and just as I am stopping it decides to enable it. Ive no idea if the reverse lights are also delayed at coming on so I'm not sure if the delay is the reverse switch or the radio. But I'll disable it anyway, thanks for the clarification on the reverse wire colour.
Is it a can signal or just a high/low?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its a fully orange wire (not dual color like orange/fainted white) that goes from CAN Box to Radio and it only triggers the reverse, so you don't remove the can signals from the CAN Box att all.
I might just wire the orange wire to the break lights as it might be faster than the CAN Box. My reversing lights are instant. Good to know.
I have the same unit except for the states. I made a bigger mistake by upgrading to 6.0 on this device. If you haven't already DONT DO IT!!!! Glitchy as hell. Also if you guys know of a custom rom that can be put here, please let me know.
Recently installed a GA9180a for my 2010 Chevy
runs really nice out the box, start up time is around 20 seconds or less
i'm getting some serious electrical interference noise once the car is started and increases with rpm, if the car is off I do not hear it, I believe this is a known issue with the fm antenna adapter. I bought a fm antenna noise filter to fix this hopefully.
ok google commands work well, I was wondering if theres a way to make phone calls, if I tell google to call...it will not dial out just show a phone logo with the contacts name, has anyone been successful with this?
also, want to remove the wire so while reversing audio will not be cut out, i think its an orange wire
anyone know of the standby mode as well, so the unit does not shut off completely when off?
also, need help with and looking to add my OEM GM reverse camera and have to splice into lines
looking to use the stock GM male mini USB adapter to connect to the back of this unit, so the usb in my center console can charge devices
To the poster above me, theres a setting under the CAR category to enable audio while reversing - you shouldnt need to cut any wires.
I bought this same head unit back in may and im just now getting around to installing it into a 2010 silverado without the factory bose option. The instructions that came with it are a joke. On bluetooth only, theres alternator whine thats easy to hear at higher volume levels and BT audio causes the pillar tweeters to clip/crackle/cutout at certain frequencies. This is more pronounced on rock music with drum cymbals, like most five finger death punch tracks. Funny thing is, that completely goes away when listening to the FM radio or any of the apps on the device like spotify. This is tolerable since the only thing i use BT for is making calls through my phone. Phone calls are not so demanding in the quality department and honestly i can live with it.
What im having the worst luck with is the backup camera. Ive got a backup camera hooked to it using the included 'cam' yellow RCA connector. Ive only connected it for testing at this point and with it getting a solid 12v supply right off the battery, its not working with the head unit. The head unit successfully detects reverse and switches to the camera display, but the screen stays black and theres a yellow diamond with an exclamation point at the center of the screen. Switching to any other gear or back to park returns the head unit to whatever screen it was on before. I checked the camera on another screen and it displays fine. Prior to that, I checked the inline fuse and replaced it just to be sure. Ive already gone through the settings in the head unit itself, video while moving is turned on.
Ive read/seen other people with similar head units (joying, etc) having to disconnect an 'orange wire' from the back of the head unit to get backup video to work correctly. HOWEVER, there are only 2 wires going to my head unit that are orange, one is orange/white and handles illumination while the other is orange/black and handles the reverse signal from the vehicle itself. I disconnected the orange/black wire just to see if that was it. It was not. With this wire disconnected the head unit no longer detected when the vehicle was in reverse and the screen never changed when i put the vehicle into reverse.
At this point im thinking theres gotta be a firmware bug, hardware failure on my particular unit or im doing something wrong. The vehicle-radio harness that came with it is plug and play. The camera itself connects with a single RCA plug and has a positive and negative lead for battery power. I dont know WHAT could possibly be connected incorrectly, but its a theory.
My ask here is if anyone has experience with this head unit, or with eonon head units in general. Does anyone have a clue how i could solve this backup camera problem?
FYI:
there is a can bus decoder in the 'plug and play' vehicle-radio harness, disconnecting it causes the head unit to not wake up when the truck turns on.
this is the new and upgraded version from eonon
android 8.0
px5
4gb ram
32gb storage
feellicks said:
My ask here is if anyone has experience with this head unit, or with eonon head units in general. Does anyone have a clue how i could solve this backup camera problem?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just got my unit also and have the exact same problem as you with the reverse camera, also like you i found lots of talk about cutting the orange wire however I wasn't game to do this yet but it seems like that is not the solution.
it sounds like you guys have a OEM back camera and if your backup camera video shows on rear view mirror check this link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iOUzGLevxqU
If your backup camera shows on old OEM radio system, check this link
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EzvycdsdIDA
I did some research but I didn't try it yet. I have backup camera on rear view mirror.
