Database Users

Feasibility of a DIY heatsink

I've seen a couple of threads in the past where people have asked about creating heatsinks for improving the cooling efficiency of their devices. Under normal circumstances a heatsink wouldn't be necessary, but recently with Clemsyn and other kernel devs starting to push the physical limits of the Tegra 3, heat dissipation becomes a major concern at 1.8Ghz and higher. I'm starting to wonder if there might be a way to get creative with some copper foil and a few old laptop heatsinks I've got lying around, just to give the chips a bit of relief from all of the mean and terrible things I do to them. But having never taken my Nexus apart, I have no idea what kind of room is available for heat pipes or foil.
Anybody ever tried making a heatsink for a tablet or phone? This isn't meant to be wholly a serious discussion, and I fully expect to get a lot of flack about battery usage and melting plastic. I just think it would be cool to mod the device into being able to maintain these ridiculous clock speeds and not have it burn my hands.

using the clemsyn 2ghz kernel in front of the a/c works out well

There's very little empty space inside the Nexus 7, so there's no chance of adding additional cooling without more major modding.

I've been looking in to exactly this. I find my Tegra 3 gets to 60 C even before overclocking. If you study the teardown photos you can get an idea of how it might work. I turns out the main SoC chip's headspreader is nicely accessible.
The back pops off the Nexus 7 so easily we can easily take a peak.
My first idea would be to put a little thermal paste in each layer on the SoC's heat spreader, this is covered by a copper RF shield/heat spreader on the chip, and another copper layer on the back cover. Just a tiny dab would do, and it will be smooshed out over an area when the cover goes on. Could get a bit messy though.
There's exactly zero room to work with, it's all very tightly packed and a nicely engineered tablet.
But the back cover is so replaceable you could cut in to it.
If I was going to do it myself I would cut through all layers and have a heatsink directly on the tegra's heatspreader with an adhesive thermal pad. Any more than about something like 1-2mm and it would not be flush with the rear cover.
Alternately some perforation in the plastic on the rear around the area may help.
If i can scrounge some replacement parts I might have a crack at doing stuff.

Whoa whoa whoa, 2GHZ?
BRB !!

Mungulz said:
Whoa whoa whoa, 2GHZ?
BRB !!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, for those people who want to fry their Nexus 7s.
I've only OC'd to 1.4 GHz..not so sure I'll go much farther than that.

[Nexus 9 Mod] Cooling/Heatsink Mod

Ok guys,
First off, I'd like to give a little disclaimer, opening your tablet and/or doing mods is dangerous for the tablet and could potentially lead to either breaking something or destroying your tablet. You're forewarned and I'm not responsible for any damage you do to your own device.
The idea:
The Nexus 9 gets quite hot. Especially when holding the tablet directly on the back, the NFC antenna area gets quite warm because the SOC Tegra K1 is right behind it on the motherboard. The idea is to 1. Create better cooling performance and 2. Create a barrier for the heat so the back of the tablet no longer gets that hot.
The Mod:
Step 1:
Remove the back cover of the tablet. It's super easy. Basically if you have a decent fingernail all you need is that. Just gently squeeze your fingernail between the back and the aluminum side and you should then feel and hear a little popping noise. This is the tabs all around the cover popping off. Once you do this, you should be able to remove the back of the cover without damaging anything.
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Step 2:
Get access to the motherboard. You'll notice the top of the tablet has copper foil at the top. This is the "shielding" which we will utilize as the heatsink. Obviously its very little copper and doesn't possess alot of thermal capacity to hold alot of heat. All we're doing here is creating a barrier so that the copper can soak up some of the heat from the Tegra K1 chip.
You don't need to remove the motherboard but here's what we're trying to get at. Behind this tin cover is the chip.
Add foam or a thick (1-2mm) piece of double sided tape that allows for the area to be compressed. This will basically ensure that the tin shield and copper are pressed against the Tegra K1 chip. This basically is the alternate to screwing down the heatsink like we would on a PC or laptop.
Step 5:
Put the back back on the tablet. You'll notice that the foam really sticks out and doesn't allow the cover to fully reattach to the tablet. You'll have to make sure its not TOO thick or the back won't go back on properly. Remember, the NFC antenna prongs are close to this area so you can't make it too thick or else the tablet won't turn on.
You'll notice the back is raised a tad in that area but it also feels very firm because the foam is pressing against the motherboard where the chip is. This will make us sure that the foam is doing the job of pressing the tin and copper shield against the chip.
After that you're done. It's a simple mod and it should drop your tablet anywhere from 2-5C for a little period of time. Obviously the cooling isn't active cooling so after a certain amount of benchmarking or stress on the chip, it'll begin to warm like normal.
Good luck. Let me know what you guys think. I considered replacing the tin shield with copper but decided that'd be a bad idea.

