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Brodit Active Car Mount-modded with audio/charging

Here's the short tutorial on how to modify a Brodit/Proclips active car mount to work with an HTC y-cable. This allows you to slide your Kaiser into the device holder, and have audio out capabilities while charging.
First, you need to use a knife to separate the top plate from the charging plug. Slide your knife gently between both sides to completely separate it. If you look carefully there is a thin line between the top plate and the bottom mount.
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Once you've removed the top plate, you'll see the usb charging cable:

Remove it and get the y-cable ready to install. You need to remove the rubber casing around the end of the y-cable in order for it to fit correctly:
Once installed in the holder, it should look like this:

Use some type of adhesive to reattach the top plate:
Here's the finished product:

Tank you very much for your work. I've got my active car-mount yesterday and will mod it this weekend!
Bye, Peter

Glad to see that you had success, I will mod my active cradle now.
I think I am gonna use the one modded like this on my desk - I still can't see a decent landscape desk cradle on the market, so I think this mod + a bit of lead + some of that polymorph stuff I use in my passive holder version of this mod will make a nice desk cradle. I could link it into the stereo so I can choose songs on the phone while I game on the PC

URPREY said:
Here's the short tutorial .....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Will get mine on Friday..
Looking now for...
http://www.dal-tec.com/smarteq.asp
or
http://cgi.ebay.nl/THB-Bury-UNI-Sys...ryZ35193QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
any expierences with that or simalar units from other brands?

This ruins the 12V cable originally supplied by Brodit/Proclip, correct?

No - I put a little bit of heatshrink tubing on the exposed metal part that doesn't go into the phone, and I'm using it as the charger still.

Hey guys/gals...
I bought a Y cable for my Tilt and when I plug it in to my phone and plug in an audio connector to external speakers and the power charger to the other side of the Y, I get charging, but the audio still comes out of the phones speaker and not to the adapter? Is there a setting I have to change to stop the audio from coming out of the phone and divert it to the audio out adapter?
Thanks for any help!

Congratulations!
You have given me the confidence to get on and do mine. Spookily, yesterday my audio output from IGo started being fed to my car speakers via bluetooth for no apparent reason! Getting the nav instructions is my main purpose here. It wont last Im sure . .

Use the BT Toggle app someone here designed. It works GREAT!!
ANyone know why audio won't come out of the Y splitter for my Tilt? Do I need to switch something on/off in the phone to divert the audio from the phones speaker to the audio jack?
Thanks

Did you verify that it works on another HTC phone? It's just plug and play on all of my HTC phones.

Nice Modding guide...
may do this, but can you tell me if the Brodit/ProClip stuff puts the Kaiser in a good enough position to use it's built in GPS?

Sure, it works just fine where it's mounted.

mega_jamie said:
Nice Modding guide...
may do this, but can you tell me if the Brodit/ProClip stuff puts the Kaiser in a good enough position to use it's built in GPS?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just got back from a 650 mile round trip weekend, and YES, the Brodit/Proclip put my Tilt in a perfect place for the satellites/GPS to work wonderfully.

Athena JTAG pins

Hi.
I have done a little research about JATG pins trying to find a way to revive my dead X7500. I know it is difficult and that (possibly) a X7500 board needs to be disassembled but i wonder if it would be somehow easier to be done with X7500.
For example i saw an eten motherboard where jtag pins were easily located.
http://i591.photobucket.com/albums/ss354/son_hui/JTAGroverorsio.jpg
But i also saw the exec striped motherboard.....
Anyway.. what i want to say is that an effort to find the jtag pins would help many devices to become functional again.
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Well, there is a debug connector on the athena. More information about the debug connector can be found here: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=2512981&postcount=12
You can see the connector on the right of the motherboard. Now i'm trying to find a way to connect my wiggler clone cable to the debug connector. The connector pins are too small to work with my soldering iron...is any other way to get connected?
That's the cable i'm using: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350206464946#ebayphotohosting
and i'm planning to use pins : TDO,TDI,TMS,nTRST,TCK and the charger connected on the motherboard. Do i have to use the ground connector also...or something else?

