Inspired on this hardware mod I followed on my Nexus 4 years ago I decided to experiment with my LG G5 after experiencing unstable performance while gaming, tried tweaking the software with kernels and roms but with no noticeable results longterm.
This mod is fairly easy, there is a 0.6mm gap between our processor-ram chip and the metal frame under the screen, I didn't find a copper plate to use and didn't want to wait to order it online so I made one by stacking copper wires and soldering them together, then gradually trimming it with sand paper, so performance could be even better. Used thermal paste on either side, stick the plate on the chip side first and apply some pressure. Attached pictures of the process and benchmark results. Results can be repeated indefinitely with no variation within the margin of error. Ambient temperature is very hot here in the south of Spain, with no AC used.
Rom used is Lineage 15.1 by x86cpu stock kernel with no tweaks.
View attachment 4558395View attachment 4558396
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Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk
Here are 4 consecutive antutu runs at 32°C ambient temperature, before doing so I was streaming in twitch with it for a while. (phone with mod)
https://i.imgur.com/zPivOMH.png
https://i.imgur.com/sxk1uEK.png
https://i.imgur.com/YTPoPOD.png
https://i.imgur.com/1vvuvuN.png
awesome work.. i see this run very well in past, with snapdragon 810 smartphones based. But i think if us use a metal glued in back part of the lg g5, maybe the overheat down, because lg g5 body is a aluminum material, used like sink of temperature... anyway, this score is very high and stable... better than the lg g6 (SNAPDRAGON 821) and lg v20 (SNAPDRAGON 820). thanks for sharing us, your great work Maybe I try this in my lg g5 h830 ?
sedrake said:
awesome work.. i see this run very well in past, with snapdragon 810 smartphones based. But i think if us use a metal glued in back part of the lg g5, maybe the overheat down, because lg g5 body is a aluminum material, used like sink of temperature... anyway, this score is very high and stable... better than the lg g6 (SNAPDRAGON 821) and lg v20 (SNAPDRAGON 820). thanks for sharing us, your great work Maybe I try this in my lg g5 h830 [emoji106]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! The processor on LG G5 is on the other side of the motherboard, it makes no contact to the back of the phone sadly, it would work even better. The good thing is that the screen frame is also made of metal and generates plenty of dissipation. [emoji108]
Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk
jaggyjags said:
Thanks! The processor on LG G5 is on the other side of the motherboard, it makes no contact to the back of the phone sadly, it would work even better. The good thing is that the screen frame is also made of metal and generates plenty of dissipation. [emoji108]
Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOOK THAT... Not to great score like your internal mod, but awesome external mod... for me ?
The heat pipes is very very hot. So, the lg g5 use your aluminum body like a thermal condition... my score have 2k more with thermal pads and dreamcast heat pipes ?
jaggyjags said:
Inspired on this hardware mod I followed on my Nexus 4 years ago I decided to experiment with my LG G5 after experiencing unstable performance while gaming, tried tweaking the software with kernels and roms but with no noticeable results longterm.
This mod is fairly easy, there is a 0.6mm gap between our processor-ram chip and the metal frame under the screen, I didn't find a copper plate to use and didn't want to wait to order it online so I made one by stacking copper wires and soldering them together, then gradually trimming it with sand paper, so performance could be even better. Used thermal paste on either side, stick the plate on the chip side first and apply some pressure. Attached pictures of the process and benchmark results. Results can be repeated indefinitely with no variation within the margin of error. Ambient temperature is very hot here in the south of Spain, with no AC used.
Rom used is Lineage 15.1 by x86cpu stock kernel with no tweaks.
View attachment 4558395View attachment 4558396View attachment 4558397View attachment 4558398View attachment 4558399View attachment 4558429View attachment 4558430
Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a metal cover over my chips. How did you pull that off and did you have any issue with interferance after that? I assume thats what its for.
corvettezo7sp said:
I have a metal cover over my chips. How did you pull that off and did you have any issue with interferance after that? I assume thats what its for.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What you see it's just a metal shield hold together with some clips, use your finger nail or the tip a knife to gently lift it up, it's reversible. It was probably intended to protect against electromagnetic interference but I'm pretty sure it's a preventive measure with no real benefits of having it on, the other three covers are still used and I believe no radio chips are on the section I removed.
jaggyjags said:
What you see it's just a metal shield hold together with some clips, use your finger nail or the tip a knife to gently lift it up, it's reversible. It was probably intended to protect against electromagnetic interference but I'm pretty sure it's a preventive measure with no real benefits of having it on, the other three covers are still used and I believe no radio chips are on the section I removed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Got it! Used a artic thermal pad. When playing games I get a blue spot on the screen where the processor is it gets so hot so I know it working. Max temp is 58 degrees Celsius. Must have put something together incorrectly because my touch screen jitters a bit swiping like not all the digitizer sensors are seeing my figure. I do, thanks for the post. These phones are so cheap though. If I need another ill just buy one for 60$.
corvettezo7sp said:
Got it! Used a artic thermal pad. When playing games I get a blue spot on the screen where the processor is it gets so hot so I know it working. Max temp is 58 degrees Celsius. Must have put something together incorrectly because my touch screen jitters a bit swiping like not all the digitizer sensors are seeing my figure. I do, thanks for the post. These phones are so cheap though. If I need another ill just buy one for 60$.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I used sand paper to make it the right thickness, if the metal plate is too thick you will see a purplish shadow on that area, it's just caused by too much pressure under the screen, try it several times without thermal paste until you see no shadow. The 0.6mm I said was my guess comparing it with some coins and their widths, it may be 0.5mm, don't have the right measurement equipment. Don't worry, the blue spot will go away completely.
It makes sense for the shadow to be worse with heat because metal expands slightly with it. The motherboard should lie nearly flat over the screen frame after you put all the screws.
I'm not sure about the touch screen responsiveness, had no issues on my test even with slightly thick metal plate, could go away without the screen stress under it.
Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk
jaggyjags said:
Thanks, I used sand paper to make it the right thickness, if the metal plate is too thick you will see a purplish shadow on that area, it's just caused by too much pressure under the screen, try it several times without thermal paste until you see no shadow. The 0.6mm I said was my guess comparing it with some coins and their widths, it may be 0.5mm, don't have the right measurement equipment. Don't worry, the blue spot will go away completely.
It makes sense for the shadow to be worse with heat because metal expands slightly with it. The motherboard should lie nearly flat over the screen frame after you put all the screws.
I'm not sure about the touch screen responsiveness, had no issues on my test even with slightly thick metal plate, could go away without the screen stress under it.
Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its actually perfectly responsive, just not smooth. May be an app I installed so I will try resetting first. Not sure how I would file down a thermal pad. Its like a gritty rubber. Here's the link to what I got: ARCTIC - Thermal Pad 50 x 50 x 1.0 mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UYTTDO6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wvJBBbP1943TM Its super efficient. Maybe I could take it apaart again and press on the voard to flatten it a bit more.
corvettezo7sp said:
Its actually perfectly responsive, just not smooth. May be an app I installed so I will try resetting first. Not sure how I would file down a thermal pad. Its like a gritty rubber. Here's the link to what I got: ARCTIC - Thermal Pad 50 x 50 x 1.0 mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UYTTDO6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wvJBBbP1943TM Its super efficient. Maybe I could take it apaart again and press on the voard to flatten it a bit more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, I misunderstood, probably 1mm thermal pad makes too much pressure on the screen when trying to flatten it to half of its thickness.
I found very cheap metal plates on ebay and aliexpress which is always better in terms of thermal conductivity compared to thermal pads. Or maybe thinner pads are also available.
http://m.aliexpress.com/item/32773823737.html?source=images
Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk
jaggyjags said:
Oh, I misunderstood, probably 1mm thermal pad makes too much pressure on the screen when trying to flatten it to half of its thickness.
