Have a newer MTCE with rk3399. When I initially installed this unit it was great as I powered the speakers from the built in amp. However after adding sub-woofers I then needed to upgrade mids and highs. I added an amp and now I get an intermittent buzz from front Right channel. i know its not cable interference or even dirty power as i have tested this on a bench as well. if you jiggle the unit (or more specifically the plug with the audio RCAs) the noise will go away. And vice versa . This is the second unit with RCA level outputs that are dirty so im wondering if there is anyone else having issues running an amp from the 4 main RCA audio outs?
Looks like you have found the source of your problem. I can't say my unit has that problem but I will tell you it's not surprising to find cold solder joints on those Chinese units. The problem is the way they get soldered components with large pins don't get hot enough to make a good joint. Just reheat the RCA pins with a soldering iron and add a little bit of solder.
just got done doing just that. going to put her back in my Jeep this evening. ill give the RCAs a little wiggle and see if i get my buzz.
Related
I use my phone as an audio player quite a bit, but I've recently noticed and issue and I was wondering if anyone else had similar problems or perhaps even overcome them. When I have my Vibrant plugged in to a power source and I plug in my headphones everything sounds fine, but if I'm plugged in to power and connect a line out cable (e.g. a male to male cable for connecting to a car stereo) I get a really nasty hiss as well as other audio artifacts. I have tried numerous combinations of different power and audio cables, headphones, and audio sinks (car stereo, home stereo, computer audio in, etc.), but the result is always consistent.
Power + AUX cable = bad audio
Power + Headphones = Good audio
AUX Cable - Power = Good Audio
Has anyone else seen/solved this with their phones?
I assume you are talking about car charger and aux out and the noise that increases as your speed increases. If that's what you are talking about I get it to. Something needs to be grounded. Exactly what I don't know. I would ask a car audio person. If I'm not mistaken all radio components ie. radio amp are grounded that's why you don't hear it. Let me make this clear nothing is broken. More like this configuration was not planned for. I'm thinking the cig lighter is not grounded by car maker. Hope this helped.
In the car audio world I seem to recall some issues with Pioneer units when an owner somehow accidentally made a bad connection. It seems that a tiny fusible link in the unit would blow, and a ground loop noise would get introduced into the system. The fix was to ground the RCA cable inputs to the stereo chassis.
Not a viable solution in this case. I also recognize this may have little direct bearing on the problem, but wonder if somehow a poor power/audio connector in the unit is/has caused the same sort of problem to rear it's ugly head.
Step 1 I think - Do you have another Aux cable to test that as a poor ground on it may have developed from just bending and twisting in normal use.
Go to radio shack and pick up a ground loop isolator. That will get rid of the feedback noise.
Sent from my SGH-T959 using XDA App
I also have the same sound in my car. I remember way back when I thought I was a cool kid and rocked the big subwoofers in my trunk I had the same noise. Then I learned that you couldn't have the power cable running up to the battery and rca cables going to the head unit next to each other. You had to have them separated meaning one would have to go along driver side n the other along passenger side. I tried that and presto no more noise. Its the interference of electricity generated from the alternator. Hence, Faster the engine/ alternator goes, higher the noise pitch equalling more interferance due to the higher voltage/current running thru the power cable. Sorry for all that useless info lol!! Quick fix is don't have the power cable plugged in at the same time. The sound goes away, for me at least. Hope it works for you. Other than that I wouldn't really know how to fix it with a cell phone unless that isolator thingy that the other guy said to buy would work.
Sent from my SGH-T959 using XDA App
You should tweet @supercurio
if anyone would know, he would
This has nothing to do with software. This is basically electrical interference in audio channel because the audio is not grounded and power plug from cigarette lighter USB is grounded. Get the isolator, they are usually less than $20, just make sure all the inputs/outputs are what's compatible with your setup.
Mine plugs into AUX port on the car, then i have a 3.5mm Y splitter, one end for phone/mp3 player the other for Sat radio.
Thanks for the tips guys; I think I'll pick up an isolator and give that a try. Unfortunately, the local Radio Shack only stocks isolators for RCA jacks, not 3.5mm, so I'll have to wait at least a few more days until it gets here.
The isolator finally showed up, and it worked perfectly. Thanks again for the advice.
Sweet, now get a flux capacitor and find a straight stretch of road. At 88 mph you'll be going at 88mph with a flux capacitor!
Just thought I’d do a quick write up of how I have today got rid of a bit of interference noise/alternator whine I had on my Audi A3 with Bose and a PX5 Android 8 unit.
