Just picked up what appears to be a newly designed (or redesigned) Volkswagen headunit using the Allwinner T3 Quadcore from Umecity. I didn't see any threads matching the hardware listed, so I thought I'd start a discussion thread for it. The unit I purchased is only a few centimeters deep, and seems to use several upgraded ICs (radio and amp, specifically). The images of the system indicate a hardware date of March 31st, 2017 (printed on the board), and a system date of April 10th, 2017.
Product Link: Umecity Allwinner T3
PHOTOS
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[SIZE="+1"]HARDWARE SPECS[/SIZE]
CPU: Allwinner T3 Quad-Core, 1.6GHZ
MEMORY: 2GB DDR3 / 16GB
GPU: DUAL Mali 400*400MHZ
RADIO: TDA7786 IC (Not 6624)
AMPLIFIER: TDA7851 IC (Not 7388)
[SIZE="+1"]FACTORY FIRMWARE[/SIZE]
OS: Android 6.0.1 (Marshmallow)
MCU: T5.3.19-145-10-C06101-170413, SYSTEM: V8.2.1_20170410.135936_JP1
MCU: T5.3.EQ-145-13-C06101-170417, SYSTEM: V8.2.1_20170410.135936_JP1
2017-06-21 Firmware/MCU Update
[SIZE="+1"]ADVANCED SETTINGS[/SIZE]
Extra Settings password: 123456
Developer & Factory reset password: 7890
FIRST IMPRESSIONS
This is probably one of the nicest car stereo designs I've seen. Very thin and light, with what look to be well thought out button placement for a 9" unit (capacitive buttons in the bottom bezel). The unit was well packed, and arrived in good shape with no damage. The vendor has also been super responsive and helpful.
INSTALL COMMENTARY
The unit is incredibly shallow, giving you way more space for cabling. Unfortunately, it didn't come with any documentation, or even a wiring diagram. Luckily, most of the connections are pretty obvious.
The combined the VW ISO1, and ISO2 connector harness is a nasty spaghetti cable, but manageable with some careful sorting, and zip ties. If you use CANBUS, don't connect the orange power connector to your ISO of choice. This will make the stereo not shut off when the car does.
USAGE REVIEW
Startup time: Took about 30 seconds from no power to radio on the first boot. Unit will stay in standby for up to an hour, then power down to preserve battery.
Responsiveness: Touch screen and capacitive hardware buttons are very responsive.
Display Quality: Screen is super clear and bright, with good viewing angles. Brightness and panel lights come up or down based on the headlights.
GPS: GPS found lock after only a few seconds.
Wireless: Wireless range could be stronger. That said, the unit did eventually see my home AP from the street and connected with 2 bars.
ISSUES WITH UNIT
Fender Audio: Individual audio channels are way too loud. Listening to car on volume 3-4 starts to get painful. Volume control goes up to 40 or so.
Can't install Android Auto through the Play Store directly. Will need to be side loaded.
Please post screenshots of how Waze looks on this unit.
I have an unit from them, generally happy with it but since last FW update, they made the fonts in apps smaller, i'm waiting for them to revert to previous settings...DPI/PPI, whatever..
zerozoneice said:
Please post screenshots of how Waze looks on this unit.
I have an unit from them, generally happy with it but since last FW update, they made the fonts in apps smaller, i'm waiting for them to revert to previous settings...DPI/PPI, whatever..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Will do. Is your unit one of the updated models? Which system firmware date are you running? I'm curious if this is a wholly new unit, or compatible with some of the older models.
Rottgrub said:
Will do. Is your unit one of the updated models? Which system firmware date are you running? I'm curious if this is a wholly new unit, or compatible with some of the older models.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Check HERE
Okay, cool. Looks like you have the earlier hardware, before the refresh. Is that a full depth unit?
Hi, how does it support steering wheel control buttons?
Updated with unbox, first impressions, and install notes.
did you get the antenna amplifier in the box or you bought on your own? that connector should clamp to the exposed end of the 12V blue wire after you take the cap off. I guess not to make an old fashioned wire knot out of it...use isolation tape anyway to cover the connection.
yes, mine is a full depth unit, but not that deep compared to others.
