Ok, so I let my brother borrow my Transformer to take with him as he spent the week at my mom's house. I should have known better...
Apparently my nephew dropped it, which caused an ugly dent directly on the corner of the bezel; in addition, one of the edges also developed a sizeable gap between the glass and the bezel that extended halfway across the tablet.
I decided to make a positive into a negative- I tore down the transformer, manipulated the bezel to be bent back into place (as close as I could get it), then polished it all the way around.
All in all, it was pretty simple - After tearing the TF apart, I just soaked the bezel in Greased Lightning for about 10 min to remove the anodization; then, I sanded it smooth using a combination of wet-sandpapers (800 Grit for the real rough spots, and a combination of 1000, 1500, 2000, and 3000 grit wet sanding paper); finally, I buffed it out using a cotton buff wheel on my dremel with Turtle Wax rubbing compound.
Credit goes to:
WhiteSites for the inspiration from his work on the Sensation 4G
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1184568
Below are some pics of the process and the results:
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Finished Transformer Front Screen Side
Transformer Bezel de-anodized HDMI Side
Transformer Bezel being de-anodized
Transformer Bezel being de-anodized 2
Transformer Bezel being de-anodized 3
Transformer Bezel being de-anodized 4
After rinsing with Vinegar to neutralize the acid, I let it sit and soak in a soap bucket for a couple of minutes
Transformer Bezel Hanging for Rinse
Finished Transformer Dock Side
Transformer Corner Beginning Sanding
Transformer Corner Sanding
Transformer Corner Sanding 2
Transformer next to iPad
Finished Transformer Back cover and sides
Finished Transformer pwr and volume
Finished Transformer top blank side
Finished Transformer HDMI Side
Finished Transformer Corner
Finished Transformer Corner Edge
Finished Transformer Corner Direct View
looks purty. you don't have a matching dock?
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk
I can't imagine how much work would have to go into making the dock match the bezel like that. Personally I would be too afraid of breaking the keys on the keyboard during the removal process.
looks damn good. I was debating on doing a flat/matte/satin black thing with the bezel not too long ago.
just brought it back
finalhit said:
looks purty. you don't have a matching dock?
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nah, I have the dock but have not journeyed that far yet. Who knows I may end up Modding it to match.
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk
I did end up Modding the dock to match the mirrored look
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk
so uh... when are you going to polish my bezel?
that sounds dirty
dbiggss said:
I did end up Modding the dock to match the mirrored look
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Got pics? I'd love to see that, though I'd be too terribly frightened to attempt it on my own TF.
jordanjay29 said:
Got pics? I'd love to see that, though I'd be too terribly frightened to attempt it on my own TF.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+ 1 on that!
Here it go snapped a couple of quick pics for ya.
Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk
That is beyond awesome. I've never really liked the color of the transformer, it's just so boring and uninspiring. This may be what causes me to void my warranty (The guys at my local Asus shop don't care that I rooted my transformer. When I returned it for a defect I even booted it up with the custom boot screen and told them I put an overseas version of the rom on it). I am definitely going to do this.
A couple of requests/questions:
1) Can we get some more higher quality or close-up pictures of the final product? I really want a better look at the back of it to see the contrast between the bezel and the back plate. Also of hinge, and well everything. The more pictures the better. I'm especially interested in pictures showing the contrast between the bezel/dock and the other parts of the transformer.
2) Also looks like you didn't do the hinge, right? Haven't taken mine apart yet, it's on my to do list, so I guessing that part may not be possible to do or really difficult.
3) What is greased lightning? I'm in China now, so I can't buy American brand names anymore. I know heavy duty cleaning product. But is it like for household or industrial use? I think I saw it once in autoparts store. I'm guessing it's like that purple power stuff I used to use to clean my motor and rims on my car. Had to wear thick gloves to keep it from messing up my hands.
4) Is sanding it necessary? Mine is undamaged and I'd like to keep it that way. I'm guessing the bezel is pretty thin and during sanding could easily be damaged. It looks like you just sanded out the damage that had occurred when it was dropped.
5) How did the key removal process go?
Once, again thank you. This is a totally awesome idea. I've got me some new Chinese words to learn so I can go buy the materials to make this happen.
I am glad that's you are interested! I will post more info tommorow and answer the questions that you have.
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk
typci said:
That is beyond awesome. I've never really liked the color of the transformer, it's just so boring and uninspiring. This may be what causes me to void my warranty (The guys at my local Asus shop don't care that I rooted my transformer. When I returned it for a defect I even booted it up with the custom boot screen and told them I put an overseas version of the rom on it). I am definitely going to do this.
A couple of requests/questions:
1) Can we get some more higher quality or close-up pictures of the final product? I really want a better look at the back of it to see the contrast between the bezel and the back plate. Also of hinge, and well everything. The more pictures the better. I'm especially interested in pictures showing the contrast between the bezel/dock and the other parts of the transformer.
2) Also looks like you didn't do the hinge, right? Haven't taken mine apart yet, it's on my to do list, so I guessing that part may not be possible to do or really difficult.
3) What is greased lightning? I'm in China now, so I can't buy American brand names anymore. I know heavy duty cleaning product. But is it like for household or industrial use? I think I saw it once in autoparts store. I'm guessing it's like that purple power stuff I used to use to clean my motor and rims on my car. Had to wear thick gloves to keep it from messing up my hands.
4) Is sanding it necessary? Mine is undamaged and I'd like to keep it that way. I'm guessing the bezel is pretty thin and during sanding could easily be damaged. It looks like you just sanded out the damage that had occurred when it was dropped.
5) How did the key removal process go?
Once, again thank you. This is a totally awesome idea. I've got me some new Chinese words to learn so I can go buy the materials to make this happen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry about the delay, I have been crazy busy lately. I havent had the opportunity to take any new pics yet.
To answer your questions in the meantime:
2). Your correct, I did not do the hinge. However, I am sure that it would be possible to polish that part also -- and I dont think that it would be very difficult at all. The only reason that I didn't go that far is because of time... My plan was/is to sell the transformer+dock together to offset some costs towards getting the Prime... It just got to the point that It seemed like any more time that I would sink into it wouldn't benefit me because I am going to sell it and I figured that it wouldnt get me any more $$$.
