I just took a "scalpel and tweezers" to open the S-Pen and have prepared this image for you.
Check it out to see whats inside your great Galaxy notes' S-Pen!! All the parts are arranged in the picture in the right order as they are actually placed in the S-Pen.
Just to complete the label legends:
1: The Nib (The front end of the nib is what we see pointing out and use for writing/drawing etc. The other end of this nib has a "protrusion" that fits in the hole of the "cap" )
2: The Cap (as mentioned, one end of this cap has a small hole that fits in the nib, while the other end has a "protrusion" that fits in the "rubber ring"). I checked with a magnet and found its made of "iron".
3: The Ring (it is made of rubber and sits between the "cap" and the "coil" part of the electronic circuit.
4a: Coil: Its wounded on a little iron rod and connected with the "electronic circuit".
4b: Electronic circuit: It has a little button (thats where I have marked the arrow and labeled as 4b). This little button is what actually gets pressed when we press the "external button" of S-Pen.
5: The tail/terminal end of the S-Pen: This is what is needs to be pulled out to take out the entire circuitry and the little parts out of the S-Pen!!
6: The External Button: This is whats needs to be TWIZZED out, so that the entire circuitry and the little parts can slide out from the terminal end of the S-Pen!!
7: The main body: You can see this body and make out now how everything is fit-in properly!
I did not find any direct source of electricity in the S-Pen, and thus based on principles of electronics, its apparent that the small little movement (kinetic energy) produced by the "NIB" due to action of writing/drawing etc.must be exciting the electrons (electric energy) in the wounded COIL (magnetic influx), which is used by the circuit for appropriate action!! (Well, this is my own guess and I am welcoming appropriate suggestions.
So that's it!! I opened my S-Pen as it was not functioning properly after it fell down due to which I was required to "press the pen" a lot to write / draw. So I just opened and just "RE-PLACED" respective parts properly and my S-Pen is working fine now!!!
I guess this info can be useful if you have similar troubles!! Nevertheless, this ANATOMY is still helpful to SEE into this beautiful tool of this Superb Device!!!
And yesss... if you found this useful... a click at the THANKS BUTTON shall well be appreciated!!!
Ravindra9 said:
I did not find any direct source of electricity in the S-Pen, and thus based on principles of electronics, its apparent that the small little movement (kinetic energy) produced by the "NIB" due to action of writing/drawing etc.must be exciting the electrons (electric energy) in the wounded COIL (magnetic influx), which is used by the circuit for appropriate action!! (Well, this is my own guess and I am welcoming appropriate suggestions.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm pretty sure it's magnetic resonance not kinetic motion used to generate the power for the s-pen. That's what the coil is for. When the pen get's close enough to the screen's surface, the small magnetic field that is emitted by the screen is picked up by the coil and hence power is transferred wirelessly. Normally AMOLED displays do not generate any significant magnetic fields, so this is something that specifically needs to be done on the Note with Faraday grid either behind the screen or integrated into the screen itself. Basically it's a way of very accurately and actively tracking the s-pen's location.
I think this is also the reason that the Note specifically has warnings about keeping it away from any other strong magnetic fields; it could interfere or permanently damage the magnetic nature of the s-pen's functionality.
Jade Eyed Wolf said:
I'm pretty sure it's magnetic resonance not kinetic motion used to generate the power for the s-pen. That's what the coil is for. When the pen get's close enough to the screen's surface, the small magnetic field that is emitted by the screen is picked up by the coil and hence power is transferred wirelessly. Normally AMOLED displays do not generate any significant magnetic fields, so this is something that specifically needs to be done on the Note with Faraday grid either behind the screen or integrated into the screen itself. Basically it's a way of very accurately and actively tracking the s-pen's location.
I think this is also the reason that the Note specifically has warnings about keeping it away from any other strong magnetic fields; it could interfere or permanently damage the magnetic nature of the s-pen's functionality.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. I get your point.
I would love to try this with my pen and see if it fixes it, I have to press VERY hard to get anything to happen with it but being in the US its not worth dealing with a warranty for how little I use the pen.