---------- Post added at 11:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:02 AM ----------
thanhvx said:
Hi, how does it support steering wheel control buttons?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
if you have VW/Skoda/Audi and use canbus, more or less all chinese stuff recognize and use the wheel buttons out of the box.
left button block controls the unit, while right button block controls the MFD.
usually default pre-installed apps (radio/music) work perfect, volume being a global thing anyway, but some 3rd party players have probs with the fwd/rev prev/next buttons and therefore u need to script it.
zerozoneice said:
did you get the antenna amplifier in the box or you bought on your own? that connector should clamp to the exposed end of the 12V blue wire after you take the cap off. I guess not to make an old fashioned wire knot out of it...use isolation tape anyway to cover the connection.
yes, mine is a full depth unit, but not that deep compared to others.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I mentioned I needed a dual pole antenna connector, so they sent the antenna amplifier with the unit. It's nicely made, but the connector kinda threw me. I verified with the vendor, and it just needs to be cut off and patched to the ANT CONT line, like I suspected.
I have to say, this vendor is totally on the ball with responses. Just wish they hadn't included this dumb ISO1/ISO2 cable. It's really messing with my OCD.
I should have some info on the running unit tomorrow with any luck.
i'm curious how do you find it compared to the 9" Joying which imho make the best units at the moment. Both functionality-wise and look of the UI.
zerozoneice said:
---------- Post added at 11:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:02 AM ----------
if you have VW/Skoda/Audi and use canbus, more or less all chinese stuff recognize and use the wheel buttons out of the box.
left button block controls the unit, while right button block controls the MFD.
usually default pre-installed apps (radio/music) work perfect, volume being a global thing anyway, but some 3rd party players have probs with the fwd/rev prev/next buttons and therefore u need to script it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank Zerozoneice!
My vehicle is outlander 2007 with Rockford Fosgate amp. I have exactly the same problem that you have mentioned. The fwd/rev and prev/next buttons are overlapped with answer and hangup buttons - I mean when I setup buttons I press answer then unit removes fwd and so on with hangup.
Im noob to swc, do you know where I can find how-to script it to solve the problem? Thank you!
Rottgrub said:
Just picked up what appears to be a newly designed (or redesigned) Volkswagen headunit using the Allwinner T3 Quadcore from Umecity. I didn't see any threads matching the hardware listed, so I thought I'd start a discussion thread for it. The unit I purchased is only a few centimeters deep, and seems to use several upgraded ICs (radio and amp, specifically). The images of the system indicate a hardware date of March 31st, 2017 (printed on the board), and a system date of April 10th, 2017.
Product Link: Umecity Allwinner T3
PHOTOS
View attachment 4148838 View attachment 4148839 View attachment 4148840
View attachment 4148841 View attachment 4148929
[SIZE="+1"]HARDWARE SPECS[/SIZE]
CPU: Allwinner T3 Quad-Core, 1.6GHZ
MEMORY: 2GB DDR3 / 16GB
GPU: DUAL Mali 400*400MHZ
RADIO: TDA7786 IC (Not 6624)
AMPLIFIER: TDA7851 IC (Not 7388)
[SIZE="+1"]FACTORY FIRMWARE[/SIZE]
OS: Android 6.0.1 (Marshmallow)
MCU: T5.3.19-145-10-C06101-170413, SYSTEM: V8.2.1_20170410.135936_JP1
[SIZE="+1"]Advanced Settings Password: 123456[/SIZE]
FIRST IMPRESSIONS
This is probably one of the nicest headunit designs I've seen. Very thin and light, with what look to be well thought out button placement for a 9" unit (capacitive buttons in the bottom bezel). The unit was well packed, and arrived in good shape with no damage. The vendor has also been super responsive and helpful.
INSTALL COMMENTARY
In theory, installing this unit should be super simple. It's incredibly shallow, giving you way more space for cabling. Also, it's a Volkswagen quadlock connector, so there shouldn't be many cables needed.
Unfortunately, I hit my first problem right out of the box. No documentation. Not even a wiring diagram to show where things get plugged in. Most of the connections are pretty obvious, but some make no sense at all since the back of the unit uses a completely custom set of ports.
Complicating this, they combined the VW ISO1, and ISO2 connectors onto the same harness. This makes for a nasty spaghetti cable where half the wires aren't used, and the rest are routed into a nasty tangle. I'll probably end up cutting the ISO2 connector off, just to keep things sane. I have requested that Umecity send a ISO1 only cable to replace this mess.
View attachment 4148910
So, the antenna power cable is pretty obvious, and connects to the "ANT CONT" lead, but WHY DOES IT HAVE THIS END ON IT? Makes me think it should plug into a molex harness of some sort. UPDATE: Got feedback from the vendor that the end should just be cut off, and connected to "ANT CONT" like I suspected.
View attachment 4148930
Will try to get the unit installed tomorrow, and update with more/better pics, etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It looks very nice indeed. Please post some picture when installed and powered on and comment on radio reception , audio quality and touch responsiveness.
thanhvx said:
Thank Zerozoneice!
