I guess this topic came already up several dozens of times during the lifetime of the Raspberry But I wanted to share my experience on this topic with you.
My issue was, using Kodi on the older rev. B version I got sometimes a CPU temperature of 60°C+, which is too much for the chip to have a relaxed long lasting life. I know that there are some heatsinks available on the market. But these have a sticky tape on their back. Because I have my Pi tucked on the back of the TV and turned by 90 degree (facing the side down), I am afraid that that sticky tape does not last long either and the heatsinks might drop sooner or later. Thus, I took a bigger heatsink, saw it to my needs, drilled a hole and cut a thread for a screw. Now that being done there is a hole in the PCB, where I was able to fix the heatsink. On top of the PCB the heatsink now cools the CPU and the voltage regulator RG2. Contact is made via thermal compound. If needed I can also screw a fitting fan on top - but then I cannot close the housing - still have to saw a hole for it.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
The fan is suited for 12V but using the 5V of the GPIO port is enough to provide some airflow, and it is also pretty quiet. Without the fan I was now at ~42°C under load. Please note that I did not measure the temperatures directly but used the internally read values from within Kodi.
Let me know if you have any questions!
Related
Hello,
My probem is that the top part of the jasjar( the area circled in red) is loose. Iw as wondering if anyone new a way to tighten this( the area circled in blue).
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Are there any specifc tools I will need. Please help with this, as it is getting to be veryloose and annoying.
Thanks in advance
Is it loose when twisting (IE rotating the screen 180 degrees) or is it loose when flipping the device open...
For twisting, the base (the area you have in blue, on the keyboard) is magnetic.
It is possible that maybe this has lost some of its magnetism ?????
Test it out with a fridge magnet to see if has a good magnetic field...
If you are talking baout the flip, there are these metal pins located inside the 2 hinges on the keyboard... (to the left and right of the blue area).
It is possible that the plastic has worn out, and these metal pins have a lot of play, allowing them to move very easily...
If this is the case, then you could always try and create more friction, within the hinges....
The best way to get to the part is to disassemble the main unit(not the LCD screen part)...
To do that, you are going to need a very tiny screwdriver, and a pair of tweezers....
Have a hunt around for the Universal Service Manual... That describes disassembly and re-assembler much more elequently than I ever could...
(If you cant find it. PM me with an email address.. And I will sort something out for you...)
mount I made out of sheet metal wrapped in vinyl
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
final install
I got bored this morning
Good going. But where did you relocate the vents and heater/AC controls? Or did you just remove them?
You should have posted this in the Accessories section.
holmanm said:
Good going. But where did you relocate the vents and heater/AC controls? Or did you just remove them?
You should have posted this in the Accessories section.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Heater controls have been broken for years I live in a mild climate and the car is just for fun anyways not serious cross country road trips. I simply removed them and set it up for defrost with a switch for the blower relocated. I can revert to the stock setup in less than 15 minutes. Maybe I'll set up a replacement rig for climate controls in the stereo location and hide an amp in the dash somewhere for it.
Just recompiled for a500 trying to get gps working again - not really in a troubleshooting mood :S here's a shot of the new pie controls
I made up a nice bootanimation and background (you can kindof see it in that pic) based around my new guage faces that i'm working on
I still have a lot of work to do on the interior I've got the engine pulled and on a stand waiting on some cash for gaskets rings and bearings, while I was waiting I thought I'd get creative
I know this was mentioned in an older post, but I figured I'd get a link to the iFixIt Moto X site.
I found this link useful if you find the need to open up your Moto X and do any repairs.
Granted, the device they show is the XT1058 (16G NAND, same model I have), a lot of the disassembly/reassembly *should* be the same for the other models.
Post with differences if you find them! I'd be happy to keep this OP updated with differences as we find them.
I did notice a possible 16-pin jtag pad located just north of the SK Hynix RAM:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
But, considering that pad is facing the back of the lcd, it isn't very handy for runtime debugging. (No SWD for me )
Anyways, replacing your camera's and other parts looks pretty simple. Enjoy.
the iFixit it tutorial is not bad, but should ONLY be attempted by someone with alot of experience. The adhesive on the back cover holding the wide flex is really strong and does not come right off as they show. I heated my hotplate to 180 degrees, peeled a little, then did it again. using a long thin metal smudger is best. It will rip if youre not careful. Same with battery, only dont use heat. use metal smudger and take your time. I have not found the part with a mid chasis attached yet and it is very difficult to separate; use hotplate again at 180 and expect to crack the LCD and Digitizer if it wasnt done already; save the metal pins from the digitizer side frame. The iFixit tutorial stops at the mid chasis and I noticed iFixit doesnt even sell the part...
Hi, I could use a bit of help, if possible. My phone (S6 Edge) went into salt water and then quickly died. My goal at this point is to hack the phone back to life just long enough to do one final backup. At this point I have disassembled the phone and cleaned the salt residue off the board with a soft toothbrush and alcohol.
Here's a picture of the main board where the battery attaches. It appears that the saltwater shorted there and essentially melted the power connector. The battery connector (not shown) is similarly destroyed.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
My assumption is that there are normally 4 circuits between the main board and the battery:
1) +3.0V
2) GND
3) Temp sense (thermister?)
4) Temp sense
Unfortunately it's hard for me to tell what goes where because both connectors are so badly destroyed.
What I'd like to try (nothing to lose at this point) is to wire up these four circuits and bring them out to a lab bench power supply and perhaps a resistor to emulate the temperature sense (assuming that the phone will require some reading on signals 3 & 4 above).
Does anyone know where to tap into the +3.0V and GND connections immediately downstream of the battery connector? Perhaps the + and - pins of one of the caps?
Same question on where to tap into the temp sense pair. Nominal value of the thermal sense in ohms?
Thanks to anyone who may have mapped out this part of this board....
Bryan
I have Shield TV 2017 16GB. i have been fix lag with hardware fix. now i can use it about ~5.4m without problem, faster response.
i use antenna GPRS but better with Wifi antenna (because shield tv use bluetooth 2.4Ghz).
here english instruction of member "iR3M" in shield tv forum
"
Here a quick recap of all steps done and things used:
- very small cross tip screwdriver, to open the 2 screws left and right at the back
- a nylon pry tool, to open the box, without scratching or cracking it, you need to insert it in the back top- left, center and right, afterwards you can slide the top cover away
- a small knife, I used a scalpel to carefully scratch the board, where the antenna needs to solder
- a little pice of copper or brass wire, which on one end you need to rasp with an file
- solder iron, to solder and finally a hot glue pistol, to fix the antenna inside of the case
I've fixed the antenna first to the case with hot glue and solder it afterwards, this way its much easier.
"
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
more infomation you can read here (#127 -> #130)
https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/1024541/shield-tv/troubleshooting-tips-for-shield-remote-issues-performance-voice-search-battery-etc-/9/
Hope this help. sorry my english