I bought an OEM style android head unit from Pumpkin Auto for the Mazda 6. I would post a link, but the noob rules won't let me yet. But you can find it on their site by searching for Mazda head units, and looking for the Mazda 6 version. It's the 7 inch quad-core.
Everything was fine for awhile except that I noticed It would make 2 beeps every time I turned on my car, and then randomly while driving, it would beep twice again. I tried to find a connection for the beeps, but they would happen while driving, while not moving, day, night, etc. I've looked online and I can't seem to find any reason for what the 2 beeps mean. However, now I am thinking they have something to do with either being over-powered or under powered.
It's been about 2 months since I installed it, and then a week ago I heard a click while driving and the radio went off. Checking the fuse box confirmed that it blew the fuse. I replaced the fuse, and it blew the new one immediately. Oddly enough I tried replacing the fuse with a higher amp (went from 15 to 20) and that did not blow, but putting a 15 amp in does blow. This past weekend I pulled the radio to check for any shorts in the wires, but couldn't find any. The connectors are all OEM, which was nice for installation, but also means there are no exposed wires, or taped ends. After putting it all back together and replacing the fuse again, it didn't blow for a few days. But now it's back to blowing the fuse immediately.
I am at a loss for what else to check or do at this point. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated? As well as any direction on what the beeping could mean would be awesome!
Someone with knowledge need to open the headunit and check the Power IC and the Amplifier section.
How many speakers you have? Try to disconnect them and see what's happend? Are the beeps gone?
Do you have external amp?
amonev said:
Someone with knowledge need to open the headunit and check the Power IC and the Amplifier section.
How many speakers you have? Try to disconnect them and see what's happend? Are the beeps gone?
Do you have external amp?
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Click to collapse
I've got 4 speakers and I'm not using an amp.
This headunit was OEM designed, meaning I'm still using the OEM connector. So I can't disconnect the speakers with out disconnecting power and everything else.
Thanks for the idea though.
I have installed a similar car radio from Ownice C500 (Octa core, 2GB RAM) in my Mazda 6 for a couple of days ago. I hear also 2 fairly loud beeps every time I start my car and also randomly during driving. I didn't think it was a problem though
I got the same issue. Just installed Android 8.0, Octa Core Head Unit in my Mazda 6 model 2010. I also got two random beeps now and then. It would be nice to know what causes these beeps and how to get rid of them if possible.
What head units do you guys have installed. I've also just recently installed an Idoing PX5 /octa-core, 2GB, 32GB) unit, specifically made for the Mazda 6 (mine is a GH from 2012). So far everything works fine except those damn annoying random beeps. Would like to know what causes it to be able to turn it off.
No blown fuse on my side yet. Hopefully it will stay that way.
I just picked up new Pumpkin stereo and I'm pretty excited as it is my first true Android powered car stereo. I have been looking at them for a long time and the biggest hesitation that I had was the complaints that I had heard of slow start-up times. I have been looking around at stereo options for my 2003 Silverado recently, and noticed that all of the higher end name brands were just so expensive. And they are only now just starting to get the Android Auto integration. That led me to look and see if there were any new improvements to the true Android stereos. Then I came across this Pumpkin unit that had every option that I was looking for; HD capacitive touch screen, Steering wheel integration, Bluetooth 4.0, phone mirroring or Google Navigation (this has both), and a rear backup camera input.
I really haven't had a lot of time to play around with the head unit, but so far I'm very impressed. One of the things that I was concerned about was having something that wouldn't be easy to navigate for my wife. I installed last night and when she got in my truck this morning, she was very impressed. I really like the UI that it comes with stock. Some of the icons are locked, but I'm ok with that. There are a ton of great pre-loaded apps such as Torque, and the Navigation app that came standard is Google Maps. Once I get to play around with it more I may make a video of the operation to help others make a decision. The unit is just as advertised for the quick boot up times. When I first booted up the unit it took only about 15 seconds and then every time after that it comes on almost instantly playing my music.
I'm hoping to finish up the install this weekend and play around with the placement of the wi-fi and GPS antenna's. I also want to wire up the backup camera and get that functioning. I will keep this updated as I progress through installing the rest of the components.
Unboxing it:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Couple installed pics. I will get some better ones this week.
Thanks,
Ryan
Hi, your pumpkin looks just like the one I bought and installed last week but mine came with android 6.
Could you please post a pic of your about device screen under settings. Just wondering if the hardware is the same?
Cheers
jimsey said:
Hi, your pumpkin looks just like the one I bought and installed last week but mine came with android 6.
Could you please post a pic of your about device screen under settings. Just wondering if the hardware is the same?
Cheers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Let me know if this is what you were looking for:
I finished up the physical install of the radio last night. My factory truck harness to the original stereo didn't have a dimmer light or switched 12v+ so I added those pins to the truck side of my harness so that I didn't have to have any extra wires to unplug if/when I ever need to pull mine out.
Home screen:
Radio:
It's been a few days now and I am very happy with the radio overall. There are two quirks that may just be user error, but sometimes the radio app doesn't want to stay open and will close, but the music still plays? If I open it up and push another button it will stay on though? The other is I have a fairly significant amount of static when making a bluetooth phone call? Maybe I am getting some sort of interference with the radio antenna or something? Otherwise it has been smooth sailing and I'm mad I didn't do this sooner! I'm hoping to get my backup camera hooked up this weekend and then the install is complete.
Looks good, you've got a px3 processor which is different to my px5 and explains why you've got a newer version of android to mine even though the radios look identical on the outside.
Not sure about the static, they do have their quirks but there's not much that people on here have xperienced and fixed.
Pumpkins own forum also has good support from pumpkin staff.
I'm not too familiar with the hardware, but hopefully my PX3 is a good processor. That's a great tip on the Pumpkin forum. Maybe I will search over there to see if I can find out why I am getting the static.
Looking at one of these units. I notice it doesn't have a normal wiring harness and has RCA type ends on the wires. Am I correct?
Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
I picked up one too. Not this exact model but it is the Octacore 7.1.2 version and 6.2" screen. You def have a newer build version than mine.
Processor Type - UltraOcta-T8
Android Version - 7.1.2
MCU Version - T8.3.19-11-00-453101-171129-UNIVERSAL
System Version - V9.2.2_20180120.164839_KED3-5
DVD Version - 2.13.15-860MC-160106
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I am having problems with the Radio not changing frequency and not showing RDS on all my stations. Old headunit did. Also my fast bootup doesn't work all the time. Pumpkin gave me a new version to download and install, but I haven't done that just yet.
