Hello, I recently installed the above Android unit into my 2014 Mitsubishi EVO with Rockford system. It came with the can bus decoder MT-SS-03 for 2014 Outlander. I set everything up in the factory settings menu but I'm having a major audio problem that sadly is ruining an otherwise awesome experience.
If I listen to any music at high volume all system audio cuts out completely for 5-10 seconds at a time. I've found this problem is directly related to the volume. The louder it is, the quicker the audio will cut out. I've double and triple checked all wiring and pins, updated to the latest MCU 2.59, Android system (8-3-2017), etc.
I'm out of ideas on what to try next but hoping someone here can shine some light on the situation. Thanks in advance and looking forward to putting an end to this issue!
do you have proper canbus?
Yes I do, according to them. I did get a red one though which was labeled for 2014 Outlander which I understand to be the newer can box for 2014-2015 EVO but the pictures I've seen show a black box and mine was red but labeled as the newer one. I thought the older 2008-2013 units were red. Not sure if that makes a difference or not but I do have sound from all speakers so it works it just cuts out at high volume. However, the amplifier settings on the Android unit do respond a bit strange. The sub slider seems to change all speaker output and not the sub directly and has a pretty minimal effect. The fader seems right at least as far as the channels go.
In the meantime I did contact the seller on Amazon about the issue. They told me the issue is caused by the high power protection of the factory amplifier. To fix the issue they want me to re-install the factory radio, turn the volume sliders down to the "middle part" and then install the Android unit again. This seems a bit strange to me but it could be the factory radio interfaces with the amp in a different way and is able to control the gain of the sub and the Android unit cannot. With the newer Android unit I noticed the max volume is much louder so maybe I'm hitting some sort of over current protection causing the amp to momentarily shut down. Has anyone ever heard of this?
What I'm not sure about is when this procedure would be needed. Is it because I had the amp slider on factory unit is set too high before I removed it or is it because I disconnected the battery and the amp defaults to a higher setting that only the factory unit can adjust? It would be a real shame if every time power is cut from the amp I need to repeat the process. I fear that may be the case because I'm not sure the amp has an internal EPROM or non-volatile memory that's saving the settings and I did in fact disconnect the battery.
Either way I'll be happy to finally get to the bottom of the issue and I'm sure I'll find out whether or not I'll need to swap the radios again. Until then I'll keep the factory unit closeby. Luckily it's very easy to swap out so fingers crossed this fixes the problem. It's going to be a few days till I pull the radio out since I'm also waiting for a replacement USB harness since one of mine is inop due to a damaged wire.
Please let me know if anyone has any input about this. Thanks again.
Ditto - did you try swapping back and lowering the volume, if so, did it resolve the issue?
I have only had mine for 3 days, Dasiata HA2106-S720 with Dasaita CB003 Canbus harness in a 2013 Mitsubishi ASX with Rockford Fosgate. I would agree that the volume seems higher, so there could be some truth in the Sellers theory.
By the way my experience with Subwoofer control also matches yours - adjusting the lowest frequencies on the Graphic Equalizer seems to affect the main speakers more than the subwoofer, and I am not getting the same 'punchy' bass as the OEM Head Unit.
TSimone said:
Hello, I recently installed the above Android unit into my 2014 Mitsubishi EVO with Rockford system. It came with the can bus decoder MT-SS-03 for 2014 Outlander. I set everything up in the factory settings menu but I'm having a major audio problem that sadly is ruining an otherwise awesome experience.
If I listen to any music at high volume all system audio cuts out completely for 5-10 seconds at a time. I've found this problem is directly related to the volume. The louder it is, the quicker the audio will cut out. I've double and triple checked all wiring and pins, updated to the latest MCU 2.59, Android system (8-3-2017), etc.
I'm out of ideas on what to try next but hoping someone here can shine some light on the situation. Thanks in advance and looking forward to putting an end to this issue!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You made also the Car Settings to work well ? Things like keyless operations, windshiel wipers operation, lights time out, auto fold mirror, etc ? Thanks.
