I was hoping someone could help.
I need a new 2 Din, Full Android Car Stereo which satisfies the following:
1) Has 4 channels and a subwoofer out
2) The subwoofer out is of normal voltage (ie 4v or above)
3) There is a built in Gain control for the sub on the head unit
4) There is a built in crossover for the speakers and sub so that not too much bass is going to the speakers and not too much mid/treble is going to the sub
5) the above 2 features will be active and work while using 3rd party apps like poweramp etc
All the other stuff like wifi and bluetooth and OBD2 support is assumed as they all seem to do this.
i would appreciate any advice because whenever i email sellers it takes a day to get back to me every time and the answers are always vague and unclear.
many thanks in advance
2-4 I think you're asking too much at this point.. I don't think any of the chinese Android units can meet these requirements at this point. They have SUB output, but no built in crossover which works out of the box. Some units, I believe MTC of sorts, had the hardware but it wasn't hooked up properly, so some people were able to make it work by soldering in some trace wires on the board and moving two resistors. Not something for anyone unless you have good skills in soldering.
For now, I just use an external 3-way active crossover. It works fine. At the moment I'm using the built in amplifier, but will install an amplifier soon as the built in one isn't very powerful, only about 4x15-18W according to the datasheet of the amp IC they used.
Hilari0 said:
2-4 I think you're asking too much at this point.. I don't think any of the chinese Android units can meet these requirements at this point. They have SUB output, but no built in crossover which works out of the box. Some units, I believe MTC of sorts, had the hardware but it wasn't hooked up properly, so some people were able to make it work by soldering in some trace wires on the board and moving two resistors. Not something for anyone unless you have good skills in soldering.
For now, I just use an external 3-way active crossover. It works fine. At the moment I'm using the built in amplifier, but will install an amplifier soon as the built in one isn't very powerful, only about 4x15-18W according to the datasheet of the amp IC they used.
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Hi mate, thanks for your response.
So what i have at the moment is the head unit below:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01CGA5...483542345&sr=sr-1&keywords=android+car+stereo
A fitter came and set up my sub and amp from my old car. The rca goes straight from the sub out of the unit into the amp at the back which powers the sub.
The problem i am having is that when i want to hear the sub i have to turn the bass up - when i turn the bass up too high the speakers crackle as the equaliser is universal.
Someone recommended me a PAC LD-10 low pass line which will increase the voltage to the amp for my sub and give me a knob to control the level....will fitting this be enough to do the job?
can you send me a link to your 3-way cross over?
thanks
I'm not using a special crossover by any means, just a standard crossover which are readily available. Not sure the specific one I use, but it looks pretty much identical to this one but with a different color:
http://www.lazada.com.ph/boschmann-mobile-audio-electronic-crossover-23-way-xm-3a-9196761.html
The PAC LD-10 will increase the line level yes, so you get a good signal over 4V. As far as I know, this is a pure preamplifier (or signal booster if you will), without any sort of crossover. It has separate controls for left/right, so you can adjust balance, but that's about it. You can read all about it here:
http://www.pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=264&CategoryID=28
You get them on Amazon/ebay for $18.49 plus shipping.
Hilari0 said:
I'm not using a special crossover by any means, just a standard crossover which are readily available. Not sure the specific one I use, but it looks pretty much identical to this one but with a different color:
http://www.lazada.com.ph/boschmann-mobile-audio-electronic-crossover-23-way-xm-3a-9196761.html
The PAC LD-10 will increase the line level yes, so you get a good signal over 4V. As far as I know, this is a pure preamplifier (or signal booster if you will), without any sort of crossover. It has separate controls for left/right, so you can adjust balance, but that's about it. You can read all about it here:
http://www.pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=264&CategoryID=28
You get them on Amazon/ebay for $18.49 plus shipping.
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Thanks mate.
Does the sub-out on my unit not limit the frequency to say 120 or 150 and below? So hopefully i will just need a crossover for the speakers...?
So if i need a PAC LD-10 for the sub and a crossover for the speakers will my battery be able to cope with powering both of those as well as the Head Unit?
When I hooked up the subwoofer in my car to the SUB output on my head unit, it sounded awful. It seemed to play full range sound without any crossover, and the sound was greatly improved when I installed the crossover. I didn't have an issue with it being too low though, so depending on the way your amplifier and head unit is designed, your results may vary. If you plan on using aftermarket amplifiers for all the speakers, I recommend using an external crossover, either one like I use or the one that is built in on the amplifiers themselves, as many come with that already.
