I am replacing an old 4.4.2 Joying head unit with their new px5 4GB unit.
The wiring diagrams are identical as are the wiring harnesses so I figured I could just unplug the iso connection from the old and plug the new one in.
I get power but no audio. The external factory amp doesn’t seem to be powering on because with the old I would get a slight sound in the speakers as the head unit came fully on in the main screen.
Any ideas? I was going to start testing the pin outs but I just don’t get what could be different.
TheCleaner said:
I am replacing an old 4.4.2 Joying head unit with their new px5 4GB unit.
The wiring diagrams are identical as are the wiring harnesses so I figured I could just unplug the iso connection from the old and plug the new one in.
I get power but no audio. The external factory amp doesn’t seem to be powering on because with the old I would get a slight sound in the speakers as the head unit came fully on in the main screen.
Any ideas? I was going to start testing the pin outs but I just don’t get what could be different.
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Click to collapse
FYI, to close this out for others. The issue was the AMP CONT pin wasn't supplying 12 volts with the radio on. Tested with a multimeter. Frustrating, and trying to deal with Joying support to send something like this back to China is a PITA.
So, to deal with it I ended up cutting AMP CONT right before the fuse, and then splicing it into the red/accessory wire. Same effect. Good to go now.
TheCleaner said:
FYI, to close this out for others. The issue was the AMP CONT pin wasn't supplying 12 volts with the radio on. Tested with a multimeter. Frustrating, and trying to deal with Joying support to send something like this back to China is a PITA.
So, to deal with it I ended up cutting AMP CONT right before the fuse, and then splicing it into the red/accessory wire. Same effect. Good to go now.
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Click to collapse
Same problem here. I emailed joying support no help yet. I was looking for a setting in car setup that used to be in the android 6 units to tell it you wanted the external amp trigger enabled - I could not find that setting in the new Joying Android 8 unit.
sounds exactly like my issue I have posted on Joying forums and have a long chat with Candy at Joying. I am at a loss because the radio app when it comes on plays just fine via my external amp and sub. But when I switch to spotify or bluetooth audio. I get nothing. then if I mute and unmute I get audio to my front and rears but nothing to my subwoofer. I was looking for the external amp settings like I had in my 6.1 Android unit. Nothing. Dont want to send it back because it is fast and looks great. If I do send it back, I am just going to go with Seicane.
Hello all this worked for me. Try taking the top cover off the head unit and look on the board for the round sticker on top of the MCU (in my case the sticker said TP6735D v43-6686) and search the sticker info. Download only the MCU update with the same sticker info (in my case I needed TP6735D v43) after update the sound is working again. Not sure why the website MCU update takes out the sound. Good thing is, you can rollback . Hope this helps.
Playing music from USB will wake our factory amp, but radio station music does not. What would cause this? Is there a way to get radio to wake amp? I think(?) Amp Cont wire is unconnected.
I have a new Android head unit but once I installed it I am getting no sound. Investigating the problem I found that the Amp control wire was not going high (12v) and therefore there is no sound as the amps aren't activated.
I believe this is a software problem since the Amp control pin is not completely open. Also I noticed that the sound control page is not complete as there is not any controls for balance or fade.
I do not have any tech support for this item but need to find a way to fix the software load.
The unit is a 7089C unit running Android 8.1, installed in a C6 Corvette.
Software load:
Android: YT9213A_00009_V001_20191126
XY Auto: 3.1
Gerbil
Would installing a different launcher possible solve this problem?
No, the MCU is what controls that function. An MCU update could fix the problem if it is a software issue. I don't know how you tested the control pin but short of hooking up an oscilloscope to it you can't really tell what is on it. It could be a resistive or broken solder joint that kills the output. MTC units have a setting to use factory amp maybe yours has something like that.
nic2k said:
No, the MCU is what controls that function. An MCU update could fix the problem if it is a software issue. I don't know how you tested the control pin but short of hooking up an oscilloscope to it you can't really tell what is on it. It could be a resistive or broken solder joint that kills the output. MTC units have a setting to use factory amp maybe yours has something like that.
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Click to collapse
Thank you for the response.
