Hey there, i got a new Tesla Style Radio but have some problems.
Think the small Canbus Box is defect.
If the speaker is connected and i put on an Indicator the Radio is going black.
If the Speaker is not connected, than nearly everything is working normal but all the Signals are gone and PDC is not working.
The little Box is getting really hot - is that normal?
Thanks
Sounds like your shorting it out.
Is the speaker impedance correct and not defective ie shorted, bad crossover etc?
Are all grounds properly connected?
In general...
Everything connected correctly with heavy gauge wire on the V+ and ground inputs.
All grounds should go to a common grounding point to lessen the possibility of ground loops.
Don't daisy chain V+ supply wiring especially with a high wattage amp. A heavy gauge dedicated cable coming directly off the battery is best.
blackhawk said:
Sounds like your shorting it out.
Is the speaker impedance correct and not defective ie shorted, bad crossover etc?
Are all grounds properly connected?
In general...
Everything connected correctly with heavy gauge wire on the V+ and ground inputs.
All grounds should go to a common grounding point to lessen the possibility of ground loops.
Don't daisy chain V+ supply wiring especially with a high wattage amp. A heavy gauge dedicated cable coming directly off the battery is best.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your answer. But maybe i did not describe it well enough.
The complete Unit is only connected with the Quadlock and with the Canbus Decoder.
At the Decoder there is a little 2 Pin Connector for a small Speaker who just make the Signal Sounds from the Car
I am waiting for a answer from the technician...
hurks said:
Thanks for your answer. But maybe i did not describe it well enough.
The complete Unit is only connected with the Quadlock and with the Canbus Decoder.
At the Decoder there is a little 2 Pin Connector for a small Speaker who just make the Signal Sounds from the Car
I am waiting for a answer from the technician...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you have a DVM measure the resistance between the leads going to the speaker.
See if it's a dead short ie less than 1 ohm.
blackhawk said:
If you have a DVM measure the resistance between the leads going to the speaker.
See if it's a dead short ie less than 1 ohm.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Speaker works, you can hear the Signals but the Radio is going black.
But i will check it.
hurks said:
The Speaker works, you can hear the Signals but the Radio is going black.
But i will check it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Make sure the device is connected properly; all grounds are good and V+ wires connected.
A bad crimp maybe? Many times I'll use solder /heat shrink tubing when splicing instead.
Otherwise it sounds like a faulty unit.
Related
Hi All.
I'm using my TYTN II to listen to radio when I have a long drive. The TYTN II is connect using a FM radio transmitter, with the USB converter.
The problem: When using the Internet, then battery drain is quite fast, especially if you are on the move and the radio signal is not that strong. I tried few USB chargers, and all of them have a DC ripple that effects that sound. When I don't use any charger, the sound on the radio is great, but when I connect the charger then I hear the noise of the alternator.
partial solution: I have opened one of the chargers and installed a 22uH Inductor in series to the power. I have also increased the Cap. from 470uF to 100ouF. This helped but not the desired requirements.
Any one solved this problem? I will be glad to hear nay inputs or ideas on how to solve this.
Thanks.
I had the same problem and installed a ground loop isolator to solve my noise issue. It is installed between the usb adaptor and fm mod to eliminate the noise when charging.
http://www.scosche.com/products/productID/1097
Hope that helps.
Hi Weav2k4.
From your answer I Google it and I found this article:
http://www.tkk.fi/Misc/Electronics/circuits/audio_isolator.html
From there I found an alternative transformer and I have order couple of samples. When I will get them, I will build this and will let you know if it worked...
Thanks.
Ground loop isolator is what you need. Radioshack has one that's decent too. Scosche is good but the build quality can be (not sure about the isolator) a tad flimsy; I had a line out converter from them which worked great but had to be taped together. anyway, about the isolator: they actually decrease sound quality to some extent - but given that you're not using a high end system, there's no way you'll notice a degradation; only an improvement as the alternator whine goes away!
Solution
Hi.
I have finally built the isolator using the transformer that I got. If I use speakers or BT connection I get almost 100% of clear signal, NO alternator noise!!!
When I use my FM transmitter, I get about 90% - 95% of clear noise. That is probably because of the pickup from the FM transmitter. Never the less, the noise is only apparent when I turn the volume in the car high, and I'm not playing anything on my Kaiser. When I play musing or anything else, you don't here that noise at all the the quality is sufficient for Internet radio.
So what did I do and use?