Hilari0 said:
When I hooked up the subwoofer in my car to the SUB output on my head unit, it sounded awful. It seemed to play full range sound without any crossover, and the sound was greatly improved when I installed the crossover. I didn't have an issue with it being too low though, so depending on the way your amplifier and head unit is designed, your results may vary. If you plan on using aftermarket amplifiers for all the speakers, I recommend using an external crossover, either one like I use or the one that is built in on the amplifiers themselves, as many come with that already.
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the amp connected to my sub has a built in filter and gain. The gain is on max but i can only hear the sub properly when i turn the bass up on my equaliser, but it still doesnt thump like it did in my old car. The other issue is that the speakers crackles as soon as you start turning the volume up after that. I dont think i need an amp for the speakers as they can even take the Head Units power as they crackle when i turn it up....unless this is becasue the audio quality is so bad.....jesus i never realised this would be so complicated when i had it fitted.
i forgot to remind you as well - will the normal car battery power these devices and headunit...and i also have my amp in the boot...
Speakers will always perform better with a strong amp vs a weak amp. And a weak amp can make good speakers crackle even if they're far from their max power output, due to the amplifier not being able to handle the load. If you have a car with a proprietary amplifier system which uses weird inputs, it may be a challenge to make it work properly and you might be better served replacing that amplifier with an aftermarket one. Don't throw the stock factory amp away, if you ever want to reinstall the OEM system when you sell it or similar. If not, selling it may give a nice income as some of these go for a premium.
---------- Post added at 01:03 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:59 AM ----------
Oh, and yeah. A standard car battery and alternator should be able to handle a normal sized sound system, even if it's aftermarket. I wouldn't be worried about installing a head unit, a 4x50W amp and a monoblock amp for the subwoofer. Perhaps I'd go to the step of installing a capacitor if the subwoofer was more than 200W and the dash lights started dimming, but this is usually only an issue if you install a huge sound system. Normal listening levels never reaches high power demands..
Hilari0 said:
Speakers will always perform better with a strong amp vs a weak amp. And a weak amp can make good speakers crackle even if they're far from their max power output, due to the amplifier not being able to handle the load. If you have a car with a proprietary amplifier system which uses weird inputs, it may be a challenge to make it work properly and you might be better served replacing that amplifier with an aftermarket one. Don't throw the stock factory amp away, if you ever want to reinstall the OEM system when you sell it or similar. If not, selling it may give a nice income as some of these go for a premium.
---------- Post added at 01:03 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:59 AM ----------
Oh, and yeah. A standard car battery and alternator should be able to handle a normal sized sound system, even if it's aftermarket. I wouldn't be worried about installing a head unit, a 4x50W amp and a monoblock amp for the subwoofer. Perhaps I'd go to the step of installing a capacitor if the subwoofer was more than 200W and the dash lights started dimming, but this is usually only an issue if you install a huge sound system. Normal listening levels never reaches high power demands..
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spot on mate - the major issue with my oem kit is that it was fibre optic from the main head unit to the back amp. However the guy that fitted the stereo for me asured me that the power from the HU would be more than enough to power the speakers in the car...looks like he was wrong!
So in summary i can buy one of these as the amp for the 4 speakers
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-JbbC3Sa3qOK/p_500MRVF300/Alpine-MRV-F300.html
And then get the PAC LD-10 for the sub and that should be me done right? In theory...LOL
I don't see any reason why it shouldn't work, but I don't know anything about the headunit you have so I have no idea if it has good or bad preamp outputs. It does look like a pretty standard Rockchip based unit, so I suppose it would work fine.
Powering speakers with the built in amplifier works, but only to a certain point. It's mostly good for your bog standard OEM speakers from a mid to low class vehicle. Anything premium or larger setup in a luxury vehicle typically requires a bit more power than the internal one can give. I know they write 4x50W on the box for the head unit, but that number is a peak output power at 10% THD or something, horribly overrated. hehe. Not sure if your head unit uses the same amp IC as the Joying ones, but I checked the datasheet on that and it was at 4x15W at 4 ohms when it crossed the 0.1% THD mark, and you typically don't want to go beyond that.