I just read the output of the pin with a meter. It did not read zero but did not register over 1vdc though. Because there was a little something there I assume the connections are complete in the head unit but I suppose I could be reading into the radio harness adapter unit. I have not thought of trying to see what I would see with the scope.
My next step to try is to put a 12vdc on the amp control line to see if the head unit is actually putting out sound. I am also going to see if the unit can be returned for replacement.
I've never had this happen like this before.
Hey all,
I upgraded from a PX5 Xtrons. Had no issues with it.
When volume is muted, there's no sound. When on 1 or higher, there's a background fuzz. Not static but just a general oldschool hifi 'furry' sound. It doesn't get louder if I turn the volume up. I've tried unplugging everything but the main harness. Doesn't matter if the engine is running or not.
I'm using the Xtrons harness because I didn't want to have to run a whole new one to the boot where the factory amp is. It looks like there's a couple of pins different too. Hoping it's not that...
Any ideas?
Thanks.
Honestly most of these units in my experience have some. WiFi, cell phones, radio etc can sometimes be picked up by the amplifier circuit and you'll hear their resonate frequencies through the car stereo (turn any stereo up loud and put a phone near the active input cable... you'll hear it). Honestly the best thing you can do is make sure the radio is grounded to your chassis directly, that way a lot of these spurious signals are filtered properly and their pesky resonates cease to exist!
Oh and it usually quits when you turn it to 0 because it actually completely shuts down the amplifier...
Thanks for the response. I’ll pull the head unit out at some stage and try and ground it. If it fixes it I’ll report back. Thanks again.
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Hi.
I'm quite new in this adventure (LOL)
I have a Belsee android 10 head unit connected to my sound system in a car with DSP and aftermarket amps and speakers (Mazda 6 2017)
a couple of things annoy me and I would like to ask how can I improve the android to work better? Which app I should install it?
Also, have a problem. Sometimes it freezes and has to restart it.
When I turn on the HU the original software is frozen for a while before he kicks on! Is there a way to fix this glitch?
Also what annoys me very much is when I switch off from the android to the normal Original Mazda mod screen Aux music stop playing. Is there something to avoid this?
Also I there anything to have a volume control panel where I can see how much I'm increasing volume? My system is quite loud and I have set the volume to not go above to prevent clipping or distortion and just wanna be safe. Unfortunately, I have to switch to the original OEM from android, the music stops, and then adjust the volume to see what level I am.
Also as the original OEM use a bose amp and now is obviously replaced with aftermarket amps i can't figure out why is my radio and CD/DVD player quieter then AUX output..Anyone knows, please?
I would really appreciate it if someone can give me the best tips and apps to improve the HU.
Thank you!!!
I also have a belsee android unit (on my mazda 3) with aftermarket subs, tweeters and connected to Bose system that has both the Mazda connect & Android o/s. I have experienced similar problems as you - sometimes the original mazda system takes forever to complete it's boot-up. I did upgrade to Mazda connect firmware 74 and that DID help (system responds faster and voice commands function much better) but it has some issues sometimes with the backup camera for some reason As far as the volume issue, i've found that if i don't use steering wheel control for volume but the knob on the center console i get a visual representation of volume from both sides.
You might check to see if your Bose Co-pilot and Centerpoint are disabled. I've found this levels out the volume a little better.
Do you have problems switching between the two o/s's - ie it's easy to get back to the mazda system by touching console favorites button or using the CarUI icon but going back to Android by swiping right hand side of screen doesn't work many times??????
I've also found that sometimes the Driver (left) side of audio on AUX cuts out as if it's not there and reserved for the voice warnings that occur and doesn't come back until restarted.
Does DSP work for you? I can touch the icon for it, it won't launch for me. Also radio is only available on Mazda side and app not there on android side.
eddotykc said:
I also have a belsee android unit (on my mazda 3) with aftermarket subs, tweeters and connected to Bose system that has both the Mazda connect & Android o/s. I have experienced similar problems as you - sometimes the original mazda system takes forever to complete it's boot-up. I did upgrade to Mazda connect firmware 74 and that DID help (system responds faster and voice commands function much better) but it has some issues sometimes with the backup camera for some reason As far as the volume issue, i've found that if i don't use steering wheel control for volume but the knob on the center console i get a visual representation of volume from both sides.