Don't think step 4, adding the foam to the back of the chip is a good idea. All that's going to do is hold in the heat and not allow the chip to cool. The copper sheet is too thin to conduct much heat out from under it it.
Sent from my Nexus 9 using XDA Free mobile app

I think jd is correct .
Until now I newer had problems with heat. Its getting warm,
but no problems with that.
Sent from my Nexus 9 using XDA Free mobile app

OK guys... I think at this point after having the mod about a week that something better is due. I'll likely be picking up some copper tonight and I'll be shaping the copper for a heatsink instead of the emi shield. It should work way better... Hopefully

Philaphlous said:
OK guys... I think at this point after having the mod about a week that something better is due. I'll likely be picking up some copper tonight and I'll be shaping the copper for a heatsink instead of the emi shield. It should work way better... Hopefully
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
keep us posted!
I really want to try this mod.
Little bit worried that i will break something..

Lol that u need to resort to **** like this when proper thermal dissipation should have been added in first place like shield tablet.
Sent from my Nexus S using xda premium

demo23019 said:
Lol that u need to resort to **** like this when proper thermal dissipation should have been added in first place like shield tablet.
Sent from my Nexus S using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is a true statement. The tegra k1 chip an easily get upto the 72c thermal throttling limit with chrome.
What I've done so far is replaced the stock thermal pad with one of my own. It's from frozencpu and I think it's a fuijiboy thermal pad... At least I think it is. It's a few years old. However it works great! I'm now down to keeping the gpu from thermally throttling with benchmarks. The big downside is the chip still eventually heats up. The tin cover just doesn't have enough thermal capacity. So my only next step is to go all out and replace the tin emi shield with a solid copper one that's thicker and can hold more heat depending how I make it.
I'm not quite there yet with the copper sheet since I don't have it yet. But I've read a few articles and it looks like once a heat spreader of that kind is added, we should have no issue with heat... It'll even reduce the temperature of the back of the tablet.
I'll keep everyone posted on the next update.
Just to keep a figure in mind. I'm able to run antutu without any thermal throttling. Overclocked with 2.5ghz and 900mhz gpu. Thanks to the elementalx kernel

very nice work!
ive got a friend who can cut some copper plating.
So when your done and it works i would love some dimensions.

I took down some of the mod guide since it wasn't really a huge benefit. I'll be picking up some copper tomorrow and I'll be getting some glue to go with it. I'm on a big time budget do it might not be thermal glue but it'll still do the job...

Will one of those flat ram sinks fit in there?

toopy said:
Will one of those flat ram sinks fit in there?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No. There is barely enough clearance for anything. At best you can manage maybe a 2mm heatsink tops. I'm using a solid copper sheet that's 0.025 thick.. Which is about 8x thicker than the normal shield they come with... It's literally like a thick piece of aluminum foil...
I should have new pictures and results up tomorrow. I just got the solid sheet of copper today

Philaphlous said:
I took down some of the mod guide since it wasn't really a huge benefit. I'll be picking up some copper tomorrow and I'll be getting some glue to go with it. I'm on a big time budget do it might not be thermal glue but it'll still do the job...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
easy way to make thermal glue is to mix a solution of 1/2 araldite (epoxy) and 1/2 of your choice of thermal paste.
I use generally use Arctic silver 5 as that's what I normally have on hand.

and how is the WiFi radio reception after the copper alterations . there are calculations involved in having antenna design modifications that need to be considered.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

Well the strange thing is the mod works great... However, it doesn't really help throttling... So something else has to be throttling down the chip...
Quite disappointing.
The actual chip will throttle at 72c ... However at 2.5ghz it's maxing around 68c on a stress test...
Another strange thing is when the gpu is overclocked to 950mhz the temps go through the roof on some stress tests. I've seen temps upto 87c when stressing the gpu and that's after the mod. Overclocking just 100mhz creates a huge temp difference for the gpu...