I found very cheap metal plates on ebay and aliexpress which is always better in terms of thermal conductivity compared to thermal pads. Or maybe thinner pads are also available.
http://m.aliexpress.com/item/32773823737.html?source=images
Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Reset and screen is smooth again. No idea what happened but something changed while it was apart. I will order one of those. I really appreciate it. Whats your max temp with your metal material?? Not sure if 58c is high but before my entire phone would get hot. Now its just the front display. I really appreciate your thread and insight.
corvettezo7sp said:
Its actually perfectly responsive, just not smooth. May be an app I installed so I will try resetting first. Not sure how I would file down a thermal pad. Its like a gritty rubber. Here's the link to what I got: ARCTIC - Thermal Pad 50 x 50 x 1.0 mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UYTTDO6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wvJBBbP1943TM Its super efficient. Maybe I could take it apaart again and press on the voard to flatten it a bit more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
really interesting...I would choose the pad with 0,5 mm...think this would do the trick...just bought two G5s with an broken display and ordered a display. you get photos if everything is prepared.
perhaps this pad is more efficient:
https://www.amazon.de/Alphacool-Eis...1533978184&sr=1-9&keywords=thermal+pad+1&th=1
MaStErB_1984 said:
really interesting...I would choose the pad with 0,5 mm...think this would do the trick...just bought two G5s with an broken display and ordered a display. you get photos if everything is prepared.
perhaps this pad is more efficient:
https://www.amazon.de/Alphacool-Eis...1533978184&sr=1-9&keywords=thermal+pad+1&th=1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Definitely. Its 14w/mk. Much better than I got. Although I do beleive our cpus only need 1.5w/nk to be sufficient. Maybe ill get some of that and experiment with all the different materials. Ill post pictures myself if I dissasemble again. Since the reset though everyrhing has been smooth and cool. I'm in that dont touch but play harder mode. PUBG is flawless now and I havent lost a game since the mod. ? perfectly smooth through every game!
corvettezo7sp said:
Definitely. Its 14w/mk. Much better than I got. Although I do beleive our cpus only need 1.5w/nk to be sufficient. Maybe ill get some of that and experiment with all the different materials. Ill post pictures myself if I dissasemble again. Since the reset though everyrhing has been smooth and cool. I'm in that dont touch but play harder mode. PUBG is flawless now and I havent lost a game since the mod. perfectly smooth through every game!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Very interesting!
You must use thermally conductive pads? It is not enough to use a thermo-conductive paste only, like in pc cpu?
coolmaker said:
Very interesting!
You must use thermally conductive pads? It is not enough to use a thermo-conductive paste only, like in pc cpu?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Correct. The gap is too wide to use paste only. The thermal paste has a conductivity rating of 6 w/mk but only when its super thin. Like 1 1000ths of an inch thick. The thermal pads have the same heat conductivity even when they are thicker and are allot cleaner for the small space they are.
corvettezo7sp said:
Correct. The gap is too wide to use paste only. The thermal paste has a conductivity rating of 6 w/mk but only when its super thin. Like 1 1000ths of an inch thick. The thermal pads have the same heat conductivity even when they are thicker and are allot cleaner for the small space they are.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are amazing, Thank you for the explanation, I did not know that!
coolmaker said:
You are amazing, Thank you for the explanation, I did not know that!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here's some more pictures to make it easier or if you have done it already for someone who hasn't done it. I have a G5 that broke. Miss it, it was my first one. Definitely better than my current one. The previous owners water damage finally did it in. Anyway, here's a picture of the main board with screws and cameras removed in the display frame, a picture of the motherboard folded over from the left of the display frame, and a picture of the CPU up close. I have removed all shields so you will need to pull those off if you haven't already. I recommend plastic. Also these pictures will help you see where it lines up on the frame. Also while your in there you should do the GPS fix. Re assembly will either fix it or make it worse if it was previously working. Also the last picture is of the small connector that lines up to the rear of the frame. If you screw this up you may have signal issues. Line up the top of the display first before assembly. Don't slide the display up. Anyway, I'm going to also try thermal pads on the rear of the CPU next to see if the power supply resistors could use cooling as well.
Luckily I found this on time because the temp was around 85 C and it was leaving alot of image retention, after finding out this mod, I took a penny and filed it down thin enough not too thin but not too thick and then I put thermal paste on the CPU and have the penny in the same area as the CPU, it is a very tight fit and the screen is slightly warped upwards, but no problems and it has been much cooler, dropped it by 50 - 60 C. I give you lots of kudos for this :3
Hello everyone, just a follow question up to some of the comments.
Does the 0.5mm thermal pad fit? or is it better to use the copper sheets?
Thank you!
Related
Ok, so I let my brother borrow my Transformer to take with him as he spent the week at my mom's house. I should have known better...
Apparently my nephew dropped it, which caused an ugly dent directly on the corner of the bezel; in addition, one of the edges also developed a sizeable gap between the glass and the bezel that extended halfway across the tablet.
I decided to make a positive into a negative- I tore down the transformer, manipulated the bezel to be bent back into place (as close as I could get it), then polished it all the way around.
All in all, it was pretty simple - After tearing the TF apart, I just soaked the bezel in Greased Lightning for about 10 min to remove the anodization; then, I sanded it smooth using a combination of wet-sandpapers (800 Grit for the real rough spots, and a combination of 1000, 1500, 2000, and 3000 grit wet sanding paper); finally, I buffed it out using a cotton buff wheel on my dremel with Turtle Wax rubbing compound.
Credit goes to:
WhiteSites for the inspiration from his work on the Sensation 4G
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1184568
Below are some pics of the process and the results:
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Finished Transformer Front Screen Side
Transformer Bezel de-anodized HDMI Side
Transformer Bezel being de-anodized
Transformer Bezel being de-anodized 2
Transformer Bezel being de-anodized 3
Transformer Bezel being de-anodized 4
After rinsing with Vinegar to neutralize the acid, I let it sit and soak in a soap bucket for a couple of minutes
Transformer Bezel Hanging for Rinse
Finished Transformer Dock Side
Transformer Corner Beginning Sanding
Transformer Corner Sanding
Transformer Corner Sanding 2
Transformer next to iPad
Finished Transformer Back cover and sides
Finished Transformer pwr and volume
Finished Transformer top blank side
Finished Transformer HDMI Side
Finished Transformer Corner
Finished Transformer Corner Edge
Finished Transformer Corner Direct View
looks purty. you don't have a matching dock?
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk
I can't imagine how much work would have to go into making the dock match the bezel like that. Personally I would be too afraid of breaking the keys on the keyboard during the removal process.
looks damn good. I was debating on doing a flat/matte/satin black thing with the bezel not too long ago.
just brought it back
finalhit said:
looks purty. you don't have a matching dock?
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nah, I have the dock but have not journeyed that far yet. Who knows I may end up Modding it to match.
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk
I did end up Modding the dock to match the mirrored look
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk
so uh... when are you going to polish my bezel?
that sounds dirty
dbiggss said:
I did end up Modding the dock to match the mirrored look
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Got pics? I'd love to see that, though I'd be too terribly frightened to attempt it on my own TF.
jordanjay29 said:
Got pics? I'd love to see that, though I'd be too terribly frightened to attempt it on my own TF.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+ 1 on that!
Here it go snapped a couple of quick pics for ya.
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk
That is beyond awesome. I've never really liked the color of the transformer, it's just so boring and uninspiring. This may be what causes me to void my warranty (The guys at my local Asus shop don't care that I rooted my transformer. When I returned it for a defect I even booted it up with the custom boot screen and told them I put an overseas version of the rom on it). I am definitely going to do this.