I have a new Android head unit but once I installed it I am getting no sound. Investigating the problem I found that the Amp control wire was not going high (12v) and therefore there is no sound as the amps aren't activated.
I believe this is a software problem since the Amp control pin is not completely open. Also I noticed that the sound control page is not complete as there is not any controls for balance or fade.
I do not have any tech support for this item but need to find a way to fix the software load.
The unit is a 7089C unit running Android 8.1, installed in a C6 Corvette.
Software load:
Android: YT9213A_00009_V001_20191126
XY Auto: 3.1
Gerbil
Would installing a different launcher possible solve this problem?
No, the MCU is what controls that function. An MCU update could fix the problem if it is a software issue. I don't know how you tested the control pin but short of hooking up an oscilloscope to it you can't really tell what is on it. It could be a resistive or broken solder joint that kills the output. MTC units have a setting to use factory amp maybe yours has something like that.
nic2k said:
No, the MCU is what controls that function. An MCU update could fix the problem if it is a software issue. I don't know how you tested the control pin but short of hooking up an oscilloscope to it you can't really tell what is on it. It could be a resistive or broken solder joint that kills the output. MTC units have a setting to use factory amp maybe yours has something like that.
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Click to collapse
Thank you for the response.
I just read the output of the pin with a meter. It did not read zero but did not register over 1vdc though. Because there was a little something there I assume the connections are complete in the head unit but I suppose I could be reading into the radio harness adapter unit. I have not thought of trying to see what I would see with the scope.
My next step to try is to put a 12vdc on the amp control line to see if the head unit is actually putting out sound. I am also going to see if the unit can be returned for replacement.
I've never had this happen like this before.
Hi all,
I posted this in the Joying forum but have had no success so figured I'd try my luck here too.
I just installed a Joying JY-VQ131N4GN Android 10 unit with newest firmware shipped into my '14 VW Passat with Fender Audio. Here are some of the issues I am running into and hope other people that may have experienced/solved these problems can help. I purchased the Can bus option for my vehicle and it was supposed to be plug and play.
1. Rear speaker output is very low for all output types (radio, android auto, BT audio, etc.). When fader setting is moved all the way to the rear, I get no sound at all from the rears. I don't know if this is due to the headunit or the Fender DSP located in the car's amp. I messed with the volume balance in the factory menu but I didnt notice any difference. I ordered a 12v bench tester and will test the speaker outs directly from the headunit soon.
2. The Joying supplied BT Music app/shortcut sends you to the BT phone app when used in a launcher. Sometimes it does this even when using the native launcher/UI.
3. I am unable to set custom steering wheel control buttons within the unit. It says to "hold down button to learn" or something like that but when I hit (and hold) any button it just does what the original button normally does (I am trying to change the phone button on the steering wheel to play/pause).
4. Hand brake sensor is backwards, when the handbrake is off, the headunit says it is activated and vice versa.
5. The unit won't switch from Celsius to Fahrenheit even after changing it in the setting menu. However, car launcher pro does allow switching to Fahrenheit but the top of the screen still reads Celsius regardless.
Chief Underverse said:
Hi all,
I posted this in the Joying forum but have had no success so figured I'd try my luck here too.
I just installed a Joying JY-VQ131N4GN Android 10 unit with newest firmware shipped into my '14 VW Passat with Fender Audio. Here are some of the issues I am running into and hope other people that may have experienced/solved these problems can help. I purchased the Can bus option for my vehicle and it was supposed to be plug and play.
1. Rear speaker output is very low for all output types (radio, android auto, BT audio, etc.). When fader setting is moved all the way to the rear, I get no sound at all from the rears. I don't know if this is due to the headunit or the Fender DSP located in the car's amp. I messed with the volume balance in the factory menu but I didnt notice any difference. I ordered a 12v bench tester and will test the speaker outs directly from the headunit soon.