My vehicle is outlander 2007 with Rockford Fosgate amp. I have exactly the same problem that you have mentioned. The fwd/rev and prev/next buttons are overlapped with answer and hangup buttons - I mean when I setup buttons I press answer then unit removes fwd and so on with hangup.
Im noob to swc, do you know where I can find how-to script it to solve the problem? Thank you!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
no idea myself, i remember reading about it somewhere, i'll try to find a link
if your unit was rk3066/3188, you could use the RK3066 HeadUnit app:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.petrows.mtcservice&hl=en
and is important to know what headunit you have, not just the car model
Connector layout wanted
Rottgrub said:
Just picked up what appears to be a newly designed (or redesigned) Volkswagen headunit using the Allwinner T3 Quadcore from Umecity. I didn't see any threads matching the hardware listed, so I thought I'd start a discussion thread for it. The unit I purchased is only a few centimeters deep, and seems to use several upgraded ICs (radio and amp, specifically). The images of the system indicate a hardware date of March 31st, 2017 (printed on the board), and a system date of April 10th, 2017.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm interested in the same unit but with a 7" screen, it comes with an ISO cable for Toyota or one for universal use. I want the last one and asked them for the pin layout of that connector. We exchanged about 10 messages but I got no answer. They are not able or willing to provide those details. Did you get a manual with the details? If you have them can you share them with me?
I'm not able to show a pic of the unit because I'm a new user. I want the pin layout of the black connector.
I have that unit installed on my VW Tiguan 2012
Sound is okay, but there is too much high frequencies if you ask me (i have weird sensation in my ears because of that hi-hat clicks in rock/metal music. Sounds much better with club music.)
EQ is only 3 band, so you can't cut specific frequencies - only "bass" "mid" and "high".
Tried to root with KingRoot to install ViperFX and polish sound - without any success.
zerozoneice said:
i'm curious how do you find it compared to the 9" Joying which imho make the best units at the moment. Both functionality-wise and look of the UI.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for the long delay in replying. After using it for a few weeks, and really getting a feel for the unit, I have to say that it stacks up well against the Joying. Both units are quick, and have a smooth interface. I think the default UI in all of these units looks like crap. One of the first things I do is swap to a custom launcher. Automate is really nice, IMHO.
Joying Pros:
Handles sleep properly when car is off. Unfortunately, the Umecity powers off after an hour or so.
Exposes more advanced controls to the user. (This can also be a con, considering some users...)
Compatible with Android Auto directly from the store. (At least when running Android 5.1.1.)
Allows you to set default volume levels for things like System, Alarm, Voice, etc.
Firmware is available, so you can futz about with the OS, and restore when you break it.
Umecity Pros:
Super small design, which makes it trivial to install, and leaves lots of room for airflow behind the unit.
Capacitive hardware controls built into the bezel.
Upgraded radio and amplifier chips, which helps reception, and audio quality.
Simplified advanced controls, which makes configuration fairly straightforward.
Firmware is unavailable, so you won't be tempted to futz about with the OS and break it. =)
Things both get wrong (Ownice C500 quad as well):
No HD Radio support in the US.
Super shiny screen surface. Should be matte to reduce glare.
Bluetooth media audio sounds terrible.
No source code released.
georgebest said:
It looks very nice indeed. Please post some picture when installed and powered on and comment on radio reception , audio quality and touch responsiveness.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately, I wasn't able to get any pics of the interface that didn't look like crap. I blame my camera. That said, the unit is a perfect fit for the dash on my 2015 Beetle, so I would imagine it would be the same for any other unit that uses the same style head units. The UI, and OS, was completely smooth, with no stuttering or other slowdowns, even when running multiple applications at the same time (Automate, Google Maps, PowerAmp, etc). The screen was sharp and bright. I just wish they'd gone with a matte screen. With my convertible top down, all I see is glare. (To be fair, this was also the case with the Joying 9", Ownice C500, and even the factory units.)
As far as the radio goes, the unit picked up every station in my area immediately, and never seemed to wander or lose reception. I was even able to receive a low power college station all the way across town where it's usually just static.
Audio quality was clear, and without distortion. Though, as mentioned in the main review, I did encounter "too much volume" problems with my Fender amped vehicle. Unfortunately, while I could adjust the volume levels with a third party application, it would reset to max volume across the board every reboot.
Hardy62 said:
I have that unit installed on my VW Tiguan 2012
Sound is okay, but there is too much high frequencies if you ask me (i have weird sensation in my ears because of that hi-hat clicks in rock/metal music. Sounds much better with club music.)