3). Your right on the track! Greased Lightning is very similar to Purple Power. As a matter of fact, I ran out of Greased lightning and I actually had to use Purple Power for the Dock.
The Greased Lightning worked better, but I am not sure if the Anodization was just more stubborn on the dock.
The MAIN INGREDIENT that needs to be in the cleaner is "SODIUM HYDROXIDE", which removes the anodization. It is commonly found in oven cleaners, such as "EZ OFF". I did use gloves and took the pictures from my phone during the process which is the reason I don't have more of them-- it became a pain, going back and forth cleaning my hands, taking off gloves, taking pics, etc...
When the anodization was removed I also rinsed the pieces with vinegar and lemon juice briefly to neutralize the acid before rinsing in water w/soap.
4). The sanding is necessary if you are looking for the mirror finish - it really depends on how far you want to go with it. I sanded the entire thing. The keyboard ended up being a real ***** because (and again, im not sure if it is because I used Purple Power instead of Greased Lightning for that part), the anodization did not come off 100% on the dock part with just the cleaner.
5). Although it was a bit tricky, the key removal process wasn't too bad, but it of course requires patience and its important to be careful. The keyboard is glued to the palmrest (top) portion of the dock and the board and everything else is screwed to the base of the dock.
After removing the screws (2 only under the back feet) under the feet I used a guitar pick to carefully unlatch/separate the dock - starting from the back.
After the dock was opened, the keyboard was attached to the board by a ribbon cable that looks the same as you would expect on a standard laptop keyboard. I attempted to raise the lock lever to release the keyboard ribbon connector, but it seemed like it was glued or stationary, so I decided to leave it alone to avoid breaking anything. ---As I was separating the keyboard from the palmrest, the ribbon cable slipped out, but I was able to finesse it back in without messing with the lock/latch and it works fine.
At this point, I went back to using the guitar pick to gently finesse the keyboard away from the palmrest portion that was to be polished. The two are attached with a fairly strong adhesive and just require patience. I used a heatgun during the process, but it didn't seem to really help at all anyways.
---From their on, I polished it, used superglue to reattach the palmrest to the keyboard, reassembled everything and I was good to go!
Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk
Really slick job! I like it a lot.
Thanks. It's freezing cold here and raining everyday for the next week, so not great weather to ride my motorcycle in to say the least. When the weather improves a bit, I'll begin my journey to find the materials I need. Thanks.
Also, you said "sodium hydroxide" (NaOH) was the key ingredient? That's lye, the main ingredient in drain cleaners, and an insanely strong base. Which means a drain cleaner may also be usable. I know where to get some drain cleaner, that I think is mostly NaOH with some thickeners mixed in. Also it's safe to use on metal so I won't have to worry about it damaging the bezel. I'm a chemist by trade so I think I maybe able to find a substitute for the the greased lightning. Also with what you said about the purple power not being strong enough, I can control the strength of the solution if I start with a concentrated NaOH solution. That'll be a lot easier to find than an industrial degreaser. Finding things in China can be a real pain sometime.
Try looking up the MSDS on Greased Lightning, I believe it gives the concentration of NaOH used.
What grit sandpaper would you stop at if you were going for a brushed metal look?
2000 wet or dry should work great for polishing. Stopping at 800 would give a rougher surface. If you want a true "brushed" look, try getting up to 2000 grit and neatly wipe the parts with a Scotch Brite pad. As far as de-anodizing I have used Easy off oven cleaner (the lethal yellow can) to remove it in the past. It works great, just let the parts sit in the warm sun for about 30 minutes before spraying the Easy Off on them.
Also, when your done polishing the parts, you can clear coat them to keep the shine indefinitely.
sent from my ASUS Transformer running Prime 2.1.1 using Tapatalk
JoshX said:
Try looking up the MSDS on Greased Lightning, I believe it gives the concentration of NaOH used.
What grit sandpaper would you stop at if you were going for a brushed metal look?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
2000 would be good, but I am fanatical about the 3M 3000 grit sheets. they are like $6 at autozone or an automotive supply store and are designed with a sponge like back layer, so its not just regular paper.
Where do i call to get this help
Very good! doesnt seems like u even dropped it (ur son/brother)
dbiggss said:
2000 would be good, but I am fanatical about the 3M 3000 grit sheets. they are like $6 at autozone or an automotive supply store and are designed with a sponge like back layer, so its not just regular paper.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome! I'll try the 3000. Do you have any suggestions on a brand of clear coat to use?
Related
it fits perfectly and feels good
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link? price?
kmetek said:
link? price?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got mine in Wisconsin at Staples store for $40. Or you could order form staples.com
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I have the case. Not super crazy about it, but better than the tablet being it's naked slippery self. Tight fit getting it on or off, but still slips in the case just a tiny bit in use. The slipping causes things like the front facing web cam will not be aligned it its port.
The actual opening to get the tablet inside is at the bottom of the case when the cover is open in "stand mode" so that can allow the above mentioned slipping also.
The stand function is passable, but I think the angle it creates is a bit too shallow and causes the screen to catch glare from overhead lights. I would like if it stood the tablet a little more upright to escape that glare.
I've seen a very similar case for the iPad series, so we are not alone.
So, not perfect, but better than nothing.
isn't it the same thing like the official ipad 1 case last year
timehunter said:
So, not perfect, but better than nothing.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Agreed. I kinda like mine but would really prefer a slim well fitting leather folio. One nice feature of the case is it doesn't weigh much, so your tablet still feels very light in your hand, which is never the situation with a leather case.
The stand angle is definitely crap though - if I set it on my desk at work it invariably reflects the overhead lights into my eyes. The ability to adjust it even slightly would make that easier.
And agreed - the tablet sure moves around inside the case a lot considering how tight it fits.
the stand position is actually pretty nice for me. i use it at my desk at home (with lamp light, no overhead) so thats probably why i like it. but the only thing i dont like is the cheaply velcro used (seems to undo to easily, i would prefer magnets like a cell phone case) and the slipping out during use. other than that i like it
I've got one of these too, and I noticed that if the slightest bit of anything gets on it, it looks ugly. It was on a table when a bottle of soda got spilled, only a few drops hit it, and you can see exactly where those drops hit it at.