Pimptorious said:
Looking at one of these units. I notice it doesn't have a normal wiring harness and has RCA type ends on the wires. Am I correct?
Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk
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Click to collapse
There are the RCA connections for back up cameras, and a bunch of other inputs, but there is also the regular unterminated ends that you have to solder to your existing radio or radio harness adapter. They called it an ISO plug in my instructions and I ended up cutting that off to splice on the adapter for my truck.
L-ight said:
I picked up one too. Not this exact model but it is the Octacore 7.1.2 version and 6.2" screen. You def have a newer build version than mine.
I am having problems with the Radio not changing frequency and not showing RDS on all my stations. Old headunit did. Also my fast bootup doesn't work all the time. Pumpkin gave me a new version to download and install, but I haven't done that just yet.
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I'm not very savvy with the technical side of the radio for installing different versions, but I haven't had any issues with mine. The only issue I have with RDS is that when I have a weaker radio signal it will spell out gibberish, but that is understandable given the weak signal. Other than than it works perfectly and tells me the artist and song that is playing, or the radio station. As for the fast boot not working, did you hook your wires up properly to switched 12v+, constant 12v+ and ground? Make sure those connections are rock solid. I soldered all of my connections and heat shrink to protect them.
I was googling these updated units as I have an older Pyle PLDNANDVR695 and it's just driving me nuts with how slow it is and the issues I have. I came across Pumpkins new unit that is an octa-core with 8.0 (https://www.autopumpkin.com/pumpkin...screen-octa-core-with-gps-navi-bluetooth.html)
Has anyone tried this one yet? The specs look great... I realize there will always be issues with these types of head units and I really want to upgrade from my current unit but I also don't want to have a bunch of new issues to deal with.
JLaCroix said:
I was googling these updated units as I have an older Pyle PLDNANDVR695 and it's just driving me nuts with how slow it is and the issues I have. I came across Pumpkins new unit that is an octa-core with 8.0 (https://www.autopumpkin.com/pumpkin...screen-octa-core-with-gps-navi-bluetooth.html)
Has anyone tried this one yet? The specs look great... I realize there will always be issues with these types of head units and I really want to upgrade from my current unit but I also don't want to have a bunch of new issues to deal with.
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Click to collapse
I actually have the 7.1 unit I just bought last week. I am going to return it and get this one. Just hoping it gets on Amazon soon as my return window closes March 2nd. So far the headunit has been good. I did have to update the MCU which fixed the buggy radio. Now it works well. I also thought I purchased a fast boot unit. I did not. So that is another reason I am returning it. Takes around 25 seconds to boot. This new one takes 1 second supposedly which is awesome!
I have an aftermarket system hooked up to it as well and it sounds fine. The presets aren't bad either. I tested the headunit's clipping volume on my O-scope and I was able to turn it up to max volume without the unit clipping. Impressive if you ask me. The rule most go by is 75% max volume then do all your tuning from there.
I got rid of the crappy factory look and downloaded Nova Launcher that I use on my phone. I will be doing the same with the new unit. Though one thing is when you add a new launcher you can't add a radio widget like the factory one has. I just bypass this by hitting the "band" key on the left.
L-ight said:
I actually have the 7.1 unit I just bought last week. I am going to return it and get this one. Just hoping it gets on Amazon soon as my return window closes March 2nd. So far the headunit has been good. I did have to update the MCU which fixed the buggy radio. Now it works well. I also thought I purchased a fast boot unit. I did not. So that is another reason I am returning it. Takes around 25 seconds to boot. This new one takes 1 second supposedly which is awesome!
I have an aftermarket system hooked up to it as well and it sounds fine. The presets aren't bad either. I tested the headunit's clipping volume on my O-scope and I was able to turn it up to max volume without the unit clipping. Impressive if you ask me. The rule most go by is 75% max volume then do all your tuning from there.
I got rid of the crappy factory look and downloaded Nova Launcher that I use on my phone. I will be doing the same with the new unit. Though one thing is when you add a new launcher you can't add a radio widget like the factory one has. I just bypass this by hitting the "band" key on the left.
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Click to collapse
Cool, thanks for the response! A lot of the issues I have with the Pyle aren't necessarily show stoppers, but they are absolutely maddening to me. For instance, it always delay initiates my amp by like 3 seconds... I have all my fronts through two crossovers into to a JL HD600 and I have the rears hooked into the HU directly; music starts playing and then the amp kicks in with the front speakers. Could be my issue but I've had a setup like this before on other headunits and it was never an issue. Also the auto-dimming is broken and manually changing it has this really weird issue where you change it, it switches back almost immediately and you have about a 1 second window to change it again... it's almost like it has a Min & Max value of brightness and it just jumps back and forth. Insanelyyyyyyyyyy annoying at night time as you're trying to turn it down and it will just go super bright and blind the piss out of me.
Anyways, I am pretty close to wanting to order this unit anyways and just try it out. The specs look fantastic and hopefully it's just a generally better experience than what I'm having now. The Pyle was my first android based unit and overall it's been cool, I just want a bit more out of it and expect a better experience overall.
JLaCroix said:
Cool, thanks for the response! A lot of the issues I have with the Pyle aren't necessarily show stoppers, but they are absolutely maddening to me. For instance, it always delay initiates my amp by like 3 seconds... I have all my fronts through two crossovers into to a JL HD600 and I have the rears hooked into the HU directly; music starts playing and then the amp kicks in with the front speakers. Could be my issue but I've had a setup like this before on other headunits and it was never an issue. Also the auto-dimming is broken and manually changing it has this really weird issue where you change it, it switches back almost immediately and you have about a 1 second window to change it again... it's almost like it has a Min & Max value of brightness and it just jumps back and forth. Insanelyyyyyyyyyy annoying at night time as you're trying to turn it down and it will just go super bright and blind the piss out of me.
Anyways, I am pretty close to wanting to order this unit anyways and just try it out. The specs look fantastic and hopefully it's just a generally better experience than what I'm having now. The Pyle was my first android based unit and overall it's been cool, I just want a bit more out of it and expect a better experience overall.
