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Hi Guys,
I've been searching but couldn't find info on this head unit. It looks like they upgraded the screen to 7" 1024x600 on an older dual core 1.6Ghz RK3066 to make a universal 2DIN unit. It seems to be a recently released model, looks like a nice unit for a good value.
Does anyone have this HU or know about it? Hotaudio seems to be the original manufacturer, is there a better known clone of this unit?
All I can find searching for "Hotaudio 2100" are some posts on a Russian forum:
https://www.drive2.ru/l/7069581/
https://www.drive2.ru/l/7031068/
They're on Aliexpress and Ebay:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Dual...ole-size-176mm-101mm-No-disc/32342857044.html
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1024-600-An...mm-176mm-7-inch-navi-radio-wifi-/251948090321
Any info or ideas?
Hi. This Hotaudio RK3066 - 1024X600 HU is considered a HuiFei type, so check out the thread below for more info:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2660662
Here's another thread on this specific HA HU that could help too:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/and...in-s07-android-4-4-using-rk3066-root-t3155372
Also, below's a link to Malaysk's Custom Rk3066 - 1024X600 ROM Images that have worked well for me with this HU:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=58249825&postcount=7614
And here's a link the MCU images for BN-HA RK3066 / RK3188 specific models:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=61291848&postcount=14139
My opinion of this HA HU is that it's inexpensively made and not perfect. For example, I had to relocate the WiFi antenna out the back, as the factory location inside of the unit created a very weak signal. To clarify, moving the antenna lead out the back of the unit increased throughput up and down by at least 10x + on my unit. Moreover, my HA HU also has an input switching issue with my vehicle's factory amp that creates a single loud popping sound through the speakers when switching from music to radio inputs or when turning the vehicle off. That said, this issue was not present at all with a prior Winmark Android HU in the same vehicle. I even installed a RCA ground loop isolator - noise filter and made sure the ground was to chassis, but the input switching loud single popping sound is still a problem with this HU. I'm guessing it's an issue with how crudely this HU the switches power, which is unlike the soft power switch and volume ramp up of my last Android HU.
Another issue with many of these Android type head units including this one is the boot up time. It's at least 20-30 seconds, but you can set the HU shut down time delay up to two hours. Still, it's not equal to having an any time almost instant on HU like my last one.
All the above said, this HU is decent if you can find it for around $200 US, but I'd recommend going with something of higher quality if cost is not a big concern, or at the least look for one of these units or similar ones with the quad core RK3188 processor and good support.
Bottom line is that these units are inexpensively made IMHO, but they can be fun to work with; thanks to Malaysk and all the excellent XDA developers and contributors. Plus, I still have not found any higher quality brand names to date that run pure android, OBD2, and have as many other app options available.
Best to all,
R
Thanks a lot for your informative post rhacy.
My unit just came in and I was wondering if this was the WiFi antenna you relocated out the back?
There seems to be an adhesive copper antenna tab taped to the inside of the chassis near the screen at the front of the unit. If you route it out the back wouldn't it put the antenna further away from the seats where you'd want the stronger WiFi signal? Was the stock placement of your antenna the same way?
Your previous Winmark HU with the instant boot up time was a Windows CE unit with Android running in a VM, or was it pure Android? I've seen the option in xdAuto firmware for the Carpad HUs to set sleep delay for 1day, 2days so it will instantly boot as long you drive every few days. I wonder if we can do that on these HuiFei units somehow?
I've seen mention in the changelog of an adapter that addresses factory amp pop by introducing a delay before switching the input, at least during turn-on. Maybe using an adapter like this might address the issue?
http://www.pac-audio.com/firmware/RP/RP4-CH11.html
Release Notes for RP firmware
2/13/2015 Rev 1.5.4.4:
Adds Fusion
Separates Sony & Pioneer
Adds Alpine VR command
Factory amp turn-on delay slightly longer to avoid turn-on pop
Fixes LED problem without proper radio selection
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Do you have Steering Wheel Controls working with your unit? Does your vehicle have resistive controls or canbus?
I'm going to hook mine up to power and test it out, will report any issues to this thread. Anyone who has one of these Hotaudio model 2100 please post your experience.
Hi rcll,
Your more than welcome and thank you for the heads up and link for an adapter that addresses factory amp pop by introducing a delay before switching the inputs, at least at amp turn on. Cheers!
Here's a link to one I found on ebay that looks like it may work in some instances:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PAC-TR-4-Ca...gger-Module-/191226517960?hash=item2c85fd19c8
Moreover, I'll do some more research and try to find an adapter that can sense any input switch and soft switch the amp. Well... I will if the new Android HU I just purchased has the same single loud popping sound when switching inputs or turning off. The new HU is a Joying JY-UQ124 Quad Core RK3188 1024*600 16GB 2 DIN system. It was purchased because I missed having an actual volume knob and wanted to upgrade to a quad core as well as see if it would fix the loud single pop sound issue.
Please note that I have emailed Hotaudio multiple times over the last month or so about the loud single pop sound issue when switching audio inputs etc., and Summer has stated that they are working on the problem and will send me a fix if and when they figure it out.
Also, if it helps at all, the Hotaudio HU is installed currently in a 2003 Mitsubishi Montero Limited with the factory infinity amp, 6 speakers, and a Polk sub-woofer. It's a non CANbus and non SWC SUV. As I mentioned in my previous post, there were zero single loud popping noise issues with the Winmark Android HU that I installed in the Montero prior this HA HU. The Winmark has a gentle audio input switching and a nice soft volume ramp up on any input including the radio. It was listed as a Pure Android Single DIN HU with the pop out 7" 1024x600 display and it has worked well. I only replaced it because I did not like how far it stuck out of the dash even with the display in. Plus, the display had to pop out in order for me to see my reverse camera or access my nav apps and that got old real fast. Also, I was concerned that the display motor or its ribbon cable would fail eventually.
Here's a link to Winmark Pure Android 4.1 Single DIN HU:
http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Pure-Android-4-1-universal-1_60150935774.html
To clarify further, the Winmark Pure Android HU is instant on when using the android music player or radio, but it does take 10 seconds for the display to pop out and up. That said, I'm guessing that there must be a sleep or standby mode for the Mstar system that Rockchip does not deploy. Plus, I know for sure that the Mstar system does not need to boot up even when the Montero has sat for days or weeks without use.
