Related
*Please be aware that if you have rooted your device you may get undesirable results from daily use that I haven't covered here. That is a risk you take or something you have to put up with or solve/workaround yourself, or with your rom provider.*
__________________
When in doubt, always read the manual!!! >>>>DOWNLOAD IT HERE!<<<<
Have a problem with your dock/battery?
Read THIS first.
My FOTA update keeps failing to install.
You have to fully return your device to stock (not just unroot). Use NVflash to do this. Then go to the asus ftp server and download any update file. Update your device using that file and this should allow your device to update FOTA properly.
Get a tingling sensation when plugging in a charger?
Flip the charger over and plug it into the wall so that the S in asus is on the side with the fat slot on the plug to fix. Seems to be a faulty adapter issue.
My screen isn't displaying anything:
Make sure none of the side buttons are stuck. Press them and make sure they 'click' ok. Force power off your device (10-12 second hold of power button, then release). Wait for about 30 secs. Then power it on normally (6sec power button hold and release). If your screen worked, then stopped, try discharging the battery to 0%. Then re-charging it. This has seemed to clear screen responsiveness for lots of people.
My dock battery is dead and it won't start to re-charge:
Try this tip HERE.
My speaker volume is stuck at a certain level:
Force power off your device (10-12 second hold of power button, then release). Then wait for about 30 secs. Then power it on normally (6sec power button hold and release).
My device/dock battery isn't charging OR my device/dock battery isn't holding a charge:
Make sure the charger is 100% clipped together properly. It's a very tight fit and may need slight force to snap together. Also make sure you have inserted the usb cable the right way up in your adapter. Sometimes unclipping, and re-attaching the adapter parts fixes problems (some come pre-assembled already so this may not be your issue). If your dock battery indicator doesn't ever go green after about 8hrs of charging (not for the first charge) then it may need RMA'ing. A normal charge of the tablet itself, from empty to full, should take about 3hrs maximum (not for the first charge).
My battery is draining very quickly:
Some apps run fine in the background, but there are others that may be 'keeping alive' certain functions, such as gps, sensors, etc. In order to get around this you can use free task killing apps from the market. It's recommended to be selective about which apps you choose to auto-kill. Don't just put them all on auto-kill (unless you are using a 'safe' option in the app) or your system may become unstable. If you have wifi on when you put the tablet in standby, it stays connected. If you then leave the network coverage area, the tablet will continually search for any network around it, draining the battery further. So when leaving home, remember to switch it off. Another possible cause of major battery drain is a badly coded/incompatible app. Get a battery monitoring app from the market and keep a close eye on the logs it produces. Don't watch every little blip/spike in the readings, try to take an average reading, over a few hours/days to get a better idea of what's happening.
Why isn't my device charging when I plug it into my pc?
It will only charge when the display of the device is off. And it is extremely slow and will only trickle charge. There are ways to boost power to your usb port, but the risks far outweigh any benefits.
My keyboard dock has X issue:
The next firmware update should solve many dock problems.
My touchscreen isn't working properly:
A future firmware update may resolve this issue.
My speaker balance is off (louder/quieter in one speaker than the other):
A future firmware update may resolve this issue. Or if you don't want to wait you can read THIS thread.
My X app force closes/crashes unexpectedly:
Check with the app developer/market for an updated version compatible with honeycomb.
The default camera app is showing a green screen:
This was fixed in firmware update1. Upgrade your firmware.
I don't have MyCloud or splashtop apps installed. Where are they?
These were added in firmware update1. Upgrade your firmware.
My email widget isn't updating and always shows 0 emails:
This was fixed in firmware update1. Upgrade your firmware. Then remove the widget from your home screen, reboot and then re-add the widget to your screen.
My wifi signal keeps dropping:
Update to the latest firmware. Set your router/modem to a specific channel (set it to 1-11, NOT channel 12 or 13). Failing that, it's probably time to buy a newer wireless N router/modem (the TF does not support 5ghz, only 2.4ghz).
