Probably u have heard this already before.
Recently puchased an Aycetry PX6 with DSP HU unit but looks like it's a Wondefoo actually that had a really rough start in the beginning.
Seller told me beforehand that I'll need some adapter to power my half bose system(I didnt really understand this why cause I saw a low of videos with HU's that could power an Audi amp), then when the unit arrived it didnt want to start at all until a car electrician moved a cable to a different pin and reconnected a blackplug into the second one(pictures below)(ACC).
The only thing that remains now is the rear speakers who's volume sounds 30-35% or so lower.
I noticed that if my engine is OFF I dont really have good radio signal. The blue wire that powers the radio antena only has 11.5 V(maybe) in this state. Once I turn ON the engine the blue wire of the radio antena has 13.5V and I have very good radio signal.
I tought something similar is the problem with the rear speakers as well so I measured the blue/white wire that connects to the white cable in the iso harness which should power the amp and in both states of the engine, on or off, I have 13.5V.
So I'm not sure what exactly is the problem here. The seller did offer me some adapter for 10 USD but if the blue/white wire that goes to the white wire in the iso harness already has 13.5V then where exactly is the problem. Or does my amp need more V's?
Please offer some suggetions here.
The unit really sounds good, made a bunch of video upgrading my 1DIN cage to a 2DIN cage and would like to close this matter so I may finish editing my videos.
Rear speakers playing as loud as front speakers will destroy your stereo stage.
So if you are serious about sound guality you want your rear speaker at low volume.
13.5V should not cause any problems. But I would definitely not power any amp from the head unit. Car amps normally have a "remote" signal input that doesn't really pull any power but tells the amp to turn on. Car amps draws a lot of current through a heavy gauge wire directly from the battery.
So I am pretty sure the "amp wire" from your head unit is designed as a remote signal telling the amp to turn on.
Bad things are likely to happen if you draw any significant power through the tiny amp remote wire so I would check how the amp was powered with the OEM headunit and use the OEM power wire. Alternatively you could run a new heavy gauge wire directly from battery to your amps power input.
You could install a simple NO relay to solve the low antenna voltage with engine of problem.
Thank you for your answer.
With the original cd-player front and rear speaker had the same volume. So I guess the audio system was designed to work this way.
However, new HU has a different design which was clear from the start since I had troubles event starting it up and now I must find some way to overcome it.
I was hoping to find someone else that had similar issues.
The low antenna voltage while engine is OFF is not a problem for me. Mostly I listen to music and rarely radio and since the car is ON doesn't really matter.
Related
I’m new to this and really appreciate any help.
Just recently installed the Xtrons D719AS single din head unit with android 7.1.1 in a new project jeep CJ7 I’m working on with my dad.
We installed it without using an external amp. Wired the speakers directly to the ISO. (Probably both a bad idea)
We tested using the 2 front speakers at first, everything worked and sounded great.
Then we hooked up the rear 2 speakers and tested with all 4 speakers.
It was all working and sounded great for about 10 minutes, then after raising the volume up about half way or so the sound shut off. The radio kept working with no sound. All functions on the radio work fine but not a peep of sound from any source.
We removed all power from the head unit (unplugged ISO) for about 30 minutes, removed rear speakers (tested with only 2 front), did a factory reset on the head unit with no change. Still no sound.
Did we blow something in the radio? Maybe an internal amp fuse?
If we hookup an external amp and use the RCA connections would the sound possibly work? (Bypassing the internal amp I guess).
Also this head unit does not have a blue/white wire for amp. Only a blue wire for ANT. Should the external amp go on the ANT wire or just hook it up to a Accessory/ignition line?
Also can anyone tell me what the pink wire (reverse) is for on the ISO?
Is that for the radio to know when reverse is on for the reverse camera?
I can return (to China) for repair, but would rather try and fix myself if possible.