Hi nicktgr15,
maybe you'll need a smaller solder iron
Serious, there's no other way than to solder some thin wires to the debug pads.
Maybe you'll find some bigger contacts nearby, that belong to the same connection.
and i'm planning to use pins : TDO,TDI,TMS,nTRST,TCK and the charger connected on the motherboard. Do i have to use the ground connector also...or something else?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes you'll need GND too!
As your adaptor is a buffered one, you should sort out the VCC pad on the debug connector also. This voltage is needed to power up the buffer IC on your adaptor.
P.S.: the biggest problem would be to rewrite something into Athena's flash chip. As far as i know this is a G4-DoC from MSystems and there's no JTAG solution for this part .
Anyway, good luck for your experiments!
scholbert

Hi Scholbert
Thanks for the reply. I know that this will be the hard part as i have read your adventures with universal but for the moment i just want to connect it.
I'll get a thinner tip for my soldering iron and give it a try. Unfortunately the pins around the debug port are not helping
I'll post my results here.
Regards
Nick

I have a similar problem could possibly sealed the processor and find jtag contacts in this way.

Just out of interest: I am used to JTAG flashing on satellite receivers (see my signature).
The pictured JTAG interface looks pretty much like the ones I often use. Regarding the power, mine use a battery to power them up or I can solder a DCC connection. I think that is safer than to get the power from the actual device.
The other thing is: it is not enough to just get the physical connection to the JTAG pins. One need to put the processor of the device in JTAG mode and then control the flash chip through this CPU.
Either you have a flash utility for the JTAG interface, or it will be completly useless.
I might me missing such a tool, in which case I would love to have a link to download it (don't need it, but just in case).
Cheers,
vma

Is this possible? (component replacement)

I have a working TMOUS HD2 motherboard which have a "broken/ripped off" lcd connector.
I also have a non working/bricked TMOUS HD2 motherboard complete and without any physical problem.
Is there any possibility to replace this connector?
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Any help would be much appreciated.

Is the part here?
http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/parts-for-htc-hd2.html

I highly doubt it. That connector is more than likely surface mounted with little tiny pins soldered to the other side of the board, and would be amazingly difficult to remove and replace correctly by hand.

That's what I thought...
But it seems that I don't have nothing to lose...
I even have a third broken motherboard (also with a ripped lcd connector) where I can test the "removal" an "relocation" of the component. I know it's difficult, but there is too much to win and almost nothing to lose.
Any tech approach would be appreciated.

I tried to remove it with a heat gun.
It was VERY EASY and the removal was perfect!
Next I removed a good lcd connector from another phone (also without a problem) and that's where the problems began.
Soldering with a heat gun, which is not designed for precision work is like killing a bug with a bazooka... you will kill the bug but you will break something else...
End of story... ended with 2 non working motherboards and learned that I need a reworking station for this kind of work.

its easy I done them so many times without fail
MGA2009 said:
I tried to remove it with a heat gun.
It was VERY EASY and the removal was perfect!
Next I removed a good lcd connector from another phone (also without a problem) and that's where the problems began.
Soldering with a heat gun, which is not designed for precision work is like killing a bug with a bazooka... you will kill the bug but you will break something else...
End of story... ended with 2 non working motherboards and learned that I need a reworking station for this kind of work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
its easy and done it many times sorry you couldn't done it

Tips on how to replace the lcd connector on logic board
dan18 said:
its easy and done it many times sorry you couldn't done it
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry but can you assist some of us with the same problem in few short tips before I destroy my motherboard too

I might be wrong but is it just the clip that is broken? Do the contacts still connect? It might be possible to glue a thin strip of metal to the plastic ends of the motherboard's connector to hold the ribbon cable connector in place. Might work

Nexus 7 USB Port (Broken Solder Pad)

