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My new head unit arrived the other day. Ordered it from AliExpress and it took less than a week to get here. I sought out a replacement because my previous Android head unit (Eonon GA5153) was having issues. It performed great for just over a year without any issues. A couple weeks ago my car battery started draining and I couldn't figure out why. It wasn't until I went to grab something out of my car at night that I realized the lights around the unit were still illuminated. Not only that but the fan was still going. I searched thread after thread and I couldn't seem to find an answer other than installing a toggle switch on the accessory wire. I found the Witson 9 inch unit for $245.00 and decided to give it a shot. After unboxing and wiring everything up I realized that the radio trim wouldn't go on because the edges were somewhat squared off in the back of the unit. It clearly isn't a perfect fit for my vehicle (2008 VW R32) but I wasn't going to let a small problem like some square edges prevent me from enjoying a new head unit...that and sending it back to China. I pulled out the old Dremel and used a sanding attachment at low speed and fixed the problem in less than 5 minutes. The unit looks great. Fits just as well as the Eonon did. The only issues Ive had thus far involve the unit not remembering certain things when its shut down. The LOUD beep that occurs with every touch has to be shut off every time I start the car. The radio starts up every time the car is started as well and doesn't save any of the pre-sets. The adjustments to the equalizer wont save either. If anyone could help me out with these issues Id greatly appreciate it! Thanks!
TicketToKickIt said:
My new head unit arrived the other day. Ordered it from AliExpress and it took less than a week to get here. I sought out a replacement because my previous Android head unit (Eonon GA5153) was having issues. It performed great for just over a year without any issues. A couple weeks ago my car battery started draining and I couldn't figure out why. It wasn't until I went to grab something out of my car at night that I realized the lights around the unit were still illuminated. Not only that but the fan was still going. I searched thread after thread and I couldn't seem to find an answer other than installing a toggle switch on the accessory wire. I found the Witson 9 inch unit for $245.00 and decided to give it a shot. After unboxing and wiring everything up I realized that the radio trim wouldn't go on because the edges were somewhat squared off in the back of the unit. It clearly isn't a perfect fit for my vehicle (2008 VW R32) but I wasn't going to let a small problem like some square edges prevent me from enjoying a new head unit...that and sending it back to China. I pulled out the old Dremel and used a sanding attachment at low speed and fixed the problem in less than 5 minutes. The unit looks great. Fits just as well as the Eonon did. The only issues Ive had thus far involve the unit not remembering certain things when its shut down. The LOUD beep that occurs with every touch has to be shut off every time I start the car. The radio starts up every time the car is started as well and doesn't save any of the pre-sets. The adjustments to the equalizer wont save either. If anyone could help me out with these issues Id greatly appreciate it! Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It seems like you have swapped red and yellow cables. Yellow should be always on +12 volt. Red is controlled via ACC, i.e. on when your starter switch
is in acc or running it supplies +12 volt. The yellow, always on, keeps the memory powered. i.e. radio stations are saved and so on.
[dormancy setting] - DORMANCY IF CUT ACC --> ON If you select a hidden setting to radio sleep after cutting off ACC,do not turn off the radio will remember your settings. It will be up to speed will execute and will not beeps when touching.
Hello,
Not sure how common this unit is, but I'm just trying to gain some details about it. I bought it at the weekend, it arrived yesterday and I am keen to work out what is going on. Hopefully some of you experts can help.
1. The instruction manual states that I must connect the long yellow wire to the battery, which will preserve the memory for the clock and radio settings. However, I've seen this on XDA for a similar Eonon:
Settings
scroll down to factory settings
password:126
default power status; memory of last status
apply
exit
yes to reboot
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Which essentially means all radio settings are written directly to the NAND. Why wouldn't this be enabled by default as surely it would remove all requirement for that power cable from the battery, unless that power cable is simply powering the clock? I'm wondering if using GPS time might be better for me, rather than spending an age finding a place for this cable to go. Thoughts? I will continue experimenting tonight.
2. So far, the unit has absolutely no problem connecting to my home Wi-Fi but simply won't connect to my S7 Edge Wi-Fi hotspot. Are there any tips to make this work? Perhaps it's something to do with 5GHz or something? I just need it to work with my phone otherwise it's kinda useless
3. This is probably specific to BMW E90 owners, where are you guys hiding your GPS antenna? Nobody really wants it on the dash do they as it looks nasty. I've been reading about places to hide it but some are ridiculous, like running new lines via the roof lining. Surely there's somewhere within the dash that has limited visibility of the sky, but just enough?
4. Steering controls work out of the box, but I am unable to actually set manual ones? Is there any trick to this?
Thanks in advance.
Looks like I'm going to be the crash test dummy for this unit then. So I'll give my thoughts so far:
Audio Quality - Good. Very good actually considering it's a cheap aftermarket jobby. I've not had one that wasn't a Kenwood or Pioneer sound this good. My Erisin was okay, but nothing on this. The Amplifier app (which is a really a glorified Equalizer) allows a fair amount of twiddling, and I used the optimum settings that I was given by a BMW expert and my word, it blows the OEM radio out the water. Great start.
Screen Quality - It is what it is. Its clearly not high def but then they don't claim to be. It's clear enough though and when navigating earlier I had no problem.
Touch Screen - Jury is still out. I've had a few occasions where taps wouldn't register, but you can never tell if its the CPU lagging or not. Other than that, it seems fine.
Wi-Fi - I was sceptical of how this would perform, as it's one of the biggest complaints on these forums. No problems so far though. Connected perfectly to my phone hotspot and I listened with pleasure to Spotify for a good half an hour.
Installation - Easy enough. There is a surprising amount of wiring though so you need to get a bit inventive to get it fully recessed into the dash.
Does it need the yellow wire to the battery or fuse box? Well, I'm not sure. I found the setting I spoke about above, and so far it does appear to be preserving settings correctly. The only thing that is lost is the clock so far, but the clock is automatically picked up from GPS, so it's possibly a none issue.
Bluetooth A2DP - Jury's out. I tried it with YouTube on my phone and felt it sounded a bit thin, but then music on YouTube always sounds a bit dull and lifeless I find. I really need to use Spotify, but then Spotify works well on the unit, so there's no point.............
Bluetooth Calls - Only made one. Positive feedback though. The person on the other end said it was clear and that's always good. My end, well it wasn't as good as my previous Kenwood, but it was clear enough.
Reversing Sensor Integration - Game changer. It's brilliant. I don't have the camera, and I really can't be arsed to fit one. It's a shame I can't disable the stupid triangle that appears informing you that no camera is present, because the unit displays a car with coloured sensors on the back and that's top draw. Very impressed.
I skipped out on the tyre pressure monitoring, but I've got the DAB antenna and hopefully a piece of kit that will make DAB work with my OEM aerial, coming all the way from Germany.
I now need to resolve a few issues with installation. I wanted to route the USB cables and what not to the glovebox, but how the hell I'm supposed to do that I am not sure. I will get onto a BM forum and find out. I will post some photos up when I'm finished. Also, you do have to file a bit of the climate control part, so it fits smooth. Currently, I've wedged it in without the surround but it looks a bit cruddy, so I will do that probably at the weekend.
Current unit issues I am trying to resolve:
- Cannot get the steering wheel app to work at all. The steering buttons work, perfectly fine, but the actual app itself does nothing, so I cannot configure the voice setting for example, to open OK Google.
- FM Radio is dreadful. It was never good to begin with, but it's horrific now.
- Making the previous audio source come back after a cold boot.
ok, so almost had my first snafu tonight. CANBUS integration was 90% broken. no reversing sensor functionality, other than the original beeps, and steering controls not working. I was all but ready to send a snotty e-mail to Xtrons, when I tried booting up the hardware, turning on the ignition, disconnecting the CANBUS box, and then reconnecting it. I think perhaps the car has a fail safe if it thinks something is not right with the CANBUS and just disables it. Disconnecting the CANBUS caused the unit to switch off, I then reconnected it and the unit instantly returned and importantly the clocks sync'd up.
I've noticed if the CANBUS isn't working, temperature and clocks are lost. Hopefully this won't be a recurring theme. I was messing about in factory settings earlier, so I don't want to throw any blame at Xtrons just yet.