Just thought I’d do a quick write up of how I have today got rid of a bit of interference noise/alternator whine I had on my Audi A3 with Bose and a PX5 Android 8 unit.
It wasn’t a massive nuisance but when the volume was down and you revved the car you could hear it through the speakers.
On the Audi forum everybody that has the Bose system and one of these Chinese android units seemingly gets this problem, some people use noise filters or noise suppressors which does get rid of the problem but it also reduces the quality of your sound.
So today I had some ferrite filters laying about that I had previously bought for something else and thought I would use them on the power cables to the headunit. The A3 has a quadlock connector and then obviously there is the loom that comes with the headunit to plug into the quadlock connector from the headunit.
I used 3 of these ferrite filters altogether. One on the yellow cable from the battery, one on the acc cable and one on the ground cable. I have placed these on each of the cables directly behind the connector that plugs into the headunit so I have placed them on the cables before they split off to other sources.
I then rested the unit back in the dash and started the car and I have perfect sound and have lost no sound quality, if anything it is now better as there is no interference.
If you’re not sure what a ferrite filter is then just type it into eBay or something, they just clip onto the cable and have a magnet inside which draws out the interference and are very cheap. You might have seen them before on power cables or some company’s use them on hdmi cables.
I’d advise anyone to try this that has any alternator whine with one of these android units and especially if you have a factory fitted amp and sub like the Bose ones.
Not working for me
ab1702 said:
Just thought I’d do a quick write up of how I have today got rid of a bit of interference noise/alternator whine I had on my Audi A3 with Bose and a PX5 Android 8 unit.
It wasn’t a massive nuisance but when the volume was down and you revved the car you could hear it through the speakers.
On the Audi forum everybody that has the Bose system and one of these Chinese android units seemingly gets this problem, some people use noise filters or noise suppressors which does get rid of the problem but it also reduces the quality of your sound.
So today I had some ferrite filters laying about that I had previously bought for something else and thought I would use them on the power cables to the headunit. The A3 has a quadlock connector and then obviously there is the loom that comes with the headunit to plug into the quadlock connector from the headunit.
I used 3 of these ferrite filters altogether. One on the yellow cable from the battery, one on the acc cable and one on the ground cable. I have placed these on each of the cables directly behind the connector that plugs into the headunit so I have placed them on the cables before they split off to other sources.
I then rested the unit back in the dash and started the car and I have perfect sound and have lost no sound quality, if anything it is now better as there is no interference.
If you’re not sure what a ferrite filter is then just type it into eBay or something, they just clip onto the cable and have a magnet inside which draws out the interference and are very cheap. You might have seen them before on power cables or some company’s use them on hdmi cables.
I’d advise anyone to try this that has any alternator whine with one of these android units and especially if you have a factory fitted amp and sub like the Bose ones.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought a pack of these from Amazon. In addition to putting one on BATT, ACC, and GND, I sprinkled the ferrite beads onto entire wire bundles and audio signal wires like it was Mardi Gras. The sound was not noticeable when the head unit was sitting on the dash as I installed the beads, but it was there when I reinstalled it into the dash. Still RPM-dependent.
jeffreydbrown said:
I bought a pack of these from Amazon. In addition to putting one on BATT, ACC, and GND, I sprinkled the ferrite beads onto entire wire bundles and audio signal wires like it was Mardi Gras. The sound was not noticeable when the head unit was sitting on the dash as I installed the beads, but it was there when I reinstalled it into the dash. Still RPM-dependent.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey,
I have the same problem. Tried the ground loop isolators - the interference is gone but no bass at all. The ferrite filters didn't work. Does anyone have solution for this ?
Thanks
Hello, sorry for bringing back an older thread but I am currently working to fix this issue myself.
I had alternator whine to begin with and the ground loop isolators sorted that but mfilip, I have no bass at all and the sound quality isn’t all that great.
I have tried some Line-Out Converters and they did nothing but make the problem worse. I am going to get some Ferrite Cores and try them too.
