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Both mine and the wife's Exec's now have loose styluses, is there any way to fix this?
Sellotape
Deaks100 said:
Both mine and the wife's Exec's now have loose styluses, is there any way to fix this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My Wizard's always done this. I've had it apart and couldn't fix it, so have settled for using a couple of turns of sellotape around the tip end of the stylus. Do it neatly and you can't see it, and it works nicely.
Ric
i put two small pieces of insulating tape in the hole where the stylus goes... it seems to hold well. i have attached a image. good luck
Deaks100 said:
Both mine and the wife's Exec's now have loose styluses, is there any way to fix this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, you can try one of these. Bee usiing mine for ages now and it's great. http://www.boxwave.com/products/styraballpointpen/styra-ballpoint-pen-stylus-i-mate-jasjar_723.htm
These are available from UK (mobilefun I think)
Regards
Mav
mavrik64 said:
Hi, you can try one of these. Bee usiing mine for ages now and it's great. http://www.boxwave.com/products/styraballpointpen/styra-ballpoint-pen-stylus-i-mate-jasjar_723.htm
These are available from UK (mobilefun I think)
Regards
Mav
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi,
It looks the same size - does it really stay in place more than the original, if so I'll get one!!
Thanks Matt
Tape: £1.39
Time out from work to craft the end of the tape to suit the exec: £4.50
The look on my other half's face when I prove the stylus will stay put: Priceless.
For most things you can use your Mastercard, for everything else, there's insulating tape.
P.S. I used black so it doesn't look so conspicious... is it vain or just the geek in me?
Best wishes,
i just wrapped a little tape around the stylus, just where the plastic meets the metal, works great, had it in situ around 4/5 months now
matt1971 said:
Hi,
It looks the same size - does it really stay in place more than the original, if so I'll get one!!
Thanks Matt
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not dropped out of my Exec yet. Funny thing is, I didn't think it would last long so I also bought a pack of 3 stock Stylus. Never used them. Hope I never will.
The new one has been in since Dec 06, used daily, and still going strong.
Regards
Mav
my stylus wud come out as if cheese but then i lifted the black part little up and now it stays in it place
Best thing is to actually get one of those 3-in one styli. They are actually a little thicker, which means they stay in a lot better. Mobile Fun sell them. Just google them and fine oneone.
Hi,
I'm new to this forum so i'd like to say hello to everybody first
I have a g1 with the screen cracked. When I say the screen is cracked I mean that upper glass area; The lcd does not seem to be cracked in any way so there is no bleeding at all. Touch still works very well even in the cracked area.
I seem to have come across only 1 ebay auction that was selling a digitizer and everywere is absurdly expensive to buy. Any ideas where i can find one ? At 189$ i'm half way to buying a new phone tbh.
Also I saw in this forum that some people had the same problem and people told them that they would need to replace both lcd AND digitizer, however i clearly saw in the htc dream service manual that they are two separate parts with separate part numbers. Is there some particular reason for this ?
Just to clarify, can any tell me the order in which components are placed in the htc g1 ? Im assuming they are as follows:
Touch Screen Digitizer
LCD Screen
cover and hinge
in that order..Am I right in my assumption ?
Thanks,
Mewt
Bump. I would like to know as well.
Check it out:
This listing just got put up on eBay today. This guy has 50 digitizers for sale:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=230336383436
If you are sure the LCD is intact, you should just buy the Digitizer. The LCD can easily be seen by opening up the phone.
http://cgi.ebay.com/HTC-T-MOBILE-GO...5|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318|301:1|293:1|294:50
I can confirm you can replace the digitizer WITHOUT replacing the lcd.
I just did it. A car ran over my G1 a while ago and I've been lurking on ebay ever since waiting for digitizers to be listed. With a new digitizer, a Torx screwdriver and about an hour I have just replaced the broken one and the new one works perfectly.
Of course that also means I now have a spare G1 since I bought another one in case I couldn't get a replacement.
I will be doing the same shortly.
Actually this is the best price I have found on a digitizer
http://www.perfectesell.com/gog1glscdico.html
Any tips on replacing the part? Does the phone have to come completely apart?
I can't buy from that buyer as he doesn't ship to Malta but thanks, now I know what I need to look for and will be doing so. Hope I can get my g1 working well again...I just hate trying to read messages with cracks in them
Thanks all for your replies
Its quite fiddly but as long as you have the manual you should be okay.
There's a few things tho. Page 23 doesn't really show you how to disconnect the camera very well. On the underside of the main board there is a connector like the one for the screen. It is released by flipping the paddle lever think 90 degrees down. Otherwise the camera connector gets pulled out when you remove the mainboard.