A couple of requests/questions:
1) Can we get some more higher quality or close-up pictures of the final product? I really want a better look at the back of it to see the contrast between the bezel and the back plate. Also of hinge, and well everything. The more pictures the better. I'm especially interested in pictures showing the contrast between the bezel/dock and the other parts of the transformer.
2) Also looks like you didn't do the hinge, right? Haven't taken mine apart yet, it's on my to do list, so I guessing that part may not be possible to do or really difficult.
3) What is greased lightning? I'm in China now, so I can't buy American brand names anymore. I know heavy duty cleaning product. But is it like for household or industrial use? I think I saw it once in autoparts store. I'm guessing it's like that purple power stuff I used to use to clean my motor and rims on my car. Had to wear thick gloves to keep it from messing up my hands.
4) Is sanding it necessary? Mine is undamaged and I'd like to keep it that way. I'm guessing the bezel is pretty thin and during sanding could easily be damaged. It looks like you just sanded out the damage that had occurred when it was dropped.
5) How did the key removal process go?
Once, again thank you. This is a totally awesome idea. I've got me some new Chinese words to learn so I can go buy the materials to make this happen.
I am glad that's you are interested! I will post more info tommorow and answer the questions that you have.
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk
typci said:
That is beyond awesome. I've never really liked the color of the transformer, it's just so boring and uninspiring. This may be what causes me to void my warranty (The guys at my local Asus shop don't care that I rooted my transformer. When I returned it for a defect I even booted it up with the custom boot screen and told them I put an overseas version of the rom on it). I am definitely going to do this.
A couple of requests/questions:
1) Can we get some more higher quality or close-up pictures of the final product? I really want a better look at the back of it to see the contrast between the bezel and the back plate. Also of hinge, and well everything. The more pictures the better. I'm especially interested in pictures showing the contrast between the bezel/dock and the other parts of the transformer.
2) Also looks like you didn't do the hinge, right? Haven't taken mine apart yet, it's on my to do list, so I guessing that part may not be possible to do or really difficult.
3) What is greased lightning? I'm in China now, so I can't buy American brand names anymore. I know heavy duty cleaning product. But is it like for household or industrial use? I think I saw it once in autoparts store. I'm guessing it's like that purple power stuff I used to use to clean my motor and rims on my car. Had to wear thick gloves to keep it from messing up my hands.
4) Is sanding it necessary? Mine is undamaged and I'd like to keep it that way. I'm guessing the bezel is pretty thin and during sanding could easily be damaged. It looks like you just sanded out the damage that had occurred when it was dropped.
5) How did the key removal process go?
Once, again thank you. This is a totally awesome idea. I've got me some new Chinese words to learn so I can go buy the materials to make this happen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry about the delay, I have been crazy busy lately. I havent had the opportunity to take any new pics yet.
To answer your questions in the meantime:
2). Your correct, I did not do the hinge. However, I am sure that it would be possible to polish that part also -- and I dont think that it would be very difficult at all. The only reason that I didn't go that far is because of time... My plan was/is to sell the transformer+dock together to offset some costs towards getting the Prime... It just got to the point that It seemed like any more time that I would sink into it wouldn't benefit me because I am going to sell it and I figured that it wouldnt get me any more $$$.
3). Your right on the track! Greased Lightning is very similar to Purple Power. As a matter of fact, I ran out of Greased lightning and I actually had to use Purple Power for the Dock.
The Greased Lightning worked better, but I am not sure if the Anodization was just more stubborn on the dock.
The MAIN INGREDIENT that needs to be in the cleaner is "SODIUM HYDROXIDE", which removes the anodization. It is commonly found in oven cleaners, such as "EZ OFF". I did use gloves and took the pictures from my phone during the process which is the reason I don't have more of them-- it became a pain, going back and forth cleaning my hands, taking off gloves, taking pics, etc...
When the anodization was removed I also rinsed the pieces with vinegar and lemon juice briefly to neutralize the acid before rinsing in water w/soap.
4). The sanding is necessary if you are looking for the mirror finish - it really depends on how far you want to go with it. I sanded the entire thing. The keyboard ended up being a real ***** because (and again, im not sure if it is because I used Purple Power instead of Greased Lightning for that part), the anodization did not come off 100% on the dock part with just the cleaner.
5). Although it was a bit tricky, the key removal process wasn't too bad, but it of course requires patience and its important to be careful. The keyboard is glued to the palmrest (top) portion of the dock and the board and everything else is screwed to the base of the dock.
After removing the screws (2 only under the back feet) under the feet I used a guitar pick to carefully unlatch/separate the dock - starting from the back.
After the dock was opened, the keyboard was attached to the board by a ribbon cable that looks the same as you would expect on a standard laptop keyboard. I attempted to raise the lock lever to release the keyboard ribbon connector, but it seemed like it was glued or stationary, so I decided to leave it alone to avoid breaking anything. ---As I was separating the keyboard from the palmrest, the ribbon cable slipped out, but I was able to finesse it back in without messing with the lock/latch and it works fine.
At this point, I went back to using the guitar pick to gently finesse the keyboard away from the palmrest portion that was to be polished. The two are attached with a fairly strong adhesive and just require patience. I used a heatgun during the process, but it didn't seem to really help at all anyways.
---From their on, I polished it, used superglue to reattach the palmrest to the keyboard, reassembled everything and I was good to go!
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk
Really slick job! I like it a lot.
Thanks. It's freezing cold here and raining everyday for the next week, so not great weather to ride my motorcycle in to say the least. When the weather improves a bit, I'll begin my journey to find the materials I need. Thanks.
Also, you said "sodium hydroxide" (NaOH) was the key ingredient? That's lye, the main ingredient in drain cleaners, and an insanely strong base. Which means a drain cleaner may also be usable. I know where to get some drain cleaner, that I think is mostly NaOH with some thickeners mixed in. Also it's safe to use on metal so I won't have to worry about it damaging the bezel. I'm a chemist by trade so I think I maybe able to find a substitute for the the greased lightning. Also with what you said about the purple power not being strong enough, I can control the strength of the solution if I start with a concentrated NaOH solution. That'll be a lot easier to find than an industrial degreaser. Finding things in China can be a real pain sometime.
Try looking up the MSDS on Greased Lightning, I believe it gives the concentration of NaOH used.
What grit sandpaper would you stop at if you were going for a brushed metal look?
2000 wet or dry should work great for polishing. Stopping at 800 would give a rougher surface. If you want a true "brushed" look, try getting up to 2000 grit and neatly wipe the parts with a Scotch Brite pad. As far as de-anodizing I have used Easy off oven cleaner (the lethal yellow can) to remove it in the past. It works great, just let the parts sit in the warm sun for about 30 minutes before spraying the Easy Off on them.
Also, when your done polishing the parts, you can clear coat them to keep the shine indefinitely.
sent from my ASUS Transformer running Prime 2.1.1 using Tapatalk
JoshX said:
Try looking up the MSDS on Greased Lightning, I believe it gives the concentration of NaOH used.
What grit sandpaper would you stop at if you were going for a brushed metal look?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
2000 would be good, but I am fanatical about the 3M 3000 grit sheets. they are like $6 at autozone or an automotive supply store and are designed with a sponge like back layer, so its not just regular paper.
Where do i call to get this help
Very good! doesnt seems like u even dropped it (ur son/brother)
dbiggss said:
2000 would be good, but I am fanatical about the 3M 3000 grit sheets. they are like $6 at autozone or an automotive supply store and are designed with a sponge like back layer, so its not just regular paper.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome! I'll try the 3000. Do you have any suggestions on a brand of clear coat to use?
Ok guys,
First off, I'd like to give a little disclaimer, opening your tablet and/or doing mods is dangerous for the tablet and could potentially lead to either breaking something or destroying your tablet. You're forewarned and I'm not responsible for any damage you do to your own device.