The Bose system worked spot on so I know it’s capable, but something just isn’t right. However years ago I retrofitted an RNS-E in place of an Concert head unit and had this alternator whine, it turned out this was because the Bose pin was not connected correctly. Once I moved this pin to the correct location it worked perfectly, but I can’t seem to understand what to do with this pin with the android head unit as there is no where for it to go?
I have a joying 4gb/32gb unit for chrysler/wrangler that i just installed a few weeks ago. I have been loving it but suddenly today the rear speakers are making a weird buzzing. When i mute the audio it stops. It happens in z-link and the native radio app. I did recently disassemble it to add rear video monitors but dont have them hooked up yet. Any ideas what is causing and how to fix? It isnt low either its a low buzz and it comes and goes.
If the unit has WiFi built in, that's usually the culprit. Try to move closer to the router or turn off WiFi if you're not using it. Otherwise it might be ground feedback, Walmart has these noise isolation type things that slide on/clip to the wires near the speaker. They're basically just magnets, so you might find something around the house you can use to save the trip. Make sure the radio antenna is firmly pressed in the unit and isn't loose on the car body. Check all your grounds for loose wires or add a braided ground cable from the unit body to a metal component in the dash that is grounded to the chassis "BE CAREFUL NOT TO interfere/ obstruct or otherwise use anything near or connected to any airbag components" and if you cut and spliced the original wiring instead of using an adapter, check your speaker polarity at the unit and make sure you've matched the impedance of the speakers to the unit.
After my car had been unused for a couple of months I got this strange problem. I realize that it might be a hardware fault, but maybe there is some clever solution to override it.
I have always had a small "pop" when turning on the head lights, but now the sound completely dies too. No sound from FM radio or any other music app. But if I put the head unit in standby and then turn it on the sound is back.
Also if I turn mute ON I can hear the sound very, very quiet, but if I turn mute OFF the sound is gone again.
I have tried different MCUs, stock Android 9 and 10, and Malaysk 10, no difference. I have tried to turn brightness adjustment off in MCU settings, instead of being controlled by the head lights.
My head unit is a PX6 MTCE with MTCE_CHS 3.75 MCU.
The head unit is connected to OEM amplifier through fiber optic converter.
Any ideas what to try next?
I am very thankful for any input.
I'd check the optical signal remains when the headlights are on. That will confirm it is nothing downstream of that.
I'd also be checking the voltage drop at the car battery when the lights are turned on. That will give an indication about the *possibility* of the head unit or a specific component of the HU going into a safety mode due to low juice.
Does the same thing happen when just the parking lights rather than the full headlights go on?
Report back on voltage and draw at the car battery if you can and go from there.
Thank you for your input.
I have checked the voltage drop when turning on the headlights, and it's just about 0,1 - 0, 2 V.
Just turning on the parking lights does not kill the sound.
When I start the car I have a much bigger drop, and it doesn't affect the sound, as long as the head lights are turned off.
Since I can hear the sound with really low volume when mute is on, I guess that means that the fiber optic converter works.
You mentioned in your original post that you still had some sound on mute.. agreed with you - wine last night confused me.
You don't say was the voltage actually drops to, just the amount it drops by. But if the car starts, you may assume that it is not charge.
I'm guessing the wrong car is chosen via software for the Canbus. Maybe you can offer more details. That sort of info is free and can help others.
Actual voltage
Car type, model and year
Current canbus car choice in setup
Anything else non standard
Any non standard connections to the wiring looms.
ludditefornow said:
You mentioned in your original post that you still had some sound on mute.. agreed with you - wine last night confused me.
You don't say was the voltage actually drops to, just the amount it drops by. But if the car starts, you may assume that it is not charge.
I'm guessing the wrong car is chosen via software for the Canbus. Maybe you can offer more details. That sort of info is free and can help others.