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Click to collapse
That sucks about the delayed amp. I have my remote wire from my two amps spliced into the red (acc) on the head unit which then goes into the pac harness for my truck. Soon as I turn my ignition on it powers up my amps. Though I am not sure if yours boots up quick or not, but maybe mine taking close to 30 seconds to boot my amps have time to turn on. For now I have changed the settings to where the headunit powers down after 10 mins when ignition is turned off. This allows for a quick start up of less than 5 seconds. Obviously this is for quick stops like the store or something. Overnight it is of course a cold boot.
The dimming on my is not auto either. I didn''t hook those wires up as it was a bit confusing which ones were the dimmers. Though the volume knob is actually the dimmer as well. You press it in and it goes from Bright, Dark, Off. I can adjust it more by pulling the system settings up, but the dark setting is perfectly fine at night.
I really think you'll be pleased with this unit. I am impressed by my current one and I have used nothing but top of the line Kenwood units for the past decade. I wanted more freedom in my headunit so I took a plunge at the low cost of these. Of course there will always be pros and cons. I also love using my phone as the hotspot and playing Spotify/etc from my headunit. Of course I did this with my old units but that was through BT. No need for BT now. I also don't care to have BT calling either.
L-ight said:
That sucks about the delayed amp. I have my remote wire from my two amps spliced into the red (acc) on the head unit which then goes into the pac harness for my truck. Soon as I turn my ignition on it powers up my amps. Though I am not sure if yours boots up quick or not, but maybe mine taking close to 30 seconds to boot my amps have time to turn on. For now I have changed the settings to where the headunit powers down after 10 mins when ignition is turned off. This allows for a quick start up of less than 5 seconds. Obviously this is for quick stops like the store or something. Overnight it is of course a cold boot.
The dimming on my is not auto either. I didn''t hook those wires up as it was a bit confusing which ones were the dimmers. Though the volume knob is actually the dimmer as well. You press it in and it goes from Bright, Dark, Off. I can adjust it more by pulling the system settings up, but the dark setting is perfectly fine at night.
I really think you'll be pleased with this unit. I am impressed by my current one and I have used nothing but top of the line Kenwood units for the past decade. I wanted more freedom in my headunit so I took a plunge at the low cost of these. Of course there will always be pros and cons. I also love using my phone as the hotspot and playing Spotify/etc from my headunit. Of course I did this with my old units but that was through BT. No need for BT now. I also don't care to have BT calling either.
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Click to collapse
I like your idea a lot about splicing the remote turn-on into the ignition on. I think my amp boots pretty quick but I will still plan to do what you've already done. That way it can also make sure that the remote turn on isn't losing connectivity and causing this 3s timeout. As I mentioned before, it's really weird because it does it for every song or transition of apps... insanely annoying.
The other question I had is how did you set yours to do remote shutoff after 10 minutes? One thing I haven't been able to do is this... not sure if my Porsche supports it or if I need to find an alternative power source that has this function built into it that keeps power for X# of minutes after the ignition is shut off.
I'm most likely going to order this updated unit this week... the only downside is I'm impatient when it comes to buying/shipping. I checked Amazon, nothing. with the updated unit There is an EBay store but it's coming from Hong Kong as well so it still has ~2-3 week delivery. I will likely order directly from Pumpkin because I want to order some of the add-on products directly from them (OBD2 and the 3/4G wifi dongle, which I'm super excited for since I have a spare, free sim).
JLaCroix said:
I like your idea a lot about splicing the remote turn-on into the ignition on. I think my amp boots pretty quick but I will still plan to do what you've already done. That way it can also make sure that the remote turn on isn't losing connectivity and causing this 3s timeout. As I mentioned before, it's really weird because it does it for every song or transition of apps... insanely annoying.
The other question I had is how did you set yours to do remote shutoff after 10 minutes? One thing I haven't been able to do is this... not sure if my Porsche supports it or if I need to find an alternative power source that has this function built into it that keeps power for X# of minutes after the ignition is shut off.
I'm most likely going to order this updated unit this week... the only downside is I'm impatient when it comes to buying/shipping. I checked Amazon, nothing. with the updated unit There is an EBay store but it's coming from Hong Kong as well so it still has ~2-3 week delivery. I will likely order directly from Pumpkin because I want to order some of the add-on products directly from them (OBD2 and the 3/4G wifi dongle, which I'm super excited for since I have a spare, free sim).
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I am not sure about the Joying units, but I would think they are pretty similar to the Pumpkin when it comes to wiring an amp(s). Usually you have a blue/white for your remote off the headunit. Though I do not recall seeing one on these. Also the subout is usually two rcas and not just one. So I had to buy a Y adapter to plug my sub into it.
You go into settings, then car settings and there is an option to turn on the option. It gives you 10 mins, 30 mins or 1 hour shutoff. It actually puts it into sleep mode. This allows the screen to turn off and not display while you are out of your vehicle for potential thieves. Hopefully I won't need to use this on the new unit.
Yes I have been trying to get ahold of Pumpkin on when they will be releasing the new unit on Amazon. I get 5% cashback and Amazon is just easier to deal with. As I mentioned before I hope they get added before March 2nd which is the last day for my return window on my current head unit. Do you not have a hotspot on your phone? Verizon is what I have and I have the unlimited plan so using Hotspot is free. I thought about grabbing the 3g/4g dongle but I didn't trust it. Testing the hotspot proved to me that I don't need the dongle. I also use the OBD2 BT device to track my vehicles sensors/gauges. Works well. Even though the headunit comes with Torque Pro already installed. I ended up having problems with that one. So I uninstalled it, purchased from App store and it ended up fixing all my problems. $5 is not bad for the app either.
Another thing I would like to add is the GPS. I am not sure if it is because I have the antenna inside the dash or what, but it tends to skip and not follow me very precisely like our phones do. I think I need to relocate the GPS antenna outside the dash and have it sit at the bottom of the windshield out of site. This is something I will test when I get my new unit.
I also just saw you posted on the Pumpkin forum, just responded to yours on there!
JLaCroix said:
I also just saw you posted on the Pumpkin forum, just responded to yours on there!
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Hmm...I do not see any posts on that board since yesterday. Can you send me a direct link to the post please?
L-ight said:
Hmm...I do not see any posts on that board since yesterday. Can you send me a direct link to the post please?
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Click to collapse
Apparently mine didn't post correctly, but basically was saying I also didn't see any Amazon store but found one on Ebay... but unfortunately it's still coming from Hong Kong.
---------- Post added at 12:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:54 PM ----------
Also just tried to post again, I realized that it has to be approved by a moderator before being allowed to show up...