Rear DVD Controls/ DVD Player on 2010 Chevy Avalanche
I recently installed the Eonon GA9180a in my 2010 Chevy Avanlanche with Bose and Rear DVD, first I’m also getting a lot of interference from the radio when the WiFi and Bluetooth are on, wondering if a installing a noise canceling module will fix this? Also I seem to have lost the functions of my rear controls for the DVD players, I’m also wondering if anyone has figured out if this unit allows to watch a movie in the back (rear seat) while listening to music in front main unit?
not sure what you mean by installing a noise cancellation module, i had this unit and I never got the interference noise to go away, I switched a Xtrons unit and it worked well for a couple of months but then the screen went out. I got a replacement but now im getting the same noise interference
Sorry I was talking about a Automotive Noise Suppressor of some sort, just wondering! I really like the deck and features but there are some limitations!
GA9180A
Did you ever get your backup camera to work with the GA9180A?
I have tried it with the regular purple wire "CAN IN" supposed to be "CAM IN". I have tried it as AUXILIARY. I can't get the damn thing to work.
I installed a pumpkin brand in my buick and I had to build my own harness and I got it working first try. This eonon plug and play unit is not working.
If you have it working could you please let me know how. It would be awesome with pictures.
I have the factory bose. I found that ebay instructions were better than Amazon instructions.
They have the purple "CAN IN" plugged into a video out. I don't know why. I would assume that a large number of people are installing a camera and would need to connect the CAM IN into the RCA coming from the camera.
This is the most frustrating install ever. The amazon seller doesn't understand I want a working backup camera.
Eonon says it should work. Nothing more.
Thanks,
Chad
I own a 2013 Silverado with the same radio. The fix is simple.
Engine noise fix.
Take about 6 inches of copper wire. Wrap it around the Sub rca (Blue) coming out the back of the harness and ground it to a screw on the radio. (I drew a red line in the picture showing how to fix it)
If your camera is not working you might have it in the correct rca but the harness might be in the wrong place. the camera wire harness fits into 2 spots on the back of the radio. make sure you put it in the correct slot. look at the picture i posted for your engine noise issue and the correct spot for the harness.
GonzoBean what kind of radio did you have before? if you had a cheap factory radio the basic one chevy gives there is a little more work to get the backup camera to work. Thats if you have a factory backup camera already installed that goes to the mirror. you need to tap into the signal.
**Edit**
2nd picture is for proper wire harness install for bose system.
GA9180A
BIG Thanks for the grounding tip and for the diagram. I am installing a new camera so the feed is coming from the new camera, not the existing wiring harness.
I have tried connecting the camera RCA feed to the "CAN IN" eonon typo should read "CAM IN". The headunit detects when I am in reverse and I get yellow ! triangle.
I have tried connecting the camera RCA feed to the "AUX IN" and then open the "AUX IN" app and I get the yellow ! triangle.
I have tried 2 different backup camera's.
Surely someone has installed a new camera to this unit. Eonon has not been helpful.
Thoughts? Ideas?
Thanks,
Chad
KidGixxer said:
I own a 2013 Silverado with the same radio. The fix is simple.
Engine noise fix.
Take about 6 inches of copper wire. Wrap it around the Sub rca (Blue) coming out the back of the harness and ground it to a screw on the radio. (I drew a red line in the picture showing how to fix it)
If your camera is not working you might have it in the correct rca but the harness might be in the wrong place. the camera wire harness fits into 2 spots on the back of the radio. make sure you put it in the correct slot. look at the picture i posted for your engine noise issue and the correct spot for the harness.
GonzoBean what kind of radio did you have before? if you had a cheap factory radio the basic one chevy gives there is a little more work to get the backup camera to work. Thats if you have a factory backup camera already installed that goes to the mirror. you need to tap into the signal.
**Edit**
2nd picture is for proper wire harness install for bose system.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This image shows which wire is the rear camera in and where the harness should be plugged into.
Did you hook the camera up? rca from camera to radio. Power to reverse light?
Did you go into car settings on radio? code 126 and make sure rudder is on.
Ill be in and out of here all day. So we can get this problem solved for you.
The camera has power it is connected to backup lights. I tried 2 different cameras.