OK, so it seems CANBUS Integration is broken when you switch the car off and then return to it after a few seconds/minutes. I am guessing this is because the unit immediately goes into sleep mode when you shutdown the car and the car doesn't like this. I can't be sure until I return to the car in a few hours as not all the subsystems power down immediately. I am going to experiment with setting the unit to power down after 10 minutes. I suppose it's about finding a happy balance. You don't want to drain your battery excessively, but you need to be able to pop into the shops without losing almost 100% of the canbus functionality.
The games continue. I will do some more research.
Right, another update. Returned to the car after an hour. Canbus working fine. Switched it off and on repeatedly and for some reason I couldn't break it. Was solid as a rock. God knows why it failed this morning then. Perhaps it's the unit rather than the car then I will keep an eye and nagg Xtrons if it's problematic going forward.
I've set the ACC delay to 10 minutes but it doesn't seem to make a difference. It still powers off :| I don't think it does it any favours it powering off though.
Another update. So, if you leave your car for a few minutes, the canbus goes dead and is nonoperational until the next time you leave it for a while . I've not timed it specifically, but it's definitely happening. Wonder if it's the car or the radio causing these problems?
I will eventually merge this all into a single reply which can form the basis of the thread for this device. I'm guessing the price is somewhat blocking it's widespread popularity. I must admit, it's not easy throwing 300+ quid at a Chinese head unit.
Anyway, another update on this Canbus issue. I think the problem is both the car and the head unit. The head unit is 'half' going into Deep Sleep when I switch the car off. It's not fully entering deep sleep. Hence when I get back in the car within a few minutes, the device is still 'powering down'. It then immediately wakes up and usually, canbus functionality is lost. I wonder if there's a command that's not being sent or something and the canbus then falls into a bad state. Once in this state, it's nearly impossible to get out of it. You just have to wait until the car is fully powered down (about 30-60 mins).
The only thing this could be, other than a software bug, is because I've not wired that yellow wire in. Now the guys at Xtrons said it's just for the memory and clock, but I've proven that you don't need that wire to store the memory and the clock can be updated via GPS. So, could it be that the yellow wire also acts as a secondary 'accessory' line? God knows. Before I start tearing my car apart to run wires or trying to access the fuse box to tap them, I will run it through the cabin and to the battery which sits in the boot. Sounds lethal and very dirty, but this to me is the simplest way of finding out what the crack is.
Bingo. I've potentially found the fix/hack for CANBUS bugs and it might not require the yellow wire to be connected. I think the issues are probably caused by not connecting up that wire, but doing so is a bit of a pain. I'll need to route it to the fusebox or battery etc. blah blah. I'll maybe try for academic reasons at the weekend.
It definitely is the unit rather than the car I think. It appears to trigger some kind of 'bad state' when you switch off the ignition. What I have observed is that the unit never quite reaches deep sleep, you then enter the car a few minutes later and the unit is essentially half powered down, at which point it continues into deep sleep then immediately 'unsleeps'. At this point, all canbus integration has been lost, SWC, PDC, all dead. I think perhaps because it's continuing to enter deep sleep when you re-trigger the ignition, it is effectively powering down the canbus subsystem. This is then dead for the next hour unless the unit will power it back on, which is surprisingly awkward.
So...... the fix/hack, at least, so far, is to set Shutdown Delay when ACC OFF to 30 seconds, rather than Auto Sleep. The auto sleep mode never fully powers down the unit and that is the whole point I guess. If you set it to 30 seconds, the unit continues to power down after you've left the vehicle and perhaps it continues the correct shutdown of the canbus system. When you re-enter and trigger the ignition, it then powers it up again properly, or so it would seem anyway. One thing I will say, in auto sleep, if you don't fully engage the ignition, this also caused issues. With it powered down, I think the unit will not come back on until ignition is at least in accessory mode, so hopefully that problem is also gone.
The ONLY negative of this fix, is the fact that the unit boots from cold every time you start the car. Booting takes, I don't know 20-30 seconds ish? Not ideal, I'll admit, but it's definitely better than losing all CANBUS integration and not being able to operate steering controls and having your parking sensors work correctly. They're important after all.
I will test, as I say, for academic reasons at the weekend and if it does work, maybe the ends justify the means, but only if I can get the wire into the bloody fusebox
Skeeza,
Thanks for posting and tracking all of your work. I have the PE9890BPL (9in screen, no cd/dvd) and have been encountering some of the same issues as you. I do believe there are issues with the CANBUS integration as I have multiple issues associated with this harness. More than 75% (installed 2 days ago so 3/4 trips) of the time I have no steering wheel controls and the unit does not link (time and temp) to the center console. I do have the yellow wire connected in my fuse box but I just discovered that the fuse I tapped into may not be always on. I found a fuse that is reportedly always on listed on XDA so I swapped it and I will report if that does/does not correct my issue.
My time also does not display correctly. I do not have it connected to 4G/LTE and I would prefer not to if I do not have to, but I will. I manually set the time and it still loses it. The radio presets have also disappeared once. Perhaps swapping the yellow wire will correct this as well.
Finally I agree that music via bluetooth is "thin." Volume is very different than the FM radio and there is no base.
FYI I just received an email back from Xtrons about my intermittent CANBUS. They didn't ask any questions about installation or suggest any firmware changes, just said they would send me a new one.
jerkeife said:
Skeeza,
Thanks for posting and tracking all of your work. I have the PE9890BPL (9in screen, no cd/dvd) and have been encountering some of the same issues as you. I do believe there are issues with the CANBUS integration as I have multiple issues associated with this harness. More than 75% (installed 2 days ago so 3/4 trips) of the time I have no steering wheel controls and the unit does not link (time and temp) to the center console. I do have the yellow wire connected in my fuse box but I just discovered that the fuse I tapped into may not be always on. I found a fuse that is reportedly always on listed on XDA so I swapped it and I will report if that does/does not correct my issue.
My time also does not display correctly. I do not have it connected to 4G/LTE and I would prefer not to if I do not have to, but I will. I manually set the time and it still loses it. The radio presets have also disappeared once. Perhaps swapping the yellow wire will correct this as well.
Finally I agree that music via bluetooth is "thin." Volume is very different than the FM radio and there is no base.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Finally, nice to have a friend on this forum with the same unit I was starting to think I was the only person who had ordered it. Essentially we have the same unit, mine has the smaller screen + drive, yours has the bigger screen and no drive, like you said. Internally, they're essentially identical. Interesting you mention about the yellow wire perhaps not being connected. I think this is what we both need to resolve, and how important it is.
Let me know how you get on. I plan on running it through the cabin direct to the battery today as an experiment, but this isn't anything long term, merely an experiment. Realistically, I'll need to do this properly or not at all. I notice all of the same problems as you though. Temperature invisible, clock wrong, steering wheel controls, broken park distance controls too (you've maybe not spotted that). I installed mine Monday, so I'm equally a novice. Which fuse are you planning on using? I've been on the BMW forum, and it seems that finding one that is constantly live is a bit of a minefield. I figured the most obvious one is central locking, or maybe ECU ? Central locking would be preferred. It's a non critical system after all.
http://fusesdiagram.com/bmw/fuse-box-diagram-bmw-3-e90.html
Potentially this shines some light on it. Is yours an E90? Mines an 2007 E90. Fuse 56 and 57 are central locking, 15amps. I will check if they correspond to that tonight and if so, they will be the ones I use for my tap.
Good to hear I'm not the only one with the CANBUS issue. I am hoping we both resolve it by connecting up that yellow wire. Like I said, only one way to find out I did have a micro fuse tap somewhere for my previous motor, but I can't find it now, so I'll order another.
The immediate hack/fix for CANBUS is to set Shutdown Delay when ACC OFF to 30 seconds, rather than Auto Sleep. Trust me, it'll work 100% of the time after, but it will also boot from cold after. I think that's the problem. It's not shutting down correctly, quite possibly because of that yellow wire.
What do you think so far? I'm pretty impressed with everything else. Did you have to file down the climate control to fit it in?
skezza said:
Finally, nice to have a friend on this forum with the same unit I was starting to think I was the only person who had ordered it. Essentially we have the same unit, mine has the smaller screen + drive, yours has the bigger screen and no drive, like you said. Internally, they're essentially identical. Interesting you mention about the yellow wire perhaps not being connected. I think this is what we both need to resolve, and how important it is.