The idea:
The Nexus 9 gets quite hot. Especially when holding the tablet directly on the back, the NFC antenna area gets quite warm because the SOC Tegra K1 is right behind it on the motherboard. The idea is to 1. Create better cooling performance and 2. Create a barrier for the heat so the back of the tablet no longer gets that hot.
The Mod:
Step 1:
Remove the back cover of the tablet. It's super easy. Basically if you have a decent fingernail all you need is that. Just gently squeeze your fingernail between the back and the aluminum side and you should then feel and hear a little popping noise. This is the tabs all around the cover popping off. Once you do this, you should be able to remove the back of the cover without damaging anything.
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Step 2:
Get access to the motherboard. You'll notice the top of the tablet has copper foil at the top. This is the "shielding" which we will utilize as the heatsink. Obviously its very little copper and doesn't possess alot of thermal capacity to hold alot of heat. All we're doing here is creating a barrier so that the copper can soak up some of the heat from the Tegra K1 chip.
You don't need to remove the motherboard but here's what we're trying to get at. Behind this tin cover is the chip.
Add foam or a thick (1-2mm) piece of double sided tape that allows for the area to be compressed. This will basically ensure that the tin shield and copper are pressed against the Tegra K1 chip. This basically is the alternate to screwing down the heatsink like we would on a PC or laptop.
Step 5:
Put the back back on the tablet. You'll notice that the foam really sticks out and doesn't allow the cover to fully reattach to the tablet. You'll have to make sure its not TOO thick or the back won't go back on properly. Remember, the NFC antenna prongs are close to this area so you can't make it too thick or else the tablet won't turn on.
You'll notice the back is raised a tad in that area but it also feels very firm because the foam is pressing against the motherboard where the chip is. This will make us sure that the foam is doing the job of pressing the tin and copper shield against the chip.
After that you're done. It's a simple mod and it should drop your tablet anywhere from 2-5C for a little period of time. Obviously the cooling isn't active cooling so after a certain amount of benchmarking or stress on the chip, it'll begin to warm like normal.
Good luck. Let me know what you guys think. I considered replacing the tin shield with copper but decided that'd be a bad idea.
Don't think step 4, adding the foam to the back of the chip is a good idea. All that's going to do is hold in the heat and not allow the chip to cool. The copper sheet is too thin to conduct much heat out from under it it.
Sent from my Nexus 9 using XDA Free mobile app
I think jd is correct .
Until now I newer had problems with heat. Its getting warm,
but no problems with that.
Sent from my Nexus 9 using XDA Free mobile app
OK guys... I think at this point after having the mod about a week that something better is due. I'll likely be picking up some copper tonight and I'll be shaping the copper for a heatsink instead of the emi shield. It should work way better... Hopefully
Philaphlous said:
OK guys... I think at this point after having the mod about a week that something better is due. I'll likely be picking up some copper tonight and I'll be shaping the copper for a heatsink instead of the emi shield. It should work way better... Hopefully
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
keep us posted!
I really want to try this mod.
Little bit worried that i will break something..
Lol that u need to resort to **** like this when proper thermal dissipation should have been added in first place like shield tablet.
Sent from my Nexus S using xda premium
demo23019 said:
Lol that u need to resort to **** like this when proper thermal dissipation should have been added in first place like shield tablet.
Sent from my Nexus S using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is a true statement. The tegra k1 chip an easily get upto the 72c thermal throttling limit with chrome.
What I've done so far is replaced the stock thermal pad with one of my own. It's from frozencpu and I think it's a fuijiboy thermal pad... At least I think it is. It's a few years old. However it works great! I'm now down to keeping the gpu from thermally throttling with benchmarks. The big downside is the chip still eventually heats up. The tin cover just doesn't have enough thermal capacity. So my only next step is to go all out and replace the tin emi shield with a solid copper one that's thicker and can hold more heat depending how I make it.
I'm not quite there yet with the copper sheet since I don't have it yet. But I've read a few articles and it looks like once a heat spreader of that kind is added, we should have no issue with heat... It'll even reduce the temperature of the back of the tablet.
I'll keep everyone posted on the next update.
Just to keep a figure in mind. I'm able to run antutu without any thermal throttling. Overclocked with 2.5ghz and 900mhz gpu. Thanks to the elementalx kernel
very nice work!
ive got a friend who can cut some copper plating.
So when your done and it works i would love some dimensions.
I took down some of the mod guide since it wasn't really a huge benefit. I'll be picking up some copper tomorrow and I'll be getting some glue to go with it. I'm on a big time budget do it might not be thermal glue but it'll still do the job...
Will one of those flat ram sinks fit in there?
toopy said:
Will one of those flat ram sinks fit in there?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No. There is barely enough clearance for anything. At best you can manage maybe a 2mm heatsink tops. I'm using a solid copper sheet that's 0.025 thick.. Which is about 8x thicker than the normal shield they come with... It's literally like a thick piece of aluminum foil...
I should have new pictures and results up tomorrow. I just got the solid sheet of copper today
Philaphlous said:
I took down some of the mod guide since it wasn't really a huge benefit. I'll be picking up some copper tomorrow and I'll be getting some glue to go with it. I'm on a big time budget do it might not be thermal glue but it'll still do the job...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
easy way to make thermal glue is to mix a solution of 1/2 araldite (epoxy) and 1/2 of your choice of thermal paste.
I use generally use Arctic silver 5 as that's what I normally have on hand.
and how is the WiFi radio reception after the copper alterations . there are calculations involved in having antenna design modifications that need to be considered.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Well the strange thing is the mod works great... However, it doesn't really help throttling... So something else has to be throttling down the chip...
Quite disappointing.
The actual chip will throttle at 72c ... However at 2.5ghz it's maxing around 68c on a stress test...
Another strange thing is when the gpu is overclocked to 950mhz the temps go through the roof on some stress tests. I've seen temps upto 87c when stressing the gpu and that's after the mod. Overclocking just 100mhz creates a huge temp difference for the gpu...
OK a revisit from the past... The mod helped some but it is still lacking. I ended up breaking down and purchasing 2mm thick thermal pads last night. This is vitally important for this mod. I will have a new guide up in a week or 2 once I get the pads and install them. I've realized the thermal transfer is terrible with the stock 0.5-1mm thermal pad... Hopefully this will finally resolve the heat issues.
Philaphlous said:
OK a revisit from the past... The mod helped some but it is still lacking. I ended up breaking down and purchasing 2mm thick thermal pads last night. This is vitally important for this mod. I will have a new guide up in a week or 2 once I get the pads and install them. I've realized the thermal transfer is terrible with the stock 0.5-1mm thermal pad... Hopefully this will finally resolve the heat issues.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
nice make lots of pictures ^^
Here is the heatsink I will be using. It is 0.025" thick copper. It's about 50x thicker than the copper foil previously used.
I should have the thermal pad here by Friday I think. Stay tuned.
I came across this thread and decided I would try this as well.
If I play a good 15-20 minutes of Kingdom Rush, the side would get really hot.
So I ordered a couple 1.2mm bronze heat pads from Amazon and just put them in.
The back cover just barely snapped back on, but it doesn't bulge or anything.
Now to go test it out.
I am very interested in this thread. What is the point of powerful cpus if they just get throttled.
wooo
:d:d:d:d:d:d:d:d:d:d
Edit: This is just a fun project. Every octa core phone throttles. That includes my S6. Its AnTuTu score from 5 back to back runs with similar 32C start ranges from 65K to 52K. That means a similar drop in performance. Also overheating & throttling are two very different things. Z3+ & S6 both throttle so that they don't get too hot (or 'overheat'). Glass backs on both don't help either, but I like them anyway. I was just trying to speed up the cooling process- not to cool down anything as the phone doesn't 'overheat' in the first place. You won't notice this throttling with regular usage & all these temperature numbers are for internal temp, not surface temp. I hope this clears up my intent. *End of Edit* 07/21/2015
This is probably the easiest way to decrease throttling during heavy CPU workload. All I had to do is insert few foil layers between the phone & TPU case. Attached picture shows plots from three scenarios - no case, just case, foil & case respectively. Oh, NFC will get blocked out by the foil. But I don't use it much anyway. Cheers.
