Hello and Welcome to this Guide!!!
As anyone know so far, the LG G3 is anything but reliable, mostly because it's constant tendency of overheating.
==================================================
The Main Reason:
-Poor Manufacturing (Remember the LG Bootloop Fiasco with the G4/V10/V20/Nexus 5X??)
-The Huge Square Gap between the SoC and the Frame (Who the h*** designed this phone anyway?)
==================================================
The Consecuences:
-Screen Dying or Flickering
-Rebooting,
-+60° Overheating
-Wi-Fi Loss (Not turning on or MAC displaying zeros)
-SIM Loss (IMEI displaying zeros or not displaying at all, or SIM not recognized)
-G4/G5/V20/Nexus 5-Style Bootloop
-Infrared Remote not flashing
-Etc.
==================================================
So I made a simple (or more reliable) solution: Aluminum Foil Heatsink
Since this is a Hardware Issue, I research over the time about homemade "solutions" like:
-"Card on SoC" and
-"Paper Below Rear Camera"
-(And my favorite)"Put a Thermal Pad between the SoC/RAM and the Frame"
Useless and Ridiculous Solutions if you ask me...
Reason 1: To dissipate heat you need and energy conductor, not an insulator!!!!
Reason 2: Thermal Pads are garbage, They insulate more than it can conduct heat.
==================================================
Now, before anyone has any complaints regarding using a little of Alluminum Foil inside the phone, let me clarify some comments about it:
-The phone frame is metal too (Surprising Right?? :silly
-The antennas are on the opposite side of the SoC, and on the bottom of the phone, so this WON'T interfere with network signal.
-Alluminum (as well as the other metals on the Frame and PCB) can ground, but since we are using the Stock EMI Shield, this fix cannot touch anything inside the EMI Shield. So there is NO RISK in doing this.
==================================================
We going to need:
Thermal Grease (I recommend Arctic MX-2 for this fix and to do Computer Maintenance)
Allumium Foil (You sould have a roll on the kitchen right??? Basic stuff to have at home right????...)
Screwdriver (Seriously, Do I need to explain myself???)
LG Electronics G3 D85x (Obviously) [My device is an T-Mobile variant: D851]
First, The Main Problem (At lease in my case); The Screen Dying:
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YouTube or IFixIt has the dissassembly tutorial, to avoid wasting time part by part, i just put the back plate off
Here's what we got:
Here's what we need:
You have to bend it until you have a litte square that can fits the SoC space but can have a little height
All right; Like the third photo: You have to put thermal grease on both SoC and Display Chassis, and put the square on the chassis or the SoC (better on chassis when assembling)...
View attachment 4053916
Carefully you reassembly the Motherboard starting with the upper zone, reconnect and DONE!!!!!
Results:
Before (With Thermal Grease):
After:
Information:
(Remember, This may o may not fix the problem at all; It can be temporal or not, depending the dissoldering status of the SoC/RAM)
(May 2023 Update: I replaced this phone for a PH-1, then a Xiaomi Mi 9, and now I have a Samsung Galaxy S20+; the G3 was dying anyways, so glad LG stop making unreliable POS devices)
Nice idea, I will try when I get de Arctic MX-2
Thank for sharing.
I was do this on my Nexus 5x and its make my devices hotter hahaha.
Ps i was had an G3 its screen flickering and bootloops i fixed by reheat the EMMC it work for a week then its come back.
How about GPS signal strength?
Did you try with thermal pad?
Remember Thermal Grease.
Duckscreen said:
Thank for sharing.
I was do this on my Nexus 5x and its make my devices hotter hahaha.
Ps i was had an G3 its screen flickering and bootloops i fixed by reheat the EMMC it work for a week then its come back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You may put thermal grease on the SoC and Chassis to avoid the overheating, because if you use only aluminum it just make pressure, but not transfer at all...
Reheating may do the trick, but only if it can't be temporally fixed using this method. But the eMMC doesn't have problems at all comparing the SoC; mostly because the eMMC has an EMI Shield on its top, and the SoC has the RAM and nothing to dissipate in the latter...
no14me said:
How about GPS signal strength?
Did you try with thermal pad?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
GPS on Maps, Waze and WhatsApp still great, because the GPS antenna is on the opposite side as the SoC (Back Plate).
I was on Baseband v30 on the D851 and I have Bluetooth issues, but when I go back to v20, everything back to normal...
Thermal Pad do not make pressure on the SoC/RAM, and when coming in thermal eficiency, are lower than aluminum and thermal grease, I notice that using CPU-Z and another G3 with and pad... So, when you have flickering, screen dying or another issue related with the SoC; may fail and you have to make more pressure.
Can't believe the need of that thick piece of aluminum foil stacked. Maybe could be better to cut carefully a fin of an old pc heatsink and install it with the thermal paste (the arctic mx-2 is great), it's more complex but the result should be even better. I have a G5 almost 2 month ago and never had such a problem and I wish never have one, but this mod can be really entertaining :good:
Aluminum foil may conduct electricity, so this make it kinda dangerous. And it may mess up signal, or gps, or other stuff. Someone already posted a mod like this before using copper shims. I used thermal pads in my case, which is enough to distribute the heat.
does this solve the yellow shadow on screen?
viktor92 said:
Can't believe the need of that thick piece of aluminum foil stacked. Maybe could be better to cut carefully a fin of an old pc heatsink and install it with the thermal paste (the arctic mx-2 is great), it's more complex but the result should be even better. I have a G5 almost 2 month ago and never had such a problem and I wish never have one, but this mod can be really entertaining :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well my friend, if you notice: I was having Screen Dying..
SoC was dissoldering, so you need pressure to maintain BGA connections stable, and stacked aluminum foil can't move because make pressure to itself, and the thermal grease avoid shifting out of place...
The heatsink fin may not maintain in position on the SoC block, and also is more thinner and it can't make pressure when things got out of hand... (I make those measures on the normal use and extreme use)...
Maybe your suggestion could work on another device, but the G3 can't work at all with that...
Greeting's!!!
ronzky321 said:
Aluminum foil may conduct electricity, so this make it kinda dangerous. And it may mess up signal, or gps, or other stuff. Someone already posted a mod like this before using copper shims. I used thermal pads in my case, which is enough to distribute the heat.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
May conduct, but in this case: Thermal Grease avoid its conductivity at all, and, you have an EMI Shield in the sides; plus, you make pressure on the Aluminum Foil, so it can't shift out of position even with high shock...
Antennas are in the Back Plate and the Bottom; so far, no signal issues (just I have Bluetooth problems when Baseband v30, back to v20 and no issues)...