As far as the case goes, it would be a lot better if the flap was magnetic, and if there was something for it to catch on on the back when it's flat. It's obnoxious to have to deal with putting it into the stand shape when you're just holding it to check your e-mail.
netham45 said:
I've got one of these too, and I noticed that if the slightest bit of anything gets on it, it looks ugly. It was on a table when a bottle of soda got spilled, only a few drops hit it, and you can see exactly where those drops hit it at.
As far as the case goes, it would be a lot better if the flap was magnetic, and if there was something for it to catch on on the back when it's flat. It's obnoxious to have to deal with putting it into the stand shape when you're just holding it to check your e-mail.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
At least the case did its job and protected the tablet from your soda damage. Also, the case cleans pretty easily with a damp cloth.
Sent from my A500 using Tapatalk
I have had the Acer case for a couple of weeks. It feels like wetsuit material. but does the job, and it is easy to wipe any dirt off it. I did cut a inverted 'V' so that the microphone was not obstructed.
All the ports are easy to get to but, nevertheless, exposed. So, I wanted a sleeve that I could slip the tablet into when placing it in my briefcase, and I found the attached at a store that sells Japanese goods (the case is actually from China.) See attached photo.
This fits the A500 in the Acer case very nicely, and good enough to take into a meeting.
The cost of the case: $1.50.
ps. The store is Daiso Japan and the item is Plastic Case (B5) 497 990 9845 486. Nothing unique about it and I am sure you can find similar ones around from other stores.
I bought this case and am not too thrilled about it. I already have an Arkon stand so the built-in stand function is kind of useless, and really just makes that side of the cover really flimsy. The case attracts too much "stuff" and degrades the look of the product and it doesnt fit like a glove as you'd think. I also dont like how it doesnt cover up the bottom of the A500 at all, nor the fact that if you dont use the stand fuction, the tablet has a tendency to fall out of the case, since its on "backwards."
that... and the smell... ugh.
Amazon has it on sale today for 29 bucks
http://www.amazon.com/Acer-Iconia-A...14JA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1307123390&sr=8-2
second that on the smell i bought a 10 inch netbook bag today to replace the case
I have the official case and am about to ditch it for a folio style from ebay.
Not only does it look tatty when it is on, it's almost impossible to clean the screen with it on, as all the dust etc collects in the corners, and constant removal and replacement has stretched the opening so I now have the dreaded 'slide' effect.
In addition to this, obviously something abrasive has got between the screen and the case (still waiting for my screen protector to arrive) and put a tiny gouge in the screen on the black bezel near the docking connector - rather knocking on the head the assertion that this is covered in 'Gorilla Glass'.
And lets be honest, the Iconia is a beautiful looking bit of kit, and putting it in the official case makes it look rubbish.
In all, 30 quid wasted!
This case is pretty much garbage. I've had it as long as it's been out and here's the low-down...
When you get it, it reeks. I thought that the shipment of cases was accidentally dropped in a puddle of gasoline. But it turned out that was just from the material the case was made of. It did go away eventually though. It took about 30-40 days but now my case is reek-free.
The second problem was the slip issue. The tab slides down at about 3-4mm, which may not seem like a lot, but it's actually the perfect annoying amount. It causes the front camera to be blocked by the case itself, the speakers to not line up correctly, the bottom part of the front side of the case comes close to blocking you from using the task bar buttons efficiently, and the ambient light sensor is blocked. Some members on here have recommended double sided tape, but don't waste your time. It just slows the slipping down and it doesn't stick to well to the case material. Now I have an entire roll of Scotch double-sided tape that I will never use. However, I have found great success with heavy duty Velcro. I bought a pack with two strips from Staples and used half of one of the strips, cut into 2 and popped them on either side of the Acer logo on the back of the unit. It holds okay with the case material, creates just enough wedge pressure in the back, while allowing you to take the tablet out of the case if you really want to. My front camera and taskbar buttons have not been blocked at all since implementing this Velcro. One user here mentioned that they did some sewing and sewed the unit into the case at the opening and that works well. If my Velcro doesn't work as a more subtle solution long-term, I may go in that direction. I can't help but wonder if the case was made upside-down, would we have the slip problems at all (the opening is at the bottom when you hold it naturally).
The best thing about this case, though (and why I keep bothering to attempt to fix it) is that I love its stand features. The stand on the back is nice, and frankly, better than some of those ugly alternative bulky stands out there. I can stand it up on the table while sitting and eating, or flip it upside down and use the slighter stand to ramp it up just enough while laying down in bed.
Sent from my A500 using XDA Premium App
I bought this case a while back and have not had any problems with it. It's easy to clean with a damp cloth, and protects my tablet. I have not had any issues with my tablet slipping yet. The stand also seems to be stable enough for me. The one thing I did do though was remove the Velcro and glue two tiny rare earth magnets in their place. Now the case snaps shut and stays shut. I wish I could add one more magnet to keep the cover open when holding the tablet.
ReganH22 said:
I bought this case a while back and have not had any problems with it. It's easy to clean with a damp cloth, and protects my tablet. I have not had any issues with my tablet slipping yet. The stand also seems to be stable enough for me. The one thing I did do though was remove the Velcro and glue two tiny rare earth magnets in their place. Now the case snaps shut and stays shut. I wish I could add one more magnet to keep the cover open when holding the tablet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Since implementing the Velcro solution mentioned in my previous post, no interference from slipping! Recommend!
Yeah I might try the Velcro if I start having problems with it slipping.
Getting out of the car, I made an awkward off-balance flailing motion with my arm, and clumsily flung my Galaxy Note down firmly onto a rock in the parking lot. It make a sick little "kich" sound...
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I picked it up, and found that the screen under the glass still was undamaged, and the touch interface performed as perfectly as before. I found replacement glass online for ~$20, and assumed I could replace the glass alone...
Unfortunately, I was informed that the Galaxy series of OLED pannels is laminated to the glass, and I would require the entire screen assembly. This was $225 shipped.
I still had hope I may be able to just replace the glass, but now that I had both part options available, I felt I had strong odds I would end up with a fixed device, and I began to dig in.