You might check to see if your Bose Co-pilot and Centerpoint are disabled. I've found this levels out the volume a little better.
Do you have problems switching between the two o/s's - ie it's easy to get back to the mazda system by touching console favorites button or using the CarUI icon but going back to Android by swiping right hand side of screen doesn't work many times??????
I've also found that sometimes the Driver (left) side of audio on AUX cuts out as if it's not there and reserved for the voice warnings that occur and doesn't come back until restarted.
Does DSP work for you? I can touch the icon for it, it won't launch for me. Also radio is only available on Mazda side and app not there on android side.
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Click to collapse
Hi.Thanks for your reply. I haven't hope anyone will answer!
I would like to update the firmware but I don't know how..Also, I was reading you can jump straight from android 10 to android 12 but i don't know how to.
I have still a problem with the reversing camera sometimes..
There is absolutely poor communication with the Chinese..Their English is like hello. connect to the original radio then ok?... So what the hell that means?!!!!
Also, does the volume button piss me off? Is there a way somehow with some app to get the volume from the OEM screen to transfer to the android?
Also, I have an issue checking the android for clipping by oscilloscope..My focal tweeters sound harsh and sparkling when I increase the volume...I don't know if there has to be a balance between the volume of OEM to volume on AU|X?I ws reading somewhere someone checks the original OEM for clipping and it says there is no clipping on full volume..I have to test it..The problem is I don't know whether to check the voltage from HU before the pre amp or after..I bought an adapter from amazon which on one end is a wire to strip in and another side is RCA female output when I'm running 8 wires into the DSP Focal and then to each amp.
About DSP in android ..Do not use this..Its a crap..I tested with a scope. It's clipping like hell and producing a lot of distortion.
But my main issue is the correct voltage output from HU because if you set the voltage in DSP software on a computer wrongly you by sending to the amps digital clipping....
About the Radio in android, i have only FM which i don't know why because i purchase DAB and install it..Also the DAB is very weak..it may be because of interference from somewhere..
I have as well the problem with the left door speaker cutting of few times..
Would love to move from android 10 to 12 - have you found firmware file to do it?
I actually changed out the back-up camera for a third party model that i can choose from six different views and it works great with both the mazda connect and android.
On the distortion issue, have you checked all the wiring behind glove compartment and heat unit to make sure there isn't a wire exposed potentially causing the distortion. I had a problem on the rca going to an under-seat sub sounding like crap until i wrapped the left and right as they came out of the PAC AOEM line-out converter and ensured it ran opposite of power/ground wiring.
I’m not using PAC.you don’t have to because if you measure the output voltage from hu is only between 0.6-0.8v before the factory preamp .after that is 2.4V so I bought on Amazon just adapter which on one end plug wires and other end rca. Then they run in to the dsp. But what really make my piss of is the volume on radio which is very quiet.I try your tactics without result.I don’t know if the Bose amp increase the volume or… other things have you manage to do the big 3 upgrade?at the moment I have 155amp alternator and second battery at the back xs power 3400 .the thing is I can’t connect alternator to battery as it causing charging eloop malfunkcion.it has to be done somehow to pass the sensor but haven’t figure out test.any idea?also charging screen not ready for I start stop -battery .when I disconnect second battery then fine full ready. It’s the upgrade issue alt to battery or alt? If where can I get bigger one ?
Good Morning!
I have a 2017 Mazda 6 with Bose system and amp & just installed a Belsee android 10 with dual capability to use my factory infotainment + android. Is this the same one ya’ll have? Im also a novice when it comes to all of this so I’m working with a local car stereo shop to figure it all out. 1) We’re either of ya’ll able to plug in the center control knob? Factory system and original screen both had 4pin plugs, but Android has a proprietary plug with 4pin to plug into original infotainment system, so there are no more 4pin ports. 2) when I plug in the RCA cables I get a background static that doesn’t go away — constantly on once the system boots (and is there when I’m on the OEM and Android). Android side base volume is low and I have to crank volume way up to hear. 3) when using wireless Apple car play on Android side and making calls, the receiver gets a horrible immediate echo of their voice. Not sure of the fix for volume and echo, just thought I’d throw it out here if any of you or those on the forum have similar problems or a solution. Thanks!