Copper shims can't make pressure in the SoC when have the Flickering, Display Dying or the Yellow Dot; it just make cooling efficient...
Thermal Pads can or cannot make pressure on the SoC when have issues, but results may vary...
Greeting's!!!
manups4e said:
does this solve the yellow shadow on screen?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, and also another issues related. Like the Dying or the Flickering on the Screen.
OP, in which year was your phone (LG G3) manufactured ? 2014 or 2015 ?
Ghassane said:
OP, in which year was your phone (LG G3) manufactured ? 2014 or 2015 ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
October 2014
Greeting's!!:good:
Hmm i never have this issue on my d855 only when i charge on lineageos i get blue flickering when i watch yt ;p
Tried this a while ago( even made a tiny heatpipe, out of aluminum), it did work, but it still couldn't stop the dreaded demigod errors. Once in a while, I put it back together, and see how far I can get it to boot. Xenon boots into the os, but after 12 seconds, demigod strikes.
The best would be to use copper plate with exact diameter to fit precisely (on ebay they are for few bucks) + if you fear about shifting of the copper plate, you can use some high quality thermal glue (e.g. Arctic Ceramique 2) to glue one side. Of course use some high quality thermal paste, like Arctic Silver 5
To protect surroundings you can use capton tape
reggjoo said:
even made a tiny heatpipe, out of aluminum
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't confuse heatpipe with thermal conduction. Heat pipe works on exchanging of heat threw gas-liquid system (it use high volatile substance).
Also aluminium has pretty bad thermal conduction (compared e.g. with copper), but it has higher thermal capacity...
After the lineage os installation appeared on the screen this problem (It darkening the screen after a few seconds).
with this guide I managed to solve (at least for now it seems so).
I used thermal grease Cooler Master and aluminum foil.
thank you
Good job. Still:
- Put WAY less paste.
- If you don't need pressure, stick with paste only, that way thermal resistance is lower than with foil stacked in
- If you don't need pressure, stick with paste only, that way thermal resistance is lower than with foil stacked in
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i thought foil would give thermal mass. you are achieving same results simply with paste? what is paste doing if it doesn't touch anything?
i've only had one random reboot recently. idk if i try this for fun.
Related
Well I got bored and since I couldn't find any pictures of the insides of the TF300 I took the cover off, it was a lot simpler than I thought it would be. The volume button and power button are attached so you don't have to worry about them falling out of the cover.
There are just a bunch of clips holding the back on and all I did was slip my spudger in between the seam around the screen and it started popping apart.
I did start on the bottom and the opposite side of the volume rocker and then just worked my way around it.
Only took about 5 minutes being careful the first time around. Would only take a minute or two now since I know how easy this thing comes apart.
If you do this be sure to remove your micro SD card first though.
I didn't go any further than just remove the back, really didn't feel like doing a full tear down and didn't want to remove the warranty sticker either.
Putting it back on only takes a minute.
The one thing that did surprise me was the amount of finger print smudges there were on the copper strips and the metallic coating on the underside of the cover, they definitely weren't mine , so much for using gloves.
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Here's the direct links to the full sized images.
http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/7640/005esp.jpg
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/6397/006kt.jpg
nice
i always wonders how it look like o the inside. by any chance are you planing to crawl to the cpu and gpu?
Unless I get really bored I probably won't tear it down any further.
The CPU/GPU look to be under the large copper shield and it's stuck down pretty good. I'd definitely would bend it up really bad trying to get it off as it's very thin, and on the lower edge of it there's a warranty sticker so I wouldn't want to damage it.
Swappable back cover anyone?
Why yes, that would be fantastic
turdbogls said:
Swappable back cover anyone?
Why yes, that would be fantastic
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you can find a white or red one on eBay then yes it is. There are no components on the cover itself except for a heat dispersion pad. That's it.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using XDA Premium HD app
Got excited, was hoping to see more in there, but looks like they covered the good stuff with that thin copper :/
What's that even for? It's so thin, it looks fairly useless.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using XDA Premium HD app
Just a thought... Could the bootloader encryption be on a chip?
obsidianchao said:
Got excited, was hoping to see more in there, but looks like they covered the good stuff with that thin copper :/
What's that even for? It's so thin, it looks fairly useless.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300T using XDA Premium HD app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The copper foil is probably used as dual purpose, heat spreader and EMI shielding. The piece over the CPU/GPU does have a black plastic backing insulating it from other components. But I couldn't tell if the copper foil was in direct contact with the CPU/GPU or not with the way it was stuck down, and I didn't want to pry up on it as it would bend out of shape very easily.
Didja manage to get any pictures of the internals? For those of us who are a little less adventurous..
DuneBug said:
Didja manage to get any pictures of the internals? For those of us who are a little less adventurous..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There are a couple pictures posted in OP, I updated it to include links to the full sized images.
Oh oops, Opera mobile wasn't showing the pics till u added the links..
Very interesting, everything is clean and tight hehe.
Thanks
Yes a back replacement for those who like to mod would be cool!
Nice. If they were ever to sell the red one I would look for the red back. Lol. That's the one I really wanted but couldn't resist.
Sent from my HTC_Amaze_4G using XDA
There was finger marks on it already you say?
I know people are saying about the GPU and CPU but they're on the same chip aren't they?
psjw12 said:
There was finger marks on it already you say?
I know people are saying about the GPU and CPU but they're on the same chip aren't they?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, I was actually surprised at how many fingerprints were inside the unit and very visible on the copper foil and metallic coating on the inside of the cover.
I cleaned most of them off of the copper with some alcohol but couldn't get them all. Some of the ones on the inside of the cover were very clear and would be easy to get a clear print off of those. I figured they would probably wear gloves while assembling them as I've never seen this many prints on the inside of a new device, or at least give it a wipe down after assembly, no harm done though.
The CPU/GPU reside on the same chip, here's a good article from Anandtech showing the architecture of the chip.
http://www.anandtech.com/show/5072/nvidias-tegra-3-launched-architecture-revealed/
chili_red said:
Yes, I was actually surprised at how many fingerprints were inside the unit and very visible on the copper foil and metallic coating on the inside of the cover.
I cleaned most of them off of the copper with some alcohol but couldn't get them all. Some of the ones on the inside of the cover were very clear and would be easy to get a clear print off of those. I figured they would probably wear gloves while assembling them as I've never seen this many prints on the inside of a new device, or at least give it a wipe down after assembly, no harm done though.