#Reserved#
Very interesting thread, mate! It made my lazy as* to sign up just to post my results. Oh, I used this copper foil with a case. You won't need that much, btw lol
amazon dot com/Louis-Crafts-Copper-Foil-Inches/dp/B0042SWM98
My scores (normalized like yours) from 5 consecutive AnTuTu runs (& my initial temp was also a bit higher than yours)
Initial Temp (C) Score
0 34 100%
1 48.1 91.10%
2 49.1 86.86%
3 49.8 84.80%
4 50.1 83.00%
4K Test:
Outdoor-> 4 minutes in 96F / 35.5 degree Celsius weather (starting CPU temp was 37C as I was using few apps before the recording started )
Walked back home two minutes later and then
Indoor -> 9.5 minutes (CPU was still warm at 41C)
It really is the easiest fix ever for extreme users who use case anyway. Thanks!
nfs2010 said:
Oh, I used this copper foil with a case. You won't need that much, btw lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's freakin' awesome, dude :good: I never knew copper foil existed. Since I can't afford diamond foil, I'll go with copper I'll take the whole roll though as people are (primarily) using it for shielding their guitar pickups. Thanks a lot for your tip.
Have you guys considered the fact that the phone might, and let me say it again, MIGHT get hotter because we're in summer and it's seriously hot outside? I just checked the forecast for Austin TX, OP's town according to his info, and he has 37C over there. I think that MIIIIIIIIIIIIIIGHT have something to do with the phone getting hotter than usual.
Just saying.
schecter7 said:
This is probably the easiest way to decrease throttling during heavy CPU workload. All I had to do is insert few foil layers between the phone & TPU case. Attached picture shows plots from three scenarios - no case, just case, foil & case respectively. Oh, NFC will get blocked out by the foil. But I don't use it much anyway. Cheers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What do you think about putting foil around the actual battery? Some people have suggested putting paper around it. Does anyone think either of those things are safe?
MarkMRL said:
Have you guys considered the fact that the phone might, and let me say it again, MIGHT get hotter because we're in summer and it's seriously hot outside? I just checked the forecast for Austin TX, OP's town according to his info, and he has 37C over there. I think that MIIIIIIIIIIIIIIGHT have something to do with the phone getting hotter than usual.
Just saying.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, it's quite hot over here in ATX. I added an extra comment to my first post. I hope that makes things clear now.
pacattack81 said:
What do you think about putting foil around the actual battery? Some people have suggested putting paper around it. Does anyone think either of those things are safe?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The foil will short out the internal components and your phone may get toasted . Please DO NOT try it. But I really wanted to open the back and put some thermal compound like this one. I'll try it some day!
schecter7 said:
Yes, it's quite hot over here in ATX. I added an extra comment to my first post. I hope that makes things clear now.
The foil will short out the internal components and your phone may get toasted . Please DO NOT try it. But I really wanted to open the back and put some thermal compound like. I'll try it some day!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks I was very close to trying it out. Funny you should mention the thermal compound...there's a guy on YouTube who opened up the nexus 5 and put some on the CPU and a little piece of metal
heat sink. I have the thermal compound but I don't have the piece of heatsink to test it out so I haven't tried it. One day I'm going to try it though as I have a nexus 5.
pacattack81 said:
Thanks I was very close to trying it out. Funny you should mention the thermal compound...there's a guy on YouTube who opened up the nexus 5 and put some on the CPU and a little piece of metal
heat sink. I have the thermal compound but I don't have the piece of heatsink to test it out so I haven't tried it. One day I'm going to try it though as I have a nexus 5.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's great! You'll have better luck with the compound on the N5 as it has plastic back - I guess? On Z3+, I'll probably get bottle-necked by the glass back regardless of the internal enhancement. I could be wrong though if the heat sink goes all the way to metal side frame. It's certainly worth a shot.
As battery wrap, you'd probably want something that's thermally conductive AND electrically non-conductive.
schecter7 said:
That's great! You'll have better luck with the compound on the N5 as it has plastic back - I guess? On Z3+, I'll probably get bottle-necked by the glass back regardless of the internal enhancement. I could be wrong though if the heat sink goes all the way to metal side frame. It's certainly worth a shot.
As battery wrap, you'd probably want something that's thermally conductive AND electrically non-conductive.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yea, there's got to be something you can wrap around a smartphone battery that could shield in the heat. I just bought an oppo find 7a and it has a removable back. Maybe some sort of insulation can be put on the inside back cover so your hands don't feel the heat when the phone heats up. Any ideas for either the battery and/or back cover? What's thermally conductive, but not electrically conductive?
---------- Post added at 09:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:08 PM ----------
pacattack81 said:
Yea, there's got to be something you can wrap around a smartphone battery that could shield in the heat. I just bought an oppo find 7a and it has a removable back. Maybe some sort of insulation can be put on the inside back cover so your hands don't feel the heat when the phone heats up. Any ideas for either the battery and/or back cover? What's thermally conductive, but not electrically conductive?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can't post links yet, but what about putting some cotton insulation inside the back case? I would think that might shield us from holding a hot phone. Also, what about reflective insulation tape? I think that might actually work. Thoughts?
pacattack81 said:
Yea, there's got to be something you can wrap around a smartphone battery that could shield in the heat. I just bought an oppo find 7a and it has a removable back. Maybe some sort of insulation can be put on the inside back cover so your hands don't feel the heat when the phone heats up. Any ideas for either the battery and/or back cover? What's thermally conductive, but not electrically conductive?
---------- Post added at 09:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:08 PM ----------
I can't post links yet, but what about putting some cotton insulation inside the back case? I would think that might shield us from holding a hot phone. Also, what about reflective insulation tape? I think that might actually work. Thoughts?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wait, we're not on the same page. I was trying to avoid throttling (not shielding the heat). Z3+ back side heats up where the CPU seats (very small spot somewhere underneath the top row of icons). The idea was to take that heat and spread it laterally over a bigger surface area to speed up the cooling process. Without the foil, I still don't feel the heat as my fingers don't touch that hot spot. The foil also indirectly reduces the hot feel from that tiny spot as the heat gets spread more uniformly.
But your case sounds different. You want to avoid the heat from the battery (or the CPU) ? Battery already has a pretty big surface area. And you probably don't want to keep the heat inside by using thermal insulators as that can be very harmful for the battery. You probably want to establish an even faster heat transfer to the environment so that equilibrium point can be maintained at a lower surface temperature. Is that right? A metal back cover can help in that case.
Also here are some electrical insulators that are thermally conductive - but I'm not quite sure about the availability of those
https://www.physicsforums.com/threa...ductive-thermally-conductive-material.125368/
schecter7 said:
Wait, we're not on the same page. I was trying to avoid throttling (not shielding the heat). Z3+ back side heats up where the CPU seats (very small spot somewhere underneath the top row of icons). The idea was to take that heat and spread it laterally over a bigger surface area to speed up the cooling process. Without the foil, I still don't feel the heat as my fingers don't touch that hot spot. The foil also indirectly reduces the hot feel from that tiny spot as the heat gets spread more uniformly.
But your case sounds different. You want to avoid the heat from the battery (or the CPU) ? Battery already has a pretty big surface area. And you probably don't want to keep the heat inside by using thermal insulators as that can be very harmful for the battery. You probably want to establish an even faster heat transfer to the environment so that equilibrium point can be maintained at a lower surface temperature. Is that right? A metal back cover can help in that case.