Can you give some more details on how you actually got the pen open? I cant seem to figure out where to start.
Jade Eyed Wolf said:
I think this is also the reason that the Note specifically has warnings about keeping it away from any other strong magnetic fields; it could interfere or permanently damage the magnetic nature of the s-pen's functionality.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just had a thought, could this explain the offset problems some users have reported? Since all of the Notes are imports, perhaps some subset of s-pens were subject to enhanced scanning/x-raying that exposed them to damaging magnetic fields.
Thank you, this was really interesting. I was wondering whats inside the S-pen everytime I take it out
Is it really work due to detection or interference of magnetic field on screen surface? Its sound more like ordinary reaction same like when we use our finger on the capacitive touch screen.
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Touchscreen
But why when i try the S pen on other capacitive touch screen and its did not work and cant be use except only on my SGN? I heard our S pen is actually are inductive pen! Not capacitive pen!
Sent from my GT-N7000 using XDA App
Are the 2 metallic components, to the right of the button, potentiometers?
If they are then we probly can adjust them to fine tune the offset of the pen on the screen and maybe the pressure sensitivity
Thxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
It's a Wacom digitizer
The pen works on my tablet PC, just as my laptop's pen works with my Note. In fact, the eraser on my tablet's pen works on my Galaxy Note.
Jade Eyed Wolf said:
I'm pretty sure it's magnetic resonance not kinetic motion used to generate the power for the s-pen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup, as manhattan212 mentions, it's a Wacom digitizer. Almost any Wacom digitizer pen will work with it.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wacom#Technology
Wacom tablets use a patented electromagnetic resonance technology.[22] Since the tablet provides power to the pen through resonant coupling, no battery or cord is required for the pointing device. As a result, there are no batteries inside the pen (or the accompanying puck), which makes them slimmer.
Under the tablet's surface (or LCD in the case of the Cintiq) is a printed circuit board with a grid of multiple send/receive coils and a magnetic reflector attached behind the grid array. In send mode, the tablet generates a close-coupled electromagnetic field (also known as a B-field) at a frequency of 531 kHz. This close-coupled field stimulates oscillation in the pen's coil/capacitor (LC) circuit when brought into range of the B-field. Any excess resonant electromagnetic energy is reflected back to the tablet. In receive mode, the energy of the resonant circuit’s oscillations in the pen is detected by the tablet's grid. This information is analyzed by the computer to determine the pen's position, by interpolation and Fourier analysis of the signal intensity. In addition, the pen communicates other vital information, such as pen tip pressure, side-switch status, tip vs. eraser orientation, and the ID number of the tool (to differentiate between different pens. mice, etc.). For example, applying more or less pressure to the tip of the pen changes the value of the pen's timing circuit capacitor. This signal change can be communicated in an analog or digital method. An analog implementation would modulate the phase angle of the resonant frequency, and a digital method is communicated to a modulator which distributes the information digitally to the tablet. The tablet forwards this and other relevant tool information in packets, up to 200 times per second, to the computer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
eug said:
Yup, as manhattan212 mentions, it's a Wacom digitizer. Almost any Wacom digitizer pen will work with it.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wacom#Technology
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. Well explained. This is exactly how tablet pens like Thinkpad X220t work...
sportedwood said:
I would love to try this with my pen and see if it fixes it, I have to press VERY hard to get anything to happen with it but being in the US its not worth dealing with a warranty for how little I use the pen.
Can you give some more details on how you actually got the pen open? I cant seem to figure out where to start.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
To open your S-Pen you may follow these steps (Ok, let me assure you, its really easy!!):
1: Procure these: a Tray or a container to operate/open your S-Pen , A scalpel or a knife to tweez out the external button, a pair of Forceps to collect/handle the fine parts.
2: Take the scalpel and tweez out the external button.
3: Pull out the "The tail/terminal end of the S-Pen" that is the part labeled as 5 in the attachment of Post 1. ( IMPORTANT: Please remember, you MUST NOT TWIST, just PULL OUT STRAIGHT the "tail/terminal end of the S-Pen", because there is a groove/slot that fits in the electronic circuit and if you TWIST the "The tail/terminal end of the S-Pen", it might BREAK the groove/slot.)