JLaCroix said:
Apparently mine didn't post correctly, but basically was saying I also didn't see any Amazon store but found one on Ebay... but unfortunately it's still coming from Hong Kong.
---------- Post added at 12:56 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:54 PM ----------
Also just tried to post again, I realized that it has to be approved by a moderator before being allowed to show up...
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Yea I fotgot about that. My first couple posts needed to be approved. Though they always responded within a day. They have replied back at all and it is making me impatient. I see they have one on Amazon now https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079N9XDFT/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ANVW61FB1ZGIJ&psc=1 but I am not paying $350 for it when it was $310 on their actual site.
L-ight said:
Yea I fotgot about that. My first couple posts needed to be approved. Though they always responded within a day. They have replied back at all and it is making me impatient. I see they have one on Amazon now https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079N9XDFT/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ANVW61FB1ZGIJ&psc=1 but I am not paying $350 for it when it was $310 on their actual site.
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Click to collapse
Thanks for the link. I agree with you, ALTHOUGH on the same point I could receive it earlier and return it if there are any issues.
Hello,
Not sure how common this unit is, but I'm just trying to gain some details about it. I bought it at the weekend, it arrived yesterday and I am keen to work out what is going on. Hopefully some of you experts can help.
1. The instruction manual states that I must connect the long yellow wire to the battery, which will preserve the memory for the clock and radio settings. However, I've seen this on XDA for a similar Eonon:
Settings
scroll down to factory settings
password:126
default power status; memory of last status
apply
exit
yes to reboot
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Click to collapse
Which essentially means all radio settings are written directly to the NAND. Why wouldn't this be enabled by default as surely it would remove all requirement for that power cable from the battery, unless that power cable is simply powering the clock? I'm wondering if using GPS time might be better for me, rather than spending an age finding a place for this cable to go. Thoughts? I will continue experimenting tonight.
2. So far, the unit has absolutely no problem connecting to my home Wi-Fi but simply won't connect to my S7 Edge Wi-Fi hotspot. Are there any tips to make this work? Perhaps it's something to do with 5GHz or something? I just need it to work with my phone otherwise it's kinda useless
3. This is probably specific to BMW E90 owners, where are you guys hiding your GPS antenna? Nobody really wants it on the dash do they as it looks nasty. I've been reading about places to hide it but some are ridiculous, like running new lines via the roof lining. Surely there's somewhere within the dash that has limited visibility of the sky, but just enough?
4. Steering controls work out of the box, but I am unable to actually set manual ones? Is there any trick to this?
Thanks in advance.
Looks like I'm going to be the crash test dummy for this unit then. So I'll give my thoughts so far:
Audio Quality - Good. Very good actually considering it's a cheap aftermarket jobby. I've not had one that wasn't a Kenwood or Pioneer sound this good. My Erisin was okay, but nothing on this. The Amplifier app (which is a really a glorified Equalizer) allows a fair amount of twiddling, and I used the optimum settings that I was given by a BMW expert and my word, it blows the OEM radio out the water. Great start.
Screen Quality - It is what it is. Its clearly not high def but then they don't claim to be. It's clear enough though and when navigating earlier I had no problem.
Touch Screen - Jury is still out. I've had a few occasions where taps wouldn't register, but you can never tell if its the CPU lagging or not. Other than that, it seems fine.
Wi-Fi - I was sceptical of how this would perform, as it's one of the biggest complaints on these forums. No problems so far though. Connected perfectly to my phone hotspot and I listened with pleasure to Spotify for a good half an hour.
Installation - Easy enough. There is a surprising amount of wiring though so you need to get a bit inventive to get it fully recessed into the dash.
Does it need the yellow wire to the battery or fuse box? Well, I'm not sure. I found the setting I spoke about above, and so far it does appear to be preserving settings correctly. The only thing that is lost is the clock so far, but the clock is automatically picked up from GPS, so it's possibly a none issue.
Bluetooth A2DP - Jury's out. I tried it with YouTube on my phone and felt it sounded a bit thin, but then music on YouTube always sounds a bit dull and lifeless I find. I really need to use Spotify, but then Spotify works well on the unit, so there's no point.............
Bluetooth Calls - Only made one. Positive feedback though. The person on the other end said it was clear and that's always good. My end, well it wasn't as good as my previous Kenwood, but it was clear enough.
Reversing Sensor Integration - Game changer. It's brilliant. I don't have the camera, and I really can't be arsed to fit one. It's a shame I can't disable the stupid triangle that appears informing you that no camera is present, because the unit displays a car with coloured sensors on the back and that's top draw. Very impressed.
I skipped out on the tyre pressure monitoring, but I've got the DAB antenna and hopefully a piece of kit that will make DAB work with my OEM aerial, coming all the way from Germany.
I now need to resolve a few issues with installation. I wanted to route the USB cables and what not to the glovebox, but how the hell I'm supposed to do that I am not sure. I will get onto a BM forum and find out. I will post some photos up when I'm finished. Also, you do have to file a bit of the climate control part, so it fits smooth. Currently, I've wedged it in without the surround but it looks a bit cruddy, so I will do that probably at the weekend.
Current unit issues I am trying to resolve:
- Cannot get the steering wheel app to work at all. The steering buttons work, perfectly fine, but the actual app itself does nothing, so I cannot configure the voice setting for example, to open OK Google.
- FM Radio is dreadful. It was never good to begin with, but it's horrific now.
- Making the previous audio source come back after a cold boot.
ok, so almost had my first snafu tonight. CANBUS integration was 90% broken. no reversing sensor functionality, other than the original beeps, and steering controls not working. I was all but ready to send a snotty e-mail to Xtrons, when I tried booting up the hardware, turning on the ignition, disconnecting the CANBUS box, and then reconnecting it. I think perhaps the car has a fail safe if it thinks something is not right with the CANBUS and just disables it. Disconnecting the CANBUS caused the unit to switch off, I then reconnected it and the unit instantly returned and importantly the clocks sync'd up.
I've noticed if the CANBUS isn't working, temperature and clocks are lost. Hopefully this won't be a recurring theme. I was messing about in factory settings earlier, so I don't want to throw any blame at Xtrons just yet.
OK, so it seems CANBUS Integration is broken when you switch the car off and then return to it after a few seconds/minutes. I am guessing this is because the unit immediately goes into sleep mode when you shutdown the car and the car doesn't like this. I can't be sure until I return to the car in a few hours as not all the subsystems power down immediately. I am going to experiment with setting the unit to power down after 10 minutes. I suppose it's about finding a happy balance. You don't want to drain your battery excessively, but you need to be able to pop into the shops without losing almost 100% of the canbus functionality.
