Recently installed a GA9180a for my 2010 Chevy
runs really nice out the box, start up time is around 20 seconds or less
i'm getting some serious electrical interference noise once the car is started and increases with rpm, if the car is off I do not hear it, I believe this is a known issue with the fm antenna adapter. I bought a fm antenna noise filter to fix this hopefully.
ok google commands work well, I was wondering if theres a way to make phone calls, if I tell google to call...it will not dial out just show a phone logo with the contacts name, has anyone been successful with this?
also, want to remove the wire so while reversing audio will not be cut out, i think its an orange wire
anyone know of the standby mode as well, so the unit does not shut off completely when off?
also, need help with and looking to add my OEM GM reverse camera and have to splice into lines
looking to use the stock GM male mini USB adapter to connect to the back of this unit, so the usb in my center console can charge devices
To the poster above me, theres a setting under the CAR category to enable audio while reversing - you shouldnt need to cut any wires.
I bought this same head unit back in may and im just now getting around to installing it into a 2010 silverado without the factory bose option. The instructions that came with it are a joke. On bluetooth only, theres alternator whine thats easy to hear at higher volume levels and BT audio causes the pillar tweeters to clip/crackle/cutout at certain frequencies. This is more pronounced on rock music with drum cymbals, like most five finger death punch tracks. Funny thing is, that completely goes away when listening to the FM radio or any of the apps on the device like spotify. This is tolerable since the only thing i use BT for is making calls through my phone. Phone calls are not so demanding in the quality department and honestly i can live with it.
What im having the worst luck with is the backup camera. Ive got a backup camera hooked to it using the included 'cam' yellow RCA connector. Ive only connected it for testing at this point and with it getting a solid 12v supply right off the battery, its not working with the head unit. The head unit successfully detects reverse and switches to the camera display, but the screen stays black and theres a yellow diamond with an exclamation point at the center of the screen. Switching to any other gear or back to park returns the head unit to whatever screen it was on before. I checked the camera on another screen and it displays fine. Prior to that, I checked the inline fuse and replaced it just to be sure. Ive already gone through the settings in the head unit itself, video while moving is turned on.
Ive read/seen other people with similar head units (joying, etc) having to disconnect an 'orange wire' from the back of the head unit to get backup video to work correctly. HOWEVER, there are only 2 wires going to my head unit that are orange, one is orange/white and handles illumination while the other is orange/black and handles the reverse signal from the vehicle itself. I disconnected the orange/black wire just to see if that was it. It was not. With this wire disconnected the head unit no longer detected when the vehicle was in reverse and the screen never changed when i put the vehicle into reverse.
At this point im thinking theres gotta be a firmware bug, hardware failure on my particular unit or im doing something wrong. The vehicle-radio harness that came with it is plug and play. The camera itself connects with a single RCA plug and has a positive and negative lead for battery power. I dont know WHAT could possibly be connected incorrectly, but its a theory.
My ask here is if anyone has experience with this head unit, or with eonon head units in general. Does anyone have a clue how i could solve this backup camera problem?
FYI:
there is a can bus decoder in the 'plug and play' vehicle-radio harness, disconnecting it causes the head unit to not wake up when the truck turns on.
this is the new and upgraded version from eonon
android 8.0
px5
4gb ram
32gb storage
feellicks said:
My ask here is if anyone has experience with this head unit, or with eonon head units in general. Does anyone have a clue how i could solve this backup camera problem?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just got my unit also and have the exact same problem as you with the reverse camera, also like you i found lots of talk about cutting the orange wire however I wasn't game to do this yet but it seems like that is not the solution.
it sounds like you guys have a OEM back camera and if your backup camera video shows on rear view mirror check this link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iOUzGLevxqU
If your backup camera shows on old OEM radio system, check this link
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EzvycdsdIDA
I did some research but I didn't try it yet. I have backup camera on rear view mirror.