Also here are some electrical insulators that are thermally conductive - but I'm not quite sure about the availability of those :confused
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've tried TPU cases, but I still feel the heat. Maybe a metal case would be better. These look interesting.
amazon(dot)com/gp/aw/d/B00HNKD6A6/ref=pd_aw_sbs_107_1?refRID=1VRK3Q399HJZXA2GHWCJ
amazon(dot)com/gp/aw/d/B00L71LNS4/ref=pd_aw_sbs_107_1?refRID=1BQ362P6XMYRJET82TFG
pacattack81 said:
I've tried TPU cases, but I still feel the heat. Maybe a metal case would be better. These look interesting.
amazon(dot)com/gp/aw/d/B00HNKD6A6/ref=pd_aw_sbs_107_1?refRID=1VRK3Q399HJZXA2GHWCJ
amazon(dot)com/gp/aw/d/B00L71LNS4/ref=pd_aw_sbs_107_1?refRID=1BQ362P6XMYRJET82TFG
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting! So why does your battery heat up in the first place? Did you try to compare your battery temp (using CPU Z, etc) to others'? I thought battery only heats up during charging.
schecter7 said:
Edit: This is just a fun project. Every octa core phone throttles.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That was genius--thank you.
I've attached a heatsink with thermal paste (cheap one) to my nexus 4 once it didn't make a difference
too bad i sold it i can't try it with my Peltier (TEC)
and my note 4 here is cooler without my tough armor (ofc it is, that case is a monster) i think i bent my phone while taking it out will try it with foil as soon as i get one, hope it doesn't damage it :S
a copper plate would be better! or simply a thin heatsink
I tried this maybe a year ago, phone was a lot cooler but I lost my reception. I noticed this after few days, everyone thought something had happend because they couldn't reach me. I was busy gaming ?
Because the phone is opened from the back (http://www.witrigs.com/blog/sony-xperia-z4-teardown/) we should crowdfund a metal replacement made of aluminium but in the same glossy style and color the frame is and with a copper base which directly connects to the thermonuclear fusion core (aka Qualcomm) so that the heat is as best as possible transported from these to the whole backplate. The only difficulty will be the holes for the camera and LED light to be waterproof. And while we are at it, we could make the backplate a little bit ticker than the glass currently is so that the tiny height difference between the glass and the frame is gone too.
Ok, we can argue about the color and thickness but you get the idea. Should we do that? Once we got them funded we can sell them and get rich
an3k said:
Because the phone is opened from the back (http://www.witrigs.com/blog/sony-xperia-z4-teardown/) we should crowdfund a metal replacement made of aluminium but in the same glossy style and color the frame is and with a copper base which directly connects to the thermonuclear fusion core (aka Qualcomm) so that the heat is as best as possible transported from these to the whole backplate. The only difficulty will be the holes for the camera and LED light to be waterproof. And while we are at it, we could make the backplate a little bit ticker than the glass currently is so that the tiny height difference between the glass and the frame is gone too.
Ok, we can argue about the color and thickness but you get the idea. Should we do that? Once we got them funded we can sell them and get rich
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That'd be excellent & throttling would probably be gone forever. I'm in But some dudes might mix up fast heat dissipation with 'overheating & throttling & battery drain' - all in one sentence The rear area that gets warm on Z3+ is actually very narrow & my fingers don't touch that part at all. But we've already seen a ridiculous amount of whining over that. Can you imagine the whining as we try to expand that dissipation area to get rid of throttling?
I think the thickness would be debatable as some may want to keep the slightly raised lips on the back to keep their phones from sliding around.
fredrik8 said:
I tried this maybe a year ago, phone was a lot cooler but I lost my reception. I noticed this after few days, everyone thought something had happend because they couldn't reach me. I was busy gaming
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lol - good point. It depends on the antenna placement - I think. I didn't experience any difference in reception. I usually get 0-1 bar at home. So I really didn't have anything to lose in the first place lol
If you do this and have the phone on max brightness, does it auto-dim when loading xda's website?
Due to all the ads and issues with the website it always causes the screens brightness to throttle when loading, and then go back to full brightness afterwards.
(Try loading a couple of different topics when doing this)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fh8SrJbQQSs
A quick look at the internals of latest Joying head unit. Opening is easy and you just remove the top cover to gain access to main board. You can also install a head sink/fan but for climate in my area it is not required. Overall the board layout is good, components used are pretty good and all connections seem just find. This new board is much smaller than previous Joying head unit.
Hope this helps!
dynamite647 said:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fh8SrJbQQSs
A quick look at the internals of latest Joying head unit. Opening is easy and you just remove the top cover to gain access to main board. You can also install a head sink/fan but for climate in my area it is not required. Overall the board layout is good, components used are pretty good and all connections seem just find. This new board is much smaller than previous Joying head unit.
Hope this helps!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the internal images. Suggestion for cooling doesnt make sense - unless the thermal requirements of the SOM are known, commentary is just hot air.
If providing commentary around component quality provide objective views.
Out of the box the CPU sits at around 80'C and thermally throttles down to protect itself. I'd say that tells something about the thermal requirements, and that the stock "cooling" solution isn't good enough. Personally, I have decided to mount a stock Intel heatsink on mine using Arctic Alumina thermal epoxy.
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I installed about 6 of these aluminium sinks. If the cpu starts to throttle on hotter days, I have the Cooltek silent fan to cool things down.
Lähetetty minun E6853 laitteesta Tapatalkilla
tuuza said:
I installed about 6 of these aluminium sinks. If the cpu starts to throttle on hotter days, I have the Cooltek silent fan to cool things down.
Lähetetty minun E6853 laitteesta Tapatalkilla
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How did you connect the fan inside the head unit? Also, did you drill intake / exhaust holes in the enclosure?
dan0luc said:
How did you connect the fan inside the head unit? Also, did you drill intake / exhaust holes in the enclosure?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have not yet installed the fan. I need to wait for summer time to see if it is really needed, the fan itself is VERY silent (12db), but its powerfull one for that size.
I think I will wire it up to the ACC wire, so it will start spinning when the headunit starts. The connector wires are visible on the inside of the unit.
Because its so silent, it doesn't bother me even when its not really needed. I have yet to decide if I will use it to exhaust the warm air, or pull cooler air from outside.
The units casing is not too sealed for the exhaust method, but if I would want to pull cool air in, I would drill small holes for the opposite side.
I would drill the hole for the fan itself, ofcourse.
Edit, the pull method is obviously more prefereable, because I could just add an dust filter for the fan, wich sucks air in.
If I would use the exhaust method, the air would be pulled fromm all of the holed in the unit and bring all the dust in.
Here's what I did. The fan is very silent, more than silent enough to be drowned out by other sounds in the car. I fed the wires through the grommet for one of the USB cables, and connected it to GND and ACC. Keeps the unit very cool, even in the tropical climate we have here in the Philippines, never see 50'C on the CPU now.
marchnz said:
Thanks for the internal images. Suggestion for cooling doesnt make sense - unless the thermal requirements of the SOM are known, commentary is just hot air.
If providing commentary around component quality provide objective views.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Fair enough, the component commentary was provided based on experience with similar items in past.
I will be doing further detailed testing of cooling system, this was just a basic overview. It would be about taking the heat generated from inside out more quickly/efficiently. OR vice versa for cold in/ hot out
Tnx
Hilari0 said:
Here's what I did. The fan is very silent, more than silent enough to be drowned out by other sounds in the car. I fed the wires through the grommet for one of the USB cables, and connected it to GND and ACC. Keeps the unit very cool, even in the tropical climate we have here in the Philippines, never see 50'C on the CPU now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is very well done actually. Very neat. Can I use your picture in my next video to show how a fan can be installed neatly?
tuuza said:
I installed about 6 of these aluminium sinks. If the cpu starts to throttle on hotter days, I have the Cooltek silent fan to cool things down.