The CPU/GPU reside on the same chip, here's a good article from Anandtech showing the architecture of the chip.
http://www.anandtech.com/show/5072/nvidias-tegra-3-launched-architecture-revealed/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
look for a port to put a 3g receiver
poor quality control on these items
archondragon said:
hey can you post a youtube video man on how to disassemble it? i am seriously having a touch screen issue, i'm afraid to take it apart unless i see a video on how to do it, but so far i found none. hopefullly maybe you can show.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Issues like that?
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=28416198&postcount=9
LOL
You got some nerve!
I’m very afraid of taking apart my electronics. (Sloppy hands)
You know who assembles for ASUS? Because I’ve seen pictures of FOXXCON workers wearing gloves, or fingertip cover if not whole gloves.
Ripped mine apart today.
Buster99 said:
Issues like that?
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=28416198&postcount=9
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dropped mine three days after I got it - doesn't take a hit very well.. Still powers up and operates but glass/touchscreen is shattered and no touch response, so it's basically a doorstop..
Ripped into it after seeing this post - no video of the process though, sorry.. Getting the back off is indeed easy.. Video connector is right there and easy to get to in order to re-seat if you suspect a bad connection.. It is the metallic micro-connector that actually has wires and is taped down with a clear tape.
Also, touchscreen plastic ribbon connector is also easy to get to in order to re-seat.. It is the wide plastic strip type ribbon (with internal wiring strips) that ends up splitting into two connections with little foam rubber pieces on top of them to keep them from backing out.. When you pull the connections out, as I did today, it's good to know how they work. The two touchscreen headers (connectors) on the pcb are a hinged/clamping type. The back of the connector (away from the ribbon) hinges up and the ribbon is free.
Anyway, removing a shattered touchscreen is a bear - lots and lots of sticky adhesive. Double-sided sticky tape (half inch wide) holding the touchscreen to the flimsy plastic bezel all the way around, and double-sided sticky foam (2mm wide) holding the touchscreen to the TFT display assembly all the way around.
I need confirmation, please, from anyone; is this touchscreen for the TF300 the same one used for the TF201. I would assume it is, but do not want to order one based on an assumption.. I have the whole unit reassembled and working w/o touchscreen. Installing it will be miles easier than taking it out for sure..
Ok guys,
First off, I'd like to give a little disclaimer, opening your tablet and/or doing mods is dangerous for the tablet and could potentially lead to either breaking something or destroying your tablet. You're forewarned and I'm not responsible for any damage you do to your own device.
The idea:
The Nexus 9 gets quite hot. Especially when holding the tablet directly on the back, the NFC antenna area gets quite warm because the SOC Tegra K1 is right behind it on the motherboard. The idea is to 1. Create better cooling performance and 2. Create a barrier for the heat so the back of the tablet no longer gets that hot.
The Mod:
Step 1:
Remove the back cover of the tablet. It's super easy. Basically if you have a decent fingernail all you need is that. Just gently squeeze your fingernail between the back and the aluminum side and you should then feel and hear a little popping noise. This is the tabs all around the cover popping off. Once you do this, you should be able to remove the back of the cover without damaging anything.
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Step 2:
Get access to the motherboard. You'll notice the top of the tablet has copper foil at the top. This is the "shielding" which we will utilize as the heatsink. Obviously its very little copper and doesn't possess alot of thermal capacity to hold alot of heat. All we're doing here is creating a barrier so that the copper can soak up some of the heat from the Tegra K1 chip.
You don't need to remove the motherboard but here's what we're trying to get at. Behind this tin cover is the chip.
Add foam or a thick (1-2mm) piece of double sided tape that allows for the area to be compressed. This will basically ensure that the tin shield and copper are pressed against the Tegra K1 chip. This basically is the alternate to screwing down the heatsink like we would on a PC or laptop.
Step 5:
Put the back back on the tablet. You'll notice that the foam really sticks out and doesn't allow the cover to fully reattach to the tablet. You'll have to make sure its not TOO thick or the back won't go back on properly. Remember, the NFC antenna prongs are close to this area so you can't make it too thick or else the tablet won't turn on.
You'll notice the back is raised a tad in that area but it also feels very firm because the foam is pressing against the motherboard where the chip is. This will make us sure that the foam is doing the job of pressing the tin and copper shield against the chip.
After that you're done. It's a simple mod and it should drop your tablet anywhere from 2-5C for a little period of time. Obviously the cooling isn't active cooling so after a certain amount of benchmarking or stress on the chip, it'll begin to warm like normal.
Good luck. Let me know what you guys think. I considered replacing the tin shield with copper but decided that'd be a bad idea.
Don't think step 4, adding the foam to the back of the chip is a good idea. All that's going to do is hold in the heat and not allow the chip to cool. The copper sheet is too thin to conduct much heat out from under it it.
Sent from my Nexus 9 using XDA Free mobile app
I think jd is correct .
Until now I newer had problems with heat. Its getting warm,
but no problems with that.
Sent from my Nexus 9 using XDA Free mobile app
OK guys... I think at this point after having the mod about a week that something better is due. I'll likely be picking up some copper tonight and I'll be shaping the copper for a heatsink instead of the emi shield. It should work way better... Hopefully
Philaphlous said:
OK guys... I think at this point after having the mod about a week that something better is due. I'll likely be picking up some copper tonight and I'll be shaping the copper for a heatsink instead of the emi shield. It should work way better... Hopefully
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
keep us posted!
I really want to try this mod.
Little bit worried that i will break something..
Lol that u need to resort to **** like this when proper thermal dissipation should have been added in first place like shield tablet.
Sent from my Nexus S using xda premium
demo23019 said:
Lol that u need to resort to **** like this when proper thermal dissipation should have been added in first place like shield tablet.
Sent from my Nexus S using xda premium
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is a true statement. The tegra k1 chip an easily get upto the 72c thermal throttling limit with chrome.
What I've done so far is replaced the stock thermal pad with one of my own. It's from frozencpu and I think it's a fuijiboy thermal pad... At least I think it is. It's a few years old. However it works great! I'm now down to keeping the gpu from thermally throttling with benchmarks. The big downside is the chip still eventually heats up. The tin cover just doesn't have enough thermal capacity. So my only next step is to go all out and replace the tin emi shield with a solid copper one that's thicker and can hold more heat depending how I make it.
I'm not quite there yet with the copper sheet since I don't have it yet. But I've read a few articles and it looks like once a heat spreader of that kind is added, we should have no issue with heat... It'll even reduce the temperature of the back of the tablet.
I'll keep everyone posted on the next update.
Just to keep a figure in mind. I'm able to run antutu without any thermal throttling. Overclocked with 2.5ghz and 900mhz gpu. Thanks to the elementalx kernel
very nice work!
ive got a friend who can cut some copper plating.