4: Now turn your S-Pen upside down into the tray and all the respective parts will slide down.
5: To fix the things back, just follow the order as explained in the original post. I found it easy to use the forceps to place the "rubber ring" on the top of the "Coil", then on this I placed the "CAP" in appropriate direction such that the protrusion of the cap sits in the ring, and then on this cap I placed the "Nib"in appropriate direction such that the protrusion on the rear side of the Nib sits in the groove of the Cap. Now carefully, take the Main Body (labeled as 7 in post 1) and slide it DOWN slowly on the "arrangement" and when it reaches the end, take the "Tail/terminal end of the S-Pen" and match the groove/slot carefully and push it UP properly. Now just place the "external button" by matching the correct ends such that the little protrusion sits EXACTLY on the "electronic button".
That's it and you are DONE!!
Enjoy the surgery...
Wireless Energy in Galaxy Note
Amazing just how much technology is surrounding the Note. Even in places where you don't immediately expect.
I was wondering how S Pen functioned from first sight, considering that it had button that send signal to Note, but no mention about the battery anywhere and no opening for it in the pen. It's superb to use Tesla's wireless energy transmission methods to power S Pen!
Samsung could have earned extra credit if they spoke about this technology in the marketing, but I guess they did not want to make it sound too sophisticated. Which is probably right strategy for majority of users.
Astrum said:
Amazing just how much technology is surrounding the Note. Even in places where you don't immediately expect.
I was wondering how S Pen functioned from first sight, considering that it had button that send signal to Note, but no mention about the battery anywhere and no opening for it in the pen. It's superb to use Tesla's wireless energy transmission methods to power S Pen!
Samsung could have earned extra credit if they spoke about this technology in the marketing, but I guess they did not want to make it sound too sophisticated. Which is probably right strategy for majority of users.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you know how tesla wanted to make tesla coils as weapons so they disintegrate soldiers and vehicles that was in the path/range of it. You would don't want to advertise it too.
Welcome to C&C Timberian Sun.
Long live KAIN
Sent from my GT-N7000 using XDA App
linking a few videos about the spen having a wacom digitiser and about other pens with erasers working on the note. see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2fzC3JVSUs and also see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IKeb3j2K4WM&list=FL_ScoWWHNIr3zWwO7CPPapg&feature=mh_lolz
edit: looks like samsung is readying larger tablets with pen input also see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_jj6zHpFmYg
Wow, here is a nice explanation by @steveblue on how this beautiful tool works...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1439369
(thanks @steveblue yet again
Samsung S-Pen water resistance
Thanks for the teardown. I was very happy to find this article.
Does anyone have a sense of how water resistant the S-Pen is? I managed to squeeze a Galaxy Note into the DC-13 Dry Case for use in and around . The pen works great through the case but I'm left wondering how likely the circuitry might corrode if dropped in accidentally.
Does the little rubber ring seem to seal out water somewhat? How tight did the cap feel? Also, did the electronics appear to have a slight glaze over it as if dipped or sprayed with a thin barrier? Most modern electronics have a basic coating to prevent corrosion from humidity, etc. I have to wonder if they have a water indication sticker in there to void the warrantee.
My guess is anyone getting in one wet might get lucky just as a often do with mobile phones. It'd be a but I imagine one could open the cap, blow air through it, and use a desiccant like rice in the freezer. Any have any success or horror stories to share?
Regardless, they don't look too expensive. Probably won't be long until Liquipel will accept these popular devices.
AquaeAtrae said:
Thanks for the teardown. I was very happy to find this article.
Does anyone have a sense of how water resistant the S-Pen is? I managed to squeeze a Galaxy Note into the DC-13 Dry Case for use in and around . The pen works great through the case but I'm left wondering how likely the circuitry might corrode if dropped in accidentally.