Rear DVD Controls/ DVD Player on 2010 Chevy Avalanche
I recently installed the Eonon GA9180a in my 2010 Chevy Avanlanche with Bose and Rear DVD, first I’m also getting a lot of interference from the radio when the WiFi and Bluetooth are on, wondering if a installing a noise canceling module will fix this? Also I seem to have lost the functions of my rear controls for the DVD players, I’m also wondering if anyone has figured out if this unit allows to watch a movie in the back (rear seat) while listening to music in front main unit?
not sure what you mean by installing a noise cancellation module, i had this unit and I never got the interference noise to go away, I switched a Xtrons unit and it worked well for a couple of months but then the screen went out. I got a replacement but now im getting the same noise interference
Sorry I was talking about a Automotive Noise Suppressor of some sort, just wondering! I really like the deck and features but there are some limitations!
GA9180A
Did you ever get your backup camera to work with the GA9180A?
I have tried it with the regular purple wire "CAN IN" supposed to be "CAM IN". I have tried it as AUXILIARY. I can't get the damn thing to work.
I installed a pumpkin brand in my buick and I had to build my own harness and I got it working first try. This eonon plug and play unit is not working.
If you have it working could you please let me know how. It would be awesome with pictures.
I have the factory bose. I found that ebay instructions were better than Amazon instructions.
They have the purple "CAN IN" plugged into a video out. I don't know why. I would assume that a large number of people are installing a camera and would need to connect the CAM IN into the RCA coming from the camera.
This is the most frustrating install ever. The amazon seller doesn't understand I want a working backup camera.
Eonon says it should work. Nothing more.
Thanks,
Chad
I own a 2013 Silverado with the same radio. The fix is simple.
Engine noise fix.
Take about 6 inches of copper wire. Wrap it around the Sub rca (Blue) coming out the back of the harness and ground it to a screw on the radio. (I drew a red line in the picture showing how to fix it)
If your camera is not working you might have it in the correct rca but the harness might be in the wrong place. the camera wire harness fits into 2 spots on the back of the radio. make sure you put it in the correct slot. look at the picture i posted for your engine noise issue and the correct spot for the harness.
GonzoBean what kind of radio did you have before? if you had a cheap factory radio the basic one chevy gives there is a little more work to get the backup camera to work. Thats if you have a factory backup camera already installed that goes to the mirror. you need to tap into the signal.
**Edit**
2nd picture is for proper wire harness install for bose system.
GA9180A
BIG Thanks for the grounding tip and for the diagram. I am installing a new camera so the feed is coming from the new camera, not the existing wiring harness.
I have tried connecting the camera RCA feed to the "CAN IN" eonon typo should read "CAM IN". The headunit detects when I am in reverse and I get yellow ! triangle.
I have tried connecting the camera RCA feed to the "AUX IN" and then open the "AUX IN" app and I get the yellow ! triangle.
I have tried 2 different backup camera's.
Surely someone has installed a new camera to this unit. Eonon has not been helpful.
Thoughts? Ideas?
Thanks,
Chad
KidGixxer said:
I own a 2013 Silverado with the same radio. The fix is simple.
Engine noise fix.
Take about 6 inches of copper wire. Wrap it around the Sub rca (Blue) coming out the back of the harness and ground it to a screw on the radio. (I drew a red line in the picture showing how to fix it)
If your camera is not working you might have it in the correct rca but the harness might be in the wrong place. the camera wire harness fits into 2 spots on the back of the radio. make sure you put it in the correct slot. look at the picture i posted for your engine noise issue and the correct spot for the harness.
GonzoBean what kind of radio did you have before? if you had a cheap factory radio the basic one chevy gives there is a little more work to get the backup camera to work. Thats if you have a factory backup camera already installed that goes to the mirror. you need to tap into the signal.
**Edit**
2nd picture is for proper wire harness install for bose system.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This image shows which wire is the rear camera in and where the harness should be plugged into.
Did you hook the camera up? rca from camera to radio. Power to reverse light?
Did you go into car settings on radio? code 126 and make sure rudder is on.
Ill be in and out of here all day. So we can get this problem solved for you.
The camera has power it is connected to backup lights. I tried 2 different cameras.
From your picture I have rca plug 10 connected to my backup camera's rca feed. Why is it necessary to plug 11 to 12, 13 to 14, 15 to 16 or is it?
I have also tried my backup camera feed to the AUX IN and use the AUX IN app also without any luck. I had to wire a power line for that test.