2. The Joying supplied BT Music app/shortcut sends you to the BT phone app when used in a launcher. Sometimes it does this even when using the native launcher/UI.
3. I am unable to set custom steering wheel control buttons within the unit. It says to "hold down button to learn" or something like that but when I hit (and hold) any button it just does what the original button normally does (I am trying to change the phone button on the steering wheel to play/pause).
4. Hand brake sensor is backwards, when the handbrake is off, the headunit says it is activated and vice versa.
5. The unit won't switch from Celsius to Fahrenheit even after changing it in the setting menu. However, car launcher pro does allow switching to Fahrenheit but the top of the screen still reads Celsius regardless.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looking to get this exact head unit. Did you ever overcome these issues?
Hi.
I'm quite new in this adventure (LOL)
I have a Belsee android 10 head unit connected to my sound system in a car with DSP and aftermarket amps and speakers (Mazda 6 2017)
a couple of things annoy me and I would like to ask how can I improve the android to work better? Which app I should install it?
Also, have a problem. Sometimes it freezes and has to restart it.
When I turn on the HU the original software is frozen for a while before he kicks on! Is there a way to fix this glitch?
Also what annoys me very much is when I switch off from the android to the normal Original Mazda mod screen Aux music stop playing. Is there something to avoid this?
Also I there anything to have a volume control panel where I can see how much I'm increasing volume? My system is quite loud and I have set the volume to not go above to prevent clipping or distortion and just wanna be safe. Unfortunately, I have to switch to the original OEM from android, the music stops, and then adjust the volume to see what level I am.
Also as the original OEM use a bose amp and now is obviously replaced with aftermarket amps i can't figure out why is my radio and CD/DVD player quieter then AUX output..Anyone knows, please?
I would really appreciate it if someone can give me the best tips and apps to improve the HU.
Thank you!!!
I also have a belsee android unit (on my mazda 3) with aftermarket subs, tweeters and connected to Bose system that has both the Mazda connect & Android o/s. I have experienced similar problems as you - sometimes the original mazda system takes forever to complete it's boot-up. I did upgrade to Mazda connect firmware 74 and that DID help (system responds faster and voice commands function much better) but it has some issues sometimes with the backup camera for some reason As far as the volume issue, i've found that if i don't use steering wheel control for volume but the knob on the center console i get a visual representation of volume from both sides.
You might check to see if your Bose Co-pilot and Centerpoint are disabled. I've found this levels out the volume a little better.
Do you have problems switching between the two o/s's - ie it's easy to get back to the mazda system by touching console favorites button or using the CarUI icon but going back to Android by swiping right hand side of screen doesn't work many times??????
I've also found that sometimes the Driver (left) side of audio on AUX cuts out as if it's not there and reserved for the voice warnings that occur and doesn't come back until restarted.
Does DSP work for you? I can touch the icon for it, it won't launch for me. Also radio is only available on Mazda side and app not there on android side.
eddotykc said:
I also have a belsee android unit (on my mazda 3) with aftermarket subs, tweeters and connected to Bose system that has both the Mazda connect & Android o/s. I have experienced similar problems as you - sometimes the original mazda system takes forever to complete it's boot-up. I did upgrade to Mazda connect firmware 74 and that DID help (system responds faster and voice commands function much better) but it has some issues sometimes with the backup camera for some reason As far as the volume issue, i've found that if i don't use steering wheel control for volume but the knob on the center console i get a visual representation of volume from both sides.
You might check to see if your Bose Co-pilot and Centerpoint are disabled. I've found this levels out the volume a little better.
Do you have problems switching between the two o/s's - ie it's easy to get back to the mazda system by touching console favorites button or using the CarUI icon but going back to Android by swiping right hand side of screen doesn't work many times??????
I've also found that sometimes the Driver (left) side of audio on AUX cuts out as if it's not there and reserved for the voice warnings that occur and doesn't come back until restarted.