One of my speakers stays on even when nothing is playing from it:
Put your device into standby mode for 5+ seconds. Then turn on again.
My charging cable is too short:
Some 3rd party USB 3.0 male to female extension cables work to extend the length. This seems to be the luck of the draw if it works for you or not.
I get horrible movie recording framerate issues:
This was fixed in firmware update1. Upgrade your firmware.
My microsd card isnt working:
Make sure it is formatted to fat32. Make sure it's securely fixed into the slot. It has to be pushed in quite a way. Use a long fingernail or the edge of a credit card. Make sure it clicks and holds in the slot. It should be flush to the side of the device.
I have dust under my screen or dead pixels or both:
Return and replace for a new unit by RMA'ing your device.
My MKV video playback is jerky/unwatchable/not working:
Make sure it's a low profile encoded file.
My device isn't powering on:
Perhaps you have put it into APX/nvflash mode by mistake (which doesn't display anything onscreen). Force power off your device (10-12 second hold of power button, then release). Then wait for about 30 secs. Then power it on normally (2sec power button hold and release). If still nothing you might have to RMA it for a replacement.
I can't install any apps from the market:
If you are in an unsupported country you can try THIS. If you're not and still can't install, sometimes google does maintenance that affects certain accounts. Try it again at a later time/date.
My onscreen keyboard is laggy:
Change the keyboard from the default Asus keyboard for the stock honeycomb one. Turn off text prediction. If still laggy you have a conflicting app. If fixed then find another keyboard app that you like.
When I plug my device into my pc I cant transfer any files:
Make sure the device's screen is on, and that the lockscreen is not showing.
My dock isn't charging my tablet above 97%:
There is inbuilt code to stop your device from charging above a certain point to prolong the battery life.
Solid Green light = Battery above 95% charge.
Solid Orange (they call it orange) = 10-95% charge.
Orange blinking = Battery less than 3-10% charge.
Orange fast blinking = Battery less than 3% charge.
My screen is sticky:
Give it a wipe with a microfibre cloth. After a few days of use it will be a lot better.
The XDA site is laggy in the default browser:
Bottom left of the XDA site is a dropdown box. Change the template to 'Classic' mode.
After trying to update the firmware, my device is showing the wrong build number:
Factory reset your device and re-apply the update manually.
I get a strange clicking noise on startup:
It's normal. This is just the camera running through the initialisation process.
I'm having troubles installing apps via the desktop market.
Make sure the screen is on, and unlocked.
I can't login to the android market:
Go to settings>applications and clear the market, market updater and market feedback agent caches. Try again.
My apps are force-closing/crashing all the time:
Install apps that are known to be stable with honeycomb. Try this list HERE.
My SDXC card isn't working:
Format it as NTFS, if you are using files over 4gb on it or the card wont work properly. An alternative method is to format the card as Fat32 filesystem (if you are going to be only storing files under 4gb in size), but you will need to partition it into 32gb sections if you use this formatting system, for the full capacity to be usable.
LINK for RMAing devices in the UK.
LINK for RMAing devices in the USA.
My case is sharp/creaky/rattling/chipped/dented/flexing/cursed/gives me a funny look, when I received it:
RMA for a replacement.
My neighbours' baby/dog/cat/grandfather/goldfish/alien ate my cable:
This won't be covered under any warranty so you will have to purchase a separate one when they become available.
I have light bleed:
Cool... free torch feature!! Either that or RMA for a new device.
____________
Think something should be added here? Pm me, or post below.
My battery died very quickly while the tablet was in standby:
If you have wifi on when you put the tablet in standby, it stays connected. If you leave an area of wifi coverage, the tablet will continually search for a network, draining the battery.
EJL1980 said:
My battery died very quickly while the tablet was in standby:
If you have wifi on when you put the tablet in standby, it stays connected. If you leave an area of wifi coverage, the tablet will continually search for a network, draining the battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can modify that behavior in the wifi settings. Take a look at the sleep settngs.
