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My new head unit arrived the other day. Ordered it from AliExpress and it took less than a week to get here. I sought out a replacement because my previous Android head unit (Eonon GA5153) was having issues. It performed great for just over a year without any issues. A couple weeks ago my car battery started draining and I couldn't figure out why. It wasn't until I went to grab something out of my car at night that I realized the lights around the unit were still illuminated. Not only that but the fan was still going. I searched thread after thread and I couldn't seem to find an answer other than installing a toggle switch on the accessory wire. I found the Witson 9 inch unit for $245.00 and decided to give it a shot. After unboxing and wiring everything up I realized that the radio trim wouldn't go on because the edges were somewhat squared off in the back of the unit. It clearly isn't a perfect fit for my vehicle (2008 VW R32) but I wasn't going to let a small problem like some square edges prevent me from enjoying a new head unit...that and sending it back to China. I pulled out the old Dremel and used a sanding attachment at low speed and fixed the problem in less than 5 minutes. The unit looks great. Fits just as well as the Eonon did. The only issues Ive had thus far involve the unit not remembering certain things when its shut down. The LOUD beep that occurs with every touch has to be shut off every time I start the car. The radio starts up every time the car is started as well and doesn't save any of the pre-sets. The adjustments to the equalizer wont save either. If anyone could help me out with these issues Id greatly appreciate it! Thanks!
TicketToKickIt said:
My new head unit arrived the other day. Ordered it from AliExpress and it took less than a week to get here. I sought out a replacement because my previous Android head unit (Eonon GA5153) was having issues. It performed great for just over a year without any issues. A couple weeks ago my car battery started draining and I couldn't figure out why. It wasn't until I went to grab something out of my car at night that I realized the lights around the unit were still illuminated. Not only that but the fan was still going. I searched thread after thread and I couldn't seem to find an answer other than installing a toggle switch on the accessory wire. I found the Witson 9 inch unit for $245.00 and decided to give it a shot. After unboxing and wiring everything up I realized that the radio trim wouldn't go on because the edges were somewhat squared off in the back of the unit. It clearly isn't a perfect fit for my vehicle (2008 VW R32) but I wasn't going to let a small problem like some square edges prevent me from enjoying a new head unit...that and sending it back to China. I pulled out the old Dremel and used a sanding attachment at low speed and fixed the problem in less than 5 minutes. The unit looks great. Fits just as well as the Eonon did. The only issues Ive had thus far involve the unit not remembering certain things when its shut down. The LOUD beep that occurs with every touch has to be shut off every time I start the car. The radio starts up every time the car is started as well and doesn't save any of the pre-sets. The adjustments to the equalizer wont save either. If anyone could help me out with these issues Id greatly appreciate it! Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It seems like you have swapped red and yellow cables. Yellow should be always on +12 volt. Red is controlled via ACC, i.e. on when your starter switch
is in acc or running it supplies +12 volt. The yellow, always on, keeps the memory powered. i.e. radio stations are saved and so on.
[dormancy setting] - DORMANCY IF CUT ACC --> ON If you select a hidden setting to radio sleep after cutting off ACC,do not turn off the radio will remember your settings. It will be up to speed will execute and will not beeps when touching.
Hi guys
I'm hoping to get some help from you with deciding head unit for my Ford S-Max. I'm doing a research about it but still a bit confused.
I have few units I'm looking at,
1. Ford specific Joying - JY-FL124N2 ( Android 5.1.1 Lollipop 2GB RAM Intel SoFIA 3GR , 4 Cores )
2. Universal Joying - JY-UL135N2 ( Android 5.1.1 Lollipop 2GB RAM Intel SoFIA 3GR , 4 Cores )
3. Ford specyfic Xtrons - PF75QSFAP-S ( Android 5.1 Lollipop 64 Bit Operating System Quad Core )
4. Ford specyfic Xtrons - PCD76QSFA-S ( Android 6.0 Marshmallow quad core Cortex A7 )
5. Ford specyfic Xtrons - PF70FSFS-S ( 800MHZ Cortex A7 Processor and latest WinCE6.0 )
I'm really into buying ford specific Joying with SoFIA, i was reading about it and plenty of people suggest to buy this one and all seems good but there is one big minus of it, there is no DVD slot (which isn't a problem) the problem is with 2 NOT working buttons 'eject cd' and 'dvd' which is very annoying and taking up the space... I've asked support if there is a chance to reuse (re-programme) those buttons for something else but got no response about that.
Anyway I like the Universal Joying unit the most, one volume knob, few buttons, looks much better then ford specific ones but there is a problem with wiring, its needed to get the harness etc from other source and whats worst connect all that to be working, steering wheels controls are the most stressful for me, and need to get some dash kit for installation. So I will end up with a frame in a frame (unit itself), so it will be very visible that this is a after market unit.
.
If you have any other suggestions please dont hesitate to say.
This will be used mostly for youtube, some movies for my kids, playing music from my phone (Xperia Z3), making calls, using internet from my phone or hotspots, navigation (probably google maps as i like them the most). I also want to get the rear camera with it
Any ideas welccome, thanks!
R
What year is your S-max? For the newer ones (post 2011or so) it's hard to change the OEM unit because the airco controls are integrated.
Johan
Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-T580 met Tapatalk
JohanEe said:
What year is your S-max? For the newer ones (post 2011or so) it's hard to change the OEM unit because the airco controls are integrated.
Johan
Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-T580 met Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey Johan, thanks for asking...its 2006 Ford S-Max so its easy enough with those specific ones.
I was thinking about it and decided to use one of the specific ones, less hassle with installation and looks better, less after market. But Im not sure which one to pick, I dont have a big budget for this and would prefer to spend around € 200 on it but i dont want to be disappointed with how the unit works, i need it to work mostly with rear camera, playing music from my phone and simultaneously using navigation or playing videos in the back screens (when i finally buy them, plan for future), making calls, some youtube for kids during the trip...i just have enough of drained batteries in phones by 'wheels on the bus' songs lol
In my opinion, as a general rule you should pick up an unit with 2Gb of Ram and physical buttons.
A quad core is also recommended and to be honest I don't think that you need more then quad. There are some new units with octa but I haven't read more info and don't know if they worth the trouble.
Also I would pick a Ford specific unit because it fits perfectly in the dash compared to a standard 2DIN with various adapters that are not always up to standard most of the time.
Sofia looks like a good option, I am also interested in one... I began to read about it... I need to replace my 2 year old 3066 (KYD) unit.
I am mostly seeking it's instant on feature since I got tired of waiting for 30-40 seconds for my unit to boot each time I start my car.
Also I am not sure that you should opt for a CD unit since most don't use CD's anymore.... but that's up to you.
From my experience these aftermarket silver units are a different shade (brighter) of silver compared to the silver dash Ford elements.
nouserr said:
Hi guys
I'm hoping to get some help from you with deciding head unit for my Ford S-Max. I'm doing a research about it but still a bit confused.