Actual voltage
Car type, model and year
Current canbus car choice in setup
Anything else non standard
Any non standard connections to the wiring looms.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your suggestions!
I have done some more troubleshooting and now I am thinking that it's more likely to be some kind of grounding issue (or a bad mainboard) than a canbus problem. Because sometimes when I plug in an USB drive or an USB cable (not connected to anything) there is a "bang" and the sound dies, as it does when turning on the head lights.
I made a new grounding wire and mounted it directly to a ground point in the car chassis, instead of using the one from the OEM cable harness., but no difference. Car on or off does not matter and I also tried with an power supply connected to the car battery.
Should I try to ground the head unit better and where to put the wire then? Would the head unit chassis be enough or is it necessary to open it up and connect it somewhere on the mainboard?
I'd be disconnecting as much as possible and just feeding a power ground and an ACC feed.
Hook up speakers only and see what the result is.
Add one component at a time and test again. Might be easier to check initially out of the car and using a constant 12v power source or even an old PC ATX PSU. They have 12v and 5v rails.
I don't think adding more ground will change much.
ludditefornow said:
I'd be disconnecting as much as possible and just feeding a power ground and an ACC feed.
Hook up speakers only and see what the result is.
Add one component at a time and test again. Might be easier to check initially out of the car and using a constant 12v power source or even an old PC ATX PSU. They have 12v and 5v rails.
I don't think adding more ground will change much.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried this yesterday, but with the head unit still in the car. Disconnected everything but the fiber optics converter and power. I had no problems when turning on the head lights, I tried many times. Sound did not die. Still some weird sounds when using USB drive though.
I made an extra wire from the ground wire and mounted it at one of the screws at the back of the head unit. I connected everything back except the FM antenna connector. I suspected it could be interfering because the amplified OEM FM antenna is connected to a control unit in the car which is also managing car lights.
After this I had no problems at all for the rest of the evening. Tried turning on the head lights when driving and with the engine off. Plugged in USB drive and USB cable. Sound dit not die and no noise when using USB.
Today the problem with dying sound when turning on head lights was back.
My feeling is that this issue is much more likely to happen when the head unit (and the car) is cold. If the car has been driven so the temperature inside is around 20 degrees for a period of time, or if it has been standing in the sun so the interior is warm, it is very rare that turning on the head lights affects the sound.
Hi.
I'm quite new in this adventure (LOL)
I have a Belsee android 10 head unit connected to my sound system in a car with DSP and aftermarket amps and speakers (Mazda 6 2017)
a couple of things annoy me and I would like to ask how can I improve the android to work better? Which app I should install it?
Also, have a problem. Sometimes it freezes and has to restart it.
When I turn on the HU the original software is frozen for a while before he kicks on! Is there a way to fix this glitch?
Also what annoys me very much is when I switch off from the android to the normal Original Mazda mod screen Aux music stop playing. Is there something to avoid this?
Also I there anything to have a volume control panel where I can see how much I'm increasing volume? My system is quite loud and I have set the volume to not go above to prevent clipping or distortion and just wanna be safe. Unfortunately, I have to switch to the original OEM from android, the music stops, and then adjust the volume to see what level I am.
Also as the original OEM use a bose amp and now is obviously replaced with aftermarket amps i can't figure out why is my radio and CD/DVD player quieter then AUX output..Anyone knows, please?
I would really appreciate it if someone can give me the best tips and apps to improve the HU.
Thank you!!!
I also have a belsee android unit (on my mazda 3) with aftermarket subs, tweeters and connected to Bose system that has both the Mazda connect & Android o/s. I have experienced similar problems as you - sometimes the original mazda system takes forever to complete it's boot-up. I did upgrade to Mazda connect firmware 74 and that DID help (system responds faster and voice commands function much better) but it has some issues sometimes with the backup camera for some reason As far as the volume issue, i've found that if i don't use steering wheel control for volume but the knob on the center console i get a visual representation of volume from both sides.