From your picture I have rca plug 10 connected to my backup camera's rca feed. Why is it necessary to plug 11 to 12, 13 to 14, 15 to 16 or is it?
I have also tried my backup camera feed to the AUX IN and use the AUX IN app also without any luck. I had to wire a power line for that test.
Thanks KidGixxer, I was out of town today, but will check into "rudder is on".
I will let you know what I find about "rudder is on"
KidGixxer said:
This image shows which wire is the rear camera in and where the harness should be plugged into.
Did you hook the camera up? rca from camera to radio. Power to reverse light?
Did you go into car settings on radio? code 126 and make sure rudder is on.
Ill be in and out of here all day. So we can get this problem solved for you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello. Same issue as the above posters. I made sure rudder was on and still a failed camera feed with the exclamation point triangle.
The option right above Rudder is what you need to check.
Its called "Prohibit Reverse" Make sure that is off.
And make sure your camera mode is set to "F-CAM"
KidGixxer said:
The option right above Rudder is what you need to check.
Its called "Prohibit Reverse" Make sure that is off.
And make sure your camera mode is set to "F-CAM"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So I put the "Prohibit Reverse" toggled to off which was default to off. With the cam set to F-Cam. I still have the yellow/red/green grid with a blacked out screen when I go to reverse. Anyone else have this same issue?
Antabolic said:
So I put the "Prohibit Reverse" toggled to off which was default to off. With the cam set to F-Cam. I still have the yellow/red/green grid with a blacked out screen when I go to reverse. Anyone else have this same issue?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you're seeing the green yellow red grid it might be an issue with the camera itself. If the camera was not hooked up you would get a yellow triangle with an exclamation point.
KidGixxer said:
If you're seeing the green yellow red grid it might be an issue with the camera itself. If the camera was not hooked up you would get a yellow triangle with an exclamation point.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It also does that as well. At random it seems, going back and forth between the grid and the triangle
I haven't got the camera issue as I ended up going with an aftermarket reverse camera, but I have an annoying issue with background noise/static.
It seems to be similar to the computer generated noise that cheap/early sound cards had in the background. It's enough to be noticeable if the car is idling and the volume is very low.
It doesn't get worse with speed, it is just a constant background static that seems to be computer generated.
I tried wrapping some shielding around the audio cables, but this made no difference. Grounded the headunit directly to the chasis with copper wire, made next to no difference.
Any ideas on the noise would be appreciated.
To the people that still have camera issues. are you using the factory camera that came with your vehicle. Or an aftermarket brand. If its aftermarket the camera might be bad. or bad wiring.(Did you wire the power source to the reverse light and not the brake light. also the camera wont turn on if you e brake is engaged.)
If you are using a factory camera you cant go by the wiring that the manual that comes with the radio says. It wrong. you will need to get a rca cable and cut one side and tap into 2 wires by the bcm near the gas/brake pedals.
aust_white said:
Grounded the headunit directly to the chasis with copper wire, made next to no difference.
Any ideas on the noise would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That only helps with engine noise.
Turn off Bluetooth and WiFi on the radio and you will hear that the static is gone. There is currently no fix for this.
We were discussing this in this post.
This post to be more specific.
We were looking into rerouting the wires inside this radio. The Bluetooth wire is taped to the top of the am/FM receiver and the WiFi wire route near it as well.
I was going to redo the wiring in my radio but haven't had the time.
KidGixxer said:
To the people that still have camera issues. are you using the factory camera that came with your vehicle. Or an aftermarket brand. If its aftermarket the camera might be bad. or bad wiring.(Did you wire the power source to the reverse light and not the brake light. also the camera wont turn on if you e brake is engaged.)
If you are using a factory camera you cant go by the wiring that the manual that comes with the radio says. It wrong. you will need to get a rca cable and cut one side and tap into 2 wires by the bcm near the gas/brake pedals.
That only helps with engine noise.
Turn off Bluetooth and WiFi on the radio and you will hear that the static is gone. There is currently no fix for this.
We were discussing this in this post.
This post to be more specific.
We were looking into rerouting the wires inside this radio. The Bluetooth wire is taped to the top of the am/FM receiver and the WiFi wire route near it as well.
I was going to redo the wiring in my radio but haven't had the time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately the noise on my unit seems unrelated to Bluetooth or WiFi.
I'll keep digging.
Thanks for your help.
Just thought I’d do a quick write up of how I have today got rid of a bit of interference noise/alternator whine I had on my Audi A3 with Bose and a PX5 Android 8 unit.
