Can a magnet have a negative effect on my phone screen? I just bought a case the features a magnet clasp.
My understanding is that the Super-AMOLED display is not affected by magnetic fields.
What about the compass?
Unless the magnetic field from the case isn't strong enough to distort it; not sure how much is needed
You will be fine.
Should have no effect unless the screen is operating, the magnet is 3 times the size of an MRI machine's permanent magnet, and the phone is moving through its field at 100 MPH... (the only effect you could get is electromagnetic induction, which would run a current through anything.)
I have the Samsung Galaxy S case, which has a magnetic clasp. It messes up my compass calibration almost every time I put it in, but that problem is quickly solved.
What is all this compass stuff I am hearing about, I just got the phone 2 days ago is the compass that important/ how would I fix a problem with it?
XtaC318 said:
What about the compass?
Unless the magnetic field from the case isn't strong enough to distort it; not sure how much is needed
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Click to collapse
I would wager it uses a fibre gyro compass. The odds of having moving parts inside the phone for the sake of a compass is pretty slim.
Gyro compasses use voltage fed sensors and that is why they (and our phones) need to be calibrated. They are not susceptible to magnetic interference.
I could be wrong, but I would be shocked if they put a magnetic compass in a phone so that it needs to be converted to digital output rather than just put a cheap no-moving-parts-to-break gyro in it that is already digital.
Superbovine said:
I would wager it uses a fibre gyro compass. The odds of having moving parts inside the phone for the sake of a compass is pretty slim.
Gyro compasses use voltage fed sensors and that is why they (and our phones) need to be calibrated. They are not susceptible to magnetic interference.
I could be wrong, but I would be shocked if they put a magnetic compass in a phone so that it needs to be converted to digital output rather than just put a cheap no-moving-parts-to-break gyro in it that is already digital.
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Click to collapse
Thanks for the explanation =)
No problem. Here's some other reading on it if you're bored
Fibre optics: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fibre_optic_gyrocompass
Different ways of obtaining North and their faults: http://www.seasupport.org/compass.htm
So the consensus is that I'm safe with the magnet case right?
Robman62 said:
So the consensus is that I'm safe with the magnet case right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes. You'll be fine =)
Random tidbit: If you put a magnet against the camera lens, it will turn your phone on. I'm using a HD magnet but it might work with a weaker one.
othan1 said:
Random tidbit: If you put a magnet against the camera lens, it will turn your phone on. I'm using a HD magnet but it might work with a weaker one.
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This happens due to the the magnetic sensor used for the car dock that we never seemed to have gotten. It should keep your screen from going to sleep and, if you were to have the Car Dock application installed, would launch the application.
Discoloration
I bought a case with a magnet clip.
After only 1 week i got a brown-colored spot 1,5 cm in diameter just where the magnet was situated.
Now a couple of months later, the spot is still there.
Don't know how to get rid of it.
I just took a "scalpel and tweezers" to open the S-Pen and have prepared this image for you.
Check it out to see whats inside your great Galaxy notes' S-Pen!! All the parts are arranged in the picture in the right order as they are actually placed in the S-Pen.
Just to complete the label legends:
1: The Nib (The front end of the nib is what we see pointing out and use for writing/drawing etc. The other end of this nib has a "protrusion" that fits in the hole of the "cap" )
2: The Cap (as mentioned, one end of this cap has a small hole that fits in the nib, while the other end has a "protrusion" that fits in the "rubber ring"). I checked with a magnet and found its made of "iron".
3: The Ring (it is made of rubber and sits between the "cap" and the "coil" part of the electronic circuit.
4a: Coil: Its wounded on a little iron rod and connected with the "electronic circuit".
4b: Electronic circuit: It has a little button (thats where I have marked the arrow and labeled as 4b). This little button is what actually gets pressed when we press the "external button" of S-Pen.
5: The tail/terminal end of the S-Pen: This is what is needs to be pulled out to take out the entire circuitry and the little parts out of the S-Pen!!
6: The External Button: This is whats needs to be TWIZZED out, so that the entire circuitry and the little parts can slide out from the terminal end of the S-Pen!!
7: The main body: You can see this body and make out now how everything is fit-in properly!