The games continue. I will do some more research.
Right, another update. Returned to the car after an hour. Canbus working fine. Switched it off and on repeatedly and for some reason I couldn't break it. Was solid as a rock. God knows why it failed this morning then. Perhaps it's the unit rather than the car then I will keep an eye and nagg Xtrons if it's problematic going forward.
I've set the ACC delay to 10 minutes but it doesn't seem to make a difference. It still powers off :| I don't think it does it any favours it powering off though.
Another update. So, if you leave your car for a few minutes, the canbus goes dead and is nonoperational until the next time you leave it for a while . I've not timed it specifically, but it's definitely happening. Wonder if it's the car or the radio causing these problems?
I will eventually merge this all into a single reply which can form the basis of the thread for this device. I'm guessing the price is somewhat blocking it's widespread popularity. I must admit, it's not easy throwing 300+ quid at a Chinese head unit.
Anyway, another update on this Canbus issue. I think the problem is both the car and the head unit. The head unit is 'half' going into Deep Sleep when I switch the car off. It's not fully entering deep sleep. Hence when I get back in the car within a few minutes, the device is still 'powering down'. It then immediately wakes up and usually, canbus functionality is lost. I wonder if there's a command that's not being sent or something and the canbus then falls into a bad state. Once in this state, it's nearly impossible to get out of it. You just have to wait until the car is fully powered down (about 30-60 mins).
The only thing this could be, other than a software bug, is because I've not wired that yellow wire in. Now the guys at Xtrons said it's just for the memory and clock, but I've proven that you don't need that wire to store the memory and the clock can be updated via GPS. So, could it be that the yellow wire also acts as a secondary 'accessory' line? God knows. Before I start tearing my car apart to run wires or trying to access the fuse box to tap them, I will run it through the cabin and to the battery which sits in the boot. Sounds lethal and very dirty, but this to me is the simplest way of finding out what the crack is.
Bingo. I've potentially found the fix/hack for CANBUS bugs and it might not require the yellow wire to be connected. I think the issues are probably caused by not connecting up that wire, but doing so is a bit of a pain. I'll need to route it to the fusebox or battery etc. blah blah. I'll maybe try for academic reasons at the weekend.
It definitely is the unit rather than the car I think. It appears to trigger some kind of 'bad state' when you switch off the ignition. What I have observed is that the unit never quite reaches deep sleep, you then enter the car a few minutes later and the unit is essentially half powered down, at which point it continues into deep sleep then immediately 'unsleeps'. At this point, all canbus integration has been lost, SWC, PDC, all dead. I think perhaps because it's continuing to enter deep sleep when you re-trigger the ignition, it is effectively powering down the canbus subsystem. This is then dead for the next hour unless the unit will power it back on, which is surprisingly awkward.
So...... the fix/hack, at least, so far, is to set Shutdown Delay when ACC OFF to 30 seconds, rather than Auto Sleep. The auto sleep mode never fully powers down the unit and that is the whole point I guess. If you set it to 30 seconds, the unit continues to power down after you've left the vehicle and perhaps it continues the correct shutdown of the canbus system. When you re-enter and trigger the ignition, it then powers it up again properly, or so it would seem anyway. One thing I will say, in auto sleep, if you don't fully engage the ignition, this also caused issues. With it powered down, I think the unit will not come back on until ignition is at least in accessory mode, so hopefully that problem is also gone.
The ONLY negative of this fix, is the fact that the unit boots from cold every time you start the car. Booting takes, I don't know 20-30 seconds ish? Not ideal, I'll admit, but it's definitely better than losing all CANBUS integration and not being able to operate steering controls and having your parking sensors work correctly. They're important after all.
I will test, as I say, for academic reasons at the weekend and if it does work, maybe the ends justify the means, but only if I can get the wire into the bloody fusebox
Skeeza,
Thanks for posting and tracking all of your work. I have the PE9890BPL (9in screen, no cd/dvd) and have been encountering some of the same issues as you. I do believe there are issues with the CANBUS integration as I have multiple issues associated with this harness. More than 75% (installed 2 days ago so 3/4 trips) of the time I have no steering wheel controls and the unit does not link (time and temp) to the center console. I do have the yellow wire connected in my fuse box but I just discovered that the fuse I tapped into may not be always on. I found a fuse that is reportedly always on listed on XDA so I swapped it and I will report if that does/does not correct my issue.
My time also does not display correctly. I do not have it connected to 4G/LTE and I would prefer not to if I do not have to, but I will. I manually set the time and it still loses it. The radio presets have also disappeared once. Perhaps swapping the yellow wire will correct this as well.
Finally I agree that music via bluetooth is "thin." Volume is very different than the FM radio and there is no base.
FYI I just received an email back from Xtrons about my intermittent CANBUS. They didn't ask any questions about installation or suggest any firmware changes, just said they would send me a new one.
jerkeife said:
Skeeza,
Thanks for posting and tracking all of your work. I have the PE9890BPL (9in screen, no cd/dvd) and have been encountering some of the same issues as you. I do believe there are issues with the CANBUS integration as I have multiple issues associated with this harness. More than 75% (installed 2 days ago so 3/4 trips) of the time I have no steering wheel controls and the unit does not link (time and temp) to the center console. I do have the yellow wire connected in my fuse box but I just discovered that the fuse I tapped into may not be always on. I found a fuse that is reportedly always on listed on XDA so I swapped it and I will report if that does/does not correct my issue.
My time also does not display correctly. I do not have it connected to 4G/LTE and I would prefer not to if I do not have to, but I will. I manually set the time and it still loses it. The radio presets have also disappeared once. Perhaps swapping the yellow wire will correct this as well.
Finally I agree that music via bluetooth is "thin." Volume is very different than the FM radio and there is no base.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Finally, nice to have a friend on this forum with the same unit I was starting to think I was the only person who had ordered it. Essentially we have the same unit, mine has the smaller screen + drive, yours has the bigger screen and no drive, like you said. Internally, they're essentially identical. Interesting you mention about the yellow wire perhaps not being connected. I think this is what we both need to resolve, and how important it is.