Thanks KidGixxer, I was out of town today, but will check into "rudder is on".
I will let you know what I find about "rudder is on"
KidGixxer said:
This image shows which wire is the rear camera in and where the harness should be plugged into.
Did you hook the camera up? rca from camera to radio. Power to reverse light?
Did you go into car settings on radio? code 126 and make sure rudder is on.
Ill be in and out of here all day. So we can get this problem solved for you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello. Same issue as the above posters. I made sure rudder was on and still a failed camera feed with the exclamation point triangle.
The option right above Rudder is what you need to check.
Its called "Prohibit Reverse" Make sure that is off.
And make sure your camera mode is set to "F-CAM"
KidGixxer said:
The option right above Rudder is what you need to check.
Its called "Prohibit Reverse" Make sure that is off.
And make sure your camera mode is set to "F-CAM"
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So I put the "Prohibit Reverse" toggled to off which was default to off. With the cam set to F-Cam. I still have the yellow/red/green grid with a blacked out screen when I go to reverse. Anyone else have this same issue?
Antabolic said:
So I put the "Prohibit Reverse" toggled to off which was default to off. With the cam set to F-Cam. I still have the yellow/red/green grid with a blacked out screen when I go to reverse. Anyone else have this same issue?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you're seeing the green yellow red grid it might be an issue with the camera itself. If the camera was not hooked up you would get a yellow triangle with an exclamation point.
KidGixxer said:
If you're seeing the green yellow red grid it might be an issue with the camera itself. If the camera was not hooked up you would get a yellow triangle with an exclamation point.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It also does that as well. At random it seems, going back and forth between the grid and the triangle
I haven't got the camera issue as I ended up going with an aftermarket reverse camera, but I have an annoying issue with background noise/static.
It seems to be similar to the computer generated noise that cheap/early sound cards had in the background. It's enough to be noticeable if the car is idling and the volume is very low.
It doesn't get worse with speed, it is just a constant background static that seems to be computer generated.
I tried wrapping some shielding around the audio cables, but this made no difference. Grounded the headunit directly to the chasis with copper wire, made next to no difference.
Any ideas on the noise would be appreciated.
To the people that still have camera issues. are you using the factory camera that came with your vehicle. Or an aftermarket brand. If its aftermarket the camera might be bad. or bad wiring.(Did you wire the power source to the reverse light and not the brake light. also the camera wont turn on if you e brake is engaged.)
If you are using a factory camera you cant go by the wiring that the manual that comes with the radio says. It wrong. you will need to get a rca cable and cut one side and tap into 2 wires by the bcm near the gas/brake pedals.
aust_white said:
Grounded the headunit directly to the chasis with copper wire, made next to no difference.
Any ideas on the noise would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That only helps with engine noise.
Turn off Bluetooth and WiFi on the radio and you will hear that the static is gone. There is currently no fix for this.
We were discussing this in this post.
This post to be more specific.
We were looking into rerouting the wires inside this radio. The Bluetooth wire is taped to the top of the am/FM receiver and the WiFi wire route near it as well.
I was going to redo the wiring in my radio but haven't had the time.
KidGixxer said:
To the people that still have camera issues. are you using the factory camera that came with your vehicle. Or an aftermarket brand. If its aftermarket the camera might be bad. or bad wiring.(Did you wire the power source to the reverse light and not the brake light. also the camera wont turn on if you e brake is engaged.)
If you are using a factory camera you cant go by the wiring that the manual that comes with the radio says. It wrong. you will need to get a rca cable and cut one side and tap into 2 wires by the bcm near the gas/brake pedals.
That only helps with engine noise.
Turn off Bluetooth and WiFi on the radio and you will hear that the static is gone. There is currently no fix for this.
We were discussing this in this post.
This post to be more specific.
We were looking into rerouting the wires inside this radio. The Bluetooth wire is taped to the top of the am/FM receiver and the WiFi wire route near it as well.
I was going to redo the wiring in my radio but haven't had the time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately the noise on my unit seems unrelated to Bluetooth or WiFi.
I'll keep digging.
Thanks for your help.