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Hello stefanek33! Yes, I did buy from Belsee and have been dealing with Rambo since June troubleshooting the issue. It has been very frustrating and I’ve come to the conclusion in my novice mind that the systems are crap. You confirmed it with your professional work on it! I had to look for something because my factory screen crapped out on me — it was going to be $1500 to replace and was backordered by Mazda with unknown stock date so I went looking and found Belsee. Screen size is great but that’s about it. At this point since the factory works, I’m just going to use the thing for the 10.1” screen and get one of those car link adaptors that does the same (android apps, wireless CarPlay) but run it through the factory part and completely ignore the Belsee android (attached the install document and a picture of the split screen android/factory system). All I need to do is figure out how to plug in the center command knob and they plan will work (I think lol).
I’m interested in your suggested fix, but I’m not sure what you mean about the red wire. What is the tau? Do you have a picture example of the wire? I’m sorry — you’re dealing with a complete noob / novice to troubleshooting electronics. Happy holidays!!!
mjs8rkis said:
Hello stefanek33! Yes, I did buy from Belsee and have been dealing with Rambo since June troubleshooting the issue. It has been very frustrating and I’ve come to the conclusion in my novice mind that the systems are crap. You confirmed it with your professional work on it! I had to look for something because my factory screen crapped out on me — it was going to be $1500 to replace and was backordered by Mazda with unknown stock date so I went looking and found Belsee. Screen size is great but that’s about it. At this point since the factory works, I’m just going to use the thing for the 10.1” screen and get one of those car link adaptors that does the same (android apps, wireless CarPlay) but run it through the factory part and completely ignore the Belsee android (attached the install document and a picture of the split screen android/factory system). All I need to do is figure out how to plug in the center command knob and they plan will work (I think lol).
I’m interested in your suggested fix, but I’m not sure what you mean about the red wire. What is the tau? Do you have a picture example of the wire? I’m sorry — you’re dealing with a complete noob / novice to troubleshooting electronics. Happy holidays!!!
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Click to collapse
TAU = Tuner Amplifier Unit. Google is my friend. I’m getting smarter at this by the day! Lol. It’s one thing to work through good quality products that have diagrams and such … but having to pull teeth to get back one to two liners in broken English is very frustrating. Even more so when they say these units are “plug and play” lol
you should recieve this wire ..then connect it and run the rcaback to the unit and connect it in to the AUx in..The central knob i havent got any wires i just use the factory wire from the Radio and connected to the Android ..It mus fit try...Central knob connect to the original location...I was bit strugling too as later i figure out from the Original OEM you have to dismount the metal Unit and fit the android unit on it..Of course Mr Rambo didnt provide scrwews so i have to use my one...When you instal the Android on the metal OEM part then just run the blue wire from the Android and connect to the Metal Unit and you should be okay..
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Stefanek33 said:
you should recieve this wire ..then connect it and run the rcaback to the unit and connect it in to the AUx in..The central knob i havent got any wires i just use the factory wire from the Radio and connected to the Android ..It mus fit try...Central knob connect to the original location...I was bit strugling too as later i figure out from the Original OEM you have to dismount the metal Unit and fit the android unit on it..Of course Mr Rambo didnt provide scrwews so i have to use my one...When you instal the Android on the metal OEM part then just run the blue wire from the Android and connect to the Metal Unit and you should be okay..
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Click to collapse
Ah yes, received that connector and ran it through to the Aux in on the Android. I have the static and the low volume and echo on Bluetooth/CarPlay calling still.
For the center control knob, I have this power/4pin connector (attached pic), and I can connect it to the factory, but then the Android blue cable that connect from Android head unit to that 4pin port won’t connect. Will I still get the factory system to show? I’ll need to extend the cable though to get it to plug into the factory since it won’t reach.
Thanks!
The blu cable has nothing to do with the central consol .blue wire from android the second end connect to the metal part of oem.
That’s right. But if I leave blue connected to the metal part of OEM, I have no other place to plug the center console plug. All Rambo told me was to unplug the blue and see what happens lol
I connect the central console back to the OEM metal bracket..I think in my one the 4 pins are positioned on the left back side..How is it look like your metal Bracket from back..Can you make some pic.?