It should go without saying you don't need to disassemble the bottom "chin" part when you remove it. Oh and page 24 has an error, those aren't the 2 screws you need to remove, its 2 long ones, one is in the top right of that picture on page 24 the other is to the right of the one circled.
Mr_dev said:
Its quite fiddly but as long as you have the manual you should be okay.
There's a few things tho. Page 23 doesn't really show you how to disconnect the camera very well. On the underside of the main board there is a connector like the one for the screen. It is released by flipping the paddle lever think 90 degrees down. Otherwise the camera connector gets pulled out when you remove the mainboard.
It should go without saying you don't need to disassemble the bottom "chin" part when you remove it. Oh and page 24 has an error, those aren't the 2 screws you need to remove, its 2 long ones, one is in the top right of that picture on page 24 the other is to the right of the one circled.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hey would you say the average person would be able to change the digitizer or do you have to be a handy man.. taking anybodys replys ONLY if you''ve done it
Well I guess I am the average person but then I've taken many a pc and laptop apart and put it back together again so maybe not...
There's nothing that requires great skill in it. As long as you're gentle, patient and careful (taking apart a G1 is like making love to a beautiful woman...). Keep track of what screws came from where and don't try and force anything.
Remember you need some torx head screwdrivers. but you can get these on ebay for very little.
I have to admit I feel a bit smug when I see forum posts from people who advise you sent it back to T-Mo and pay a $100+ excess for them to do it. As if!
Ah, my screen is just gently scratched, but it's annoying sometimes. I might look at into this if it gets any worse.
Just looking at the back of the screen when the G1 is open, it looks like I'd have to take the whole phone apart...are there guides I can look at?
Here is some sites that helped me out.
This is an easy to ready explanation to what you are looking at.
http://www.phonewreck.com/wiki/index.php?title=T-Mobile_G1
This is where I found the service manual a while back
http://www.intomobile.com/2008/12/18/dissect-your-t-mobile-g1-with-the-htc-dream-service-manual.html
This was where you can find the digitizer. (I dunno which one it is... but I think its the clearpad) only thing I could not find a match on part numbers anywhere
http://www.synaptics.com/solutions/products
And this is the address and Houston local number for HTC America. (i didnt check the number so i'm 72.34763% sure its right(just do a little social engineering to get to where you need to be.) )
http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&i...-95.551229&spn=0.009187,0.015986&z=16&iwloc=A
same boat here. cracked digitizer. seems like the g1 is the only phone, for which you can't buy one.
Mr_dev said:
Well I guess I am the average person but then I've taken many a pc and laptop apart and put it back together again so maybe not...
There's nothing that requires great skill in it. As long as you're gentle, patient and careful (taking apart a G1 is like making love to a beautiful woman...). Keep track of what screws came from where and don't try and force anything.
Remember you need some torx head screwdrivers. but you can get these on ebay for very little.
I have to admit I feel a bit smug when I see forum posts from people who advise you sent it back to T-Mo and pay a $100+ excess for them to do it. As if!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hey i have a question i replace my digitizer but now the bottom part of the touch screen... closest to the menu button doesnt work. what do you think can be wrong
Pull it apart again using the service guide section 2.2.3 and make sure all connections have complete contact. If something is not sitting right the circuit may not be ringing out correctly. Once you have gone through all the steps 2.3.2(lcm assembly) and everything looks connected properly, assemble, reboot and test. If it is not fixed you may have a bad digitizer I'm hoping for the fact that most of your screen is working its just a connection problem.
Mr_dev said:
Its quite fiddly but as long as you have the manual you should be okay.
There's a few things tho. Page 23 doesn't really show you how to disconnect the camera very well. On the underside of the main board there is a connector like the one for the screen. It is released by flipping the paddle lever think 90 degrees down. Otherwise the camera connector gets pulled out when you remove the mainboard.
It should go without saying you don't need to disassemble the bottom "chin" part when you remove it. Oh and page 24 has an error, those aren't the 2 screws you need to remove, its 2 long ones, one is in the top right of that picture on page 24 the other is to the right of the one circled.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When you reassembled what did you do about the tape and gaskets? Were you able to buy new or did you use something else? Thanks!
Matt
s02mike said:
Here is some sites that helped me out.