Remove the back cover, batter, SIM, and uSD cards.
Using a #0 philips screw driver I removed the 9 screws from under the back cover, and started prying on the two halves. Its turns out, the whole back half of the case is 1 piece, and where I was trying to pry (where you would pry if it was a Galaxy S2) is NOT the place it can split, and you need to pry between the crome lip of the case and the outside of the glass' bezel. I found starting from a bottom side corner worked best, and I could work my thumbnail around popping the little clips as I went. I started the gap in the seam very gently with a pocket knife as a pry tool.
::::: The uUSB port area needs special attention to pry it back so it slips over the protrusion! ::::
In about 5 minutes of careful edging my way around, it was pried free.
There were 3-4 little black screws that are also #0 phillips to free the mobo. It's TINY! Blows my mind to think of all the computing and communication power that is crammed into this tiny little ~10gram PCB.
Remove each of the little ribbon cable connectors by prying up on the edge with your finger nail (there are 5-6 of them I think), and a single coaxial cable connector near the corner where the thin arm intercepts the upper rectangle of PCB. I missed that cable on my first try, and thank God I was being gentle, as I nearly tore it before I saw it was still connected.
Now we can see the guts of the MoBo. Too bad the pictures are such a crappy quality from using a POS Nokia E71 to take them...
So, the job isn't over yet, and the hard part is next... Prying the glass/display panel assembly out of the bezel assembly. It is not as easy as it looks.
I do not think my method was the best approach, but it got the job done. If someone has a better method, it would be great to share it.
I first warmed the glass with a hair dryer, than began looking for a place I could pry, not entirely sure of where or how it comes apart. It turns out, the glass has to lift up out of bezel plastic area, and it's got big thick pads of adhesive strip at the top and bottom edge.
After much tail-chasing in working my way around with the exacto-knife, I realized that I was getting nowhere, as the adhesive would re-adhere the moment I pulled the blade out to work on the next area... So, I decided I would need something to act as a shim to keep the area I had pried away from re-attaching at I moved forward. I found the spare blades in my exacto-knife kit worked perfectly for this.
Eventually it gave way! Woot! When it finally released, the OLED panel delaminated from the glass, and broke into about 8 chunks, and ended my hope of replacing just the glass portion alone. I think if someone were exceptionally careful, good adhesive heating, good careful thin shim material application, they MIGHT be able to replace just the glass portion alone and not break the OLED panel. This would allow breaking the glass to actually only cost $20 if you were some sort of wizard who could de-bond the panel and other things from the glass without breaking them.
So, now that my broken screen/glass is out, I flip it over and compare it with the new one... Umm!! WTF?? The old one has a connector my new one doesn't! Sh*t!!! At this point I'm thinking I might be $1,000usd into a device that isn't going to work.
So, I'm thinking I've got nothing to lose, so I start pealing away at the layers near that connector, hoping for a miracle. Things aren't looking good.
I keep pealing away, and hey! I got down deep enough that it's pealing that thing off with the connector! Tearing away some foam-like adhesive as it goes.
Hooray! I've got some hope now! I stick that thing to the back of the new OLED panel. The glue doesn't stick anymore at all, so it's more like setting it in place and trying to line it up as best as possible. I'm not really thinking it's going to work at this point...
But I put everything back together in the reverse order of taking it apart, and WOOT!!! It all works!!! The digitizer works perfectly even though it's not even adhered to the back, and it's positional accuracy is perfect too!! I don't know how that's even possible, but it works perfect!
No dead pixels or bad spots on the screen, and not even a scratch or knick anywhere on the phone. I'm VERY VERY HAPPY!!!
Any pictures of your finished product?
Good work, sounds like a traumatic experience!
I had something very similar with my s2, dropped on a rock, broke the glass but not the screen. bought glass off ebay but couldn't separate broken glass from screen. I ended up taking it to a samsung service center who charged me £50 to replace the glass using my Ebay part which proved the glass can be replaced with right tools and technique.
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rogconnect said:
Any pictures of your finished product?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1 please 10 char.
Sent from my Galaxy Note
Thanks for sharing.
I was planning on ordering the Full Housing Case Cover Replacement. My plan was to, not only swap the back cover, but also the bezel surrounding the screen. After reading your post, I have decided to pass on that.. hehe.
rogconnect said:
Any pictures of your finished product?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep!
They look awful though because they are taken on this damn Nokia E71 phone that makes me want to throw it on the ground and stomp it everytime I have to use it's awful camera, and awful interface to use the camera, and awful procedure for getting pics off it... lol I sadly had to buy it just to get it's unlocked SIM card so I could run my Note off a super cheap $40 a month unlimited everything plan with no contract.
I changed mine about a week ago and almost cried when i seen that connector on the back of the broken screen. I thought i had cut something when i didnt see it attached by a connector. Then i thought about the stylus connection and bam.
I did this at 3am when i couldnt sleep without guide.
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Subscribed. Congratulations.
My somewhat lost my back button. I have to sometimes press it multiple times. But no biggie as long as button savior is around. I think it was a missing screw.
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About an hour ago, i accidenly smash my Note screen with its cover pouch which i hang with it a key chain.
At that time there was a mosquito in my face and i was try to slamp my face with my hand which hold the cover pouch. Accidenly, my Note was also near my face getting hit by the key chain hard! on the screen. Luckily nothing happen not even scratch. Its is a traumatic hour for me ;'(
Anyway, forget my story and thanks to the OP for nice guidance..
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May i ask what glue u use to bound the screen babk ti the phone? My lower left conor of the screen is loose and flexing an di press the menu button and some light is leaking off the edge of the screen from the menu button led.
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this is going to the bookmark ...
Where did you get the replacement glass and how much did it cost?
Cannot see any pictures
....like a boss....
Congratulations to OP for successful revival
Definitely like a boss!
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Just how fragile is the Note?
I've had the Dell Streak 5 for 15 months and have just this evening suffered my 7th (seventh - not a typo) broken screen. it fell from approximately 12 inches on to a rug, onto its corner and the lcd has leaked.
My upgrade date is Friday so i'm going to suffer half a screen for a week, but i love the size of the streak and the only thing close to it is the Note, however i don't want another phone that is going to break at the slightest knock like the streak.