So when your done and it works i would love some dimensions.
I took down some of the mod guide since it wasn't really a huge benefit. I'll be picking up some copper tomorrow and I'll be getting some glue to go with it. I'm on a big time budget do it might not be thermal glue but it'll still do the job...
Will one of those flat ram sinks fit in there?
toopy said:
Will one of those flat ram sinks fit in there?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No. There is barely enough clearance for anything. At best you can manage maybe a 2mm heatsink tops. I'm using a solid copper sheet that's 0.025 thick.. Which is about 8x thicker than the normal shield they come with... It's literally like a thick piece of aluminum foil...
I should have new pictures and results up tomorrow. I just got the solid sheet of copper today
Philaphlous said:
I took down some of the mod guide since it wasn't really a huge benefit. I'll be picking up some copper tomorrow and I'll be getting some glue to go with it. I'm on a big time budget do it might not be thermal glue but it'll still do the job...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
easy way to make thermal glue is to mix a solution of 1/2 araldite (epoxy) and 1/2 of your choice of thermal paste.
I use generally use Arctic silver 5 as that's what I normally have on hand.
and how is the WiFi radio reception after the copper alterations . there are calculations involved in having antenna design modifications that need to be considered.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Well the strange thing is the mod works great... However, it doesn't really help throttling... So something else has to be throttling down the chip...
Quite disappointing.
The actual chip will throttle at 72c ... However at 2.5ghz it's maxing around 68c on a stress test...
Another strange thing is when the gpu is overclocked to 950mhz the temps go through the roof on some stress tests. I've seen temps upto 87c when stressing the gpu and that's after the mod. Overclocking just 100mhz creates a huge temp difference for the gpu...
OK a revisit from the past... The mod helped some but it is still lacking. I ended up breaking down and purchasing 2mm thick thermal pads last night. This is vitally important for this mod. I will have a new guide up in a week or 2 once I get the pads and install them. I've realized the thermal transfer is terrible with the stock 0.5-1mm thermal pad... Hopefully this will finally resolve the heat issues.
Philaphlous said:
OK a revisit from the past... The mod helped some but it is still lacking. I ended up breaking down and purchasing 2mm thick thermal pads last night. This is vitally important for this mod. I will have a new guide up in a week or 2 once I get the pads and install them. I've realized the thermal transfer is terrible with the stock 0.5-1mm thermal pad... Hopefully this will finally resolve the heat issues.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
nice make lots of pictures ^^
Here is the heatsink I will be using. It is 0.025" thick copper. It's about 50x thicker than the copper foil previously used.
I should have the thermal pad here by Friday I think. Stay tuned.
I came across this thread and decided I would try this as well.
If I play a good 15-20 minutes of Kingdom Rush, the side would get really hot.
So I ordered a couple 1.2mm bronze heat pads from Amazon and just put them in.
The back cover just barely snapped back on, but it doesn't bulge or anything.
Now to go test it out.
I am very interested in this thread. What is the point of powerful cpus if they just get throttled.
wooo
:d:d:d:d:d:d:d:d:d:d
Hey guys,
I just wanted to share my phone modification with everyone, in case any one was interested. I bought a N910F gold frame and put it on my T-Mobile Note 4. Here are the pictures of the results. Let me know if anyone is interested in doing this with their phone, and I'll be glad to explain the process (it's super easy). You can do any frame you want (white, black, and gold), although I haven't see a pink one for sale.
Pictures
That looks pretty sharp. How much was the frame?
Face_Plant said:
That looks pretty sharp. How much was the frame?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately, there's only ONE seller of the N910F frames that I could find, and that's a company called fonejoy. Their price was £45 (or $70) which was pretty steep considering the Chinese ones [which fit the Verizon model] are about $50. Also, my original frame is in mint condition (no scratches or anything), so it's resale value is around $40, if I were to sell it. I can also just put the old frame back on when I'm done with the phone and want to sell the phone itself, and the phone would be in mint condition, which increase resale value (over a scratched up frame). That's how I justified the purchase- but honestly, I just really wanted it.
Looks pretty sharp !
How hard was it to replace the frame? The chamfered edges on mine are starting to accumulate a ton of micro scratches so I'd like to replace it eventually
holycow1 said:
Hey guys,
I just wanted to share my phone modification with everyone, in case any one was interested. I bought a N910F gold frame and put it on my T-Mobile Note 4. Here are the pictures of the results. Let me know if anyone is interested in doing this with their phone, and I'll be glad to explain the process (it's super easy). You can do any frame you want (white, black, and gold), although I haven't see a pink one for sale.
Pictures
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've actually removed my frame to remove dust under the camera that affected pictures, now the screen and frame aren't that flush. How did you re-glue it back together? What adhesive did you use?
Sent from the first Samsung Galaxy ever
That can happen. What I did was I used a hair dryer to heat the top corners before removing the rest of the phone from the frame. If the screen is no longer flush, what I'd recommend is taking your phone apart again and using that hair dryer to warm the adhesive between the screen and middle frame. When the adhesive is warm, put the screen down on a soft surface and apply the pressure on the top portion of the boards (don't press too hard, just in case). Then when you're putting the frame back on, use the hair dryer to heat those top corners again and press together. Then put the screws back in.
You could also need more adhesive- I took my other phone apart to try to fix the GPS and the glass wasn't perfectly flush when putting it back together. I took it to the Samsung repair depot in TX and they put it in their oven and took it apart properly but when they reassembled it, it still wasn't flush (they didn't add more adhesive).
If you do need more adhesive, they sell it on eBay (search N910 adhesive) but they sell it in packs of 5 or more... and it's $9... kind of a rip off.
Face_Plant said:
How hard was it to replace the frame? The chamfered edges on mine are starting to accumulate a ton of micro scratches so I'd like to replace it eventually
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Frame is not that hard to remove... My recommendation is to use a little heat (hair dryer) for those top corners. You do need a plastic pry tool (or a guitar pick would work).
The easiest way that I've found is to start at the back and lift up the plastic part then move to the side of the phone and use that pry tool to just work your way up and around the phone. Don't start at the bottom, for some reason its harder to start at. Once you have the top, it will open like a clam shell. Use a little heat when putting it back together- again on the top corners.
holycow1 said:
That can happen. What I did was I used a hair dryer to heat the top corners before removing the rest of the phone from the frame. If the screen is no longer flush, what I'd recommend is taking your phone apart again and using that hair dryer to warm the adhesive between the screen and middle frame. When the adhesive is warm, put the screen down on a soft surface and apply the pressure on the top portion of the boards (don't press too hard, just in case). Then when you're putting the frame back on, use the hair dryer to heat those top corners again and press together. Then put the screws back in.