Just thought I’d do a quick write up of how I have today got rid of a bit of interference noise/alternator whine I had on my Audi A3 with Bose and a PX5 Android 8 unit.
It wasn’t a massive nuisance but when the volume was down and you revved the car you could hear it through the speakers.
On the Audi forum everybody that has the Bose system and one of these Chinese android units seemingly gets this problem, some people use noise filters or noise suppressors which does get rid of the problem but it also reduces the quality of your sound.
So today I had some ferrite filters laying about that I had previously bought for something else and thought I would use them on the power cables to the headunit. The A3 has a quadlock connector and then obviously there is the loom that comes with the headunit to plug into the quadlock connector from the headunit.
I used 3 of these ferrite filters altogether. One on the yellow cable from the battery, one on the acc cable and one on the ground cable. I have placed these on each of the cables directly behind the connector that plugs into the headunit so I have placed them on the cables before they split off to other sources.
I then rested the unit back in the dash and started the car and I have perfect sound and have lost no sound quality, if anything it is now better as there is no interference.
If you’re not sure what a ferrite filter is then just type it into eBay or something, they just clip onto the cable and have a magnet inside which draws out the interference and are very cheap. You might have seen them before on power cables or some company’s use them on hdmi cables.
I’d advise anyone to try this that has any alternator whine with one of these android units and especially if you have a factory fitted amp and sub like the Bose ones.
Not working for me
ab1702 said:
Just thought I’d do a quick write up of how I have today got rid of a bit of interference noise/alternator whine I had on my Audi A3 with Bose and a PX5 Android 8 unit.
It wasn’t a massive nuisance but when the volume was down and you revved the car you could hear it through the speakers.
On the Audi forum everybody that has the Bose system and one of these Chinese android units seemingly gets this problem, some people use noise filters or noise suppressors which does get rid of the problem but it also reduces the quality of your sound.
So today I had some ferrite filters laying about that I had previously bought for something else and thought I would use them on the power cables to the headunit. The A3 has a quadlock connector and then obviously there is the loom that comes with the headunit to plug into the quadlock connector from the headunit.
I used 3 of these ferrite filters altogether. One on the yellow cable from the battery, one on the acc cable and one on the ground cable. I have placed these on each of the cables directly behind the connector that plugs into the headunit so I have placed them on the cables before they split off to other sources.
I then rested the unit back in the dash and started the car and I have perfect sound and have lost no sound quality, if anything it is now better as there is no interference.
If you’re not sure what a ferrite filter is then just type it into eBay or something, they just clip onto the cable and have a magnet inside which draws out the interference and are very cheap. You might have seen them before on power cables or some company’s use them on hdmi cables.
I’d advise anyone to try this that has any alternator whine with one of these android units and especially if you have a factory fitted amp and sub like the Bose ones.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought a pack of these from Amazon. In addition to putting one on BATT, ACC, and GND, I sprinkled the ferrite beads onto entire wire bundles and audio signal wires like it was Mardi Gras. The sound was not noticeable when the head unit was sitting on the dash as I installed the beads, but it was there when I reinstalled it into the dash. Still RPM-dependent.
jeffreydbrown said:
I bought a pack of these from Amazon. In addition to putting one on BATT, ACC, and GND, I sprinkled the ferrite beads onto entire wire bundles and audio signal wires like it was Mardi Gras. The sound was not noticeable when the head unit was sitting on the dash as I installed the beads, but it was there when I reinstalled it into the dash. Still RPM-dependent.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey,
I have the same problem. Tried the ground loop isolators - the interference is gone but no bass at all. The ferrite filters didn't work. Does anyone have solution for this ?
Thanks
Hello, sorry for bringing back an older thread but I am currently working to fix this issue myself.
I had alternator whine to begin with and the ground loop isolators sorted that but mfilip, I have no bass at all and the sound quality isn’t all that great.
I have tried some Line-Out Converters and they did nothing but make the problem worse. I am going to get some Ferrite Cores and try them too.