Let me know how you get on. I plan on running it through the cabin direct to the battery today as an experiment, but this isn't anything long term, merely an experiment. Realistically, I'll need to do this properly or not at all. I notice all of the same problems as you though. Temperature invisible, clock wrong, steering wheel controls, broken park distance controls too (you've maybe not spotted that). I installed mine Monday, so I'm equally a novice. Which fuse are you planning on using? I've been on the BMW forum, and it seems that finding one that is constantly live is a bit of a minefield. I figured the most obvious one is central locking, or maybe ECU ? Central locking would be preferred. It's a non critical system after all.
http://fusesdiagram.com/bmw/fuse-box-diagram-bmw-3-e90.html
Potentially this shines some light on it. Is yours an E90? Mines an 2007 E90. Fuse 56 and 57 are central locking, 15amps. I will check if they correspond to that tonight and if so, they will be the ones I use for my tap.
Good to hear I'm not the only one with the CANBUS issue. I am hoping we both resolve it by connecting up that yellow wire. Like I said, only one way to find out I did have a micro fuse tap somewhere for my previous motor, but I can't find it now, so I'll order another.
The immediate hack/fix for CANBUS is to set Shutdown Delay when ACC OFF to 30 seconds, rather than Auto Sleep. Trust me, it'll work 100% of the time after, but it will also boot from cold after. I think that's the problem. It's not shutting down correctly, quite possibly because of that yellow wire.
What do you think so far? I'm pretty impressed with everything else. Did you have to file down the climate control to fit it in?
skezza said:
Finally, nice to have a friend on this forum with the same unit I was starting to think I was the only person who had ordered it. Essentially we have the same unit, mine has the smaller screen + drive, yours has the bigger screen and no drive, like you said. Internally, they're essentially identical. Interesting you mention about the yellow wire perhaps not being connected. I think this is what we both need to resolve, and how important it is.
Let me know how you get on. I plan on running it through the cabin direct to the battery today as an experiment, but this isn't anything long term, merely an experiment. Realistically, I'll need to do this properly or not at all. I notice all of the same problems as you though. Temperature invisible, clock wrong, steering wheel controls, broken park distance controls too (you've maybe not spotted that). I installed mine Monday, so I'm equally a novice. Which fuse are you planning on using? I've been on the BMW forum, and it seems that finding one that is constantly live is a bit of a minefield. I figured the most obvious one is central locking, or maybe ECU ? Central locking would be preferred. It's a non critical system after all.
http://fusesdiagram.com/bmw/fuse-box-diagram-bmw-3-e90.html
Potentially this shines some light on it. Is yours an E90? Mines an 2007 E90. Fuse 56 and 57 are central locking, 15amps. I will check if they correspond to that tonight and if so, they will be the ones I use for my tap.
Good to hear I'm not the only one with the CANBUS issue. I am hoping we both resolve it by connecting up that yellow wire. Like I said, only one way to find out I did have a micro fuse tap somewhere for my previous motor, but I can't find it now, so I'll order another.
The immediate hack/fix for CANBUS is to set Shutdown Delay when ACC OFF to 30 seconds, rather than Auto Sleep. Trust me, it'll work 100% of the time after, but it will also boot from cold after. I think that's the problem. It's not shutting down correctly, quite possibly because of that yellow wire.
What do you think so far? I'm pretty impressed with everything else. Did you have to file down the climate control to fit it in?
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Click to collapse
I have an 08 e90. I was initially tapped into fuse 57 as specified on what you posted (56 and 57 are central locking fuses on my car's fuse diagram) but found that the radio would intermittently start up for a few seconds when I would unlock the doors. When I got to work this morning I switched to fuse 47 as shown on what you posted (fuse 2 on my car's diagram) based on a post I found on Bimmerpost but I did not get a chance to test that fuse location. I could go hook up my DMM to it and check after work to see if it is still powered. Both drives I took at lunch today the radio presets and clock have not been stored but my CANBUS seemed to be functioning properly. I think the yellow wire is used for more than just retaining presets and time. Where is the Shutdown Delay? I keep seeing a mention of a Factory Settings menu but I have been unable to find it.
I do like the radio and as long as we can iron out these few issues I will be happy. The previous Xtrons I owned had a horrible bluetooth echo for anyone who was talking to me while I used the radios function. So bad that my wife would not even talk to me unless I disconnected, which made it a show stopper for me and I returned the unit. I did have to file down the climate control to get it installed but the bottom sticking down farther bothers me less than I thought it would.
Shutdown delay is under Extra settings. It'll be set to Auto sleep by default, which essentially prevents the unit from shutting down. Set it to 30 seconds and you'll be laughing, except you'll be a tad annoyed because everytime you start the car, your head unit will reboot, but canbus will work 100% of the time. I believe the auto sleep could be one of the reasons we're having issues. I think the unit isn't powering itself down properly and then perhaps the canbus integration app is crashing? Would need to debug, but really, this is what they should be doing, not us.
Early signs are not positive with the yellow wire. I went out and ran the yellow accessory wire all the way to the battery. No idea if anything has changed functionally on the unit, but after re-enabling auto sleep, I was able to get the canbus to fail again fairly quickly. They've offered me a new canbus box as well, so I might take them up on that. I'm leaving the car for an hour or so now. I've disabled writing presets to memory so I can be sure the permanent live is working. It should be, I've run it direct to the battery, but there's a join in the middle and perhaps I accidentally disconnected it, we'll see..... in an hour Did you lose your FM Presets then? That's the first place I'll go then to be sure.
Frustrating.
How much did you file off? I'm looking at my climate control and I'm working out where to start. There's a plastic clip which goes into the metal bracket included with the unit. I assume we leave that but you file all the obscured plastic that surrounds it?
Bad news, wired in the yellow wire and disabled the writing the memory to NAND storage. Tested it by removing the wire, all presets lost, reconnected it and they were stored. Left for an hour, canbus working fine. 5 minutes? No, the canbus is completely broken..... the issue is definitely related to the headset powering down when you open the door and I think it's triggering the canbus on the car to deactivate. I've recorded the symptoms and will forward it to Xtrons. It's a combination of the two. Once the canbus is powered down, even having the 30 second ACC fix won't bring it back. You must wait for an hour until the car shuts down all the other subsystems. I think the reason it works with the 30 second ACC fix is because it's like a sequence, off, on, off, on etc.
In the meantime, I will request the new canbus box as they've offered. Did they ask you to return yours? They've not said to me yet, better not be back to China though. More frustratingly, this unit doesn't even work without the canbus box..... I don't think anyway.