EQ is only 3 band, so you can't cut specific frequencies - only "bass" "mid" and "high".
Tried to root with KingRoot to install ViperFX and polish sound - without any success.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's interesting. I didn't have any issue with too much high end. If anything, the sound was a little flat with defaults EQ settings, and I ended up bumping both the lows and highs a bit (The "rock" defaults actually sounded okay).
Do you have the factory VW audio system, or one of the OEM amplified systems (Fender/Dynaudio)?
Frank1401s said:
I'm interested in the same unit but with a 7" screen, it comes with an ISO cable for Toyota or one for universal use. I want the last one and asked them for the pin layout of that connector. We exchanged about 10 messages but I got no answer. They are not able or willing to provide those details. Did you get a manual with the details? If you have them can you share them with me?
I'm not able to show a pic of the unit because I'm a new user. I want the pin layout of the black connector.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately, the unit didn't come with any wiring diagram, or manual, and the pin out that's usually printed on the unit is missing since the hardware is only 2" thick. Let me look at the connector. There is a chance it could line up with other units which use the same ISO connector...
So, from what I can suss out looking at the wiring harness, this is what I have. Keep in mind that this is for the VW model, and may be entirely different from the universal. Wires are labeled with my looking into the wiring harness end, 1 is top left, 16 is bottom right.
1/2 - (white&w/stripe) Front left speaker
3/4 - (grey&w/stripe) Front right speaker
5 - (Pink) Key 1
6 - (Brown) Canbus
7 - (Red) Canbus bypass +
8 - (Black) Ground
9/10 - (Purple&w/stripe) Rear right speaker
11/12 - (Green&w/stripe) Rear left speaker
13 - (Blue) Ant Cont
14 - (Green) Key 2
15 - (Orange) Canbus bypass -
16 - (Yellow) 12v ACC
Rottgrub said:
Unfortunately, I wasn't able to get any pics of the interface that didn't look like crap. I blame my camera. That said, the unit is a perfect fit for the dash on my 2015 Beetle, so I would imagine it would be the same for any other unit that uses the same style head units. The UI, and OS, was completely smooth, with no stuttering or other slowdowns, even when running multiple applications at the same time (Automate, Google Maps, PowerAmp, etc). The screen was sharp and bright. I just wish they'd gone with a matte screen. With my convertible top down, all I see is glare. (To be fair, this was also the case with the Joying 9", Ownice C500, and even the factory units.)
As far as the radio goes, the unit picked up every station in my area immediately, and never seemed to wander or lose reception. I was even able to receive a low power college station all the way across town where it's usually just static.
Audio quality was clear, and without distortion. Though, as mentioned in the main review, I did encounter "too much volume" problems with my Fender amped vehicle. Unfortunately, while I could adjust the volume levels with a third party application, it would reset to max volume across the board every reboot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
All in all, would you say that it's better than Joying 9" Intel sofia 2gb ??
I am replacing an old 4.4.2 Joying head unit with their new px5 4GB unit.
The wiring diagrams are identical as are the wiring harnesses so I figured I could just unplug the iso connection from the old and plug the new one in.
I get power but no audio. The external factory amp doesn’t seem to be powering on because with the old I would get a slight sound in the speakers as the head unit came fully on in the main screen.
Any ideas? I was going to start testing the pin outs but I just don’t get what could be different.
TheCleaner said:
I am replacing an old 4.4.2 Joying head unit with their new px5 4GB unit.
The wiring diagrams are identical as are the wiring harnesses so I figured I could just unplug the iso connection from the old and plug the new one in.
I get power but no audio. The external factory amp doesn’t seem to be powering on because with the old I would get a slight sound in the speakers as the head unit came fully on in the main screen.
Any ideas? I was going to start testing the pin outs but I just don’t get what could be different.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
FYI, to close this out for others. The issue was the AMP CONT pin wasn't supplying 12 volts with the radio on. Tested with a multimeter. Frustrating, and trying to deal with Joying support to send something like this back to China is a PITA.
So, to deal with it I ended up cutting AMP CONT right before the fuse, and then splicing it into the red/accessory wire. Same effect. Good to go now.
TheCleaner said:
FYI, to close this out for others. The issue was the AMP CONT pin wasn't supplying 12 volts with the radio on. Tested with a multimeter. Frustrating, and trying to deal with Joying support to send something like this back to China is a PITA.