In regard to the Hotaudio WiFi Antenna, yes, mine was in the exact same spot originally. However, mine did not come with an adhesive copper antenna tab at the end of the antenna lead on the side of the case. It was just soldered to the inside sidewall of case. Your unit may perform better with the copper tab, although, I think there will still be more interference due to the antenna lead being inside the case. On mine, the difference between the factory mounting location and the lead being routed out the back (through the rear mounting bracket hole and then attached to center upper rear housing screw) has been a massive improvement in both signal strength and throughput. If I was not pressed for time during the antenna fix, I would have taken pictures as well as mounted a RP-SMA Antenna on the back housing like the one in the link below.
2.4G 2.5dBI Wireless RP-SMA Antenna with Extension Cord Cheap hot sale
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171505160014?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Further, I did ask Hotaudio for help with the ridiculously weak wifi signal and directly related low throughput issue, but they only suggested using a USB WiFi adapter instead of the internal WiFi radio. D'oh! And even then, there was no information on which adapter would work, or how to set it up, where to get the drivers, or where to get it. In turn, I pulled the HU, relocated the antenna lead, and tried to explain to them the poor factory antenna location problem. This was more than a month ago, so hopefully they are doing a better job on new units. Please note, my Winmark HU has the WiFi antenna routed out the back and it works great. Also, the forthcoming Joying HU routes the antenna out the back too, so hopefully it will work great as well. Anyway, if you're bench testing your HU prior to install, you can at least test the signal strength and throughput and compare it to your phone etc., and then decide if you need to reroute or not. Although, if you like to connect to home or work WiFi networks, I'd recommend relocating and upgrading the antenna.
Yikes... my apologies for type rambling...
Best to all,
R
rhacy said:
My opinion of this HA HU is that it's cheaply made and far from perfect. For example, I had to relocate the WiFi antenna out the back, as the factory location inside of the unit was poorly designed to save a few cents per unit. To clarify, moving the antenna lead out the back of the unit increased throughput up and down by 10x + on my unit. Moreover, my HA HU also has an input switching issue with my vehicle's factory amp that creates a single loud popping sound through the speakers when switching from music to radio inputs or when turning the vehicle off. That said, this issue was not present at all with a prior Winmark Android HU in the same vehicle. I even installed a RCA ground loop isolator - noise filter and made sure the ground was to chassis, but the input switching loud single popping sound is still a problem with this HU. I'm guessing it's an issue with how crudely this HU the switches power, which is unlike the soft power switch and volume ramp up of my last Android HU.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Did you ever solve the popping sound before you switched to the Joying? This is my second HotAudio unit, my first one had a power issue. They sent me a new one at no cost, but this has the speaker popping as you described. My first one did not have this issue. And no word from Summer yet. I really don't want to go through the hassle of shipping this one back and waiting another 2 weeks for a new one. Frustrating.
vdubskey said:
Did you ever solve the popping sound before you switched to the Joying? This is my second HotAudio unit, my first one had a power issue. They sent me a new one at no cost, but this has the speaker popping as you described. My first one did not have this issue. And no word from Summer yet. I really don't want to go through the hassle of shipping this one back and waiting another 2 weeks for a new one. Frustrating.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi vdubskey,
No... I haven't solved the Hotaudio single loud popping sound when switching audio inputs or turning off yet. On an encouraging note, Summer sent me a link to new ROM and MCU images yesterday should fix the single loud audio popping sound. I'm guessing the fix is in updated MCU audio switching assembly code, but I've already installed the Joying HU and it's been working great for the most part. To clarify, out of the box the Joying HU has zero audio pop issues, decent WiFi throughput, and is obviously faster due to the quad core. The only issue with it so far is low mic volume and some background buzzing noise for the person on the receiving end of my Bluetooth paired phone calls. D'oh! There always seems to be some issue with these head units.
Anyway, if Summer has not sent you the download link to the New4_rk3066_h(20150831) ROM & MCU images yet, you can pm me for the link. Please note that I'm going to email Summer and will post the link and password here if she gives me permission to do so.
Best to all,
R
I also bought this model and with the latest files from Summer, I noticed that the input pop sounds went away : ). Super happy about that
It is too bad I have to stick with the files from HotAudio/Summer so I won't have the popping sounds. This also means I won't be able to install the Malaysk's current custom rom as you will hear the popping sounds
butthead123 said:
I also bought this model and with the latest files from Summer, I noticed that the input pop sounds went away : ). Super happy about that
It is too bad I have to stick with the files from HotAudio/Summer so I won't have the popping sounds. This also means I won't be able to install the Malaysk's current custom rom as you will hear the popping sounds
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have this same HU and it has been nothing short of perfect for me. Try and update the MCU to the new (20150831) HA file and then put in Malaysk's ROM. The popping sound should be MCU related not ROM so you shouldn't have any problems.
I personally haven't updated my MCU yet so I still have that popping sounds, only the ROM to Malaysk's Aug24-2015 and it's running flawless. I bearly notice the pop anyways.
butthead123 said:
I also bought this model and with the latest files from Summer, I noticed that the input pop sounds went away : ). Super happy about that
It is too bad I have to stick with the files from HotAudio/Summer so I won't have the popping sounds. This also means I won't be able to install the Malaysk's current custom rom as you will hear the popping sounds
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great news. She just sent me a link with a firmware date of 09/09/2015 so hopefully it fixes it. Yea I appreciate all the work Malaysk has done but all of the UI changes done are not to my taste. The stock firmware looks much better IMO. I just extract the stock firmware images and rebuild with the modded apps I use and use then flash and apply *#hct#root# to root and install xposed and get the same experience with the same look as stock. Works for me [emoji6]
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Summer at Hotaudio has given me permission to post the links below that should fix the single loud audio pop when switching inputs or when turning off.
Please note that these ROM Firmware images should be for 1024x600 Hotaudio Dual Core RK3066 & Quad Core RK3188 Head Units, but I haven't testing them yet, so use at your own risk.
Hotaudio Rockchip RK3066 8-31-15 ROM Firmware & MCU Images:
http://yunpan.cn/cm4nU7wHDzcuA password:2782
Hotaudio Rockchip RK3188 9-8-15 ROM Firmware & MCU Images:
http://yunpan.cn/cmtZjSvdtbqqv password:6389
Thanks in advance for any feedback.