Let me know how you get on. I plan on running it through the cabin direct to the battery today as an experiment, but this isn't anything long term, merely an experiment. Realistically, I'll need to do this properly or not at all. I notice all of the same problems as you though. Temperature invisible, clock wrong, steering wheel controls, broken park distance controls too (you've maybe not spotted that). I installed mine Monday, so I'm equally a novice. Which fuse are you planning on using? I've been on the BMW forum, and it seems that finding one that is constantly live is a bit of a minefield. I figured the most obvious one is central locking, or maybe ECU ? Central locking would be preferred. It's a non critical system after all.
http://fusesdiagram.com/bmw/fuse-box-diagram-bmw-3-e90.html
Potentially this shines some light on it. Is yours an E90? Mines an 2007 E90. Fuse 56 and 57 are central locking, 15amps. I will check if they correspond to that tonight and if so, they will be the ones I use for my tap.
Good to hear I'm not the only one with the CANBUS issue. I am hoping we both resolve it by connecting up that yellow wire. Like I said, only one way to find out I did have a micro fuse tap somewhere for my previous motor, but I can't find it now, so I'll order another.
The immediate hack/fix for CANBUS is to set Shutdown Delay when ACC OFF to 30 seconds, rather than Auto Sleep. Trust me, it'll work 100% of the time after, but it will also boot from cold after. I think that's the problem. It's not shutting down correctly, quite possibly because of that yellow wire.
What do you think so far? I'm pretty impressed with everything else. Did you have to file down the climate control to fit it in?
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Click to collapse
I have an 08 e90. I was initially tapped into fuse 57 as specified on what you posted (56 and 57 are central locking fuses on my car's fuse diagram) but found that the radio would intermittently start up for a few seconds when I would unlock the doors. When I got to work this morning I switched to fuse 47 as shown on what you posted (fuse 2 on my car's diagram) based on a post I found on Bimmerpost but I did not get a chance to test that fuse location. I could go hook up my DMM to it and check after work to see if it is still powered. Both drives I took at lunch today the radio presets and clock have not been stored but my CANBUS seemed to be functioning properly. I think the yellow wire is used for more than just retaining presets and time. Where is the Shutdown Delay? I keep seeing a mention of a Factory Settings menu but I have been unable to find it.
I do like the radio and as long as we can iron out these few issues I will be happy. The previous Xtrons I owned had a horrible bluetooth echo for anyone who was talking to me while I used the radios function. So bad that my wife would not even talk to me unless I disconnected, which made it a show stopper for me and I returned the unit. I did have to file down the climate control to get it installed but the bottom sticking down farther bothers me less than I thought it would.
Shutdown delay is under Extra settings. It'll be set to Auto sleep by default, which essentially prevents the unit from shutting down. Set it to 30 seconds and you'll be laughing, except you'll be a tad annoyed because everytime you start the car, your head unit will reboot, but canbus will work 100% of the time. I believe the auto sleep could be one of the reasons we're having issues. I think the unit isn't powering itself down properly and then perhaps the canbus integration app is crashing? Would need to debug, but really, this is what they should be doing, not us.
Early signs are not positive with the yellow wire. I went out and ran the yellow accessory wire all the way to the battery. No idea if anything has changed functionally on the unit, but after re-enabling auto sleep, I was able to get the canbus to fail again fairly quickly. They've offered me a new canbus box as well, so I might take them up on that. I'm leaving the car for an hour or so now. I've disabled writing presets to memory so I can be sure the permanent live is working. It should be, I've run it direct to the battery, but there's a join in the middle and perhaps I accidentally disconnected it, we'll see..... in an hour Did you lose your FM Presets then? That's the first place I'll go then to be sure.
Frustrating.
How much did you file off? I'm looking at my climate control and I'm working out where to start. There's a plastic clip which goes into the metal bracket included with the unit. I assume we leave that but you file all the obscured plastic that surrounds it?
Bad news, wired in the yellow wire and disabled the writing the memory to NAND storage. Tested it by removing the wire, all presets lost, reconnected it and they were stored. Left for an hour, canbus working fine. 5 minutes? No, the canbus is completely broken..... the issue is definitely related to the headset powering down when you open the door and I think it's triggering the canbus on the car to deactivate. I've recorded the symptoms and will forward it to Xtrons. It's a combination of the two. Once the canbus is powered down, even having the 30 second ACC fix won't bring it back. You must wait for an hour until the car shuts down all the other subsystems. I think the reason it works with the 30 second ACC fix is because it's like a sequence, off, on, off, on etc.
In the meantime, I will request the new canbus box as they've offered. Did they ask you to return yours? They've not said to me yet, better not be back to China though. More frustratingly, this unit doesn't even work without the canbus box..... I don't think anyway.
Ultimately, if this doesn't work, you have to ask yourself what's more important...... the functionality this unit brings (which is plentiful) or the ability to boot it in 1 second. Personally, the functionality outweighs being able to boot in 1 second. It's just a shame we can't figure out what the **** is going wrong with it. Can I live with 20 second boots? Probably to be fair.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=etgYOHwAe04
Video of the canbus failing.
I just got this unit and installed today. I also have canbus issues. I am going to try a second canbus unit from my old android head unit I have to see if it helps at all. I think most of this is software though, as my previous android 6.0 unit px5 had none of these issues. Didn't connect the yellow wire and it never lost memory.
Ill keep you updated on my findings as well.
erronr said:
I just got this unit and installed today. I also have canbus issues. I am going to try a second canbus unit from my old android head unit I have to see if it helps at all. I think most of this is software though, as my previous android 6.0 unit px5 had none of these issues. Didn't connect the yellow wire and it never lost memory.
Ill keep you updated on my findings as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe it is software too. I think the car is reacting to something that the unit is doing. Like I said, with it on 30 second shutdown, CANBUS works everytime. I've been sent a return address and will return the canbus box tomorrow. It has to be worth a punt, but I'm pretty sure without it, the unit won't function at all, which isn't ideal, although perhaps if I go into factory settings and disable canbus it will? If not, it becomes a £300 paperweight for a few days, but there we go. Need to at least give it a try, don't I?
I wonder if it's a problem with the MCU, perhaps it's shutting down a critical piece of software? Ultimately, the MCU is what handles canbus right?
Do you experience the symptoms in the video above?
skezza said:
Shutdown delay is under Extra settings. It'll be set to Auto sleep by default, which essentially prevents the unit from shutting down. Set it to 30 seconds and you'll be laughing, except you'll be a tad annoyed because everytime you start the car, your head unit will reboot, but canbus will work 100% of the time. I believe the auto sleep could be one of the reasons we're having issues. I think the unit isn't powering itself down properly and then perhaps the canbus integration app is crashing? Would need to debug, but really, this is what they should be doing, not us.
Early signs are not positive with the yellow wire. I went out and ran the yellow accessory wire all the way to the battery. No idea if anything has changed functionally on the unit, but after re-enabling auto sleep, I was able to get the canbus to fail again fairly quickly. They've offered me a new canbus box as well, so I might take them up on that. I'm leaving the car for an hour or so now. I've disabled writing presets to memory so I can be sure the permanent live is working. It should be, I've run it direct to the battery, but there's a join in the middle and perhaps I accidentally disconnected it, we'll see..... in an hour Did you lose your FM Presets then? That's the first place I'll go then to be sure.
Frustrating.
How much did you file off? I'm looking at my climate control and I'm working out where to start. There's a plastic clip which goes into the metal bracket included with the unit. I assume we leave that but you file all the obscured plastic that surrounds it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll try and take a picture of it tonight showing how much of the tabs I filed off. I did not want to completely remove them in case things didn't work out again.
skezza said:
Bad news, wired in the yellow wire and disabled the writing the memory to NAND storage. Tested it by removing the wire, all presets lost, reconnected it and they were stored. Left for an hour, canbus working fine. 5 minutes? No, the canbus is completely broken..... the issue is definitely related to the headset powering down when you open the door and I think it's triggering the canbus on the car to deactivate. I've recorded the symptoms and will forward it to Xtrons. It's a combination of the two. Once the canbus is powered down, even having the 30 second ACC fix won't bring it back. You must wait for an hour until the car shuts down all the other subsystems. I think the reason it works with the 30 second ACC fix is because it's like a sequence, off, on, off, on etc.
In the meantime, I will request the new canbus box as they've offered. Did they ask you to return yours? They've not said to me yet, better not be back to China though. More frustratingly, this unit doesn't even work without the canbus box..... I don't think anyway.