OK a revisit from the past... The mod helped some but it is still lacking. I ended up breaking down and purchasing 2mm thick thermal pads last night. This is vitally important for this mod. I will have a new guide up in a week or 2 once I get the pads and install them. I've realized the thermal transfer is terrible with the stock 0.5-1mm thermal pad... Hopefully this will finally resolve the heat issues.

Philaphlous said:
OK a revisit from the past... The mod helped some but it is still lacking. I ended up breaking down and purchasing 2mm thick thermal pads last night. This is vitally important for this mod. I will have a new guide up in a week or 2 once I get the pads and install them. I've realized the thermal transfer is terrible with the stock 0.5-1mm thermal pad... Hopefully this will finally resolve the heat issues.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
nice make lots of pictures ^^

Here is the heatsink I will be using. It is 0.025" thick copper. It's about 50x thicker than the copper foil previously used.
I should have the thermal pad here by Friday I think. Stay tuned.

I came across this thread and decided I would try this as well.
If I play a good 15-20 minutes of Kingdom Rush, the side would get really hot.
So I ordered a couple 1.2mm bronze heat pads from Amazon and just put them in.
The back cover just barely snapped back on, but it doesn't bulge or anything.
Now to go test it out.

I am very interested in this thread. What is the point of powerful cpus if they just get throttled.

wooo
:d:d:d:d:d:d:d:d:d:d

[GUIDE] Fix Display Flickering, Overheat and Constant Rebooting

Hello and Welcome to this Guide!!!
As anyone know so far, the LG G3 is anything but reliable, mostly because it's constant tendency of overheating.
==================================================
The Main Reason:
-Poor Manufacturing (Remember the LG Bootloop Fiasco with the G4/V10/V20/Nexus 5X??)
-The Huge Square Gap between the SoC and the Frame (Who the h*** designed this phone anyway?)
==================================================
The Consecuences:
-Screen Dying or Flickering
-Rebooting,
-+60° Overheating
-Wi-Fi Loss (Not turning on or MAC displaying zeros)
-SIM Loss (IMEI displaying zeros or not displaying at all, or SIM not recognized)
-G4/G5/V20/Nexus 5-Style Bootloop
-Infrared Remote not flashing
-Etc.
==================================================
So I made a simple (or more reliable) solution: Aluminum Foil Heatsink
Since this is a Hardware Issue, I research over the time about homemade "solutions" like:
-"Card on SoC" and
-"Paper Below Rear Camera"
-(And my favorite)"Put a Thermal Pad between the SoC/RAM and the Frame"
Useless and Ridiculous Solutions if you ask me...
Reason 1: To dissipate heat you need and energy conductor, not an insulator!!!!
Reason 2: Thermal Pads are garbage, They insulate more than it can conduct heat.
==================================================
Now, before anyone has any complaints regarding using a little of Alluminum Foil inside the phone, let me clarify some comments about it:
-The phone frame is metal too (Surprising Right?? :silly
-The antennas are on the opposite side of the SoC, and on the bottom of the phone, so this WON'T interfere with network signal.
-Alluminum (as well as the other metals on the Frame and PCB) can ground, but since we are using the Stock EMI Shield, this fix cannot touch anything inside the EMI Shield. So there is NO RISK in doing this.
==================================================
We going to need:
Thermal Grease (I recommend Arctic MX-2 for this fix and to do Computer Maintenance)
Allumium Foil (You sould have a roll on the kitchen right??? Basic stuff to have at home right????...)
Screwdriver (Seriously, Do I need to explain myself???)
LG Electronics G3 D85x (Obviously) [My device is an T-Mobile variant: D851]
First, The Main Problem (At lease in my case); The Screen Dying:
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YouTube or IFixIt has the dissassembly tutorial, to avoid wasting time part by part, i just put the back plate off
Here's what we got:
Here's what we need:
You have to bend it until you have a litte square that can fits the SoC space but can have a little height
All right; Like the third photo: You have to put thermal grease on both SoC and Display Chassis, and put the square on the chassis or the SoC (better on chassis when assembling)...
View attachment 4053916
Carefully you reassembly the Motherboard starting with the upper zone, reconnect and DONE!!!!!
Results:
Before (With Thermal Grease):
After:
Information:
(Remember, This may o may not fix the problem at all; It can be temporal or not, depending the dissoldering status of the SoC/RAM)
(May 2023 Update: I replaced this phone for a PH-1, then a Xiaomi Mi 9, and now I have a Samsung Galaxy S20+; the G3 was dying anyways, so glad LG stop making unreliable POS devices)