R
Yup that's the firmware I downloaded, the 9/8/15 one. I upgraded to a quadcore SOM for this radio. I'll try the MCU image first and see if it solves my problem and then the UPDATE image if I need to. Should get these posted to the HuiFei file server as well. At least the MCU files anyways.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
vdubskey said:
Yup that's the firmware I downloaded, the 9/8/15 one. I upgraded to a quadcore SOM for this radio. I'll try the MCU image first and see if it solves my problem and then the UPDATE image if I need to. Should get these posted to the HuiFei file server as well. At least the MCU files anyways.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! Please let us know if the single loud audio pop goes away or not. Also, once you flash the MCU, could you post the MCU version number for the new RK3188 MCU from your Settings - about section?
Moreover, once I know the both the new HA RK3066 and RK3188 MCU version numbers, I'll see if I or someone can post them to the HuiFei and mega.nz file servers - ( https://mega.nz/#F!KMZnXTJC!zDFMlP4qgxEE6vQxt8rrrw ), or if you do, please let us know.
Thanks again.
R
The MCU that was included in the 3188 download is v2.73. And that is what my system already had prior. I am still getting the pop randomly when switching music and radio apps. Although I haven't got the pop on boot or shutdown yet except a very tiny one that might have been related to something else. I'll have to do some more testing.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Hey guys, I am a total noob when it comes to dealing with these android head units. I am wondering if anyone can tell me if there is any way to have music (I.e. Mp3, radio, or other sources) to play continually, or at least while I am in the Nav app. Riding in silence just to use the Nav is not cool....
vdubskey said:
The MCU that was included in the 3188 download is v2.73. And that is what my system already had prior. I am still getting the pop randomly when switching music and radio apps. Although I haven't got the pop on boot or shutdown yet except a very tiny one that might have been related to something else. I'll have to do some more testing.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yikes! I updated to MCU 2.73 on my HA rk3066 about month ago and still had the single loud audio pop when switching inputs or turning off. Regardless, thanks for posting the MCU version. It's probably a waste of time, but I'll bench flash the MCU included with latest rk3066 ROM from Summer to see if it's newer than 2.73.
Bigjoe1025 said:
Hey guys, I am a total noob when it comes to dealing with these android head units. I am wondering if anyone can tell me if there is any way to have music (I.e. Mp3, radio, or other sources) to play continually, or at least while I am in the Nav app. Riding in silence just to use the Nav is not cool....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try going into Settings > GPS and selecting Mixing. There, you can also adjust the volume settings between your music and gps voice directions. Please note that this GPS volume setting may not work if you're using a GPS app with text to speech street names.
Hope this helps...
Best to all,
R
butthead123 said:
I also bought this model and with the latest files from Summer, I noticed that the input pop sounds went away : ). Super happy about that
It is too bad I have to stick with the files from HotAudio/Summer so I won't have the popping sounds. This also means I won't be able to install the Malaysk's current custom rom as you will hear the popping sounds
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey can you post the version number of the MCU that took the pop away. Also the firmware date? Is your unit a dual core or quadcore. Thanks.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Update: I went ahead and flashed the update.img after the MCU.img had no effect and it has resolved the speaker popping. So it turns out the even tho the MCU probably does handle the input switching, it must have been how the OS handled the execution. No facts to back that up but just my opinion. Now I have to mod this version all over again and setup my apps but oh well.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
vdubskey said:
Update: I went ahead and flashed the update.img after the MCU.img had no effect and it has resolved the speaker popping. So it turns out the even tho the MCU probably does handle the input switching, it must have been how the OS handled the execution. No facts to back that up but just my opinion. Now I have to mod this version all over again and setup my apps but oh well.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for posting that the latest Update Image from Summer at Hotaudio fixes the audio pop. I did bench load the included MCU for the HA rk3066. Unfortunately, it was version 2.60, so I knew it would not help. Thanks again for verifying the fix is the new firmware.
Cheers,
R
Another update: So the newest firmware fixes the pop when switching from radio to music and vice versa perfectly. Haven't had a pop yet. But I'm still getting a random pop here and there on ignition off. So I think I'm going to going to wire my DCDC-USB power supply in-between the unit and the battery so I can use the power off delay function to make sure my amp is powered off before the unit so I don't get the pop. Hopefully it works out.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Does anyone know how to get into recovery mode? This model doesn't have physical buttons but it still has the reset button. I tried going from maylask's to the original img. After flashing, it never booted successfully and now I'm stuck on the android logo screen. Any pointers ?
My new head unit arrived the other day. Ordered it from AliExpress and it took less than a week to get here. I sought out a replacement because my previous Android head unit (Eonon GA5153) was having issues. It performed great for just over a year without any issues. A couple weeks ago my car battery started draining and I couldn't figure out why. It wasn't until I went to grab something out of my car at night that I realized the lights around the unit were still illuminated. Not only that but the fan was still going. I searched thread after thread and I couldn't seem to find an answer other than installing a toggle switch on the accessory wire. I found the Witson 9 inch unit for $245.00 and decided to give it a shot. After unboxing and wiring everything up I realized that the radio trim wouldn't go on because the edges were somewhat squared off in the back of the unit. It clearly isn't a perfect fit for my vehicle (2008 VW R32) but I wasn't going to let a small problem like some square edges prevent me from enjoying a new head unit...that and sending it back to China. I pulled out the old Dremel and used a sanding attachment at low speed and fixed the problem in less than 5 minutes. The unit looks great. Fits just as well as the Eonon did. The only issues Ive had thus far involve the unit not remembering certain things when its shut down. The LOUD beep that occurs with every touch has to be shut off every time I start the car. The radio starts up every time the car is started as well and doesn't save any of the pre-sets. The adjustments to the equalizer wont save either. If anyone could help me out with these issues Id greatly appreciate it! Thanks!