You could also need more adhesive- I took my other phone apart to try to fix the GPS and the glass wasn't perfectly flush when putting it back together. I took it to the Samsung repair depot in TX and they put it in their oven and took it apart properly but when they reassembled it, it still wasn't flush (they didn't add more adhesive).
If you do need more adhesive, they sell it on eBay (search N910 adhesive) but they sell it in packs of 5 or more... and it's $9... kind of a rip off.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome! I guess if it gets out of control I will try that. It's OK for now. I might try the taking apart again to warm the glue up. Thanks!
Sent from the first Samsung Galaxy ever
LTE Connectivity Bands
Does the change in chassis from the 910t to a chassis of a 910f affect the lte bands accepted? I'm not sure if that is built into the logic board or the configuration of the metal chassis antenna which would be changed.
Kokorone said:
Does the change in chassis from the 910t to a chassis of a 910f affect the lte bands accepted? I'm not sure if that is built into the logic board or the configuration of the metal chassis antenna which would be changed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No change in bands- all antenna terminals are the same.
Does anyone know if this frame would work for the AT&T version of the Note 4?
kodath said:
Does anyone know if this frame would work for the AT&T version of the Note 4?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can't tell you 100% sure, but I believe so. The only frame that is radically different is the Verizon one which fits the Chinese frames found on eBay.
If you take off the frame and take a picture of it, you can compare it to the T-Mobile frame side by side. I can send you a picture of mine.
Thanks for the reply!
I will go open mine when I get home, can you post a picture of your original frame on here? It might help others out as well!
kodath said:
Thanks for the reply!
I will go open mine when I get home, can you post a picture of your original frame on here? It might help others out as well!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Careful when you're opening it. Read my previous posts in the thread regarding heating corners and where to start.
Original T-Mobile frame:
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For reference, here's the Chinese frame (which I believe fits the Verizon model):
Notice the microphone holes at the bottom and the antenna locations are the major differences, and in fact causes the two not to be interchangeable.
Thanks for the reply, I will give it a try, it looks the same as the T-mobile one.
Black and white looks sick... saw someone did it. Cant remember where though.. i think it might have been a video. By zedomax.
holycow1 said:
Unfortunately, there's only ONE seller of the N910F frames that I could find, and that's a company called fonejoy. Their price was £45 (or $70) which was pretty steep considering the Chinese ones [which fit the Verizon model] are about $50. Also, my original frame is in mint condition (no scratches or anything), so it's resale value is around $40, if I were to sell it. I can also just put the old frame back on when I'm done with the phone and want to sell the phone itself, and the phone would be in mint condition, which increase resale value (over a scratched up frame). That's how I justified the purchase- but honestly, I just really wanted it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Any chance you would be willing to sell your original frame? My white note 4 is pretty banged up (Tmobile)
Kokorone said:
Any chance you would be willing to sell your original frame? My white note 4 is pretty banged up (Tmobile)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah 800$ give you the whole thing lmaoo jk
Kokorone said:
Any chance you would be willing to sell your original frame? My white note 4 is pretty banged up (Tmobile)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I really want to keep my frame for resale purposes, but here's an eBay listing for a white frame: http://www.ebay.com/itm/191521919910 ($35 incl. shipping)
It comes from a Sprint Note 4, and there's a misconception out there that the Sprint frame is not compatible with the T-Mobile phone when it really is. The Sprint frame is actually incompatible with the Verizon model.
Good luck!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fh8SrJbQQSs
A quick look at the internals of latest Joying head unit. Opening is easy and you just remove the top cover to gain access to main board. You can also install a head sink/fan but for climate in my area it is not required. Overall the board layout is good, components used are pretty good and all connections seem just find. This new board is much smaller than previous Joying head unit.
Hope this helps!
dynamite647 said:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fh8SrJbQQSs
A quick look at the internals of latest Joying head unit. Opening is easy and you just remove the top cover to gain access to main board. You can also install a head sink/fan but for climate in my area it is not required. Overall the board layout is good, components used are pretty good and all connections seem just find. This new board is much smaller than previous Joying head unit.
Hope this helps!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the internal images. Suggestion for cooling doesnt make sense - unless the thermal requirements of the SOM are known, commentary is just hot air.
If providing commentary around component quality provide objective views.
Out of the box the CPU sits at around 80'C and thermally throttles down to protect itself. I'd say that tells something about the thermal requirements, and that the stock "cooling" solution isn't good enough. Personally, I have decided to mount a stock Intel heatsink on mine using Arctic Alumina thermal epoxy.
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I installed about 6 of these aluminium sinks. If the cpu starts to throttle on hotter days, I have the Cooltek silent fan to cool things down.
Lähetetty minun E6853 laitteesta Tapatalkilla
tuuza said:
I installed about 6 of these aluminium sinks. If the cpu starts to throttle on hotter days, I have the Cooltek silent fan to cool things down.
Lähetetty minun E6853 laitteesta Tapatalkilla
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How did you connect the fan inside the head unit? Also, did you drill intake / exhaust holes in the enclosure?
dan0luc said:
How did you connect the fan inside the head unit? Also, did you drill intake / exhaust holes in the enclosure?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have not yet installed the fan. I need to wait for summer time to see if it is really needed, the fan itself is VERY silent (12db), but its powerfull one for that size.
I think I will wire it up to the ACC wire, so it will start spinning when the headunit starts. The connector wires are visible on the inside of the unit.
Because its so silent, it doesn't bother me even when its not really needed. I have yet to decide if I will use it to exhaust the warm air, or pull cooler air from outside.
The units casing is not too sealed for the exhaust method, but if I would want to pull cool air in, I would drill small holes for the opposite side.
I would drill the hole for the fan itself, ofcourse.
Edit, the pull method is obviously more prefereable, because I could just add an dust filter for the fan, wich sucks air in.
If I would use the exhaust method, the air would be pulled fromm all of the holed in the unit and bring all the dust in.
Here's what I did. The fan is very silent, more than silent enough to be drowned out by other sounds in the car. I fed the wires through the grommet for one of the USB cables, and connected it to GND and ACC. Keeps the unit very cool, even in the tropical climate we have here in the Philippines, never see 50'C on the CPU now.
marchnz said:
Thanks for the internal images. Suggestion for cooling doesnt make sense - unless the thermal requirements of the SOM are known, commentary is just hot air.
If providing commentary around component quality provide objective views.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Fair enough, the component commentary was provided based on experience with similar items in past.