Ultimately, if this doesn't work, you have to ask yourself what's more important...... the functionality this unit brings (which is plentiful) or the ability to boot it in 1 second. Personally, the functionality outweighs being able to boot in 1 second. It's just a shame we can't figure out what the **** is going wrong with it. Can I live with 20 second boots? Probably to be fair.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They sent me an RMA to return my old canbus. I've requested they send me the new one first so I can still use the radio; no response yet. I attempted the off after 30 seconds but it did not work for me. If what you've worked out is correct, whatever is causing my unit to briefly power up and then shut down when I open the door is killing my steering wheel controls. I left the off after 30 seconds on but I need the radio to not turn on when I unlock/open the door for me to test it. Or I supposed I could just sit in the car for a minute. I don't know what I didn't just try that...
Edit: Tried it twice...so far it worked both times.
erronr said:
I just got this unit and installed today. I also have canbus issues. I am going to try a second canbus unit from my old android head unit I have to see if it helps at all. I think most of this is software though, as my previous android 6.0 unit px5 had none of these issues. Didn't connect the yellow wire and it never lost memory.
Ill keep you updated on my findings as well.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is a post here that mentions changing which car is specified for the canbus integration. I found that setting when I finally found the factor settings/car settings. I may try all that say BMW on them (which is 24, 89, and 99) just for ***** and giggles.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...d-units/canbus-decoders-manufacturer-t3670266
jerkeife said:
I'll try and take a picture of it tonight showing how much of the...................
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm happy to file down the tabs, but yeah, like you said, the unit really needs to be working before I start making wholesale irreversible changes. At least a new climate control unit is only £49 off eBay. Could be worse.
They've sent me an RMA too and offered to pay for postage; like you though, I'll end up potentially having no radio while they fiddle and piss around for a few days. I don't think the radio works properly (or even at all) without the canbus box either. If it works partially, I can live without it, but I really don't want to be driving around for a week while they fanny about sourcing a new canbus decoder for me. I'd need to look though which I'll do tonight or early tomorrow morning. I'll update once I know. If it does work, I will get it posted tomorrow so I can get a new one back next week. I wouldn't be surprised if it doesn't fix it though.
The other option is I could rip it out completely and put the OEM one in loose or partially re-fit it, but hardly ideal is it? I never had these problems with Erisin Mind you, that had no canbus at all
Did you watch the video I recorded? The fact, your description sounds exactly the same as mine, means I'm pretty sure our problems are the same. Are you a UK customer as well? Be interesting to see how quickly they operate.
The 30 second ACC fix should work, assuming your canbus hasn't bugged out already!! It's really really important to note that. Once you've bugged your CANBUS, it's done. Dead..... and it'll be dead for half an hour to an hour or so regardless of this setting. I'm not uber clued up on the car, but I found an article discussing BMW canbus and aftermarket radios and essentially, there's some kind of lockdown system. If any kind of discrepancy is detected, the canbus circuitry for the radio is shutdown. So with that in mind, I think the car detects the unit powering down, but the unit should be powering up as the door has just been opened. This then puts the car into a fail-safe and canbus into a shutdown mode. You could disconnect the battery for a quick answer, I suppose, but no point. Just wait an hour or so. Then you'll have working canbus everytime you enter the vehicle, assuming you have that 30 second mode activated.
This isn't a fix though is it? This is simply booting the radio from cold everytime you enter the car and that really shouldn't be necessary. It was one of the selling points of this particular piece of equipment.
I will try those settings tonight/tomorrow before sending it back. Has to be worth a try.
skezza said:
I believe it is software too. I think the car is reacting to something that the unit is doing. Like I said, with it on 30 second shutdown, CANBUS works everytime. I've been sent a return address and will return the canbus box tomorrow. It has to be worth a punt, but I'm pretty sure without it, the unit won't function at all, which isn't ideal, although perhaps if I go into factory settings and disable canbus it will? If not, it becomes a £300 paperweight for a few days, but there we go. Need to at least give it a try, don't I?
I wonder if it's a problem with the MCU, perhaps it's shutting down a critical piece of software? Ultimately, the MCU is what handles canbus right?
Do you experience the symptoms in the video above?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have used the unit with the canbus disabled. The radio worked, that is all I tested. I was trying to figure out why my canbus stopped before reading this post.
As of now, I don't have the 30 second thing selected and since swapping my canbus to my old one ive kept canbus working. That being said, I havent done a quick turn off/turn on. I will try that shortly.
Hi,
There's an issue that has been mildly bugging me since I have had my Android Head Unit. Just wondering if I'm the only one or if this is a known issue.
Sometime when starting the car and the Head Unit powers up, the bluetooth and Wifi radios are not working. My phone cannot connect via bluetooth and the Wifi activation slider in the Wifi Setting menu will not move to the "activated" position.
Usually, a full system restart fixes the issue but I've had occurence where a second reboot in a row is necessary!
This has been going since I have had the unit. I didn't stay on stock ROM for long as I moved to Malaysk first and now using Hal9k ROM. Both ROMs exhibit the same issue. Point is I don't know if the stock ROM had this issue.
Head Unit is equipped with a MD725 version 1 radio module.
Does somebody have a workaround (other than rebooting)?
Thanks!
EDIT: Please check this post for a detailed explanation of the cause of the problem, the resolution process and finally provides fixes for it.
psyko_chewbacca said:
Hi,
There's an issue that has been mildly bugging me since I have had my Android Head Unit. Just wondering if I'm the only one or if this is a known issue.
Sometime when starting the car and the Head Unit powers up, the bluetooth and Wifi radios are not working. My phone cannot connect via bluetooth and the Wifi activation slider in the Wifi Setting menu will not move to the "activated" position.
Usually, a full system restart fixes the issue but I've had occurence where a second reboot in a row is necessary!
This has been going since I have had the unit. I didn't stay on stock ROM for long as I moved to Malaysk first and now using Hal9k ROM. Both ROMs exhibit the same issue. Point is I don't know if the stock ROM had this issue.
Head Unit is equipped with a MD725 version 1 radio module.
Does somebody have a workaround (other than rebooting)?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How disappointing to see that no one has replied. I purchased a Seicane unit from an Amazon seller two weeks ago, and among the things I noticed immediately was the frequent, seemingly random WIFI/BT disconnect. As you described, it happens when waking up. Either pressing the reset button or holding the power button for >5 seconds has returned their functionality every time (so far). But, in corresponding with Seicane, they act like it's the first time they've heard of it. They want to replace the WIFI module. But, I'm sure that'll take weeks, and by the time it gets here, I'm outside the return window with Amazon.
I'm fully stock, and I really like the fit and finish in my Tundra.
Can I thread-jack and ask you some questions to see if you have other issues like me?
- Google account sync is missing calendar (and chrome too, for that matter). That means any calendar app (stock or 3rd party) cannot access events. Do you see calendar under settings/accounts/google/sync?
- Side-loading apks is a no-go. Whether I use file manager, or the default "Apk-installer", when I try to install an APK (even OEM legit ones on the internal memory), I get a momentary flash of "package install.." then right back to the file list. Seicane doesn't seem to understand the issue, even after I sent them a video of how it's behaving.
- Fader is not working. I do have left/right, but when I move fader to rear, everything goes quiet. It seems front and rear are combined, because full front has sound coming from all speakers. That's not a deal breaker since I generally listen to podcasts, and not music.
Just knowing there's someone else out there with similar issue(s) is comforting.
Seicane = Bad Customer Service, No Support after they have your money
I purchased a Seicane Nav/Radio Unit back in June 2018, and from day 1 the Parrot Bluetooth module I paid extra for has never worked. Did everything recommended, used their BT apk, tried setting up via Phone apk, changed name of BT module, change passcode to 0000, 1234, 01234, but it never saw my BT enable Phone or Tablet that was within 2 foot of the Head Unit, nor did my phone or tablet ever see the Head Unit.
I have been going back and forth with Seicane, and after 3 months got them to send me a replacement BT Module. They shipped me an unmarked module that does not even look like its Bluetooth other than the 10 pins at the bottom of it for mounting. Oh, no instructions, no explanations, nor did they tell me the Head Unit needed to be COMPLETELY disassembled to get at the existing BT module. Once opened it was apparent that the module was soldered in requiring de-soldering of the old, and soldering in the new. Problem was while inspecting how to do this I found 3 SMD resistors on the main board that were damaged during manufacturing, so now I know why the BT never worked! I assume they knew it also, and that is why they sent me the replacement module knowing that if I opened the case, the factory warrantee was then void. So now they want me to spend $60 to ship the Head Unit back to them in China, and of course, they will void the warrantee and change me $60 to get it back.......NEVER AGAIN WITH SEICANE.................