TicketToKickIt said:
My new head unit arrived the other day. Ordered it from AliExpress and it took less than a week to get here. I sought out a replacement because my previous Android head unit (Eonon GA5153) was having issues. It performed great for just over a year without any issues. A couple weeks ago my car battery started draining and I couldn't figure out why. It wasn't until I went to grab something out of my car at night that I realized the lights around the unit were still illuminated. Not only that but the fan was still going. I searched thread after thread and I couldn't seem to find an answer other than installing a toggle switch on the accessory wire. I found the Witson 9 inch unit for $245.00 and decided to give it a shot. After unboxing and wiring everything up I realized that the radio trim wouldn't go on because the edges were somewhat squared off in the back of the unit. It clearly isn't a perfect fit for my vehicle (2008 VW R32) but I wasn't going to let a small problem like some square edges prevent me from enjoying a new head unit...that and sending it back to China. I pulled out the old Dremel and used a sanding attachment at low speed and fixed the problem in less than 5 minutes. The unit looks great. Fits just as well as the Eonon did. The only issues Ive had thus far involve the unit not remembering certain things when its shut down. The LOUD beep that occurs with every touch has to be shut off every time I start the car. The radio starts up every time the car is started as well and doesn't save any of the pre-sets. The adjustments to the equalizer wont save either. If anyone could help me out with these issues Id greatly appreciate it! Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It seems like you have swapped red and yellow cables. Yellow should be always on +12 volt. Red is controlled via ACC, i.e. on when your starter switch
is in acc or running it supplies +12 volt. The yellow, always on, keeps the memory powered. i.e. radio stations are saved and so on.
[dormancy setting] - DORMANCY IF CUT ACC --> ON If you select a hidden setting to radio sleep after cutting off ACC,do not turn off the radio will remember your settings. It will be up to speed will execute and will not beeps when touching.
Hey all, last weekend i had a Joying VM130N2 had unit installed in my 2006 Mk5, and since I have had constant battery issues. I have done plenty of searching, but I am yet to find anything.. I thought it was alternator, seems not, then settings in the head unit which isn't looking like the solution..
I am not the best with card and am at my wits end! Any help would be really, really appreciated
Thanks
Mike.
Wired it wrong?
How do you know its the radio? Have you actually tested it?
Wired by an auto electrician and then rechecked it after the battery drain was first detected.
Some people have suggested that it could be the canbus controller? :S
I never managed to solve the Joying battery drain in my Mk5 Golf. Swapping wires was no help, so CANBUS controller was certainly a possibility.
What did you do in the end man?
robjg said:
I never managed to solve the Joying battery drain in my Mk5 Golf. Swapping wires was no help, so CANBUS controller was certainly a possibility.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I gave up tbh. I loved using PowerAmp, Google Maps, a cheap (compared to VW OEM) rear view camera, but the awful FM signal, constant battery drain and another annoying bugs made me switch back to a VW OEM stereo.
Mine was an older Android 4.4.4 unit, so may consider giving an Android 6 unit a try in the future if they can sort out these issues.
robjg said:
I gave up tbh. I loved using PowerAmp, Google Maps, a cheap (compared to VW OEM) rear view camera, but the awful FM signal, constant battery drain and another annoying bugs made me switch back to a VW OEM stereo.
Mine was an older Android 4.4.4 unit, so may consider giving an Android 6 unit a try in the future if they can sort out these issues.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well they seem sure that it shouldn't cause a flat battery :S
It was 100% the unit causing it in mine. As soon as I swapped back to OEM VW head unit, no flat batteries.
With the Joying, I would lose 0.5v approx overnight
You need to swap can-gateway in VW MK5 Years like 2004-2008. You can buy from me. About 70 Euro.
OK, so I have replaced the battery, and it seems that it may be draining slowly again.. I tried running without canbus, with the accessories cable connected, however it doesn't turn off when I take the key out. What do i do? Is it possible to bypass canbus?
mwhelan182 said:
OK, so I have replaced the battery, and it seems that it may be draining slowly again.. I tried running without canbus, with the accessories cable connected, however it doesn't turn off when I take the key out. What do i do? Is it possible to bypass canbus?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Read my post about VAG cars, Joying and the CAN-bus.
https://forum.carjoying.com/thread-709-workaround-for-canbus-sleep-issues-on-skodavwseat.html
As the website throws away the photos every so much months you need to take the pdf from post 8 (but start reading from post 1)
surfer63 said:
Read my post about VAG cars, Joying and the CAN-bus.
As the website throws away the photos every so much months you need to take the pdf from post 8 (but start reading from post 1)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hmm ... that link does not work anymore. Do you know whether this information is still relevant in the case of VW and the March 1 update?
buurman42 said:
hmm ... that link does not work anymore. Do you know whether this information is still relevant in the case of VW and the March 1 update?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
March 1 update? That's old.
It is not relevant to the firmware version. It has to do with the CANbus and the 2 ways VAG connects its cars.
See here the pdf.
surfer63 said:
March 1 update? That's old.
It is not relevant to the firmware version. It has to do with the CANbus and the 2 ways VAG connects its cars.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much, this is just what i was looking for!
About the update; It looks new to me... Check the blog at the joyingauto site for te 1 march update.
Verstuurd vanaf mijn Nexus 10 met Tapatalk
buurman42 said:
Thank you very much, this is just what i was looking for!
About the update; It looks new to me... Check the blog at the joyingauto site for te 1 march update.
Verstuurd vanaf mijn Nexus 10 met Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's the date of the blog post, the firmware is dated 12618
VW Passat B6 aftermarket radio drain issue Solved.
Hey I had a similar issue. I have a 2006 Passat 2.0T , I had the base stereo=premium 7 . I purchased a aftermarket Podofo 9" Android radio for my Passat.
It came with a canbus box, I installed it plug and play . Had horrible battery drain. I could not figure out wth was going on. Then I ran into this video from Dan Sohan on YouTube . I can't post links here because I'm a new user and it's disabled till the 10th post not sure why. But anyways I can give links to solve this issue 1000% and stop the battery drain.
Basically you cut the factory can hi and can low from the harness and run the can hi and can low from climate unit that's basically piggy backed on the climate control canbus wires. For me it's solved everything. I can leave the car for 3-4 days no issues... battery doesn't have the so called parasitic drain anymore and I believe it is the root cause to many aftermarket stereo installs on these newers VW's that did not use the K Line wire system and instead a CAN Hi + and CAN Low - ........hopefully these links help you guys like they did me I went through alot of headaches with the unit but overall it's a great unit , backup camera with sensors works flawlessly, GPS is great only downfall is Sound quality is not great but overall a good unit and not many people will notice the sound quality difference with something like this vs their stock unit. All the credit for this fix goes to Dan Sohan and his YouTube video .
ArfanZakB6 said:
Hey I had a similar issue. I have a 2006 Passat 2.0T , I had the base stereo=premium 7 . I purchased a aftermarket Podofo 9" Android radio for my Passat.