I did not find any direct source of electricity in the S-Pen, and thus based on principles of electronics, its apparent that the small little movement (kinetic energy) produced by the "NIB" due to action of writing/drawing etc.must be exciting the electrons (electric energy) in the wounded COIL (magnetic influx), which is used by the circuit for appropriate action!! (Well, this is my own guess and I am welcoming appropriate suggestions.
So that's it!! I opened my S-Pen as it was not functioning properly after it fell down due to which I was required to "press the pen" a lot to write / draw. So I just opened and just "RE-PLACED" respective parts properly and my S-Pen is working fine now!!!
I guess this info can be useful if you have similar troubles!! Nevertheless, this ANATOMY is still helpful to SEE into this beautiful tool of this Superb Device!!!
And yesss... if you found this useful... a click at the THANKS BUTTON shall well be appreciated!!!
Ravindra9 said:
I did not find any direct source of electricity in the S-Pen, and thus based on principles of electronics, its apparent that the small little movement (kinetic energy) produced by the "NIB" due to action of writing/drawing etc.must be exciting the electrons (electric energy) in the wounded COIL (magnetic influx), which is used by the circuit for appropriate action!! (Well, this is my own guess and I am welcoming appropriate suggestions.
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I'm pretty sure it's magnetic resonance not kinetic motion used to generate the power for the s-pen. That's what the coil is for. When the pen get's close enough to the screen's surface, the small magnetic field that is emitted by the screen is picked up by the coil and hence power is transferred wirelessly. Normally AMOLED displays do not generate any significant magnetic fields, so this is something that specifically needs to be done on the Note with Faraday grid either behind the screen or integrated into the screen itself. Basically it's a way of very accurately and actively tracking the s-pen's location.
I think this is also the reason that the Note specifically has warnings about keeping it away from any other strong magnetic fields; it could interfere or permanently damage the magnetic nature of the s-pen's functionality.
Jade Eyed Wolf said:
I'm pretty sure it's magnetic resonance not kinetic motion used to generate the power for the s-pen. That's what the coil is for. When the pen get's close enough to the screen's surface, the small magnetic field that is emitted by the screen is picked up by the coil and hence power is transferred wirelessly. Normally AMOLED displays do not generate any significant magnetic fields, so this is something that specifically needs to be done on the Note with Faraday grid either behind the screen or integrated into the screen itself. Basically it's a way of very accurately and actively tracking the s-pen's location.
I think this is also the reason that the Note specifically has warnings about keeping it away from any other strong magnetic fields; it could interfere or permanently damage the magnetic nature of the s-pen's functionality.
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Thanks. I get your point.
I would love to try this with my pen and see if it fixes it, I have to press VERY hard to get anything to happen with it but being in the US its not worth dealing with a warranty for how little I use the pen.
Can you give some more details on how you actually got the pen open? I cant seem to figure out where to start.
Jade Eyed Wolf said:
I think this is also the reason that the Note specifically has warnings about keeping it away from any other strong magnetic fields; it could interfere or permanently damage the magnetic nature of the s-pen's functionality.
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Click to collapse
I just had a thought, could this explain the offset problems some users have reported? Since all of the Notes are imports, perhaps some subset of s-pens were subject to enhanced scanning/x-raying that exposed them to damaging magnetic fields.
Thank you, this was really interesting. I was wondering whats inside the S-pen everytime I take it out
Is it really work due to detection or interference of magnetic field on screen surface? Its sound more like ordinary reaction same like when we use our finger on the capacitive touch screen.
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Touchscreen
But why when i try the S pen on other capacitive touch screen and its did not work and cant be use except only on my SGN? I heard our S pen is actually are inductive pen! Not capacitive pen!
Sent from my GT-N7000 using XDA App
Are the 2 metallic components, to the right of the button, potentiometers?
If they are then we probly can adjust them to fine tune the offset of the pen on the screen and maybe the pressure sensitivity
Thxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
It's a Wacom digitizer
The pen works on my tablet PC, just as my laptop's pen works with my Note. In fact, the eraser on my tablet's pen works on my Galaxy Note.
Jade Eyed Wolf said:
I'm pretty sure it's magnetic resonance not kinetic motion used to generate the power for the s-pen.