Lähetetty minun E6853 laitteesta Tapatalkilla
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you please share a pic of the finished install?
dynamite647 said:
Can you please share a pic of the finished install?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didnt take any photos when the unit was open, and its now installed in my car :/
But the way I installed was just glueing them to the stock heatspreadr next to each other, filling the whole surface.
Lähetetty minun E6853 laitteesta Tapatalkilla
dynamite647 said:
This is very well done actually. Very neat. Can I use your picture in my next video to show how a fan can be installed neatly?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure, no problem. I wanted to connect the fan internally in the head unit, that would be a nicer install but unfortunately the power pins are on the bottom row of the plug, which means the pins aren't easily accessible without taking everything apart. I wasn't able to find where the ACC pin went on the PCB, so plan B was to bring the wires out of the unit and connect them externally. I used a small 2 pin connector on the fan wires, so I would be able to easily disconnect it if ever I need to remove the head unit from the car. All in all this install cost me about 14 dollars, I had to buy the Arctic Alumina thermal adhesive, all the rest was free. Intel stock coolers are great candidates for this, as they are generally never used as anything other than paper weights since they don't offer good enough cooling for the CPU they are shipped with..
---------- Post added at 05:47 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:28 AM ----------
As for specs on the SoC, I believe the CPU is this one:
http://ark.intel.com/products/87461/Intel-Atom-x3-C3230RK-Processor-1M-Cache-up-to-1_10-GHz
Which has a thermal limit of 85'C, which it got very close to out of the box with the inferior cooling solution provided by Joying.....
I did some initial stress testing before I installed it in my car. It was quickly being throttled back to 900MHz and CPU temps were near 80C ( in a 19C environment ). I happened to have an extra CPU heat sink laying around so I decided to put one on the main chip cover with thermal epoxy. I also added a small fan that runs at 5v in the top of the case and an old USB charger to reduce from 12v to 5v. I am powering it from the 'AMP' output so I can turn it on and off from the 'Car Settings' panel ( I don't have an amp installed ). It runs in the mid-50C / full 1.04 GHz in the same 19C environment at 100% CPU load.
Hello
I live in India and the weather here in summers is pretty hot. Upto 45degrees in summers. So a fan/heatsink is a good idea.
Could the guys who have already done it chip in with the method of securing the heatsink to the SOM board?
A desktop cpu cooler is pretty big ... Im sure just the thermal paste would not be such a good idea inside the jerky environment of a car.
tally3tally said:
Hello
I live in India and the weather here in summers is pretty hot. Upto 45degrees in summers. So a fan/heatsink is a good idea.
Could the guys who have already done it chip in with the method of securing the heatsink to the SOM board?
A desktop cpu cooler is pretty big ... Im sure just the thermal paste would not be such a good idea inside the jerky environment of a car.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used: http://arcticsilver.com/arctic_alumina_thermal_adhesive.htm
It was their warning that sold me.
Precaution:
Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive is a permanent adhesive. Components you attach with Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive will stay attached forever.
I used the same stuff, Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive. A stock Intel cooler or something similar doesn't have much weight to it, so I'm confident this adhesive will hold it well enough. It sticks well to the heatspreader which is soldered in place on the board. I wouldn't use a big and heavy heat sink with it, but no need for that in this application.
Alternatively, you could get a number of smaller heatsinks and glue those in place piece by piece if you're worried about it, one person in this thread did just that. You will need a fan, either one mounted to the chassis bringing in air from the outside of the unit, or just an internal one to circulate the air through the heatsink. I tried to have just the Intel cooler without a fan first, but the CPU still got pretty hot with that. Mounted the fan on it, and it stays around 50'C now, a little above on the hottest days here in the Philippines. What I liked about using an Intel cooler was that it makes it very easy to mount the fan, and I didn't have to modify anything apart from glueing the heatsink on the heatspreader.
Hilari0 said:
I used the same stuff, Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive. A stock Intel cooler or something similar doesn't have much weight to it, so I'm confident this adhesive will hold it well enough. It sticks well to the heatspreader which is soldered in place on the board. I wouldn't use a big and heavy heat sink with it, but no need for that in this application.
Alternatively, you could get a number of smaller heatsinks and glue those in place piece by piece if you're worried about it, one person in this thread did just that. You will need a fan, either one mounted to the chassis bringing in air from the outside of the unit, or just an internal one to circulate the air through the heatsink. I tried to have just the Intel cooler without a fan first, but the CPU still got pretty hot with that. Mounted the fan on it, and it stays around 50'C now, a little above on the hottest days here in the Philippines. What I liked about using an Intel cooler was that it makes it very easy to mount the fan, and I didn't have to modify anything apart from glueing the heatsink on the heatspreader.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where did you glue the heatsink onto the heat spreader? Is the square dimple in the heatspreader where the CPU is located? Would shims be appropriate to bring it up to a heatsink?
Tubra said:
Where did you glue the heatsink onto the heat spreader? Is the square dimple in the heatspreader where the CPU is located? Would shims be appropriate to bring it up to a heatsink?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
With a cooler block that size, I think it doesn't matter where you put it on the original heatspreader. But if you want to be 100% sure, you can put a thermal pad to the small dimple and some glue around it.
Lähetetty minun E6853 laitteesta Tapatalkilla
If you look at my picture, the screen facing you, then the square dimple is just to the right of the middle core of that intel cooler. I don't think there would be much difference if you glue it to the right or left flat area, of the heat spreader, I just wanted to somewhat center the cooler in the unit. On hot sunny days when the interior of the car is over 50'C, the CPU stays below 70'C, gradually getting cooler as the AC cools the interior down.
Hilari0 said:
If you look at my picture, the screen facing you, then the square dimple is just to the right of the middle core of that intel cooler. I don't think there would be much difference if you glue it to the right or left flat area, of the heat spreader, I just wanted to somewhat center the cooler in the unit. On hot sunny days when the interior of the car is over 50'C, the CPU stays below 70'C, gradually getting cooler as the AC cools the interior down.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used a stock intel CPU cooler and put it in different places and found to the left of the dimple was best. I applied a super thin layer of thermal paste and zip tied it down and my temps don't go above 40C under full stress. Thermal paste drops the temps 5-8C. I throttled up the kernel using Kernel Auduitor and used the OnDemand governer. I don't let it fall below 800MHz and the entire unit just seemed to "come alive" and is very smooth and fast. I was also thinking of routing a small tube into the unit from a tap-in from the plastic air conditioning tubing that is literally on top of the unit. I would make the top of the tube into a velocity stack style outward bend. Should be an interesting experiment and since it's reversible no harm. I live in a very hot area and my phone will throttle down all the time in summer if I don't have an A/C vent pointed right at it.
Hello and Welcome to this Guide!!!
As anyone know so far, the LG G3 is anything but reliable, mostly because it's constant tendency of overheating.
==================================================
The Main Reason:
-Poor Manufacturing (Remember the LG Bootloop Fiasco with the G4/V10/V20/Nexus 5X??)
-The Huge Square Gap between the SoC and the Frame (Who the h*** designed this phone anyway?)
==================================================
The Consecuences:
-Screen Dying or Flickering
-Rebooting,
-+60° Overheating
-Wi-Fi Loss (Not turning on or MAC displaying zeros)
-SIM Loss (IMEI displaying zeros or not displaying at all, or SIM not recognized)
-G4/G5/V20/Nexus 5-Style Bootloop
-Infrared Remote not flashing
-Etc.
==================================================
So I made a simple (or more reliable) solution: Aluminum Foil Heatsink
Since this is a Hardware Issue, I research over the time about homemade "solutions" like:
-"Card on SoC" and
-"Paper Below Rear Camera"
-(And my favorite)"Put a Thermal Pad between the SoC/RAM and the Frame"
Useless and Ridiculous Solutions if you ask me...