I have few units I'm looking at,
1. Ford specific Joying - JY-FL124N2 ( Android 5.1.1 Lollipop 2GB RAM Intel SoFIA 3GR , 4 Cores )
2. Universal Joying - JY-UL135N2 ( Android 5.1.1 Lollipop 2GB RAM Intel SoFIA 3GR , 4 Cores )
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
edit said:
In my opinion, as a general rule you should pick up an unit with 2Gb of Ram and physical buttons.
A quad core is also recommended and to be honest I don't think that you need more then quad. There are some new units with octa but I haven't read more info and don't know if they worth the trouble.
Also I would pick a Ford specific unit because it fits perfectly in the dash compared to a standard 2DIN with various adapters that are not always up to standard most of the time.
Sofia looks like a good option, I am also interested in one... I began to read about it... I need to replace my 2 year old 3066 (KYD) unit.
I am mostly seeking it's instant on feature since I got tired of waiting for 30-40 seconds for my unit to boot each time I start my car.
Also I am not sure that you should opt for a CD unit since most don't use CD's anymore.... but that's up to you.
From my experience these aftermarket silver units are a different shade (brighter) of silver compared to the silver dash Ford elements.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey
Thanks for spending time to reply.
Yes i also decided to go with a Ford specific, i know the shade might be different but it will still look better then universal unit with frames...The only thing that is annoying is those 2 not working buttons...
It would be good enough if we can programme them but probably those are just blank covers without a button.
nouserr said:
Hey
Thanks for spending time to reply.
Yes i also decided to go with a Ford specific, i know the shade might be different but it will still look better then universal unit with frames...The only thing that is annoying is those 2 not working buttons...
It would be good enough if we can programme them but probably those are just blank covers without a button.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad I could help, I have a Mondeo (oval shape headunit unit) myself and exchanged quite a lot of headunits, I had 2 x 2DIN units and 2 x Ford specific ones. With the 2 DIN I had a hard tine finding adapters that fit perfectly but never got one with the right shade of silver or the perfect shape to accommodate the dash and the 2DIN unit... So I gave up on 2DIN units based on the adapters headache and overall look.
I mentioned that thing about the silver shade because you don't have this problem if you buy it black
Some people are bothered if it's not the same shade.
Yes, those 2 dummy buttons annoys me as well but there's nothing we can do... Overall the buttons layout is not for my liking. I would have preferred the standard android buttons on one side (back, home...) and multimedia buttons on the other side (play, stop...). But they tried really hard to cut the costs this time using old parts and completely cutting out the CD/DVD unit. For me the CD/DVD is useless because with all the streaming services I haven't touched an CD in the last 3 years. The DVD player in the car is also useless for me... when I drive I need waze/gmaps/igo/here and PlayerPro/XiiaLive Pro.
The Sofia unit needs a little modding from what I have read... you definitely need to stop the killing app service, install Viper4Android because the 3 band default EQ is really poor in general... and probably many more... still reading on the problems the unit has and the workarounds.
One thing I can say for sure.. if it weren't for the XDA forum and all these great people I would never consider buying an Chinese unit because out of the box it's pretty poor software wise.
nouserr said:
I'm really into buying ford specific Joying with SoFIA, i was reading about it and plenty of people suggest to buy this one and all seems good but there is one big minus of it, there is no DVD slot (which isn't a problem) the problem is with 2 NOT working buttons 'eject cd' and 'dvd' which is very annoying and taking up the space... I've asked support if there is a chance to reuse (re-programme) those buttons for something else but got no response about that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi all.
I've recently bought the Joying EU-JY-FL121N2 model, so it fits for a bit newer Modeo/S-max/Focus. In my model there is a dvd slot but it's blanked (not as in the pictures of the hu on the Joying website). The most important thing for you may be the fact that the 'dvd' and 'eject' buttons do work, they just don't do nothing on default. With the
Joying 2GB - Steering wheel key customization - V4 (NO KILL)
mod I am able to use them. I can't be 100% sure that there is the same situation with the other models but I suppose that in fact it is.
[email protected] said:
Hi all.
I've recently bought the Joying EU-JY-FL121N2 model, so it fits for a bit newer Modeo/S-max/Focus. In my model there is a dvd slot but it's blanked (not as in the pictures of the hu on the Joying website). The most important thing for you may be the fact that the 'dvd' and 'eject' buttons do work, they just don't do nothing on default. With the
Joying 2GB - Steering wheel key customization - V4 (NO KILL)
mod I am able to use them. I can't be 100% sure that there is the same situation with the other models but I suppose that in fact it is.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you please take a picture of your unit and show us how it looks... the pictures from the website are old renderings that had the CD slot removed in Photoshop. I would like to see a real picture if possible.
Let me get straight you managed to remap those buttons to do something else with the help of the mod "Joying 2GB - Steering wheel key customization - V4 (NO KILL)"?
Thank you !
edit said:
Can you please take a picture of your unit and show us how it looks... the pictures from the website are old renderings that had the CD slot removed in Photoshop. I would like to see a real picture if possible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here you go. The whole unit first:
drive.google.com/open?id=0B7ILN8lhPUkFLWxMcVdyNDZQUGM
And now the picture of the "dvd slot". I shot it with flash so you can see there is no hole:
drive.google.com/open?id=0B7ILN8lhPUkFYXFCNEQxbGZyckk
Let me get straight you managed to remap those buttons to do something else with the help of the mod "Joying 2GB - Steering wheel key customization - V4 (NO KILL)"?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is exactly what I did. In my unit I've got the following codes:
31 - DVD button
32 - EJECT button
33 - MEDIA button
34 - RADIO button
[email protected] said:
Here you go. The whole unit first:
drive.google.com/open?id=0B7ILN8lhPUkFLWxMcVdyNDZQUGM
And now the picture of the "dvd slot". I shot it with flash so you can see there is no hole:
drive.google.com/open?id=0B7ILN8lhPUkFYXFCNEQxbGZyckk
That is exactly what I did. In my unit I've got the following codes:
31 - DVD button
32 - EJECT button
33 - MEDIA button
34 - RADIO button
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you VERY much for the feedback. The pictures are great. They differ a lot from what they posted ... Surprise! the DVD slot is still there... only that is blocked... hmm.....
I pictured that they at least get rid of the slot and the side lights (that I presume that they still lit the fake cd slot)... kinda sloppy decision.... eh... whatever....
The unit looks good... I am definately getting one.
1. Since I have an Mondeo and I will be getting the exact same unit I gotta ask if everything went fine as for some units there are problems with steering wheel buttons (vol up and down, next, prev) especially the M button in the middle (you can't configure it to do anything)? Do they work ok?
2. Did you encounter problems at start (the unit start command, power on, is sent through CAN and actually interpreted and enable by the chinese CAN decoder) ?