Any advice would be great!
gregianos said:
Just how fragile is the Note?
I've had the Dell Streak 5 for 15 months and have just this evening suffered my 7th (seventh - not a typo) broken screen. it fell from approximately 12 inches on to a rug, onto its corner and the lcd has leaked.
My upgrade date is Friday so i'm going to suffer half a screen for a week, but i love the size of the streak and the only thing close to it is the Note, however i don't want another phone that is going to break at the slightest knock like the streak.
Any advice would be great!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its pretty tough. Ive had my note about 6 weeks and dropped it about 6 times. Most recently this afternoon it fell about 4 feet to the ground out of my jacket pocket. It fell on concrete and luckily it seems perfectly fine.
I have a cheapo screen protector and a cheap TPU case off amazon.
Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk
Best way to avoid breaks is, dont drop your phone. I literally sleep on my phone 5 out of 7 days. Drop it a couple times a week from waist and barely ever got a scratch. But when my 235 pound body wedge my phone between me and my car door it finally cracked after 3 months of use.
The phone can take a beating but you should protect your phone as best as you can. And if your like me, and walk around with a naked phone, you have to be able to deal with the consequences of damage. Cant blame anyone but yourself. Scratches and cracked screens are not self inflicted, its user error.
gregianos said:
Just how fragile is the Note?
I've had the Dell Streak 5 for 15 months and have just this evening suffered my 7th (seventh - not a typo) broken screen. it fell from approximately 12 inches on to a rug, onto its corner and the lcd has leaked.
My upgrade date is Friday so i'm going to suffer half a screen for a week, but i love the size of the streak and the only thing close to it is the Note, however i don't want another phone that is going to break at the slightest knock like the streak.
Any advice would be great!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just drop mine 1 feet high during cleanup its screen inside me car..damn it drop and hit my gear box car!! Another mistake which can cause me become crazy!! And another luck where my screen and body phone is ok with no scratch at all..lucky me (again).. ;'(
Sent from my GT-N7000 using XDA App
Well I got bored and since I couldn't find any pictures of the insides of the TF300 I took the cover off, it was a lot simpler than I thought it would be. The volume button and power button are attached so you don't have to worry about them falling out of the cover.
There are just a bunch of clips holding the back on and all I did was slip my spudger in between the seam around the screen and it started popping apart.
I did start on the bottom and the opposite side of the volume rocker and then just worked my way around it.
Only took about 5 minutes being careful the first time around. Would only take a minute or two now since I know how easy this thing comes apart.
If you do this be sure to remove your micro SD card first though.
I didn't go any further than just remove the back, really didn't feel like doing a full tear down and didn't want to remove the warranty sticker either.
Putting it back on only takes a minute.
The one thing that did surprise me was the amount of finger print smudges there were on the copper strips and the metallic coating on the underside of the cover, they definitely weren't mine , so much for using gloves.
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Here's the direct links to the full sized images.
http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/7640/005esp.jpg
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/6397/006kt.jpg
nice
i always wonders how it look like o the inside. by any chance are you planing to crawl to the cpu and gpu?
Unless I get really bored I probably won't tear it down any further.
The CPU/GPU look to be under the large copper shield and it's stuck down pretty good. I'd definitely would bend it up really bad trying to get it off as it's very thin, and on the lower edge of it there's a warranty sticker so I wouldn't want to damage it.
Swappable back cover anyone?
Why yes, that would be fantastic
turdbogls said:
Swappable back cover anyone?
Why yes, that would be fantastic
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you can find a white or red one on eBay then yes it is. There are no components on the cover itself except for a heat dispersion pad. That's it.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using XDA Premium HD app
Got excited, was hoping to see more in there, but looks like they covered the good stuff with that thin copper :/
What's that even for? It's so thin, it looks fairly useless.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using XDA Premium HD app
Just a thought... Could the bootloader encryption be on a chip?
obsidianchao said:
Got excited, was hoping to see more in there, but looks like they covered the good stuff with that thin copper :/
What's that even for? It's so thin, it looks fairly useless.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using XDA Premium HD app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The copper foil is probably used as dual purpose, heat spreader and EMI shielding. The piece over the CPU/GPU does have a black plastic backing insulating it from other components. But I couldn't tell if the copper foil was in direct contact with the CPU/GPU or not with the way it was stuck down, and I didn't want to pry up on it as it would bend out of shape very easily.
Didja manage to get any pictures of the internals? For those of us who are a little less adventurous..
DuneBug said:
Didja manage to get any pictures of the internals? For those of us who are a little less adventurous..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are a couple pictures posted in OP, I updated it to include links to the full sized images.
Oh oops, Opera mobile wasn't showing the pics till u added the links..
Very interesting, everything is clean and tight hehe.
Thanks
Yes a back replacement for those who like to mod would be cool!
Nice. If they were ever to sell the red one I would look for the red back. Lol. That's the one I really wanted but couldn't resist.
Sent from my HTC_Amaze_4G using XDA
There was finger marks on it already you say?
I know people are saying about the GPU and CPU but they're on the same chip aren't they?
psjw12 said:
There was finger marks on it already you say?
I know people are saying about the GPU and CPU but they're on the same chip aren't they?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I was actually surprised at how many fingerprints were inside the unit and very visible on the copper foil and metallic coating on the inside of the cover.
I cleaned most of them off of the copper with some alcohol but couldn't get them all. Some of the ones on the inside of the cover were very clear and would be easy to get a clear print off of those. I figured they would probably wear gloves while assembling them as I've never seen this many prints on the inside of a new device, or at least give it a wipe down after assembly, no harm done though.
The CPU/GPU reside on the same chip, here's a good article from Anandtech showing the architecture of the chip.
http://www.anandtech.com/show/5072/nvidias-tegra-3-launched-architecture-revealed/
chili_red said:
Yes, I was actually surprised at how many fingerprints were inside the unit and very visible on the copper foil and metallic coating on the inside of the cover.
I cleaned most of them off of the copper with some alcohol but couldn't get them all. Some of the ones on the inside of the cover were very clear and would be easy to get a clear print off of those. I figured they would probably wear gloves while assembling them as I've never seen this many prints on the inside of a new device, or at least give it a wipe down after assembly, no harm done though.