It wasn’t a massive nuisance but when the volume was down and you revved the car you could hear it through the speakers.
On the Audi forum everybody that has the Bose system and one of these Chinese android units seemingly gets this problem, some people use noise filters or noise suppressors which does get rid of the problem but it also reduces the quality of your sound.
So today I had some ferrite filters laying about that I had previously bought for something else and thought I would use them on the power cables to the headunit. The A3 has a quadlock connector and then obviously there is the loom that comes with the headunit to plug into the quadlock connector from the headunit.
I used 3 of these ferrite filters altogether. One on the yellow cable from the battery, one on the acc cable and one on the ground cable. I have placed these on each of the cables directly behind the connector that plugs into the headunit so I have placed them on the cables before they split off to other sources.
I then rested the unit back in the dash and started the car and I have perfect sound and have lost no sound quality, if anything it is now better as there is no interference.
If you’re not sure what a ferrite filter is then just type it into eBay or something, they just clip onto the cable and have a magnet inside which draws out the interference and are very cheap. You might have seen them before on power cables or some company’s use them on hdmi cables.
I’d advise anyone to try this that has any alternator whine with one of these android units and especially if you have a factory fitted amp and sub like the Bose ones.
Not working for me
ab1702 said:
Just thought I’d do a quick write up of how I have today got rid of a bit of interference noise/alternator whine I had on my Audi A3 with Bose and a PX5 Android 8 unit.
It wasn’t a massive nuisance but when the volume was down and you revved the car you could hear it through the speakers.
On the Audi forum everybody that has the Bose system and one of these Chinese android units seemingly gets this problem, some people use noise filters or noise suppressors which does get rid of the problem but it also reduces the quality of your sound.
So today I had some ferrite filters laying about that I had previously bought for something else and thought I would use them on the power cables to the headunit. The A3 has a quadlock connector and then obviously there is the loom that comes with the headunit to plug into the quadlock connector from the headunit.
I used 3 of these ferrite filters altogether. One on the yellow cable from the battery, one on the acc cable and one on the ground cable. I have placed these on each of the cables directly behind the connector that plugs into the headunit so I have placed them on the cables before they split off to other sources.
I then rested the unit back in the dash and started the car and I have perfect sound and have lost no sound quality, if anything it is now better as there is no interference.
If you’re not sure what a ferrite filter is then just type it into eBay or something, they just clip onto the cable and have a magnet inside which draws out the interference and are very cheap. You might have seen them before on power cables or some company’s use them on hdmi cables.
I’d advise anyone to try this that has any alternator whine with one of these android units and especially if you have a factory fitted amp and sub like the Bose ones.
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I bought a pack of these from Amazon. In addition to putting one on BATT, ACC, and GND, I sprinkled the ferrite beads onto entire wire bundles and audio signal wires like it was Mardi Gras. The sound was not noticeable when the head unit was sitting on the dash as I installed the beads, but it was there when I reinstalled it into the dash. Still RPM-dependent.
jeffreydbrown said:
I bought a pack of these from Amazon. In addition to putting one on BATT, ACC, and GND, I sprinkled the ferrite beads onto entire wire bundles and audio signal wires like it was Mardi Gras. The sound was not noticeable when the head unit was sitting on the dash as I installed the beads, but it was there when I reinstalled it into the dash. Still RPM-dependent.
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Hey,
I have the same problem. Tried the ground loop isolators - the interference is gone but no bass at all. The ferrite filters didn't work. Does anyone have solution for this ?
Thanks
Hello, sorry for bringing back an older thread but I am currently working to fix this issue myself.
I had alternator whine to begin with and the ground loop isolators sorted that but mfilip, I have no bass at all and the sound quality isn’t all that great.
I have tried some Line-Out Converters and they did nothing but make the problem worse. I am going to get some Ferrite Cores and try them too.
The Bose system worked spot on so I know it’s capable, but something just isn’t right. However years ago I retrofitted an RNS-E in place of an Concert head unit and had this alternator whine, it turned out this was because the Bose pin was not connected correctly. Once I moved this pin to the correct location it worked perfectly, but I can’t seem to understand what to do with this pin with the android head unit as there is no where for it to go?
After my car had been unused for a couple of months I got this strange problem. I realize that it might be a hardware fault, but maybe there is some clever solution to override it.