Does the little rubber ring seem to seal out water somewhat? How tight did the cap feel? Also, did the electronics appear to have a slight glaze over it as if dipped or sprayed with a thin barrier? Most modern electronics have a basic coating to prevent corrosion from humidity, etc. I have to wonder if they have a water indication sticker in there to void the warrantee.
My guess is anyone getting in one wet might get lucky just as a often do with mobile phones. It'd be a but I imagine one could open the cap, blow air through it, and use a desiccant like rice in the freezer. Any have any success or horror stories to share?
Regardless, they don't look too expensive. Probably won't be long until Liquipel will accept these popular devices.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks AquaeAtrae. I am glad that you liked the article!
Although not sure how water resistive the S-Pen (or its circuit) is, however to answer your few queries I can opine that if dropped accidentally in water, the circuit should not necessarily "corrode" as noticeably there does not seem any corrosive elements used in the circuitry (or the S-Pen's "outer shell"). I also believe that if dropped accidentally in water, the S-Pen should still work fine if dried properly. And it is so, primarily because there is no battery/power source and thus any water-accident would not adversly impact the electrical conductance, as is the case with similar accidents in case of usual pen-drives.
In my opinion, the little rubber ring would not seal out water, as it is rather loosely fit. The plastic cap is indeed tightly fit, which may help seal out water. I did not find any noticeable "glaze" or enamel or lacquer coat over the circuit.
As you must be already aware, the S-Pen is similar to any Wacom digitizer, with similar properties. Water-proofing the same may not be a bad idea though as it would enhance the perceived value without any significant impact on the cost!!
Interesting article, thanks! I never would've thought there was so much "stuff" in that little pen.
Related
Have been using this case with my Fuze for a couple of weeks now, and depending upon one's Preferences it could range anywhere from the Best Thing Going to a Total Waste.
I will put it somewhere in the middle: the case shows some Brilliant Ideas, which (Alas!) have either been Poorly Executed or simply Not Well Thought Out - although, again, personal preference may determine how you choose between the two!
Purchase was made through an E-bay Store:
http://stores.ebay.com/Accessories-Pro-shop
The case is also available from an outfit called "Xell" - and there does seem to be a connection between Xell and "Accessories-Pro-shop."
Thumbs Up:
1) Seems to be well made, with good stitching, a nice feel (and Appearance!) to the leather, and a good magnetic clasp.
2) Holds the Fuze securely WITHOUT putting a sheet of plastic over the keyboard.
3) Allows access to all controls - including sliding keyboard & rear camera lens - without having to remove the Fuze from the case.
Thumbs Sideways: Things that some people might like, but which lead to problems:
1) Built in holders for MicroSD cards (2) and SIM card (1).
2) Small "Paper Pocket" for storing bits of paper
3) Pouch to carry extra stylus
4) Built in Stand to hold device at angle while resting on desktop.
Thumbs Down:
1) The Paper Pocket is too small to carry a Credit Card - and too tight to permit easy access.
2) The holders for the SD/SIM Cards press up against the screen when the case is closed - and can (DID) cause unintended commands to be issued - specifically, either CUTTING OFF phone calls, or UNINTENTIONALLY DIALING phone calls. The former is due to the placement & height of the SIM card carrier, while the latter is due to the placement & height of a Leather Flap that covers the card holders (protects screen from metal card holders, and looks prettier).
3) The Stylus pouch causes the "grip" of the stylus to rest against one of the tabs that secures the Fuze in place, and thus prevents the back (end binding) of the case from sitting tightly against the Fuze.
4) All of these Features combine to produce a package that ranges from 1.25" to nearly 1.5" thick (at the highest point of the metallic clasp), and makes for a Significant Brick in one's pocket.
This is strictly an In Your Pocket (or Bag) case: there is no Belt Clasp. Considered this an ADVANTAGE when ordering the case - however, due to the WIDTH of the case-with-Fuze, there are time when a Belt Clasp might be welcomed.
After having several calls DISCONNECTED, I removed the card holders. This also had the effect of making the case slightly less bulky, as that flap now sat closer to the screen.