Does DSP work for you? I can touch the icon for it, it won't launch for me. Also radio is only available on Mazda side and app not there on android side.
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Click to collapse
Hi.Thanks for your reply. I haven't hope anyone will answer!
I would like to update the firmware but I don't know how..Also, I was reading you can jump straight from android 10 to android 12 but i don't know how to.
I have still a problem with the reversing camera sometimes..
There is absolutely poor communication with the Chinese..Their English is like hello. connect to the original radio then ok?... So what the hell that means?!!!!
Also, does the volume button piss me off? Is there a way somehow with some app to get the volume from the OEM screen to transfer to the android?
Also, I have an issue checking the android for clipping by oscilloscope..My focal tweeters sound harsh and sparkling when I increase the volume...I don't know if there has to be a balance between the volume of OEM to volume on AU|X?I ws reading somewhere someone checks the original OEM for clipping and it says there is no clipping on full volume..I have to test it..The problem is I don't know whether to check the voltage from HU before the pre amp or after..I bought an adapter from amazon which on one end is a wire to strip in and another side is RCA female output when I'm running 8 wires into the DSP Focal and then to each amp.
About DSP in android ..Do not use this..Its a crap..I tested with a scope. It's clipping like hell and producing a lot of distortion.
But my main issue is the correct voltage output from HU because if you set the voltage in DSP software on a computer wrongly you by sending to the amps digital clipping....
About the Radio in android, i have only FM which i don't know why because i purchase DAB and install it..Also the DAB is very weak..it may be because of interference from somewhere..
I have as well the problem with the left door speaker cutting of few times..
Would love to move from android 10 to 12 - have you found firmware file to do it?
I actually changed out the back-up camera for a third party model that i can choose from six different views and it works great with both the mazda connect and android.
On the distortion issue, have you checked all the wiring behind glove compartment and heat unit to make sure there isn't a wire exposed potentially causing the distortion. I had a problem on the rca going to an under-seat sub sounding like crap until i wrapped the left and right as they came out of the PAC AOEM line-out converter and ensured it ran opposite of power/ground wiring.
I’m not using PAC.you don’t have to because if you measure the output voltage from hu is only between 0.6-0.8v before the factory preamp .after that is 2.4V so I bought on Amazon just adapter which on one end plug wires and other end rca. Then they run in to the dsp. But what really make my piss of is the volume on radio which is very quiet.I try your tactics without result.I don’t know if the Bose amp increase the volume or… other things have you manage to do the big 3 upgrade?at the moment I have 155amp alternator and second battery at the back xs power 3400 .the thing is I can’t connect alternator to battery as it causing charging eloop malfunkcion.it has to be done somehow to pass the sensor but haven’t figure out test.any idea?also charging screen not ready for I start stop -battery .when I disconnect second battery then fine full ready. It’s the upgrade issue alt to battery or alt? If where can I get bigger one ?
Good Morning!
I have a 2017 Mazda 6 with Bose system and amp & just installed a Belsee android 10 with dual capability to use my factory infotainment + android. Is this the same one ya’ll have? Im also a novice when it comes to all of this so I’m working with a local car stereo shop to figure it all out. 1) We’re either of ya’ll able to plug in the center control knob? Factory system and original screen both had 4pin plugs, but Android has a proprietary plug with 4pin to plug into original infotainment system, so there are no more 4pin ports. 2) when I plug in the RCA cables I get a background static that doesn’t go away — constantly on once the system boots (and is there when I’m on the OEM and Android). Android side base volume is low and I have to crank volume way up to hear. 3) when using wireless Apple car play on Android side and making calls, the receiver gets a horrible immediate echo of their voice. Not sure of the fix for volume and echo, just thought I’d throw it out here if any of you or those on the forum have similar problems or a solution. Thanks!