I have not seen this mentioned so it probably is not too common a problem but my wifi was initially invisible to my transformer. Switching the channel from 13 or maybe 14 to something lower fixed the issue.
EJL1980 said:
My battery died very quickly while the tablet was in standby:
If you have wifi on when you put the tablet in standby, it stays connected. If you leave an area of wifi coverage, the tablet will continually search for a network, draining the battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks that's a good point. I've added it to main post.
EJL1980 said:
My battery died very quickly while the tablet was in standby:
If you have wifi on when you put the tablet in standby, it stays connected. If you leave an area of wifi coverage, the tablet will continually search for a network, draining the battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, and I want to stress: wifi performance on standby is problematic and needs a fix. On the Xoom, wifi can be kept on when the screen turns off and standby performance is in the <.5%/hour battery use range. The Asus needs to have wifi set to turn off when the screen is off to achieve this kind of performance (otherwise, it burns about 3%/hour).
I'm hoping Asus is aware of this issue and will fix it soon in a firmware update.
some very good points, thank you
Touch screen stopped responding to touch
Brand new unit after about an hours use the touchscreen stopped responding to touch. It did this on Friday, May 13th, between Noon and 5pm eastern DST. The unit was working when shut of and was in a safe spot. I went to turn it on and no touchscreen. I noted the time as I think there may have been an OTA update then but I never saw anything on screen.
No monkey business, rooting, tinkering etc. Just learning about unit.
I have wiped the memory and cold booted several times, no change. I note that after a forced off the unit turns back on by its self. I saw earlier when I started the browser for the first time, the right 25% of the screen was over bright then went dark. Exiting browser, screen returned to normal and never saw this behavior again.
Screen may be somewhat dim now but cannot get past setup screen as only power key is responded to.
Already asked B&H for RMA but any magic gratefully accepted.
Howard
@easyrotor
Unfortunately it sounds like a clear case of a faulty unit. Don't know of anything that can help in that situation im afraid. Not what you'd want to hear of course, but at least it should be a simple exchange for a new one.
Overcharging prevention on PSU-to-Tablet too?
<<<
My dock isn't charging my tablet above 97%:
There is inbuilt code to stop your device from charging above a certain point to prolong the battery life.
Solid Green light = Battery above 95% charge.
Solid Orange (they call it orange) = 10-95% charge.
Orange blinking = Battery less than 3-10% charge.
Orange fast blinking = Battery less than 3% charge.
>>>
- On this note, does it only apply to Dock-to-Tablet charging or also for PSU-to-Tablet charging?
- I have not try the dock to see it for myself but at least with PSU, it seems to charge my tablet all the way to 100%.
AcidCool2K said:
- On this note, does it only apply to Dock-to-Tablet charging or also for PSU-to-Tablet charging?
- I have not try the dock to see it for myself but at least with PSU, it seems to charge my tablet all the way to 100%.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good point, I'm not sure. I assuming that no matter what, the led on the keyboard dock would show just it's own charge.
Will have to monitor it for a bit and get back to you.
Hopefully later once Asus release another update, it will contain the dock battery vs. tablet battery (that got taken out from the .12 beta build) for us to monitor both.
just wanted to say that this thread is awesome...thanks so much for putting in the effort to document all problems/solutions that may come up with our TF's.
It might be worth mentioning light bleed here?
thegrumpyyoungman said:
just wanted to say that this thread is awesome...thanks so much for putting in the effort to document all problems/solutions that may come up with our TF's.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks.
UKseagull said:
It might be worth mentioning light bleed here?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Saying what exactly? Return and get a new one? Would imagine most would do that already. Plus there's no fix you can do yourself.
I only put those last 2 lines in the first post as a bit of a joke, but I'll add another for light bleed then.
stuntdouble said:
Saying what exactly? Return and get a new one? Would imagine most would do that already. Plus there's no fix you can do yourself.