Seicane:
CPU: 8 core 64-bit CPU Coretex-A53 @ 1.5G
Memory: 3891
Kernel Version: 4.4.93+ [email protected] #263 Wed May 9 09:36:56 CST 2018
Build Number: px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007 end.hct.20180515.095719 test-keys
MCU Version: MTCE_KLD_V2.80_1 Mar 1 2018 16:54:22
Model: px5(800x480)
Android version: 8.0.0
Android security patch level: October 5, 2017
I have similar problems, i thought that only the "XRC" units (MTCE_XRC_...) ones had the problem with WiFi and Bluetooth not working sometimes when you start.
From what i saw, a restart sometimes fixes it.
Somebody said that entering into recovery and then restarting seems to always fix the issue, but it's still annoying.
Until somebody finds a "real" solution, we're stuck with restarting the unit if the WiFi/BT doesn't work.
You could try using an USB adapter for the WiFi and Bluetooth, the ones i had (for my PC) didn't work, probably we need something designed for Android.
P.S. the problem is not from custom ROMs, it does the same with the ROM that it came with.
Well, that's not very promising. I initiated the refund/return process for mine with Amazon. I have about 10 days left before the return window closes. So glad I bought from AZ vs. AliExpress or directly from Seicane.
There's another seller of the PX5 (Hizpo) that is custom fit to my Tundra, but uses the button-less trim. I'm hoping that it doesn't have this issue.
On an aside, I figured out why my APKs wouldn't side-load. Under settings/car/factory defaults/other is a setting called "install apps" which was set to disabled. Switching it to enabled allowed me to install all my favorite 'patched' apks. Unfortunately, the intermittent wifi/BT is a deal breaker. I'm hoping Seicane can come up with a fix/workaround suggestion in the coming days - else, this one is getting picked up by the big brown truck.
verszipo said:
I have similar problems, i thought that only the "XRC" units (MTCE_XRC_...) ones had the problem with WiFi and Bluetooth not working sometimes when you start.
From what i saw, a restart sometimes fixes it.
Somebody said that entering into recovery and then restarting seems to always fix the issue, but it's still annoying.
Until somebody finds a "real" solution, we're stuck with restarting the unit if the WiFi/BT doesn't work.
You could try using an USB adapter for the WiFi and Bluetooth, the ones i had (for my PC) didn't work, probably we need something designed for Android.
P.S. the problem is not from custom ROMs, it does the same with the ROM that it came with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, if I can't find a satisfactory solution, my backup plan is to mount a USB hub behind the radio and use a USB Wifi/BT adapter.
From what I read, the Comfast WU725B is compatible with the android headunit. It's probably the same chipset that is used on the internal MD725 module of the head unit!
psyko_chewbacca said:
Yeah, if I can't find a satisfactory solution, my backup plan is to mount a USB hub behind the radio and use a USB Wifi/BT adapter.
From what I read, the Comfast WU725B is compatible with the android headunit. It's probably the same chipset that is used on the internal MD725 module of the head unit!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've got that Hizpo arriving on Wed. If it has the same issue running stock (as the Seicane XRC) does, then I'll be happy to give the WU725B adapter a go. I just wonder why there aren't more people complaining about this phenomenon given the popularity of the PX5 systems.
psyko_chewbacca said:
Yeah, if I can't find a satisfactory solution, my backup plan is to mount a USB hub behind the radio and use a USB Wifi/BT adapter.
From what I read, the Comfast WU725B is compatible with the android headunit. It's probably the same chipset that is used on the internal MD725 module of the head unit!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd be interested to know if this works. I found a thread where others have done that to fix BT call issues. Apparently it's not just plug and play in most cases.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...ons-development/bluetooth-usb-dongle-t3684383
Same unit, different issues...
Hazard15301 said:
I'd be interested to know if this works. I found a thread where others have done that to fix BT call issues. Apparently it's not just plug and play in most cases.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/an...ons-development/bluetooth-usb-dongle-t3684383
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
I think I have the same unit - I too had issues with Bluetooth, but after a factory reset it seemed to behave itself. The only downside is the hardware buttons on the facia (its a merc slk 200 type facia) are now not working! navi, setup, BT, 1-6, power etc all not responding. I'm a bit of a newb when it comes to the hardware side of these android head units - am I missing some sort of interface APK that helps the hardware buttons talk to the android OS?
Sorry for thread jacking, but I'm starting to get a bad feeling - I purchased from seicane direclty and so far, the support feels like one guy doing it after he gats back from the factory...
For ref I took some pics and a video of the issue - any hints?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WRrc69Qr3CpFaTq7A
I believe it MTCE_MX2_V2.94_1 on 8 core 64-bit coretex-A53 @ 1.5Ghz
px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007
xboson said:
Hi,
I think I have the same unit - I too had issues with Bluetooth, but after a factory reset it seemed to behave itself. The only downside is the hardware buttons on the facia (its a merc slk 200 type facia) are now not working! navi, setup, BT, 1-6, power etc all not responding. I'm a bit of a newb when it comes to the hardware side of these android head units - am I missing some sort of interface APK that helps the hardware buttons talk to the android OS?
Sorry for thread jacking, but I'm starting to get a bad feeling - I purchased from seicane direclty and so far, the support feels like one guy doing it after he gats back from the factory...
For ref I took some pics and a video of the issue - any hints?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WRrc69Qr3CpFaTq7A
I believe it MTCE_MX2_V2.94_1 on 8 core 64-bit coretex-A53 @ 1.5Ghz
px5-userdebug 8.0.0 OPR5.170623.007
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need to go into the Factory Settings menu, under the Panel Key Study header and manually set all your physical buttons
Hazard15301 said:
You need to go into the Factory Settings menu, under the Panel Key Study header and manually set all your physical buttons
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
Yep - tried that - a couple of times (factory settings code 126) - tried reset and panel key study - nothing appears on screen. Tried waiting a minute or two but no dice. I'll try again just to be sure and report back.
---------- Post added at 10:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:52 PM ----------
xboson said:
Hi,
Yep - tried that - a couple of times (factory settings code 126) - tried reset and panel key study - nothing appears on screen. Tried waiting a minute or two but no dice. I'll try again just to be sure and report back.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep - so just tried that page again - waitied about a minute and a half - nothing showed up - blank page & no response to any hardware buttons on the facia - the canbus based steering wheel answer, hangup and volume controls work as expected. So it should just detect the hardware buttons no issue? No special apk needed?
erkme73 said:
I've got that Hizpo arriving on Wed. If it has the same issue running stock (as the Seicane XRC) does, then I'll be happy to give the WU725B adapter a go. I just wonder why there aren't more people complaining about this phenomenon given the popularity of the PX5 systems.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The new hizpo unit worked GREAT! No dropouts. Well, at least not for the first 10 min... After that the screen went dark. Resetting and power-cycling made it beep and the buttons illuminated green for about 2 seconds... But that was it.
I did an exchange through Amazon and the replacement arrived today. On power up, no wifi or BT. ARG. I did a power-cycle, and both came back. I went to vehicle several more times during they day/evening, and despite cold booting, wifi resumed each time. Fingers crossed, but I'm guessing it will disappoint me soon.
I sent a message to the seller asking for stock MCU and firmware images, but I'm sure that will be met with crickets.
Will update if anything changes.
That didn't take long. Got in truck this am to find no wifi. Took FOUR resets for it to finally wake the wifi/bt. Really frustrating. Took a video and sent it to the Amazon seller (JBY TECH) asking what I need to do to get a functioning unit. If I do another exchange it'll be the third unit. This sucks.
Wish I could get a non-XRC unit that fits my Sequoia.
Growing more frustrated and impatient by the day, I opted to remove the back of the radio (which leaves the factory warranty seal intact) to get a better view of the wifi/bt components. The thing is tiny - smaller than a postage stamp. It appears to be soldered directly to the main board at 8 points - though the ones on the left are hard to identify due to the hot-glue applied to the antenna wire connection point. These points are not surface-mount sized. A steady hand with a standard iron should be able to comfortably resolder these connections. I would attempt it if out of warranty and all other options have been exhausted.