Nice idea, I will try when I get de Arctic MX-2

Thank for sharing.
I was do this on my Nexus 5x and its make my devices hotter hahaha.
Ps i was had an G3 its screen flickering and bootloops i fixed by reheat the EMMC it work for a week then its come back.

How about GPS signal strength?
Did you try with thermal pad?

Remember Thermal Grease.
Duckscreen said:
Thank for sharing.
I was do this on my Nexus 5x and its make my devices hotter hahaha.
Ps i was had an G3 its screen flickering and bootloops i fixed by reheat the EMMC it work for a week then its come back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You may put thermal grease on the SoC and Chassis to avoid the overheating, because if you use only aluminum it just make pressure, but not transfer at all...
Reheating may do the trick, but only if it can't be temporally fixed using this method. But the eMMC doesn't have problems at all comparing the SoC; mostly because the eMMC has an EMI Shield on its top, and the SoC has the RAM and nothing to dissipate in the latter...

no14me said:
How about GPS signal strength?
Did you try with thermal pad?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
GPS on Maps, Waze and WhatsApp still great, because the GPS antenna is on the opposite side as the SoC (Back Plate).
I was on Baseband v30 on the D851 and I have Bluetooth issues, but when I go back to v20, everything back to normal...
Thermal Pad do not make pressure on the SoC/RAM, and when coming in thermal eficiency, are lower than aluminum and thermal grease, I notice that using CPU-Z and another G3 with and pad... So, when you have flickering, screen dying or another issue related with the SoC; may fail and you have to make more pressure.

Can't believe the need of that thick piece of aluminum foil stacked. Maybe could be better to cut carefully a fin of an old pc heatsink and install it with the thermal paste (the arctic mx-2 is great), it's more complex but the result should be even better. I have a G5 almost 2 month ago and never had such a problem and I wish never have one, but this mod can be really entertaining :good:

Aluminum foil may conduct electricity, so this make it kinda dangerous. And it may mess up signal, or gps, or other stuff. Someone already posted a mod like this before using copper shims. I used thermal pads in my case, which is enough to distribute the heat.

does this solve the yellow shadow on screen?

viktor92 said:
Can't believe the need of that thick piece of aluminum foil stacked. Maybe could be better to cut carefully a fin of an old pc heatsink and install it with the thermal paste (the arctic mx-2 is great), it's more complex but the result should be even better. I have a G5 almost 2 month ago and never had such a problem and I wish never have one, but this mod can be really entertaining :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well my friend, if you notice: I was having Screen Dying..
SoC was dissoldering, so you need pressure to maintain BGA connections stable, and stacked aluminum foil can't move because make pressure to itself, and the thermal grease avoid shifting out of place...
The heatsink fin may not maintain in position on the SoC block, and also is more thinner and it can't make pressure when things got out of hand... (I make those measures on the normal use and extreme use)...
Maybe your suggestion could work on another device, but the G3 can't work at all with that...
Greeting's!!!

ronzky321 said:
Aluminum foil may conduct electricity, so this make it kinda dangerous. And it may mess up signal, or gps, or other stuff. Someone already posted a mod like this before using copper shims. I used thermal pads in my case, which is enough to distribute the heat.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
May conduct, but in this case: Thermal Grease avoid its conductivity at all, and, you have an EMI Shield in the sides; plus, you make pressure on the Aluminum Foil, so it can't shift out of position even with high shock...
Antennas are in the Back Plate and the Bottom; so far, no signal issues (just I have Bluetooth problems when Baseband v30, back to v20 and no issues)...
Copper shims can't make pressure in the SoC when have the Flickering, Display Dying or the Yellow Dot; it just make cooling efficient...
Thermal Pads can or cannot make pressure on the SoC when have issues, but results may vary...
Greeting's!!!

manups4e said:
does this solve the yellow shadow on screen?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, and also another issues related. Like the Dying or the Flickering on the Screen.