Ultimately, if this doesn't work, you have to ask yourself what's more important...... the functionality this unit brings (which is plentiful) or the ability to boot it in 1 second. Personally, the functionality outweighs being able to boot in 1 second. It's just a shame we can't figure out what the **** is going wrong with it. Can I live with 20 second boots? Probably to be fair.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=etgYOHwAe04
Video of the canbus failing.
I just got this unit and installed today. I also have canbus issues. I am going to try a second canbus unit from my old android head unit I have to see if it helps at all. I think most of this is software though, as my previous android 6.0 unit px5 had none of these issues. Didn't connect the yellow wire and it never lost memory.
Ill keep you updated on my findings as well.
erronr said:
I just got this unit and installed today. I also have canbus issues. I am going to try a second canbus unit from my old android head unit I have to see if it helps at all. I think most of this is software though, as my previous android 6.0 unit px5 had none of these issues. Didn't connect the yellow wire and it never lost memory.
Ill keep you updated on my findings as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe it is software too. I think the car is reacting to something that the unit is doing. Like I said, with it on 30 second shutdown, CANBUS works everytime. I've been sent a return address and will return the canbus box tomorrow. It has to be worth a punt, but I'm pretty sure without it, the unit won't function at all, which isn't ideal, although perhaps if I go into factory settings and disable canbus it will? If not, it becomes a £300 paperweight for a few days, but there we go. Need to at least give it a try, don't I?
I wonder if it's a problem with the MCU, perhaps it's shutting down a critical piece of software? Ultimately, the MCU is what handles canbus right?
Do you experience the symptoms in the video above?
skezza said:
Shutdown delay is under Extra settings. It'll be set to Auto sleep by default, which essentially prevents the unit from shutting down. Set it to 30 seconds and you'll be laughing, except you'll be a tad annoyed because everytime you start the car, your head unit will reboot, but canbus will work 100% of the time. I believe the auto sleep could be one of the reasons we're having issues. I think the unit isn't powering itself down properly and then perhaps the canbus integration app is crashing? Would need to debug, but really, this is what they should be doing, not us.
Early signs are not positive with the yellow wire. I went out and ran the yellow accessory wire all the way to the battery. No idea if anything has changed functionally on the unit, but after re-enabling auto sleep, I was able to get the canbus to fail again fairly quickly. They've offered me a new canbus box as well, so I might take them up on that. I'm leaving the car for an hour or so now. I've disabled writing presets to memory so I can be sure the permanent live is working. It should be, I've run it direct to the battery, but there's a join in the middle and perhaps I accidentally disconnected it, we'll see..... in an hour Did you lose your FM Presets then? That's the first place I'll go then to be sure.
Frustrating.
How much did you file off? I'm looking at my climate control and I'm working out where to start. There's a plastic clip which goes into the metal bracket included with the unit. I assume we leave that but you file all the obscured plastic that surrounds it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll try and take a picture of it tonight showing how much of the tabs I filed off. I did not want to completely remove them in case things didn't work out again.
skezza said:
Bad news, wired in the yellow wire and disabled the writing the memory to NAND storage. Tested it by removing the wire, all presets lost, reconnected it and they were stored. Left for an hour, canbus working fine. 5 minutes? No, the canbus is completely broken..... the issue is definitely related to the headset powering down when you open the door and I think it's triggering the canbus on the car to deactivate. I've recorded the symptoms and will forward it to Xtrons. It's a combination of the two. Once the canbus is powered down, even having the 30 second ACC fix won't bring it back. You must wait for an hour until the car shuts down all the other subsystems. I think the reason it works with the 30 second ACC fix is because it's like a sequence, off, on, off, on etc.
In the meantime, I will request the new canbus box as they've offered. Did they ask you to return yours? They've not said to me yet, better not be back to China though. More frustratingly, this unit doesn't even work without the canbus box..... I don't think anyway.
Ultimately, if this doesn't work, you have to ask yourself what's more important...... the functionality this unit brings (which is plentiful) or the ability to boot it in 1 second. Personally, the functionality outweighs being able to boot in 1 second. It's just a shame we can't figure out what the **** is going wrong with it. Can I live with 20 second boots? Probably to be fair.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They sent me an RMA to return my old canbus. I've requested they send me the new one first so I can still use the radio; no response yet. I attempted the off after 30 seconds but it did not work for me. If what you've worked out is correct, whatever is causing my unit to briefly power up and then shut down when I open the door is killing my steering wheel controls. I left the off after 30 seconds on but I need the radio to not turn on when I unlock/open the door for me to test it. Or I supposed I could just sit in the car for a minute. I don't know what I didn't just try that...
Edit: Tried it twice...so far it worked both times.
erronr said:
I just got this unit and installed today. I also have canbus issues. I am going to try a second canbus unit from my old android head unit I have to see if it helps at all. I think most of this is software though, as my previous android 6.0 unit px5 had none of these issues. Didn't connect the yellow wire and it never lost memory.
Ill keep you updated on my findings as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is a post here that mentions changing which car is specified for the canbus integration. I found that setting when I finally found the factor settings/car settings. I may try all that say BMW on them (which is 24, 89, and 99) just for ***** and giggles.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...d-units/canbus-decoders-manufacturer-t3670266
jerkeife said:
I'll try and take a picture of it tonight showing how much of the...................
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Click to collapse
I'm happy to file down the tabs, but yeah, like you said, the unit really needs to be working before I start making wholesale irreversible changes. At least a new climate control unit is only £49 off eBay. Could be worse.
They've sent me an RMA too and offered to pay for postage; like you though, I'll end up potentially having no radio while they fiddle and piss around for a few days. I don't think the radio works properly (or even at all) without the canbus box either. If it works partially, I can live without it, but I really don't want to be driving around for a week while they fanny about sourcing a new canbus decoder for me. I'd need to look though which I'll do tonight or early tomorrow morning. I'll update once I know. If it does work, I will get it posted tomorrow so I can get a new one back next week. I wouldn't be surprised if it doesn't fix it though.
The other option is I could rip it out completely and put the OEM one in loose or partially re-fit it, but hardly ideal is it? I never had these problems with Erisin Mind you, that had no canbus at all
Did you watch the video I recorded? The fact, your description sounds exactly the same as mine, means I'm pretty sure our problems are the same. Are you a UK customer as well? Be interesting to see how quickly they operate.