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Yup, as manhattan212 mentions, it's a Wacom digitizer. Almost any Wacom digitizer pen will work with it.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wacom#Technology
Wacom tablets use a patented electromagnetic resonance technology.[22] Since the tablet provides power to the pen through resonant coupling, no battery or cord is required for the pointing device. As a result, there are no batteries inside the pen (or the accompanying puck), which makes them slimmer.
Under the tablet's surface (or LCD in the case of the Cintiq) is a printed circuit board with a grid of multiple send/receive coils and a magnetic reflector attached behind the grid array. In send mode, the tablet generates a close-coupled electromagnetic field (also known as a B-field) at a frequency of 531 kHz. This close-coupled field stimulates oscillation in the pen's coil/capacitor (LC) circuit when brought into range of the B-field. Any excess resonant electromagnetic energy is reflected back to the tablet. In receive mode, the energy of the resonant circuit’s oscillations in the pen is detected by the tablet's grid. This information is analyzed by the computer to determine the pen's position, by interpolation and Fourier analysis of the signal intensity. In addition, the pen communicates other vital information, such as pen tip pressure, side-switch status, tip vs. eraser orientation, and the ID number of the tool (to differentiate between different pens. mice, etc.). For example, applying more or less pressure to the tip of the pen changes the value of the pen's timing circuit capacitor. This signal change can be communicated in an analog or digital method. An analog implementation would modulate the phase angle of the resonant frequency, and a digital method is communicated to a modulator which distributes the information digitally to the tablet. The tablet forwards this and other relevant tool information in packets, up to 200 times per second, to the computer.
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eug said:
Yup, as manhattan212 mentions, it's a Wacom digitizer. Almost any Wacom digitizer pen will work with it.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wacom#Technology
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Click to collapse
Thanks. Well explained. This is exactly how tablet pens like Thinkpad X220t work...
sportedwood said:
I would love to try this with my pen and see if it fixes it, I have to press VERY hard to get anything to happen with it but being in the US its not worth dealing with a warranty for how little I use the pen.
Can you give some more details on how you actually got the pen open? I cant seem to figure out where to start.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To open your S-Pen you may follow these steps (Ok, let me assure you, its really easy!!):
1: Procure these: a Tray or a container to operate/open your S-Pen , A scalpel or a knife to tweez out the external button, a pair of Forceps to collect/handle the fine parts.
2: Take the scalpel and tweez out the external button.
3: Pull out the "The tail/terminal end of the S-Pen" that is the part labeled as 5 in the attachment of Post 1. ( IMPORTANT: Please remember, you MUST NOT TWIST, just PULL OUT STRAIGHT the "tail/terminal end of the S-Pen", because there is a groove/slot that fits in the electronic circuit and if you TWIST the "The tail/terminal end of the S-Pen", it might BREAK the groove/slot.)
4: Now turn your S-Pen upside down into the tray and all the respective parts will slide down.
5: To fix the things back, just follow the order as explained in the original post. I found it easy to use the forceps to place the "rubber ring" on the top of the "Coil", then on this I placed the "CAP" in appropriate direction such that the protrusion of the cap sits in the ring, and then on this cap I placed the "Nib"in appropriate direction such that the protrusion on the rear side of the Nib sits in the groove of the Cap. Now carefully, take the Main Body (labeled as 7 in post 1) and slide it DOWN slowly on the "arrangement" and when it reaches the end, take the "Tail/terminal end of the S-Pen" and match the groove/slot carefully and push it UP properly. Now just place the "external button" by matching the correct ends such that the little protrusion sits EXACTLY on the "electronic button".
That's it and you are DONE!!
Enjoy the surgery...
Wireless Energy in Galaxy Note
Amazing just how much technology is surrounding the Note. Even in places where you don't immediately expect.
I was wondering how S Pen functioned from first sight, considering that it had button that send signal to Note, but no mention about the battery anywhere and no opening for it in the pen. It's superb to use Tesla's wireless energy transmission methods to power S Pen!
Samsung could have earned extra credit if they spoke about this technology in the marketing, but I guess they did not want to make it sound too sophisticated. Which is probably right strategy for majority of users.
Astrum said:
Amazing just how much technology is surrounding the Note. Even in places where you don't immediately expect.