I have always had a small "pop" when turning on the head lights, but now the sound completely dies too. No sound from FM radio or any other music app. But if I put the head unit in standby and then turn it on the sound is back.
Also if I turn mute ON I can hear the sound very, very quiet, but if I turn mute OFF the sound is gone again.
I have tried different MCUs, stock Android 9 and 10, and Malaysk 10, no difference. I have tried to turn brightness adjustment off in MCU settings, instead of being controlled by the head lights.
My head unit is a PX6 MTCE with MTCE_CHS 3.75 MCU.
The head unit is connected to OEM amplifier through fiber optic converter.
Any ideas what to try next?
I am very thankful for any input.
I'd check the optical signal remains when the headlights are on. That will confirm it is nothing downstream of that.
I'd also be checking the voltage drop at the car battery when the lights are turned on. That will give an indication about the *possibility* of the head unit or a specific component of the HU going into a safety mode due to low juice.
Does the same thing happen when just the parking lights rather than the full headlights go on?
Report back on voltage and draw at the car battery if you can and go from there.
Thank you for your input.
I have checked the voltage drop when turning on the headlights, and it's just about 0,1 - 0, 2 V.
Just turning on the parking lights does not kill the sound.
When I start the car I have a much bigger drop, and it doesn't affect the sound, as long as the head lights are turned off.
Since I can hear the sound with really low volume when mute is on, I guess that means that the fiber optic converter works.
You mentioned in your original post that you still had some sound on mute.. agreed with you - wine last night confused me.
You don't say was the voltage actually drops to, just the amount it drops by. But if the car starts, you may assume that it is not charge.
I'm guessing the wrong car is chosen via software for the Canbus. Maybe you can offer more details. That sort of info is free and can help others.
Actual voltage
Car type, model and year
Current canbus car choice in setup
Anything else non standard
Any non standard connections to the wiring looms.
ludditefornow said:
You mentioned in your original post that you still had some sound on mute.. agreed with you - wine last night confused me.
You don't say was the voltage actually drops to, just the amount it drops by. But if the car starts, you may assume that it is not charge.
I'm guessing the wrong car is chosen via software for the Canbus. Maybe you can offer more details. That sort of info is free and can help others.
Actual voltage
Car type, model and year
Current canbus car choice in setup
Anything else non standard
Any non standard connections to the wiring looms.
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Click to collapse
Thanks for your suggestions!
I have done some more troubleshooting and now I am thinking that it's more likely to be some kind of grounding issue (or a bad mainboard) than a canbus problem. Because sometimes when I plug in an USB drive or an USB cable (not connected to anything) there is a "bang" and the sound dies, as it does when turning on the head lights.
I made a new grounding wire and mounted it directly to a ground point in the car chassis, instead of using the one from the OEM cable harness., but no difference. Car on or off does not matter and I also tried with an power supply connected to the car battery.
Should I try to ground the head unit better and where to put the wire then? Would the head unit chassis be enough or is it necessary to open it up and connect it somewhere on the mainboard?
I'd be disconnecting as much as possible and just feeding a power ground and an ACC feed.
Hook up speakers only and see what the result is.
Add one component at a time and test again. Might be easier to check initially out of the car and using a constant 12v power source or even an old PC ATX PSU. They have 12v and 5v rails.
I don't think adding more ground will change much.
ludditefornow said:
I'd be disconnecting as much as possible and just feeding a power ground and an ACC feed.
Hook up speakers only and see what the result is.
Add one component at a time and test again. Might be easier to check initially out of the car and using a constant 12v power source or even an old PC ATX PSU. They have 12v and 5v rails.
I don't think adding more ground will change much.
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I tried this yesterday, but with the head unit still in the car. Disconnected everything but the fiber optics converter and power. I had no problems when turning on the head lights, I tried many times. Sound did not die. Still some weird sounds when using USB drive though.
I made an extra wire from the ground wire and mounted it at one of the screws at the back of the head unit. I connected everything back except the FM antenna connector. I suspected it could be interfering because the amplified OEM FM antenna is connected to a control unit in the car which is also managing car lights.
After this I had no problems at all for the rest of the evening. Tried turning on the head lights when driving and with the engine off. Plugged in USB drive and USB cable. Sound dit not die and no noise when using USB.
Today the problem with dying sound when turning on head lights was back.
My feeling is that this issue is much more likely to happen when the head unit (and the car) is cold. If the car has been driven so the temperature inside is around 20 degrees for a period of time, or if it has been standing in the sun so the interior is warm, it is very rare that turning on the head lights affects the sound.