The CPU/GPU reside on the same chip, here's a good article from Anandtech showing the architecture of the chip.
http://www.anandtech.com/show/5072/nvidias-tegra-3-launched-architecture-revealed/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
look for a port to put a 3g receiver
poor quality control on these items
archondragon said:
hey can you post a youtube video man on how to disassemble it? i am seriously having a touch screen issue, i'm afraid to take it apart unless i see a video on how to do it, but so far i found none. hopefullly maybe you can show.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Issues like that?
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=28416198&postcount=9
LOL
You got some nerve!
I’m very afraid of taking apart my electronics. (Sloppy hands)
You know who assembles for ASUS? Because I’ve seen pictures of FOXXCON workers wearing gloves, or fingertip cover if not whole gloves.
Ripped mine apart today.
Buster99 said:
Issues like that?
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=28416198&postcount=9
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dropped mine three days after I got it - doesn't take a hit very well.. Still powers up and operates but glass/touchscreen is shattered and no touch response, so it's basically a doorstop..
Ripped into it after seeing this post - no video of the process though, sorry.. Getting the back off is indeed easy.. Video connector is right there and easy to get to in order to re-seat if you suspect a bad connection.. It is the metallic micro-connector that actually has wires and is taped down with a clear tape.
Also, touchscreen plastic ribbon connector is also easy to get to in order to re-seat.. It is the wide plastic strip type ribbon (with internal wiring strips) that ends up splitting into two connections with little foam rubber pieces on top of them to keep them from backing out.. When you pull the connections out, as I did today, it's good to know how they work. The two touchscreen headers (connectors) on the pcb are a hinged/clamping type. The back of the connector (away from the ribbon) hinges up and the ribbon is free.
Anyway, removing a shattered touchscreen is a bear - lots and lots of sticky adhesive. Double-sided sticky tape (half inch wide) holding the touchscreen to the flimsy plastic bezel all the way around, and double-sided sticky foam (2mm wide) holding the touchscreen to the TFT display assembly all the way around.
I need confirmation, please, from anyone; is this touchscreen for the TF300 the same one used for the TF201. I would assume it is, but do not want to order one based on an assumption.. I have the whole unit reassembled and working w/o touchscreen. Installing it will be miles easier than taking it out for sure..
I picked up my tablet this morning and noticed there is some scuffing on the back. I tried to rub it off but that didn't do anything. I use my Note for school and I occasionally spin it from landscape to portrait mode. I must say for a $500 tablet I am a little disappointed. I will be emailing Samsung about this. I just wanted to see if anyone else was experiencing this with their Note 10.1? I haven't even had it for a month yet.
Yeah I think spinning anything on any kind of surface would leave scuff marks.
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
Buy a case.
Sent from my GT-N8013 using Tapatalk 2
It doesn't matter whether a device is aluminum or plastic; drag it against a material that's harder than it is and it's going to scratch. If you don't like cases get it a skin. That'll probably hide your existing stuffs too. I never slide my devices against anything when their naked. I'll put it down and pick it as vertically as possible. I also get top dollar resale wise by taking care of them while I'm using them. So it's cool if you don't want to baby your toys but then expect wear and tear.
Its not like I am spinning it like a top. I will just place it on the desk and it to lanscape mode. The desk is not made of glass or metal it just a wooden desk so I don't understand how that would be harder then the case.
Tiny particles (to small to easily see) of grit, dirt, etc, trapped on the surace of the table, could scuff/scratch your note with ease. I learned my lesson many, many, devices ago. BUY A DECENT CASE! You'll make the money back on the re-sale.
No offense to the OP, but anyone who walks around carrying a $500 tablet without a case on it is just begging to have a broken, uninsured tablet.
:cyclops:
mitchellvii said:
No offense to the OP, but anyone who walks around carrying a $500 tablet without a case on it is just begging to have a broken, uninsured tablet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
With scuffs, as demonstrated.
toenail_flicker said:
:cyclops:
With scuffs, as demonstrated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
True dat.
Sent from my GT-N8013 using Tapatalk 2
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Shortly after getting my Note, I went out and bought some inexpensive netbook skins and cut one to fit the back of the note. (Yeah, yeah - I know - kind of colourful.. but I was tired of everything always being solid black )
After just over a month - this is what the backing looks like. See the scuffing. The back takes a lot of stress. I have an Asus slipcase (ironically) that works beautifully for the Note (even has a loop to hold a full digital pen), but since I carry my Note in a Tucano vertical shoulder bag, puttng it in the slipcase then into the shoulder bag gets a bit tedious.
So yeah, I'd recommend either a slip case or putting a skin on the back. The skin also protects the back if you use their universal dock.
Sand is about 7 on the hardness scale. Diamond is 10. Plastic doesn't stand a chance. Buy a case that will absorb the punishment.
I purchased the Samsung Book Cover case which is working very well and adds hardly anything to the Galaxy Note 10.1. Here is quick video of the Book Cover.
http://youtu.be/ijrpRzV7V3U
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ijrpRzV7V3U&feature=youtu.be
Sent from my GT-N8000 using xda premium
Dont peel the plastic on the back when your first bought it and can have somewhat of a protection. I kept mine on and it still has a case.
TonyBigs said:
Sand is about 7 on the hardness scale. Diamond is 10. Plastic doesn't stand a chance. Buy a case that will absorb the punishment.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And even diamond particles themselvs are sometimes part of sand and dust.
I got a small dent on the back of my note after a week.
I was really surprised as I thought it was made of some polycarbonate substance, so it must be metal.
Sent from my GT-N8000 using xda premium
People, this is why they make cases. :silly:
If you insist on sunbathing naked don't complain about the sunburn on your bum.
mitchellvii said:
No offense to the OP, but anyone who walks around carrying a $500 tablet without a case on it is just begging to have a broken, uninsured tablet.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good grief. Listen, i love XDA but what i dislike entirely is when some poor SOB asks a simple question, which is NEVER answered, and everybody jumps on the bandwagon and shoots the guy down. I used the prime and tf700 without a case and didn't have a scratch on the prime (yeah it's aluminum) but seriously, the issue is not that it's plastic or a $500 device. I had the original galaxy tab 7 and yes, no scratches either on the back.