Reason 1: To dissipate heat you need and energy conductor, not an insulator!!!!
Reason 2: Thermal Pads are garbage, They insulate more than it can conduct heat.
==================================================
Now, before anyone has any complaints regarding using a little of Alluminum Foil inside the phone, let me clarify some comments about it:
-The phone frame is metal too (Surprising Right?? :silly
-The antennas are on the opposite side of the SoC, and on the bottom of the phone, so this WON'T interfere with network signal.
-Alluminum (as well as the other metals on the Frame and PCB) can ground, but since we are using the Stock EMI Shield, this fix cannot touch anything inside the EMI Shield. So there is NO RISK in doing this.
==================================================
We going to need:
Thermal Grease (I recommend Arctic MX-2 for this fix and to do Computer Maintenance)
Allumium Foil (You sould have a roll on the kitchen right??? Basic stuff to have at home right????...)
Screwdriver (Seriously, Do I need to explain myself???)
LG Electronics G3 D85x (Obviously) [My device is an T-Mobile variant: D851]
First, The Main Problem (At lease in my case); The Screen Dying:
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YouTube or IFixIt has the dissassembly tutorial, to avoid wasting time part by part, i just put the back plate off
Here's what we got:
Here's what we need:
You have to bend it until you have a litte square that can fits the SoC space but can have a little height
All right; Like the third photo: You have to put thermal grease on both SoC and Display Chassis, and put the square on the chassis or the SoC (better on chassis when assembling)...
View attachment 4053916
Carefully you reassembly the Motherboard starting with the upper zone, reconnect and DONE!!!!!
Results:
Before (With Thermal Grease):
After:
Information:
(Remember, This may o may not fix the problem at all; It can be temporal or not, depending the dissoldering status of the SoC/RAM)
(May 2023 Update: I replaced this phone for a PH-1, then a Xiaomi Mi 9, and now I have a Samsung Galaxy S20+; the G3 was dying anyways, so glad LG stop making unreliable POS devices)
Nice idea, I will try when I get de Arctic MX-2
Thank for sharing.
I was do this on my Nexus 5x and its make my devices hotter hahaha.
Ps i was had an G3 its screen flickering and bootloops i fixed by reheat the EMMC it work for a week then its come back.
How about GPS signal strength?
Did you try with thermal pad?
Remember Thermal Grease.
Duckscreen said:
Thank for sharing.
I was do this on my Nexus 5x and its make my devices hotter hahaha.
Ps i was had an G3 its screen flickering and bootloops i fixed by reheat the EMMC it work for a week then its come back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You may put thermal grease on the SoC and Chassis to avoid the overheating, because if you use only aluminum it just make pressure, but not transfer at all...
Reheating may do the trick, but only if it can't be temporally fixed using this method. But the eMMC doesn't have problems at all comparing the SoC; mostly because the eMMC has an EMI Shield on its top, and the SoC has the RAM and nothing to dissipate in the latter...
no14me said:
How about GPS signal strength?
Did you try with thermal pad?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
GPS on Maps, Waze and WhatsApp still great, because the GPS antenna is on the opposite side as the SoC (Back Plate).
I was on Baseband v30 on the D851 and I have Bluetooth issues, but when I go back to v20, everything back to normal...
Thermal Pad do not make pressure on the SoC/RAM, and when coming in thermal eficiency, are lower than aluminum and thermal grease, I notice that using CPU-Z and another G3 with and pad... So, when you have flickering, screen dying or another issue related with the SoC; may fail and you have to make more pressure.
Can't believe the need of that thick piece of aluminum foil stacked. Maybe could be better to cut carefully a fin of an old pc heatsink and install it with the thermal paste (the arctic mx-2 is great), it's more complex but the result should be even better. I have a G5 almost 2 month ago and never had such a problem and I wish never have one, but this mod can be really entertaining :good:
Aluminum foil may conduct electricity, so this make it kinda dangerous. And it may mess up signal, or gps, or other stuff. Someone already posted a mod like this before using copper shims. I used thermal pads in my case, which is enough to distribute the heat.
does this solve the yellow shadow on screen?
viktor92 said:
Can't believe the need of that thick piece of aluminum foil stacked. Maybe could be better to cut carefully a fin of an old pc heatsink and install it with the thermal paste (the arctic mx-2 is great), it's more complex but the result should be even better. I have a G5 almost 2 month ago and never had such a problem and I wish never have one, but this mod can be really entertaining :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well my friend, if you notice: I was having Screen Dying..
SoC was dissoldering, so you need pressure to maintain BGA connections stable, and stacked aluminum foil can't move because make pressure to itself, and the thermal grease avoid shifting out of place...
The heatsink fin may not maintain in position on the SoC block, and also is more thinner and it can't make pressure when things got out of hand... (I make those measures on the normal use and extreme use)...
Maybe your suggestion could work on another device, but the G3 can't work at all with that...
Greeting's!!!
ronzky321 said:
Aluminum foil may conduct electricity, so this make it kinda dangerous. And it may mess up signal, or gps, or other stuff. Someone already posted a mod like this before using copper shims. I used thermal pads in my case, which is enough to distribute the heat.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
May conduct, but in this case: Thermal Grease avoid its conductivity at all, and, you have an EMI Shield in the sides; plus, you make pressure on the Aluminum Foil, so it can't shift out of position even with high shock...
Antennas are in the Back Plate and the Bottom; so far, no signal issues (just I have Bluetooth problems when Baseband v30, back to v20 and no issues)...
Copper shims can't make pressure in the SoC when have the Flickering, Display Dying or the Yellow Dot; it just make cooling efficient...
Thermal Pads can or cannot make pressure on the SoC when have issues, but results may vary...
Greeting's!!!
manups4e said:
does this solve the yellow shadow on screen?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, and also another issues related. Like the Dying or the Flickering on the Screen.
OP, in which year was your phone (LG G3) manufactured ? 2014 or 2015 ?
Ghassane said:
OP, in which year was your phone (LG G3) manufactured ? 2014 or 2015 ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
October 2014
Greeting's!!:good:
Hmm i never have this issue on my d855 only when i charge on lineageos i get blue flickering when i watch yt ;p
Tried this a while ago( even made a tiny heatpipe, out of aluminum), it did work, but it still couldn't stop the dreaded demigod errors. Once in a while, I put it back together, and see how far I can get it to boot. Xenon boots into the os, but after 12 seconds, demigod strikes.
The best would be to use copper plate with exact diameter to fit precisely (on ebay they are for few bucks) + if you fear about shifting of the copper plate, you can use some high quality thermal glue (e.g. Arctic Ceramique 2) to glue one side. Of course use some high quality thermal paste, like Arctic Silver 5
To protect surroundings you can use capton tape
reggjoo said:
even made a tiny heatpipe, out of aluminum
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't confuse heatpipe with thermal conduction. Heat pipe works on exchanging of heat threw gas-liquid system (it use high volatile substance).
Also aluminium has pretty bad thermal conduction (compared e.g. with copper), but it has higher thermal capacity...
After the lineage os installation appeared on the screen this problem (It darkening the screen after a few seconds).
with this guide I managed to solve (at least for now it seems so).
I used thermal grease Cooler Master and aluminum foil.
thank you
Good job. Still:
- Put WAY less paste.
- If you don't need pressure, stick with paste only, that way thermal resistance is lower than with foil stacked in
- If you don't need pressure, stick with paste only, that way thermal resistance is lower than with foil stacked in
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i thought foil would give thermal mass. you are achieving same results simply with paste? what is paste doing if it doesn't touch anything?
i've only had one random reboot recently. idk if i try this for fun.