Hi.
I'm quite new in this adventure (LOL)
I have a Belsee android 10 head unit connected to my sound system in a car with DSP and aftermarket amps and speakers (Mazda 6 2017)
a couple of things annoy me and I would like to ask how can I improve the android to work better? Which app I should install it?
Also, have a problem. Sometimes it freezes and has to restart it.
When I turn on the HU the original software is frozen for a while before he kicks on! Is there a way to fix this glitch?
Also what annoys me very much is when I switch off from the android to the normal Original Mazda mod screen Aux music stop playing. Is there something to avoid this?
Also I there anything to have a volume control panel where I can see how much I'm increasing volume? My system is quite loud and I have set the volume to not go above to prevent clipping or distortion and just wanna be safe. Unfortunately, I have to switch to the original OEM from android, the music stops, and then adjust the volume to see what level I am.
Also as the original OEM use a bose amp and now is obviously replaced with aftermarket amps i can't figure out why is my radio and CD/DVD player quieter then AUX output..Anyone knows, please?
I would really appreciate it if someone can give me the best tips and apps to improve the HU.
Thank you!!!
I also have a belsee android unit (on my mazda 3) with aftermarket subs, tweeters and connected to Bose system that has both the Mazda connect & Android o/s. I have experienced similar problems as you - sometimes the original mazda system takes forever to complete it's boot-up. I did upgrade to Mazda connect firmware 74 and that DID help (system responds faster and voice commands function much better) but it has some issues sometimes with the backup camera for some reason As far as the volume issue, i've found that if i don't use steering wheel control for volume but the knob on the center console i get a visual representation of volume from both sides.
You might check to see if your Bose Co-pilot and Centerpoint are disabled. I've found this levels out the volume a little better.
Do you have problems switching between the two o/s's - ie it's easy to get back to the mazda system by touching console favorites button or using the CarUI icon but going back to Android by swiping right hand side of screen doesn't work many times??????
I've also found that sometimes the Driver (left) side of audio on AUX cuts out as if it's not there and reserved for the voice warnings that occur and doesn't come back until restarted.
Does DSP work for you? I can touch the icon for it, it won't launch for me. Also radio is only available on Mazda side and app not there on android side.
eddotykc said:
I also have a belsee android unit (on my mazda 3) with aftermarket subs, tweeters and connected to Bose system that has both the Mazda connect & Android o/s. I have experienced similar problems as you - sometimes the original mazda system takes forever to complete it's boot-up. I did upgrade to Mazda connect firmware 74 and that DID help (system responds faster and voice commands function much better) but it has some issues sometimes with the backup camera for some reason As far as the volume issue, i've found that if i don't use steering wheel control for volume but the knob on the center console i get a visual representation of volume from both sides.
You might check to see if your Bose Co-pilot and Centerpoint are disabled. I've found this levels out the volume a little better.
Do you have problems switching between the two o/s's - ie it's easy to get back to the mazda system by touching console favorites button or using the CarUI icon but going back to Android by swiping right hand side of screen doesn't work many times??????
I've also found that sometimes the Driver (left) side of audio on AUX cuts out as if it's not there and reserved for the voice warnings that occur and doesn't come back until restarted.
Does DSP work for you? I can touch the icon for it, it won't launch for me. Also radio is only available on Mazda side and app not there on android side.
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Hi.Thanks for your reply. I haven't hope anyone will answer!
I would like to update the firmware but I don't know how..Also, I was reading you can jump straight from android 10 to android 12 but i don't know how to.
I have still a problem with the reversing camera sometimes..
There is absolutely poor communication with the Chinese..Their English is like hello. connect to the original radio then ok?... So what the hell that means?!!!!
Also, does the volume button piss me off? Is there a way somehow with some app to get the volume from the OEM screen to transfer to the android?
Also, I have an issue checking the android for clipping by oscilloscope..My focal tweeters sound harsh and sparkling when I increase the volume...I don't know if there has to be a balance between the volume of OEM to volume on AU|X?I ws reading somewhere someone checks the original OEM for clipping and it says there is no clipping on full volume..I have to test it..The problem is I don't know whether to check the voltage from HU before the pre amp or after..I bought an adapter from amazon which on one end is a wire to strip in and another side is RCA female output when I'm running 8 wires into the DSP Focal and then to each amp.