OP, in which year was your phone (LG G3) manufactured ? 2014 or 2015 ?

Ghassane said:
OP, in which year was your phone (LG G3) manufactured ? 2014 or 2015 ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
October 2014
Greeting's!!:good:

Hmm i never have this issue on my d855 only when i charge on lineageos i get blue flickering when i watch yt ;p

Tried this a while ago( even made a tiny heatpipe, out of aluminum), it did work, but it still couldn't stop the dreaded demigod errors. Once in a while, I put it back together, and see how far I can get it to boot. Xenon boots into the os, but after 12 seconds, demigod strikes.

The best would be to use copper plate with exact diameter to fit precisely (on ebay they are for few bucks) + if you fear about shifting of the copper plate, you can use some high quality thermal glue (e.g. Arctic Ceramique 2) to glue one side. Of course use some high quality thermal paste, like Arctic Silver 5
To protect surroundings you can use capton tape
reggjoo said:
even made a tiny heatpipe, out of aluminum
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't confuse heatpipe with thermal conduction. Heat pipe works on exchanging of heat threw gas-liquid system (it use high volatile substance).
Also aluminium has pretty bad thermal conduction (compared e.g. with copper), but it has higher thermal capacity...

After the lineage os installation appeared on the screen this problem (It darkening the screen after a few seconds).
with this guide I managed to solve (at least for now it seems so).
I used thermal grease Cooler Master and aluminum foil.
thank you

Good job. Still:
- Put WAY less paste.
- If you don't need pressure, stick with paste only, that way thermal resistance is lower than with foil stacked in

- If you don't need pressure, stick with paste only, that way thermal resistance is lower than with foil stacked in
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i thought foil would give thermal mass. you are achieving same results simply with paste? what is paste doing if it doesn't touch anything?
i've only had one random reboot recently. idk if i try this for fun.

Adding a heat sink?

Sorry for the noob question, but I have this new "core board" in the attached picture.
Do I just need to glue a heat sink to the silver part, obviously moving the cord out of the way?
Is it that simple, or are there certain spots to avoid?

I wonder if this drilled plate can be removed just to check its alignment to chip. Having just a fan above this (attached to HU's walls) might turn better solution.

ste2002 said:
I wonder if this drilled plate can be removed just to check its alignment to chip. Having just a fan above this (attached to HU's walls) might turn better solution.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So just remove the screws and see what is under there?

Yes. Some of us report that thermal paste is missing/no contact with plate etc. Such setup as in your photo - I've never seen yet though, but it is good to make sure the contact is properly arranged - then additional heatsink makes sense.

So if something is not touching the top part, a heat sink will do nothing?

I took the heat sink off mine. It did appear to have good contact with all the chips, but before replacing it, I spread the heatsink compound evenly across all the chips.
Then I added extra heatsinks on top with thermal adhesive, and added fan to top cover. See main heatsink thread for details, and read from beginning. Here's my post. https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=75274018&postcount=154

CadillacMike said:
So if something is not touching the top part, a heat sink will do nothing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Even "better": it will block available vent holes. IMHO if there is no proper contact *and* no way it can be restored/arranged, then fan can do the cooling job via vent holes.

pwood999 said:
I took the heat sink off mine. It did appear to have good contact with all the chips, but before replacing it, I spread the heatsink compound evenly across all the chips.
Then I added extra heatsinks on top with thermal adhesive, and added fan to top cover. See main heatsink thread for details, and read from beginning. Here's my post. https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=75274018&postcount=154
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It also acts to suppress RFI and acts as a heat spreader.
For my PX5 Android 6, I replaced the thermal compound on the heat spreader, added a heatsink and fan. Bonded using thermal adhesive, all parts repurposed from old laptop. Includes connectors, supply sourced from unit switched 5v which is powered off on sleep. Simple resistive voltage drop added results in cool temps and barely audible fan.
I have further modified the case top section to add a grill and filter medium.

ste2002 said:
I wonder if this drilled plate can be removed just to check its alignment to chip. Having just a fan above this (attached to HU's walls) might turn better solution.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Agree. Replace thermal compound and a fan either pulling hot air from or blowing cool air onto the SOM heat spreader and sourced externally should keep things cool.