So, to deal with it I ended up cutting AMP CONT right before the fuse, and then splicing it into the red/accessory wire. Same effect. Good to go now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same problem here. I emailed joying support no help yet. I was looking for a setting in car setup that used to be in the android 6 units to tell it you wanted the external amp trigger enabled - I could not find that setting in the new Joying Android 8 unit.
sounds exactly like my issue I have posted on Joying forums and have a long chat with Candy at Joying. I am at a loss because the radio app when it comes on plays just fine via my external amp and sub. But when I switch to spotify or bluetooth audio. I get nothing. then if I mute and unmute I get audio to my front and rears but nothing to my subwoofer. I was looking for the external amp settings like I had in my 6.1 Android unit. Nothing. Dont want to send it back because it is fast and looks great. If I do send it back, I am just going to go with Seicane.
Hello all this worked for me. Try taking the top cover off the head unit and look on the board for the round sticker on top of the MCU (in my case the sticker said TP6735D v43-6686) and search the sticker info. Download only the MCU update with the same sticker info (in my case I needed TP6735D v43) after update the sound is working again. Not sure why the website MCU update takes out the sound. Good thing is, you can rollback . Hope this helps.
Playing music from USB will wake our factory amp, but radio station music does not. What would cause this? Is there a way to get radio to wake amp? I think(?) Amp Cont wire is unconnected.
Recently installed a GA9180a for my 2010 Chevy
runs really nice out the box, start up time is around 20 seconds or less
i'm getting some serious electrical interference noise once the car is started and increases with rpm, if the car is off I do not hear it, I believe this is a known issue with the fm antenna adapter. I bought a fm antenna noise filter to fix this hopefully.
ok google commands work well, I was wondering if theres a way to make phone calls, if I tell google to call...it will not dial out just show a phone logo with the contacts name, has anyone been successful with this?
also, want to remove the wire so while reversing audio will not be cut out, i think its an orange wire
anyone know of the standby mode as well, so the unit does not shut off completely when off?
also, need help with and looking to add my OEM GM reverse camera and have to splice into lines
looking to use the stock GM male mini USB adapter to connect to the back of this unit, so the usb in my center console can charge devices
To the poster above me, theres a setting under the CAR category to enable audio while reversing - you shouldnt need to cut any wires.
I bought this same head unit back in may and im just now getting around to installing it into a 2010 silverado without the factory bose option. The instructions that came with it are a joke. On bluetooth only, theres alternator whine thats easy to hear at higher volume levels and BT audio causes the pillar tweeters to clip/crackle/cutout at certain frequencies. This is more pronounced on rock music with drum cymbals, like most five finger death punch tracks. Funny thing is, that completely goes away when listening to the FM radio or any of the apps on the device like spotify. This is tolerable since the only thing i use BT for is making calls through my phone. Phone calls are not so demanding in the quality department and honestly i can live with it.
What im having the worst luck with is the backup camera. Ive got a backup camera hooked to it using the included 'cam' yellow RCA connector. Ive only connected it for testing at this point and with it getting a solid 12v supply right off the battery, its not working with the head unit. The head unit successfully detects reverse and switches to the camera display, but the screen stays black and theres a yellow diamond with an exclamation point at the center of the screen. Switching to any other gear or back to park returns the head unit to whatever screen it was on before. I checked the camera on another screen and it displays fine. Prior to that, I checked the inline fuse and replaced it just to be sure. Ive already gone through the settings in the head unit itself, video while moving is turned on.
Ive read/seen other people with similar head units (joying, etc) having to disconnect an 'orange wire' from the back of the head unit to get backup video to work correctly. HOWEVER, there are only 2 wires going to my head unit that are orange, one is orange/white and handles illumination while the other is orange/black and handles the reverse signal from the vehicle itself. I disconnected the orange/black wire just to see if that was it. It was not. With this wire disconnected the head unit no longer detected when the vehicle was in reverse and the screen never changed when i put the vehicle into reverse.
At this point im thinking theres gotta be a firmware bug, hardware failure on my particular unit or im doing something wrong. The vehicle-radio harness that came with it is plug and play. The camera itself connects with a single RCA plug and has a positive and negative lead for battery power. I dont know WHAT could possibly be connected incorrectly, but its a theory.
My ask here is if anyone has experience with this head unit, or with eonon head units in general. Does anyone have a clue how i could solve this backup camera problem?