3. Does the instant power on feature works ok?
4. The unit hardware buttons backlight colour match the car dashboard?
5. Is the screen bright enough?
6. At night does it dimm enough or do you need to use some software to dimm it even more? (like I feed the need on my unit, if I turn down the brightness even if it goes prett down I still feel the need to make my screen even darker for those white background apps like Google Play Music)
Thank you !
edit said:
1. Since I have an Mondeo and I will be getting the exact same unit I gotta ask if everything went fine as for some units there are problems with steering wheel buttons (vol up and down, next, prev) especially the M button in the middle (you can't configure it to do anything)? Do they work ok?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was able to get the steering wheel buttons work. I only use those on the left side, but all of them work: vol up/down, next/prev and the 'M' button. In my case the wheel buttons work with connecting 'KEY2' wire - sorry but I don't remember details right know - it is described in the manual from Joying (which is included with the HU). At start after cutting some wire I connected it from the wrong side with the KEY2 one, but then I've noticed a youtube clip
youtube.com/watch?v=QaJqWy9Tk24
and did the same way, but I had to stay with the canbus decoder connected (the only difference from the method shown above).
2. Did you encounter problems at start (the unit start command, power on, is sent through CAN and actually interpreted and enable by the chinese CAN decoder) ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't quite understand what you've wrote in brackets - I haven't noticed any weird behaviour with starting the unit.
3. Does the instant power on feature works ok?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, it does actually. I don't know much about the battery drain - I've got the unit for a week only. But I've seen somewhere in the forum statistics of the processor activity during the night and it was almost 100% deep sleep so I'm hoping it's ok.
4. The unit hardware buttons backlight colour match the car dashboard?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Essentially, yes. In more details: I've set up the red colour (the option of changing colour is visible only with car's lights on - not that much obvious to me) and in the daylight it looks a bit pale - you can see it on the pictures I gave. But when it's dark they look very nice to me - the same or almost the same colour as on the dashboard.
5. Is the screen bright enough?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We haven't had many sunny days during the last week, so I may only say - I can see what's on the screen, but I don't think I'm going to use it to watch movies - radio, music, bluetooth, maps - for now it's all I need.
6. At night does it dimm enough or do you need to use some software to dimm it even more? (like I feed the need on my unit, if I turn down the brightness even if it goes prett down I still feel the need to make my screen even darker for those white background apps like Google Play Music)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can't tell anything about that to be honest, this is to check yet. I'm not very sure but I think that the 28 march update brought some more options for backlight of the screen (but it may have been there before also).
I ordered it just now, hope it goes well !
Thank you for all the feedback !
---------- Post added at 12:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:09 PM ----------
[email protected];71748303
Yes said:
Did it start instantly each day or there were days when it booted slowly?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
edit said:
Did it start instantly each day or there were days when it booted slowly?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I didn't notice the last question, so maybe the answer is for other people right now - I haven't got any cold boot yet.
Sent from my D5803 using XDA-Developers Legacy app
[email protected] said:
I didn't notice the last question, so maybe the answer is for other people right now - I haven't got any cold boot yet.
Sent from my D5803 using XDA-Developers Legacy app
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is nice to know... I am hoping that my unit will be here in the next 2-3 days... and then it's mod time... lots of work
Have you hard moded yours to add additional cooling to the unit (heatsinks or fans) or did you let it stock? Have you noticed cpu throttling ? Have you checked the CPU temp? (not sure how users checked it out, probably with an app)
Don't know if I will mod my unit, I am not ready to give up the warranty from day 1.
edit said:
Have you hard moded yours to add additional cooling to the unit (heatsinks or fans) or did you let it stock? Have you noticed cpu throttling ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
AFAIK people here have got some throttling during cpu stress (some benchmarks I think) - I use the unit for listening to the radio, music, phone calls and navigation, for now at least. I don't think those actions will stress the hu at all or maybe in some small amount - I hope so at least...
Have you checked the CPU temp? (not sure how users checked it out, probably with an app)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't done this with the unit, but in my phone I've used cpuz. I think there are plenty of such kind of apps in Play store which even don't need root.
Don't know if I will mod my unit, I am not ready to give up the warranty from day 1.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right now I'm not ready to do any hardware mod and surely I don't feel I need one.
[email protected] said:
AFAIK people here have got some throttling during cpu stress (some benchmarks I think) - I use the unit for listening to the radio, music, phone calls and navigation, for now at least. I don't think those actions will stress the hu at all or maybe in some small amount - I hope so at least...
I haven't done this with the unit, but in my phone I've used cpuz. I think there are plenty of such kind of apps in Play store which even don't need root.
Right now I'm not ready to do any hardware mod and surely I don't feel I need one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is your CAN bus settings? I am really struggling with my CAN bus. My S-Max headlights are blinking when parked. I would love to know what settings you are using.
Iscariot76 said:
What is your CAN bus settings? I am really struggling with my CAN bus. My S-Max headlights are blinking when parked. I would love to know what settings you are using.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What kind of headlights do you have? In my car there are h1/h7 bulbs and I can't see any kind of blinking.
I managed to solve my issue by cutting the wire on the alarm sensor pin in the plug between my car and HU.
Hi,
There's an issue that has been mildly bugging me since I have had my Android Head Unit. Just wondering if I'm the only one or if this is a known issue.
Sometime when starting the car and the Head Unit powers up, the bluetooth and Wifi radios are not working. My phone cannot connect via bluetooth and the Wifi activation slider in the Wifi Setting menu will not move to the "activated" position.
Usually, a full system restart fixes the issue but I've had occurence where a second reboot in a row is necessary!
This has been going since I have had the unit. I didn't stay on stock ROM for long as I moved to Malaysk first and now using Hal9k ROM. Both ROMs exhibit the same issue. Point is I don't know if the stock ROM had this issue.
Head Unit is equipped with a MD725 version 1 radio module.
Does somebody have a workaround (other than rebooting)?
Thanks!
EDIT: Please check this post for a detailed explanation of the cause of the problem, the resolution process and finally provides fixes for it.
psyko_chewbacca said:
Hi,
There's an issue that has been mildly bugging me since I have had my Android Head Unit. Just wondering if I'm the only one or if this is a known issue.
Sometime when starting the car and the Head Unit powers up, the bluetooth and Wifi radios are not working. My phone cannot connect via bluetooth and the Wifi activation slider in the Wifi Setting menu will not move to the "activated" position.
Usually, a full system restart fixes the issue but I've had occurence where a second reboot in a row is necessary!
This has been going since I have had the unit. I didn't stay on stock ROM for long as I moved to Malaysk first and now using Hal9k ROM. Both ROMs exhibit the same issue. Point is I don't know if the stock ROM had this issue.
Head Unit is equipped with a MD725 version 1 radio module.
Does somebody have a workaround (other than rebooting)?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How disappointing to see that no one has replied. I purchased a Seicane unit from an Amazon seller two weeks ago, and among the things I noticed immediately was the frequent, seemingly random WIFI/BT disconnect. As you described, it happens when waking up. Either pressing the reset button or holding the power button for >5 seconds has returned their functionality every time (so far). But, in corresponding with Seicane, they act like it's the first time they've heard of it. They want to replace the WIFI module. But, I'm sure that'll take weeks, and by the time it gets here, I'm outside the return window with Amazon.
I'm fully stock, and I really like the fit and finish in my Tundra.
Can I thread-jack and ask you some questions to see if you have other issues like me?
- Google account sync is missing calendar (and chrome too, for that matter). That means any calendar app (stock or 3rd party) cannot access events. Do you see calendar under settings/accounts/google/sync?