However, this produced a situation where the Leather Flap for the card holders was now able to cause a REDIAL as the top stitching that held it in place now pressed up against the screen.
Removing the leather flap eliminated that problem, AND permits the outer flap to rest tightly against the screen, thus eliminating the GAPS (that can be seen in the photos that I HOPE to figure out how to attach to this message!).
Alas, the end binding was cut to allow the additional thickness (of the items we have just removed), so now the outer flap of the case tends to slide back and forth across the face of the Fuze whenever the case is grasped / manipulated in certain ways (but not always).
It turns out that putting the extra Stylus into the pouch in the case prevents most of this sliding action, but does not permit the flap to come out to the same distance as its opposite number.... Am thinking about putting a small felt 'bumper' where the pouch is, although wonder whether it will adhere to the leather... (Or perhaps put something INSIDE the stylus pouch.)
As noted above, will ATTEMPT to post some pictures of the case. If that works, will also post another message with pix of the Bytech case originally purchased & a couple of Post Surgery pix of the Capdase....
A few extra photos of the Capdase Leather Case, showing
the "Paper Pocket" location,
the amount of space taken up by the device carrying clasp and its attachment to the leather case,
post-minor surgery, with the card holders removed (have not taken a picture with the leather flap out of the way, but that should be easy enough to imagine)
the height of the SIM holder: 2 pennies high, which doesn't seem like a lot, but was evidently sufficient to activate the "End Call" touch-screen button...
Finally, here are a few pictures of the Capdase Bifold along with the Bytech Slip Case that we originally purchased.
The Bytech looks OK, especially in some of the pictures, but in Real Life the Capdase has a much richer look AND feel. On the other hand, the Bytech cost around $6 (box is marked $12.99, but would have felt ripped-off at that price!), as opposed to something like $25 for the Capdase (including S&H).
The Bytech has a large Belt Clip. This is sturdy, but can neither be adjusted nor removed. It also results in both cases being nearly the same height (or Depth, depending upon perspective).
Note that the Bytech allows the Fuze to protrude slightly from either end, holding the device in place with a couple of tabs that are each stretch-fabric secured at one of their ends: struck me as a probable failure point, given enough usage.
There is also a small RIDGE inside of the Bytech that tended to interfere with one end of the Fuze's screen protector (that was not, admittedly, perfectly flat), and resulted in lifting that corner (lower right) on several occasions. That corner of the screen protector is now CUT at an angle as a result of this interference.
The interior of the Bytech is some sort of flocked material that feels surprisingly rough to the touch.
Did like the FULL flap on the Bytech. It is secured by 2 magnets and allows the case to lie flat when laid on a table.
The Bytech is model "WEST107-SMALL Black Case Nokia N95," but the box is also marked "Fits most small size phones."
Nice job on the comparison. Thx
scottwood2 said:
Nice job on the comparison. Thx
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're welcome. Tried to think about what I would appreciate reading / seeing in a "mini-review."
The Capdase case really LOOKS nice, feels like a quality piece, and like the fact that there is NO PLASTIC over the keyboard - but it is certainly not a perfect design: either the top flap sits too tightly upon the screen (as case is delivered), OR it flops about a bit too much (post "surgery").
Am thinking seriously about ordering one of the thinner 'snap-on' cases (if able to determine which ones are actually "thinner") and just using the TOP portion of the snap-on case, partially in hopes it would "fill out" the Fuze, but MAINLY hoping it would serve as a 'buffer' between the Fuze screen and the front of the Capdase case (or whatever similar case may be found in the future).
Great fun!
http://adonit.net/product/jot/
http://www.amazon.com/Jot-Capacitive-Touch-Stylus-Red/dp/B005GSS8TG/ref=pd_cp_e_1
I know there are many reviews out here, but wanted to make my own review here. As my time is pressed this will not be the longest review but a few key points I may expound on later.
The Jot is a stylus along the same principles as the dagi styli. Using a small plastic clear disc with ingrained conductive material in order to relay the 'touch' to the screen.
I have used many styli, from bamboo, to dagi, to ayl, to boxwave.