I was wondering how S Pen functioned from first sight, considering that it had button that send signal to Note, but no mention about the battery anywhere and no opening for it in the pen. It's superb to use Tesla's wireless energy transmission methods to power S Pen!
Samsung could have earned extra credit if they spoke about this technology in the marketing, but I guess they did not want to make it sound too sophisticated. Which is probably right strategy for majority of users.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you know how tesla wanted to make tesla coils as weapons so they disintegrate soldiers and vehicles that was in the path/range of it. You would don't want to advertise it too.
Welcome to C&C Timberian Sun.
Long live KAIN
Sent from my GT-N7000 using XDA App
linking a few videos about the spen having a wacom digitiser and about other pens with erasers working on the note. see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2fzC3JVSUs and also see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IKeb3j2K4WM&list=FL_ScoWWHNIr3zWwO7CPPapg&feature=mh_lolz
edit: looks like samsung is readying larger tablets with pen input also see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_jj6zHpFmYg
Wow, here is a nice explanation by @steveblue on how this beautiful tool works...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1439369
(thanks @steveblue yet again
Samsung S-Pen water resistance
Thanks for the teardown. I was very happy to find this article.
Does anyone have a sense of how water resistant the S-Pen is? I managed to squeeze a Galaxy Note into the DC-13 Dry Case for use in and around . The pen works great through the case but I'm left wondering how likely the circuitry might corrode if dropped in accidentally.
Does the little rubber ring seem to seal out water somewhat? How tight did the cap feel? Also, did the electronics appear to have a slight glaze over it as if dipped or sprayed with a thin barrier? Most modern electronics have a basic coating to prevent corrosion from humidity, etc. I have to wonder if they have a water indication sticker in there to void the warrantee.
My guess is anyone getting in one wet might get lucky just as a often do with mobile phones. It'd be a but I imagine one could open the cap, blow air through it, and use a desiccant like rice in the freezer. Any have any success or horror stories to share?
Regardless, they don't look too expensive. Probably won't be long until Liquipel will accept these popular devices.
AquaeAtrae said:
Thanks for the teardown. I was very happy to find this article.
Does anyone have a sense of how water resistant the S-Pen is? I managed to squeeze a Galaxy Note into the DC-13 Dry Case for use in and around . The pen works great through the case but I'm left wondering how likely the circuitry might corrode if dropped in accidentally.
Does the little rubber ring seem to seal out water somewhat? How tight did the cap feel? Also, did the electronics appear to have a slight glaze over it as if dipped or sprayed with a thin barrier? Most modern electronics have a basic coating to prevent corrosion from humidity, etc. I have to wonder if they have a water indication sticker in there to void the warrantee.
My guess is anyone getting in one wet might get lucky just as a often do with mobile phones. It'd be a but I imagine one could open the cap, blow air through it, and use a desiccant like rice in the freezer. Any have any success or horror stories to share?
Regardless, they don't look too expensive. Probably won't be long until Liquipel will accept these popular devices.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks AquaeAtrae. I am glad that you liked the article!
Although not sure how water resistive the S-Pen (or its circuit) is, however to answer your few queries I can opine that if dropped accidentally in water, the circuit should not necessarily "corrode" as noticeably there does not seem any corrosive elements used in the circuitry (or the S-Pen's "outer shell"). I also believe that if dropped accidentally in water, the S-Pen should still work fine if dried properly. And it is so, primarily because there is no battery/power source and thus any water-accident would not adversly impact the electrical conductance, as is the case with similar accidents in case of usual pen-drives.
In my opinion, the little rubber ring would not seal out water, as it is rather loosely fit. The plastic cap is indeed tightly fit, which may help seal out water. I did not find any noticeable "glaze" or enamel or lacquer coat over the circuit.
As you must be already aware, the S-Pen is similar to any Wacom digitizer, with similar properties. Water-proofing the same may not be a bad idea though as it would enhance the perceived value without any significant impact on the cost!!
Interesting article, thanks! I never would've thought there was so much "stuff" in that little pen.
i love this stuff. looks a pretty solid build IMO.
http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nvidia+Shield+Teardown/16212/1
Wow.
7350mAh batt? .... HOLY %&$#!