2 x Transformers: http://www.componentsuperstore.com/Store/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductIdentifier=82096ULF3WEMIDCOM5872510
Connection: See bellow picture.
Good luck to you all.
@gidim:
Glad to see you were successful! Nice job on the schematic and information for future DIY'ers out there.
PAC SNI-1/3.5 Noise Filter at Crutchfield for auxiliary stereo input
gidim said:
Hi All.
I'm using my TYTN II to listen to radio when I have a long drive. The TYTN II is connect using a FM radio transmitter, with the USB converter.
The problem: When using the Internet, then battery drain is quite fast, especially if you are on the move and the radio signal is not that strong. I tried few USB chargers, and all of them have a DC ripple that effects that sound. When I don't use any charger, the sound on the radio is great, but when I connect the charger then I hear the noise of the alternator.
partial solution: I have opened one of the chargers and installed a 22uH Inductor in series to the power. I have also increased the Cap. from 470uF to 100ouF. This helped but not the desired requirements.
Any one solved this problem? I will be glad to hear nay inputs or ideas on how to solve this.
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
weav2k4 said:
I had the same problem and installed a ground loop isolator to solve my noise issue. It is installed between the usb adaptor and fm mod to eliminate the noise when charging.
http://www.scosche.com/products/productID/1097
Hope that helps.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great question and solution!
I use an auxiliary input jack on my Eclipse, and had the same issue when trying to use charger with my Zune or my Samsung Helix XM. With the information you two provided, I searched for a solution that would work with 3.5 jack and not require splicing or soldering, and found this PAC SNI-1/3.5 Noise Filter at Crutchfield. I have just ordered it - hope it works well - will report back.
I built a little box with a Meanwell DKE-series DC-DC converter that goes in the glove box. 12V in, + / - 5V out, isolated from ground and no ignition noise in the 5V signal. I put it in a little plastic box with a USB A female jack. They're a little bit expensive but I had some lying around from an old project.
I have my Tilt mounted in a car cradle with a 2-in-1 USB / audio y-cable. Works great for me with no noise when charging.
Have you tried to first check to see if your GROUND is clean?
On my 2007 G35 2nd gen sedan, i use the radio hoooked up to the factory audio/video inputs and i get all sorts of noise.
I know for a FACT the cigerette lighter socket on my car has a very DIRTY ground which is the cause for all the noise.
I also have 0 gauge wire to the trunk for my subwoofer amps, and there is no noise back there when tapping those lines (which go direct ot hte battery).
I realize this thread is referring to the "alternator whine" which I get when charging, but that's not my biggest issue, I constantly get interference from the phone radio itself, you know the sound you get when a phone gets near amplified speakers with poor shielding. Is there a similar solution to get rid of this noise? I have a ground loop isolator to hook up already, just haven't got around to it, but I doubt it will take care of the other interference.
rcm_rx7 said:
I constantly get interference from the phone radio itself, you know the sound you get when a phone gets near amplified speakers with poor shielding. Is there a similar solution to get rid of this noise?
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Click to collapse
That kind of noise is radiated over the air, not conducted through wires, so unless you start putting RF shields around your audio equipment you won't likely get rid of it.
I use my phone as an audio player quite a bit, but I've recently noticed and issue and I was wondering if anyone else had similar problems or perhaps even overcome them. When I have my Vibrant plugged in to a power source and I plug in my headphones everything sounds fine, but if I'm plugged in to power and connect a line out cable (e.g. a male to male cable for connecting to a car stereo) I get a really nasty hiss as well as other audio artifacts. I have tried numerous combinations of different power and audio cables, headphones, and audio sinks (car stereo, home stereo, computer audio in, etc.), but the result is always consistent.
Power + AUX cable = bad audio
Power + Headphones = Good audio
AUX Cable - Power = Good Audio
Has anyone else seen/solved this with their phones?
I assume you are talking about car charger and aux out and the noise that increases as your speed increases. If that's what you are talking about I get it to. Something needs to be grounded. Exactly what I don't know. I would ask a car audio person. If I'm not mistaken all radio components ie. radio amp are grounded that's why you don't hear it. Let me make this clear nothing is broken. More like this configuration was not planned for. I'm thinking the cig lighter is not grounded by car maker. Hope this helped.
In the car audio world I seem to recall some issues with Pioneer units when an owner somehow accidentally made a bad connection. It seems that a tiny fusible link in the unit would blow, and a ground loop noise would get introduced into the system. The fix was to ground the RCA cable inputs to the stereo chassis.