However, jot is definitely the best by far. Here are some bullet points to keep in mind:
*Uses clear disc at tip to increase accuracy and view of user
*REPLACEABLE tips help significantly reduce costs, increase longevity, and allow a more forgiving stylus to accidental damage
*A very conductive casing, which can act as its own stylus (I have used the metal housing as its own stylus)
*Screw on cap, that screws on to keep from being accidentally removed, and screws on the end to increase length and to avoid being lost
*Nice colors (not a pro for some, but where I like my red)
*Lightweight and feels slim in the hand while still being comfortable
*VERY helpful customer service. (I, myself, damaged the tip by my own error and they sent me TWO replacements for FREE when the original one only had one tip)
*Very agile tip. Unlike dagi styli, the tip swings freely on the ball bearing (literally can hold it by the tip and the stylus will swing very loosely) meaning that it is easy to use quickly without focusing on how you are holding it.
*The Jot Pro has its own additional pros, but I prefer the Jot to the Jot Pro cause I dont need magnets to hold it or a rubber grip
Cons
*No rubber tip supplemental. May not be a real "con" but I would like to see a rubber tip because sometimes I just want to use one.
*Popping the tip back on the stylus can damage the tip if done incorrectly. (The tip is actually two separate clear discs held together, and you have to put the tip on a hard, or at least resistant, surface and then press the stylus into it to snap it on. If you dont have something like a table or other resistant surface to use then you might wind up pressing the stylus through the first part of the tip and separating the two plastic discs.
*Some screens can be a little resistant to the disc sliding around, like the a500. My Galaxy S2 works awesome with this, but the acer a500 is a little resistant.
Thats the review so far, I may amend it later with more information.
Maybe a little RainX would help it glide better on the A500? Anyway thanks for the post, will be ordering one soon.
WOW! I really like the design on this one. I bought a dagi awhile back and the tip broke off eventually and I'm never rough with stuff. This one with the ball on end seems 1000 times better because then no plastic is flexing and weakening. I might actually buy this one even after deciding to not buy another stylus after last one broke.
I'm reviving the thread in the hopes that someone who owns one chimes in - if you have a video of you using it on the a500 or an opinion, please share.
I don't often post here, and and I don't know if this issue has been addressed before, but but I'd like to tell you about my experience with the note:
I received the phone just today, and after bying it online.. All was good, and I already had a case (a faux-leather flip case), waiting, and and put it in immediately. After playing with it for a few hours, and I noticed that there was a dead spot on the screen. But only when using the s-pen, and a few hasty emails and a phone call to Kogan (off whom I bought the phone), revealed that this was a inhear-of-before phenomenon. As of writing, I've yet to receive word whethery they'll accept a return.
However, that would be rather pointless, and since I have since fixed the issue. It seems that the magnet holding the case flap closed was pretty powerful, powerful enough, in fact, to cause the active digitizer to stop working on that of the phone that the magnet was under. After I removed the case the s-pen worked in the spot, as well as the rest of the screen.
So be warned, test your cases if you can before you buy them, especially if they have a magnetic clasp or similar.
(sorry for the prose)
I have been avoiding magnets because of several posts on the subject. There have also been several stating there are no issues.
I prefer to remain safe, and I am grateful for your advice. Magnets near a device relying on magnetic resonance are probably not a good idea. Better safe than sorry IMO.
Strange how some people have this problem. My note has been sitting in a magnet case for 4 months now with no such problems. I guess it depends on the case and how strong the magnet is but I could not do without my case so I will carry on using it for now.
georgios73 said:
Strange how some people have this problem. My note has been sitting in a magnet case for 4 months now with no such problems. I guess it depends on the case and how strong the magnet is but I could not do without my case so I will carry on using it for now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think it also depends on where the magnet is. Mine was on the back, directly behind the device.
georgios73 said:
Strange how some people have this problem. My note has been sitting in a magnet case for 4 months now with no such problems. I guess it depends on the case and how strong the magnet is but I could not do without my case so I will carry on using it for now.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree. More testing, and definitely more information from Samsung, is required.