Hilari0 said:
I don't see any reason why it shouldn't work, but I don't know anything about the headunit you have so I have no idea if it has good or bad preamp outputs. It does look like a pretty standard Rockchip based unit, so I suppose it would work fine.
Powering speakers with the built in amplifier works, but only to a certain point. It's mostly good for your bog standard OEM speakers from a mid to low class vehicle. Anything premium or larger setup in a luxury vehicle typically requires a bit more power than the internal one can give. I know they write 4x50W on the box for the head unit, but that number is a peak output power at 10% THD or something, horribly overrated. hehe. Not sure if your head unit uses the same amp IC as the Joying ones, but I checked the datasheet on that and it was at 4x15W at 4 ohms when it crossed the 0.1% THD mark, and you typically don't want to go beyond that.
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ok - i have booked in the fitting;
- a 4 x 50w rms amp with variable crossover for the speakers
- Line driver for the sub with variable gain
One more question. I have an RMA set up on the Head Unit. Is there a "best full android head unit" that i can buy and send this one back?
I want the unit with the best balance of being fast cpu (the one i have does lag a bit when trying to go in and out of apps and i am not used to that as i have always had decent android devices - it can be very frustrating), enough ram and 16gb storage minimum and also better sound quality than the one i have.
From what i gather they are all pretty similar in regard to the above but is there one out at the moment which stands out from the rest in terms of sound quality but keeps the full android and decent cpu?
Well, at the moment the best units around is the Intel Sofia based units with 2GB ram, they come with 32GB internal storage as well. I have the Joying JY-UL135N2 and I'm happy with it. As with all of the chinese Android head units, it has a few quirks, but it doesn't have any dealbreaking stuff. Plus it has fully working Bluetooth, just that they removed it from the Settings menu.. hehe. There's a thread here on the forum on how to make the full stock Bluetooth settings open, so that's really great!
Here's my head unit: https://www.carjoying.com/joying-ne...-wifi-mirror-link-entertainment-multimed.html
And here's the thread for full bluetooth: https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...elopment/bluetooth-settings-launcher-t3504526
The biggest problem with it is that it doesn't have a good heatsink on it, so the CPU gets pretty hot. It still performs smoothly, so not a big issue but I don't like that it runs so hot so personally I'm gonna attach an Intel stock CPU cooler from a desktop with thermal epoxy, and that should take care of it.
Hilari0 said:
Well, at the moment the best units around is the Intel Sofia based units with 2GB ram, they come with 32GB internal storage as well. I have the Joying JY-UL135N2 and I'm happy with it. As with all of the chinese Android head units, it has a few quirks, but it doesn't have any dealbreaking stuff. Plus it has fully working Bluetooth, just that they removed it from the Settings menu.. hehe. There's a thread here on the forum on how to make the full stock Bluetooth settings open, so that's really great!
Here's my head unit: https://www.carjoying.com/joying-ne...-wifi-mirror-link-entertainment-multimed.html
And here's the thread for full bluetooth: https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...elopment/bluetooth-settings-launcher-t3504526
The biggest problem with it is that it doesn't have a good heatsink on it, so the CPU gets pretty hot. It still performs smoothly, so not a big issue but I don't like that it runs so hot so personally I'm gonna attach an Intel stock CPU cooler from a desktop with thermal epoxy, and that should take care of it.
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ok great. I appreciate this
so just to clarify, with your stereo, there is no Bluetooth in the settings? So is there no way to pair your phone to make/receive calls unless i use this workaround? Why in the hell would they do that??
Also does this unit have usb flash ports so i can plug my 128gb flash drive in?
Also does it have sub-out?
nk33 said:
ok great. I appreciate this
so just to clarify, with your stereo, there is no Bluetooth in the settings? So is there no way to pair your phone to make/receive calls unless i use this workaround? Why in the hell would they do that??
Also does this unit have usb flash ports so i can plug my 128gb flash drive in?
Also does it have sub-out?
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EDIT
Actually i can see the sub -out.
It says bluetooth 4 on the site....if i only want to use the Bluetooth for making calls etc i am assuming i wont need to do the mod?
i use wifi tethering from my phone anyway - not Bluetooth - i am assuming this stereo will be ok with this.
damn this stereo looks good.
should i be worried about the heat? i am seriously thinking of buying this and getting them to fit it along with the other equipment...and send the other one back for a refund
The bluetooth works out of the box, but it's somewhat limited with their not so good bluetooth dialer app. It works to call and such, and limited pairing, but you only get full use of it if you do the mod mentioned in that thread. It's pretty easy to do that mod though. And yes, it has sub out but there's no built in crossover or anything.