This is an easy to ready explanation to what you are looking at.
http://www.phonewreck.com/wiki/index.php?title=T-Mobile_G1
This is where I found the service manual a while back
http://www.intomobile.com/2008/12/18/dissect-your-t-mobile-g1-with-the-htc-dream-service-manual.html
This was where you can find the digitizer. (I dunno which one it is... but I think its the clearpad) only thing I could not find a match on part numbers anywhere
http://www.synaptics.com/solutions/products
And this is the address and Houston local number for HTC America. (i didnt check the number so i'm 72.34763% sure its right(just do a little social engineering to get to where you need to be.) )
http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&i...-95.551229&spn=0.009187,0.015986&z=16&iwloc=A
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i'm willing to try replacing it myself as well and i was wondering how much your purchased your new digitizer for. would the one suggested earlier at this link: http://www.perfectesell.com/gog1glscdico.html be good? it seems a lot cheaper than other ones and i dont want to buy a faulty and cheap one that may not work as well or break. any other tips would be GREATLY appreciated. TIA!
Here's the correct page on the Perfectesell site:
http://www.perfectesell.com/htcgog1glscd.html
Same price ($65) as the ebay auction that ended.
I dunno what that $12.95 thing was... price doesn't seem right for glass, touch sensing wizardry
mattcairns said:
When you reassembled what did you do about the tape and gaskets? Were you able to buy new or did you use something else? Thanks!
Matt
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Some of the gaskets i didnt fully remove so i just place em down... and some of the tape i didnt reuse.
bloob9 said:
i'm willing to try replacing it myself as well and i was wondering how much your purchased your new digitizer for. would the one suggested earlier at this link: http://www.perfectesell.com/gog1glscdico.html be good? it seems a lot cheaper than other ones and i dont want to buy a faulty and cheap one that may not work as well or break. any other tips would be GREATLY appreciated. TIA!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought my digitizer on ebay for about 25 dollars i think. then i bought the screwdrive kit for 7 dollars also
s02mike said:
Pull it apart again using the service guide section 2.2.3 and make sure all connections have complete contact. If something is not sitting right the circuit may not be ringing out correctly. Once you have gone through all the steps 2.3.2(lcm assembly) and everything looks connected properly, assemble, reboot and test. If it is not fixed you may have a bad digitizer I'm hoping for the fact that most of your screen is working its just a connection problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thanx i took it apart again and that fixed it... i have 2 more problems 1 major 1 not. i dont know but i normally got 3g service in my house and now i dont what could b the problem.
second is that the screen doesnt swivel smoothy as before
Hi guys!
I'm from Germany so I'm not even sure if the expressions I use are right, but I think you'll get my point.
I'm looking for the screws of the SGS directly under the battery cover. I think those type of screws ist named "torx" but I need a size as well, right? Does anybody know, where to get some of them?
Thanks for any help!
Anyone?
I think they are called T6, but still not sure... =/
-Juff- said:
Hi guys!
I'm from Germany so I'm not even sure if the expressions I use are right, but I think you'll get my point.
I'm looking for the screws of the SGS directly under the battery cover. I think those type of screws ist named "torx" but I need a size as well, right? Does anybody know, where to get some of them?
Thanks for any help!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't know about your phone, but under my cover are simple phillips head screws (Kreuzschrauben) ... Even if they are torx you can get them at any hardware store (Obi, Praktiker etc) I am pretty sure the folks there can help you (or try it at a Conrad...)!
Thanks for the info guys, i lost my screws when I took them all out to inspect some potential water damage. Going to have a hunt for them this weekend.
However I'm not sure how deep / long they are, anyone got an idea?
This is a picture of a circuit board from an LG WCP-700 Qi charger. It makes a very annoying beep, but I can't figure out what is making it. My best guess so far is the part labeled 331. Any help would be appreciated.
BadBoyNDSU said:
This is a picture of a circuit board from an LG WCP-700 Qi charger. It makes a very annoying beep, but I can't figure out what is making it. My best guess so far is the part labeled 331. Any help would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is the beep that loud? If you find out, be sure to post it here. Mine is on it's way.
That looks like it. I'll certainly take mine out when it arrives in a few days, if you are too afraid to yank it wait and I'll let you know how it turns out.
I'd rather have a dead charger than a loud annoying one
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
Might want to check this out. Someone stated that they took it out and it's dead.
I have the same question, I got the case open expecting this to be easy but I'm not 100% sure what to pull off the PCB. I think you are right that it has to be the part labeled 331. There is just not anything else that it could be.
That said I'm not willing to pull it without some confirmation. Maybe somebody here with more EE experience can tell us for sure.
I don't get my nexus 4 until tomorrow, maybe once I have it I can get the charger to beep and listen for where the sound is coming from.