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Hello stefanek33! Yes, I did buy from Belsee and have been dealing with Rambo since June troubleshooting the issue. It has been very frustrating and I’ve come to the conclusion in my novice mind that the systems are crap. You confirmed it with your professional work on it! I had to look for something because my factory screen crapped out on me — it was going to be $1500 to replace and was backordered by Mazda with unknown stock date so I went looking and found Belsee. Screen size is great but that’s about it. At this point since the factory works, I’m just going to use the thing for the 10.1” screen and get one of those car link adaptors that does the same (android apps, wireless CarPlay) but run it through the factory part and completely ignore the Belsee android (attached the install document and a picture of the split screen android/factory system). All I need to do is figure out how to plug in the center command knob and they plan will work (I think lol).
I’m interested in your suggested fix, but I’m not sure what you mean about the red wire. What is the tau? Do you have a picture example of the wire? I’m sorry — you’re dealing with a complete noob / novice to troubleshooting electronics. Happy holidays!!!
mjs8rkis said:
Hello stefanek33! Yes, I did buy from Belsee and have been dealing with Rambo since June troubleshooting the issue. It has been very frustrating and I’ve come to the conclusion in my novice mind that the systems are crap. You confirmed it with your professional work on it! I had to look for something because my factory screen crapped out on me — it was going to be $1500 to replace and was backordered by Mazda with unknown stock date so I went looking and found Belsee. Screen size is great but that’s about it. At this point since the factory works, I’m just going to use the thing for the 10.1” screen and get one of those car link adaptors that does the same (android apps, wireless CarPlay) but run it through the factory part and completely ignore the Belsee android (attached the install document and a picture of the split screen android/factory system). All I need to do is figure out how to plug in the center command knob and they plan will work (I think lol).
I’m interested in your suggested fix, but I’m not sure what you mean about the red wire. What is the tau? Do you have a picture example of the wire? I’m sorry — you’re dealing with a complete noob / novice to troubleshooting electronics. Happy holidays!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
TAU = Tuner Amplifier Unit. Google is my friend. I’m getting smarter at this by the day! Lol. It’s one thing to work through good quality products that have diagrams and such … but having to pull teeth to get back one to two liners in broken English is very frustrating. Even more so when they say these units are “plug and play” lol
you should recieve this wire ..then connect it and run the rcaback to the unit and connect it in to the AUx in..The central knob i havent got any wires i just use the factory wire from the Radio and connected to the Android ..It mus fit try...Central knob connect to the original location...I was bit strugling too as later i figure out from the Original OEM you have to dismount the metal Unit and fit the android unit on it..Of course Mr Rambo didnt provide scrwews so i have to use my one...When you instal the Android on the metal OEM part then just run the blue wire from the Android and connect to the Metal Unit and you should be okay..
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Stefanek33 said:
you should recieve this wire ..then connect it and run the rcaback to the unit and connect it in to the AUx in..The central knob i havent got any wires i just use the factory wire from the Radio and connected to the Android ..It mus fit try...Central knob connect to the original location...I was bit strugling too as later i figure out from the Original OEM you have to dismount the metal Unit and fit the android unit on it..Of course Mr Rambo didnt provide scrwews so i have to use my one...When you instal the Android on the metal OEM part then just run the blue wire from the Android and connect to the Metal Unit and you should be okay..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah yes, received that connector and ran it through to the Aux in on the Android. I have the static and the low volume and echo on Bluetooth/CarPlay calling still.
For the center control knob, I have this power/4pin connector (attached pic), and I can connect it to the factory, but then the Android blue cable that connect from Android head unit to that 4pin port won’t connect. Will I still get the factory system to show? I’ll need to extend the cable though to get it to plug into the factory since it won’t reach.
Thanks!
The blu cable has nothing to do with the central consol .blue wire from android the second end connect to the metal part of oem.
That’s right. But if I leave blue connected to the metal part of OEM, I have no other place to plug the center console plug. All Rambo told me was to unplug the blue and see what happens lol
I connect the central console back to the OEM metal bracket..I think in my one the 4 pins are positioned on the left back side..How is it look like your metal Bracket from back..Can you make some pic.?