Most likely it will work well despite the heat. In the worst case, would you be comfortable in opening it and installing a heatsink on it? Thermal epoxy seems to be the way to go there, Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive is the one I'm gonna use, just waiting for it to show up in the mail.
http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_alumina_thermal_adhesive.htm
Hilari0 said:
Most likely it will work well despite the heat. In the worst case, would you be comfortable in opening it and installing a heatsink on it? Thermal epoxy seems to be the way to go there, Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive is the one I'm gonna use, just waiting for it to show up in the mail.
http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_alumina_thermal_adhesive.htm
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Ok, I have ordered the head unit you have.
I will ask the fitter if he is willing to add a heatsink for me.
If it has an intel sofia processor… surely the processor has a heatsync gel and hearsink already?? It surely will overheat without one…?
Tell me are the audio specs better than my current unit? What is the rms on the speakers and the sub out voltage?
Sent from my SM-G925F using XDA Free mobile app
I have no idea what the output voltage is on the sub or preamp outputs, but the built in amp is 4x15-18W rms at 0,1 %thd. I can post a datasheet to the amplifier IC they use if you want. The sub output seems loud enough, I just use an active crossover on it with the gain set at 0 db.
@Hilari0 I disagree that the sofia units are the best. Mainly because the whole chipset was a failure and development stopped and you will never get updates and never see android 6 even. So after 2 years it is garbage. Also MTK based quad core units are slightly faster and support Android 6, 4G/LTE etc. natively.
http://www.pcworld.com/article/3063...-tablet-markets-after-cutting-atom-chips.html
I myself bought an Ownice C500 after considering all the options. It was also cheaper and so far there does not seem to be any problems reported. The only downside is that it has 16GB storage, but well I am thinking I will stick in an SD card if it ever becomes a problem.
Also C500 units have a subwoofer out but I don't know if it completely satisfies the requirements of the OP. I just ordered a C500 unit myself and waiting for it although I won't use the subwoofer out.
Just thought I’d do a quick write up of how I have today got rid of a bit of interference noise/alternator whine I had on my Audi A3 with Bose and a PX5 Android 8 unit.
It wasn’t a massive nuisance but when the volume was down and you revved the car you could hear it through the speakers.
On the Audi forum everybody that has the Bose system and one of these Chinese android units seemingly gets this problem, some people use noise filters or noise suppressors which does get rid of the problem but it also reduces the quality of your sound.
So today I had some ferrite filters laying about that I had previously bought for something else and thought I would use them on the power cables to the headunit. The A3 has a quadlock connector and then obviously there is the loom that comes with the headunit to plug into the quadlock connector from the headunit.
I used 3 of these ferrite filters altogether. One on the yellow cable from the battery, one on the acc cable and one on the ground cable. I have placed these on each of the cables directly behind the connector that plugs into the headunit so I have placed them on the cables before they split off to other sources.
I then rested the unit back in the dash and started the car and I have perfect sound and have lost no sound quality, if anything it is now better as there is no interference.
If you’re not sure what a ferrite filter is then just type it into eBay or something, they just clip onto the cable and have a magnet inside which draws out the interference and are very cheap. You might have seen them before on power cables or some company’s use them on hdmi cables.
I’d advise anyone to try this that has any alternator whine with one of these android units and especially if you have a factory fitted amp and sub like the Bose ones.
Not working for me
ab1702 said:
Just thought I’d do a quick write up of how I have today got rid of a bit of interference noise/alternator whine I had on my Audi A3 with Bose and a PX5 Android 8 unit.
It wasn’t a massive nuisance but when the volume was down and you revved the car you could hear it through the speakers.
On the Audi forum everybody that has the Bose system and one of these Chinese android units seemingly gets this problem, some people use noise filters or noise suppressors which does get rid of the problem but it also reduces the quality of your sound.
So today I had some ferrite filters laying about that I had previously bought for something else and thought I would use them on the power cables to the headunit. The A3 has a quadlock connector and then obviously there is the loom that comes with the headunit to plug into the quadlock connector from the headunit.