It came with a canbus box, I installed it plug and play . Had horrible battery drain. I could not figure out wth was going on. Then I ran into this video from Dan Sohan on YouTube . I can't post links here because I'm a new user and it's disabled till the 10th post not sure why. But anyways I can give links to solve this issue 1000% and stop the battery drain.
Basically you cut the factory can hi and can low from the harness and run the can hi and can low from climate unit that's basically piggy backed on the climate control canbus wires. For me it's solved everything. I can leave the car for 3-4 days no issues... battery doesn't have the so called parasitic drain anymore and I believe it is the root cause to many aftermarket stereo installs on these newers VW's that did not use the K Line wire system and instead a CAN Hi + and CAN Low - ........hopefully these links help you guys like they did me I went through alot of headaches with the unit but overall it's a great unit , backup camera with sensors works flawlessly, GPS is great only downfall is Sound quality is not great but overall a good unit and not many people will notice the sound quality difference with something like this vs their stock unit. All the credit for this fix goes to Dan Sohan and his YouTube video .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi
I have the drain battery problem on my 2014 qashqai. The life of battery is one year.
You have bypass the canbus?
Could I have the video?
Thanks
Hi all,
I am also suffering from battery drain on my RK1388 MTCD_MX. It was confirmed by my garage who measured 500mA from the radio while the ignition is shut off.
It seems the problem started after I recently did an MCU update from MTCD_MX 2.56 to MTCE_MX 3.73. I checked the "Shutdown delay when ACC OFF" setting after the update and tried several settings, without result.
The strange thing is that regardless of the "Shutdown delay when ACC OFF" setting, if I quickly turn the ignition off and on, the unit will always do a cold boot. So this is strange in two ways:
1. Why doesn't it behave according to the setting
2. Why does my battery drain if it indeed the unit is being shutdown and not sleeping when I turn the ignition off.
The wiring seems all ok (it is plug & play adapter), I measured everything: Red = ACC, Yellow +, Black ground). The only thing I noticed is that the ACC still has 0,14 V when the ignition is shut off. Could this be the source of battery drain?
Today I removed the unit and started measuring currents.
The smoking gun for me was the MCU update. However, I did not want to fully revert to MCU_MX 2.56 because under that version I had problems with the unit remembering radio presets for which I opened another thread.
After I set everything up such that I could measure red and yellow wire I found out that indeed the unit does not fully shut down when I take the carkey out of the ignition, despite the unit reporting 'shutting down'. After the shutdown delay (in my case 30s) the current was still around 400mA.
After downgrading from MTCE_MX_v3.73 to MTCD_MX_v2.56 the issue was gone. After removing the carkey and waiting for 30 seconds, the current indeed dropped to 0 mA. So this MCU version would not drain my battery.
I now upgraded to the before last MCU version MTCE_MX_v3.30, and with that version the issue did NOT return. So my conclusion is that for some reason complete shutdown does not happen under MTCE_MX_v3.73, hence this version is not okay!
It does make sense that radio presents were never gone after I updated to MTCE_MX_v3.73 as the unit would never fully shut down. Only after the battery drained I lost my channels again. Let's hope that the radio channel presets are preserved under the MCU version I am now running (no clue if it has anything to do with it). That issue is super annoying!
BiscuitR said:
After I set everything up such that I could measure red and yellow wire I found out that indeed the unit does not fully shut down when I take the carkey out of the ignition, despite the unit reporting 'shutting down'. After the shutdown delay (in my case 30s) the current was still around 400mA.
After downgrading from MTCE_MX_v3.73 to MTCD_MX_v2.56 the issue was gone. After removing the carkey and waiting for 30 seconds, the current indeed dropped to 0 mA. So this MCU version would not drain my battery.
I now upgraded to the before last MCU version MTCE_MX_v3.30, and with that version the issue did NOT return. So my conclusion is that for some reason complete shutdown does not happen under MTCE_MX_v3.73, hence this version is not okay!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I hope you reported this issue and your analysis to Joying. It is really important info. [email protected]
Hi,
There's an issue that has been mildly bugging me since I have had my Android Head Unit. Just wondering if I'm the only one or if this is a known issue.
Sometime when starting the car and the Head Unit powers up, the bluetooth and Wifi radios are not working. My phone cannot connect via bluetooth and the Wifi activation slider in the Wifi Setting menu will not move to the "activated" position.
Usually, a full system restart fixes the issue but I've had occurence where a second reboot in a row is necessary!
This has been going since I have had the unit. I didn't stay on stock ROM for long as I moved to Malaysk first and now using Hal9k ROM. Both ROMs exhibit the same issue. Point is I don't know if the stock ROM had this issue.
Head Unit is equipped with a MD725 version 1 radio module.
Does somebody have a workaround (other than rebooting)?
Thanks!
EDIT: Please check this post for a detailed explanation of the cause of the problem, the resolution process and finally provides fixes for it.
psyko_chewbacca said:
Hi,
There's an issue that has been mildly bugging me since I have had my Android Head Unit. Just wondering if I'm the only one or if this is a known issue.
Sometime when starting the car and the Head Unit powers up, the bluetooth and Wifi radios are not working. My phone cannot connect via bluetooth and the Wifi activation slider in the Wifi Setting menu will not move to the "activated" position.
Usually, a full system restart fixes the issue but I've had occurence where a second reboot in a row is necessary!
This has been going since I have had the unit. I didn't stay on stock ROM for long as I moved to Malaysk first and now using Hal9k ROM. Both ROMs exhibit the same issue. Point is I don't know if the stock ROM had this issue.
Head Unit is equipped with a MD725 version 1 radio module.
Does somebody have a workaround (other than rebooting)?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How disappointing to see that no one has replied. I purchased a Seicane unit from an Amazon seller two weeks ago, and among the things I noticed immediately was the frequent, seemingly random WIFI/BT disconnect. As you described, it happens when waking up. Either pressing the reset button or holding the power button for >5 seconds has returned their functionality every time (so far). But, in corresponding with Seicane, they act like it's the first time they've heard of it. They want to replace the WIFI module. But, I'm sure that'll take weeks, and by the time it gets here, I'm outside the return window with Amazon.
I'm fully stock, and I really like the fit and finish in my Tundra.
Can I thread-jack and ask you some questions to see if you have other issues like me?
- Google account sync is missing calendar (and chrome too, for that matter). That means any calendar app (stock or 3rd party) cannot access events. Do you see calendar under settings/accounts/google/sync?