Yeah, that seems to be where the weight comes from. It's too bad that battery is difficult to replace according to that tear down though. I hate it when items that by their design (like a battery) will wear out over time are difficult to replace. At least the fan seems easy to replace. Fans tend to be an item that seems to like to wear out after many years.
im really glad the buttons are the rubber diaphragm kind and not the crappy surface mount ones that have become typical of newer handhelds.
the surface-mount kind eventually fail and will be a PIA to replace with out a hot air station. the rubber kind seem to last forever with the occasional cleaning. i still have NES controllers going strong but yet GBA Sp or 3Ds with button failures require a whole new main board
not to mention the feel is just soooo much better with the rubber diaphragm.
I have effectively set up the finger print scanner and it works 99% of the time first time. However, Whenever I get out of the shower for about an hour afterwards the fingerprint scanner just doesn't work at all no matter what I do. What could be causing this? Is it maybe my body temperature? Or maybe my finger changes slightly while being in the shower enough to make the reader think iit's not me?
The scanner doesn't find the dirt at your fingertip it detected while registering the finger prints.
Serious: You skin extends while taking a shower; the longer the shower and the higher the temperature, the more your fingerprints deviate from the registered ones.
That could be the reason.
Chefproll said:
The scanner doesn't find the dirt at your fingertip it detected while registering the finger prints.
Serious: You skin extends while taking a shower; the longer the shower and the higher the temperature, the more your fingerprints deviate from the registered ones.
That could be the reason.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Seems legit, Yet I never have problems with the fingerprint scanner after taking a shower.
Chefproll said:
The scanner doesn't find the dirt at your fingertip it detected while registering the finger prints.
Serious: You skin extends while taking a shower; the longer the shower and the higher the temperature, the more your fingerprints deviate from the registered ones.
That could be the reason.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sees fair enough, just a tad annoying that's all.
another possible cause
It could also be that the shower dries your hands out and it takes a while for the natural oils in your hands to build back up. This happens to me at work. I am a nurse and I use fingerprint scanners to remove medications from machines. I have really dry skin and when my hands get dry from all of the hand washing the fingerprint scanners won't read my prints unless I use lotion or breathe on my finger first to make it moist.
I've been using my Priv for a year and a half now, without showing it much mercy. Without a case and a screen protector, it held up very well until I took a fall while holding it and cracked the screen. I decided to transplant my motherboard into a defective but like-new unit, and was shocked to see how the heat from the 808 distorted the copper foil that was supposed to help dissipate it. Also, my unit had way too much thermal paste just poured in it, which seems like an afterthought because the upside of the processor doesn't touch any proper heatsink - only the metal frame of the middle of the phone. After reading that a user achieved some improvement by sticking tinfoil between his 810 equipped Xperia Z3+ and an external case, I decided to try to put some tinfoil between the back side of the processor and the back casing. Removing the back housing is very easy and doesn't require any tools, so later modifications and tweaks are not a problem. I covered almost the entire back of the device with tinfoil and closed the housing back on it. The result is quite amazing - the spot where the 808 is placed, where the device used to get so hot I could not comfortably touch it, is now only mildly warm. To confirm that this solution actually worked, I installed antutu both on the modified and on the donor device. The modified unit held the processor at 1500 mhz under the stress test and did not feel hot at all. The unmodified unit dropped quickly to 1200 mhz and stayed there for the entire test. The unit feels a little snappier now, but I do think that the major improvement is in not having to hold that hot potato anymore. Regardless of this fairy tail, I will be purchasing the Key2. Another lesson learned from comparing my old device to the new one is how much an amoled panel degrades in the course of 18 months. I am not bothered by burn in (the bottom stripe is bright compared to the rest of the display), but the display itself is much less vibrant and the colors are much warmer after all that use. It will be hard to part with the beautiful colors I get from the new replacement panel, but overall an LCD has the advantages of maintaining its quality over time, and also being much cheaper to replace. A screen for the Priv costs around $120, while Keyone LCDs cost less than $50.
I wouldn't try that for these reasons:
1: tinfoil is conductive AFAIK, so it might cause an undesired shortcircuit between some exposed contacts
2: for the same reason, it might impact the antennas
However it makes sense from a thermal only point of view!
I'm just curious if you considered the points above and took care of where and how to place the tinfoil?
And did you notice any change in reception quility?