The 30 second ACC fix should work, assuming your canbus hasn't bugged out already!! It's really really important to note that. Once you've bugged your CANBUS, it's done. Dead..... and it'll be dead for half an hour to an hour or so regardless of this setting. I'm not uber clued up on the car, but I found an article discussing BMW canbus and aftermarket radios and essentially, there's some kind of lockdown system. If any kind of discrepancy is detected, the canbus circuitry for the radio is shutdown. So with that in mind, I think the car detects the unit powering down, but the unit should be powering up as the door has just been opened. This then puts the car into a fail-safe and canbus into a shutdown mode. You could disconnect the battery for a quick answer, I suppose, but no point. Just wait an hour or so. Then you'll have working canbus everytime you enter the vehicle, assuming you have that 30 second mode activated.
This isn't a fix though is it? This is simply booting the radio from cold everytime you enter the car and that really shouldn't be necessary. It was one of the selling points of this particular piece of equipment.
I will try those settings tonight/tomorrow before sending it back. Has to be worth a try.
skezza said:
I believe it is software too. I think the car is reacting to something that the unit is doing. Like I said, with it on 30 second shutdown, CANBUS works everytime. I've been sent a return address and will return the canbus box tomorrow. It has to be worth a punt, but I'm pretty sure without it, the unit won't function at all, which isn't ideal, although perhaps if I go into factory settings and disable canbus it will? If not, it becomes a £300 paperweight for a few days, but there we go. Need to at least give it a try, don't I?
I wonder if it's a problem with the MCU, perhaps it's shutting down a critical piece of software? Ultimately, the MCU is what handles canbus right?
Do you experience the symptoms in the video above?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have used the unit with the canbus disabled. The radio worked, that is all I tested. I was trying to figure out why my canbus stopped before reading this post.
As of now, I don't have the 30 second thing selected and since swapping my canbus to my old one ive kept canbus working. That being said, I havent done a quick turn off/turn on. I will try that shortly.
had my joying sofia for a couple of years now and it has started playing up in the last couple of months
first problem was the screen becoming non responsive, fixed by following the soldering video
second problem was the gps fix getting REALLY screwed up when using any sat nav app, I put it down to overheating issues so had to switch the unit off and use my phone instead. not ideal
most recent issue has started over last 10 days or so - when the car is switched off and the keys removed the unit display stays on for approx 5 - 10 mins. It has no response and cannot be used, no presses do anything and there is no sound but the display is still "live"
I must admit i'm not impressed with the joying but it seems to be the best of a bad bunch where android head units are concerned as it has the greater community support
can anybody help?
Firstly, which Intel Sofia model & software version is it ?
Have you fitted larger heatsinks & fan for the main processing module ? This is especially important where the unit is mounted directly in front of the car heater.
For the shutdown, re-check the Joying sleep mode settings.
I had a Joying Sofia unit in my car till a few days ago. It started to slowly die after doing quite fine for over 2 years. Before it really gets on my nerves, I took it out and replaced it temporarily with a Coika PX5 unit. Seems that yours also slowly wants to make itself redundant...
It is absolutely normal that the unit remains on for another 5 minutes after removing the key. Yes, there is no audio output, and the screen cannot be touched. But one can fully use the unit from remote, e.g. via TeamViewer. This is how I noticed.
What it usually does however: turn off the display so the user does not see the Android screen anymore. This is no more working with your unit.
I do not know a specific solution for your problem.
I would try reflashing the unit, both MCU and Android. You will end up with a fresh unit however, because all of the Joying sw updates always wiped away all user data.
pwood999 said:
Firstly, which Intel Sofia model & software version is it ?
Have you fitted larger heatsinks & fan for the main processing module ? This is especially important where the unit is mounted directly in front of the car heater.
For the shutdown, re-check the Joying sleep mode settings.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
realzoulou said:
I had a Joying Sofia unit in my car till a few days ago. It started to slowly die after doing quite fine for over 2 years. Before it really gets on my nerves, I took it out and replaced it temporarily with a Coika PX5 unit. Seems that yours also slowly wants to make itself redundant...
It is absolutely normal that the unit remains on for another 5 minutes after removing the key. Yes, there is no audio output, and the screen cannot be touched. But one can fully use the unit from remote, e.g. via TeamViewer. This is how I noticed.
What it usually does however: turn off the display so the user does not see the Android screen anymore. This is no more working with your unit.
I do not know a specific solution for your problem.
I would try reflashing the unit, both MCU and Android. You will end up with a fresh unit however, because all of the Joying sw updates always wiped away all user data.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
to clarify -
my unit is the JY-UL124N, purchased from german warehouse 14/03/17
for the last 2 years my joying has "gone to sleep" on the immediate removal of the keys, not only in my current vehicle but also in my previous one so I do not believe it has anything to do with sleep settings. The same problem occurs when I choose "switch off" from the pulldown menu
I do not intend to try and fit heatsinks/fans - I am of the opinion that should this unit need them then surely joying should have fitted them in the first place?
I do not believe it is "absolutely normal" for the display to stay on for 5 - 10 minutes when the keys are removed/switch off is chosen, it has never done it in 2 years of ownership, has only started to do it within the last 10 days and does not do it every time
I have reflashed the unit several times, both MCU and android. same problem
to be quite honest, this unit has never really done it for me anyway - after having read the countless problems other users have suffered/endured over the last couple of years I suppose I should count myself lucky that my unit has been relatively trouble free and the problems have only recently started to manifest themselves. In my own personal opinion joying have foisted a substandard unit on the public and then sat back while we all became unpaid beta testers for them - look at all the hard work surfer63 and others have done? for free as well I might add. I should have kept my parrot asteroid smart as it was a superb unit but then parrot dropped support for it and its apps with no prior warning hence my move across to joying
I cannot put up with this thing anymore, I have never liked the music player and radio tuner interfaces anyway - they are far too "busy" and distracting. The FM tuner does not work properly. The sound is poor. The bluetooth handsfree is terrible in that people cannot hear me properly during a phone conversation. The unit is and always has been incredibly slow and laggy. The music player has a really irritating problem in that it will always play the next track alphabetically, NOT the next track of the album I am listening to. The music player also cuts off the first second or two of every track it plays.
Please everybody be aware that I do not intend to turn this into a thread knocking joying, I am just voicing my opinion that after 2 years of ownership I have not been impressed with this thing so to that end this afternoon I bought a new alpine iLX-702D. I have had many alpine units in the past and know them to be quality reliable units. And the FM tuner RDS/AF will work, properly