I only put those last 2 lines in the first post as a bit of a joke, but I'll add another for light bleed then.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why not, if you've bothered with mentioning the dust issue then why not another issue that's been mentioned more than once?
I have dust under my screen or dead pixels or both:
Return and replace for a new unit by RMA'ing your device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Added. ...
Hardy harrr harrrr .... If I had a custard pie ...
Transformer won't Charge
I received my eee pad transformer from hh gregg yesterday. When I opened the box I noticed that there was a scratch that appeared to be under the the screen. The scratch is very long, but also very fine and you can only see it when the screen is dark and you hold it up to the light. So I figured what the heck, not that big of a deal. However, when I went to charge the transformer, I cannot get it to charge. No light, no nothing. I've tried everything. Plugging it up to the computer, plugging into the wall, taking apart and putting back together, still nothing. I'm trying to figure out what to do. Does anyone know what could be causing this? Asus said I can send to them and they will look at it or I can send it back to the store, however, the store does not have anymore of the transformers in stock.
zoranaw said:
I've tried everything. Plugging it up to the computer, plugging into the wall, taking apart and putting back together, still nothing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you are taking apart and putting back together the wall charger then you likely haven't put it together properly yet; it will not come apart easily at all if it is fully together.
Try pushing harder than you think you should until the pronged portion is snapped in to place and you cannot easily remove it again. If it doesn't snap down, the contacts on the back side don't line up and it won't charge.
So, I plugged my Nexus 4 into a generic car charger and it went black instantly. The battery was at about 92%. With the hope that a proper AC or computer USB charge connection would bring up the white battery icon and fix things, I stopped by an out of town T-mobile. The manager tried the button battery-reset (up volume + power for 60sec) and I googled alternatives and tried the - enter recovery by pressing those buttons for 15sec off the charger and connecting while still holding down the buttons - trick. Neither worked.
The manger seemed familiar with that and the other button pressing tricks, and said that really, my only real hope would be to reset/replace the battery, but that would void my warranty. However, although the T-mobile site claims my Google bought phone is under warranty (and I've been paying for it each month), technically, it isn't. Under them or Google (any more). So, I purchased the tools to open the phone, as well as a replacement battery. In the interim, I tried to use all the button combos and various charging connections to get it to come back to life. I *did* manage to get it charging the old battery. I know because the blinking red light turned constant for an hour or two, and the battery got warm. I can only guess that the battery was too damaged to keep the charge however, because I could never get it to turn on during or after. My best guess is that the software battery reset allowed the phone to send a charge to the battery - at least once.
After getting my tools and replacement battery, I managed to get the phone open (with great effort - I think there must be a difference between batches there). I removed the old battery connection and looked to see if I could get the charge icon with it unattached and on the charger. I couldn't. Reconnecting the old battery didn't seem to make any difference.
I was about to go through the process of prying up the old battery when I realized that you can actually connect the new battery to the board connector without getting the old one out. So I did that. Leaving it charging like that for awhile didn't do anything, so I decided to do another software battery reset and I'm letting it sit on the charger overnight. All of this has been without reattaching the back.
So my major question is - does anyone know for sure if the phone actually charges the battery with the back off? I know there are important circuits there - which seem to shut down the phone after the battery or google image when not detected (at least that's my deducement after reading posts). But are those connections also used in charging? The Qi goes though the back to the charger function, so perhaps that connection has to be there? I would like to try and find out though beforehand. It took 2 hours and two mangled guitar picks to get it open the first time, and the second may be just as trying. (And believe me, towards the end, I was not concerned with being gentle.)
I am also curious about the four prong battery connection. I've seen the post about charging the battery using external sources by connecting to the two outer pins. Does that mean the two inner pins constitute a second circuit between the charged battery and the phone? And if I find another 3.8v battery fully charged, I could perhaps connect that to the phone instead by wires and get it booted into recovery? As to why I'd want to do that, I don't recall the last dated CM version I had installed, so finding that in their folder plus pulling off everything from /data... assuming I replaced this with another Nexus 4, I might be able to save myself a lot of setup hassle.