The Bose system worked spot on so I know it’s capable, but something just isn’t right. However years ago I retrofitted an RNS-E in place of an Concert head unit and had this alternator whine, it turned out this was because the Bose pin was not connected correctly. Once I moved this pin to the correct location it worked perfectly, but I can’t seem to understand what to do with this pin with the android head unit as there is no where for it to go?
Have a newer MTCE with rk3399. When I initially installed this unit it was great as I powered the speakers from the built in amp. However after adding sub-woofers I then needed to upgrade mids and highs. I added an amp and now I get an intermittent buzz from front Right channel. i know its not cable interference or even dirty power as i have tested this on a bench as well. if you jiggle the unit (or more specifically the plug with the audio RCAs) the noise will go away. And vice versa . This is the second unit with RCA level outputs that are dirty so im wondering if there is anyone else having issues running an amp from the 4 main RCA audio outs?
Looks like you have found the source of your problem. I can't say my unit has that problem but I will tell you it's not surprising to find cold solder joints on those Chinese units. The problem is the way they get soldered components with large pins don't get hot enough to make a good joint. Just reheat the RCA pins with a soldering iron and add a little bit of solder.
just got done doing just that. going to put her back in my Jeep this evening. ill give the RCAs a little wiggle and see if i get my buzz.
After my car had been unused for a couple of months I got this strange problem. I realize that it might be a hardware fault, but maybe there is some clever solution to override it.
I have always had a small "pop" when turning on the head lights, but now the sound completely dies too. No sound from FM radio or any other music app. But if I put the head unit in standby and then turn it on the sound is back.
Also if I turn mute ON I can hear the sound very, very quiet, but if I turn mute OFF the sound is gone again.
I have tried different MCUs, stock Android 9 and 10, and Malaysk 10, no difference. I have tried to turn brightness adjustment off in MCU settings, instead of being controlled by the head lights.
My head unit is a PX6 MTCE with MTCE_CHS 3.75 MCU.
The head unit is connected to OEM amplifier through fiber optic converter.
Any ideas what to try next?
I am very thankful for any input.
I'd check the optical signal remains when the headlights are on. That will confirm it is nothing downstream of that.
I'd also be checking the voltage drop at the car battery when the lights are turned on. That will give an indication about the *possibility* of the head unit or a specific component of the HU going into a safety mode due to low juice.
Does the same thing happen when just the parking lights rather than the full headlights go on?
Report back on voltage and draw at the car battery if you can and go from there.
Thank you for your input.
I have checked the voltage drop when turning on the headlights, and it's just about 0,1 - 0, 2 V.
Just turning on the parking lights does not kill the sound.
When I start the car I have a much bigger drop, and it doesn't affect the sound, as long as the head lights are turned off.
Since I can hear the sound with really low volume when mute is on, I guess that means that the fiber optic converter works.
You mentioned in your original post that you still had some sound on mute.. agreed with you - wine last night confused me.
You don't say was the voltage actually drops to, just the amount it drops by. But if the car starts, you may assume that it is not charge.
I'm guessing the wrong car is chosen via software for the Canbus. Maybe you can offer more details. That sort of info is free and can help others.
Actual voltage
Car type, model and year
Current canbus car choice in setup
Anything else non standard
Any non standard connections to the wiring looms.
ludditefornow said:
You mentioned in your original post that you still had some sound on mute.. agreed with you - wine last night confused me.
You don't say was the voltage actually drops to, just the amount it drops by. But if the car starts, you may assume that it is not charge.
I'm guessing the wrong car is chosen via software for the Canbus. Maybe you can offer more details. That sort of info is free and can help others.
Actual voltage
Car type, model and year
Current canbus car choice in setup
Anything else non standard
Any non standard connections to the wiring looms.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your suggestions!
I have done some more troubleshooting and now I am thinking that it's more likely to be some kind of grounding issue (or a bad mainboard) than a canbus problem. Because sometimes when I plug in an USB drive or an USB cable (not connected to anything) there is a "bang" and the sound dies, as it does when turning on the head lights.
I made a new grounding wire and mounted it directly to a ground point in the car chassis, instead of using the one from the OEM cable harness., but no difference. Car on or off does not matter and I also tried with an power supply connected to the car battery.
Should I try to ground the head unit better and where to put the wire then? Would the head unit chassis be enough or is it necessary to open it up and connect it somewhere on the mainboard?