Apologies for being slightly OT (although I'll be looking to do this when I get mine).
I'm struggling to find a supported voltage range in any specifications for this pad - I'm UK based and need either an adaptor or convertor depending on the range.
Could someone who has one let me know what the specs are please?
How did you get it open??? I've been trying for a week now and have all but ruined the bottom ha! A "How To" would be appreciated!
Jester23 said:
How did you get it open??? I've been trying for a week now and have all but ruined the bottom ha! A "How To" would be appreciated!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The 4 little rubber feet on the bottom pull out and there are 4 small Phillips screws underneath.
I had to use a small screw driver to pry up on the feet, it felt like they might rip but they all came out undamaged. Once those screws are out the top and bottom are still held together by a couple of snap-tabs in the middle of the long sides. I was able to get them apart with a little prying and again nothing broke even though it felt like it might. The PCB is held on by 4 obvious Phillips screws.
Sorry I don't have any pictures and can't take any until after I get home from work later.
CodeMonkey said:
Apologies for being slightly OT (although I'll be looking to do this when I get mine).
I'm struggling to find a supported voltage range in any specifications for this pad - I'm UK based and need either an adaptor or convertor depending on the range.
Could someone who has one let me know what the specs are please?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here.
brettray said:
The 4 little rubber feet on the bottom pull out and there are 4 small Phillips screws underneath.
I had to use a small screw driver to pry up on the feet, it felt like they might rip but they all came out undamaged. Once those screws are out the top and bottom are still held together by a couple of snap-tabs in the middle of the long sides. I was able to get them apart with a little prying and again nothing broke even though it felt like it might. The PCB is held on by 4 obvious Phillips screws.
Sorry I don't have any pictures and can't take any until after I get home from work later.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK, mine is different then... I got it from Amazon and its a Verizon one and the bottom is all one solid rubery unit. I saw the 4 posts with screws when I pry it open but couldn't get to the screws.
Thanks!
Instead of pulling it or jacking up the PCB trying to disconnect, could you maybe just drown the thing in some sort of epoxy? if not muting it, may at least muffle it some
Check the ZENS Qi wireless chargers, no beep and work great!
Jean2000 said:
Check the ZENS Qi wireless chargers, no beep and work great!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I saw them and would love to but not available in Canada or the US it looks like...
Jester23 said:
I saw them and would love to but not available in Canada or the US it looks like...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
They are now...!
check the store on wpcentral website
Jean2000 said:
They are now...!
check the store on wpcentral website
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks like OOS currently.
Neo42 said:
Instead of pulling it or jacking up the PCB trying to disconnect, could you maybe just drown the thing in some sort of epoxy? if not muting it, may at least muffle it some
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've tried putting my finger over different parts of the PCB and the letting it beep, including "331", and nothing I do lessens the volume. That's why I'm baffled on what part is the actual speaker.
The part labled 331 looks like an choke/inductor to me. I wouldn't remove it...
edit: do you have a picture of the other side of the PCB?
Luxferro said:
The part labled 331 looks like an choke/inductor to me. I wouldn't remove it...
edit: do you have a picture of the other side of the PCB?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The only things on the back side of the PCB are the two LEDs at the top. I am beginning to think that the sound is coming from the coil itself, like it is performing double duty as a charging coil and as a speaker coil.
BTW, I got my phone today and can confirm (as has been said elsewhere) that this charger works perfectly for charging the nexus 4. Well... expect for the loud beeps.
Jester23 said:
OK, mine is different then... I got it from Amazon and its a Verizon one and the bottom is all one solid rubery unit. I saw the 4 posts with screws when I pry it open but couldn't get to the screws.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just for reference here are some pictures of my charger, so that you can see the screw locations. Mine is also Verizon branded and came from amazon.
brettray said:
Just for reference here are some pictures of my charger, so that you can see the screw locations. Mine is also Verizon branded and came from amazon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Awesome, turns out the plugs were there the two I had tried to pry out tore making me think they did not come out. So, now just to figure out where the beep is coming from!
https://mail-attachment.googleusercontent.com/attachment/u/0/?ui=2&ik=41cb339f46&view=att&th=13d8340b74746c5a&attid=0.1&disp=inline&safe=1&zw&saduie=AG9B_P_Q5-vWqhENU8nd5ekGtYFt&sadet=1363706767414&sads=CMeEp3tEkU1SbCsFN3rfu84Dgs4&sadssc=17
https://mail-attachment.googleuserc...363706870695&sads=p-2Xb2GQeBUaK85Lopw2gw6D9Hs
Afternoon all,
So yeah I'm loving this phone greatly, but I've noticed something horrible for a phone so well made.