I will be doing further detailed testing of cooling system, this was just a basic overview. It would be about taking the heat generated from inside out more quickly/efficiently. OR vice versa for cold in/ hot out
Tnx
Hilari0 said:
Here's what I did. The fan is very silent, more than silent enough to be drowned out by other sounds in the car. I fed the wires through the grommet for one of the USB cables, and connected it to GND and ACC. Keeps the unit very cool, even in the tropical climate we have here in the Philippines, never see 50'C on the CPU now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is very well done actually. Very neat. Can I use your picture in my next video to show how a fan can be installed neatly?
tuuza said:
I installed about 6 of these aluminium sinks. If the cpu starts to throttle on hotter days, I have the Cooltek silent fan to cool things down.
Lähetetty minun E6853 laitteesta Tapatalkilla
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you please share a pic of the finished install?
dynamite647 said:
Can you please share a pic of the finished install?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didnt take any photos when the unit was open, and its now installed in my car :/
But the way I installed was just glueing them to the stock heatspreadr next to each other, filling the whole surface.
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dynamite647 said:
This is very well done actually. Very neat. Can I use your picture in my next video to show how a fan can be installed neatly?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure, no problem. I wanted to connect the fan internally in the head unit, that would be a nicer install but unfortunately the power pins are on the bottom row of the plug, which means the pins aren't easily accessible without taking everything apart. I wasn't able to find where the ACC pin went on the PCB, so plan B was to bring the wires out of the unit and connect them externally. I used a small 2 pin connector on the fan wires, so I would be able to easily disconnect it if ever I need to remove the head unit from the car. All in all this install cost me about 14 dollars, I had to buy the Arctic Alumina thermal adhesive, all the rest was free. Intel stock coolers are great candidates for this, as they are generally never used as anything other than paper weights since they don't offer good enough cooling for the CPU they are shipped with..
---------- Post added at 05:47 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:28 AM ----------
As for specs on the SoC, I believe the CPU is this one:
http://ark.intel.com/products/87461/Intel-Atom-x3-C3230RK-Processor-1M-Cache-up-to-1_10-GHz
Which has a thermal limit of 85'C, which it got very close to out of the box with the inferior cooling solution provided by Joying.....
I did some initial stress testing before I installed it in my car. It was quickly being throttled back to 900MHz and CPU temps were near 80C ( in a 19C environment ). I happened to have an extra CPU heat sink laying around so I decided to put one on the main chip cover with thermal epoxy. I also added a small fan that runs at 5v in the top of the case and an old USB charger to reduce from 12v to 5v. I am powering it from the 'AMP' output so I can turn it on and off from the 'Car Settings' panel ( I don't have an amp installed ). It runs in the mid-50C / full 1.04 GHz in the same 19C environment at 100% CPU load.
Hello
I live in India and the weather here in summers is pretty hot. Upto 45degrees in summers. So a fan/heatsink is a good idea.
Could the guys who have already done it chip in with the method of securing the heatsink to the SOM board?
A desktop cpu cooler is pretty big ... Im sure just the thermal paste would not be such a good idea inside the jerky environment of a car.
tally3tally said:
Hello
I live in India and the weather here in summers is pretty hot. Upto 45degrees in summers. So a fan/heatsink is a good idea.
Could the guys who have already done it chip in with the method of securing the heatsink to the SOM board?
A desktop cpu cooler is pretty big ... Im sure just the thermal paste would not be such a good idea inside the jerky environment of a car.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used: http://arcticsilver.com/arctic_alumina_thermal_adhesive.htm
It was their warning that sold me.
Precaution:
Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive is a permanent adhesive. Components you attach with Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive will stay attached forever.
I used the same stuff, Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive. A stock Intel cooler or something similar doesn't have much weight to it, so I'm confident this adhesive will hold it well enough. It sticks well to the heatspreader which is soldered in place on the board. I wouldn't use a big and heavy heat sink with it, but no need for that in this application.
Alternatively, you could get a number of smaller heatsinks and glue those in place piece by piece if you're worried about it, one person in this thread did just that. You will need a fan, either one mounted to the chassis bringing in air from the outside of the unit, or just an internal one to circulate the air through the heatsink. I tried to have just the Intel cooler without a fan first, but the CPU still got pretty hot with that. Mounted the fan on it, and it stays around 50'C now, a little above on the hottest days here in the Philippines. What I liked about using an Intel cooler was that it makes it very easy to mount the fan, and I didn't have to modify anything apart from glueing the heatsink on the heatspreader.
Hilari0 said:
I used the same stuff, Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive. A stock Intel cooler or something similar doesn't have much weight to it, so I'm confident this adhesive will hold it well enough. It sticks well to the heatspreader which is soldered in place on the board. I wouldn't use a big and heavy heat sink with it, but no need for that in this application.
Alternatively, you could get a number of smaller heatsinks and glue those in place piece by piece if you're worried about it, one person in this thread did just that. You will need a fan, either one mounted to the chassis bringing in air from the outside of the unit, or just an internal one to circulate the air through the heatsink. I tried to have just the Intel cooler without a fan first, but the CPU still got pretty hot with that. Mounted the fan on it, and it stays around 50'C now, a little above on the hottest days here in the Philippines. What I liked about using an Intel cooler was that it makes it very easy to mount the fan, and I didn't have to modify anything apart from glueing the heatsink on the heatspreader.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where did you glue the heatsink onto the heat spreader? Is the square dimple in the heatspreader where the CPU is located? Would shims be appropriate to bring it up to a heatsink?
Tubra said:
Where did you glue the heatsink onto the heat spreader? Is the square dimple in the heatspreader where the CPU is located? Would shims be appropriate to bring it up to a heatsink?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
With a cooler block that size, I think it doesn't matter where you put it on the original heatspreader. But if you want to be 100% sure, you can put a thermal pad to the small dimple and some glue around it.
Lähetetty minun E6853 laitteesta Tapatalkilla
If you look at my picture, the screen facing you, then the square dimple is just to the right of the middle core of that intel cooler. I don't think there would be much difference if you glue it to the right or left flat area, of the heat spreader, I just wanted to somewhat center the cooler in the unit. On hot sunny days when the interior of the car is over 50'C, the CPU stays below 70'C, gradually getting cooler as the AC cools the interior down.