I did push down on each joint before re-assembling the unit. After several power-cycles, WIFI/BT remain on. The acid test will be in the AM. I am reluctant to even post this now, as I don't want to jinx it. I will post updates as they happen.
erkme73 said:
Growing more frustrated and impatient by the day, I opted to remove the back of the radio (which leaves the factory warranty seal intact) to get a better view of the wifi/bt components. The thing is tiny - smaller than a postage stamp. It appears to be soldered directly to the main board at 8 points - though the ones on the left are hard to identify due to the hot-glue applied to the antenna wire connection point. These points are not surface-mount sized. A steady hand with a standard iron should be able to comfortably resolder these connections. I would attempt it if out of warranty and all other options have been exhausted.
I did push down on each joint before re-assembling the unit. After several power-cycles, WIFI/BT remain on. The acid test will be in the AM. I am reluctant to even post this now, as I don't want to jinx it. I will post updates as they happen.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The seller of my radio thinks I have a bad chip as well. He's sending me a new chip, should be here monday. So I'll be doing this exact procedure when it gets here. I think someone else said there's ten total solder points, and two are real close together and very easy to short together.
I was wondering why it is that wifi and bt will remain functional across short term sleep cycles, but only seems to act up when left in sleep overnight (at least that's how it works in my case). Not sure if that points to a software or hardware issue.
Hazard15301 said:
The seller of my radio thinks I have a bad chip as well. He's sending me a new chip, should be here monday. So I'll be doing this exact procedure when it gets here. I think someone else said there's ten total solder points, and two are real close together and very easy to short together.
I was wondering why it is that wifi and bt will remain functional across short term sleep cycles, but only seems to act up when left in sleep overnight (at least that's how it works in my case). Not sure if that points to a software or hardware issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm no engineer, but if I unplug all wires from the back of the radio and leave it de-energized for an hour, I would think that any residual electrons would be gone - or at least comparable to an overnight connected shut down. The fact that it still works after that hour makes me think it's hardware.
The one variable that changes overnight is temperature. The unit cools down completely overnight, and by morning the symptoms return. I suppose I could take the radio and put it in the freezer/refrigerator for a few hours and see if recurs.
If it is temp, that would lend credence to poor electrical connections - with the most likely suspect being the hand-soldered points (not the SM-ed board components). Admittedly, it's a stretch.
If your seller has OK'ed the replacement of your board, if I were you, I'd practice with the old one and re-solder those 8-10 points.
I recall reading posts elsewhere stating that keeping pressure on that board resolved the issue (one guy wrote about using tape!).
I just received word from the seller that they suspect the "core board" to be the problem. They want me to open the case and unplug/replug it to see if that resolves it. I've attached their photo. If it does not solve the problem, they suggest replacing it, and they provided a link to the latest XRC firmware (XRC8.0_20180510). I'm downloading it now.
Looks like when daylight comes, I'll be doing some vendor-approved dissection...
New daylight, and with permission to disassemble, I managed to get a better picture of the wifi/bt module. Unless there are pins underneath the board, it really looks like 8 connections.
I removed the 'core board' and replaced it. No wifi/bt. After third power-cycle it came up.
I really think this is temperature-related. By the 2nd or 3rd reboot, the electronics have warmed up and it starts working. Now I have to wait until it gets back to ambient temp to do more testing. To prove this theory, I've placed it in my freezer. I'll give this a go in about 30 min. If it stop working again, I think that would be pretty conclusive. Will update as I proceed.
After leaving the unit in the freezer for 30 minutes, the wifi/bt once again stopped responding. In fact, it stayed off for about 5-10 minutes (regardless of the number of power-cycles/resets). I even held down on the wifi chip and it made no difference. Only after it had completely thawed out and warmed up did it re-enable.
I'm going to relay this back to the seller. FWIW, since they provided me with a factory rom and MCU image, I took this chance to install the Hal9k rom. WOW is that worth it...
erkme73 said:
I just received word from the seller that they suspect the "core board" to be the problem. They want me to open the case and unplug/replug it to see if that resolves it. I've attached their photo. If it does not solve the problem, they suggest replacing it, and they provided a link to the latest XRC firmware (XRC8.0_20180510). I'm downloading it now.
Looks like when daylight comes, I'll be doing some vendor-approved dissection...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could you upload the MCU update image?
Interesting stuff about the temperature. Quite frankly I had this ruled out since rebooting through recovery fixes the issue 100% of the time while normal reboots only works sporadically. I was under the impression that the issue was related to the MCU or some other component not waking up the device from sleep when unit wakes up.
Hi Everyone,
This video/thread has been long overdue for me but due to work and family it has been hectic. Anyways finally able to put a video together, hopefully it helps you guys and you get to enjoy it as well .
In this video I review my Joying HU which I used for over 2 years. In the past I have had 2 different units from joying over a span of 4 to 5 years. This is(was) the 3rd one.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yEMUVsHDvsk
HU was installed on a 2013 Toyota Corolla but most of these have same specs across the model range. After using this unit for 2 years (everyday), below are my findings.
Following still work:
OS, Bluetooth, Navigation, Wifi, NFC, Music, Buttons, Knobs, USB ports, SD card slots, mic, backup camera
What broke:
-Screen touch input is 80% dead so need to use a mouse, only top and bottom portion work now. This happened about a year and half in
-Keeps resetting itself (not restarting); takes about 30 minutes
-Keeps draining my car battery, randomly started happening few months back
-Dash cam does not work no more, Dash cam software is not the best and joying dash cams are useless.
-Very slow to load Apps specially GPS even if ram is cleared
-Bluetooth call quality is bad now, probably the mic. Other people on call complain of a "knocking" sound
-Radio quality is go down the hill, not sure what happened to it
Above problems are deal breakers, I tried everything like updating, resetting, clearing cache, memory management, cooling options, rechecked all wiring, tested on work bench etc etc...
At end of day this unit was only built to last a few years I guess. When I notified Joying the answer was "Buy another one".
At the moment I have my OEM HU but might buy another one from different manufacturer down the line
Let me know if you guys have had similar issues or if a unit lasted you for a longer period of time
During a recent sale at AliExpress, I ordered an Android headunit that replaces the factory screen for my 2016 B8.5 Audi. I ordered from the "Nunoo" store due to them listing a Snapdragon 665, and I ordered the supposed 8 GB/128 GB model for my MMI car.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805118631091.html
The unit hasn't shipped, so I messaged the store asking what's up and making sure that the order was going to fit my particular car (needed an Air Bag light relocation cable and AMI cable). I also asked to confirm it actually had the Qualcomm chip. The seller messaged me back saying that it would instead ship with a 8581 processor due to issues with the 665:
"The cpu will become 8581, because 665 CPU with some problem"
I'm getting sketchy vibes. Is there any hope that these units are worth messing with? Since ordering this, I've done some more reading around and see where Chinese sourced units often mis-report hardware, versions of OS's, etc.
I'm currently running an android box that attaches to the stock, non-touch screen in the car and allows for wireless Android Auto. It connects to Canbus and the MMI audio system, and is generally OK. It just has no touch screen, so I thought I'd upgrade. Should I bail on this order before they try to ship and look around for another seller?
Is there a Android head unit issues for dummies I should read to catch up on the state of these things?
Heya, the Listing only mentions an 8 Core Processor in the Pictures itself. It mentions the Snapdragon 665 Version down below but that is not selectable. I only know that because I myself just ordered one of those for my A6 4F MMI 2G. I had to search a bit for that Version. Just click a few different Listings on Aliexpress if you want that version.
I myself used an Android Head Unit in my Older A6 4B with a generic 8 Core CPU and that was more than enough Performance. it never had any lags or other things.
My Unit used an UIS7862, the 8581 seems to be a less powerful version of it. It could be Powerful enough to work without Lags but if you want to be really sure maybe search for reports of Headunits with the Spreadtrum UIS8581 CPU or try finding the Snapdragon 665 Version but be prepared that it's gonna be a whole lot more costly. And don't settle for the 625 Version, that is a pretty old CPU and all I could ever find about those Versions where lackluster performance and other issues
My unit finally shipped, so we'll see what I get.
Sweet, please report about that CPU Version Performance and stuff
It's sadly quite hard to find any Information about the Nunoo Headunits.