If anyway else owns one can you please check if your headset has a tiny gap ( Im really do mean tiny gap) between the front metal casing and
the cream looking plastic band around the phone. So were the headjack and on switch is . . . .
I noticed it last night and if I press the back and front together the gap closes.
After speaking to P4U they said no one else has rang in with such problem and they said they would exchange it wen more arrive in stock.
I ended up going in store were I discover they ave one there but is a pre ordered handset. The guy did open it up and checked both handsets.
They new one did also have a tiny gap but not as bad?
Bit shocked as I havent really used the phone alot as Im still using my S3 till I pay my contract off.
Anyone else got this?7
Cheers
Re: HTC One Owners check it out!
I have read somewhere 2 weeks ago it is a problem for some demo set. But seems it existing on retail phone now. Also I heard iphone5 has such problem but people think it acceptable.
So maybe other users can give their view.
And you would better to have a clear photo upload others can judge.
mmx6688 said:
I have read somewhere 2 weeks ago it is a problem for some demo set. But seems it existing on retail phone now. Also I heard iphone5 has such problem but people think it acceptable.
So maybe other users can give their view.
And you would better to have a clear photo upload others can judge.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What would be best way to post a photo on here? I havent actually needed to do it before?
Re: HTC One Owners check it out!
There was another thread on this exact issue. It is very small, but then again these phones aren't exacty cheap. So should be uniform all around.
Sent from a galaxy far away!
ILS_SuperNova said:
What would be best way to post a photo on here? I havent actually needed to do it before?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Select Quick Reply and then Select Go Advanced. Over at the top, click on the attachment incon (looks like a paper clip) and browse to where ever the photo is saved
Re: HTC One Owners check it out!
I got mine today, have looked but not used the phone yet. On both the top and bottom, I can squeeze and a hairline gap will come together, but I don't think this is a problem really. It is negligible and it probably won't have any impact at all, the phone still seems premium and solid in the hand, and it is not like they advertise it as being waterproof or anything in which case this would be an issue.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
I have a slight gap on the top, nowhere else though, and its very slight, I keep a case on it at all times though, so no big issue
Ive put two links to photos I took. Hopefully the links work. One is with gap and then me pushing the edges together . . .
Re: HTC One Owners check it out!
ILS_SuperNova said:
Ive put two links to photos I took. Hopefully the links work
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Don't work for me
Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-...AAAAAAFc/34GVNAI3mKc/s661/20130319_152241.jpg
Hopefully these work. Gap
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-...AAAAAAFg/LjpkmfaPpBs/s496/20130319_152305.jpg
me pressing gap together
ILS_SuperNova said:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-...AAAAAAFc/34GVNAI3mKc/s661/20130319_152241.jpg
Hopefully these work. Gap
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-...AAAAAAFg/LjpkmfaPpBs/s496/20130319_152305.jpg
me pressing gap together
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If that was my phone I would send it back but that's just me.... hope mine is ok when I get home later on.
This gap may be engineered to provide for thermal expansion differences between glass and aluminum
Definitely looks like a defect to me. Lint, dust, water etc could all get in there very easily and cause problems down the line. I'd get it replaced.
ILS_SuperNova said:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-...AAAAAAFc/34GVNAI3mKc/s661/20130319_152241.jpg
Hopefully these work. Gap
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-...AAAAAAFg/LjpkmfaPpBs/s496/20130319_152305.jpg
me pressing gap together
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i would say its fine i have something familiar on my One X between the metal rim holding the screen and the unibody
believe me you have not seen defects this is nothing compared to last year
i would keep it, can i?
llothar said:
This gap may be engineered to provide for thermal expansion differences between glass and aluminum
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My mates htc one had zero gap all the way around.
Yeah I maybe abit paranoid on this matter. After seeing the other newly opened htc one and seeing that also had a little gap then I though maybe
its just the way its made. I will see hopefully thursday if more come into stock.
Re: HTC One Owners check it out!
If I'm looking at the same thing is u on top of the phone theres a very very small gap between the metal casing and plastic filler.
Can't see I'm bothered about a gap of 0.25mm though. I don't think I'd ever want a replacement.
Sent from my HTC One using xda premium
This photo is posted by others sometime ago.
But this kind of gap also on other phones, like S4.
llothar said:
This gap may be engineered to provide for thermal expansion differences between glass and aluminum
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can definitely confirm such behavior in my One X, it expands a little from heat
but by design? i don't know, HTC promised zero gap didn't they?
Thread title is misleading: please change it.