I was able to get the center knob to work! I kept the blue 4 pin cable, but apparently in a previous install the guy helping me ran a separate 8pin cable that didn’t connect to anything, so I found the correct 8pin that is connected to the power cable and it all works. Now I just need to try and solve the echo and static issue. I think if I go the way you did and completely replace the Bose system, it would work — though might end up with the same issue you have. Happy New Year!
How is working aux for you?You have to plug the silly 3.5mm jack in to the aux slot then switch to the Aux on the OEM..When you increase the volume on aux did you hear static noise with or without starting the engine?Please let me know!Its very important!
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Stefanek33 said:
If you can please do that .Do not play any music.Just plug in and increase both volumes on max if you hear any hiss or static noise from tweeters etc...The problem is the 3.5mm jack doesn't have close circuit and I wanna find out if this is the main concern causing the issue...
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Click to collapse
So I plugged red/white RCA connector to the R/W RCA inputs on the android. I immediately began hearing static at low to zero volume. I did not have the 24 pin adapter cable even connected to the right door radio plug. I also did not have the 35mm jack in the aux slot. So I had the static then, and the after, when I plugged the adapter in and the 35mm in the aux slot, static was still there, but my volume was very low. Turning up the volume made static even worse. I heard the static both without and with the engine started.
Thought it interesting that static started immediately when plugging the RCA male to the RCA inputs on the android and didn’t even have the 24 pin adapter connected.
mjs8rkis said:
So I plugged red/white RCA connector to the R/W RCA inputs on the android. I immediately began hearing static at low to zero volume. I did not have the 24 pin adapter cable even connected to the right door radio plug. I also did not have the 35mm jack in the aux slot. So I had the static then, and the after, when I plugged the adapter in and the 35mm in the aux slot, static was still there, but my volume was very low. Turning up the volume made static even worse. I heard the static both without and with the engine started.
Thought it interesting that static started immediately when plugging the RCA male to the RCA inputs on the android and didn’t even have the 24 pin adapter connected.
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Click to collapse
Make some short video and upload on vimeo ..We have to do something with it as Rambo wasnt really honest with as.
Hey there.
I recently bought a Navpro Octacore (TS18) Android head unit from Aliexpress and I was wondering if I can set a default startup volume.
IE: If turn off the car while in volume 15 and start the car again, the volume starts at 8 (predefined).
There's no option in the sound settings section and I couldn't find any thing related entering in dev or engineering modes (123456 / 8888 / 7890+hour).
The odd thing is that I own two old Android Head Units that have this option.
Does anyone know where can I set this value?
Thanks.
lbraniak said:
Hey there.
I recently bought a Navpro Octacore (TS18) Android head unit from Aliexpress and I was wondering if I can set a default startup volume.
IE: If turn off the car while in volume 15 and start the car again, the volume starts at 8 (predefined).
There's no option in the sound settings section and I couldn't find any thing related entering in dev or engineering modes (123456 / 8888 / 7890+hour).
The odd thing is that I own two old Android Head Units that have this option.
Does anyone know where can I set this value?
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi.
I have similar TS18 unit but Topway, my unit remebers last know state of unit prior to shutdown (with sound volume remembered last used).
Problem is with this devices that they don't have any extra settings (not that I know of yet) to adjust sound volumes (also same thing is with navi app when mixing with radio or USB music - volume is too low when mixing with radio).
If this can help.... I solved my sound issues in sound menu of car settings - deactivated "inteligent" sound mixing and set "third party" software for sound control. Next, in some menu I don't remember where in car settings there is a option for keeping unit up for 10 min or more, deactivated that also (when deactivated unit instantly shuts down and saves units last state in memory/cache). Those helped me with a few problems with this unit.
Also, I updated system to the latest (connected wifi or 4G internet needed for update sytem and MCU online) - maybe it will help your system - maybe it's only a system glitch.
Hope this written will help you.
Try, play with unit.
And keep us informed if worked.