About DSP in android ..Do not use this..Its a crap..I tested with a scope. It's clipping like hell and producing a lot of distortion.
But my main issue is the correct voltage output from HU because if you set the voltage in DSP software on a computer wrongly you by sending to the amps digital clipping....
About the Radio in android, i have only FM which i don't know why because i purchase DAB and install it..Also the DAB is very weak..it may be because of interference from somewhere..
I have as well the problem with the left door speaker cutting of few times..
Would love to move from android 10 to 12 - have you found firmware file to do it?
I actually changed out the back-up camera for a third party model that i can choose from six different views and it works great with both the mazda connect and android.
On the distortion issue, have you checked all the wiring behind glove compartment and heat unit to make sure there isn't a wire exposed potentially causing the distortion. I had a problem on the rca going to an under-seat sub sounding like crap until i wrapped the left and right as they came out of the PAC AOEM line-out converter and ensured it ran opposite of power/ground wiring.
I’m not using PAC.you don’t have to because if you measure the output voltage from hu is only between 0.6-0.8v before the factory preamp .after that is 2.4V so I bought on Amazon just adapter which on one end plug wires and other end rca. Then they run in to the dsp. But what really make my piss of is the volume on radio which is very quiet.I try your tactics without result.I don’t know if the Bose amp increase the volume or… other things have you manage to do the big 3 upgrade?at the moment I have 155amp alternator and second battery at the back xs power 3400 .the thing is I can’t connect alternator to battery as it causing charging eloop malfunkcion.it has to be done somehow to pass the sensor but haven’t figure out test.any idea?also charging screen not ready for I start stop -battery .when I disconnect second battery then fine full ready. It’s the upgrade issue alt to battery or alt? If where can I get bigger one ?
Good Morning!
I have a 2017 Mazda 6 with Bose system and amp & just installed a Belsee android 10 with dual capability to use my factory infotainment + android. Is this the same one ya’ll have? Im also a novice when it comes to all of this so I’m working with a local car stereo shop to figure it all out. 1) We’re either of ya’ll able to plug in the center control knob? Factory system and original screen both had 4pin plugs, but Android has a proprietary plug with 4pin to plug into original infotainment system, so there are no more 4pin ports. 2) when I plug in the RCA cables I get a background static that doesn’t go away — constantly on once the system boots (and is there when I’m on the OEM and Android). Android side base volume is low and I have to crank volume way up to hear. 3) when using wireless Apple car play on Android side and making calls, the receiver gets a horrible immediate echo of their voice. Not sure of the fix for volume and echo, just thought I’d throw it out here if any of you or those on the forum have similar problems or a solution. Thanks!
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Hello stefanek33! Yes, I did buy from Belsee and have been dealing with Rambo since June troubleshooting the issue. It has been very frustrating and I’ve come to the conclusion in my novice mind that the systems are crap. You confirmed it with your professional work on it! I had to look for something because my factory screen crapped out on me — it was going to be $1500 to replace and was backordered by Mazda with unknown stock date so I went looking and found Belsee. Screen size is great but that’s about it. At this point since the factory works, I’m just going to use the thing for the 10.1” screen and get one of those car link adaptors that does the same (android apps, wireless CarPlay) but run it through the factory part and completely ignore the Belsee android (attached the install document and a picture of the split screen android/factory system). All I need to do is figure out how to plug in the center command knob and they plan will work (I think lol).
I’m interested in your suggested fix, but I’m not sure what you mean about the red wire. What is the tau? Do you have a picture example of the wire? I’m sorry — you’re dealing with a complete noob / novice to troubleshooting electronics. Happy holidays!!!
mjs8rkis said:
Hello stefanek33! Yes, I did buy from Belsee and have been dealing with Rambo since June troubleshooting the issue. It has been very frustrating and I’ve come to the conclusion in my novice mind that the systems are crap. You confirmed it with your professional work on it! I had to look for something because my factory screen crapped out on me — it was going to be $1500 to replace and was backordered by Mazda with unknown stock date so I went looking and found Belsee. Screen size is great but that’s about it. At this point since the factory works, I’m just going to use the thing for the 10.1” screen and get one of those car link adaptors that does the same (android apps, wireless CarPlay) but run it through the factory part and completely ignore the Belsee android (attached the install document and a picture of the split screen android/factory system). All I need to do is figure out how to plug in the center command knob and they plan will work (I think lol).