FYI:
there is a can bus decoder in the 'plug and play' vehicle-radio harness, disconnecting it causes the head unit to not wake up when the truck turns on.
this is the new and upgraded version from eonon
android 8.0
px5
4gb ram
32gb storage
feellicks said:
My ask here is if anyone has experience with this head unit, or with eonon head units in general. Does anyone have a clue how i could solve this backup camera problem?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just got my unit also and have the exact same problem as you with the reverse camera, also like you i found lots of talk about cutting the orange wire however I wasn't game to do this yet but it seems like that is not the solution.
it sounds like you guys have a OEM back camera and if your backup camera video shows on rear view mirror check this link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iOUzGLevxqU
If your backup camera shows on old OEM radio system, check this link
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EzvycdsdIDA
I did some research but I didn't try it yet. I have backup camera on rear view mirror.
Rear DVD Controls/ DVD Player on 2010 Chevy Avalanche
I recently installed the Eonon GA9180a in my 2010 Chevy Avanlanche with Bose and Rear DVD, first I’m also getting a lot of interference from the radio when the WiFi and Bluetooth are on, wondering if a installing a noise canceling module will fix this? Also I seem to have lost the functions of my rear controls for the DVD players, I’m also wondering if anyone has figured out if this unit allows to watch a movie in the back (rear seat) while listening to music in front main unit?
not sure what you mean by installing a noise cancellation module, i had this unit and I never got the interference noise to go away, I switched a Xtrons unit and it worked well for a couple of months but then the screen went out. I got a replacement but now im getting the same noise interference
Sorry I was talking about a Automotive Noise Suppressor of some sort, just wondering! I really like the deck and features but there are some limitations!
GA9180A
Did you ever get your backup camera to work with the GA9180A?
I have tried it with the regular purple wire "CAN IN" supposed to be "CAM IN". I have tried it as AUXILIARY. I can't get the damn thing to work.
I installed a pumpkin brand in my buick and I had to build my own harness and I got it working first try. This eonon plug and play unit is not working.
If you have it working could you please let me know how. It would be awesome with pictures.
I have the factory bose. I found that ebay instructions were better than Amazon instructions.
They have the purple "CAN IN" plugged into a video out. I don't know why. I would assume that a large number of people are installing a camera and would need to connect the CAM IN into the RCA coming from the camera.
This is the most frustrating install ever. The amazon seller doesn't understand I want a working backup camera.
Eonon says it should work. Nothing more.
Thanks,
Chad
I own a 2013 Silverado with the same radio. The fix is simple.
Engine noise fix.
Take about 6 inches of copper wire. Wrap it around the Sub rca (Blue) coming out the back of the harness and ground it to a screw on the radio. (I drew a red line in the picture showing how to fix it)
If your camera is not working you might have it in the correct rca but the harness might be in the wrong place. the camera wire harness fits into 2 spots on the back of the radio. make sure you put it in the correct slot. look at the picture i posted for your engine noise issue and the correct spot for the harness.
GonzoBean what kind of radio did you have before? if you had a cheap factory radio the basic one chevy gives there is a little more work to get the backup camera to work. Thats if you have a factory backup camera already installed that goes to the mirror. you need to tap into the signal.
**Edit**
2nd picture is for proper wire harness install for bose system.
GA9180A
BIG Thanks for the grounding tip and for the diagram. I am installing a new camera so the feed is coming from the new camera, not the existing wiring harness.
I have tried connecting the camera RCA feed to the "CAN IN" eonon typo should read "CAM IN". The headunit detects when I am in reverse and I get yellow ! triangle.
I have tried connecting the camera RCA feed to the "AUX IN" and then open the "AUX IN" app and I get the yellow ! triangle.
I have tried 2 different backup camera's.
Surely someone has installed a new camera to this unit. Eonon has not been helpful.
Thoughts? Ideas?
Thanks,
Chad
KidGixxer said:
I own a 2013 Silverado with the same radio. The fix is simple.
Engine noise fix.
Take about 6 inches of copper wire. Wrap it around the Sub rca (Blue) coming out the back of the harness and ground it to a screw on the radio. (I drew a red line in the picture showing how to fix it)
If your camera is not working you might have it in the correct rca but the harness might be in the wrong place. the camera wire harness fits into 2 spots on the back of the radio. make sure you put it in the correct slot. look at the picture i posted for your engine noise issue and the correct spot for the harness.
GonzoBean what kind of radio did you have before? if you had a cheap factory radio the basic one chevy gives there is a little more work to get the backup camera to work. Thats if you have a factory backup camera already installed that goes to the mirror. you need to tap into the signal.
**Edit**
2nd picture is for proper wire harness install for bose system.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This image shows which wire is the rear camera in and where the harness should be plugged into.
Did you hook the camera up? rca from camera to radio. Power to reverse light?
Did you go into car settings on radio? code 126 and make sure rudder is on.
Ill be in and out of here all day. So we can get this problem solved for you.