I wonder if it is the TYPE of magnet, not so much the size.
If it is one of those cheap magnets, maybe it won't bother it
as much as the stronger neodymium magnets?
thanks
thanks man.. for sharing this..
I also have avoided the magnet cases due to this fact and have been trying to find cases that use some other alternate means for closure, like maybe velcro instead. I was also even considering that Sweet Case made out of aluminum, but at ~$70, it is rather pricey. I have just been going case less and totally naked with it and so far no problems.
IIRC there is a comment about magnetic fields in the manual...
similarly too, there is a comment about electrostatic fields, so if you are in an environment where sparks fly off your fingertips at intervals be SURE to discharge yourself before touching your SGN.. you may kill the touch response of the screen..
been there, did that, luckily it was a $50 C/H digital thermostat.
EDIT: 2 April 3:00pm
found it: Page 25 of the GT-N7000 Quick start guide states
"Do not store your device near magnetic fields"; and inclusively states "Do not use carrying cases or accessories with magnetic closures"
Man, I guess I have to quit being a Dark Sith Lord. But I have so much fun using Force Lightning to kill all those annoying Jedi do-gooders
I have a Tridea case with a magnet. The magnet is in the part that locks the cover to the back of the phone.
If I fold that piece behind the phone, there is some influence from the magnet. The influence disappears if I leave some space between the magnet and the back of the phone.
It is only a small problem for me, and only noticeable when I play Draw something or similar apps.
My case:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=24121326&postcount=330
Sent from the Note taker with Tapatalk
magnets, how do they work??
I have the same issue, I strapped a powermat charging coil to the inside of my casemate tough case, the result is a dead spot directly above the magnet in terms of the spen.
My dilemma is whether to forgo use of the s-pen for the ease of wireless charging.
For the moment as I rarely use the s-pen, the inductive charging coil is staying in place.
The s-pen works as soon as the powermat coil is removed but I'm not sure if it could do lasting damage?
Sent from my GT-N7000 using xda premium
Mystic38 said:
IIRC there is a comment about magnetic fields in the manual...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There's a manual? Who knew!
rhn said:
magnets, how do they work??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That, my friend, is one of the great unanswered questions of the universe. Gravity is another one. We know what goes on, but not always how. It is mostly at the atomic level, although you have to look into the quantum level to find out more. One day we may figure it out!
Thanks for the warning! I doesn't use a case with magnets, but it's always good to know if I ever would.
/ Jimmy
Signed up to say thanks OP. I too had this situation where i had dramatic penmark deviation on my note. I use notebook style case w/ magnet
I was considering getting it swapped under warranty but then realised the odd behaviour happened in s-memo but not in canvas/paint app. Now i know its the location of the rear magnet on my case. gj op
Just an fyi not sure if it has any relevance. I had 2 s pens next to each other and noticed that the silver ends kept sticking to each other. now if they only would have integrated the magnets into the body like the ipad for the covers.
flex3269 said:
Just an fyi not sure if it has any relevance. I had 2 s pens next to each other and noticed that the silver ends kept sticking to each other. now if they only would have integrated the magnets into the body like the ipad for the covers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If they put the magnets into the main body of the pen instead of the tip, it wouldn't work.
Wacom's pen technology is magnetism-based.
I just found out that the screen turns when you take the pen out lol
Sent from my GT-N8013 using Tapatalk 2
Technically, electromagnetic resonance, or radio induced power, similar to RFID. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wacom#Technology
The pen gets its power from radio waves emitted from loops of wire (on a circuit board) underneath the LCD. When it gets enough power, it transmits back an ID and pressure levels. (Not sure how tilt works.) Wacom can then determine the pen's position by doing math on the pen's signal from each of the X and Y oriented loops.
Pictured here: http://www.wacom-components.com/products/penabled/developerKits/
The magnet is in the pen top so the tablet can tell if it's inserted or not, and thus save power by suspending the Wacom system (if checked in the settings.)
If you put a strong magnet near the socket, it will turn off the Wacom system. Also, if the magnet is close enough to the pen tip, it will prevent the pen from getting power from tablet. (By inhibiting induction in the pen's 'antenna' coil.)