- Side-loading apks is a no-go. Whether I use file manager, or the default "Apk-installer", when I try to install an APK (even OEM legit ones on the internal memory), I get a momentary flash of "package install.." then right back to the file list. Seicane doesn't seem to understand the issue, even after I sent them a video of how it's behaving.
- Fader is not working. I do have left/right, but when I move fader to rear, everything goes quiet. It seems front and rear are combined, because full front has sound coming from all speakers. That's not a deal breaker since I generally listen to podcasts, and not music.
Just knowing there's someone else out there with similar issue(s) is comforting.
Seicane = Bad Customer Service, No Support after they have your money
I purchased a Seicane Nav/Radio Unit back in June 2018, and from day 1 the Parrot Bluetooth module I paid extra for has never worked. Did everything recommended, used their BT apk, tried setting up via Phone apk, changed name of BT module, change passcode to 0000, 1234, 01234, but it never saw my BT enable Phone or Tablet that was within 2 foot of the Head Unit, nor did my phone or tablet ever see the Head Unit.
I have been going back and forth with Seicane, and after 3 months got them to send me a replacement BT Module. They shipped me an unmarked module that does not even look like its Bluetooth other than the 10 pins at the bottom of it for mounting. Oh, no instructions, no explanations, nor did they tell me the Head Unit needed to be COMPLETELY disassembled to get at the existing BT module. Once opened it was apparent that the module was soldered in requiring de-soldering of the old, and soldering in the new. Problem was while inspecting how to do this I found 3 SMD resistors on the main board that were damaged during manufacturing, so now I know why the BT never worked! I assume they knew it also, and that is why they sent me the replacement module knowing that if I opened the case, the factory warrantee was then void. So now they want me to spend $60 to ship the Head Unit back to them in China, and of course, they will void the warrantee and change me $60 to get it back.......NEVER AGAIN WITH SEICANE.................
Seicane:
CPU: 8 core 64-bit CPU Coretex-A53 @ 1.5G
Memory: 3891
Kernel Version: 4.4.93+ [email protected] #263 Wed May 9 09:36:56 CST 2018
Build Number: px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007 end.hct.20180515.095719 test-keys
MCU Version: MTCE_KLD_V2.80_1 Mar 1 2018 16:54:22
Model: px5(800x480)
Android version: 8.0.0
Android security patch level: October 5, 2017
I have similar problems, i thought that only the "XRC" units (MTCE_XRC_...) ones had the problem with WiFi and Bluetooth not working sometimes when you start.
From what i saw, a restart sometimes fixes it.
Somebody said that entering into recovery and then restarting seems to always fix the issue, but it's still annoying.
Until somebody finds a "real" solution, we're stuck with restarting the unit if the WiFi/BT doesn't work.
You could try using an USB adapter for the WiFi and Bluetooth, the ones i had (for my PC) didn't work, probably we need something designed for Android.
P.S. the problem is not from custom ROMs, it does the same with the ROM that it came with.
Well, that's not very promising. I initiated the refund/return process for mine with Amazon. I have about 10 days left before the return window closes. So glad I bought from AZ vs. AliExpress or directly from Seicane.
There's another seller of the PX5 (Hizpo) that is custom fit to my Tundra, but uses the button-less trim. I'm hoping that it doesn't have this issue.
On an aside, I figured out why my APKs wouldn't side-load. Under settings/car/factory defaults/other is a setting called "install apps" which was set to disabled. Switching it to enabled allowed me to install all my favorite 'patched' apks. Unfortunately, the intermittent wifi/BT is a deal breaker. I'm hoping Seicane can come up with a fix/workaround suggestion in the coming days - else, this one is getting picked up by the big brown truck.
verszipo said:
I have similar problems, i thought that only the "XRC" units (MTCE_XRC_...) ones had the problem with WiFi and Bluetooth not working sometimes when you start.
From what i saw, a restart sometimes fixes it.
Somebody said that entering into recovery and then restarting seems to always fix the issue, but it's still annoying.
Until somebody finds a "real" solution, we're stuck with restarting the unit if the WiFi/BT doesn't work.
You could try using an USB adapter for the WiFi and Bluetooth, the ones i had (for my PC) didn't work, probably we need something designed for Android.
P.S. the problem is not from custom ROMs, it does the same with the ROM that it came with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, if I can't find a satisfactory solution, my backup plan is to mount a USB hub behind the radio and use a USB Wifi/BT adapter.
From what I read, the Comfast WU725B is compatible with the android headunit. It's probably the same chipset that is used on the internal MD725 module of the head unit!
psyko_chewbacca said:
Yeah, if I can't find a satisfactory solution, my backup plan is to mount a USB hub behind the radio and use a USB Wifi/BT adapter.
From what I read, the Comfast WU725B is compatible with the android headunit. It's probably the same chipset that is used on the internal MD725 module of the head unit!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've got that Hizpo arriving on Wed. If it has the same issue running stock (as the Seicane XRC) does, then I'll be happy to give the WU725B adapter a go. I just wonder why there aren't more people complaining about this phenomenon given the popularity of the PX5 systems.
psyko_chewbacca said:
Yeah, if I can't find a satisfactory solution, my backup plan is to mount a USB hub behind the radio and use a USB Wifi/BT adapter.
From what I read, the Comfast WU725B is compatible with the android headunit. It's probably the same chipset that is used on the internal MD725 module of the head unit!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd be interested to know if this works. I found a thread where others have done that to fix BT call issues. Apparently it's not just plug and play in most cases.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...ons-development/bluetooth-usb-dongle-t3684383
Same unit, different issues...
Hazard15301 said:
I'd be interested to know if this works. I found a thread where others have done that to fix BT call issues. Apparently it's not just plug and play in most cases.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...ons-development/bluetooth-usb-dongle-t3684383
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
I think I have the same unit - I too had issues with Bluetooth, but after a factory reset it seemed to behave itself. The only downside is the hardware buttons on the facia (its a merc slk 200 type facia) are now not working! navi, setup, BT, 1-6, power etc all not responding. I'm a bit of a newb when it comes to the hardware side of these android head units - am I missing some sort of interface APK that helps the hardware buttons talk to the android OS?
Sorry for thread jacking, but I'm starting to get a bad feeling - I purchased from seicane direclty and so far, the support feels like one guy doing it after he gats back from the factory...
For ref I took some pics and a video of the issue - any hints?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WRrc69Qr3CpFaTq7A
I believe it MTCE_MX2_V2.94_1 on 8 core 64-bit coretex-A53 @ 1.5Ghz
px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007
xboson said:
Hi,
I think I have the same unit - I too had issues with Bluetooth, but after a factory reset it seemed to behave itself. The only downside is the hardware buttons on the facia (its a merc slk 200 type facia) are now not working! navi, setup, BT, 1-6, power etc all not responding. I'm a bit of a newb when it comes to the hardware side of these android head units - am I missing some sort of interface APK that helps the hardware buttons talk to the android OS?
Sorry for thread jacking, but I'm starting to get a bad feeling - I purchased from seicane direclty and so far, the support feels like one guy doing it after he gats back from the factory...
