Hi, I could use a bit of help, if possible. My phone (S6 Edge) went into salt water and then quickly died. My goal at this point is to hack the phone back to life just long enough to do one final backup. At this point I have disassembled the phone and cleaned the salt residue off the board with a soft toothbrush and alcohol.
Here's a picture of the main board where the battery attaches. It appears that the saltwater shorted there and essentially melted the power connector. The battery connector (not shown) is similarly destroyed.
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My assumption is that there are normally 4 circuits between the main board and the battery:
1) +3.0V
2) GND
3) Temp sense (thermister?)
4) Temp sense
Unfortunately it's hard for me to tell what goes where because both connectors are so badly destroyed.
What I'd like to try (nothing to lose at this point) is to wire up these four circuits and bring them out to a lab bench power supply and perhaps a resistor to emulate the temperature sense (assuming that the phone will require some reading on signals 3 & 4 above).
Does anyone know where to tap into the +3.0V and GND connections immediately downstream of the battery connector? Perhaps the + and - pins of one of the caps?
Same question on where to tap into the temp sense pair. Nominal value of the thermal sense in ohms?
Thanks to anyone who may have mapped out this part of this board....
Bryan
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Hello,
My probem is that the top part of the jasjar( the area circled in red) is loose. Iw as wondering if anyone new a way to tighten this( the area circled in blue).
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Are there any specifc tools I will need. Please help with this, as it is getting to be veryloose and annoying.
Thanks in advance
Is it loose when twisting (IE rotating the screen 180 degrees) or is it loose when flipping the device open...
For twisting, the base (the area you have in blue, on the keyboard) is magnetic.
It is possible that maybe this has lost some of its magnetism ?????
Test it out with a fridge magnet to see if has a good magnetic field...
If you are talking baout the flip, there are these metal pins located inside the 2 hinges on the keyboard... (to the left and right of the blue area).
It is possible that the plastic has worn out, and these metal pins have a lot of play, allowing them to move very easily...
If this is the case, then you could always try and create more friction, within the hinges....
The best way to get to the part is to disassemble the main unit(not the LCD screen part)...
To do that, you are going to need a very tiny screwdriver, and a pair of tweezers....
Have a hunt around for the Universal Service Manual... That describes disassembly and re-assembler much more elequently than I ever could...
(If you cant find it. PM me with an email address.. And I will sort something out for you...)
Hi guys. Need help here. My ipaq won't charge even with te original usb cable.
It seems that the usb port is damaged - it charges only when i put a piece of paper in the mini usb connector so the pins of the connector are pressed against the ones on the usb port on the device. I guess they use too soft pins and they got deformed. Can anyone help me fix that. My device has no warranty.
I don't know if it is easy to change but this is what you have to buy :
http://www.repairhppda.com/product_info.php?pName=connector-for-synccharging-problems-for-610-612-614&cName=select-your-ipaq-model-ipaq-600-series
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Yep. That's the part. I found it later after I wrote the post. I guess I'll have to make a paypal account after all. Thank you thouugh. In the local service center they said they will fix it fo 15USD but I have to provide the spare part.
Any idea why this part has broken down? Is it possible to fix it without repacing it?
it sounds like either the small clip inside the USB port has snaped, or bent.
If its snapped, then theres very little holding it on so best to get it replaced
If its bent, then it may be possible for you to bend it the other way so it makes a stronger contact tot he USB plug. It will still be weaker than originally.
I have the exact same problem. The weird thing is that it still syncs and I can use WM5torage. I got around it by buying a cheap extra battery + external battery charger combo.
I guess this topic came already up several dozens of times during the lifetime of the Raspberry But I wanted to share my experience on this topic with you.
My issue was, using Kodi on the older rev. B version I got sometimes a CPU temperature of 60°C+, which is too much for the chip to have a relaxed long lasting life. I know that there are some heatsinks available on the market. But these have a sticky tape on their back. Because I have my Pi tucked on the back of the TV and turned by 90 degree (facing the side down), I am afraid that that sticky tape does not last long either and the heatsinks might drop sooner or later. Thus, I took a bigger heatsink, saw it to my needs, drilled a hole and cut a thread for a screw. Now that being done there is a hole in the PCB, where I was able to fix the heatsink. On top of the PCB the heatsink now cools the CPU and the voltage regulator RG2. Contact is made via thermal compound. If needed I can also screw a fitting fan on top - but then I cannot close the housing - still have to saw a hole for it.
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The fan is suited for 12V but using the 5V of the GPIO port is enough to provide some airflow, and it is also pretty quiet. Without the fan I was now at ~42°C under load. Please note that I did not measure the temperatures directly but used the internally read values from within Kodi.
Let me know if you have any questions!
I have a project where I am making a tablet wall mounted (and removable) together with wireless charging (QI Charging).
The tablet is purchased, which I selected specifically because it has a plastic back, and it is also easy to open up.
I bought this QI Receiver:
https://www.amazon.com/CUSORIENT-Wireless-Charger-Receiver-OnePlus/dp/B0713ST47Z
It has the best reviews about power output (the bad reviews on Amazon is about the connector breaking off which doesn't matter to me, as I will solder it internally).
This is the internals of the tablet, the red ring shows where I will place the the QI Receiver coil, and the blue is the cable routing.
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I have tested the QI receiver with the tablet using a USB cable and it works fine, it charges. But there is a heat issue. The coil gets really really hot, to hot to touch with your hand. And this worries me, as I will place the QI receiver directly on the battery inside the unit.
I have seen several projects with phones and internal qi receivers and they are all placed above the battery so it seems to work.
Still the battery inside the tablet has warning labels not to exceed 60 degrees celcius.
So I am thinking if it is possible to use either copper tape or aluminum tape on the battery to shield it from the heat, and then place the QI coil above this.
Any ideas?
I have Shield TV 2017 16GB. i have been fix lag with hardware fix. now i can use it about ~5.4m without problem, faster response.
i use antenna GPRS but better with Wifi antenna (because shield tv use bluetooth 2.4Ghz).
here english instruction of member "iR3M" in shield tv forum
"
Here a quick recap of all steps done and things used:
- very small cross tip screwdriver, to open the 2 screws left and right at the back
- a nylon pry tool, to open the box, without scratching or cracking it, you need to insert it in the back top- left, center and right, afterwards you can slide the top cover away
- a small knife, I used a scalpel to carefully scratch the board, where the antenna needs to solder
- a little pice of copper or brass wire, which on one end you need to rasp with an file
- solder iron, to solder and finally a hot glue pistol, to fix the antenna inside of the case
I've fixed the antenna first to the case with hot glue and solder it afterwards, this way its much easier.
"
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more infomation you can read here (#127 -> #130)
https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/1024541/shield-tv/troubleshooting-tips-for-shield-remote-issues-performance-voice-search-battery-etc-/9/
Hope this help. sorry my english