I was able to get the center knob to work! I kept the blue 4 pin cable, but apparently in a previous install the guy helping me ran a separate 8pin cable that didn’t connect to anything, so I found the correct 8pin that is connected to the power cable and it all works. Now I just need to try and solve the echo and static issue. I think if I go the way you did and completely replace the Bose system, it would work — though might end up with the same issue you have. Happy New Year!
How is working aux for you?You have to plug the silly 3.5mm jack in to the aux slot then switch to the Aux on the OEM..When you increase the volume on aux did you hear static noise with or without starting the engine?Please let me know!Its very important!
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Stefanek33 said:
If you can please do that .Do not play any music.Just plug in and increase both volumes on max if you hear any hiss or static noise from tweeters etc...The problem is the 3.5mm jack doesn't have close circuit and I wanna find out if this is the main concern causing the issue...
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So I plugged red/white RCA connector to the R/W RCA inputs on the android. I immediately began hearing static at low to zero volume. I did not have the 24 pin adapter cable even connected to the right door radio plug. I also did not have the 35mm jack in the aux slot. So I had the static then, and the after, when I plugged the adapter in and the 35mm in the aux slot, static was still there, but my volume was very low. Turning up the volume made static even worse. I heard the static both without and with the engine started.
Thought it interesting that static started immediately when plugging the RCA male to the RCA inputs on the android and didn’t even have the 24 pin adapter connected.
mjs8rkis said:
So I plugged red/white RCA connector to the R/W RCA inputs on the android. I immediately began hearing static at low to zero volume. I did not have the 24 pin adapter cable even connected to the right door radio plug. I also did not have the 35mm jack in the aux slot. So I had the static then, and the after, when I plugged the adapter in and the 35mm in the aux slot, static was still there, but my volume was very low. Turning up the volume made static even worse. I heard the static both without and with the engine started.
Thought it interesting that static started immediately when plugging the RCA male to the RCA inputs on the android and didn’t even have the 24 pin adapter connected.
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Make some short video and upload on vimeo ..We have to do something with it as Rambo wasnt really honest with as.
Hi Guys,
A while back, I purchased the T10 unit from Srnubi. It worked perfectly for day 1. All speakers working, subwoofer was loud, everything was great. I came back to the car the next day and there was 0 subwoofer! Nothing was changed, everything normal so I started trouble shooting and I testing turning the bass up on the DSP to max, only then I could very faintly hear the Sub working. I figured I would try to reset the unit in hopes that it would work but now I have a factory android head unit with no running software (except the android auto and carplay software) and still next to no subwoofer output. This lead me to believe that the subwoofer out RCA is not working. I tested all RCA's and they're all very faint (I'm running the speakers from an amp which is connected to the head units speaker wire as the chanels). Has anyone had this issue before and is there a way I can fix the RCA Output without opening up the headunit and looking for faults on the board? And how do I install the firmware that Srnubi has sent through? They've completely stopped replying to me and didn't provide any instruction, worst part is they waited until my 15 days was over to stop replying and now I can't raise a dispute on AliExpress.
Any help would be much appreciated!
Cheers!
rorschach_96 said:
Hi Guys,
A while back, I purchased the T10 unit from Srnubi. It worked perfectly for day 1. All speakers working, subwoofer was loud, everything was great. I came back to the car the next day and there was 0 subwoofer! Nothing was changed, everything normal so I started trouble shooting and I testing turning the bass up on the DSP to max, only then I could very faintly hear the Sub working. I figured I would try to reset the unit in hopes that it would work but now I have a factory android head unit with no running software (except the android auto and carplay software) and still next to no subwoofer output. This lead me to believe that the subwoofer out RCA is not working. I tested all RCA's and they're all very faint (I'm running the speakers from an amp which is connected to the head units speaker wire as the chanels). Has anyone had this issue before and is there a way I can fix the RCA Output without opening up the headunit and looking for faults on the board? And how do I install the firmware that Srnubi has sent through? They've completely stopped replying to me and didn't provide any instruction, worst part is they waited until my 15 days was over to stop replying and now I can't raise a dispute on AliExpress.
Any help would be much appreciated!
Cheers!
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Click to collapse
DSP output to subwoofer has probably burned (regulator voltage chip inside on board), must be replaced.