For ref I took some pics and a video of the issue - any hints?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WRrc69Qr3CpFaTq7A
I believe it MTCE_MX2_V2.94_1 on 8 core 64-bit coretex-A53 @ 1.5Ghz
px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need to go into the Factory Settings menu, under the Panel Key Study header and manually set all your physical buttons
Hazard15301 said:
You need to go into the Factory Settings menu, under the Panel Key Study header and manually set all your physical buttons
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
Yep - tried that - a couple of times (factory settings code 126) - tried reset and panel key study - nothing appears on screen. Tried waiting a minute or two but no dice. I'll try again just to be sure and report back.
---------- Post added at 10:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:52 PM ----------
xboson said:
Hi,
Yep - tried that - a couple of times (factory settings code 126) - tried reset and panel key study - nothing appears on screen. Tried waiting a minute or two but no dice. I'll try again just to be sure and report back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep - so just tried that page again - waitied about a minute and a half - nothing showed up - blank page & no response to any hardware buttons on the facia - the canbus based steering wheel answer, hangup and volume controls work as expected. So it should just detect the hardware buttons no issue? No special apk needed?
erkme73 said:
I've got that Hizpo arriving on Wed. If it has the same issue running stock (as the Seicane XRC) does, then I'll be happy to give the WU725B adapter a go. I just wonder why there aren't more people complaining about this phenomenon given the popularity of the PX5 systems.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The new hizpo unit worked GREAT! No dropouts. Well, at least not for the first 10 min... After that the screen went dark. Resetting and power-cycling made it beep and the buttons illuminated green for about 2 seconds... But that was it.
I did an exchange through Amazon and the replacement arrived today. On power up, no wifi or BT. ARG. I did a power-cycle, and both came back. I went to vehicle several more times during they day/evening, and despite cold booting, wifi resumed each time. Fingers crossed, but I'm guessing it will disappoint me soon.
I sent a message to the seller asking for stock MCU and firmware images, but I'm sure that will be met with crickets.
Will update if anything changes.
That didn't take long. Got in truck this am to find no wifi. Took FOUR resets for it to finally wake the wifi/bt. Really frustrating. Took a video and sent it to the Amazon seller (JBY TECH) asking what I need to do to get a functioning unit. If I do another exchange it'll be the third unit. This sucks.
Wish I could get a non-XRC unit that fits my Sequoia.
Growing more frustrated and impatient by the day, I opted to remove the back of the radio (which leaves the factory warranty seal intact) to get a better view of the wifi/bt components. The thing is tiny - smaller than a postage stamp. It appears to be soldered directly to the main board at 8 points - though the ones on the left are hard to identify due to the hot-glue applied to the antenna wire connection point. These points are not surface-mount sized. A steady hand with a standard iron should be able to comfortably resolder these connections. I would attempt it if out of warranty and all other options have been exhausted.
I did push down on each joint before re-assembling the unit. After several power-cycles, WIFI/BT remain on. The acid test will be in the AM. I am reluctant to even post this now, as I don't want to jinx it. I will post updates as they happen.
erkme73 said:
Growing more frustrated and impatient by the day, I opted to remove the back of the radio (which leaves the factory warranty seal intact) to get a better view of the wifi/bt components. The thing is tiny - smaller than a postage stamp. It appears to be soldered directly to the main board at 8 points - though the ones on the left are hard to identify due to the hot-glue applied to the antenna wire connection point. These points are not surface-mount sized. A steady hand with a standard iron should be able to comfortably resolder these connections. I would attempt it if out of warranty and all other options have been exhausted.
I did push down on each joint before re-assembling the unit. After several power-cycles, WIFI/BT remain on. The acid test will be in the AM. I am reluctant to even post this now, as I don't want to jinx it. I will post updates as they happen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The seller of my radio thinks I have a bad chip as well. He's sending me a new chip, should be here monday. So I'll be doing this exact procedure when it gets here. I think someone else said there's ten total solder points, and two are real close together and very easy to short together.
I was wondering why it is that wifi and bt will remain functional across short term sleep cycles, but only seems to act up when left in sleep overnight (at least that's how it works in my case). Not sure if that points to a software or hardware issue.
Hazard15301 said:
The seller of my radio thinks I have a bad chip as well. He's sending me a new chip, should be here monday. So I'll be doing this exact procedure when it gets here. I think someone else said there's ten total solder points, and two are real close together and very easy to short together.
I was wondering why it is that wifi and bt will remain functional across short term sleep cycles, but only seems to act up when left in sleep overnight (at least that's how it works in my case). Not sure if that points to a software or hardware issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm no engineer, but if I unplug all wires from the back of the radio and leave it de-energized for an hour, I would think that any residual electrons would be gone - or at least comparable to an overnight connected shut down. The fact that it still works after that hour makes me think it's hardware.
The one variable that changes overnight is temperature. The unit cools down completely overnight, and by morning the symptoms return. I suppose I could take the radio and put it in the freezer/refrigerator for a few hours and see if recurs.
If it is temp, that would lend credence to poor electrical connections - with the most likely suspect being the hand-soldered points (not the SM-ed board components). Admittedly, it's a stretch.
If your seller has OK'ed the replacement of your board, if I were you, I'd practice with the old one and re-solder those 8-10 points.
I recall reading posts elsewhere stating that keeping pressure on that board resolved the issue (one guy wrote about using tape!).
I just received word from the seller that they suspect the "core board" to be the problem. They want me to open the case and unplug/replug it to see if that resolves it. I've attached their photo. If it does not solve the problem, they suggest replacing it, and they provided a link to the latest XRC firmware (XRC8.0_20180510). I'm downloading it now.
Looks like when daylight comes, I'll be doing some vendor-approved dissection...
New daylight, and with permission to disassemble, I managed to get a better picture of the wifi/bt module. Unless there are pins underneath the board, it really looks like 8 connections.
I removed the 'core board' and replaced it. No wifi/bt. After third power-cycle it came up.
I really think this is temperature-related. By the 2nd or 3rd reboot, the electronics have warmed up and it starts working. Now I have to wait until it gets back to ambient temp to do more testing. To prove this theory, I've placed it in my freezer. I'll give this a go in about 30 min. If it stop working again, I think that would be pretty conclusive. Will update as I proceed.
After leaving the unit in the freezer for 30 minutes, the wifi/bt once again stopped responding. In fact, it stayed off for about 5-10 minutes (regardless of the number of power-cycles/resets). I even held down on the wifi chip and it made no difference. Only after it had completely thawed out and warmed up did it re-enable.
I'm going to relay this back to the seller. FWIW, since they provided me with a factory rom and MCU image, I took this chance to install the Hal9k rom. WOW is that worth it...
erkme73 said:
I just received word from the seller that they suspect the "core board" to be the problem. They want me to open the case and unplug/replug it to see if that resolves it. I've attached their photo. If it does not solve the problem, they suggest replacing it, and they provided a link to the latest XRC firmware (XRC8.0_20180510). I'm downloading it now.
Looks like when daylight comes, I'll be doing some vendor-approved dissection...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you upload the MCU update image?