You might check to see if your Bose Co-pilot and Centerpoint are disabled. I've found this levels out the volume a little better.
Do you have problems switching between the two o/s's - ie it's easy to get back to the mazda system by touching console favorites button or using the CarUI icon but going back to Android by swiping right hand side of screen doesn't work many times??????
I've also found that sometimes the Driver (left) side of audio on AUX cuts out as if it's not there and reserved for the voice warnings that occur and doesn't come back until restarted.
Does DSP work for you? I can touch the icon for it, it won't launch for me. Also radio is only available on Mazda side and app not there on android side.
eddotykc said:
I also have a belsee android unit (on my mazda 3) with aftermarket subs, tweeters and connected to Bose system that has both the Mazda connect & Android o/s. I have experienced similar problems as you - sometimes the original mazda system takes forever to complete it's boot-up. I did upgrade to Mazda connect firmware 74 and that DID help (system responds faster and voice commands function much better) but it has some issues sometimes with the backup camera for some reason As far as the volume issue, i've found that if i don't use steering wheel control for volume but the knob on the center console i get a visual representation of volume from both sides.
You might check to see if your Bose Co-pilot and Centerpoint are disabled. I've found this levels out the volume a little better.
Do you have problems switching between the two o/s's - ie it's easy to get back to the mazda system by touching console favorites button or using the CarUI icon but going back to Android by swiping right hand side of screen doesn't work many times??????
I've also found that sometimes the Driver (left) side of audio on AUX cuts out as if it's not there and reserved for the voice warnings that occur and doesn't come back until restarted.
Does DSP work for you? I can touch the icon for it, it won't launch for me. Also radio is only available on Mazda side and app not there on android side.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi.Thanks for your reply. I haven't hope anyone will answer!
I would like to update the firmware but I don't know how..Also, I was reading you can jump straight from android 10 to android 12 but i don't know how to.
I have still a problem with the reversing camera sometimes..
There is absolutely poor communication with the Chinese..Their English is like hello. connect to the original radio then ok?... So what the hell that means?!!!!
Also, does the volume button piss me off? Is there a way somehow with some app to get the volume from the OEM screen to transfer to the android?
Also, I have an issue checking the android for clipping by oscilloscope..My focal tweeters sound harsh and sparkling when I increase the volume...I don't know if there has to be a balance between the volume of OEM to volume on AU|X?I ws reading somewhere someone checks the original OEM for clipping and it says there is no clipping on full volume..I have to test it..The problem is I don't know whether to check the voltage from HU before the pre amp or after..I bought an adapter from amazon which on one end is a wire to strip in and another side is RCA female output when I'm running 8 wires into the DSP Focal and then to each amp.
About DSP in android ..Do not use this..Its a crap..I tested with a scope. It's clipping like hell and producing a lot of distortion.
But my main issue is the correct voltage output from HU because if you set the voltage in DSP software on a computer wrongly you by sending to the amps digital clipping....
About the Radio in android, i have only FM which i don't know why because i purchase DAB and install it..Also the DAB is very weak..it may be because of interference from somewhere..
I have as well the problem with the left door speaker cutting of few times..
Would love to move from android 10 to 12 - have you found firmware file to do it?
I actually changed out the back-up camera for a third party model that i can choose from six different views and it works great with both the mazda connect and android.
On the distortion issue, have you checked all the wiring behind glove compartment and heat unit to make sure there isn't a wire exposed potentially causing the distortion. I had a problem on the rca going to an under-seat sub sounding like crap until i wrapped the left and right as they came out of the PAC AOEM line-out converter and ensured it ran opposite of power/ground wiring.