I'll try to keep this updated about the 665 Version that I just bought too
Well..... don't keep us in suspense.
Report back because i'm looking to buy a Nunoo 665 as well.
Sure, I put it in a couple of weeks ago. I did receive the 8581 chip version.
Some notes on use:
Install went about as expected, with the exception that to mount the included dash bezel that the screen attaches to over the old hole, you can only access two screws on the new mounting plate instead of 3...unless you want to drill into your original dash to pass the third screw. I doubt I do that as I want it to be reversable.
I did have problems with an ABS light. My car has the combo hazard button and passenger seat Air Bag light (to show if passenger AB is disabled due to not having enough weight in the seat). Once confirmed the wiring hookup configuration for the hazard button relocation harness, I was a bit frustrated that the light was still on. It might have eventually cleared itself after a few ignition cycles, but I really wanted to figure it out so I used my OBDEleven OBD2 scanner to reset the code (ABS ground fault). No problems since.
I haven't 100% put the dash back together yet because I'm going to try a GPS splitter cable to tie into the stock antenna instead of using the included one. I tried the included one with a GPS testing app and could never get acceptable signal strength vs what I could get on my phone, even if I ran the included receiver all the way to the top of the windshield. This probably is irrelevant as it doesn't affect Android Auto/CarPlay, which rely on the phone GPS. I'm just curious about the built in navigation and it wasn't a bunch to spend to try out. Once that comes in, I'll put the main dash bezel back in the car. If it doesn't work, that's not a deal breaker. Was just curious if I could improve things. If it does work, I don't know why this wouldn't really be the included option vs a whole receiver. (BTW, if anybody else goes this route, get the right angle SMA connector. The straight one won't fit in the space available.) https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256...st_main.5.1c3518024jcmmd&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
Wireless connection is iffy at times. Sometimes it's great, sometimes I can watch the bluetooth connect on my phone then try to hand off to wifi for Android Auto and it will just cycle the wifi connection to the head unit over and over. Other times it works right away and stay stable. Can't figure out if there's something that can resolve this. Still playing around. Wired Android Auto is fine. According to the seller, I have the latest software and Zlink versions. Is there a way to update Zlink OTA if a new version becomes available? I can go into the settings and check and it says I'm up to date, but just wonder if that's possible in the future. I've not done a ton of research, but what I have says Zlink licensing might be weird. This inconsistency is my biggest annoyance with the unit.
Unlike my old unit that just tapped into the factory screen, I can't long press the steering wheel phone button to activate the assistant. That's annoying. Have to do verbal commands only or use the touch screen button. Not the end of the world, I just got used to using the hard button.
Just like my other unit, the Audi console volume knob allows you to skip forward and back (by pushing sideways on the knob) just like the stock MMI, however, pushing it down only mutes audio. It does not behave like the MMI and pause streaming audio. So whatever you're listening to plays in the background during the mute. Annoying for podcasts and books. You can touch the screen, but having that hard button work would be nice.
This unit tries to emulate the HVAC temp changes that happen on the stock interface. Audi shows whichever side of the car is turning up or down the temp and what the setting is on the screen. However, this unit just puts up a graphic that instead of the temp shows "HI". So half done UI. My old unit had no HVAC interface at all when in Android mode.
I've still got the protective film on the screen right now until I take it back off to put in the stock bezel, but I could do with a bit brighter screen. It's not unreadable, but 20% brighter would be nice for sunny days.
Just like the old box I had for Android Auto, this one doesn't change the day/night mode on maps. You have to manually set it to dark or night if you want it to change depending on lighting conditions. At least it's easier to access in the menu now that I have a touch screen.
I logged into my Google account on the stock Android part of the unit to install a couple of apps (GPS tester, etc.). Somehow the thing deleted ALL my google contacts when the account synced up. I restored them from trash and could see the device that did it, so I know it's this unit. It was fine for a few days, then did it again. Might be when I connect to wifi at home to go to the Play store that it does it. Probably a setting to turn off sync, but I haven't looked into it yet.
It currently mutes Android Auto if I switch to one of the stock screen views except I think the backup camera. I think that it initially did it on the camera, but there's a setting to change that. I just need to find that for if I look at one of the other screens like drive mode.
Overall, the navigation speed is good enough. If I can get the auto-connect wifi cycling resolved, I'll feel a lot better. Would I buy this unit again? I might try one of the other brands honestly. Just because this one feels ALMOST there, but just cheaped out a bit on processor and screen. But if you get a good deal, it's totally functional with a few quirks.
The other brand I was considering seems to have more sales. That is Coika. Who knows if they're really the same thing from the same factory. Wouldn't be surprised, but it would be good to compare back to back. I'm just not going to do it Either of these options are half as expensive as RSNAV or some of the other more Audi forum prominent brands.
That in depth enough?
Conveniently the GPS cable arrived today that allowed me to tap into the car's GPS antenna. Big win if you ever want to use the built in navigation. Works great, although the cable I ordered is a bit tight. Now I can pull out the other GPS antenna that I had routed behind the glove box to go up the A pillar.
While installing, I googled B8.5 MMI GPS hookups to make sure I had the right cable off the back of the MMI unit. Apparently I wasn't exactly an original thinker, at RSNAV already offered these cables. This is the way to go and the AliExpress sellers should 100% include these instead of the full antenna that you have to mount somewhere.
Audi Original GPS Antenna Splitter Cable for S2, S3, S4
Audi Original GPS Antenna Splitter Cable for RSNAV S2, S3, S4 Android system on Audi Vehicles with Audi Navigation System only. - Best reception of GPS signal for your RSNAV S2,S3, S4 Android system - GPS hot start, super faster time sync - Work both for Audi MMI system and S2, S3, S4, This is...
rsnav.com
*I have not tested the stock nav yet, but I never use that anyway. I'll try to remember to look to confirm that's still working. Might be some kind of time interface into the car that it grabs from GPS, so it might still be important. I'll do it before I reinstall the dash. I just wired it enough to verify via the GPS testing app that it was better than the included antenna (it was).
Thank you Andy, much more detail than i expected.
Really appreciate the quick writeup esp the notes on the gps issue and getting a splitter.
Andy S said:
This probably is irrelevant as it doesn't affect Android Auto/CarPlay, which rely on the phone GPS. I'm just curious about the built in navigation and it wasn't a bunch to spend to try out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great review and very interesting because I'm looking at getting the same car. Just a small point, Android Auto does in fact use the car's GPS where possible. Waze uses the phone GPS but Google Maps and Sygic can use the car's GPS, for example.
Cutprods said:
Great review and very interesting because I'm looking at getting the same car. Just a small point, Android Auto does in fact use the car's GPS where possible. Waze uses the phone GPS but Google Maps and Sygic can use the car's GPS, for example.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I doubt it would in this case, as Zlink as I understand it is kind of a hack to make AA work. On a truly integrated solution, I'm sure you are right.
Andy S said:
I doubt it would in this case, as Zlink as I understand it is kind of a hack to make AA work. On a truly integrated solution, I'm sure you are right.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Works with the Headunit Reloaded app, that I use on my older PX5. I don't know if you can use that on your new HU? Zlink and Easy Connection never worked well for me.
Cutprods said:
Works with the Headunit Reloaded app, that I use on my older PX5. I don't know if you can use that on your new HU? Zlink and Easy Connection never worked well for me.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I might try it to see if it will solve my wireless issue. This is my first real Android head unit other than the pass through box I used before that isn't really a head unit. Is there a best way to install? Just from the Play store?
Heya, sorry I completely forgot to post about my Qualcomm 665 8/128GB Unit that I bought after putting it in.
Here's my thoughts:
Short TL;DR seems to be: Don't buy Nuuno or the other brands, according to BMW Forums get a Navifly Unit. (They seem to cost as much as the Nunoo or others but give far better configurability thanks to mods and seems to be more known):
The Configurations to look for seem to be Qualcomm 450/625 with 2GB/32GB or 4GB/64GB
For REAL Android 11 and from what I read even Android 12 it would be: 4/64, 6/128 or 8/256 (Look at the 6/128GB, all the other Units normally have 8/128GB)
Here's for more Information on how to get one and being sure that yours is legit and where I got this from (I hope XDA allows the Links, if not Google for "BMW KSW Android 10" and use f30.bimmerpost):
10.25" Android 10 HU discussion
10.25" Android 10 HU discussion
f30.bimmerpost.com
10.25" Android 9/10 HU theming and discussion
10.25" Android 9/10 HU theming and discussion
f30.bimmerpost.com
Android 11 HU discussion
Android 11 HU discussion
f30.bimmerpost.com
But since we're here about the Nuuno let me add some stuff about mine:
The Package with the radio arrived pretty swiftly and pretty much everything you need to tear apart my A6 4F was included.