I'm going to predict that the OPs galaxy note is.......(drumroll) GRAY and is .....(drumroll) 16GB. Am i correct? Let me explain.
SO there are two problems here. One problem was discussed earlier in another thread about squeaking. I recently had a gray 16GB. Squeaked horribly on the right side. Left side screen slightly "popped" next to the back arrow button down below. REad the forums and only a few people complained about things in that thread - but it seemed to be with gray. I made a statement about the gray and white seeming different, i can't guarantee but i can almost assure you they are. Why? Because i've had them both.
My new white one is more solid. I can't explain it. More solid all around, it *actually* feels slightly heavier. Doesn't feel like a "toy" so many reviewers gave it (more to that in a minute).
The White S-pen that i have is DEFINITELY lighter than the gray S-pen that i had. Again, we are talking maybe a couple grams. But it's noticeable. No popping in the back of my white, no squeaking on the right under the right speaker and where the spen slot is hollowed. The reason i'm mentioning all of this is because to me, they really are different, the gray and white.
The gray one seems to dent in six areas. Let me draw. (Attachment #1)
Okay. I used my tablet and kept it in my old A500 case by Targus 99% of the time. When it came time to swap it out, it had these exact same "surface" scratches on it. What the deal? Keep in mind my gray tablet HAD THE PLASTIC coating still on the tablet. WHich indicates to me that their might not be a surface layer under the gray tablet and the innards are pushing too hard on the outside of the tablet (#2)
"You are crazy, you have no proof" you say. OK. Let me make another point.
GO over ALL of the reviews for this tablet, the 8013 wifi edition by all the websites. Verge, androidcentral, engadget, android police, mobiletech, etc.
Notice which websites gave the tablet a thumbs up for durability (albeit plastic) which model color they had....white!
Now look to see which websites gave awful reviews about the tablets.....they had GRAY.
Don't believe me? Lisa Grade from mobiletech (who i've been following for years since the treo 300/ppc6600 and i730 reviews came in) even postulated in one of her comments that she suspected the white version held up better than the gray and their may have been some manufacturing differences. I've thought this all along, from what i've read and what i've felt.
Now i can add this picture as well, (#3) although it doesn't prove anything except they changed the graphic. Later date? Better marketing? Makes sense. What does your box show and if it's different, is it GRAY?
Hey, if your white versions have the same areas, we need to definitely post things here.
I got the picture of the scuffs from http://www.androidpolice.com/2012/0...iew-an-embarrassing-lazy-arrogant-money-grab/
Scroll down to the pictures (after glancing at the horrible review)
@sledgie
Lol, dude, you are the only one who called the OP an SOB. We just suggested he get a case - which is excellent advice by the way.
ElCamino said:
I purchased the Samsung Book Cover case which is working very well and adds hardly anything to the Galaxy Note 10.1.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I second this. It's a terrific case because it's so thin and light. It also works with the desktop dock. I leave my Note in it all the time so both the back and display are protected. It's really more like the phone book cover for the SGS3 which is meant to be left on continuously than a traditional tablet case.
sledgie said:
I used the prime and tf700 without a case and didn't have a scratch on the prime (yeah it's aluminum)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Apparently you're the only one.
Every device can be scratched. Whether an individual device is scratched or not is based purely on what it's subjected to. If I carry my devices without a case and they get scratched I don't blame the manufacturer, I blame myself. That's why most of the time, especially outside my house, my devices are always in cases.
As for the six "dents." I'm guessing that they're dimples because on the reverse side of the case there are probable spacers molded to the cover to prevent the back from compressing.
Mines got scuffs and dings on it.
Yes its sad that it is no longer aesthetically perfect.
But it doesnt function any less perfect so i dont let it bother me
@sledgie
Maybe they are different, most likely just in your head.. unless you can weigh both on a scale then .....yeah. remember kimmers' iphone video where everyone said the iphone 4s (thinking it was the 5) was lighter and faster? ..
Apple pees on your leg and tells you that it's raining.
..95% iPhone users believe.
THE STORY:
Since I bought this phone I wanted to do something to the back cover, I just wasn't sure what. Plus I wasn't really set on the idea of doing something to risk damaging a perfectly good (and new at the time) phone. That was until about 2 months ago when I managed to put a small hairline crack in the digitizer. Since the phone was no longer undamaged, yet still 100% functional, I figured why the hell not customize it.
I read awhile ago on XDA about some users discussing what the phone would look like with a polished look but no one was willing to take the plunge. This seemed like a good/fun project now that I didn't care if I screwed it up.
First I used 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper to remove the anodization. While this method was working, it was painstakingly slow to get to bare metal. The interesting thing about 1000 grit though, it doesn't remove the anodizing right away yet takes out a lot of the minor blemishes due to everyday use. This could in turn be used carefully to remove any dings you have without removing the anodizing. In this photo it is hard to see, but the top half near the camera hasn't been sanded, while near the HTC logo it has.
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Since 1000 grit was taking too long, I switched to 400 grit. This seemed to be a decent middle ground. It wasn't too coarse to tear up the aluminum but just enough to take off the anodization a little quicker. You can see I managed to scratch the camera lens cover a bit... don't worry FYI: anodizing can be removed via a chemical bath, but who would be willing to put their whole phone in a vat of liquid....
Now that I was down to bare metal I switched to 3000 grit sandpaper I picked up from O'Reilly's Auto Parts. This smoothed out a lot of the larger scratches from the 400 grit paper and gave a good dull, almost brushed, look to the aluminum.
Now that I had a mostly blemish free surface, I used Turtle Wax Polishing Compound to smooth out any remaining small imperfections. The final step was to use Mothers Aluminum Polish to get a nice mirror finish.
I was pretty satisfied with the result, however, I had to do more...
I recently stumbled across this article on Hack A Day which gave me the inspiration to do the same.
For everyone's information, after polishing the back, this is what your phone will look like after 2 weeks of typical use (for me at least).