Not a viable solution in this case. I also recognize this may have little direct bearing on the problem, but wonder if somehow a poor power/audio connector in the unit is/has caused the same sort of problem to rear it's ugly head.
Step 1 I think - Do you have another Aux cable to test that as a poor ground on it may have developed from just bending and twisting in normal use.
Go to radio shack and pick up a ground loop isolator. That will get rid of the feedback noise.
Sent from my SGH-T959 using XDA App
I also have the same sound in my car. I remember way back when I thought I was a cool kid and rocked the big subwoofers in my trunk I had the same noise. Then I learned that you couldn't have the power cable running up to the battery and rca cables going to the head unit next to each other. You had to have them separated meaning one would have to go along driver side n the other along passenger side. I tried that and presto no more noise. Its the interference of electricity generated from the alternator. Hence, Faster the engine/ alternator goes, higher the noise pitch equalling more interferance due to the higher voltage/current running thru the power cable. Sorry for all that useless info lol!! Quick fix is don't have the power cable plugged in at the same time. The sound goes away, for me at least. Hope it works for you. Other than that I wouldn't really know how to fix it with a cell phone unless that isolator thingy that the other guy said to buy would work.
Sent from my SGH-T959 using XDA App
You should tweet @supercurio
if anyone would know, he would
This has nothing to do with software. This is basically electrical interference in audio channel because the audio is not grounded and power plug from cigarette lighter USB is grounded. Get the isolator, they are usually less than $20, just make sure all the inputs/outputs are what's compatible with your setup.
Mine plugs into AUX port on the car, then i have a 3.5mm Y splitter, one end for phone/mp3 player the other for Sat radio.
Thanks for the tips guys; I think I'll pick up an isolator and give that a try. Unfortunately, the local Radio Shack only stocks isolators for RCA jacks, not 3.5mm, so I'll have to wait at least a few more days until it gets here.
The isolator finally showed up, and it worked perfectly. Thanks again for the advice.
Sweet, now get a flux capacitor and find a straight stretch of road. At 88 mph you'll be going at 88mph with a flux capacitor!
I have a joying 4gb/32gb unit for chrysler/wrangler that i just installed a few weeks ago. I have been loving it but suddenly today the rear speakers are making a weird buzzing. When i mute the audio it stops. It happens in z-link and the native radio app. I did recently disassemble it to add rear video monitors but dont have them hooked up yet. Any ideas what is causing and how to fix? It isnt low either its a low buzz and it comes and goes.
If the unit has WiFi built in, that's usually the culprit. Try to move closer to the router or turn off WiFi if you're not using it. Otherwise it might be ground feedback, Walmart has these noise isolation type things that slide on/clip to the wires near the speaker. They're basically just magnets, so you might find something around the house you can use to save the trip. Make sure the radio antenna is firmly pressed in the unit and isn't loose on the car body. Check all your grounds for loose wires or add a braided ground cable from the unit body to a metal component in the dash that is grounded to the chassis "BE CAREFUL NOT TO interfere/ obstruct or otherwise use anything near or connected to any airbag components" and if you cut and spliced the original wiring instead of using an adapter, check your speaker polarity at the unit and make sure you've matched the impedance of the speakers to the unit.
Have a newer MTCE with rk3399. When I initially installed this unit it was great as I powered the speakers from the built in amp. However after adding sub-woofers I then needed to upgrade mids and highs. I added an amp and now I get an intermittent buzz from front Right channel. i know its not cable interference or even dirty power as i have tested this on a bench as well. if you jiggle the unit (or more specifically the plug with the audio RCAs) the noise will go away. And vice versa . This is the second unit with RCA level outputs that are dirty so im wondering if there is anyone else having issues running an amp from the 4 main RCA audio outs?
Looks like you have found the source of your problem. I can't say my unit has that problem but I will tell you it's not surprising to find cold solder joints on those Chinese units. The problem is the way they get soldered components with large pins don't get hot enough to make a good joint. Just reheat the RCA pins with a soldering iron and add a little bit of solder.
just got done doing just that. going to put her back in my Jeep this evening. ill give the RCAs a little wiggle and see if i get my buzz.
After my car had been unused for a couple of months I got this strange problem. I realize that it might be a hardware fault, but maybe there is some clever solution to override it.
I have always had a small "pop" when turning on the head lights, but now the sound completely dies too. No sound from FM radio or any other music app. But if I put the head unit in standby and then turn it on the sound is back.