Interesting stuff about the temperature. Quite frankly I had this ruled out since rebooting through recovery fixes the issue 100% of the time while normal reboots only works sporadically. I was under the impression that the issue was related to the MCU or some other component not waking up the device from sleep when unit wakes up.
Hi everyone,
first of all, my apologizes in advance for duplicating the thread, but I've got the feeling that the original HERE is not in the right place, and therefore I've got 0 comments since open.
Therefore, I transcribe the problem here.
After buying an android head unit for the Fabia mk3 from my wife and testing it at my workshop, I got mad because the front panel buttons were not working. I was almost giving up when I decided to install the radio anyway just to profit from the navigation by forcing us to use it only by the touchscreen, when I found out that the front panel buttons get activated only when the head unit receives the can-bus signals.
However, some days after the installation and the happiness of solving the issue, big surprise when we found the car with the battery dead. o after bringing it back to life, I removed the android radio and checked the current drainage. It was around 300mA for the car switched off. Too much for a car that is parked so long due to the COVID-19 quarantine.
After asking Google, I found out that in the new VAGs, included the Fabia mk3, there is no longer a "switched-off" power cable arriving to the radio. Only an "always-on" one. It seems that the original radio is being switched off by the can-bus signal, bringing the current drainage to a minimum. What is this minimum, I do not know as I haven't measured it.
This doesn't seem to be the case with my android radio which is sucking 300mA when turned off by the can-bus.
So I looked for a "switched-off" signal from the fuse panel and I brought it all the way up to the radio to force the total current shut-off when switching off the car.
Happy with the solution, my wife takes the car again some days after and and told me that the radio was not starting. I went to check it and I found the unit getting blocked at the "android" starting screen.
Sometimes it ends up just blocked there. Sometimes shows an alternating picture between the word "android" and a kind of arrow picture. I share here a couple of screenshots and a small video.
I've tried the reset button, even with the 15 seconds wait, and nothing happens, I get the same blocked starting screen...
Any ideas what can this be? It looks pretty damn bricked to me but I refuse to give up with the radio, it looked very well installed in the car and I was able to "taste" the capabilities right before the battery drainage and it was even sounding better than the ****ty original radio.
Here the head-unit specs:
Android 9.0 System
Capacitive Screen HD 1024*600 1080P HD Video
CPU Rockchip PX3 Cortex A9, 4 core 1.6GHz
2GB DDR3 RAM Memory
16 GB Nand Flash
During a recent sale at AliExpress, I ordered an Android headunit that replaces the factory screen for my 2016 B8.5 Audi. I ordered from the "Nunoo" store due to them listing a Snapdragon 665, and I ordered the supposed 8 GB/128 GB model for my MMI car.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805118631091.html
The unit hasn't shipped, so I messaged the store asking what's up and making sure that the order was going to fit my particular car (needed an Air Bag light relocation cable and AMI cable). I also asked to confirm it actually had the Qualcomm chip. The seller messaged me back saying that it would instead ship with a 8581 processor due to issues with the 665:
"The cpu will become 8581, because 665 CPU with some problem"
I'm getting sketchy vibes. Is there any hope that these units are worth messing with? Since ordering this, I've done some more reading around and see where Chinese sourced units often mis-report hardware, versions of OS's, etc.
I'm currently running an android box that attaches to the stock, non-touch screen in the car and allows for wireless Android Auto. It connects to Canbus and the MMI audio system, and is generally OK. It just has no touch screen, so I thought I'd upgrade. Should I bail on this order before they try to ship and look around for another seller?
Is there a Android head unit issues for dummies I should read to catch up on the state of these things?
Heya, the Listing only mentions an 8 Core Processor in the Pictures itself. It mentions the Snapdragon 665 Version down below but that is not selectable. I only know that because I myself just ordered one of those for my A6 4F MMI 2G. I had to search a bit for that Version. Just click a few different Listings on Aliexpress if you want that version.
I myself used an Android Head Unit in my Older A6 4B with a generic 8 Core CPU and that was more than enough Performance. it never had any lags or other things.
My Unit used an UIS7862, the 8581 seems to be a less powerful version of it. It could be Powerful enough to work without Lags but if you want to be really sure maybe search for reports of Headunits with the Spreadtrum UIS8581 CPU or try finding the Snapdragon 665 Version but be prepared that it's gonna be a whole lot more costly. And don't settle for the 625 Version, that is a pretty old CPU and all I could ever find about those Versions where lackluster performance and other issues
My unit finally shipped, so we'll see what I get.
Sweet, please report about that CPU Version Performance and stuff
It's sadly quite hard to find any Information about the Nunoo Headunits.
I'll try to keep this updated about the 665 Version that I just bought too
Well..... don't keep us in suspense.
Report back because i'm looking to buy a Nunoo 665 as well.
Sure, I put it in a couple of weeks ago. I did receive the 8581 chip version.
Some notes on use:
Install went about as expected, with the exception that to mount the included dash bezel that the screen attaches to over the old hole, you can only access two screws on the new mounting plate instead of 3...unless you want to drill into your original dash to pass the third screw. I doubt I do that as I want it to be reversable.
I did have problems with an ABS light. My car has the combo hazard button and passenger seat Air Bag light (to show if passenger AB is disabled due to not having enough weight in the seat). Once confirmed the wiring hookup configuration for the hazard button relocation harness, I was a bit frustrated that the light was still on. It might have eventually cleared itself after a few ignition cycles, but I really wanted to figure it out so I used my OBDEleven OBD2 scanner to reset the code (ABS ground fault). No problems since.
I haven't 100% put the dash back together yet because I'm going to try a GPS splitter cable to tie into the stock antenna instead of using the included one. I tried the included one with a GPS testing app and could never get acceptable signal strength vs what I could get on my phone, even if I ran the included receiver all the way to the top of the windshield. This probably is irrelevant as it doesn't affect Android Auto/CarPlay, which rely on the phone GPS. I'm just curious about the built in navigation and it wasn't a bunch to spend to try out. Once that comes in, I'll put the main dash bezel back in the car. If it doesn't work, that's not a deal breaker. Was just curious if I could improve things. If it does work, I don't know why this wouldn't really be the included option vs a whole receiver. (BTW, if anybody else goes this route, get the right angle SMA connector. The straight one won't fit in the space available.) https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256...st_main.5.1c3518024jcmmd&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
Wireless connection is iffy at times. Sometimes it's great, sometimes I can watch the bluetooth connect on my phone then try to hand off to wifi for Android Auto and it will just cycle the wifi connection to the head unit over and over. Other times it works right away and stay stable. Can't figure out if there's something that can resolve this. Still playing around. Wired Android Auto is fine. According to the seller, I have the latest software and Zlink versions. Is there a way to update Zlink OTA if a new version becomes available? I can go into the settings and check and it says I'm up to date, but just wonder if that's possible in the future. I've not done a ton of research, but what I have says Zlink licensing might be weird. This inconsistency is my biggest annoyance with the unit.
Unlike my old unit that just tapped into the factory screen, I can't long press the steering wheel phone button to activate the assistant. That's annoying. Have to do verbal commands only or use the touch screen button. Not the end of the world, I just got used to using the hard button.