- Side-loading apks is a no-go. Whether I use file manager, or the default "Apk-installer", when I try to install an APK (even OEM legit ones on the internal memory), I get a momentary flash of "package install.." then right back to the file list. Seicane doesn't seem to understand the issue, even after I sent them a video of how it's behaving.
- Fader is not working. I do have left/right, but when I move fader to rear, everything goes quiet. It seems front and rear are combined, because full front has sound coming from all speakers. That's not a deal breaker since I generally listen to podcasts, and not music.
Just knowing there's someone else out there with similar issue(s) is comforting.
Seicane = Bad Customer Service, No Support after they have your money
I purchased a Seicane Nav/Radio Unit back in June 2018, and from day 1 the Parrot Bluetooth module I paid extra for has never worked. Did everything recommended, used their BT apk, tried setting up via Phone apk, changed name of BT module, change passcode to 0000, 1234, 01234, but it never saw my BT enable Phone or Tablet that was within 2 foot of the Head Unit, nor did my phone or tablet ever see the Head Unit.
I have been going back and forth with Seicane, and after 3 months got them to send me a replacement BT Module. They shipped me an unmarked module that does not even look like its Bluetooth other than the 10 pins at the bottom of it for mounting. Oh, no instructions, no explanations, nor did they tell me the Head Unit needed to be COMPLETELY disassembled to get at the existing BT module. Once opened it was apparent that the module was soldered in requiring de-soldering of the old, and soldering in the new. Problem was while inspecting how to do this I found 3 SMD resistors on the main board that were damaged during manufacturing, so now I know why the BT never worked! I assume they knew it also, and that is why they sent me the replacement module knowing that if I opened the case, the factory warrantee was then void. So now they want me to spend $60 to ship the Head Unit back to them in China, and of course, they will void the warrantee and change me $60 to get it back.......NEVER AGAIN WITH SEICANE.................
Seicane:
CPU: 8 core 64-bit CPU Coretex-A53 @ 1.5G
Memory: 3891
Kernel Version: 4.4.93+ [email protected] #263 Wed May 9 09:36:56 CST 2018
Build Number: px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007 end.hct.20180515.095719 test-keys
MCU Version: MTCE_KLD_V2.80_1 Mar 1 2018 16:54:22
Model: px5(800x480)
Android version: 8.0.0
Android security patch level: October 5, 2017
I have similar problems, i thought that only the "XRC" units (MTCE_XRC_...) ones had the problem with WiFi and Bluetooth not working sometimes when you start.
From what i saw, a restart sometimes fixes it.
Somebody said that entering into recovery and then restarting seems to always fix the issue, but it's still annoying.
Until somebody finds a "real" solution, we're stuck with restarting the unit if the WiFi/BT doesn't work.
You could try using an USB adapter for the WiFi and Bluetooth, the ones i had (for my PC) didn't work, probably we need something designed for Android.
P.S. the problem is not from custom ROMs, it does the same with the ROM that it came with.
Well, that's not very promising. I initiated the refund/return process for mine with Amazon. I have about 10 days left before the return window closes. So glad I bought from AZ vs. AliExpress or directly from Seicane.
There's another seller of the PX5 (Hizpo) that is custom fit to my Tundra, but uses the button-less trim. I'm hoping that it doesn't have this issue.
On an aside, I figured out why my APKs wouldn't side-load. Under settings/car/factory defaults/other is a setting called "install apps" which was set to disabled. Switching it to enabled allowed me to install all my favorite 'patched' apks. Unfortunately, the intermittent wifi/BT is a deal breaker. I'm hoping Seicane can come up with a fix/workaround suggestion in the coming days - else, this one is getting picked up by the big brown truck.
verszipo said:
I have similar problems, i thought that only the "XRC" units (MTCE_XRC_...) ones had the problem with WiFi and Bluetooth not working sometimes when you start.
From what i saw, a restart sometimes fixes it.
Somebody said that entering into recovery and then restarting seems to always fix the issue, but it's still annoying.
Until somebody finds a "real" solution, we're stuck with restarting the unit if the WiFi/BT doesn't work.
You could try using an USB adapter for the WiFi and Bluetooth, the ones i had (for my PC) didn't work, probably we need something designed for Android.
P.S. the problem is not from custom ROMs, it does the same with the ROM that it came with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, if I can't find a satisfactory solution, my backup plan is to mount a USB hub behind the radio and use a USB Wifi/BT adapter.
From what I read, the Comfast WU725B is compatible with the android headunit. It's probably the same chipset that is used on the internal MD725 module of the head unit!
psyko_chewbacca said:
Yeah, if I can't find a satisfactory solution, my backup plan is to mount a USB hub behind the radio and use a USB Wifi/BT adapter.
From what I read, the Comfast WU725B is compatible with the android headunit. It's probably the same chipset that is used on the internal MD725 module of the head unit!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've got that Hizpo arriving on Wed. If it has the same issue running stock (as the Seicane XRC) does, then I'll be happy to give the WU725B adapter a go. I just wonder why there aren't more people complaining about this phenomenon given the popularity of the PX5 systems.
psyko_chewbacca said:
Yeah, if I can't find a satisfactory solution, my backup plan is to mount a USB hub behind the radio and use a USB Wifi/BT adapter.
From what I read, the Comfast WU725B is compatible with the android headunit. It's probably the same chipset that is used on the internal MD725 module of the head unit!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd be interested to know if this works. I found a thread where others have done that to fix BT call issues. Apparently it's not just plug and play in most cases.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...ons-development/bluetooth-usb-dongle-t3684383
Same unit, different issues...
Hazard15301 said:
I'd be interested to know if this works. I found a thread where others have done that to fix BT call issues. Apparently it's not just plug and play in most cases.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...ons-development/bluetooth-usb-dongle-t3684383
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
I think I have the same unit - I too had issues with Bluetooth, but after a factory reset it seemed to behave itself. The only downside is the hardware buttons on the facia (its a merc slk 200 type facia) are now not working! navi, setup, BT, 1-6, power etc all not responding. I'm a bit of a newb when it comes to the hardware side of these android head units - am I missing some sort of interface APK that helps the hardware buttons talk to the android OS?
Sorry for thread jacking, but I'm starting to get a bad feeling - I purchased from seicane direclty and so far, the support feels like one guy doing it after he gats back from the factory...