Also if I turn mute ON I can hear the sound very, very quiet, but if I turn mute OFF the sound is gone again.
I have tried different MCUs, stock Android 9 and 10, and Malaysk 10, no difference. I have tried to turn brightness adjustment off in MCU settings, instead of being controlled by the head lights.
My head unit is a PX6 MTCE with MTCE_CHS 3.75 MCU.
The head unit is connected to OEM amplifier through fiber optic converter.
Any ideas what to try next?
I am very thankful for any input.
I'd check the optical signal remains when the headlights are on. That will confirm it is nothing downstream of that.
I'd also be checking the voltage drop at the car battery when the lights are turned on. That will give an indication about the *possibility* of the head unit or a specific component of the HU going into a safety mode due to low juice.
Does the same thing happen when just the parking lights rather than the full headlights go on?
Report back on voltage and draw at the car battery if you can and go from there.
Thank you for your input.
I have checked the voltage drop when turning on the headlights, and it's just about 0,1 - 0, 2 V.
Just turning on the parking lights does not kill the sound.
When I start the car I have a much bigger drop, and it doesn't affect the sound, as long as the head lights are turned off.
Since I can hear the sound with really low volume when mute is on, I guess that means that the fiber optic converter works.
You mentioned in your original post that you still had some sound on mute.. agreed with you - wine last night confused me.
You don't say was the voltage actually drops to, just the amount it drops by. But if the car starts, you may assume that it is not charge.
I'm guessing the wrong car is chosen via software for the Canbus. Maybe you can offer more details. That sort of info is free and can help others.
Actual voltage
Car type, model and year
Current canbus car choice in setup
Anything else non standard
Any non standard connections to the wiring looms.
ludditefornow said:
You mentioned in your original post that you still had some sound on mute.. agreed with you - wine last night confused me.
You don't say was the voltage actually drops to, just the amount it drops by. But if the car starts, you may assume that it is not charge.
I'm guessing the wrong car is chosen via software for the Canbus. Maybe you can offer more details. That sort of info is free and can help others.
Actual voltage
Car type, model and year
Current canbus car choice in setup
Anything else non standard
Any non standard connections to the wiring looms.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your suggestions!
I have done some more troubleshooting and now I am thinking that it's more likely to be some kind of grounding issue (or a bad mainboard) than a canbus problem. Because sometimes when I plug in an USB drive or an USB cable (not connected to anything) there is a "bang" and the sound dies, as it does when turning on the head lights.
I made a new grounding wire and mounted it directly to a ground point in the car chassis, instead of using the one from the OEM cable harness., but no difference. Car on or off does not matter and I also tried with an power supply connected to the car battery.
Should I try to ground the head unit better and where to put the wire then? Would the head unit chassis be enough or is it necessary to open it up and connect it somewhere on the mainboard?
I'd be disconnecting as much as possible and just feeding a power ground and an ACC feed.
Hook up speakers only and see what the result is.
Add one component at a time and test again. Might be easier to check initially out of the car and using a constant 12v power source or even an old PC ATX PSU. They have 12v and 5v rails.
I don't think adding more ground will change much.
ludditefornow said:
I'd be disconnecting as much as possible and just feeding a power ground and an ACC feed.
Hook up speakers only and see what the result is.
Add one component at a time and test again. Might be easier to check initially out of the car and using a constant 12v power source or even an old PC ATX PSU. They have 12v and 5v rails.
I don't think adding more ground will change much.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I tried this yesterday, but with the head unit still in the car. Disconnected everything but the fiber optics converter and power. I had no problems when turning on the head lights, I tried many times. Sound did not die. Still some weird sounds when using USB drive though.
I made an extra wire from the ground wire and mounted it at one of the screws at the back of the head unit. I connected everything back except the FM antenna connector. I suspected it could be interfering because the amplified OEM FM antenna is connected to a control unit in the car which is also managing car lights.
After this I had no problems at all for the rest of the evening. Tried turning on the head lights when driving and with the engine off. Plugged in USB drive and USB cable. Sound dit not die and no noise when using USB.
Today the problem with dying sound when turning on head lights was back.
My feeling is that this issue is much more likely to happen when the head unit (and the car) is cold. If the car has been driven so the temperature inside is around 20 degrees for a period of time, or if it has been standing in the sun so the interior is warm, it is very rare that turning on the head lights affects the sound.