In terms of the red light... it actually seems to be an error code. When triggered, it blinks 7 times, and on the eighth stays lit for a bit before repeating.
cetkat said:
So, I plugged my Nexus 4 into a generic car charger and it went black instantly. The battery was at about 92%. With the hope that a proper AC or computer USB charge connection would bring up the white battery icon and fix things, I stopped by an out of town T-mobile. The manager tried the button battery-reset (up volume + power for 60sec) and I googled alternatives and tried the - enter recovery by pressing those buttons for 15sec off the charger and connecting while still holding down the buttons - trick. Neither worked.
The manger seemed familiar with that and the other button pressing tricks, and said that really, my only real hope would be to reset/replace the battery, but that would void my warranty. However, although the T-mobile site claims my Google bought phone is under warranty (and I've been paying for it each month), technically, it isn't. Under them or Google (any more). So, I purchased the tools to open the phone, as well as a replacement battery. In the interim, I tried to use all the button combos and various charging connections to get it to come back to life. I *did* manage to get it charging the old battery. I know because the blinking red light turned constant for an hour or two, and the battery got warm. I can only guess that the battery was too damaged to keep the charge however, because I could never get it to turn on during or after. My best guess is that the software battery reset allowed the phone to send a charge to the battery - at least once.
After getting my tools and replacement battery, I managed to get the phone open (with great effort - I think there must be a difference between batches there). I removed the old battery connection and looked to see if I could get the charge icon with it unattached and on the charger. I couldn't. Reconnecting the old battery didn't seem to make any difference.
I was about to go through the process of prying up the old battery when I realized that you can actually connect the new battery to the board connector without getting the old one out. So I did that. Leaving it charging like that for awhile didn't do anything, so I decided to do another software battery reset and I'm letting it sit on the charger overnight. All of this has been without reattaching the back.
So my major question is - does anyone know for sure if the phone actually charges the battery with the back off? I know there are important circuits there - which seem to shut down the phone after the battery or google image when not detected (at least that's my deducement after reading posts). But are those connections also used in charging? The Qi goes though the back to the charger function, so perhaps that connection has to be there? I would like to try and find out though beforehand. It took 2 hours and two mangled guitar picks to get it open the first time, and the second may be just as trying. (And believe me, towards the end, I was not concerned with being gentle.)
I am also curious about the four prong battery connection. I've seen the post about charging the battery using external sources by connecting to the two outer pins. Does that mean the two inner pins constitute a second circuit between the charged battery and the phone? And if I find another 3.8v battery fully charged, I could perhaps connect that to the phone instead by wires and get it booted into recovery? As to why I'd want to do that, I don't recall the last dated CM version I had installed, so finding that in their folder plus pulling off everything from /data... assuming I replaced this with another Nexus 4, I might be able to save myself a lot of setup hassle.
In terms of the red light... it actually seems to be an error code. When triggered, it blinks 7 times, and on the eighth stays lit for a bit before repeating.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I RAN INTO A SIMILAR PROBLEM
I found that holding the power button for a while allowed my nexus 4 running stock Lollipop 5.1 to boot back up.
Have considered that you may have a faulty USB port ?
Just pop the old battery out install the new one plug in the charger and it will charge. You can boot up without the back on. The back contains the antennia.... and the NFC circuit board.
Good luck
Blacksmith5 said:
I RAN INTO A SIMILAR PROBLEM
I found that holding the power button for a while allowed my nexus 4 running stock Lollipop 5.1 to boot back up.
Have considered that you may have a faulty USB port ?
Just pop the old battery out install the new one plug in the charger and it will charge. You can boot up without the back on. The back contains the antennia.... and the NFC circuit board.
Good luck
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, still no luck. I ended up putting the new battery in and closing it up to try the Qi charger, but all I can get is either 7 or 10 red blinks followed by a short solid light. No white battery charging symbol or anything else.