For ref I took some pics and a video of the issue - any hints?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WRrc69Qr3CpFaTq7A
I believe it MTCE_MX2_V2.94_1 on 8 core 64-bit coretex-A53 @ 1.5Ghz
px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007
xboson said:
Hi,
I think I have the same unit - I too had issues with Bluetooth, but after a factory reset it seemed to behave itself. The only downside is the hardware buttons on the facia (its a merc slk 200 type facia) are now not working! navi, setup, BT, 1-6, power etc all not responding. I'm a bit of a newb when it comes to the hardware side of these android head units - am I missing some sort of interface APK that helps the hardware buttons talk to the android OS?
Sorry for thread jacking, but I'm starting to get a bad feeling - I purchased from seicane direclty and so far, the support feels like one guy doing it after he gats back from the factory...
For ref I took some pics and a video of the issue - any hints?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WRrc69Qr3CpFaTq7A
I believe it MTCE_MX2_V2.94_1 on 8 core 64-bit coretex-A53 @ 1.5Ghz
px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need to go into the Factory Settings menu, under the Panel Key Study header and manually set all your physical buttons
Hazard15301 said:
You need to go into the Factory Settings menu, under the Panel Key Study header and manually set all your physical buttons
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
Yep - tried that - a couple of times (factory settings code 126) - tried reset and panel key study - nothing appears on screen. Tried waiting a minute or two but no dice. I'll try again just to be sure and report back.
---------- Post added at 10:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:52 PM ----------
xboson said:
Hi,
Yep - tried that - a couple of times (factory settings code 126) - tried reset and panel key study - nothing appears on screen. Tried waiting a minute or two but no dice. I'll try again just to be sure and report back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep - so just tried that page again - waitied about a minute and a half - nothing showed up - blank page & no response to any hardware buttons on the facia - the canbus based steering wheel answer, hangup and volume controls work as expected. So it should just detect the hardware buttons no issue? No special apk needed?
erkme73 said:
I've got that Hizpo arriving on Wed. If it has the same issue running stock (as the Seicane XRC) does, then I'll be happy to give the WU725B adapter a go. I just wonder why there aren't more people complaining about this phenomenon given the popularity of the PX5 systems.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The new hizpo unit worked GREAT! No dropouts. Well, at least not for the first 10 min... After that the screen went dark. Resetting and power-cycling made it beep and the buttons illuminated green for about 2 seconds... But that was it.
I did an exchange through Amazon and the replacement arrived today. On power up, no wifi or BT. ARG. I did a power-cycle, and both came back. I went to vehicle several more times during they day/evening, and despite cold booting, wifi resumed each time. Fingers crossed, but I'm guessing it will disappoint me soon.
I sent a message to the seller asking for stock MCU and firmware images, but I'm sure that will be met with crickets.
Will update if anything changes.
That didn't take long. Got in truck this am to find no wifi. Took FOUR resets for it to finally wake the wifi/bt. Really frustrating. Took a video and sent it to the Amazon seller (JBY TECH) asking what I need to do to get a functioning unit. If I do another exchange it'll be the third unit. This sucks.
Wish I could get a non-XRC unit that fits my Sequoia.
Growing more frustrated and impatient by the day, I opted to remove the back of the radio (which leaves the factory warranty seal intact) to get a better view of the wifi/bt components. The thing is tiny - smaller than a postage stamp. It appears to be soldered directly to the main board at 8 points - though the ones on the left are hard to identify due to the hot-glue applied to the antenna wire connection point. These points are not surface-mount sized. A steady hand with a standard iron should be able to comfortably resolder these connections. I would attempt it if out of warranty and all other options have been exhausted.
I did push down on each joint before re-assembling the unit. After several power-cycles, WIFI/BT remain on. The acid test will be in the AM. I am reluctant to even post this now, as I don't want to jinx it. I will post updates as they happen.
erkme73 said:
Growing more frustrated and impatient by the day, I opted to remove the back of the radio (which leaves the factory warranty seal intact) to get a better view of the wifi/bt components. The thing is tiny - smaller than a postage stamp. It appears to be soldered directly to the main board at 8 points - though the ones on the left are hard to identify due to the hot-glue applied to the antenna wire connection point. These points are not surface-mount sized. A steady hand with a standard iron should be able to comfortably resolder these connections. I would attempt it if out of warranty and all other options have been exhausted.
I did push down on each joint before re-assembling the unit. After several power-cycles, WIFI/BT remain on. The acid test will be in the AM. I am reluctant to even post this now, as I don't want to jinx it. I will post updates as they happen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The seller of my radio thinks I have a bad chip as well. He's sending me a new chip, should be here monday. So I'll be doing this exact procedure when it gets here. I think someone else said there's ten total solder points, and two are real close together and very easy to short together.
I was wondering why it is that wifi and bt will remain functional across short term sleep cycles, but only seems to act up when left in sleep overnight (at least that's how it works in my case). Not sure if that points to a software or hardware issue.
Hazard15301 said:
The seller of my radio thinks I have a bad chip as well. He's sending me a new chip, should be here monday. So I'll be doing this exact procedure when it gets here. I think someone else said there's ten total solder points, and two are real close together and very easy to short together.
I was wondering why it is that wifi and bt will remain functional across short term sleep cycles, but only seems to act up when left in sleep overnight (at least that's how it works in my case). Not sure if that points to a software or hardware issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm no engineer, but if I unplug all wires from the back of the radio and leave it de-energized for an hour, I would think that any residual electrons would be gone - or at least comparable to an overnight connected shut down. The fact that it still works after that hour makes me think it's hardware.
The one variable that changes overnight is temperature. The unit cools down completely overnight, and by morning the symptoms return. I suppose I could take the radio and put it in the freezer/refrigerator for a few hours and see if recurs.
If it is temp, that would lend credence to poor electrical connections - with the most likely suspect being the hand-soldered points (not the SM-ed board components). Admittedly, it's a stretch.
If your seller has OK'ed the replacement of your board, if I were you, I'd practice with the old one and re-solder those 8-10 points.
I recall reading posts elsewhere stating that keeping pressure on that board resolved the issue (one guy wrote about using tape!).
I just received word from the seller that they suspect the "core board" to be the problem. They want me to open the case and unplug/replug it to see if that resolves it. I've attached their photo. If it does not solve the problem, they suggest replacing it, and they provided a link to the latest XRC firmware (XRC8.0_20180510). I'm downloading it now.