The camera has power it is connected to backup lights. I tried 2 different cameras.
From your picture I have rca plug 10 connected to my backup camera's rca feed. Why is it necessary to plug 11 to 12, 13 to 14, 15 to 16 or is it?
I have also tried my backup camera feed to the AUX IN and use the AUX IN app also without any luck. I had to wire a power line for that test.
Thanks KidGixxer, I was out of town today, but will check into "rudder is on".
I will let you know what I find about "rudder is on"
KidGixxer said:
This image shows which wire is the rear camera in and where the harness should be plugged into.
Did you hook the camera up? rca from camera to radio. Power to reverse light?
Did you go into car settings on radio? code 126 and make sure rudder is on.
Ill be in and out of here all day. So we can get this problem solved for you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello. Same issue as the above posters. I made sure rudder was on and still a failed camera feed with the exclamation point triangle.
The option right above Rudder is what you need to check.
Its called "Prohibit Reverse" Make sure that is off.
And make sure your camera mode is set to "F-CAM"
KidGixxer said:
The option right above Rudder is what you need to check.
Its called "Prohibit Reverse" Make sure that is off.
And make sure your camera mode is set to "F-CAM"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So I put the "Prohibit Reverse" toggled to off which was default to off. With the cam set to F-Cam. I still have the yellow/red/green grid with a blacked out screen when I go to reverse. Anyone else have this same issue?
Antabolic said:
So I put the "Prohibit Reverse" toggled to off which was default to off. With the cam set to F-Cam. I still have the yellow/red/green grid with a blacked out screen when I go to reverse. Anyone else have this same issue?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you're seeing the green yellow red grid it might be an issue with the camera itself. If the camera was not hooked up you would get a yellow triangle with an exclamation point.
KidGixxer said:
If you're seeing the green yellow red grid it might be an issue with the camera itself. If the camera was not hooked up you would get a yellow triangle with an exclamation point.
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Click to collapse
It also does that as well. At random it seems, going back and forth between the grid and the triangle
I haven't got the camera issue as I ended up going with an aftermarket reverse camera, but I have an annoying issue with background noise/static.
It seems to be similar to the computer generated noise that cheap/early sound cards had in the background. It's enough to be noticeable if the car is idling and the volume is very low.
It doesn't get worse with speed, it is just a constant background static that seems to be computer generated.
I tried wrapping some shielding around the audio cables, but this made no difference. Grounded the headunit directly to the chasis with copper wire, made next to no difference.
Any ideas on the noise would be appreciated.
To the people that still have camera issues. are you using the factory camera that came with your vehicle. Or an aftermarket brand. If its aftermarket the camera might be bad. or bad wiring.(Did you wire the power source to the reverse light and not the brake light. also the camera wont turn on if you e brake is engaged.)
If you are using a factory camera you cant go by the wiring that the manual that comes with the radio says. It wrong. you will need to get a rca cable and cut one side and tap into 2 wires by the bcm near the gas/brake pedals.
aust_white said:
Grounded the headunit directly to the chasis with copper wire, made next to no difference.
Any ideas on the noise would be appreciated.
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Click to collapse
That only helps with engine noise.
Turn off Bluetooth and WiFi on the radio and you will hear that the static is gone. There is currently no fix for this.
We were discussing this in this post.
This post to be more specific.
We were looking into rerouting the wires inside this radio. The Bluetooth wire is taped to the top of the am/FM receiver and the WiFi wire route near it as well.
I was going to redo the wiring in my radio but haven't had the time.
KidGixxer said:
To the people that still have camera issues. are you using the factory camera that came with your vehicle. Or an aftermarket brand. If its aftermarket the camera might be bad. or bad wiring.(Did you wire the power source to the reverse light and not the brake light. also the camera wont turn on if you e brake is engaged.)
If you are using a factory camera you cant go by the wiring that the manual that comes with the radio says. It wrong. you will need to get a rca cable and cut one side and tap into 2 wires by the bcm near the gas/brake pedals.
That only helps with engine noise.
Turn off Bluetooth and WiFi on the radio and you will hear that the static is gone. There is currently no fix for this.
We were discussing this in this post.
This post to be more specific.
We were looking into rerouting the wires inside this radio. The Bluetooth wire is taped to the top of the am/FM receiver and the WiFi wire route near it as well.
I was going to redo the wiring in my radio but haven't had the time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately the noise on my unit seems unrelated to Bluetooth or WiFi.
I'll keep digging.
Thanks for your help.
After my car had been unused for a couple of months I got this strange problem. I realize that it might be a hardware fault, but maybe there is some clever solution to override it.