When you say a faulty USB port, what are you referring to? The cable works (though I've also tried my Nexus 7 one too) and even though it won't boot, my computer does recognize that something is there when I plug my phone into it (it just can't figure out what's plugged in - which is normal). I want to say that it's trying and failing to charge the new battery. At this point, I think the charger messed up more than just the battery.
I have searched and searched and searched, only finding unhelpful suggestions from people not too qualified to offer said unhelpful suggestions, haha. This bastard Moto X will not charge, regardless of charger/cable used (OEM Turbo and regular), no USB trickle charge, and I caved and got a new battery despite knowing better and it still won't charge. It stays on while plugged in and runs until the percentage reaches 0% (rate of discharge isn't always consistent). I've tried a whole host of dumb tricks like draining battery to 0%, selecting "Power Off" from fastboot, and holding Power/Volume Down for five minutes. Doing the latter seems to be the only thing that allows it to get a charge, but it's kind of wholly impractical to do that every day for who knows how long to make a difference. Also did complete factory reset and fresh reinstall of both factory and cm13 ROM and clearing ALL the caches, still to no avail.
So because it will slightly charge in the constant fastboot/reset process of holding Power/Volume Down, I've come to the conclusion that it's a kernel thing because of a damaged component on the board. Biggest issue is that the battery is reported as "Cold", with a general temperate reported by multiple utilities at -32 degrees. I can't upload screenshots at the moment, but TWRP reports system temp as a massive string that covers 2/3 of the bar up top. So for whatever reason the phone isn't getting a reading from the battery temperature sensor, and it's refusing to allow the battery to charge. I've been searching like crazy to find a way around this, be it editing the kernel to ignore temperature, or finding a schematic to know where to look for related circuitry responsible for this. I DID find a single component that has been broken from the previous owner tearing into it to replace the screen, but it's up near the button connector and just seems like an inefficient place to take anything relating to the Power IC. Regardless, since I can't find any way of identifying exactly what it is and what it does, I'm not sure how to handle this. Any flippin' suggestions?
tl;dr - I had pizza leftovers for breakfast and I regret it.
illitero said:
I have searched and searched and searched, only finding unhelpful suggestions from people not too qualified to offer said unhelpful suggestions, haha. This bastard Moto X will not charge, regardless of charger/cable used (OEM Turbo and regular), no USB trickle charge, and I caved and got a new battery despite knowing better and it still won't charge. It stays on while plugged in and runs until the percentage reaches 0% (rate of discharge isn't always consistent). I've tried a whole host of dumb tricks like draining battery to 0%, selecting "Power Off" from fastboot, and holding Power/Volume Down for five minutes. Doing the latter seems to be the only thing that allows it to get a charge, but it's kind of wholly impractical to do that every day for who knows how long to make a difference. Also did complete factory reset and fresh reinstall of both factory and cm13 ROM and clearing ALL the caches, still to no avail.
So because it will slightly charge in the constant fastboot/reset process of holding Power/Volume Down, I've come to the conclusion that it's a kernel thing because of a damaged component on the board. Biggest issue is that the battery is reported as "Cold", with a general temperate reported by multiple utilities at -32 degrees. I can't upload screenshots at the moment, but TWRP reports system temp as a massive string that covers 2/3 of the bar up top. So for whatever reason the phone isn't getting a reading from the battery temperature sensor, and it's refusing to allow the battery to charge. I've been searching like crazy to find a way around this, be it editing the kernel to ignore temperature, or finding a schematic to know where to look for related circuitry responsible for this. I DID find a single component that has been broken from the previous owner tearing into it to replace the screen, but it's up near the button connector and just seems like an inefficient place to take anything relating to the Power IC. Regardless, since I can't find any way of identifying exactly what it is and what it does, I'm not sure how to handle this. Any flippin' suggestions?
tl;dr - I had pizza leftovers for breakfast and I regret it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
DID YOU FIND A SOLUTION? I'm facing the same issues with my moto x pure edition (XT1575) after a screen replacement. Ampere aplication says the battery health is "Cold".