I used 3 of these ferrite filters altogether. One on the yellow cable from the battery, one on the acc cable and one on the ground cable. I have placed these on each of the cables directly behind the connector that plugs into the headunit so I have placed them on the cables before they split off to other sources.
I then rested the unit back in the dash and started the car and I have perfect sound and have lost no sound quality, if anything it is now better as there is no interference.
If you’re not sure what a ferrite filter is then just type it into eBay or something, they just clip onto the cable and have a magnet inside which draws out the interference and are very cheap. You might have seen them before on power cables or some company’s use them on hdmi cables.
I’d advise anyone to try this that has any alternator whine with one of these android units and especially if you have a factory fitted amp and sub like the Bose ones.
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Click to collapse
I bought a pack of these from Amazon. In addition to putting one on BATT, ACC, and GND, I sprinkled the ferrite beads onto entire wire bundles and audio signal wires like it was Mardi Gras. The sound was not noticeable when the head unit was sitting on the dash as I installed the beads, but it was there when I reinstalled it into the dash. Still RPM-dependent.
jeffreydbrown said:
I bought a pack of these from Amazon. In addition to putting one on BATT, ACC, and GND, I sprinkled the ferrite beads onto entire wire bundles and audio signal wires like it was Mardi Gras. The sound was not noticeable when the head unit was sitting on the dash as I installed the beads, but it was there when I reinstalled it into the dash. Still RPM-dependent.
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Hey,
I have the same problem. Tried the ground loop isolators - the interference is gone but no bass at all. The ferrite filters didn't work. Does anyone have solution for this ?
Thanks
Hello, sorry for bringing back an older thread but I am currently working to fix this issue myself.
I had alternator whine to begin with and the ground loop isolators sorted that but mfilip, I have no bass at all and the sound quality isn’t all that great.
I have tried some Line-Out Converters and they did nothing but make the problem worse. I am going to get some Ferrite Cores and try them too.
The Bose system worked spot on so I know it’s capable, but something just isn’t right. However years ago I retrofitted an RNS-E in place of an Concert head unit and had this alternator whine, it turned out this was because the Bose pin was not connected correctly. Once I moved this pin to the correct location it worked perfectly, but I can’t seem to understand what to do with this pin with the android head unit as there is no where for it to go?
I bought an android head unit from Aliexpress seller. Wiring harness connection is correct,there is no "rustle" sound when defected device running. I infer it is an issue from radio chip or module part.
I am going to replace them with a new ones. Is it useful ? anyone can help ? thank you.
Have you tried hitting it with a hammer or setting fire to it?
If neither works, what does the reseller suggest?
marchnz said:
Have you tried hitting it with a hammer or setting fire to it?
If neither works, what does the reseller suggest?
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Haha,seller told me three possibilities cause this,chip,module, or radio connection problem (something break during break shipping)
Wiggling the wires is not the way to troubleshoot a problem that's what Marchnz was telling you in a funny way. You're not explaining your problem very clearly do you get sound on everything except the radio (meaning FM) or you get no sound at all.
Most times when the wiring is good and there's no sound the problem is with the amplifier chip. It could either be dead or more likely just a broken cold solder joint (the Chinese can't solder worth a crap). You can easily check for that with an amplified speaker (old computer speaker works for that), just connect it to the line out. If you get sound the amplifier chip is not working and you could probably fix it by touching up the solder on the chip pins. They often get cold solder joints on large pins.
If there is no sound from the line outs then you have a much bigger problem and you should likely send it back. I'd suspect the problem is with pre-amp/sound mixer chip. That's a surface mount chip and needs a little bit more skill and equipment to deal with.
Best amp chips? -> Poor sound/audio quality AC7315 / HW8227L (Hactivol 9 inch 1G/16G)
Hi,
I tried to find for relevant threads, but couldn't really find anything, so starting my own.
Are their any comparisons or recommendations on which head unit to get or to look for which amplifier chip?
I just installed my Android head unit with a "AC7315" amplifier chip and I was underwhelmed with the sound quality.
At low/medium volume it is OK, but when you turn it up a little bit the sound gets bad. It's not really distorted, but it just becomes very flat. All the dynamic stuff goes and it becomes a boring sound.