It wasn’t a massive nuisance but when the volume was down and you revved the car you could hear it through the speakers.
On the Audi forum everybody that has the Bose system and one of these Chinese android units seemingly gets this problem, some people use noise filters or noise suppressors which does get rid of the problem but it also reduces the quality of your sound.
So today I had some ferrite filters laying about that I had previously bought for something else and thought I would use them on the power cables to the headunit. The A3 has a quadlock connector and then obviously there is the loom that comes with the headunit to plug into the quadlock connector from the headunit.
I used 3 of these ferrite filters altogether. One on the yellow cable from the battery, one on the acc cable and one on the ground cable. I have placed these on each of the cables directly behind the connector that plugs into the headunit so I have placed them on the cables before they split off to other sources.
I then rested the unit back in the dash and started the car and I have perfect sound and have lost no sound quality, if anything it is now better as there is no interference.
If you’re not sure what a ferrite filter is then just type it into eBay or something, they just clip onto the cable and have a magnet inside which draws out the interference and are very cheap. You might have seen them before on power cables or some company’s use them on hdmi cables.
I’d advise anyone to try this that has any alternator whine with one of these android units and especially if you have a factory fitted amp and sub like the Bose ones.
Not working for me
ab1702 said:
Just thought I’d do a quick write up of how I have today got rid of a bit of interference noise/alternator whine I had on my Audi A3 with Bose and a PX5 Android 8 unit.
It wasn’t a massive nuisance but when the volume was down and you revved the car you could hear it through the speakers.
On the Audi forum everybody that has the Bose system and one of these Chinese android units seemingly gets this problem, some people use noise filters or noise suppressors which does get rid of the problem but it also reduces the quality of your sound.
So today I had some ferrite filters laying about that I had previously bought for something else and thought I would use them on the power cables to the headunit. The A3 has a quadlock connector and then obviously there is the loom that comes with the headunit to plug into the quadlock connector from the headunit.
I used 3 of these ferrite filters altogether. One on the yellow cable from the battery, one on the acc cable and one on the ground cable. I have placed these on each of the cables directly behind the connector that plugs into the headunit so I have placed them on the cables before they split off to other sources.
I then rested the unit back in the dash and started the car and I have perfect sound and have lost no sound quality, if anything it is now better as there is no interference.
If you’re not sure what a ferrite filter is then just type it into eBay or something, they just clip onto the cable and have a magnet inside which draws out the interference and are very cheap. You might have seen them before on power cables or some company’s use them on hdmi cables.
I’d advise anyone to try this that has any alternator whine with one of these android units and especially if you have a factory fitted amp and sub like the Bose ones.
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Click to collapse
I bought a pack of these from Amazon. In addition to putting one on BATT, ACC, and GND, I sprinkled the ferrite beads onto entire wire bundles and audio signal wires like it was Mardi Gras. The sound was not noticeable when the head unit was sitting on the dash as I installed the beads, but it was there when I reinstalled it into the dash. Still RPM-dependent.
jeffreydbrown said:
I bought a pack of these from Amazon. In addition to putting one on BATT, ACC, and GND, I sprinkled the ferrite beads onto entire wire bundles and audio signal wires like it was Mardi Gras. The sound was not noticeable when the head unit was sitting on the dash as I installed the beads, but it was there when I reinstalled it into the dash. Still RPM-dependent.
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Click to collapse
Hey,
I have the same problem. Tried the ground loop isolators - the interference is gone but no bass at all. The ferrite filters didn't work. Does anyone have solution for this ?
Thanks
Hello, sorry for bringing back an older thread but I am currently working to fix this issue myself.
I had alternator whine to begin with and the ground loop isolators sorted that but mfilip, I have no bass at all and the sound quality isn’t all that great.
I have tried some Line-Out Converters and they did nothing but make the problem worse. I am going to get some Ferrite Cores and try them too.
The Bose system worked spot on so I know it’s capable, but something just isn’t right. However years ago I retrofitted an RNS-E in place of an Concert head unit and had this alternator whine, it turned out this was because the Bose pin was not connected correctly. Once I moved this pin to the correct location it worked perfectly, but I can’t seem to understand what to do with this pin with the android head unit as there is no where for it to go?
I have a joying 4gb/32gb unit for chrysler/wrangler that i just installed a few weeks ago. I have been loving it but suddenly today the rear speakers are making a weird buzzing. When i mute the audio it stops. It happens in z-link and the native radio app. I did recently disassemble it to add rear video monitors but dont have them hooked up yet. Any ideas what is causing and how to fix? It isnt low either its a low buzz and it comes and goes.