Looks like when daylight comes, I'll be doing some vendor-approved dissection...
New daylight, and with permission to disassemble, I managed to get a better picture of the wifi/bt module. Unless there are pins underneath the board, it really looks like 8 connections.
I removed the 'core board' and replaced it. No wifi/bt. After third power-cycle it came up.
I really think this is temperature-related. By the 2nd or 3rd reboot, the electronics have warmed up and it starts working. Now I have to wait until it gets back to ambient temp to do more testing. To prove this theory, I've placed it in my freezer. I'll give this a go in about 30 min. If it stop working again, I think that would be pretty conclusive. Will update as I proceed.
After leaving the unit in the freezer for 30 minutes, the wifi/bt once again stopped responding. In fact, it stayed off for about 5-10 minutes (regardless of the number of power-cycles/resets). I even held down on the wifi chip and it made no difference. Only after it had completely thawed out and warmed up did it re-enable.
I'm going to relay this back to the seller. FWIW, since they provided me with a factory rom and MCU image, I took this chance to install the Hal9k rom. WOW is that worth it...
erkme73 said:
I just received word from the seller that they suspect the "core board" to be the problem. They want me to open the case and unplug/replug it to see if that resolves it. I've attached their photo. If it does not solve the problem, they suggest replacing it, and they provided a link to the latest XRC firmware (XRC8.0_20180510). I'm downloading it now.
Looks like when daylight comes, I'll be doing some vendor-approved dissection...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you upload the MCU update image?
Interesting stuff about the temperature. Quite frankly I had this ruled out since rebooting through recovery fixes the issue 100% of the time while normal reboots only works sporadically. I was under the impression that the issue was related to the MCU or some other component not waking up the device from sleep when unit wakes up.
had my joying sofia for a couple of years now and it has started playing up in the last couple of months
first problem was the screen becoming non responsive, fixed by following the soldering video
second problem was the gps fix getting REALLY screwed up when using any sat nav app, I put it down to overheating issues so had to switch the unit off and use my phone instead. not ideal
most recent issue has started over last 10 days or so - when the car is switched off and the keys removed the unit display stays on for approx 5 - 10 mins. It has no response and cannot be used, no presses do anything and there is no sound but the display is still "live"
I must admit i'm not impressed with the joying but it seems to be the best of a bad bunch where android head units are concerned as it has the greater community support
can anybody help?
Firstly, which Intel Sofia model & software version is it ?
Have you fitted larger heatsinks & fan for the main processing module ? This is especially important where the unit is mounted directly in front of the car heater.
For the shutdown, re-check the Joying sleep mode settings.
I had a Joying Sofia unit in my car till a few days ago. It started to slowly die after doing quite fine for over 2 years. Before it really gets on my nerves, I took it out and replaced it temporarily with a Coika PX5 unit. Seems that yours also slowly wants to make itself redundant...
It is absolutely normal that the unit remains on for another 5 minutes after removing the key. Yes, there is no audio output, and the screen cannot be touched. But one can fully use the unit from remote, e.g. via TeamViewer. This is how I noticed.
What it usually does however: turn off the display so the user does not see the Android screen anymore. This is no more working with your unit.
I do not know a specific solution for your problem.
I would try reflashing the unit, both MCU and Android. You will end up with a fresh unit however, because all of the Joying sw updates always wiped away all user data.
pwood999 said:
Firstly, which Intel Sofia model & software version is it ?
Have you fitted larger heatsinks & fan for the main processing module ? This is especially important where the unit is mounted directly in front of the car heater.
For the shutdown, re-check the Joying sleep mode settings.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
realzoulou said:
I had a Joying Sofia unit in my car till a few days ago. It started to slowly die after doing quite fine for over 2 years. Before it really gets on my nerves, I took it out and replaced it temporarily with a Coika PX5 unit. Seems that yours also slowly wants to make itself redundant...
It is absolutely normal that the unit remains on for another 5 minutes after removing the key. Yes, there is no audio output, and the screen cannot be touched. But one can fully use the unit from remote, e.g. via TeamViewer. This is how I noticed.
What it usually does however: turn off the display so the user does not see the Android screen anymore. This is no more working with your unit.
I do not know a specific solution for your problem.
I would try reflashing the unit, both MCU and Android. You will end up with a fresh unit however, because all of the Joying sw updates always wiped away all user data.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
to clarify -
my unit is the JY-UL124N, purchased from german warehouse 14/03/17
for the last 2 years my joying has "gone to sleep" on the immediate removal of the keys, not only in my current vehicle but also in my previous one so I do not believe it has anything to do with sleep settings. The same problem occurs when I choose "switch off" from the pulldown menu
I do not intend to try and fit heatsinks/fans - I am of the opinion that should this unit need them then surely joying should have fitted them in the first place?
I do not believe it is "absolutely normal" for the display to stay on for 5 - 10 minutes when the keys are removed/switch off is chosen, it has never done it in 2 years of ownership, has only started to do it within the last 10 days and does not do it every time
I have reflashed the unit several times, both MCU and android. same problem
to be quite honest, this unit has never really done it for me anyway - after having read the countless problems other users have suffered/endured over the last couple of years I suppose I should count myself lucky that my unit has been relatively trouble free and the problems have only recently started to manifest themselves. In my own personal opinion joying have foisted a substandard unit on the public and then sat back while we all became unpaid beta testers for them - look at all the hard work surfer63 and others have done? for free as well I might add. I should have kept my parrot asteroid smart as it was a superb unit but then parrot dropped support for it and its apps with no prior warning hence my move across to joying
I cannot put up with this thing anymore, I have never liked the music player and radio tuner interfaces anyway - they are far too "busy" and distracting. The FM tuner does not work properly. The sound is poor. The bluetooth handsfree is terrible in that people cannot hear me properly during a phone conversation. The unit is and always has been incredibly slow and laggy. The music player has a really irritating problem in that it will always play the next track alphabetically, NOT the next track of the album I am listening to. The music player also cuts off the first second or two of every track it plays.
Please everybody be aware that I do not intend to turn this into a thread knocking joying, I am just voicing my opinion that after 2 years of ownership I have not been impressed with this thing so to that end this afternoon I bought a new alpine iLX-702D. I have had many alpine units in the past and know them to be quality reliable units. And the FM tuner RDS/AF will work, properly