I never did, unfortunately. I tried a different battery in the event that some onboard IC was damaged, but it performed the same way. Whatever component was damaged seemed to be responsible for relaying pertinent information regarding battery temp readings; and without it the phone was getting that -32 reading which was beyond a safe/efficient range to allow charging (presumably). In my research, I think I remember it being possible that fiddling with the kernel itself to bypass battery temperature requirements is possible, but that's beyond my level of knowledge and runs the risk of being potentially unsafe since all it takes is one instance of getting too hot for the whole thing to go up in smoke. As frustrating as it is, it's not worth the potential damage to the device and/or home.
Not to say that your issue is the same as mine concerning cause, but the end result of how to bypass it would more than likely be the same :/
Same issue... Well... On my way to it.
I mean, my XT1575 will only charge if I lift the micro usb cable in a very very specific way. And everyday that passes, it's getting more a more difficult to find the right spot
DiegoMarinDiego said:
Same issue... Well... On my way to it.
I mean, my XT1575 will only charge if I lift the micro usb cable in a very very specific way. And everyday that passes, it's getting more a more difficult to find the right spot
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had that exact issue with the included 25W quick charger after a while. Switched to another charger and cable and the problem was solved for me.
Hello people,
I have problem with my Samsung Edge 7 and please if you can just tell me what can be a problem and on which way should I go to solve this problem I would appreciate it very much. No need for step by step solution just tell me what can I do except send it to Samsung repair shop or recycle it. I will take it apart by myself if needed but I don't have a clue which part should I look to replace or what.
So... the problem is that I manage to charge the device one day when it don't want to charge and after that I managed to turn it on. Everything was working fine, didn't try anything much just unlock screen and put it to sleep.
After that I turned it off so it don't consume battery while I would be able to backup my data. When I was able to do backup I turned it on and it powered up normal so I proceed to backup my contacts (export to SD card).
When the export finishes phone just froze and I have to turn it off with POWER + VOLUME DOWN button combo.
After that few times when I try to power it on it just froze on boot up logo and I turned it off that few times with the same button combination as before. Until it don't want to power on anymore. So I tried to put it on charger to see if anything will happen, and nothing did.
I just left it to sit on my desk and I noticed that the phone is heating but I got no reaction at all from the phone (powering on or charging)
The day after when the battery was drained obviously I managed to charge it up again but when I power it on after it got to 100% charge it froze again and there goes same procedure as before (button combination restart, no response, heating, battery dead, charging...)
So now I can't even charge it anymore and I took out SD card to check if my contacts are there at least. But nothing, that contacts vcf file is not even saved on SD card even I choose that option when exporting my contacts.
Now I don't know what else to do since my phone wont even charge or power on and I would like to backup my data at least and then I can recycle it if I must.
So please if you have a clue just tell me where can I look at what can I try to do.
Thank you in advance and have a nice day
some of sgs has these problem. The motherboard is broke, i had same problem and sent to samsung service, they changed motherboard. I guess it's related to cpu temp sensor, inside the cpu.
Thank you Ganjax for your reply. That was the thing I was afraid of. So all my data goes away with motherboard?
I will wait few more days with some replies even I find your very useful and accurate since you had the same problem.
hey I also have the same issue, putting the phone in the freezer and letting it freeze makes it so that it can turn on for only 5minutes or till when it drops back to room temperature hopefully this will be enough to get your photos back.
millkyway4 thank you for you reply.
I am not in a possibility to try your method because I disassemble my phone and striped down battery for research purposes.
Neither I think that those 5 minutes will be enough to transfer all my data but if I ever reassemble my phone I will give it a shot.
So... Considering my research and striping down the battery the things goes like this (if someone is interested in this topic):
I disassemble the phone and remove the battery. Battery is connected on motherboard by some connector that I don't know the name or type, so if someone knows I would like to know too.