When listening to dance/trance tracks I know very well I can just hear certain parts are "missing". They get lost in the "distortion".
infos:
Android: YT9217C_00005_V003_20190225_HIFI
system: Android 8.1 Go kenel 3.18.22
CAN Pro: Raise-Focus-V4.1-disconnect
FLASH: 16G
cpu: A7 1.3GHz x 4
Capacitance: 10000 UF
Amplifier: AC7315 MOS bile duct 45W X 4
display: 1024*600
MCU1: HW8227L-3.3-SWO-1.9
Is this common with these chinese head units? I have a Ford Fiesta (nov/13) and the standard/stock radio is a lot better. And that stock radio is not considered very good or anything, just a basic entry model.
Question is if there's anything to be gained by getting another Android Head unit? With a different amp chip? Or maybe one which has a 1-DIN or 2-DIN unit accompanying it. (Currently it's just the display with the amp/radio attached to the back of it).
It's this one: https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/32962174349.html
But from last year, so with a 7315 instead of the current 7388 mentioned on that page.
Thanks for helping out,
Opper
i have the same problem and i will try to change amp chip AC7315. but i dont know which it better then AC7315
hkn07 said:
i have the same problem and i will try to change amp chip AC7315. but i dont know which it better then AC7315
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TDA7850 is what you'll want. But only changing the amp chip won't do it. You need to make changes to the surrounding electronics, build an active, temperature-controlled cooling system and an external power supply to run the amp at 17V.
You will also need to replace all the speaker cables in the ISO harness with 18 AWG ones.
Last but not least, you'll need to install and properly configure Viper4Android app.
If you invest about $100 into an active subwoofer - all of the above will make a huge difference in sound quality. I wouldn't try this with a passive sub.
Good luck gents.
ExtremeMOD said:
TDA7850 is what you'll want. But only changing the amp chip won't do it. You need to make changes to the surrounding electronics, build an active, temperature-controlled cooling system and an external power supply to run the amp at 17V.
You will also need to replace all the speaker cables in the ISO harness with 18 AWG ones.
Last but not least, you'll need to install and properly configure Viper4Android app.
If you invest about $100 into an active subwoofer - all of the above will make a huge difference in sound quality. I wouldn't try this with a passive sub.
Good luck gents.
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Replacing the internal power amp and/or doing silly things like running the amp IC at Vmax, won't achieve what a low cost external power amp will.
Running thicker cables to factory speakers will lighten your wallet.
marchnz said:
Replacing the internal power amp and/or doing silly things like running the amp IC at Vmax, won't achieve what a low cost external power amp will.
Running thicker cables to factory speakers will lighten your wallet.
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After research we adjusted the recommended external voltage to 17V. The difference in audio quality was barely audible compared to running it st Vmax. Vmax is 18V for TDA7850.
As for external amp - yes, an easier fix but we'd highly recommend an RCA line driver in between the head unit and the external amp. Even the cheaper ones will make a difference.
If you go this route, remove the internal amp altogether as it's only causing issues like overheating.
As for speaker cables, check the current AWG. We've seen a good number of cars where factory speakers already run on 18 AWG cables. Others are 20 AWG or 22.
ExtremeMOD said:
After research we adjusted the recommended external voltage to 17V. The difference in audio quality was barely audible compared to running it st Vmax. Vmax is 18V for TDA7850.
As for external amp - yes, an easier fix but we'd highly recommend an RCA line driver in between the head unit and the external amp. Even the cheaper ones will make a difference.
If you go this route, remove the internal amp altogether as it's only causing issues like overheating.
As for speaker cables, check the current AWG. We've seen a good number of cars where factory speakers already run on 18 AWG cables. Others are 20 AWG or 22.
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Click to collapse
Hi.
I am also looking to remove my internal amp and do the RCA mod.
Are there any info on how to do this RCA mod?
Do you simply solder rca cables to Input 1 and 2 where the amp was and the shield to chassis?
I have a MTK8667 Android head unit.
alli2501 said:
Hi.
I am also looking to remove my internal amp and do the RCA mod.
Are there any info on how to do this RCA mod?
Do you simply solder rca cables to Input 1 and 2 where the amp was and the shield to chassis?
I have a MTK8667 Android head unit.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The lighter version of the mod requires removal of the internal amp. The more in-depth mod requires replacing a considerable number of components on the motherboard, like resistors, capacitors and potentially adding EMI shielding.
You do not need to solder cables at all for the lighter version of the mod.
The information on the advanced version of the mod can be found here: link.