Before I started the etching process I had to give the back cover a good re-polishing. Once that was complete I decided on the design I wanted. Typically in most DIY etching, people use some kind of paint or resist to block the areas they don't want etched. Luckily I have an awesome brother-in-law who recently got a hold of an old plotter. So I whipped up a design in Illustrator and he took care of getting me a vinyl cutout to use. Of course I had to go with the two sites I frequent the most as my design... (yes, I know it's a little off center. I got in a hurry ha-ha)
Instead of going with a vinegar and salt solution for my etchant. I decided on a mix of Copper Sulfate, Sodium Bisulfate and table salt. I used a 45% Copper Sulfate, 45% salt, and 10% Sodium Bisulfate mix.
The Copper Sulfate comes as a chunky blue rock/crystal. So I hit it with the mortar and pestle to make dissolve better in water.
After mixing everything in hot water it was time to etch. I used an old 12 volt 1000ma wall wart I had sitting around for my power source. I wired the phone by wrapping it with 1 foot of bare copper wire and tightly wrapping the wire with electrical tape to make sure it would contact the aluminum. I wrapped another wire around a cotton swab tip and connected it to the negative terminal of the wall wart. After making sure the phone was powered off. I connected the positive terminal of the wall wart to the bare wire attached to the phone, making sure it was in contact with the aluminum by testing it with a voltmeter.
Once satisfied with the etch, I cleaned the surface off with a damp paper towel. All that was left was another polish with the Turtle Wax and the Mothers Aluminum Polish. Here is the final result.
A couple of notes:
1. The phone "seems" to get warmer than what it did before (only while watching videos or playing a graphics heavy game). I haven't checked/compared the actual stats, it's just what I have noticed while holding phone.
2. The white plastic that separates the top and bottom will get a little grey from the sanding and polishing. Goof off seems to be a great remedy to make them white again.
3. The scratches on the camera lens protective cover were buffed/polished away while using the Turtle Wax Polishing Compound. Also, the scratches were never over the center portion and did not impact the picture quality while they were there anyway.
4. The speaker phone mic will get compound/polish in it, however a light tap on a table, with the mic facing down, while the compound is still wet removes most of it. Any residual stuff left in the small hole can be removed (CAREFULLY) with the tip of an exacto blade.
5. I have not had any issues with my signal, nor any issues with the mic on the phone since doing this.
I shouldn't have to say this, but anyone who tries this, be careful. You can seriously mess up the phone and I am not responsible if you follow my examples and something goes wrong. Do this at your own risk.
If you would like to do this and have questions or need help, let me know.
-Crack
Looks great mate. Don't know if I could be bothered with all the work myself, but props to you for creating such a unique result.
I wonder if it is posible to polish a black one?
zumyman46 said:
I wonder if it is posible to polish a black one?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My brother-in-law's is black... He wants to try all this out, I may report back if he decides to go through with it..
Chrome One...It actually looks amazing.
kinda looks like the m8. Can you put a clear coat or something to seal everything so that it doesnt scratch so easily?
I remember I saw on a truck show there is a sealant that could be used on chrome wheels to keep them shiny and scratch resistant but forgot what the product was called. Without some type of sealant you will get scratches back in no time flat like the I phones do. This is a great idea of if you want a chrome look and the etching is icing on the cake. You are only limited by your imagination. Could really make your phone yours.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
That's awesome mate it looks great in chrome
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
UltraNoob said:
kinda looks like the m8. Can you put a clear coat or something to seal everything so that it doesnt scratch so easily?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought about this since this phone is mostly an experiment before picking up the new M8. I forgot who made it, but there is a spray paint that gives the "appearance" of an anodized metallic look in different colors. I know that sounds counterintuitive since I removed the stock anodization, again, this is mainly an experiment. I was thinking of doing some kind of a fade between two colors and then a clear coat.
robgee789 said:
That's awesome mate it looks great in chrome
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I almost wanted to keep it just chrome without the etch, and I almost stopped after seeing the dull brushed aluminum look because I liked it so much..
robgee789 said:
That's awesome mate it looks great in chrome
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you talking about plastidip??
Sent from my HTC One using xda app-developers app
Wow, I've never even imagined the One with a "chrome" look like that. It's gorgeous. Unfortunate that it gets scratched up like that, though.
Wow this is epic. How long did the entire process take all together?
tnx FOR SHARING..
I will start polishing very soon. Tnx for great idea and i will post picture result
Good Job!!
First look. After sandpaper i accidentally damage camera lens. But,i try a tip from youtube with toothpaste and now is maybe better than before everything. Just perfect solution for camera lens.. Now i only need to start polishing with some polish paste and we will see resoults soon..
Crackanug said:
My brother-in-law's is black... He wants to try all this out, I may report back if he decides to go through with it..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Will work the same. Anodizing only creates a hardened surface a few microns thick. The sand paper will rub through this quickly leaving the base aluminium colour underneath. The anodize process is what is used to surface harden and create different coloured aluminium surfaces. If your brother in law expects to have a polished black surface afterwards, he won't.
diselhead said:
First look. After sandpaper i accidentally damage camera lens. But,i try a tip from youtube with toothpaste and now is maybe better than before everything. Just perfect solution for camera lens.. Now i only need to start polishing with some polish paste and we will see resoults soon..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks good so far. :good:
CaelanT said:
Will work the same. Anodizing only creates a hardened surface a few microns thick. The sand paper will rub through this quickly leaving the base aluminium colour underneath. The anodize process is what is used to surface harden and create different coloured aluminium surfaces. If your brother in law expects to have a polished black surface afterwards, he won't.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If I recall, those microns sure put up a good fight against the sand paper...
Crackanug said:
If I recall, those microns sure put up a good fight against the sand paper...
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65-70 HRC..................yes...............very hard surface after anodizing. :fingers-crossed:
Sandpaper is also not the best medium for breaking through it either, but definitely the safest to prevent damaging the aluminium below it.
renehd2 said:
Are you talking about plastidip??
Sent from my HTC One using xda app-developers app
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Hot damn this looks gorgeous just plainly polished. The chrome/mirror look is niiiice - might have get scrubbing this afternoon.
I kind of want to sand my One down and hit it with some automotive grade basecoat and a few coats of clear coat. Anyone have any experience? Will it give me the beautiful glossy finish I think it will?