[HW Mod] Improve performance, prevent thermal throttle

Inspired on this hardware mod I followed on my Nexus 4 years ago I decided to experiment with my LG G5 after experiencing unstable performance while gaming, tried tweaking the software with kernels and roms but with no noticeable results longterm.
This mod is fairly easy, there is a 0.6mm gap between our processor-ram chip and the metal frame under the screen, I didn't find a copper plate to use and didn't want to wait to order it online so I made one by stacking copper wires and soldering them together, then gradually trimming it with sand paper, so performance could be even better. Used thermal paste on either side, stick the plate on the chip side first and apply some pressure. Attached pictures of the process and benchmark results. Results can be repeated indefinitely with no variation within the margin of error. Ambient temperature is very hot here in the south of Spain, with no AC used.
Rom used is Lineage 15.1 by x86cpu stock kernel with no tweaks.
View attachment 4558395View attachment 4558396
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Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk

Here are 4 consecutive antutu runs at 32°C ambient temperature, before doing so I was streaming in twitch with it for a while. (phone with mod)
https://i.imgur.com/zPivOMH.png
https://i.imgur.com/sxk1uEK.png
https://i.imgur.com/YTPoPOD.png
https://i.imgur.com/1vvuvuN.png

awesome work.. i see this run very well in past, with snapdragon 810 smartphones based. But i think if us use a metal glued in back part of the lg g5, maybe the overheat down, because lg g5 body is a aluminum material, used like sink of temperature... anyway, this score is very high and stable... better than the lg g6 (SNAPDRAGON 821) and lg v20 (SNAPDRAGON 820). thanks for sharing us, your great work Maybe I try this in my lg g5 h830 ?

sedrake said:
awesome work.. i see this run very well in past, with snapdragon 810 smartphones based. But i think if us use a metal glued in back part of the lg g5, maybe the overheat down, because lg g5 body is a aluminum material, used like sink of temperature... anyway, this score is very high and stable... better than the lg g6 (SNAPDRAGON 821) and lg v20 (SNAPDRAGON 820). thanks for sharing us, your great work Maybe I try this in my lg g5 h830 [emoji106]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! The processor on LG G5 is on the other side of the motherboard, it makes no contact to the back of the phone sadly, it would work even better. The good thing is that the screen frame is also made of metal and generates plenty of dissipation. [emoji108]
Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk

jaggyjags said:
Thanks! The processor on LG G5 is on the other side of the motherboard, it makes no contact to the back of the phone sadly, it would work even better. The good thing is that the screen frame is also made of metal and generates plenty of dissipation. [emoji108]
Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOOK THAT... Not to great score like your internal mod, but awesome external mod... for me ?
The heat pipes is very very hot. So, the lg g5 use your aluminum body like a thermal condition... my score have 2k more with thermal pads and dreamcast heat pipes ?

jaggyjags said:
Inspired on this hardware mod I followed on my Nexus 4 years ago I decided to experiment with my LG G5 after experiencing unstable performance while gaming, tried tweaking the software with kernels and roms but with no noticeable results longterm.
This mod is fairly easy, there is a 0.6mm gap between our processor-ram chip and the metal frame under the screen, I didn't find a copper plate to use and didn't want to wait to order it online so I made one by stacking copper wires and soldering them together, then gradually trimming it with sand paper, so performance could be even better. Used thermal paste on either side, stick the plate on the chip side first and apply some pressure. Attached pictures of the process and benchmark results. Results can be repeated indefinitely with no variation within the margin of error. Ambient temperature is very hot here in the south of Spain, with no AC used.
Rom used is Lineage 15.1 by x86cpu stock kernel with no tweaks.
View attachment 4558395View attachment 4558396View attachment 4558397View attachment 4558398View attachment 4558399View attachment 4558429View attachment 4558430
Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a metal cover over my chips. How did you pull that off and did you have any issue with interferance after that? I assume thats what its for.

corvettezo7sp said:
I have a metal cover over my chips. How did you pull that off and did you have any issue with interferance after that? I assume thats what its for.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What you see it's just a metal shield hold together with some clips, use your finger nail or the tip a knife to gently lift it up, it's reversible. It was probably intended to protect against electromagnetic interference but I'm pretty sure it's a preventive measure with no real benefits of having it on, the other three covers are still used and I believe no radio chips are on the section I removed.

