Database Users

Charge Raphael from 12V car battery?

Anyone seen a cable converter to allow me to charge the Raphael from a 12V car battery when there is no access to a cigarette lighter socket?
Thus, aligator clips (or similiar) that connect to the +/- terminals of a 12V battery, and then the other end has the mini-usb connector that plugs into the Raphael. Seemingly in the middle between the two would be a 12V to 5V step down.
Anyone seen such a cable? I guess I could get a standard cigarette lighter style and break it apart and solder on some aligator clips?

um.. that would most probably result in a mini explosion that will cause your fuze to go up in flames and clouds of dark ozone destroying smoke... and maybe for you to lose a hand in the process.... I highly suggest you find a different alternative...
just my 2 cents..

go to walmart and find something like this. plugging directly to a battery is a very bad idea.
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Get a cigarette lighter extension and cut off the male end. Put gator clips on the wires to the female end. Works awesome.
Be careful to get hot and ground correct.

Try one of these adapters "Lighter Socket Alligator Clips". Obviously you'll still need a HTC (or suitable) cigarette lighter charger. Only about USD6.00.
Cheers!

[Q] Details of AC Charging Spec?

I've been trying to set up a fast charger by splicing directly into the +5V rail of my pet project's power supply:
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Just in case any ladies coming into my apartment didn't know I was a geek.
From my own research, shorting the two data pins of a USB connection together should enable AC (fast) charging mode. Inside that heat shrink, the two data wires are stripped, twisted together, and held securely. It seems that devices ARE interpreting the shorted pins correctly - my GS3 shows "Charging (AC)" in the native battery monitor, and my 1st gen Kindle Fire with Battery Monitor Widget installed shows "AC Plugged" - but the Kindle will only pull about 700mA from the setup (it pulls an indicated 1000mA from Amazon's 1.8A charger. Don't know why it's not 1800mA, but one problem at a time). The GS3 is not compatible with current monitoring apps, but a friend's Nexus also shows more current from the Amazon charger than from my kludge.
This is an old, "5V heavy" PSU, and it's rated for 25A on the 5V rail, so there's no shortage of available amperage. I'm out of ideas. Is there anything that I've missed on how to get devices to pull max charging current?
(When I check off the "Yes, this thread is a Question!" checkbox, the forum is telling me I'm breaking the rules by posting it here, but since the first sentence of the stickied rules thread is "In general this forum should be used for questions, answers, progress reports, and tools pertaining to development boards and non-device-specific hardware.", I'm just going to ignore it. My apologies if I've misinterpreted.

[Fixed] Beeping QI wireless charging pad

I got a wireless QI charger off Ebay the other day. Works quite well except for the beeping noises it made when putting the phone on charge
and when the battery is full. It also beeped for no apparent reason in the middle of the night. Anyway, I got sick of it and decided to pull it apart.
This model is quite easy to open with a flat head screw driver. After opening it I found the little speaker easily as it wasnt attached to the board but
separaty from it. I cut the 2 wires and took the speaker out. Charing fine now but without the annoying beeps. Also I put some tape on the little LED inside so the light is not as bright.
Hopefully my experience can help someone here who is getting sick of the beeping
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Rosies, if the speaker is separate, then you only need to cut one wire to break the circuit.
I purchased a Fonesaleman QI charger off Ebay, and after being woken in the middle of the night also decided to silence my charger, why do they make everything beep these days
To open this case you need to remove the four little rubber feet, carefully peel them out with your finger nail, then undo the four screws and open the case.
Once the case is apart simply pop the lid off the speaker (arrowed in the attached pictures) and remove the little silver disc, it's not fixed in place, pop the lid back on the speaker and stick the disc to the corner of the sticky pad.
I originally tried to unsolder the speaker, but I've never been too successful and purely by chance the lid came off the little speaker.

Charging port jack - now repaired

Just got this done. I had a V1.3 charge port board. Tried a replacement V1.4 board ($55) without success. Sent my V1.3 board to Pomeroy Computing in Pompano Beach. FL. Charged me $30 and returned the board with a new jack within a week. Can't ask for better than that!

I replaced my USB connector with one i bought off ebay for a little over $1
removed old one with solder wick and solder on new.
search ebay for:
Charger Port Connector For Asus Google Nexus 7
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I just heated up the old solder and touched up the contacts with some new solder. My port that wasn't charging is now charging. I guess over time the solder contacts break from pushing in and out the usb cable.

Just in the interest of being thorough, the N7 jack itself (not the solder points) may also be "too loose" so to speak. I've found that the majority of USB micro connectors are smaller than my N7's USB jack, so they do not seat securely once plugged in.
One fix, dismantle the N7 and bend the jack itself. Another solution: bend your cables' connectors -- the trick is to expand a cable's USB micro connector slightly with a jewler's screwdriver. Still another, some nylon cables I've bought from China fit snugly.
-Pie

Power connector on Galaxy S6 main board

Hi, I could use a bit of help, if possible. My phone (S6 Edge) went into salt water and then quickly died. My goal at this point is to hack the phone back to life just long enough to do one final backup. At this point I have disassembled the phone and cleaned the salt residue off the board with a soft toothbrush and alcohol.
Here's a picture of the main board where the battery attaches. It appears that the saltwater shorted there and essentially melted the power connector. The battery connector (not shown) is similarly destroyed.
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My assumption is that there are normally 4 circuits between the main board and the battery:
1) +3.0V
2) GND
3) Temp sense (thermister?)
4) Temp sense
Unfortunately it's hard for me to tell what goes where because both connectors are so badly destroyed.
What I'd like to try (nothing to lose at this point) is to wire up these four circuits and bring them out to a lab bench power supply and perhaps a resistor to emulate the temperature sense (assuming that the phone will require some reading on signals 3 & 4 above).
Does anyone know where to tap into the +3.0V and GND connections immediately downstream of the battery connector? Perhaps the + and - pins of one of the caps?
Same question on where to tap into the temp sense pair. Nominal value of the thermal sense in ohms?
Thanks to anyone who may have mapped out this part of this board....
Bryan