Hilari0 said:
If you look at my picture, the screen facing you, then the square dimple is just to the right of the middle core of that intel cooler. I don't think there would be much difference if you glue it to the right or left flat area, of the heat spreader, I just wanted to somewhat center the cooler in the unit. On hot sunny days when the interior of the car is over 50'C, the CPU stays below 70'C, gradually getting cooler as the AC cools the interior down.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used a stock intel CPU cooler and put it in different places and found to the left of the dimple was best. I applied a super thin layer of thermal paste and zip tied it down and my temps don't go above 40C under full stress. Thermal paste drops the temps 5-8C. I throttled up the kernel using Kernel Auduitor and used the OnDemand governer. I don't let it fall below 800MHz and the entire unit just seemed to "come alive" and is very smooth and fast. I was also thinking of routing a small tube into the unit from a tap-in from the plastic air conditioning tubing that is literally on top of the unit. I would make the top of the tube into a velocity stack style outward bend. Should be an interesting experiment and since it's reversible no harm. I live in a very hot area and my phone will throttle down all the time in summer if I don't have an A/C vent pointed right at it.
Inspired on this hardware mod I followed on my Nexus 4 years ago I decided to experiment with my LG G5 after experiencing unstable performance while gaming, tried tweaking the software with kernels and roms but with no noticeable results longterm.
This mod is fairly easy, there is a 0.6mm gap between our processor-ram chip and the metal frame under the screen, I didn't find a copper plate to use and didn't want to wait to order it online so I made one by stacking copper wires and soldering them together, then gradually trimming it with sand paper, so performance could be even better. Used thermal paste on either side, stick the plate on the chip side first and apply some pressure. Attached pictures of the process and benchmark results. Results can be repeated indefinitely with no variation within the margin of error. Ambient temperature is very hot here in the south of Spain, with no AC used.
Rom used is Lineage 15.1 by x86cpu stock kernel with no tweaks.
View attachment 4558395View attachment 4558396
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Here are 4 consecutive antutu runs at 32°C ambient temperature, before doing so I was streaming in twitch with it for a while. (phone with mod)
https://i.imgur.com/zPivOMH.png
https://i.imgur.com/sxk1uEK.png
https://i.imgur.com/YTPoPOD.png
https://i.imgur.com/1vvuvuN.png
awesome work.. i see this run very well in past, with snapdragon 810 smartphones based. But i think if us use a metal glued in back part of the lg g5, maybe the overheat down, because lg g5 body is a aluminum material, used like sink of temperature... anyway, this score is very high and stable... better than the lg g6 (SNAPDRAGON 821) and lg v20 (SNAPDRAGON 820). thanks for sharing us, your great work Maybe I try this in my lg g5 h830 ?
sedrake said:
awesome work.. i see this run very well in past, with snapdragon 810 smartphones based. But i think if us use a metal glued in back part of the lg g5, maybe the overheat down, because lg g5 body is a aluminum material, used like sink of temperature... anyway, this score is very high and stable... better than the lg g6 (SNAPDRAGON 821) and lg v20 (SNAPDRAGON 820). thanks for sharing us, your great work Maybe I try this in my lg g5 h830 [emoji106]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! The processor on LG G5 is on the other side of the motherboard, it makes no contact to the back of the phone sadly, it would work even better. The good thing is that the screen frame is also made of metal and generates plenty of dissipation. [emoji108]
Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk
jaggyjags said:
Thanks! The processor on LG G5 is on the other side of the motherboard, it makes no contact to the back of the phone sadly, it would work even better. The good thing is that the screen frame is also made of metal and generates plenty of dissipation. [emoji108]
Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOOK THAT... Not to great score like your internal mod, but awesome external mod... for me ?
The heat pipes is very very hot. So, the lg g5 use your aluminum body like a thermal condition... my score have 2k more with thermal pads and dreamcast heat pipes ?
jaggyjags said:
Inspired on this hardware mod I followed on my Nexus 4 years ago I decided to experiment with my LG G5 after experiencing unstable performance while gaming, tried tweaking the software with kernels and roms but with no noticeable results longterm.
This mod is fairly easy, there is a 0.6mm gap between our processor-ram chip and the metal frame under the screen, I didn't find a copper plate to use and didn't want to wait to order it online so I made one by stacking copper wires and soldering them together, then gradually trimming it with sand paper, so performance could be even better. Used thermal paste on either side, stick the plate on the chip side first and apply some pressure. Attached pictures of the process and benchmark results. Results can be repeated indefinitely with no variation within the margin of error. Ambient temperature is very hot here in the south of Spain, with no AC used.
Rom used is Lineage 15.1 by x86cpu stock kernel with no tweaks.
View attachment 4558395View attachment 4558396View attachment 4558397View attachment 4558398View attachment 4558399View attachment 4558429View attachment 4558430
Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a metal cover over my chips. How did you pull that off and did you have any issue with interferance after that? I assume thats what its for.
corvettezo7sp said:
I have a metal cover over my chips. How did you pull that off and did you have any issue with interferance after that? I assume thats what its for.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What you see it's just a metal shield hold together with some clips, use your finger nail or the tip a knife to gently lift it up, it's reversible. It was probably intended to protect against electromagnetic interference but I'm pretty sure it's a preventive measure with no real benefits of having it on, the other three covers are still used and I believe no radio chips are on the section I removed.
jaggyjags said:
What you see it's just a metal shield hold together with some clips, use your finger nail or the tip a knife to gently lift it up, it's reversible. It was probably intended to protect against electromagnetic interference but I'm pretty sure it's a preventive measure with no real benefits of having it on, the other three covers are still used and I believe no radio chips are on the section I removed.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Got it! Used a artic thermal pad. When playing games I get a blue spot on the screen where the processor is it gets so hot so I know it working. Max temp is 58 degrees Celsius. Must have put something together incorrectly because my touch screen jitters a bit swiping like not all the digitizer sensors are seeing my figure. I do, thanks for the post. These phones are so cheap though. If I need another ill just buy one for 60$.
corvettezo7sp said:
Got it! Used a artic thermal pad. When playing games I get a blue spot on the screen where the processor is it gets so hot so I know it working. Max temp is 58 degrees Celsius. Must have put something together incorrectly because my touch screen jitters a bit swiping like not all the digitizer sensors are seeing my figure. I do, thanks for the post. These phones are so cheap though. If I need another ill just buy one for 60$.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks, I used sand paper to make it the right thickness, if the metal plate is too thick you will see a purplish shadow on that area, it's just caused by too much pressure under the screen, try it several times without thermal paste until you see no shadow. The 0.6mm I said was my guess comparing it with some coins and their widths, it may be 0.5mm, don't have the right measurement equipment. Don't worry, the blue spot will go away completely.
It makes sense for the shadow to be worse with heat because metal expands slightly with it. The motherboard should lie nearly flat over the screen frame after you put all the screws.
I'm not sure about the touch screen responsiveness, had no issues on my test even with slightly thick metal plate, could go away without the screen stress under it.
Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk
jaggyjags said:
Thanks, I used sand paper to make it the right thickness, if the metal plate is too thick you will see a purplish shadow on that area, it's just caused by too much pressure under the screen, try it several times without thermal paste until you see no shadow. The 0.6mm I said was my guess comparing it with some coins and their widths, it may be 0.5mm, don't have the right measurement equipment. Don't worry, the blue spot will go away completely.
It makes sense for the shadow to be worse with heat because metal expands slightly with it. The motherboard should lie nearly flat over the screen frame after you put all the screws.
I'm not sure about the touch screen responsiveness, had no issues on my test even with slightly thick metal plate, could go away without the screen stress under it.
Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its actually perfectly responsive, just not smooth. May be an app I installed so I will try resetting first. Not sure how I would file down a thermal pad. Its like a gritty rubber. Here's the link to what I got: ARCTIC - Thermal Pad 50 x 50 x 1.0 mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UYTTDO6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wvJBBbP1943TM Its super efficient. Maybe I could take it apaart again and press on the voard to flatten it a bit more.
corvettezo7sp said:
Its actually perfectly responsive, just not smooth. May be an app I installed so I will try resetting first. Not sure how I would file down a thermal pad. Its like a gritty rubber. Here's the link to what I got: ARCTIC - Thermal Pad 50 x 50 x 1.0 mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UYTTDO6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wvJBBbP1943TM Its super efficient. Maybe I could take it apaart again and press on the voard to flatten it a bit more.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, I misunderstood, probably 1mm thermal pad makes too much pressure on the screen when trying to flatten it to half of its thickness.
I found very cheap metal plates on ebay and aliexpress which is always better in terms of thermal conductivity compared to thermal pads. Or maybe thinner pads are also available.
http://m.aliexpress.com/item/32773823737.html?source=images
Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk
jaggyjags said:
Oh, I misunderstood, probably 1mm thermal pad makes too much pressure on the screen when trying to flatten it to half of its thickness.
I found very cheap metal plates on ebay and aliexpress which is always better in terms of thermal conductivity compared to thermal pads. Or maybe thinner pads are also available.
http://m.aliexpress.com/item/32773823737.html?source=images
Sent from my LG-H850 using Tapatalk
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Reset and screen is smooth again. No idea what happened but something changed while it was apart. I will order one of those. I really appreciate it. Whats your max temp with your metal material?? Not sure if 58c is high but before my entire phone would get hot. Now its just the front display. I really appreciate your thread and insight.
corvettezo7sp said:
Its actually perfectly responsive, just not smooth. May be an app I installed so I will try resetting first. Not sure how I would file down a thermal pad. Its like a gritty rubber. Here's the link to what I got: ARCTIC - Thermal Pad 50 x 50 x 1.0 mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UYTTDO6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wvJBBbP1943TM Its super efficient. Maybe I could take it apaart again and press on the voard to flatten it a bit more.
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really interesting...I would choose the pad with 0,5 mm...think this would do the trick...just bought two G5s with an broken display and ordered a display. you get photos if everything is prepared.
perhaps this pad is more efficient:
https://www.amazon.de/Alphacool-Eis...1533978184&sr=1-9&keywords=thermal+pad+1&th=1
MaStErB_1984 said:
really interesting...I would choose the pad with 0,5 mm...think this would do the trick...just bought two G5s with an broken display and ordered a display. you get photos if everything is prepared.
perhaps this pad is more efficient:
https://www.amazon.de/Alphacool-Eis...1533978184&sr=1-9&keywords=thermal+pad+1&th=1
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Definitely. Its 14w/mk. Much better than I got. Although I do beleive our cpus only need 1.5w/nk to be sufficient. Maybe ill get some of that and experiment with all the different materials. Ill post pictures myself if I dissasemble again. Since the reset though everyrhing has been smooth and cool. I'm in that dont touch but play harder mode. PUBG is flawless now and I havent lost a game since the mod. ? perfectly smooth through every game!
corvettezo7sp said:
Definitely. Its 14w/mk. Much better than I got. Although I do beleive our cpus only need 1.5w/nk to be sufficient. Maybe ill get some of that and experiment with all the different materials. Ill post pictures myself if I dissasemble again. Since the reset though everyrhing has been smooth and cool. I'm in that dont touch but play harder mode. PUBG is flawless now and I havent lost a game since the mod. perfectly smooth through every game!
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Very interesting!
You must use thermally conductive pads? It is not enough to use a thermo-conductive paste only, like in pc cpu?
coolmaker said:
Very interesting!
You must use thermally conductive pads? It is not enough to use a thermo-conductive paste only, like in pc cpu?
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Correct. The gap is too wide to use paste only. The thermal paste has a conductivity rating of 6 w/mk but only when its super thin. Like 1 1000ths of an inch thick. The thermal pads have the same heat conductivity even when they are thicker and are allot cleaner for the small space they are.
corvettezo7sp said:
Correct. The gap is too wide to use paste only. The thermal paste has a conductivity rating of 6 w/mk but only when its super thin. Like 1 1000ths of an inch thick. The thermal pads have the same heat conductivity even when they are thicker and are allot cleaner for the small space they are.
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You are amazing, Thank you for the explanation, I did not know that!
coolmaker said:
You are amazing, Thank you for the explanation, I did not know that!
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Here's some more pictures to make it easier or if you have done it already for someone who hasn't done it. I have a G5 that broke. Miss it, it was my first one. Definitely better than my current one. The previous owners water damage finally did it in. Anyway, here's a picture of the main board with screws and cameras removed in the display frame, a picture of the motherboard folded over from the left of the display frame, and a picture of the CPU up close. I have removed all shields so you will need to pull those off if you haven't already. I recommend plastic. Also these pictures will help you see where it lines up on the frame. Also while your in there you should do the GPS fix. Re assembly will either fix it or make it worse if it was previously working. Also the last picture is of the small connector that lines up to the rear of the frame. If you screw this up you may have signal issues. Line up the top of the display first before assembly. Don't slide the display up. Anyway, I'm going to also try thermal pads on the rear of the CPU next to see if the power supply resistors could use cooling as well.
Luckily I found this on time because the temp was around 85 C and it was leaving alot of image retention, after finding out this mod, I took a penny and filed it down thin enough not too thin but not too thick and then I put thermal paste on the CPU and have the penny in the same area as the CPU, it is a very tight fit and the screen is slightly warped upwards, but no problems and it has been much cooler, dropped it by 50 - 60 C. I give you lots of kudos for this :3
Hello everyone, just a follow question up to some of the comments.
Does the 0.5mm thermal pad fit? or is it better to use the copper sheets?
Thank you!