jaggyjags said:
What you see it's just a metal shield hold together with some clips, use your finger nail or the tip a knife to gently lift it up, it's reversible. It was probably intended to protect against electromagnetic interference but I'm pretty sure it's a preventive measure with no real benefits of having it on, the other three covers are still used and I believe no radio chips are on the section I removed.
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Got it! Used a artic thermal pad. When playing games I get a blue spot on the screen where the processor is it gets so hot so I know it working. Max temp is 58 degrees Celsius. Must have put something together incorrectly because my touch screen jitters a bit swiping like not all the digitizer sensors are seeing my figure. I do, thanks for the post. These phones are so cheap though. If I need another ill just buy one for 60$.

corvettezo7sp said:
Got it! Used a artic thermal pad. When playing games I get a blue spot on the screen where the processor is it gets so hot so I know it working. Max temp is 58 degrees Celsius. Must have put something together incorrectly because my touch screen jitters a bit swiping like not all the digitizer sensors are seeing my figure. I do, thanks for the post. These phones are so cheap though. If I need another ill just buy one for 60$.
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Thanks, I used sand paper to make it the right thickness, if the metal plate is too thick you will see a purplish shadow on that area, it's just caused by too much pressure under the screen, try it several times without thermal paste until you see no shadow. The 0.6mm I said was my guess comparing it with some coins and their widths, it may be 0.5mm, don't have the right measurement equipment. Don't worry, the blue spot will go away completely.
It makes sense for the shadow to be worse with heat because metal expands slightly with it. The motherboard should lie nearly flat over the screen frame after you put all the screws.
I'm not sure about the touch screen responsiveness, had no issues on my test even with slightly thick metal plate, could go away without the screen stress under it.
Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk

jaggyjags said:
Thanks, I used sand paper to make it the right thickness, if the metal plate is too thick you will see a purplish shadow on that area, it's just caused by too much pressure under the screen, try it several times without thermal paste until you see no shadow. The 0.6mm I said was my guess comparing it with some coins and their widths, it may be 0.5mm, don't have the right measurement equipment. Don't worry, the blue spot will go away completely.
It makes sense for the shadow to be worse with heat because metal expands slightly with it. The motherboard should lie nearly flat over the screen frame after you put all the screws.
I'm not sure about the touch screen responsiveness, had no issues on my test even with slightly thick metal plate, could go away without the screen stress under it.
Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk
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Its actually perfectly responsive, just not smooth. May be an app I installed so I will try resetting first. Not sure how I would file down a thermal pad. Its like a gritty rubber. Here's the link to what I got: ARCTIC - Thermal Pad 50 x 50 x 1.0 mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UYTTDO6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wvJBBbP1943TM Its super efficient. Maybe I could take it apaart again and press on the voard to flatten it a bit more.

corvettezo7sp said:
Its actually perfectly responsive, just not smooth. May be an app I installed so I will try resetting first. Not sure how I would file down a thermal pad. Its like a gritty rubber. Here's the link to what I got: ARCTIC - Thermal Pad 50 x 50 x 1.0 mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UYTTDO6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wvJBBbP1943TM Its super efficient. Maybe I could take it apaart again and press on the voard to flatten it a bit more.
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Oh, I misunderstood, probably 1mm thermal pad makes too much pressure on the screen when trying to flatten it to half of its thickness.
I found very cheap metal plates on ebay and aliexpress which is always better in terms of thermal conductivity compared to thermal pads. Or maybe thinner pads are also available.
http://m.aliexpress.com/item/32773823737.html?source=images
Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk

jaggyjags said:
Oh, I misunderstood, probably 1mm thermal pad makes too much pressure on the screen when trying to flatten it to half of its thickness.
I found very cheap metal plates on ebay and aliexpress which is always better in terms of thermal conductivity compared to thermal pads. Or maybe thinner pads are also available.
http://m.aliexpress.com/item/32773823737.html?source=images
Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk
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Reset and screen is smooth again. No idea what happened but something changed while it was apart. I will order one of those. I really appreciate it. Whats your max temp with your metal material?? Not sure if 58c is high but before my entire phone would get hot. Now its just the front display. I really appreciate your thread and insight.