Sadly the new Plastic Insert for the Radio/Dash is the wrong color (My older 4F uses a dark gray and the new one is silver like for the newer 4F) but that's not much of a issue, still looks good. BUT the fit is not that well done, it has quite a few bigger gaps all around compared to the original plastic. You tend to forget about it though the longer you have it in your car up to the point you won't even notice it yourself anymore or even care.
Same problems with GPS here, the Signal is pretty bad to okayish at best so also need to try to get the original GPS antenna connected but it's not a huge breaking deal since using Android Auto it still works well and I dont care about the built in one.
Android Auto Wireless is also iffy here, sometimes it tries to connect, the fails and never tries again until I disconnect and reconnect my Phones Bluetooth connection to the headunit, then it works first try. What also seems to help is immediately after the Unit is booted up opening the zlink app, Then it also seems to work 90% of the time for me. Wired Android Auto works 100% of the time.
Using the Steering Wheel Controls is perfectly fine, I can even skip songs ahead or go back with the left one that normally selects the Input. That is something my older Android Auto retrofit module couldn't do.
NEVER EVER LOG INTO YOUR MAIN GOOGLE ACCOUNT ON THESE "FAKE" OR OLDER UNITS. That is sadly a well-known practice in most of the Android Car Radio Forums since many seem to have that annoying bug that deletes your Contacts. The Navifly/KSW Android Radios seem to not have this/or it got fixed.
Better be safe and always use a throwaway account on these things.
The Muting Sound when going to one of the original Car Menus is pretty bad, or well on mine it doesn't actually mute, it stops playback. If I start the music again from my phone I can listen to my Music and go through the original Car Menus. It sadly aslo cannot be deactivated this "Feature". Only on the Navifly/KSW Units mentioned in the BMW Forums you seem to be able to do it which is probably why I will get me one of those. Hopefully I won't forget to write a bit about that one too.
Lastly the AC: On my MMI 2G 4F the Display shows the correct Temperature that I set on my AC in the Display..
I hope this also helped a bit since these Units don't seem to be well known about only or atleast reported biut if you look on Aliexpress they're pretty much the first 10 you get shown when looking for Audi
Thanks for the info @Darthsternie. Do either of those brands make a unit that works with Audis? I briefly looked and couldn't find anything. I hate to end up buying a third unit for my car, so I guess I'll keep this one for the time being. I just really want to get the wireless piece figured out.
I just went out and put my stuff back together to confirm the GPS splitter cable did not interfere with stock nav, and it doesn't. So whatever the car might use GPS for should still work. While doing that, I confirmed what Darthsternie said about switching to the stock interface, it does pause playback. Not just mute. I assumed that was correct, but wanted to confirm on my unit. Backup camera has an option to disable this, but if you go into anything else from the Audi MMI, it pauses.
Also, thanks for the info on the temp. I'm on the 3g MMI "High" on my 2016 S4 (B8.5). "High" I believe means has stock NAV. Might ask the company about my issue. To be honest, since I have the dual temps shown on the temp dials, it's not really something I care much about.
I did log out of my google account and used an abandoned account I used years ago for a specific purpose that I no longer need. Should have known better. My concern was for apps I may have purchased like Torque. Don't really want to buy again. Wonder if I can put my other account in my family? Will look up how many people can be in a family. I think I'm at 2 right now.
As to the wireless, once I get in a bad state where it's constantly looping the connection attempt, I've been unable to solve it without a reboot. I can kill Zlink. I can cycle bluetooth on the phone. I can manually navigate to Zlink, but that's not the problem because I can even auto-launch Zlink at start and it still does it.
Will have to investigate a replacement for Zlink if that's possible on these. I just haven't really dug into Android head units enough to know anything at this point. Need a good wiki or something
Navifly is not a guarantee either, they also sell snapdragons as well as MTK units, you want the legit snapdragon with the KSW software if you want to have a compatible unit with what most of the modders are using. I got mine a few years ago from Navifly and it is a P60 cpu MTK unit and it works well and gets the job done, but I would much rather have a KSW based unit.
I also have a B8.5 Audi.
You should download Device Info HW from the play store and it will give you a breakdown on the unit and let you know if they are faking the android version, etc.
Device Info HW - Apps on Google Play
Hardware and software information app for Android devices.
play.google.com
twist said:
Navifly is not a guarantee either, they also sell snapdragons as well as MTK units, you want the legit snapdragon with the KSW software if you want to have a compatible unit with what most of the modders are using. I got mine a few years ago from Navifly and it is a P60 cpu MTK unit and it works well and gets the job done, but I would much rather have a KSW based unit.
I also have a B8.5 Audi.
You should download Device Info HW from the play store and it will give you a breakdown on the unit and let you know if they are faking the android version, etc.
Device Info HW - Apps on Google Play
Hardware and software information app for Android devices.
play.google.com
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Suspiciously, Device Info HW will install, but fails to run on launch. Will dig a bit more.
I finally heard back from these guys and got a screenshot. Here is the link for the unit.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803161214499.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.3a3738dazQvvo3&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
And here is the screenshot he sent. This is the newer KSW software and it should be a legit snapdragon 662.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Talking to these guys through their aliexpress translator is almost futile. I ended up sending him a screenshot with the APP Ver highlighted on a different older KSW unit and then he sent this back.
I have just bought this one for my Audi A6 C6 from 2005.
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005005240382533.html
I hope it's a real 662 Unit but according to the seller and a screenshot from them it is.
I will try to report back again when it arrives and compare it to the Nuuno Unit that I have now
Hi,
Ive just ordered 2 weeks ago a Nunoo 12.3 128+8GB device with Snapdragon 665 for my A5 B8 Pre-Facelift. Ive asked the seller to confirm if its really 665 and he did. I can also confirm, that my device have a 665 if i can trust CPU-Z this device info software shows also Android 12S. I dont know, if its better to have this MTK8581 CPU like on the COIKA devices or the Snapdragon 665. I just can say i was focused on the 665 because this is that, was RSNAV uses.
I had before an RSNAV S1, so the first generation in 10.25". This unit was also for sure not bug free and i switched it because it was now fully bricked. I got random bootloops and blackscreens, even after factory reset. My brightness control was buggy, it was inverted and dark at day and bright at night. Support from RSNAV haven't helped me with that. Finally, I also had no GPS reception any more. I had used the roof antenna from the A5 for the S1, without the splitter. However, as the roof antenna is a known problem and tends to break down overnight, I assumed that this problem had now also affected me. But that's not true, because the roof antenna now showed 15 satellites when connected to the MMI again After research, I found out that this was also a known problem with the RSNAV S1, that the GPS transistor burns out and that this is not repairable.
I don't have any further experience with the new Nunoo device yet, I need a few more days for that. I can report back then. What I noticed is that the frame that was sent to me has a much worse fit than the one I had with the RSNAV S1. Let's see if the support team can do something about that.
By the way, some people have already reported that the RSNAV firmware runs just as well on the Nunoo devices. I have not yet tried this out myself. However, this could fix some bugs and possibly bring a few more options.
RSNAV was a major rip off IMO, they are just selling the same Chinese units at a markup and the markup is not worth what little support you might get, that is just my opinion and I know many will disagree.
The snapdragon is going to be way better then the MTK I had an MTK previously and it worked fine but I was unable to change launchers or do anything outside of what they supply, the MTK units are super locked down and proprietary, the snapdragons have all kinds of fun mods and capabilities so you can really dial in your head unit how you want it to be.
I don't personally know anything about nunoo but these units are almost all made by Mekede / Navifly and being resold by multiple different stores just rebranding. I am sure there are some other companies making fake units, but a lot of the chinese stuff all comes from the same factory and then a ton of other companies rebrand them and resell them.
Even my previous Mekede MTK unit was fake android 10, it was really android 9, the fraud and scams on aliexpress is so unacceptable, which is why I buy very little there, these headunits were the only 2 purchases I have made on there in the last 2+ years.