I’m not using PAC.you don’t have to because if you measure the output voltage from hu is only between 0.6-0.8v before the factory preamp .after that is 2.4V so I bought on Amazon just adapter which on one end plug wires and other end rca. Then they run in to the dsp. But what really make my piss of is the volume on radio which is very quiet.I try your tactics without result.I don’t know if the Bose amp increase the volume or… other things have you manage to do the big 3 upgrade?at the moment I have 155amp alternator and second battery at the back xs power 3400 .the thing is I can’t connect alternator to battery as it causing charging eloop malfunkcion.it has to be done somehow to pass the sensor but haven’t figure out test.any idea?also charging screen not ready for I start stop -battery .when I disconnect second battery then fine full ready. It’s the upgrade issue alt to battery or alt? If where can I get bigger one ?
Good Morning!
I have a 2017 Mazda 6 with Bose system and amp & just installed a Belsee android 10 with dual capability to use my factory infotainment + android. Is this the same one ya’ll have? Im also a novice when it comes to all of this so I’m working with a local car stereo shop to figure it all out. 1) We’re either of ya’ll able to plug in the center control knob? Factory system and original screen both had 4pin plugs, but Android has a proprietary plug with 4pin to plug into original infotainment system, so there are no more 4pin ports. 2) when I plug in the RCA cables I get a background static that doesn’t go away — constantly on once the system boots (and is there when I’m on the OEM and Android). Android side base volume is low and I have to crank volume way up to hear. 3) when using wireless Apple car play on Android side and making calls, the receiver gets a horrible immediate echo of their voice. Not sure of the fix for volume and echo, just thought I’d throw it out here if any of you or those on the forum have similar problems or a solution. Thanks!
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Hello stefanek33! Yes, I did buy from Belsee and have been dealing with Rambo since June troubleshooting the issue. It has been very frustrating and I’ve come to the conclusion in my novice mind that the systems are crap. You confirmed it with your professional work on it! I had to look for something because my factory screen crapped out on me — it was going to be $1500 to replace and was backordered by Mazda with unknown stock date so I went looking and found Belsee. Screen size is great but that’s about it. At this point since the factory works, I’m just going to use the thing for the 10.1” screen and get one of those car link adaptors that does the same (android apps, wireless CarPlay) but run it through the factory part and completely ignore the Belsee android (attached the install document and a picture of the split screen android/factory system). All I need to do is figure out how to plug in the center command knob and they plan will work (I think lol).
I’m interested in your suggested fix, but I’m not sure what you mean about the red wire. What is the tau? Do you have a picture example of the wire? I’m sorry — you’re dealing with a complete noob / novice to troubleshooting electronics. Happy holidays!!!
mjs8rkis said:
Hello stefanek33! Yes, I did buy from Belsee and have been dealing with Rambo since June troubleshooting the issue. It has been very frustrating and I’ve come to the conclusion in my novice mind that the systems are crap. You confirmed it with your professional work on it! I had to look for something because my factory screen crapped out on me — it was going to be $1500 to replace and was backordered by Mazda with unknown stock date so I went looking and found Belsee. Screen size is great but that’s about it. At this point since the factory works, I’m just going to use the thing for the 10.1” screen and get one of those car link adaptors that does the same (android apps, wireless CarPlay) but run it through the factory part and completely ignore the Belsee android (attached the install document and a picture of the split screen android/factory system). All I need to do is figure out how to plug in the center command knob and they plan will work (I think lol).
I’m interested in your suggested fix, but I’m not sure what you mean about the red wire. What is the tau? Do you have a picture example of the wire? I’m sorry — you’re dealing with a complete noob / novice to troubleshooting electronics. Happy holidays!!!