Hi,
My Nexus 7 Gen 2 usb stopped charging (it was on/off for a while but now fully stopped).
I ordered a new USB component from eBay so I was desoldering the old one this morning but unfortunatley the 5 pins at the back ripped a few of the pads from the board off.
I was wondering before I order a new USB PCB for £40 is it possible to re trace the 5 pins and wire them to somewhere different on the board??
Looking at this picture this is what I thought I could do:
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Is this possible and if so the best way to fix this?
Thanks

Rowan88 said:
Hi,
My Nexus 7 Gen 2 usb stopped charging (it was on/off for a while but now fully stopped).
I ordered a new USB component from eBay so I was desoldering the old one this morning but unfortunatley the 5 pins at the back ripped a few of the pads from the board off.
I was wondering before I order a new USB PCB for £40 is it possible to re trace the 5 pins and wire them to somewhere different on the board??
Looking at this picture this is what I thought I could do:
Is this possible and if so the best way to fix this?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You could try soldering to those solder pads right before the resistors/caps in the path. If you bypass those, and solder directly to the exposed pads you identified, you may have issues, i.e. those resistors/caps are probably there for a reason . That's what I would try anyways.

did you ever end up soldering to these pads? cause any issues?

neonshaun said:
did you ever end up soldering to these pads? cause any issues?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
nevermind, didnt work of course. Ended up soldering to the pads just before those caps, just needed to not be lazy about it.

iPod Classic [USB C addon] [WIP]

.
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This is in the concept stage. There are no guarantees.
I am converting my Ipod classic to use a series of SD cards, and I picked up a spare iPod for cheap. This is going to be my work log for removing the stock 30 pin connector and replacing it with a USB C connector. I'll need to design and 3d print the bottom cover of the device except where the connector is. I'm not even sure if there's enough room on the board for this to happen, I might end up needing to cut into the iPod board and do tracing stuff to make room.

One thing I'm wondering is if I can attach the firewire of the iPod to the firewire of the USB c port. I think I'll try to make a 30pin connector to USB C to test and see if there's any advantage before I attach anything to the board itself.
http://pinouts.ru/PortableDevices/ipod_pinout.shtml
https://i.stack.imgur.com/Aovh5.png
https://www.mill-max.com/assets/pdfs/149.2.pdf
update 12/20/2018
I have a 3d printer now, and the dev boards have arrived.

Reserved2

Please update your work log!
I thought I was the only one wishing to upgrade my port along with my other mods to my ipod. I'm curious as to how you did it and what steps you took to make it happen! Following for future updates.

tkillen96 said:
I thought I was the only one wishing to upgrade my port along with my other mods to my ipod. I'm curious as to how you did it and what steps you took to make it happen! Following for future updates.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately I'm stuck. I've tried translating the pins from one to another, but nothing I've tried works. It does not recognize it.
If someone knows what pins to what to make the conversion, all I care about is making sure it can still charge and sync. Not the other 30 pin features.

Any updates to this?

DR650SE said:
Any updates to this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Am wondering the same, has anyone else attempted this? Wonder if there's a QI adapter anywhere. Would love to get rid of the crappy charging cable it requires.

Great project any news

lets reignite this project !
Save the BS and simplify it, just 4 pins, "D+", "D-", "5V+" and "GND", these are all we need to charge and transfer data.
What was the road block here? just unable to obtain USB connection ? Type C is a little tricky as it has a parallel design like lightning. Maybe you had got the pinout jumbled or connected one side in reverse? Ordering some test boards and Type C port components to see what i can achieve!
https://www.theiphonewiki.com/wiki/30-pin_Connector
Someone else commented about QI charging, it is entirely possible and would not be very difficult to do, the only problem is the iPod has a solid metal back so it would need a custom manufactured back replacement. I absolutely love the idea but i dont think anyone has the money/time/resources to design, manufacture the parts required. Because even if they did they would be sitting on it for a very long time with very limited sales(not to mention how many different variations.)