I'd be disconnecting as much as possible and just feeding a power ground and an ACC feed.
Hook up speakers only and see what the result is.
Add one component at a time and test again. Might be easier to check initially out of the car and using a constant 12v power source or even an old PC ATX PSU. They have 12v and 5v rails.
I don't think adding more ground will change much.
ludditefornow said:
I'd be disconnecting as much as possible and just feeding a power ground and an ACC feed.
Hook up speakers only and see what the result is.
Add one component at a time and test again. Might be easier to check initially out of the car and using a constant 12v power source or even an old PC ATX PSU. They have 12v and 5v rails.
I don't think adding more ground will change much.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried this yesterday, but with the head unit still in the car. Disconnected everything but the fiber optics converter and power. I had no problems when turning on the head lights, I tried many times. Sound did not die. Still some weird sounds when using USB drive though.
I made an extra wire from the ground wire and mounted it at one of the screws at the back of the head unit. I connected everything back except the FM antenna connector. I suspected it could be interfering because the amplified OEM FM antenna is connected to a control unit in the car which is also managing car lights.
After this I had no problems at all for the rest of the evening. Tried turning on the head lights when driving and with the engine off. Plugged in USB drive and USB cable. Sound dit not die and no noise when using USB.
Today the problem with dying sound when turning on head lights was back.
My feeling is that this issue is much more likely to happen when the head unit (and the car) is cold. If the car has been driven so the temperature inside is around 20 degrees for a period of time, or if it has been standing in the sun so the interior is warm, it is very rare that turning on the head lights affects the sound.
Probably u have heard this already before.
Recently puchased an Aycetry PX6 with DSP HU unit but looks like it's a Wondefoo actually that had a really rough start in the beginning.
Seller told me beforehand that I'll need some adapter to power my half bose system(I didnt really understand this why cause I saw a low of videos with HU's that could power an Audi amp), then when the unit arrived it didnt want to start at all until a car electrician moved a cable to a different pin and reconnected a blackplug into the second one(pictures below)(ACC).
The only thing that remains now is the rear speakers who's volume sounds 30-35% or so lower.
I noticed that if my engine is OFF I dont really have good radio signal. The blue wire that powers the radio antena only has 11.5 V(maybe) in this state. Once I turn ON the engine the blue wire of the radio antena has 13.5V and I have very good radio signal.
I tought something similar is the problem with the rear speakers as well so I measured the blue/white wire that connects to the white cable in the iso harness which should power the amp and in both states of the engine, on or off, I have 13.5V.
So I'm not sure what exactly is the problem here. The seller did offer me some adapter for 10 USD but if the blue/white wire that goes to the white wire in the iso harness already has 13.5V then where exactly is the problem. Or does my amp need more V's?
Please offer some suggetions here.
The unit really sounds good, made a bunch of video upgrading my 1DIN cage to a 2DIN cage and would like to close this matter so I may finish editing my videos.
Rear speakers playing as loud as front speakers will destroy your stereo stage.
So if you are serious about sound guality you want your rear speaker at low volume.
13.5V should not cause any problems. But I would definitely not power any amp from the head unit. Car amps normally have a "remote" signal input that doesn't really pull any power but tells the amp to turn on. Car amps draws a lot of current through a heavy gauge wire directly from the battery.
So I am pretty sure the "amp wire" from your head unit is designed as a remote signal telling the amp to turn on.
Bad things are likely to happen if you draw any significant power through the tiny amp remote wire so I would check how the amp was powered with the OEM headunit and use the OEM power wire. Alternatively you could run a new heavy gauge wire directly from battery to your amps power input.
You could install a simple NO relay to solve the low antenna voltage with engine of problem.
Thank you for your answer.
With the original cd-player front and rear speaker had the same volume. So I guess the audio system was designed to work this way.
However, new HU has a different design which was clear from the start since I had troubles event starting it up and now I must find some way to overcome it.
I was hoping to find someone else that had similar issues.
The low antenna voltage while engine is OFF is not a problem for me. Mostly I listen to music and rarely radio and since the car is ON doesn't really matter.