Since I couldn't find positive and negative lead on that connector (because of microscopic leads) little bit down on flat cable, near the battery, I removed coating and manage to find leads and measure voltage of the battery to confirm positive and negative lead.
By the measurements I assume that battery voltage is fine (~3.7V), but when I connect it to external charger which have built in ampere meter the battery doesn't charge as other batteries and ampere meter readings vary by 100mA +/- I set up to be initial charge. In normal case when I charge batteries amperes only goes down by the time the battery charges so I find this event an anomaly.
Since that is the case I removed the chip (from which the flat cable is coming out) that is on the battery assuming that it is causing that anomaly. Leaving the battery with only positive and negative lead that I connected and also measure and put on my external charger. But the same thing happens as with chip, or what is called, on the battery.
Going further with my research I cut down flat cable from battery chip (electronics) and connect positive and negative lead, I found before, directly on my charger on which I adjust voltage on ~3.75 volts and connect the connector with flat cable back to motherboard. So you probably see what I did here but if you don't the research I want to conduct is that my external charger acts as battery for the phone and I try to power it on like that.
In this case ampere meter shows 0 since the current which is flowing trough the phone is none. After I am sure that this is the case I tried to power on my phone with connected external charger like that and my ampere meter shown a current draw of 100-200mA on the POWER button pressed but the phone doesn't turn on.
So now I need someone with a little bit better knowledge of the phone, batteries, working order and type of connections like this to tell me what did I do right and wrong so I can prove that Ganjax statement, and my assumption, that motherboard is dead is really correct.
Ganjax don't mean I don't believe you or something, I appreciate your reply, this is just for research purposes because I would like to play with this stuff and that is the things that interest me.
And if there is some "fanatic" like that to tell me what can I do next and try or point out what should I do and don't make next please leave a comment and we can discuss this matter together and find out something about this case.
Thank you all and have a nice day
I have a problem with my Axon 7 (global). Ive decided to change battery on my own one week ago. I was super carefoul with every step i did, no cracks, no damage. I assembled everything togeather and suddenly no signal. Wifi worked perfectly. Now i have this often signal looses which persists even after reboot. Sometimes when I finally catch signal it shows me almost full 4g+, but on the other hand everythig works very sluggish. Super slow internet speeds, even for messeging via whats app for example. I tried to check if this is maybe some software issue. I was on global B03. I could not update to B04 via ota so i decided to downgrade, then install b04. I did, and this solved nothing. Problem persists and phone without wifi is unusable :/ Any ideas how to solve this?:crying:
Connector not seated properly inside it?
I also replaced my battery. The battery behaviour is now normal again but seen no differences in how it runs.
I think that it's not that, I've payed extra attention to this second time that I opened phone. All the connectors I've unplugged, then plugged it again, checked antenna as well. No visable damage to the cable or the connectors.
Thinking about my experience doing the battery, the two most difficult or potentially damaging things were separating the rear cover from it and getting the battery out. Once the cover separated it came off well. It was a hard job getting down under it. The battery was hard to start lifting but with isopropyl alcohol under it, It came up easier the more it was lifted. Maybe something around the battery has been compromised.
Thank you for your response. I did not use alcohol to remove battery, i used hairdryer, and i began to remove battery from other side (the one with antenna). Maybe i burned antenna? Is it possible? Sryly no visible damage, nothing! Everything else works. BT, Wifi, all functions - only signal problem. Any idea what part should i change? I also founded some info in iOS forum somewhere, supposedly iPhone 6 or 7 had similar issue when someone changed battery. They suggested to unplug battery and hold every button for 30-60 seconds, one after another, to "discharge components" or something. I dunno :/
You change the charger board too?
I ordered from Ali only antenna, should i order charging board as well? Anyway, why charging board? Is there some important components that i could have damage? Why not motherboard as well? Antenna is connecting charging and motherboard together. Just wanna know why do you think that i should change charging board as well, maybe Ill learn something new