I got a wireless QI charger off Ebay the other day. Works quite well except for the beeping noises it made when putting the phone on charge
and when the battery is full. It also beeped for no apparent reason in the middle of the night. Anyway, I got sick of it and decided to pull it apart.
This model is quite easy to open with a flat head screw driver. After opening it I found the little speaker easily as it wasnt attached to the board but
separaty from it. I cut the 2 wires and took the speaker out. Charing fine now but without the annoying beeps. Also I put some tape on the little LED inside so the light is not as bright.
Hopefully my experience can help someone here who is getting sick of the beeping
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Rosies, if the speaker is separate, then you only need to cut one wire to break the circuit.
I purchased a Fonesaleman QI charger off Ebay, and after being woken in the middle of the night also decided to silence my charger, why do they make everything beep these days
To open this case you need to remove the four little rubber feet, carefully peel them out with your finger nail, then undo the four screws and open the case.
Once the case is apart simply pop the lid off the speaker (arrowed in the attached pictures) and remove the little silver disc, it's not fixed in place, pop the lid back on the speaker and stick the disc to the corner of the sticky pad.
I originally tried to unsolder the speaker, but I've never been too successful and purely by chance the lid came off the little speaker.
Related
I'm looking for info on the earphone wiring.
The Kaiser came with fixed earphone but the mic works very well. I need to replace the earphone with better quality ones but the HTC adaptor I got only has earphone connection and no mic. To make call, I have to uplug it completely.
I'm thinking to cut off the default earphone, solder 3 mm jack to it, and the other end put a 3 mm receptor. This way, I can retain the mic but also free to swap the earphones.
Anyone has idea what the how wiring of the earphone goes? Which part is ground, which is signal? My basic electronics tells me on the earphone ends it doesn't matter, but on the receptor ends it should matter because both ground will be soldered together and if it's wrong, it'll short the phone's port (signal L & R being shorted together). The trick on Tracy&Matt only available for the port connector mod, but not for the earphone (after mic) mod.
When you strip the cables you will find:
Right and left cable with a core:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
The core is the positive, the mantle the negative (ground).
ORRRR Right and left cable with each 2 wires. The negative wires will have the same color (in most cases). When you connect the wrong wires you will not hear left AND right. I doubt that your device will be damaged if you connect the wrong wires, just do not turn up the volume to the max and only check and disconnect if you cannot hear sound from both channels.
Images are just examples.
Try at own risk, good luck!
My English is not perfect, sorry!
Thank you!
I'll give it a try over weekends .. first got to buy the 3mm port
Almost instantly after unboxing my new white MT3G, I noticed the battery door and other parts of the housing squeaking and making irritating noises. This may not bother some people, but I had to pay full price for my device, so I'd like it to not feel like a cheap plastic toy.
At any rate, I have had similar issues with many other HTC devices, most which were fixed by adding cloth or masking tape to the squeaking surfaces, and voila!
But, its not working on the MT3G... even plain masking tape seems to be too thick, as the battery door rises up and leaves a noticeable gap between it and the rest of the chassis - if I apply tape to it.
I haven't experimented a lot, but I'm getting frustrated and was looking to see if anyone else may have some insight!
Thanks in advance!
An hour of experimentation later, I think I may have a solution for those of you with MT3G's/Magics that are sick of the squeaky toy feeling. Once I perfect my cutouts, I'm going to measure, image and PDF a stencil for you guys to cut out your own MT3G anti squeak mats. The final should be a one piece design, to avoid it from wearing out and getting crappy. This method is low-profile enough to not make the battery cover stand off and gap, but provides enough 'insulation' to keep it from squeaking. Note that the battery has two layers of tape on it, to keep it level with the rest of the back of the device.
Forgive the ugliness, this is a first run... I just wanted to share with the community, as I was excited as hell when I popped on the battery cover and said "OH SHI-- NO SQUEAKS?!"
pictures (the tape is marked with blue sharpie to give contrast - originally white waterproof adhesive medical tape):
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
This is the best looking N4 case I've come across so far but I'm hearing of complaints of the power and volume buttons being too stiff. Could it just need some time to be broken in?
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Deal breaker. And it's huge as well. Going to return mine
Do you have another case in mind?
I'm still waiting for the s view cover to be back in Stock so I can use the 50% off coupon from Samsung. I also have the caseology bumper frame case. Pretty good
I just put some tape on the inside of the metal bumper where the felt behind the buttons is. gave it a little more thickness and now it is a little bit better, but still a bit stiff. The reason for the stiffness I think is because the rubber case it self, does not have cutouts for the buttons, so you are pressing through the rubber case in order to press the actual hardware buttons.
Actually I just checked it.....I left one piece of tape on the Inside of the bumper, on top of the felt, and put 3 pieces of tap on the inside of the rubber case where the markings of the buttons are.
Now it is super good. I cannot get the "click" for the volume buttons, but I do have a nice "click" for the power button. Also, very responsive compared to the way it was before.
Cant go wrong with quick and cheap mod such as tape lol especially when it makes a heck of a difference as in this case
Hey guys.
Well, to keep it short, my screen broke and then I decided to change the entire body of the phone.
The thing is: I started to disassembly my phone without knowing if it was ON of OFF (since the screen doesn't work, at all).
Now, with the battery cover removed, I can't turn my phone on. Even with the charger plugged in.
I think it's because of these contacts the motherboard make with the rear aluminium cover (check the pics), but I'm not sure. Are they all for SIM signal/WiFi?
Basically, my question is: What are all these pins for? Is it normal for the phone not to turn on without the rear cover?
Obs.: Yesterday I plugged it in and turned it ON just to give the battery some charge (the fingerprint sensor was working and the notification LED as well).
Here are the contact areas on the rear cover:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
And here the pines on the motherboard:
Well, I removed the battery and put it back, then put the rear cover and the the LED blinked RED, which means the battery is out of charge. Now, is it normal for the phone to discharge from 100% to 0% without use in 24h? It was without battery for an entire week, by the way.
Should power on without the cover, those are usually just for antennas. I just had mine off a couple days ago swapping the battery. The battery really shouldn't discharge that quickly, usually they can sit for quite a while and still have enough charge to power the device on.
I have a project where I am making a tablet wall mounted (and removable) together with wireless charging (QI Charging).
The tablet is purchased, which I selected specifically because it has a plastic back, and it is also easy to open up.
I bought this QI Receiver:
https://www.amazon.com/CUSORIENT-Wireless-Charger-Receiver-OnePlus/dp/B0713ST47Z
It has the best reviews about power output (the bad reviews on Amazon is about the connector breaking off which doesn't matter to me, as I will solder it internally).
This is the internals of the tablet, the red ring shows where I will place the the QI Receiver coil, and the blue is the cable routing.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
I have tested the QI receiver with the tablet using a USB cable and it works fine, it charges. But there is a heat issue. The coil gets really really hot, to hot to touch with your hand. And this worries me, as I will place the QI receiver directly on the battery inside the unit.
I have seen several projects with phones and internal qi receivers and they are all placed above the battery so it seems to work.
Still the battery inside the tablet has warning labels not to exceed 60 degrees celcius.
So I am thinking if it is possible to use either copper tape or aluminum tape on the battery to shield it from the heat, and then place the QI coil above this.
Any ideas?