I have always had a small "pop" when turning on the head lights, but now the sound completely dies too. No sound from FM radio or any other music app. But if I put the head unit in standby and then turn it on the sound is back.
Also if I turn mute ON I can hear the sound very, very quiet, but if I turn mute OFF the sound is gone again.
I have tried different MCUs, stock Android 9 and 10, and Malaysk 10, no difference. I have tried to turn brightness adjustment off in MCU settings, instead of being controlled by the head lights.
My head unit is a PX6 MTCE with MTCE_CHS 3.75 MCU.
The head unit is connected to OEM amplifier through fiber optic converter.
Any ideas what to try next?
I am very thankful for any input.
I'd check the optical signal remains when the headlights are on. That will confirm it is nothing downstream of that.
I'd also be checking the voltage drop at the car battery when the lights are turned on. That will give an indication about the *possibility* of the head unit or a specific component of the HU going into a safety mode due to low juice.
Does the same thing happen when just the parking lights rather than the full headlights go on?
Report back on voltage and draw at the car battery if you can and go from there.
Thank you for your input.
I have checked the voltage drop when turning on the headlights, and it's just about 0,1 - 0, 2 V.
Just turning on the parking lights does not kill the sound.
When I start the car I have a much bigger drop, and it doesn't affect the sound, as long as the head lights are turned off.
Since I can hear the sound with really low volume when mute is on, I guess that means that the fiber optic converter works.
You mentioned in your original post that you still had some sound on mute.. agreed with you - wine last night confused me.
You don't say was the voltage actually drops to, just the amount it drops by. But if the car starts, you may assume that it is not charge.
I'm guessing the wrong car is chosen via software for the Canbus. Maybe you can offer more details. That sort of info is free and can help others.
Actual voltage
Car type, model and year
Current canbus car choice in setup
Anything else non standard
Any non standard connections to the wiring looms.
ludditefornow said:
You mentioned in your original post that you still had some sound on mute.. agreed with you - wine last night confused me.
You don't say was the voltage actually drops to, just the amount it drops by. But if the car starts, you may assume that it is not charge.
I'm guessing the wrong car is chosen via software for the Canbus. Maybe you can offer more details. That sort of info is free and can help others.
Actual voltage
Car type, model and year
Current canbus car choice in setup
Anything else non standard
Any non standard connections to the wiring looms.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your suggestions!
I have done some more troubleshooting and now I am thinking that it's more likely to be some kind of grounding issue (or a bad mainboard) than a canbus problem. Because sometimes when I plug in an USB drive or an USB cable (not connected to anything) there is a "bang" and the sound dies, as it does when turning on the head lights.
I made a new grounding wire and mounted it directly to a ground point in the car chassis, instead of using the one from the OEM cable harness., but no difference. Car on or off does not matter and I also tried with an power supply connected to the car battery.
Should I try to ground the head unit better and where to put the wire then? Would the head unit chassis be enough or is it necessary to open it up and connect it somewhere on the mainboard?
I'd be disconnecting as much as possible and just feeding a power ground and an ACC feed.
Hook up speakers only and see what the result is.
Add one component at a time and test again. Might be easier to check initially out of the car and using a constant 12v power source or even an old PC ATX PSU. They have 12v and 5v rails.
I don't think adding more ground will change much.
ludditefornow said:
I'd be disconnecting as much as possible and just feeding a power ground and an ACC feed.
Hook up speakers only and see what the result is.
Add one component at a time and test again. Might be easier to check initially out of the car and using a constant 12v power source or even an old PC ATX PSU. They have 12v and 5v rails.
I don't think adding more ground will change much.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried this yesterday, but with the head unit still in the car. Disconnected everything but the fiber optics converter and power. I had no problems when turning on the head lights, I tried many times. Sound did not die. Still some weird sounds when using USB drive though.
I made an extra wire from the ground wire and mounted it at one of the screws at the back of the head unit. I connected everything back except the FM antenna connector. I suspected it could be interfering because the amplified OEM FM antenna is connected to a control unit in the car which is also managing car lights.
After this I had no problems at all for the rest of the evening. Tried turning on the head lights when driving and with the engine off. Plugged in USB drive and USB cable. Sound dit not die and no noise when using USB.
Today the problem with dying sound when turning on head lights was back.
My feeling is that this issue is much more likely to happen when the head unit (and the car) is cold. If the car has been driven so the temperature inside is around 20 degrees for a period of time, or if it has been standing in the sun so the interior is warm, it is very rare that turning on the head lights affects the sound.