Just like my other unit, the Audi console volume knob allows you to skip forward and back (by pushing sideways on the knob) just like the stock MMI, however, pushing it down only mutes audio. It does not behave like the MMI and pause streaming audio. So whatever you're listening to plays in the background during the mute. Annoying for podcasts and books. You can touch the screen, but having that hard button work would be nice.
This unit tries to emulate the HVAC temp changes that happen on the stock interface. Audi shows whichever side of the car is turning up or down the temp and what the setting is on the screen. However, this unit just puts up a graphic that instead of the temp shows "HI". So half done UI. My old unit had no HVAC interface at all when in Android mode.
I've still got the protective film on the screen right now until I take it back off to put in the stock bezel, but I could do with a bit brighter screen. It's not unreadable, but 20% brighter would be nice for sunny days.
Just like the old box I had for Android Auto, this one doesn't change the day/night mode on maps. You have to manually set it to dark or night if you want it to change depending on lighting conditions. At least it's easier to access in the menu now that I have a touch screen.
I logged into my Google account on the stock Android part of the unit to install a couple of apps (GPS tester, etc.). Somehow the thing deleted ALL my google contacts when the account synced up. I restored them from trash and could see the device that did it, so I know it's this unit. It was fine for a few days, then did it again. Might be when I connect to wifi at home to go to the Play store that it does it. Probably a setting to turn off sync, but I haven't looked into it yet.
It currently mutes Android Auto if I switch to one of the stock screen views except I think the backup camera. I think that it initially did it on the camera, but there's a setting to change that. I just need to find that for if I look at one of the other screens like drive mode.
Overall, the navigation speed is good enough. If I can get the auto-connect wifi cycling resolved, I'll feel a lot better. Would I buy this unit again? I might try one of the other brands honestly. Just because this one feels ALMOST there, but just cheaped out a bit on processor and screen. But if you get a good deal, it's totally functional with a few quirks.
The other brand I was considering seems to have more sales. That is Coika. Who knows if they're really the same thing from the same factory. Wouldn't be surprised, but it would be good to compare back to back. I'm just not going to do it Either of these options are half as expensive as RSNAV or some of the other more Audi forum prominent brands.
That in depth enough?
Conveniently the GPS cable arrived today that allowed me to tap into the car's GPS antenna. Big win if you ever want to use the built in navigation. Works great, although the cable I ordered is a bit tight. Now I can pull out the other GPS antenna that I had routed behind the glove box to go up the A pillar.
While installing, I googled B8.5 MMI GPS hookups to make sure I had the right cable off the back of the MMI unit. Apparently I wasn't exactly an original thinker, at RSNAV already offered these cables. This is the way to go and the AliExpress sellers should 100% include these instead of the full antenna that you have to mount somewhere.
Audi Original GPS Antenna Splitter Cable for S2, S3, S4
Audi Original GPS Antenna Splitter Cable for RSNAV S2, S3, S4 Android system on Audi Vehicles with Audi Navigation System only. - Best reception of GPS signal for your RSNAV S2,S3, S4 Android system - GPS hot start, super faster time sync - Work both for Audi MMI system and S2, S3, S4, This is...
rsnav.com
*I have not tested the stock nav yet, but I never use that anyway. I'll try to remember to look to confirm that's still working. Might be some kind of time interface into the car that it grabs from GPS, so it might still be important. I'll do it before I reinstall the dash. I just wired it enough to verify via the GPS testing app that it was better than the included antenna (it was).
Thank you Andy, much more detail than i expected.
Really appreciate the quick writeup esp the notes on the gps issue and getting a splitter.
Andy S said:
This probably is irrelevant as it doesn't affect Android Auto/CarPlay, which rely on the phone GPS. I'm just curious about the built in navigation and it wasn't a bunch to spend to try out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great review and very interesting because I'm looking at getting the same car. Just a small point, Android Auto does in fact use the car's GPS where possible. Waze uses the phone GPS but Google Maps and Sygic can use the car's GPS, for example.
Cutprods said:
Great review and very interesting because I'm looking at getting the same car. Just a small point, Android Auto does in fact use the car's GPS where possible. Waze uses the phone GPS but Google Maps and Sygic can use the car's GPS, for example.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I doubt it would in this case, as Zlink as I understand it is kind of a hack to make AA work. On a truly integrated solution, I'm sure you are right.
Andy S said:
I doubt it would in this case, as Zlink as I understand it is kind of a hack to make AA work. On a truly integrated solution, I'm sure you are right.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Works with the Headunit Reloaded app, that I use on my older PX5. I don't know if you can use that on your new HU? Zlink and Easy Connection never worked well for me.
Cutprods said:
Works with the Headunit Reloaded app, that I use on my older PX5. I don't know if you can use that on your new HU? Zlink and Easy Connection never worked well for me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I might try it to see if it will solve my wireless issue. This is my first real Android head unit other than the pass through box I used before that isn't really a head unit. Is there a best way to install? Just from the Play store?
Heya, sorry I completely forgot to post about my Qualcomm 665 8/128GB Unit that I bought after putting it in.
Here's my thoughts:
Short TL;DR seems to be: Don't buy Nuuno or the other brands, according to BMW Forums get a Navifly Unit. (They seem to cost as much as the Nunoo or others but give far better configurability thanks to mods and seems to be more known):
The Configurations to look for seem to be Qualcomm 450/625 with 2GB/32GB or 4GB/64GB
For REAL Android 11 and from what I read even Android 12 it would be: 4/64, 6/128 or 8/256 (Look at the 6/128GB, all the other Units normally have 8/128GB)
Here's for more Information on how to get one and being sure that yours is legit and where I got this from (I hope XDA allows the Links, if not Google for "BMW KSW Android 10" and use f30.bimmerpost):
10.25" Android 10 HU discussion
10.25" Android 10 HU discussion
f30.bimmerpost.com
10.25" Android 9/10 HU theming and discussion
10.25" Android 9/10 HU theming and discussion
f30.bimmerpost.com
Android 11 HU discussion
Android 11 HU discussion
f30.bimmerpost.com
But since we're here about the Nuuno let me add some stuff about mine:
The Package with the radio arrived pretty swiftly and pretty much everything you need to tear apart my A6 4F was included.
Sadly the new Plastic Insert for the Radio/Dash is the wrong color (My older 4F uses a dark gray and the new one is silver like for the newer 4F) but that's not much of a issue, still looks good. BUT the fit is not that well done, it has quite a few bigger gaps all around compared to the original plastic. You tend to forget about it though the longer you have it in your car up to the point you won't even notice it yourself anymore or even care.
Same problems with GPS here, the Signal is pretty bad to okayish at best so also need to try to get the original GPS antenna connected but it's not a huge breaking deal since using Android Auto it still works well and I dont care about the built in one.
Android Auto Wireless is also iffy here, sometimes it tries to connect, the fails and never tries again until I disconnect and reconnect my Phones Bluetooth connection to the headunit, then it works first try. What also seems to help is immediately after the Unit is booted up opening the zlink app, Then it also seems to work 90% of the time for me. Wired Android Auto works 100% of the time.