I’m interested in your suggested fix, but I’m not sure what you mean about the red wire. What is the tau? Do you have a picture example of the wire? I’m sorry — you’re dealing with a complete noob / novice to troubleshooting electronics. Happy holidays!!!
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TAU = Tuner Amplifier Unit. Google is my friend. I’m getting smarter at this by the day! Lol. It’s one thing to work through good quality products that have diagrams and such … but having to pull teeth to get back one to two liners in broken English is very frustrating. Even more so when they say these units are “plug and play” lol
you should recieve this wire ..then connect it and run the rcaback to the unit and connect it in to the AUx in..The central knob i havent got any wires i just use the factory wire from the Radio and connected to the Android ..It mus fit try...Central knob connect to the original location...I was bit strugling too as later i figure out from the Original OEM you have to dismount the metal Unit and fit the android unit on it..Of course Mr Rambo didnt provide scrwews so i have to use my one...When you instal the Android on the metal OEM part then just run the blue wire from the Android and connect to the Metal Unit and you should be okay..
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Stefanek33 said:
you should recieve this wire ..then connect it and run the rcaback to the unit and connect it in to the AUx in..The central knob i havent got any wires i just use the factory wire from the Radio and connected to the Android ..It mus fit try...Central knob connect to the original location...I was bit strugling too as later i figure out from the Original OEM you have to dismount the metal Unit and fit the android unit on it..Of course Mr Rambo didnt provide scrwews so i have to use my one...When you instal the Android on the metal OEM part then just run the blue wire from the Android and connect to the Metal Unit and you should be okay..
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Ah yes, received that connector and ran it through to the Aux in on the Android. I have the static and the low volume and echo on Bluetooth/CarPlay calling still.
For the center control knob, I have this power/4pin connector (attached pic), and I can connect it to the factory, but then the Android blue cable that connect from Android head unit to that 4pin port won’t connect. Will I still get the factory system to show? I’ll need to extend the cable though to get it to plug into the factory since it won’t reach.
Thanks!
The blu cable has nothing to do with the central consol .blue wire from android the second end connect to the metal part of oem.
That’s right. But if I leave blue connected to the metal part of OEM, I have no other place to plug the center console plug. All Rambo told me was to unplug the blue and see what happens lol
I connect the central console back to the OEM metal bracket..I think in my one the 4 pins are positioned on the left back side..How is it look like your metal Bracket from back..Can you make some pic.?
I was able to get the center knob to work! I kept the blue 4 pin cable, but apparently in a previous install the guy helping me ran a separate 8pin cable that didn’t connect to anything, so I found the correct 8pin that is connected to the power cable and it all works. Now I just need to try and solve the echo and static issue. I think if I go the way you did and completely replace the Bose system, it would work — though might end up with the same issue you have. Happy New Year!
How is working aux for you?You have to plug the silly 3.5mm jack in to the aux slot then switch to the Aux on the OEM..When you increase the volume on aux did you hear static noise with or without starting the engine?Please let me know!Its very important!
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Stefanek33 said:
If you can please do that .Do not play any music.Just plug in and increase both volumes on max if you hear any hiss or static noise from tweeters etc...The problem is the 3.5mm jack doesn't have close circuit and I wanna find out if this is the main concern causing the issue...
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So I plugged red/white RCA connector to the R/W RCA inputs on the android. I immediately began hearing static at low to zero volume. I did not have the 24 pin adapter cable even connected to the right door radio plug. I also did not have the 35mm jack in the aux slot. So I had the static then, and the after, when I plugged the adapter in and the 35mm in the aux slot, static was still there, but my volume was very low. Turning up the volume made static even worse. I heard the static both without and with the engine started.
Thought it interesting that static started immediately when plugging the RCA male to the RCA inputs on the android and didn’t even have the 24 pin adapter connected.
mjs8rkis said:
So I plugged red/white RCA connector to the R/W RCA inputs on the android. I immediately began hearing static at low to zero volume. I did not have the 24 pin adapter cable even connected to the right door radio plug. I also did not have the 35mm jack in the aux slot. So I had the static then, and the after, when I plugged the adapter in and the 35mm in the aux slot, static was still there, but my volume was very low. Turning up the volume made static even worse. I heard the static both without and with the engine started.
Thought it interesting that static started immediately when plugging the RCA male to the RCA inputs on the android and didn’t even have the 24 pin adapter connected.
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Make some short video and upload on vimeo ..We have to do something with it as Rambo wasnt really honest with as.