If the unit has WiFi built in, that's usually the culprit. Try to move closer to the router or turn off WiFi if you're not using it. Otherwise it might be ground feedback, Walmart has these noise isolation type things that slide on/clip to the wires near the speaker. They're basically just magnets, so you might find something around the house you can use to save the trip. Make sure the radio antenna is firmly pressed in the unit and isn't loose on the car body. Check all your grounds for loose wires or add a braided ground cable from the unit body to a metal component in the dash that is grounded to the chassis "BE CAREFUL NOT TO interfere/ obstruct or otherwise use anything near or connected to any airbag components" and if you cut and spliced the original wiring instead of using an adapter, check your speaker polarity at the unit and make sure you've matched the impedance of the speakers to the unit.
I have a eonon ga9153a wich is a px5 based unit. Lost all sound to the speakers pulled the unit out to test and have sound from the preouts connected to an amplified speaker . Is there anything internal that I can replace like a fuse or something since dealing with eonon support is proving painfully slow and going nowhere.
Wouldn't be a fuse but the problem is very likely a bad solder on the amplifier chip. Just reheat the pins with a soldering iron (not a gun) and apply a little bit of fresh solder. The soldering process they use takes a lot of tuning to get components with large pins soldered right without burning out smaller ones but they skip that and just rework by hand. The problem is their techs don't all have the same skill level.
Thanks for the reply. Seen a youtube video on youtube where it looked like they bypassed a chip with solder. Since the have seemed to stop answering my emails if figure just buy a small amp or open it up to see.
You would need to know what the chip they bypassed does. There's a sound mixer chip/preamp before the power amp that's about all I could see getting bypassed but doing so they would lose sound from other inputs. I'm not sure what you would be looking for in a different amp but if you're going to buy an amp Scosche has a nice compact 4 channel class D amp at a decent price. Just connect that to your speakers and it will fit under the dash.
That's exactly the amp I am looking at . Probably best to just buy that rather then taking the unit apart.
Well if you're not equipped to do soldering that's the easiest solution. Peak power for that amp is closer to 90W just make sure your speakers can handle it.
Hey there, i got a new Tesla Style Radio but have some problems.
Think the small Canbus Box is defect.
If the speaker is connected and i put on an Indicator the Radio is going black.
If the Speaker is not connected, than nearly everything is working normal but all the Signals are gone and PDC is not working.
The little Box is getting really hot - is that normal?
Thanks
Sounds like your shorting it out.
Is the speaker impedance correct and not defective ie shorted, bad crossover etc?
Are all grounds properly connected?
In general...
Everything connected correctly with heavy gauge wire on the V+ and ground inputs.
All grounds should go to a common grounding point to lessen the possibility of ground loops.
Don't daisy chain V+ supply wiring especially with a high wattage amp. A heavy gauge dedicated cable coming directly off the battery is best.
blackhawk said:
Sounds like your shorting it out.
Is the speaker impedance correct and not defective ie shorted, bad crossover etc?
Are all grounds properly connected?
In general...
Everything connected correctly with heavy gauge wire on the V+ and ground inputs.
All grounds should go to a common grounding point to lessen the possibility of ground loops.
Don't daisy chain V+ supply wiring especially with a high wattage amp. A heavy gauge dedicated cable coming directly off the battery is best.
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Click to collapse
Thanks for your answer. But maybe i did not describe it well enough.
The complete Unit is only connected with the Quadlock and with the Canbus Decoder.
At the Decoder there is a little 2 Pin Connector for a small Speaker who just make the Signal Sounds from the Car
I am waiting for a answer from the technician...
hurks said:
Thanks for your answer. But maybe i did not describe it well enough.
The complete Unit is only connected with the Quadlock and with the Canbus Decoder.
At the Decoder there is a little 2 Pin Connector for a small Speaker who just make the Signal Sounds from the Car
I am waiting for a answer from the technician...
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Click to collapse
If you have a DVM measure the resistance between the leads going to the speaker.
See if it's a dead short ie less than 1 ohm.
blackhawk said:
If you have a DVM measure the resistance between the leads going to the speaker.
See if it's a dead short ie less than 1 ohm.
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Click to collapse
The Speaker works, you can hear the Signals but the Radio is going black.
But i will check it.
hurks said:
The Speaker works, you can hear the Signals but the Radio is going black.
But i will check it.
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Make sure the device is connected properly; all grounds are good and V+ wires connected.
A bad crimp maybe? Many times I'll use solder /heat shrink tubing when splicing instead.
Otherwise it sounds like a faulty unit.