Using the Steering Wheel Controls is perfectly fine, I can even skip songs ahead or go back with the left one that normally selects the Input. That is something my older Android Auto retrofit module couldn't do.
NEVER EVER LOG INTO YOUR MAIN GOOGLE ACCOUNT ON THESE "FAKE" OR OLDER UNITS. That is sadly a well-known practice in most of the Android Car Radio Forums since many seem to have that annoying bug that deletes your Contacts. The Navifly/KSW Android Radios seem to not have this/or it got fixed.
Better be safe and always use a throwaway account on these things.
The Muting Sound when going to one of the original Car Menus is pretty bad, or well on mine it doesn't actually mute, it stops playback. If I start the music again from my phone I can listen to my Music and go through the original Car Menus. It sadly aslo cannot be deactivated this "Feature". Only on the Navifly/KSW Units mentioned in the BMW Forums you seem to be able to do it which is probably why I will get me one of those. Hopefully I won't forget to write a bit about that one too.
Lastly the AC: On my MMI 2G 4F the Display shows the correct Temperature that I set on my AC in the Display..
I hope this also helped a bit since these Units don't seem to be well known about only or atleast reported biut if you look on Aliexpress they're pretty much the first 10 you get shown when looking for Audi
Thanks for the info @Darthsternie. Do either of those brands make a unit that works with Audis? I briefly looked and couldn't find anything. I hate to end up buying a third unit for my car, so I guess I'll keep this one for the time being. I just really want to get the wireless piece figured out.
I just went out and put my stuff back together to confirm the GPS splitter cable did not interfere with stock nav, and it doesn't. So whatever the car might use GPS for should still work. While doing that, I confirmed what Darthsternie said about switching to the stock interface, it does pause playback. Not just mute. I assumed that was correct, but wanted to confirm on my unit. Backup camera has an option to disable this, but if you go into anything else from the Audi MMI, it pauses.
Also, thanks for the info on the temp. I'm on the 3g MMI "High" on my 2016 S4 (B8.5). "High" I believe means has stock NAV. Might ask the company about my issue. To be honest, since I have the dual temps shown on the temp dials, it's not really something I care much about.
I did log out of my google account and used an abandoned account I used years ago for a specific purpose that I no longer need. Should have known better. My concern was for apps I may have purchased like Torque. Don't really want to buy again. Wonder if I can put my other account in my family? Will look up how many people can be in a family. I think I'm at 2 right now.
As to the wireless, once I get in a bad state where it's constantly looping the connection attempt, I've been unable to solve it without a reboot. I can kill Zlink. I can cycle bluetooth on the phone. I can manually navigate to Zlink, but that's not the problem because I can even auto-launch Zlink at start and it still does it.
Will have to investigate a replacement for Zlink if that's possible on these. I just haven't really dug into Android head units enough to know anything at this point. Need a good wiki or something
Navifly is not a guarantee either, they also sell snapdragons as well as MTK units, you want the legit snapdragon with the KSW software if you want to have a compatible unit with what most of the modders are using. I got mine a few years ago from Navifly and it is a P60 cpu MTK unit and it works well and gets the job done, but I would much rather have a KSW based unit.
I also have a B8.5 Audi.
You should download Device Info HW from the play store and it will give you a breakdown on the unit and let you know if they are faking the android version, etc.
Device Info HW - Apps on Google Play
Hardware and software information app for Android devices.
play.google.com
twist said:
Navifly is not a guarantee either, they also sell snapdragons as well as MTK units, you want the legit snapdragon with the KSW software if you want to have a compatible unit with what most of the modders are using. I got mine a few years ago from Navifly and it is a P60 cpu MTK unit and it works well and gets the job done, but I would much rather have a KSW based unit.
I also have a B8.5 Audi.
You should download Device Info HW from the play store and it will give you a breakdown on the unit and let you know if they are faking the android version, etc.
Device Info HW - Apps on Google Play
Hardware and software information app for Android devices.
play.google.com
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Suspiciously, Device Info HW will install, but fails to run on launch. Will dig a bit more.
I finally heard back from these guys and got a screenshot. Here is the link for the unit.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803161214499.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.3a3738dazQvvo3&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
And here is the screenshot he sent. This is the newer KSW software and it should be a legit snapdragon 662.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Talking to these guys through their aliexpress translator is almost futile. I ended up sending him a screenshot with the APP Ver highlighted on a different older KSW unit and then he sent this back.
I have just bought this one for my Audi A6 C6 from 2005.
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005005240382533.html
I hope it's a real 662 Unit but according to the seller and a screenshot from them it is.
I will try to report back again when it arrives and compare it to the Nuuno Unit that I have now
Hi,
Ive just ordered 2 weeks ago a Nunoo 12.3 128+8GB device with Snapdragon 665 for my A5 B8 Pre-Facelift. Ive asked the seller to confirm if its really 665 and he did. I can also confirm, that my device have a 665 if i can trust CPU-Z this device info software shows also Android 12S. I dont know, if its better to have this MTK8581 CPU like on the COIKA devices or the Snapdragon 665. I just can say i was focused on the 665 because this is that, was RSNAV uses.
I had before an RSNAV S1, so the first generation in 10.25". This unit was also for sure not bug free and i switched it because it was now fully bricked. I got random bootloops and blackscreens, even after factory reset. My brightness control was buggy, it was inverted and dark at day and bright at night. Support from RSNAV haven't helped me with that. Finally, I also had no GPS reception any more. I had used the roof antenna from the A5 for the S1, without the splitter. However, as the roof antenna is a known problem and tends to break down overnight, I assumed that this problem had now also affected me. But that's not true, because the roof antenna now showed 15 satellites when connected to the MMI again After research, I found out that this was also a known problem with the RSNAV S1, that the GPS transistor burns out and that this is not repairable.
I don't have any further experience with the new Nunoo device yet, I need a few more days for that. I can report back then. What I noticed is that the frame that was sent to me has a much worse fit than the one I had with the RSNAV S1. Let's see if the support team can do something about that.
By the way, some people have already reported that the RSNAV firmware runs just as well on the Nunoo devices. I have not yet tried this out myself. However, this could fix some bugs and possibly bring a few more options.
RSNAV was a major rip off IMO, they are just selling the same Chinese units at a markup and the markup is not worth what little support you might get, that is just my opinion and I know many will disagree.
The snapdragon is going to be way better then the MTK I had an MTK previously and it worked fine but I was unable to change launchers or do anything outside of what they supply, the MTK units are super locked down and proprietary, the snapdragons have all kinds of fun mods and capabilities so you can really dial in your head unit how you want it to be.
I don't personally know anything about nunoo but these units are almost all made by Mekede / Navifly and being resold by multiple different stores just rebranding. I am sure there are some other companies making fake units, but a lot of the chinese stuff all comes from the same factory and then a ton of other companies rebrand them and resell them.
Even my previous Mekede MTK unit was fake android 10, it was really android 9, the fraud and scams on aliexpress is so unacceptable, which is why I buy very little there, these headunits were the only 2 purchases I have made on there in the last 2+ years.