corvettezo7sp said:
Its actually perfectly responsive, just not smooth. May be an app I installed so I will try resetting first. Not sure how I would file down a thermal pad. Its like a gritty rubber. Here's the link to what I got: ARCTIC - Thermal Pad 50 x 50 x 1.0 mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UYTTDO6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wvJBBbP1943TM Its super efficient. Maybe I could take it apaart again and press on the voard to flatten it a bit more.
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really interesting...I would choose the pad with 0,5 mm...think this would do the trick...just bought two G5s with an broken display and ordered a display. you get photos if everything is prepared.
perhaps this pad is more efficient:
https://www.amazon.de/Alphacool-Eis...1533978184&sr=1-9&keywords=thermal+pad+1&th=1

MaStErB_1984 said:
really interesting...I would choose the pad with 0,5 mm...think this would do the trick...just bought two G5s with an broken display and ordered a display. you get photos if everything is prepared.
perhaps this pad is more efficient:
https://www.amazon.de/Alphacool-Eis...1533978184&sr=1-9&keywords=thermal+pad+1&th=1
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Definitely. Its 14w/mk. Much better than I got. Although I do beleive our cpus only need 1.5w/nk to be sufficient. Maybe ill get some of that and experiment with all the different materials. Ill post pictures myself if I dissasemble again. Since the reset though everyrhing has been smooth and cool. I'm in that dont touch but play harder mode. PUBG is flawless now and I havent lost a game since the mod. ? perfectly smooth through every game!

corvettezo7sp said:
Definitely. Its 14w/mk. Much better than I got. Although I do beleive our cpus only need 1.5w/nk to be sufficient. Maybe ill get some of that and experiment with all the different materials. Ill post pictures myself if I dissasemble again. Since the reset though everyrhing has been smooth and cool. I'm in that dont touch but play harder mode. PUBG is flawless now and I havent lost a game since the mod. perfectly smooth through every game!
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Very interesting!
You must use thermally conductive pads? It is not enough to use a thermo-conductive paste only, like in pc cpu?

coolmaker said:
Very interesting!
You must use thermally conductive pads? It is not enough to use a thermo-conductive paste only, like in pc cpu?
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Correct. The gap is too wide to use paste only. The thermal paste has a conductivity rating of 6 w/mk but only when its super thin. Like 1 1000ths of an inch thick. The thermal pads have the same heat conductivity even when they are thicker and are allot cleaner for the small space they are.

corvettezo7sp said:
Correct. The gap is too wide to use paste only. The thermal paste has a conductivity rating of 6 w/mk but only when its super thin. Like 1 1000ths of an inch thick. The thermal pads have the same heat conductivity even when they are thicker and are allot cleaner for the small space they are.
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You are amazing, Thank you for the explanation, I did not know that!

coolmaker said:
You are amazing, Thank you for the explanation, I did not know that!
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Here's some more pictures to make it easier or if you have done it already for someone who hasn't done it. I have a G5 that broke. Miss it, it was my first one. Definitely better than my current one. The previous owners water damage finally did it in. Anyway, here's a picture of the main board with screws and cameras removed in the display frame, a picture of the motherboard folded over from the left of the display frame, and a picture of the CPU up close. I have removed all shields so you will need to pull those off if you haven't already. I recommend plastic. Also these pictures will help you see where it lines up on the frame. Also while your in there you should do the GPS fix. Re assembly will either fix it or make it worse if it was previously working. Also the last picture is of the small connector that lines up to the rear of the frame. If you screw this up you may have signal issues. Line up the top of the display first before assembly. Don't slide the display up. Anyway, I'm going to also try thermal pads on the rear of the CPU next to see if the power supply resistors could use cooling as well.

Luckily I found this on time because the temp was around 85 C and it was leaving alot of image retention, after finding out this mod, I took a penny and filed it down thin enough not too thin but not too thick and then I put thermal paste on the CPU and have the penny in the same area as the CPU, it is a very tight fit and the screen is slightly warped upwards, but no problems and it has been much cooler, dropped it by 50 - 60 C. I give you lots of kudos for this :3

Hello everyone, just a follow question up to some of the comments.
Does the 0.5mm thermal pad fit? or is it better to use the copper sheets?
Thank you!