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Click to collapse
TAU = Tuner Amplifier Unit. Google is my friend. I’m getting smarter at this by the day! Lol. It’s one thing to work through good quality products that have diagrams and such … but having to pull teeth to get back one to two liners in broken English is very frustrating. Even more so when they say these units are “plug and play” lol
you should recieve this wire ..then connect it and run the rcaback to the unit and connect it in to the AUx in..The central knob i havent got any wires i just use the factory wire from the Radio and connected to the Android ..It mus fit try...Central knob connect to the original location...I was bit strugling too as later i figure out from the Original OEM you have to dismount the metal Unit and fit the android unit on it..Of course Mr Rambo didnt provide scrwews so i have to use my one...When you instal the Android on the metal OEM part then just run the blue wire from the Android and connect to the Metal Unit and you should be okay..
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Stefanek33 said:
you should recieve this wire ..then connect it and run the rcaback to the unit and connect it in to the AUx in..The central knob i havent got any wires i just use the factory wire from the Radio and connected to the Android ..It mus fit try...Central knob connect to the original location...I was bit strugling too as later i figure out from the Original OEM you have to dismount the metal Unit and fit the android unit on it..Of course Mr Rambo didnt provide scrwews so i have to use my one...When you instal the Android on the metal OEM part then just run the blue wire from the Android and connect to the Metal Unit and you should be okay..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah yes, received that connector and ran it through to the Aux in on the Android. I have the static and the low volume and echo on Bluetooth/CarPlay calling still.
For the center control knob, I have this power/4pin connector (attached pic), and I can connect it to the factory, but then the Android blue cable that connect from Android head unit to that 4pin port won’t connect. Will I still get the factory system to show? I’ll need to extend the cable though to get it to plug into the factory since it won’t reach.
Thanks!
The blu cable has nothing to do with the central consol .blue wire from android the second end connect to the metal part of oem.
That’s right. But if I leave blue connected to the metal part of OEM, I have no other place to plug the center console plug. All Rambo told me was to unplug the blue and see what happens lol
I connect the central console back to the OEM metal bracket..I think in my one the 4 pins are positioned on the left back side..How is it look like your metal Bracket from back..Can you make some pic.?
I was able to get the center knob to work! I kept the blue 4 pin cable, but apparently in a previous install the guy helping me ran a separate 8pin cable that didn’t connect to anything, so I found the correct 8pin that is connected to the power cable and it all works. Now I just need to try and solve the echo and static issue. I think if I go the way you did and completely replace the Bose system, it would work — though might end up with the same issue you have. Happy New Year!
How is working aux for you?You have to plug the silly 3.5mm jack in to the aux slot then switch to the Aux on the OEM..When you increase the volume on aux did you hear static noise with or without starting the engine?Please let me know!Its very important!
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Stefanek33 said:
If you can please do that .Do not play any music.Just plug in and increase both volumes on max if you hear any hiss or static noise from tweeters etc...The problem is the 3.5mm jack doesn't have close circuit and I wanna find out if this is the main concern causing the issue...
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Click to collapse
So I plugged red/white RCA connector to the R/W RCA inputs on the android. I immediately began hearing static at low to zero volume. I did not have the 24 pin adapter cable even connected to the right door radio plug. I also did not have the 35mm jack in the aux slot. So I had the static then, and the after, when I plugged the adapter in and the 35mm in the aux slot, static was still there, but my volume was very low. Turning up the volume made static even worse. I heard the static both without and with the engine started.
Thought it interesting that static started immediately when plugging the RCA male to the RCA inputs on the android and didn’t even have the 24 pin adapter connected.
mjs8rkis said:
So I plugged red/white RCA connector to the R/W RCA inputs on the android. I immediately began hearing static at low to zero volume. I did not have the 24 pin adapter cable even connected to the right door radio plug. I also did not have the 35mm jack in the aux slot. So I had the static then, and the after, when I plugged the adapter in and the 35mm in the aux slot, static was still there, but my volume was very low. Turning up the volume made static even worse. I heard the static both without and with the engine started.
Thought it interesting that static started immediately when plugging the RCA male to the RCA inputs on the android and didn’t even have the 24 pin adapter connected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Make some short video and upload on vimeo ..We have to do something with it as Rambo wasnt really honest with as.