The magnet is in the pen so it can detect when it's in the silo or not. When you take it out, it can launch an app or bring up the side menu automatically.
My magnet is in my personality.
Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
AbeOwitz said:
Technically, electromagnetic resonance, or radio induced power, similar to RFID. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wacom#Technology
The pen gets its power from radio waves emitted from loops of wire (on a circuit board) underneath the LCD. When it gets enough power, it transmits back an ID and pressure levels. (Not sure how tilt works.) Wacom can then determine the pen's position by doing math on the pen's signal from each of the X and Y oriented loops.
Pictured here: http://www.wacom-components.com/products/penabled/developerKits/
The magnet is in the pen top so the tablet can tell if it's inserted or not, and thus save power by suspending the Wacom system (if checked in the settings.)
If you put a strong magnet near the socket, it will turn off the Wacom system. Also, if the magnet is close enough to the pen tip, it will prevent the pen from getting power from tablet. (By inhibiting induction in the pen's 'antenna' coil.)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks AbeOwitz for your explanations.
I've been wondering on how the note S-Pen could work for a couple of weeks, but never found the good/useful links until reading your post.
I think that tilt is calculated if you can read 2 points from the pen, one above the other (known distance between them), from their projection on the surface.
mdalacu said:
I think that tilt is calculated if you can read 2 points from the pen, one above the other (known distance between them), from their projection on the surface.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Very possible. They could use two transmitters/freqs and compare the two. But that would require two transmitters, which could increase cost/space.
Another option might be the transmit pattern/lobes of the pen. Think of a flashlight disk/oval pattern on a wall and how its shape changes based on the angle of the flashlight. It would loose tilt accuracy near the edges though.
hi,i was just wondering about the smartcover....
i have a smartcover paid 5$ and works not so fine because the magnetic inside is not so heavy....
so the question is:
how strong must be a magnet to always work with the screen but not so strong to make the tablet having issues with?
i have 2/3 magnets but before trying with the fear of bricking is better ask....
Pikkierello said:
hi,i was just wondering about the smartcover....
i have a smartcover paid 5$ and works not so fine because the magnetic inside is not so heavy....
so the question is:
how strong must be a magnet to always work with the screen but not so strong to make the tablet having issues with?
i have 2/3 magnets but before trying with the fear of bricking is better ask....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bricking? From magnets? LOL
Very unlikely. Highly unlikely. Super unlikely.
You get the point.
I have a case with strong magnets and I have been using it for months and my N7 is just fine. As a matter of fact, it looks like new!
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
R: [Q] magnetic power limit
I'm not a nerd and i know that electronic device and magnets are not best friends...i'm just asking....if there's no problem better for me just today a friend of mine gave me a strong magnet,more than the 3 i got
However thanks
sent from rootilapia
scream4cheese said:
Bricking? From magnets? LOL
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The OP didn't say bricking; he said "damage".
And while there is no magnetic (digital) storage media onboard, there are other components which can be damaged by strong magnets - the prime example would be coil assemblies associated with speakers and microphones (if moving coil tech is used for them). Also it is possible that surface-mount inductors could have their properties altered if they got magnetized to their saturation point. (Depends on what they are being used for).
Take a paper clip and dangle it from a thread above the screen - you will find there are two speaker coils on either side of the USB connector - the closer of the two is only about 3.8 cm from the (apparent) location of the magnetic closure sensor.
@Pikkierello
I would encourage you to use elegance over brute force. A tiny and well placed magnet is a much better idea than a large powerful magnet.
The case that I have seems to work pretty well, and based on the "paper clip and thread" method, its' magnet seems to be located at about 1.1cm from the left hand side and 4.4 cm up from the bottom edge of the N7 (oriented with the USB connector down). Also - I'm not sure if polarity matters - but fwiw, the "pole" of the magnet in my case (the side facing the N7 screen) is the N pole.
You could buy some small magnets, but I would consider the costs involved - it might be less expensive to simply buy a different case.
good luck.